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sparra 1
16th March 2012, 06:35 PM
hi guys sparra here im thinking about changing my gu zd30 engine to a 4.2lt i just dont have a clue on how to go about it eg which 4.2lt to buy, turbo, noneturbo and so on and at what costs am i looking at. also ive been told that the 4.2lt doesnt run off a computer. so if you have some advice on how to do this it would be greatly appreciated. thanks guys & girls :confused:

AB
16th March 2012, 09:50 PM
Never done this myself mate but read here somewhere that the engine mount on the ZD30 is suited for that only so you'll need to do a bit of modifications on that side and will also need an engineers certificate for it too so it may end up costly for this one.

Bell housing would need to be swapped too but thats not a huge task.

Hopefully someone can offer other advice but personally I would be sprucing it up, sell and find a complete TD42.

Step back and grab a nice GQ mate....lol

Depending on how mechanical minded and time you have of course but it may just be an easier way in the long run mate.

outbackjack
18th March 2012, 04:28 PM
Seems a lot of people do this conversion, so you should get some answers soon.

Engine mounts need to be changed, wiring, throttle cable to a VN type I believe.

I was thinking about changing to a 4.2, but decided to just install new zd30. Total cost so far around is $13500, this is with brand new everything. Injector Pump, water pump, Engine, timing gear, Alt and Starter, Radiator etc etc. Every thing is brand new, not recoed. Could have been cheaper if I went recoed. I would have saved 1500 alone if I went for a recoed injector pump, but got a new one instead.

I like the 4.2, however i think the ZD30 is just as good engine, you just need to be aware of the earlier models limitations. A lot of people have got later model ZD30 with no problems. Mine has done 260k Kms. I am upgrading as I am moving to Tennant and towing a 24ft van. Thought it would be cheaper and easier to renew it in Newcastle than remote NT.

Benno7
18th March 2012, 04:58 PM
Hi sparra 1 I would call patrolapart they do plenty of those conversions. They gave me all the info to do my 2.8 to 4.2 conversion.

sparra 1
19th March 2012, 07:07 PM
Hi sparra 1 I would call patrolapart they do plenty of those conversions. They gave me all the info to do my 2.8 to 4.2 conversion.

i will do that thanks benno having a hard time finding a 4.2 with everything else i need, how did you go with the change over ??? cheers

nissannewby
19th March 2012, 10:31 PM
I would be trying to source a wreck with a 4.2 as this will have everything you need. You will need to change dash pedal box engine mounts etc you may have to also upgrade your suspension with the engine as the 4.2 would be quite a bit heavier than the little 3l. I thought the 3l had a smaller box (could be wrong) that wasnt quite as strong as the one bolted to the back of a 4.2. But if you can get a wreck this will all be there.

teleman
19th March 2012, 10:32 PM
Just saying... i know the 4.2 is a legendary engine, but a well looked after 3.0l is great. Mine never misses a beat. Great fuel economy, lots of grunt. EPIC torque (especially in low range).
If you want a 4.2 then buy a 4.2. i think its unnecessary to go through the effort of this sort of conversion.

outbackjack
20th March 2012, 03:20 AM
I agree, keep it a ZD30. Patrolapart could do the conversion easily enough. They have a wrecking yard with all parts required.

But I liking the ZD30 to other vehicles with engine faults. Sigma`s with soft rings, Toyota Landcruiser with soft big ends. Once the faults was diagnosed and fixed they become a good vehicle(well maybe not the Sigma).

Not sure if your ZD30 is running or not. But parts are getting cheaper now, there are several on Evilbay over the last couple of weeks.

brodz_666
15th April 2012, 07:37 PM
Hey mate im doin the conversion now! Would be best to get a wreck, thats the easy way! But as usual im takin the hard road lol. U do need to move both front engine mounts and use td42 type, also change the bellhousing... Bit of work mate but can be done easily enuff...

Fity
16th April 2012, 10:56 AM
I am researching mine at the moment. I bought a cheap 4.2l with high kms and a trashed body as a doner. Here is a list of things that I have found to need moving, changing or replacing.

Bellhousing
Engine mounts
Radiator
Tacho
Exhaust
Wiring

What has everyone done to get the tacho to work from a TD42 pick up.

