Bryan's MQ/MK Project

G'day all,
You are all in for a treat, normally when you check out someone's project page, they're prob a mechanic, panel beater, welder, engineer or have a shite load of money..in other words, know what they're doing.
I am NOT one of them, I'm an ex soldier so about the only thing I did/do well is break things.
Those that may of seen my posts in intros would know I do NOT like things easy, I married a Sth African and am now living in NZ so she can be closer to my in laws (haven't made it easier by having a name that others can relate monty python to). To top it off, have now filled my double garage with a MQ and a MK which means her car is out in the cold (still trying to work out what she means by that).
My end plan is to have a MK wagon body on a MQ chassis that will have a canvas top that can be removed.
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00220171.jpg
These are the two in question, red body to be biffed, silver over to the red chassis.
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...20172-Copy.jpg
stripping down the body..i think
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00220173.jpg
petrol inline 6 that I'm keeping
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00220176.jpg
the MQ (red one) is in quite good nick (apart from the panels I've chucked) that even has the orginal rims (and i think tyres)
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00209428.jpg
Obviously the 1st thing I was did was cut the roof off with a grinder
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00209427.jpg
then i found the rust
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00209432.jpg
also in the drivers floor.

My glorious plan is to have a gucci MQ that will have canvas top that can be removed. The I've set aside about a year to get it to where I want it to be. Alot of it is funds so tis a matter of taking what I need off the donor and selling what's left for the funds.
Any mechanics/engineers/welders that happen to have nothing else to do would welcome ANY and ALL help.. first thing is I've been 'told" that it's not too hard to swap the bodies over..just a matter of undoing some body mounts, steering and loom..sounds easy if I say it fast.
Anyone got any links/pics on where these bolts are. Also the MK body I'm wanting comes from a 24v engine going onto a 12v MQ. So would that mean all I'd have to do is change the bulbs?

OK, first why are you changing chasis? Is the silver a deisel? I know you guys have Deisel Tax but does it make far
more dearer than petrol? The reason I ask is, I believe the deisels are more economical than those petrols.

Secondly you will buy either 12V sealed beam 7"x5" headlights or Halogen 7"x5" headlights and fit 12v bulbs for the MK. Do you know if the ones in the MK are sealed beam or halogen?

All bulbs in all exterior lights, dash instrument lamps, interior lights will needto be replaced with the 12v ones inthe MQ.

Don't forget the wiper motor/s, radio, clock, fuel pick/sender unit, horn, and heater motor.



Tim

Hi Tim,
Changing chassis for two reasons, the silver body actually has less rust (is only the one rust hole in the floor and what you see in the chassis rail above the driver) in it however the chassis is a bit sus, the MQ's body putting it mildly is bog and crap however the chassis has been looked after.
As for the diesel motor, unfortunately it's actually more expensive to operate here in NZ. The low pump price is quite deceptive as you also have a "road users" tax where you buy KMs (big fines if you don't pay for them prior to running out) and also the Rego fees are astronomical as they base it on what it's maximum load it can carry. As it's a wagon it is also classed as a "commercial" vehicle.
The local council of whom I have an accountant friend (yes I know, but he does get out sometimes) did a study on petrol over diesel and unless you're doing extremely high KMs it's actually more expensive to run diesel (taking in servicing costs).
It also won't be my daily driver, it's more for hunting/bushbashing and finally also a tool to teach my son to drive without fear of him breaking anything..well on the patrol that is.

Sounds like a great job, make sure you take pics along the way

Looks like you will be bussy, these guys here are a great help too :) my ol mq has a hole in the floor like that too that Im yet to tackle but enjoy your project and I look forward to watching your build.
Cheers Michelle

I know Michelle, being following your build as well :tongue:
When I pulled back the carpet and saw that rust hole had a mental picture of me being Fred Flintstone.
Build will be a slow process as can only go as fast as the funds allow and that is dictated on how much I can get from the parts I don't need.
Unfortunately a lot of kiwi's don't know just how bullet proof the SD33T is.:1087:
My first big "adventure' is to find the body mounts and undo the bolts/nuts (or whatever they are) and then work out what else needs to be removed so I can remove the body..should be a barrel of laughs for you guys when i post the photos :-)

MWHAHAHAHAHAHA..... Have found the MQ manual (well, did 25 posts and gained access) and know what I need to do...looks really easy. Apparently all I have to do is undo a couple of bolts and Bob's ya uncle.
Please don't burst my bubble, let me at least pop it first.

Yay for the body swaps.....

Ive got both the diesel and the petrol MQ/MKs here
Unless your talking some serious government costs regarding diesels running and overheads,the diesel will be at least half as cheap to run , via its fuel consumtion
Those petrols love the juice, up near the TB42 GQ area , 20L /100Ks, where as the diesel even in turbo guise 10-12L and absolutley have it all over the petrol
Dont worry about the other issues with body swaps, which ever engine type style you go with remove the full wiring system from it cars origin and swap it over
Then plug it all up and done
The body bolts, start soaking them now with like WD40 or the likes, squirt here and there every week or so , help them when you want them out
The 2 main bolts youll have issues with are the furtherest on the body up behind the rear bumper, these can be a pain and many have cut out with the oxy
Make sure the brake lines at the booster and the clutch lines are disconnected before doin the swap , and disconnect the wiring harness just under the drivers seat
Any Qs , chuck em up

Thanks for that info Mad, we are talking serious taxes unfortunately.. Greenies rule the roost here, no leaded fuel, diesel frowned on because the smoke is black...and god help you if you happen to crush a petal.
If it wasn't for the cheap beer and the strong oz dollar...!!!
Oh and my wife...so she tells me

I'll be posting a shite load of pics,
1. so you can all have a giggle,
2, so others can learn from my booboos ,and
3. when I get I get it wrong the headshead can redirect me in the right direction.