Printable View
While changing the gearbox oil I noticed the clutch lever dust boot was baddly torn. I have just tried to replace it and the clutch lever has slipped slightly out. How do you get it back properly engaged to the release bearing? I have never pulled a clutch before and really really hope this is not necessary.
If your talking about the boot on the lower LHS that is the slave cylinder, you should be able to slot it back in mate, and hopefully not need to bleed it (cause its a total PITA)
If your talking about the ball that the clutch fork pivots on get yourself a little torch and look in there it is a fiddly job but you should be able to get it back on
I am replacing the rectangular dust boot over the clutch lever not the dust cover on the slave cylinder. I have removed the slave cylinder to get the new boot over the lever. I now realise I could have compressed the clutch and just removed the slave cylinder drive pin to slip a new dust boot over the clutch lever if anyone else ever tries! I have two manuals and both diagrams are not that clear of how the lever slips in to engage the release bearing. The lever has a retaining spring and a holder spring. I can jiggle the lever, see the pivot post and reach in and reseat the retainer spring and I can just see the ends of the holder spring but the fork ends of the lever seem not to push under the holder spring ends. A photo of the lever attched on a removed clutch would be hugely helpful if I can understand how it needs to slip together. I am a newbie to the forum so may have not posted this the best waty - happy for any guidance.
KD
Thanks, yes I am using various torches etc. Exhaust is of course in the way. No luck so far. I'll try again today after work. humpf!
Well after a struggle I have re seated the clutch fork. The problem is the thrust block that the fork presses on has two raised extensions plus a free moving spring clip. To re-engage the fork you need to have the thrust block rotated to match up with the fork plus have the spring clip also similarly rotated. They can rotate separately!! The fork itself has two raised bumps that have to sit on the thrust block extensions. The clutch diaphram keeps the whole thing under compression (my clutch is hardly worn at all so diaphram is still quite stiff). So you have to perfectly align the thrust block and spring clip and then force the fork over the thrust block extensions and under the spring clip.
All this while keeping the retaining spring that sits either side of the pin ball stud (that the fork pivots on) from falling out into the clutch bellhousing.
After many many tries I found the only way was to apply constant increasing pressure as you have to overcome the diaphram compression. I ended up using a jack mounted so it pushed directly along tha axis of the fork. All good now.
great work, and thanks for the tips on how to put it back together. Will do my best to not ever need to use them :-)
Happened to me once, the retainer spring popped out on one side while pushing the fork on. Had to pull gearbox back out to put the spring back in.