Hunty
16th April 2012, 05:56 PM
Mate go the 4.2 you won't regret it. There is a big deifference between a 3l and a 4.2.
You can get alot of power out of a 4.2 if you spend a bit of money.

Fity as for getting the tacho to pick up I believe you need to get a whole new dash cluster.
I know the 2.8 one still works but the 3l ones are different.
You will also need to change your throttle cable over as it will be computerized and 4.2 is just a
Straight cable.

Fity
16th April 2012, 07:18 PM
Thanks Hunty. I think the gq pedal and cable will fit the gu all the bolts and holes look to be right.

I guess a rd28 or td42 dash from a gu will get it working, I might play around with building an electronic box between the tacho and pick up. I enjoy that sort of thing.

brodz_666
16th April 2012, 07:41 PM
If you search in google for killa kustom kables there is a bloke in qld that changes the looms over to suit the td42 and its all plug and play, im waiting for mine to arrive any day now. It still uses the 3l computer and runs everything!

Hunty
16th April 2012, 08:13 PM
In the 2.8 most of the computer stuf is for emissions stuff and was all cut out and only the basic wires were left. It was going to cost $800 to send it to that bloke for him to cut it all out.
I would assume that the 3l is mainly emissions stuff to so I you changed the instrument cluster to a 4.2 or 2.8 an you know a bit about wiring or you know somebody you will save yourself money and time.

PattyWgnOwen
19th April 2012, 12:17 AM
Did mine last year.
Td42 bolts straight up to zd30 auto box.
Recommend factory new engine mount brackets. There is a really good thread on the other patrol forum with photos started by Bexi.
I used a GQ Engine which was already turbo intercooled.
Sold zd30 for $3k so cost about $15 to get it all done incl engine.

Fity
19th April 2012, 05:32 PM
I did read Bexi's thread on the other forum before it got infected. I may have to buy an apple to read it again. :)

PattyWgnOwen
20th April 2012, 05:59 PM
same in Qld, except that if the engine you are putting in was not a factory turbo, we need a blue platewith code for the turbo and a separate code for the intercooler.
Mine is a 2000 model with a 1991 silver top engine, which was not even turboed back then.
blue plate cost me $150 plus two hours sitting around at Qld Transport so that a pencil pusher could come out and read the engine number?
He was too fat to see over the mud guard so i had to read it out to him??????? What a joke!

Hunty
20th April 2012, 06:11 PM
Owen was that $150 for the intercooler and turbo?

And why does the intercooler have to mod plated? just because its not factory?

PattyWgnOwen
20th April 2012, 07:53 PM
The 2000 model was not produced with an intercooler, but I think if the engine number corresponds to an engine that was factory fitted with an intercooler you might not need the mod plate for it?
It would not surprise me that the intercooler needs a mod plate anyway just because td42ti was not an option in 2000.
$150 was for one mod plate - i have heard some things require more paperwork, and may therefore be more expensive to plate.
On my car, the one mod plate has two codes on it, and I have seen mod plates on say HQ holdens with up to a dozen codes.
you would be surprised what needs a mod plate, including removal of the back seats to install drawers.

edit - the $150 was the plate fee. Qld transport did not charge me a fee, but I did get a bill for the extra rego to bring it from a 4 cyl to a 6 cyl.

NissanGQ4.2
21st April 2012, 06:16 PM
vicroads have told me a engineers certificate is not needed if 4.2t was availble in your model

Could be wrong.... but you will find that even if it was available in that year model, you will still need it engineered as its a modification to your vehicle.

Post up an intro about yourself and your rig when you get a chance

PattyWgnOwen
23rd April 2012, 12:04 PM
I thought about it some more. The engine might not need engineering, but I would suspect that the new engine mounts probably will?
The engine number will pick up on the rego when you change it.
The turbo and intercooler mods will need engineering if the specific engine number does not reflect the digits of these add-ons?
ie: if you change from a non turbo td42 to a later model factory td42ti you prob not need mod plate?
different rules for each state, but the ADR carries across so tehre may be somethign in there you can read up on?
if not, just ring transport authority - they will usually be happy to answer your questions.
Owen.

