What did you do to your Patrol today!

[PeeBee]

WOW, that is super bad luck - is it a common failure point on that engine?

[Mickhead]

WOW, that is super bad luck - is it a common failure point on that engine?

Not sure if its common, but they call them grenades and it lived up to its reputation ! Weird thing is both rear valves in the front cylinder have been bent, one inlet and one exhaust. The front ones seem fine, not sure how this is possible!
83405

[Mickhead]

Oops wrong pic look at the dents in the buckets ! ������ 83407

[Ben-e-boy]

I'm not really a fan of the Redarc boost and pyro gauge. The dials are too small So I dragged out my old VDO stuff and mounted around the gauge cluster.
Removing the Redarc means I have also lost the coolant temp, I think I'll order the Redarc oil pressure gauge and utilise the coolant temp sensor too. That'll cover most of whats going on

[mudski]

I'm not really a fan of the Redarc boost and pyro gauge. The dials are too small So I dragged out my old VDO stuff and mounted around the gauge cluster.
Removing the Redarc means I have also lost the coolant temp, I think I'll order the Redarc oil pressure gauge and utilise the coolant temp sensor too. That'll cover most of whats going on

I love my McNally Boost and EGT gauge.
83410

[Tip12345]

so how much boost are you running ?

[rusty_nail]

I love my McNally Boost and EGT gauge.
83410Yep it wasn't cheap but a bloody nice bit of gear when I had one in my patrol

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[mudski]

so how much boost are you running ?

Me? Got no idea now. Haha, the needle goes past 30 and hits the stopper if I send it. But my usual driving would be 25-30psi.

[Hodge]

Fresh LSD oil and swapped the alternator just before.
Beer o'clock [emoji481]. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/05/65.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/05/66.jpg

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[10G]

Was driving home from Bunnings yesterday, slowing down for traffic lights, not quite coming to a complete stop.. When I started to move forward the poo let out a small “ FFT FFT “ sound, like driving over a sheet of plasterboard some tradie dropped...And lost all power. Drove it off the road with the starter motor. RACV bloke suggested fuel issues, however I thought it was cranking faster than usual on the starter motor, compression loss?
Started autopsy today. Shes Farked. Time for an Amarok.

8340383404

How the fridge does a cam snap, surely that can only be shitty material can't it????????????????

[Brissieboy]

Finally got around to making and installing the shelf for the rear door. All from bits and pieces I had on hand except for the piano hinge. Even set up a light up top. Tried it out in anger during a few days away last week. I'd call it a success.
834678346883469

[10G]

Nice work, very neat.

[gazq]

The old rusted sliding window frames have been bugging me as has the tired interior door cards. Gone solid glass and new 2mm thick plastic cards. Looking less like a shit box both inside and out.
8351983518

Next are new injectors and glow plugs.

[Dasa]

Recently had a snorkel installed and picked up a carry me camper which lead to needing a reversing camera.
83582
Squeezed the CIG power plug into the overhead light panel
8357383574
Then had to swap the power from battery to accessory in the fuse box which also took out the clock but there is plenty of other clocks including one in the mirror which has its own battery.
83575
GPS unit stuck to the dash with wires tucked behind the windscreen rubber.
83576
12" mirror was a snug fit so I chopped a bit off the sun visor mount so that they could sit out a little wider. Then I moved the mirror mount a bit and ground it down so that it sits higher and closer to the windscreen but then it needed a bit more chopped off the end so that the overhead lights would fit back up.
83577835788357983580
Wire for the rear camera is routed around the windscreen rubber to the top of the drivers door trim then out below the rear window and ended up with a foot or two to spare.
83581
For anyone that is interested it is a WOLFBOX Mirror Dash Cam $190 on amazon.au
Also the Snorkel dropped EGT ~40c probably more in hot weather when it is borderline boiling.

[MB]

Beaut Stuff Dasa Mate [emoji106][emoji106]
Would be keen to see some piccies of your new tray camper too if and when time possibly permits [emoji120][emoji41][emoji736]


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[Winnie]

Keen to see what you think of that camera unit after a little bit of time mate, it looks awesome and the price is right. I need to do something in my wagon.

Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk

[Ben-e-boy]

I made a little frame up to house my compressor and tank. I just need to sort some conduit and an anderson plug out for the supply cables and it'll be good enough for a bit

Once I get my new canopy, that whole setup will end up on runners and built into a bigger frame with outlets between the tray and cab


83635

83636

[MB]

Fark me, I think I get what you mean Ben Mate, and that is as Daz would say: “next level” Love IT [emoji41][emoji106][emoji106]
I’m assuming you’re temporarily running the system in the work tray for now until 100% happy before next Legendary Steps.....can I copy oneday too please Bloke [emoji120][emoji1696][emoji106][emoji106]


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[Mickhead]

How the fridge does a cam snap, surely that can only be shitty material can't it????????????????

