Printable View
Hey Fellas,
I am about to tackle the the head on my 93 GQ TD42 Patrol. The head or head gasket is definately shagged, water is in the oil etc. Im just writing to find out if there is anything i need to know such as are the head bolts stretch bolts or normal etc or if anyone would have any other tips and tricks that would be great..thanks fellas
Travis
If its the petrol engine (tb42 in heading td in description ?) then i did mine a few years ago. Actually fairly straight forward and as i recall the bolts are standard and I re torqued them after running a while.(used new bolts though)
The problem with mine turned out to be a kind of baffle that sits under the carb' that had somehow come loose and worked it's way thru' the engine - not good - so i left it out on repairing the damage and i didn't notice any difference in performance .So if you have the same - think about removing it !
Sold it later and got a TD 42 - head on this is Ok so can't really help-but imagine it would be comparable in difficulty .
My approach - if it helps at all - was to keep organised by using a packet of envelopes in a tray and keeping various components together and making notes and diagrams on the envelope itself .
I'm only a jack of all trades and it started first pop after putting it back together.
Cheers and hope you get more detail from others -PS if you are in sydney there's are a really helpful cylinder head shop in brookvale - opposite maccas and next to battery world - can' t remeber their name !
They're not really anything out of the ordinary, they're a pushrod engine and very straight forward to work on, same simple rule as alway's have a nice clean work area clean everything more than necessary before assembly and allow yourself enough vehicle downtime to do the job without rushing it.
Heya mate nice to see you here at the forums, please take the time to make an intro postQuote:
Originally Posted by gutlux03
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...-Introductions
I am sure you will the peoples here a wealth of info once you do :)
It's advisable to change head bolts as they do stretch over time, so for the extra few bucks, it's a worthwhile investment.
Make sure you use a steel rule or a flat level bench and set your head on it to make sure it's 100% straight and not warped if you're not having it machined or reconditioned. Any warping makes it a waste of time replacing the gasket as it will happen again.
They're a big lump of a motor so make sure you use monotorque (ACL) or at the least EZY gaskets, they've both been around a long time and are good quality. I've seen a lot of cheap gaskets fail or have defects. I had to buy 3 sets of inlet manifold gaskets for my 351 2V before I got ones that would line up with the factory ones.
Apart from that, quality tools, patience and a clean work environment makes it easier. Read up on a manual first if you're not sure, or ask the Q's here, so you don't stuff something up.