PattyWgnOwen
23rd April 2012, 12:05 PM
hey I just saw an advert go up on the other forum from Bexi - engine mounts and chassis mounts cut from a GQ - not sure how much - did not go and look at the advert?

audiostu
30th April 2012, 09:50 PM
I did the conversion myself on the driveway. Purchased some 4 bolt mounts for a 4.2 off a GQ( same rails as GU ) $100 and carefully cut them off the old rails with a grinder, a plasma cutter will do a great job as well. Cutting off the old 3 ltr mounts is to be done carefully so as not to damage the rails, in QLD a engineers mod plate is all that is required, about $100 for blue plate. All the hard work for the conversion ADR business is already taken care of as nissan offered this motor in the model range. My Gu is a 2000 model so I used a 2000 GU TD42T spec motor so turboing and intetcooling is all good as the 3ltr DI motor was also intercooled and turboed. I had an extra mod code added to the mod plate for the non factory garrett turbo install just to be sure. LA1 and LA2 are the codes on my blue plate. I have heaps of info on the conversion, plus hundreds of pics as i went. Hope this helps, do it, you will wonder how you ever lived without the 4.2t.Cheers. Stu.

audiostu
30th April 2012, 09:54 PM
A note for the taco, I sent my altenator into the auto sparkies and had it refurbished with a wire run off one of the diodes to give the pulse for a aftermarket VDO tacho which I installed. Works a treat.

PattyWgnOwen
1st May 2012, 11:19 AM
my factory tacho works fine and I did not need to add any wires to the alternator.
Perhaps my alternator is different.
I was told that a module was installed for speedo and tacho - sounds plug and play to me.
You shoudl call Killer Kustom Kables in Qld as they do wirinf looms for these all the time.
my engine came out of a 1991 GQ wagon - factory auto model.

Fity
2nd May 2012, 11:50 AM
A note for the taco, I sent my altenator into the auto sparkies and had it refurbished with a wire run off one of the diodes to give the pulse for a aftermarket VDO tacho which I installed. Works a treat.

Do all the ignition lights go out without a tacho signal? I would have thought something would need to be fed into somewhere keep it happy. Did you unplug the ECU?

Killer Kustom Kables do make a harness, but they want a lot of $$$ for it. :(

PattyWgnOwen
2nd May 2012, 01:32 PM
i have no electrical issues, unlike so many others on the forums, so $300 for a KKK harness does not seem like bad value to me at all?

Fity
2nd May 2012, 04:30 PM
i have no electrical issues, unlike so many others on the forums, so $300 for a KKK harness does not seem like bad value to me at all?

I thought I read someone post that the KKK harness was something like $800? I can do all the wiring if that is all that is needed, but the adaption of the sensors is the unknown bit ie, water temp, glow plug, and tacho sensors

PattyWgnOwen
2nd May 2012, 05:43 PM
I thought I read someone post that the KKK harness was something like $800? I can do all the wiring if that is all that is needed, but the adaption of the sensors is the unknown bit ie, water temp, glow plug, and tacho sensors

Hey mate - you are correct - I went back to check the original quote. I paid $950 which included removal of my loom, postage, creation of the new plug and play loom, and the necessary modules to interface with all of the bits and pieces.
I was quoted another $300 for something else that I did not end up needing. Still worth giving KKK a call - he is a forum member and will be able to explain what he does and how the modules are used to interface between the ECU and the new engine signals. Lots of guys complain about engine lights not going off or tachos not working, so even though it is a bit more expensive, could be worthwhile to be sure that your computer is reacting properly to signals?

as I said, i do not have any electrical issues.

Fity
3rd May 2012, 10:50 AM
Thanks Mate. I should stop asking how much, it keeps going up. :)

I can adapt the harnesses and whatever. I will give them a call to see if I can buy the bits and assemble it myself. Do you have a number for KKK? I can't find one.

PattyWgnOwen
3rd May 2012, 11:05 AM
I googled it and their facebook comes up on top.
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Killa-Kustom-Kables/202181769825285
phone number and email address is on teh facebook page.

they also have an ebay store for price comparisons??

Fity
3rd May 2012, 12:35 PM
Thanks, I googled and it only found forum post, none had a number.

PattyWgnOwen
3rd May 2012, 02:11 PM
yeah, google is good until you spell even one letter wrong?
All the K's ???

Fity
3rd May 2012, 02:43 PM
Oops, I did Killer not Killa.