Nah, bolt left loose by a shitty mechanic who replaced the head years ago before I owned it. Removed head, cleaned stuff, we can rebuild it!🤪💩83640

[mudski]

Nah, bolt left loose by a shitty mechanic who replaced the head years ago before I owned it. Removed head, cleaned stuff, we can rebuild it!🤪💩83640

You've obviously said F*$k you to this motor once or twice before. The motor has left a little message in response on the front piston I see. :wink:

[Ben-e-boy]

I put my old rear Superflex sway bar in the soft roader. Having the factory sub tank made the drivers side bracket a monumental pain in the arse to install

83641

[MB]

MudRunnerTD Mate, your Beast needs these too Brother [emoji120][emoji106][emoji106]
I’m assuming Ben Suspension Legend had this rear Superior installed up his ‘Champion Link TK’ video climb?


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[MudRunnerTD]

MudRunnerTD Mate, your Beast needs these too Brother [emoji120][emoji106][emoji106]
I’m assuming Ben Suspension Legend had this rear Superior installed up his ‘Champion Link TK’ video climb?


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Sway Bars are Overrated......

Nah i have that sway bar on the front of the GU actually. Yeah i would like to refit some sway bars... One day.

[MudRunnerTD]

I made a little frame up to house my compressor and tank. I just need to sort some conduit and an anderson plug out for the supply cables and it'll be good enough for a bit

Once I get my new canopy, that whole setup will end up on runners and built into a bigger frame with outlets between the tray and cab


83635

83636

Nice one Bene, did i miss a post? have you bought a new Patrol mate? a Build Thread is required bud!

[Ben-e-boy]

Nice one Bene, did i miss a post? have you bought a new Patrol mate? a Build Thread is required bud!

Yes I bought a GU. Its only a soft roader. Legal lift, mufflers, sway bars. It's for real legal and road worthy and will pretty much remain fairly close to that. I need to build it a bit before it gets a build thread.

This post

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?p=818930#post818930

[MB]

Time for some legal highway work runs soon so bought Golden Oldie some fresh boots:

BFG All Terrain KO2’s 33 x 12.5 R15 (previous models, soon to be discontinued like my beloved KM2 Mud series already gone)

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/06/6.jpg

Some fresh new Dynamic tough and safe steelies too for only $95 a piece so spoilt the old truck with some fresh new matching black nuts as well [emoji23]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/06/7.jpg


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[Cuppa]

Finished packing & prepping our Patrol (& Tvan) for our forthcoming trip up the Cape. Leaving Saturday via Chillagoe. Excitement (mixed with a little apprehension) is building. Will be on the Old Coach Road on Sunday.

[mudnut]

Chasing a slight wobble at 70-80kph. Nipped up the passenger side wheel bearing, and replaced the steering damper. The new one does not feel as solid as the old one, but it seemed to get better after a few pumps. Hopefully it will bed in with use.

[mudnut]

Took it for a test run and its worse. I'll give it a week and if it doesn't settle down I'll take the bastard back. I hate having to do a job 3 times.

[MB]

Time for some legal highway work runs soon so bought Golden Oldie some fresh boots:

BFG All Terrain KO2’s 33 x 12.5 R15 (previous models, soon to be discontinued like my beloved KM2 Mud series already gone)

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/06/6.jpg

Some fresh new Dynamic tough and safe steelies too for only $95 a piece so spoilt the old truck with some fresh new matching black nuts as well [emoji23]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/06/7.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wanker style replying to ones own post [emoji2961][emoji23]
FWIW: The first time I’ve ever owned 12.5” wide Road/All Terrain type tyres, always them widths have been M/T chunkier piercing off-road variants.
Wet local windy highway early this morning (shithouse road maintenance with decent puddles galore) managed to slightly step out the front and arse end ‘Aquaplaning’ [emoji51]
Lucky I drive like a daily Grandpa in the massive 70rwkw TD42 and hoping they’ll prove their worth on some drier highways and bull dust/sand flat width one day soon [emoji1696]


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[PeeBee]

Same here @MB, spending most of my time, when permitted, up the high country, I am more focused on ground pressure than floating such as you might want with sand etc. The widest i have run is the Goodyear Wrangler MTR in 32 x 11 and that worked fine - unsure if i would notice the difference going to 12.5 though. I would struggle to fit the 12.5" under my factory flares as well, as the offset the vehicle came with was set up for the tiny 31 x 10.5R15 wheels. Now running 17" rims, I will be looking at a set of all terrains and swapping the alloys out to those and putting the muddies on the steelies. The muddy's are 285/70/17's from memory and track very nicely, however I suspect the 86T mass helps a bit.

[Mickhead]

45 nm, 0, 100nm, 0, 42 nm, 90 degrees, 90 degrees. For fux sake! 🤪🤪🤪83686

[mudnut]

Got the replacement steering damper for the replacement steering damper. It too was useless so got another refund. That's Drivetech and Nitro brands both being defective. Have ordered a Munroe, which used to be at least a good brand. Is it just me or is a metal tube filled with oil, with some seals a few washers and rubber components mounted on a shaft too complicated to get right?

[mudnut]

The Munroe damper turned up. Made in the US, and is cheaper than the other crap. Good piece of kit, but bit needs a rubber boot, which is out of stock. We found a universal steering rack boot that suits it perfectly.

