ARE radiators

G'day all. Just wondering if anyone has installed a radiator made by ARE in Qld . I still have the factory radiator in my ute ( 4.2Tdi) which is approaching 10yrs old and I would like to replace it because my ute works hard & is running hotter than I would like. I know that they can be cleaned internally but is it worth it given the age of my radiator? I have read many threads here on this topic & gleaned a lot of info - especially tips on bleeding the cooling system. I don't want to appear too lazy to work it out for myself but I am still somewhat confused about the pro & cons of aluminium vs copper. Is stray current a common problem? Other issues ? Is there any traps or pitfalls that I should be aware of in the actual process of remove / replace radiator ? Thanks , Old Wal.

ARE are very good at what they do. I have purchased an adrad item through them.

As for the aluminium thing, it seems to scare people but your ute would have a ally core from factory mate. As long as your mounting rubbers are in good condition there shouldn't be an issue. Also as with any radiator don't mix your coolants.

Thanks nissannewby. I will have to do my sums AND find the time to replace my radiator- worked out the other day that I have only had 4 weeks off in 7 yrs. No wonder the wife is getting a bit cranky ( we work together ).

winnie just had a great deal on a copper radiator to suit his GQ might be worth giving him a PM for details.

Whether it's alloy or copper/brass, make sure it's not in contact with the chassis. Use a multimeter on the resistance setting and make sure there isn't contact. For what ever reason, when I filled mine up with coolant, the resistance went to a negative figure. Strange, but I know when it's empty there is no contact.

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Originally Posted by Parksy

Whether it's alloy or copper/brass, make sure it's not in contact with the chassis. Use a multimeter on the resistance setting and make sure there isn't contact. For what ever reason, when I filled mine up with coolant, the resistance went to a negative figure. Strange, but I know when it's empty there is no contact.

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Coolent runs threw block which is earthed and water conducts electricity.
So yes check when empty, if no connection then current will not pass threw the radiator..

would like to think when the time comes to re new my radiator I would up grade to a larger capacity one.
Like my suspension why replace with std when you can pay the same money and get something that is more efficient,
Especially if towing

Thanks to all for their replies & advice. WHY would I look ANYWHERE but here for advice?