more than a few questions 1993 Diesel Gq "Mechanically Good" except any parts that go

[pocoaust]

Hi guys,

Here begins my odessey to get the car fixed... strange thing is that by the time I've asked my 25 questions to get the manual, i wont need it any more. ;-)

I have the following issues so far (actually many more but I can't face them right now)

So here goes......

Torque Specs on Replacement Water Pump?

Do i need some form of sealant on Waterpump, or gasket is okay?

How do I replace diesel filter and bleed?

Oil capactiy on Diesel and what is best flush additive?

Fan Belt tension settings?

Aircondictioner belt removed, is there easy way to check if gas still in system?

Instructions for front swivel rebuild?

Deisel is leaking from fuel tank, but not top, its dry, other common areas?

Thanks in advance

Paul from country Victoria

[nissannewby]

As long as the surfaces are clean and dry a gasket will do fine.

Diesel fitter is just a spin on remove the filter and place switch into new filter spin new filter on and prime up with pump on top of filter until the pump is firm.

Oil capacity is about 11L if i remember correctly.

With the air con i would check to see if the pulley spins freely as these can seize if its not then any air con place will prob throw a set of gauges on it for you for nothing to check the gas.

I would invest in a gregorys or haynes manual get your 25 posts as manuals are you best friend when doing such things as swivel rebuild.

Hope this info helps

[pocoaust]

Thanks mate.

[White Elephant]

Not sure on the water pump torque settings, If I can't get access to the factory torque settings a good rule of thumb is to tighten the bolts until they "bite" then give em each another 2 clicks of the elbow!

I would always use a small bead of Permatex Ultra grey, on both sides of the gasket just to make sure everything seals up properly. Tighten the bolts to finger tight, and let them sit for about 15-20mins so the sealant can "skin" then torque them up.

A good rule of thumb for any belt tension is to tension them up and press down on the belt in the middle between 2 pulleys and you should get about 12mm or 1/2" movement with a slight resistance. this will ensure the belt is seated correctly in the pulleys, and you aren't putting any extra stress on the pulley bearings than you need to. If you run the engine and you hear a belt squeal on start up, or under load, give the tensioner a few extra turns.

Any off the shelf oil flush will be okay, pour it into the oil filler and run your engine for 15-20mins or until she runs up to operating temp. Then let it cool down for a while, so all the dirty oil can drain from the motor into the sump(and let the oil cool down before you pull the sump plug cos hot oil is nasty if you get it on your skin!) I use Nulon Diesel engine treatment, because it is made in Australia for Australian conditions. but again, most off the shelf engine oil additves will be ok, as long as they are specified for diesel engines.

My 2c. Hope it helps, and enjoy!

[pocoaust]

Thanks mate... would like to know exact figures if anyone has them. Other advice is all good. This will be my first car built completely from ground up from spare parts... only joking, but sometimes it does feel like it....... ;-(

[Alben]

we had two separate tanks that both leaked from the bottom where it looked like there were some spot welds that gradually had diesel weap through. Ended up covering the tow bar in diesel after a while. From memory i think our mechanic brazed it up. No leak since

[Richo460]

Torque setting for water pump bolts are not critical. The method of tightening mentioned above is actually a very common method used world wide called the 'part turn method' amongst other names. Basically you get the bolt to a snug fit where the 2 mating surfaces are nipped up, then you give the bolt another 1/3rd of a turn. For a water pump getting it to seal is more important than bolt torque.

Oil in my TD42 is a bit over 9 litres with filters.

Tension on belt about 10mm deviation when pushing it down with one finger.

Best bet with the aircon is to get a mobile air con bloke out of to just chuck a belt on it and see. I have heard there is a pressure switch in the system and when there is no pressure it will not turn on the ac. I am guessing that it would not kick in the clutch on the compressor but am not too sure.

Definately follow the manual for the swivel hubs.

For the fuel tank, give it a good clean, if you can't see the leak then put some talcom powder on the tank and look for the wet spot, hahahaha, no seriously i have done this to find leaks before. May need to remove the tank and get it repaired.

[97_gq_lwb]

Their is a pressure switch on the reciever dryer or the black round upright cylinder usually sits on the drivers side in front of the battery.
You could check that for continuity.
Or Otherwise turn the aircon on and see if the pulley on the aircon pump locks up it will be harder to turn if it is and will otherwise freespin.
I am trying this moreys diesel additive in my fuel lately heard ok reports on it.