[Dasa]

Installed a GFB Atomic Boost Controller yesterday.
Not sure it was worth it for the DTS turbo. Sure it makes changing the max boost level quicker and easier but other than that it doesn't seem to make any difference to the boost curve or anything like that.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=83716&stc=1


Keen to see what you think of that camera unit after a little bit of time mate, it looks awesome and the price is right. I need to do something in my wagon.

So far I am happy enough but it is not perfect.

Lane departure warning doesn't work properly which is not surprising.

There was some problems with the touch screen being unresponsive sometimes which I think was due to the processor being overloaded but disabling features I don't need like lane departure seems to have fixed it.

It would be nice if it had a sensor for brightness to auto adjust the display for bright days but minimum brightness seems ok most the time with a dark tint on rear and side windows.

Clock is set by the GPS which you need to set the timezone for. Took me a bit to work out why when I set the time it would change a short time after driving off.

Takes a few seconds to startup which is just quick enough with a long glow time on a cold start but if your in a rush with a warm start you can be almost finished reversing before it kicks in.

Image quality and low light capability is good and while the vertical view is a bit zoomed so that I cant see the tow bar when using full screen view you can tilt the view down by sliding your finger on the touch screen so that you are looking right at it.

Any change to the view angle throws out the safe distance markers but they are adjustable and only really needed with a view of the horizon then just flick it down when nearing the tow hitch for hookup.
Split screen is fine it gives you the full camera FoV but you don't really need the camera to show what is in front of you on the mirror.

There is a bit of a green glow from the overhead light from a led on the power adapter I installed in there.

They do seem to be listening to owners at the moment and frequently making feature changes and bug fixes with new firmware releases.



Would be keen to see some piccies of your new tray camper too if and when time possibly permits [emoji120][emoji41][emoji736]

Hasn't been great weather for it but here is what I have so far.
It is a 2004 model which I have been purchasing a heap of stuff for to kit it out and replacing the electrics with something more up to date.
Spoke to a mate with one the other day and he seemed to think it had been repainted and the top cover replaced at some stage all in all I am happy that it was well worth the days drive to pickup last month.

Pickup
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=83718&stc=1
Back paddock during lockdown where we had a chance to find out that it can keep us dry and use 4x4 to get out of there the next day.
Side door closes and the ladder goes up there to get into bed on top.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=83715&stc=1

[Mickhead]

83719

More stuff put together hope its worth it 🤪

[mudnut]

Fitted new front panhard bushes and nipped up the D/S wheel bearings. The old neoprene bushes have worn at least a 1mm of steel from the panhard on both ends. There appeared to be no grease applied when they were fitted. I fitted neoprene ones at 60$ compared to REPCOs price of $210 for a set of black rubber ones.
Seeing as they ends are worn, I will shell out for another panhard and bushes from Patrolapart (55$ a set) when it starts playing up again.

The test run was successful.

[Mickhead]

83792

Started it. It lives again 😀🤪

[BrazilianY60]

Time for some legal highway work runs soon so bought Golden Oldie some fresh boots:
BFG All Terrain KO2’s 33 x 12.5 R15 (previous models, soon to be discontinued like my beloved KM2 Mud series already gone)

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/06/6.jpg



I believe those BFG AT tires are amongst the best looking ones you can have on a 4x4. Unfortunatelly, every chance I got to change tires on one of my rigs, the BFG prices have had just skyrocketed...

[Hodge]

Fitted up the new battery and upgraded Alt-to-battery cable. Fitted nicely despite the odd shape and being higher than the usual N70 (note the photo height compare). Patrol now cranks like a 15 year old !!!!
Was hoping the new terminals would arrive so I could finish and tidy up everything but probably Monday's job for now.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=83800&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=83801&stc=1

[MB]

Well Done Hodgestar [emoji106][emoji106]
Even matches your washer bottle cap [emoji3449][emoji23]
You’re honestly going to love Optima’s [emoji120]
I personally and many other mates face to face discussions are perplexed and have no idea where the McGoogle bad press comes from, can only assume insanely poor system designs because no one I know has experienced anything but bulletproof greatness [emoji123][emoji123]


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[Hodge]

Well Done Hodgestar [emoji106][emoji106]
Even matches your washer bottle cap [emoji3449][emoji23]
You’re honestly going to love Optima’s [emoji120]
I personally and many other mates face to face discussions are perplexed and have no idea where the McGoogle bad press comes from, can only assume insanely poor system designs because no one I know has experienced anything but bulletproof greatness [emoji123][emoji123]




Thanks Marko mate. When a new starter needed came up on the cards, it was a no brainer really. After seeing jff45 Johns setup and consulting legendary Mudrunner about fitting, it was a done deal.
Extra caution is called for with the oil dipstick for it not to become a welding arc wand vs. the positive terminal with new battery height.

[growler2058]

Nice new oil+filter+air filter= 2ltrs maybe of dirty black nasty sump oil on my concrete driveway.

