Personally, if I lived somewhere in lower QLD near some legally accessible beaches/driveable islands and had an emotional attachment to my current GU tight/best drivetrain would consider an LS1...
Personally, if I lived somewhere in lower QLD near some legally accessible beaches/driveable islands and had an emotional attachment to my current GU tight/best drivetrain would consider an LS1...
There was a bloke in Melbourne doing recos. 0400 033 377 I don't know if he's still doing it. Freight to QL might be too high, but Readies of Bendigo sometimes have good ZD's that are taken out for...
I'd be thinking it's something wrong with the clutch itself.
Maybe worn a groove on the gearbox shaft or that sort of thing.
The force from the clutch should be ample to return the pedal
Exedy are a good brand, but even good quality can fail.
To me your symptoms point to pressure plate failure. Or, the thrust bearing carrier, the part that slides on the nose cone of the gearbox,...
TB and TD42's come with a clutch booster obviously, but RB30 doesn't have a vacuum assisted clutch booster. Not sure about the RD28.
Was this happening before or after the clutch replacement?
If it was there before , have a look at the clutch fork as it may be cracked or worn on the pivot. All so check the pivot adjustment.
GQ or GU? Sounds like a vacuum issue. The GQs have a rebuildable clutch booster, a rebuild kit is available for them, the GU's don't.
Yeah, but I'm not sure vacuum leaks in the booster or the vacuum lines can produce those symptoms.
I would think the pedal would be tad harder without vacuum assist.
Ideally a malfunctioning vacuum...
That's what I was thinking.
Usually there is a spring. I wonder if somehow that's popped out of place?!
Isn't there a spring in the pedal assembly to bring the pedal back up?
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G`Day mate.
Pushing the fork back to the slave is ok as the slave is non adjustable.
Does the pedal return with the engine turned off and the boaster bled of vacuum.
As suggested by Yendor check the park/neutral switch and the gearbox harness.
That will cost you nothing,
you'll still need to replace the IC as soon as you can though
Theres a wiring harness that runs beside the gearbox. Just check and make sure there is no damage to it.
I'd be looking at the intercooler i reckon.
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Try disconnecting the park neutral switch on the drivers side of the geabox and see if that makes any difference.
Also make sure that the gearbox harness wasn't damaged during the clutch change.
One you need to get a tig welded IC asap and then see how you go
this needs to be changed no matter what so it will be one less thing to worry about.
Also check the blue hose in the pic they have a...