Dawes fitment check please...

I have just finished fitting the NADS. I have gone over the instructions by Chaz a gazzilion times I reckon but I want to be sure first. Knowing me I reckon I've missed something.
See pic...
http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/6...m0037large.jpg

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I have also fitted a needle valve. No pic but one vac line comes from the resonator to the valve, then from the valve to the boost side of the dawes.
I have two fittings welded in the steel pipe from the IC, one is for the boost guage pressure sensor and the other is for the dawes, which you can see in the pic.

Now, I did quickly start the car to, just to see. My boost gauge readings went through the roof at idle so I don't know whats happening here. I screwed the dawes right in, and unscrewed it probably half of the screw length and the actuator arm still didn't move. So I just shut it down and have not done anything from there.

Note, in the pic you can see the boost line to the dawes not on the barb correctly, I had taken it off prior to the pic...Just in case anyone asks.
Also the needle valve. What setting should this be on to start with?

Cheers.

Which engine is this? Assuming it is the 3L by the intercooler but what year? Don't recognise the black tube your T piece is headed to near the intercooler.

Hello mudski , get some wd40 or similar , remove dawes and dismantle , clean with wd40 and blow dry with air and re try . it may be not seated right inside .

Quote:

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Originally Posted by scotty83

Which engine is this? Assuming it is the 3L by the intercooler but what year? Don't recognise the black tube your T piece is headed to near the intercooler.

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Yeah scotty the engine is a 3L, 2001 model. the black tube off the t piece goes tot he needle valve, the black tube that curls under that t piece is from the resonator to the needle valve.

Boots, I'll give that a shot.

But going by the pic. Does it look its done right?

Sorry for late reply mudski - are you winning the battle . for me there was trial and error with getting it set right aswell . but your plumbing does look odd , as scotty said that black cannister near intercooler is confusing me . playing some think music now and popping bonnet to recheck mine .

mine does not have that black cannister near the intercooler mudski ,that seems to be the only visual differance to my setup to yours. needle valve leave open fully and once you get the bugs ironed out thats your last tweek point .

That black canister is actually a vacuum canister. They stopped using them from about 2003 I believe. The black line going into the centre of the canister is from the vacuum pump, then it goes out (the red line). Not even sure what this does or it's purpose really.
I sort out my gauge maxing out. Silly me had one of the wires in the wrong sensor plug. But now it reads zero at idle. But I suppose it will until I actually drive it.
As for the needle valve, I will fully open this up tomorrow, then get the thing out of the garage for the first time since I bought it.

O.k I took her for a spin around the back streets, mind you there was a few speed hump to go over, so I only go to rev it up to about 3000rpm and the boost did not exceed 10psi.
I 'm reading Chaz's tut on tuning the dawes but he states "Dawes Valve should be set to around 10psi at 2000rpm and the Needle Valve adjusted to give no more than 6psi at 1500rpm". So to do this I get the dawes set first at this then I adjust the needle after that? Just want to be sure...
Also, with the dawes, turning the screw inwards( compressing the ball and spring ) will create more boost or less? I'm taking more as it needs more pressure to open up the dawes.
Like before I just want to be sure...

if your following chaz,s form then you,l be on the mark
once you set it to chaz,s its just a matter of fine tuning to what you need
a tweak here and one there

Sweet. Well I took it for a good spin and the boost max's out at 12psi. I have opened the needle valve right up so i haven't touched this yet. I'll be taking my time with it.
Thanks to all who helped.