Some of you will know me n sump oil just don't get on :(

[Hodge]

Like growler.
Changed oil and all filters. So freakin messy with the TD filters. Tidied up some electrics. Subby 'o clock now!

[Dasa]

Slapped together a battery box.
83822
83823
83824
Claas oil drum cover.
83825

[Dasa]

Well that didn't go as planed.
83976

[Grant209]

New Roof Rack fitted the past week.

Removed the Old Rescue Basket (Ladder Rack) System, Rhino Basket and 150mm PVC Tube, and fitted a OCAM Alloy Flat Rack and two 100mm PVC Tubes in their place.

83978
Old Setup

83979
OCAM Replacement Rack "Less Solar Panel"

83982

83980
Part way there

83981
Finished



More practical storage solution now

[Brissieboy]

Well that didn't go as planed.


Although those circuit breakers are claimed to be waterproof, be warned - THEY ARE NOT. Water does get in around the shafts through the rubber membrane. At least that is my experience. And mine were only subjected to spray/splash and not immersion.

[Dasa]

Figured as much looking at it.
So considering the battery location I guess the best option is auto reset breakers then paint it to seal it up.

[PeeBee]

Installed some 90 deg hose bends on the rear engine cooling loop instead of the externally restrained wire hose formers, so now I have better flow than before - still have to install the kit i purchased from the US that is sized correctly apparently. Also installed a manual breather on the heater circuit so I can get rid of as much air as possible from the cooling circuit. Been a big day.

[PeeBee]

Wiring completed, stuff that wasn't working is, apart from the turbo timer function as truck wont turn off now without pulling the IP solenoid wire, will sort that tomorrow. Wiring is now a total pigs dinner, really have to get this sorted at some point. Anyway everything working now, so mechanic on friday morning for the final brake bleed.

[PeeBee]

Did a cranking amp check on the main battery after the charger went mental yesterday arvo and was pumping in 15.5V. reset the charger function and let the battery rest a couple of hours, then put it back on charge, 14.4V decreasing to a float around 13.2. Anyway, the analyser showed a float at 12.9 and a cca of only 320amp, against nameplate of 720. Checked out a couple of other batteries I had and they came up fine, so made the decision to go the Optima route. Height of the optima 31 over the terminals was too tight under my bonnet, so went the 27M instead as a direct footprint of the 'conventional battery. Checked with MB what he had, advised the 31, however tight fit. Anyway, great price delivered ex Adelaide, be here friday, happy days. then the battery in the wife's mazda dies, never rains.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221310514695

[PeeBee]

Traced the turbo timer issue down, so truck no stops on demand - great step forward!

[Cuppa]

Replaced the auxiliary batteries in the pod. One of the 3 Ritar 120Ah AGM’s failed, placing the other two under stress in the cloudy weather FNQ has been getting. At a tad under 10 years old they have done well, but obviously all had reduced capacity which became increasingly noticeable after more than one cloudy day in a row. We were up on the Cape at Laura for the aboriginal dance festival, intending to continue north, but instead drove back down to Mareeba to get batteries (& to get a split in a welded seam of our main water tank plastic welded. Tank needed to come out to get the batteries out - so two birds with one stone. Bought Ritar batteries again. Considered Lithium ‘drop In’ replacements but would have cost me double, & I don’t trust the built in BMS in most drop ins. When it fails ( which anecdotally seems to be at around the 4 year mark) the Lithium battery becomes a door stop (sorry to all the satisfied iTech (& similar) owners, but $800 or thereabouts for 4 years vs $340 for 10 years for good quality AGM’s is a no brainer for me despite the weight penalty). 360Ah for $1020 & a ‘useable capacity comparable to 200Ah of Lithium (200Ah is not a typo, but a more ‘truthful’ capacity of 2x iTech ‘120’Ah batteries). If we were at home with the resources of my workshop changing to a ‘proper’ external BMS Lithium system with a new dc to dc battery charger /solar reg would have been a consideration, but simpler & cheaper to stick with what I have with the aim to get back up the Cape asap.

[Pete49]

After a major problem mostly of my making, I had to remove the pistons from my '92 GQ and re ring and big end bearings. The old girl has 4600 kms on it and was surprised to find the bore and bearings are still standard measurement. It was running duel fuel but due to gas prices I've gone to straight petrol. Was not using oil and there's no coking on the pistons. Rather chuffed with it and so will be good for many more kms once its all done.:hpfredgeorge1:
Pete

[PeeBee]

New battery arrived today, 22hrs after ordering, Adelaide to Melb suburbs, can't beat that. Fits like a glove, put the battery analyser onto it and its rated at 800cca, showing 1025cca - I know these things have a reputation for high performance, but this is next level, happy days.

[Hodge]

200Ah of Lithium (200Ah is not a typo, but a more ‘truthful’ capacity of 2x iTech ‘120’Ah batteries).

Hi Cuppa .
So you're saying 2 x Itechs , supposedly rated at 120Ah each are rated 200Ah combined ? Just wondering where you're basing this maths off ?

