TB45E Clutch Problem

I have just fitted a Turbo to TB45E and I am having problems with the clutch after moving the vacuum canister to drivers side of the motor and shortening the vacuum lines.(away from turbo heat)
Can anyone tell me if there is one way valve in the vacuum line between the canister and the manifold.
I may have bypassed this when shortening the vacuum lines with the relocation.
Any advice would be appreciated.
BJNSW

hoses on canister the wrong way round

I would go with that. There is a one way valve and as 256 said you probably put the hose on the wrong way round.

Just a word of warning with the turbo and general exhaust heat. I've just had a nasty experience with my clutch.

Driving up a mountain track to the highest pub in Africa at 10000 feet (Sani Pass for those of you that know Africa) I started to lose the clutch at around 6500ft and eventually lost it completely around 7000ft. The worst nightmare on a single mountain track with no where to turn around. Eventually found a small place to do a 3 point turn with in gear starts and managed to point the van down the mountain again and drive down without clutch.

Get back to 6000ft and the clutch starts coming back and by the time I was at 5000ft clutch was normal again. Never heard of this happening and neither had anyone else. Put the problem down to an air bubble in the system that opened up at altitude and spent the weekend bleeding the clutch. Problem is I found no air, so I simply replaced the fluid with fresh stuff because the old stuff looked a bit dodgy.

Fortunately I have a laboratory at work so I took the old fluid in for moisture testing and found the water content to be 8%!!! "That's the problem" I tought but could still not reconcile what could cause vapour build-up.

Then finally the penny dropped when I had another look at the workshop manual. My trol had a modified high performance exhaust system fitted and in the process had the heat insulator removed. I ended up having the exhaust pipe almost up against the clutch slave cylinder with no heat protection; clutch fluid with 8% water; and driving up a mountain side in 2nd gear low ration on a boiling hot day (was over 30C). At 7000ft the water simply started to vapourise and no clutch.

I know this is a most unusual occurance but hopefully the incident provides a good learning for others.

Thanks Guys,
I will check the hose connection to the vacuum canister.
Conrad I think your explanation about heat may be correct as the
clutch failed on the dyno under extreme heat when tuning the new Turbo.
The new Turbo dump pipe may be too close to the Clutch slave cylinder
and is getting overheated.
Regards
BJNSW

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Conradk

Just a word of warning with the turbo and general exhaust heat. I've just had a nasty experience with my clutch.

Driving up a mountain track to the highest pub in Africa at 10000 feet (Sani Pass for those of you that know Africa) I started to lose the clutch at around 6500ft and eventually lost it completely around 7000ft. The worst nightmare on a single mountain track with no where to turn around. Eventually found a small place to do a 3 point turn with in gear starts and managed to point the van down the mountain again and drive down without clutch.

Get back to 6000ft and the clutch starts coming back and by the time I was at 5000ft clutch was normal again. Never heard of this happening and neither had anyone else. Put the problem down to an air bubble in the system that opened up at altitude and spent the weekend bleeding the clutch. Problem is I found no air, so I simply replaced the fluid with fresh stuff because the old stuff looked a bit dodgy.

Fortunately I have a laboratory at work so I took the old fluid in for moisture testing and found the water content to be 8%!!! "That's the problem" I tought but could still not reconcile what could cause vapour build-up.

Then finally the penny dropped when I had another look at the workshop manual. My trol had a modified high performance exhaust system fitted and in the process had the heat insulator removed. I ended up having the exhaust pipe almost up against the clutch slave cylinder with no heat protection; clutch fluid with 8% water; and driving up a mountain side in 2nd gear low ration on a boiling hot day (was over 30C). At 7000ft the water simply started to vapourise and no clutch.

I know this is a most unusual occurance but hopefully the incident provides a good learning for others.

---

The difference mate is your car is left hand drive and ours are right!!

With your brake fluid, its recommended that every 2 years you replace all brake and clutch fluids because brake fluid is hydroscopic and absorbs moisture from the air

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BJNSW

Thanks Guys,
I will check the hose connection to the vacuum canister.
Conrad I think your explanation about heat may be correct as the
clutch failed on the dyno under extreme heat when tuning the new Turbo.
The new Turbo dump pipe may be too close to the Clutch slave cylinder
and is getting overheated.
Regards
BJNSW

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If you pull the boot back on the slave you will see brake fluid if its leaking

Agreed, fluid should be changed regularly. But nice little wake-up call! For what its worth, we are also right hand drive as is most of southern Africa.