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Polardropbear
25th February 2012, 05:59 PM
Apart from the fact it is almost impossible for me to get my big mitts in there. Are there any special techniques to removing the spark plug from No.6 Cylinder. The spark is not firing until warm and in is in very tight so I am presuming the gap has eroded or the spark plug is bad. I am afraid of breaking the plug should I put too much torque into it.

1993 RB42E Patrol.

Woof
25th February 2012, 10:13 PM
Hey mate, drop over the the introduction thread and introduce yourself, just gets everyone on side from the start.
PS Welcome to the forum, enjoy

Silver
25th February 2012, 11:29 PM
It may be easier to remove when the engine and thus the head are warmed up to operating temp.

If it is sticky, you need to be alert to the possibility that the plug is taking the alloy threads with it on the way out. Perhaps a solution to this problem is to wind out a fraction of a turn, and then back in, and then out again and so on.

Others with more experience will provide more and better advice, I suspect.

If you've got big mits, a nice straight piece of garden hose slipped over the plug may help you hold the new plug when you start it into the threads.

Oh yeah, posting up an intro is taken reasonably seriously on here - if you haven't done it already!

Good luck with the plug.

matto9018
1st March 2012, 09:52 PM
You mean TB42E?? I did spark plugs on my TB42E the other week, need flexy section to get into the plugs. 3 5 6 is abit mucking around but it'll come out.

BoroNSW
1st March 2012, 11:15 PM
I agree flexi spark plug spanner is a must, however a warm engine is a must.

Robo
2nd March 2012, 12:23 PM
As silver said If you can manage a few small turns in/out,
Then after its cooled off a bit I'd spray some penetrating oil.
Let soak for a bit and give it a working as before and more spray, and so on again and again this may help.

Buy your self some anti seize lube, alloy diff metals compatible, and use a little on plugs threads "from now on" .
Threads on some plugs are fairly long, a couple of applications may be needed for it to work down in the thread of head to work properly , that's been my experience.
been doing this for yrs now after experiencing similar to you.
replacing them now they turn more easily don't over tighten.
cheers

Pablo76
2nd March 2012, 09:50 PM
Hey Mate, a good 3/8 drive set with a flexy joint works a treat, and follow all the other info here too, if you havent got antiseize a bit of engine oils good too, if its not your plug check and clean your dizzy cap and go for a new lead set, alot of people tend to pull on the lead not the cover when removing the lead which can stuff it in one pull, also a can of rost off works amazing on sticky theads, but follow silvers and Robos suggestion as well on the thread. Hope this helps, Paul.

Robo
3rd March 2012, 10:13 AM
Engine oil can carbonise when temperature involved and cause trouble, stick with hi temp anti seize.
I basically use anti seize on most fittings that come apart, things like flange nuts, turbo lines.
If it screws up and needs to come apart for servicing, water is involved or hi temps.
not everything, just those fitting that are usually a pain.
Cheers

patch697
3rd March 2012, 10:42 AM
Engine oil can carbonise when temperature involved and cause trouble, stick with hi temp anti seize.
I basically use anti seize on most fittings that come apart, things like flange nuts, turbo lines.
If it screws up and needs to come apart for servicing, water is involved or hi temps.
not everything, just those fitting that are usually a pain.
Cheers

Agreed..... Anti seize is your friend when installing spark plugs & other fittings into alloy & stainless, its also a great aid on exhaust bolts & studs....

I use a copper/graphite combo for Hi temp & find it an excellent product.

A flexi drive is a must for spark plug changes on a TB42E or "S" & be sure not to over do it on the reinstall, you are screwing into an alloy thread & if you strip it, its a head off to repair it...

MudRunnerTD
3rd March 2012, 04:46 PM
:jawdrop:

Holy Sh1t!!!! Its Patch!!! Patch is Back!!!! Hows your back there fella!!! You'd be looking fitter i reckon ;)

Hell Yeah!! Patch is back! You still in love mate?? Hope so, its good for the soul mate.

Pop Over to the Intro section and say g'day, tell us a little about yourself!! :bananarock:

Hijack Over. :hijacked:


Nothing here

sam697
3rd March 2012, 07:32 PM
:jawdrop:

Holy Sh1t!!!! Its Patch!!! Patch is Back!!!! Hows your back there fella!!! You'd be looking fitter i reckon ;)

Hell Yeah!! Patch is back! You still in love mate?? Hope so, its good for the soul mate.

Pop Over to the Intro section and say g'day, tell us a little about yourself!! :bananarock:

Hijack Over. :hijacked:


Nothing here


Roflmao !!!!

patch697
3rd March 2012, 07:33 PM
:jawdrop:

Holy Sh1t!!!! Its Patch!!! Patch is Back!!!! Hows your back there fella!!! You'd be looking fitter i reckon ;)

Hell Yeah!! Patch is back! You still in love mate?? Hope so, its good for the soul mate.

Pop Over to the Intro section and say g'day, tell us a little about yourself!! :bananarock:

Hijack Over. :hijacked:


Nothing here

Drunken behavior like that will have me PMing you MR???......hahahahahahaha

Pablo76
3rd March 2012, 08:06 PM
Sorry guys id never known about a plug carbonising with oil on it shall take that on board, learn something new today, check! :)

Robo
5th March 2012, 12:16 PM
Carbonising is rare but can/does happen.
The problem is mainly the steel spark plug and alloy head, different metals usually cause problems.
All good, not to worry.
cheers