My Itech runs circles around my previous 105Ah full river, which is a good brand and ran great distance on its own. Sometimes a full day or 2 after the Full river AGM dropped to dangerous number , the lithium kept laughing at it. It goes well beyond the so called 120 "AGM" amp hours.
Charging and long distance running, they are not even in the same league in my experience.



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[Cuppa]

Hi Cuppa .
So you're saying 2 x Itechs , supposedly rated at 120Ah each are rated 200Ah combined ? Just wondering where you're basing this maths off ?

My Itech runs circles around my previous 105Ah full river, which is a good brand and ran great distance on its own. Sometimes a full day or 2 after the Full river AGM dropped to dangerous number , the lithium kept laughing at it. It goes well beyond the so called 120 "AGM" amp hours.
Charging and long distance running, they are not even in the same league in my experience.



Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

What I am saying is that many of the cheaper lithium drop in batteries claim higher capacity than they actually have. (Just like many cheap solar panels are actually less than advertised). It's ok if the price is right & you know what you are getting, but it's wrong that shonky sellers can get away with it. Itech included. If the 120Ah lithium is actually 100Ah then 2x120Ah is 200Ah. (Plenty of commentary on this on forums across the 'net', plus the battery place I bought my new batteries from yesterday said the same thing, even though they sell lithium drop ins, the told me with my usage pattern they would not recommend them. When I asked why, they confirmed what I already believed).

With 200Ah of lithium you get around ..say 180Ah of useable capacity for a purchase price , in the case of iTech for a bit under $1600.

I bought 360 Ah of Agm's which give me a useable capacity of around 180Ah (if I wanted to use that much) for $1020.

If I did use that much I would still expect to get 6 or 7 years out of them

If my Agm's last me the 10 years I just got out of the old ones (including 4 years full time use), then the cost over 10 years is $1020 or $102 per year.
If I bought itech 120's & their internal BMS lasted 4 years & I replaced them each four years at the same cost they would cost me around $4800 for 12 years or $400 per year - essentially 4 times the cost to do the same thing.

However if the weight saving & faster recharge is worth that to someone - a valid purchase decision.
For me I don't need to use 180Ah daily , not even half that - I don't use anything with large current draw, (not that most of the drop ins can sustain the high current draw that external BMS lithium systems can) so cannot justify the lithiums. My solar system returns my AGMs to float every day, so faster charging has no value to me. Weight reduction would be nice if the cost was closer to AGM's.

At the end of the day if your usage justifies what lithium offers & you are happy then it's a good outcome. A 100Ah lithium battery will have close to double the useable capacity of a 100Ah AGM. Enough to get you over the weekend & then home to recharge. Cost aside, the lithium drop ins make sense in that situation, particularly when there is insufficient space for more batteries. Usage pattern is everything. What is needed for a weekend camping trip is completely different to what is needed for indefinite usage without need for mains power re-charging.

I am by no means anti lithium, I always said that when my old batteries died I would change to lithium, but away from home, on the road it was pragmatic & cost effective to replace like for like. As said the anecdotal evidence is that it is the BMS which fails rendering a 'good' battery cactus with the drop ins & tends to happen at around the 4 year mark. Going with 'non drop in lithium, means additional costs of changed chargers etc making overall costs far higher than drop ins, & more complexity in the change-over process - but comes with the far longer lifespan possible with lithium.

[threedogs]

Swapped out the glow plugs on the mighty GU
I brought Bosch ones that were advertised @ $36 dollars or make an offer
so I offered $26 and they accepted......, thats a good deal in my books
Jobs to do oil and filters....fit new steering damper
... and fit Ctex dc2dc charger

[Yeti's Beast]

Replaced the auxiliary batteries in the pod. One of the 3 Ritar 120Ah AGM’s failed, placing the other two under stress in the cloudy weather FNQ has been getting. At a tad under 10 years old they have done well, but obviously all had reduced capacity which became increasingly noticeable after more than one cloudy day in a row. We were up on the Cape at Laura for the aboriginal dance festival, intending to continue north, but instead drove back down to Mareeba to get batteries (& to get a split in a welded seam of our main water tank plastic welded. Tank needed to come out to get the batteries out - so two birds with one stone. Bought Ritar batteries again. Considered Lithium ‘drop In’ replacements but would have cost me double, & I don’t trust the built in BMS in most drop ins. When it fails ( which anecdotally seems to be at around the 4 year mark) the Lithium battery becomes a door stop (sorry to all the satisfied iTech (& similar) owners, but $800 or thereabouts for 4 years vs $340 for 10 years for good quality AGM’s is a no brainer for me despite the weight penalty). 360Ah for $1020 & a ‘useable capacity comparable to 200Ah of Lithium (200Ah is not a typo, but a more ‘truthful’ capacity of 2x iTech ‘120’Ah batteries). If we were at home with the resources of my workshop changing to a ‘proper’ external BMS Lithium system with a new dc to dc battery charger /solar reg would have been a consideration, but simpler & cheaper to stick with what I have with the aim to get back up the Cape asap.

Spoke with the rep from Enerdrive today and they have made alterations to their Lithium range. Now the battery comes apart if a cell or BMS dies. The down side is now the battery is no longer water proof but upside is they are now repairable


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[Cuppa]

Spoke with the rep from Enerdrive today and they have made alterations to their Lithium range. Now the battery comes apart if a cell or BMS dies. The down side is now the battery is no longer water proof but upside is they are now repairable



If Enerdrive drop ins can be charged with existing battery chargers without a specific lithium charging profile, & with replaceable BMS & cells at reasonable cost I reckon that is a real game changer in the market, and the resulting increase in buyer confidence could well see the market share of Enerdrive (& any other drop in manufacturer who follows suit) increase dramatically, attracting more ‘replacement’ buyers, as well as those who would have bought ‘custom’ lithium packs.

[Hodge]

If I bought itech 120's & their internal BMS lasted 4 years & I replaced them each four years at the same cost they would cost me around $4800 for 12 years or $400 per year - essentially 4 times the cost to do the same thing.


Again, where is this 4 year apparent life-span of the BMS coming from? I don't think the 120X has even been on the market for 4 years to my knowledge? What kills them? Usage? Heat? Corrugations? Lack of use? Wrongly charged?
Not questioning you, just wondering from a "concerned owner of one of them batteries , point of view" .

Personally, I believe, the way these lithium's are heading, say in 4 years time the prices will be a lot different... And the other chemistries used in vehicles will be close to being dinosaurs. When I bought my Optima the other week, having a quick chat with the bloke in the battery shop about Patrols, 12V and batteries, he mentioned things are swaying that way really quick... Good or bad? Time will tell.
Look back 4 years from now. Seeing a lithium in a 4x4 was a unicorn, met with a lot of "WoW' and "Whoasss". Look at the market now. Every company is flogging them out now. And one would like to think that they're getting better and improving .

But like you said, whatever works for each individuals purpose.
I sat on the "lithium vs. AGM" fence for ages. What made me pull the trigger was seeing my mates 2 x 120 itechs perform over a week of camping.
Albeit pricey, it was one of the best 12V decisions I ever personally made in so many aspects. Continuously watching the battery volts when camping over weekend or longer are a thing of the past now.

[Cuppa]

Again, where is this 4 year apparent life-span of the BMS coming from? I don't think the 120X has even been on the market for 4 years to my knowledge? What kills them? Usage? Heat? Corrugations? Lack of use? Wrongly charged?
Not questioning you, just wondering from a "concerned owner of one of them batteries , point of view" .

Personally, I believe, the way these lithium's are heading, say in 4 years time the prices will be a lot different... And the other chemistries used in vehicles will be close to being dinosaurs. When I bought my Optima the other week, having a quick chat with the bloke in the battery shop about Patrols, 12V and batteries, he mentioned things are swaying that way really quick... Good or bad? Time will tell.
Look back 4 years from now. Seeing a lithium in a 4x4 was a unicorn, met with a lot of "WoW' and "Whoasss". Look at the market now. Every company is flogging them out now. And one would like to think that they're getting better and improving .

But like you said, whatever works for each individuals purpose.
I sat on the "lithium vs. AGM" fence for ages. What made me pull the trigger was seeing my mates 2 x 120 itechs perform over a week of camping.
Albeit pricey, it was one of the best 12V decisions I ever personally made in so many aspects. Continuously watching the battery volts when camping over weekend or longer are a thing of the past now.

The 4 year lifespan of the built in BMS is still only anecdotal stuff. I can't warrant it as true or correct, but it is sufficient to make me wary.
LiFePo4 has been around for well over a decade now. Drop in replacements for less than half that. I can't offer more than that other than as Yeti's Beast has posted, drop in market leader (quality-wise) Enerdrive has now changed to replaceable BMS. Either this is because they have recognised a problem, have recognised people's concerns about potential problems, or both.

A chap I know builds lithium custom packs professionally believes that life of internal BMS's will be much shorter than the life of the cells for two reasons. One is many use cheap unsophisticated BMS which create a fair bit of heat in the cell balancing process & the other is that the heat has nowhere to go inside a sealed case. Electronics & heat are not a good mix. I'm no expert, but I think he knows what he is talking about (but also recognise that he has a vested interest in non drop in lithium).

10 years ago I made the decision to stick with AGM's rather than going with lithium because it involved the need for a bigger learning curve than I was prepared to make to put together & maintain my own system. There were lots of debates about what was needed or not needed. The more recent introduction of 'drop in replacements has done a great job of exploiting the market of folk who desired the attributes of Lithium by 'selling' the attributes of what people wanted without the need for the learning curve, but in doing so have often been less than honest about the relatively (compared to external BMS custom lithium packs) restricted attributes of drop ins. (Which are in some ways are still undeniably better than lead acid).

Enerdrive's recent change (also ReLion Batteries) is a positive sign that drop in lithiums are now just beginning to be what has been been promised since drop ins became a thing (ie? 12000 cycle lifespan). Similar to the introduction of LED lights - the promise of extremely long life is only now eventuating. How many of us have had short lived LED lights in the past - a result mostly of the quality of construction & 'supporting ' electronics.

My belief, which I can't support any more than I already have is that drop ins over around the past 4 years or so since they were introduced have mainly been a marketing exercise, often by unscrupulous sellers able to make unsubstantiated claims about their products. A 'first generation' of product. I am pretty sure that the next generation of lithium drop ins will match the claims made for the first & expect that consequently my next batteries will be Lithium.

[pollenface]

Got the exhaust manifold fixed I'd been meaning to book it in for the last 12 months. Can't rush these things....

[Yeti's Beast]

The 4 year lifespan of the built in BMS is still only anecdotal stuff. I can't warrant it as true or correct, but it is sufficient to make me wary.
LiFePo4 has been around for well over a decade now. Drop in replacements for less than half that. I can't offer more than that other than as Yeti's Beast has posted, drop in market leader (quality-wise) Enerdrive has now changed to replaceable BMS. Either this is because they have recognised a problem, have recognised people's concerns about potential problems, or both.

A chap I know builds lithium custom packs professionally believes that life of internal BMS's will be much shorter than the life of the cells for two reasons. One is many use cheap unsophisticated BMS which create a fair bit of heat in the cell balancing process & the other is that the heat has nowhere to go inside a sealed case. Electronics & heat are not a good mix. I'm no expert, but I think he knows what he is talking about (but also recognise that he has a vested interest in non drop in lithium).

10 years ago I made the decision to stick with AGM's rather than going with lithium because it involved the need for a bigger learning curve than I was prepared to make to put together & maintain my own system. There were lots of debates about what was needed or not needed. The more recent introduction of 'drop in replacements has done a great job of exploiting the market of folk who desired the attributes of Lithium by 'selling' the attributes of what people wanted without the need for the learning curve, but in doing so have often been less than honest about the relatively (compared to external BMS custom lithium packs) restricted attributes of drop ins. (Which are in some ways are still undeniably better than lead acid).

Enerdrive's recent change (also ReLion Batteries) is a positive sign that drop in lithiums are now just beginning to be what has been been promised since drop ins became a thing (ie? 12000 cycle lifespan). Similar to the introduction of LED lights - the promise of extremely long life is only now eventuating. How many of us have had short lived LED lights in the past - a result mostly of the quality of construction & 'supporting ' electronics.

My belief, which I can't support any more than I already have is that drop ins over around the past 4 years or so since they were introduced have mainly been a marketing exercise, often by unscrupulous sellers able to make unsubstantiated claims about their products. A 'first generation' of product. I am pretty sure that the next generation of lithium drop ins will match the claims made for the first & expect that consequently my next batteries will be Lithium.

Enerdrive now have removable lids so that replacing cells or BMS is now possible.
Evolution [emoji106]
Who knows how long Lithium will be in the market place, they have many perks but still after working in the battery industry for 30 years, call me stubborn or stupid but I think these new chargers are junk and AgM is a bullet proof way to go.
My charger is an old Boss charger. It’s a transformer type and is over 30 years old now. It will charge anything !


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[jay see]

Gave it a well deserved wash.
Brought this armor all today very happy with it, works well with little effort.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/07/39.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/07/40.jpg

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[jff45]

Added a pair of DRLs. $30 from Amazon, aluminium frame not plastic.
Switch on with alternator charge, switch off when side/headlights on.

84027

[balwayne]

Installed the roof rack and flushed the brake fluid. Then, the light bar that I ordered from 4wheelonline arrived today. I'm planning to install it next week.

[DX grunt]

I actually drove it! First time in weeks.

These days my time and energy is spent teaching 16 and 17 year olds how to drive.

This week, I've spent more time on the wrong side of the road than the correct side, and we tried to go around a roundabout anti-clockwise instead of clockwise. lol.

[Avo]

I actually drove it! First time in weeks.

These days my time and energy is spent teaching 16 and 17 year olds how to drive.

This week, I've spent more time on the wrong side of the road than the correct side, and we tried to go around a roundabout anti-clockwise instead of clockwise. lol.Good to see ya still around mate...
And sometime anti clockwise is quicker...lol

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[DX grunt]

Good to see ya still around mate...
And sometime anti clockwise is quicker...lol

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Bwhaaaaa.

Always still around. I'm a Patrol owner! Just not as much around as I used to be.

:Love to be up around Clunks post tally, but I can't lol.

Excuse the spelling mistakes, but the Goon Bag is kicking in. lol.

I'm still traumatized by you in your wellies and raincoat. PML

[Avo]

Fuck but I was on best behaviour n the welcome party....I was warned to be nice...must practice first impressions

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[Plasnart]

I'm still traumatized by you in your wellies and raincoat. PML

Location location location.

Wellies and raincoat around the farm - no worries.
Wellies and raincoat in the local park - err hmm.

:D

[Cremulator]

Cleaned out the washer bottle as it was stagnating. The thin lining of scum was being sprayed onto the windscreen and it did not smell good!
Washed the bottle and the lines out with vinegar and water and it's working again properly now [emoji106]http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/07/89.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/07/90.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/07/91.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/07/92.jpg

[jay see]

Gave both batteries a dose of 240v.

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[Hodge]

Gave both batteries a dose of 240v.

Sent from my CPH1979 using TapatalkDid they go bang ?

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[jay see]

Did they go bang ?

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using TapatalkNah mate just some maintenance.

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[jff45]

Giving it a rad flush and switching from green to red coolant. I didn’t know they did a diesel specific coolant until I recently did a search to see what Nulon was offering now.

If this stuff really lasts 8 years then this will be the last coolant change I’ll be doing to it..


84081

[MB]

Upgraded the old TD42 A/C idler bearing a coupla of days ago down in Tennant Creek thanks to Autopro Legends opening up early for us [emoji120][emoji120][emoji106][emoji106]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/08/8.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/08/9.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/08/10.jpg


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[MudRunnerTD]

Upgraded the old TD42 A/C idler bearing a coupla of days ago down in Tennant Creek thanks to Autopro Legends opening up early for us [emoji120][emoji120][emoji106][emoji106]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/08/8.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/08/9.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/08/10.jpg


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You going soft young fella??

Hurry up and get back here, you won't need that AC at Licola bid.

[MB]

Will do our absolute best Dazman, 4,700km and we’ve finally run out of road, time to turn back today and get busy [emoji123][emoji106][emoji106]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/08/11.jpg


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[MudRunnerTD]

Will do our absolute best Dazman, 4,700km and we’ve finally run out of road, time to turn back today and get busy [emoji123][emoji106][emoji106]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/08/11.jpg


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That's awesome mate. Your Ute has evolved mate. Looks great
Perfect Tourer. What rooftop tent is that?

[MB]

Queen’s Clam shell Brother, 240v CPAP semi-permanently equipped too thanks to Cuppa & Mrs Tea Touring Legends Assistance [emoji120][emoji120][emoji106][emoji106]


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[Butterbing]

fixed corning lights on the guards to come on when the blinkers are in use ,now trying to get rear wiper to work have narrowed it down i think to the brown wire !

[MB]

Left it at a Caravan Park, heard some hoons thrashing saloons a few kilometres away so took a walk to investigate ……pleasant surprise [emoji322][emoji106][emoji106]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/08/89.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/08/90.jpg

$5 tins & $6 steak sangas, win win [emoji106][emoji106]

https://youtu.be/22xNHEjAf4c


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[Cremulator]

Removed the catch can drain hose that was just resting in the engine bayhttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/08/138.jpg
and relocated another extended length into the passenger wheel arch for easier access.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/08/139.jpg

[MB]

Finally installed a shower awning/tent thingy for some privacy [emoji4]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/09/113.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/09/114.jpg

These pricks have been more than giggling at mine, rude bastards 🥲[emoji23]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/09/115.jpg


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[Plasnart]

These pricks have been more than giggling at mine, rude bastards 🥲[emoji23]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/09/115.jpg


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They won't hurt ya mate, they go for snakes. But watch out for maggies, they go for worms!! :D

[MB]

PMSL [emoji23] Great to know thanks Plassy Mate [emoji106][emoji106]
Is that how you got rid of your squirmy ring, just bent over and let the Maggies work their plucking magic [emoji1659] [emoji90][emoji23]


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[Mc4by]

Finally got around to replacing my dented rear step.

84424

84425

Didn't realise how much had to be taken off just to replace the allow step.

[gazq]

I finally updated from my old black max air compressor (12 years old!) to something with a bit more oomph! Also took the chance to bring my tyre deflation and inflation into this millennia. And yes, there will be a couple of lockers going in at a future date.

Had to add a bit of plate to the custom cargo barrier to handle the weight of that compressor! Thing weighs like 30 kilos.

84434

[Cuppa]

Today was the day for our Patrol's annual wash!

When you are full time 'on the road' & travelling mainly on dirt roads washing the car seems a little pointless. However we will now be staying in one place for the duration of the wet season & have no need to use it as we have a couple of quads & a Landcruiser ute to use. I also have a gerni at my disposal. Last year 'she' had a gerni wash, but this year she got special treatment - gerni and CT18. Woohoo! Gone (at least for now) is the 'Cape patina' & the old girl is looking surprisingly white again. Not showroom condition of course, that would be a tad namby pamby, to say nothing of pretentious, but definitely a lot whiter than she has looked for quite a while.

84439
Patrol at Moreton. Tvan will get a wash once we have moved into the station homestead.

Yesterday I had the 'repair to the repair' done on the Patrol. I'd had the swivel hubs done in Weipa last week, cost was I thought a reasonable $1440, I'd thought it might be a lot more up here on the Cape, but by the time I had driven the 130kms 'home' to Moreton Telegraph Station, the passenger side swivel hub was leaking , worse than when I'd taken it in. Sent them photos & they agreed to re-do it. Went to leave at 6:30am yesterday morning but found the battery wouldn't start the car. Cleaned terminals etc- no different. Battery was cactus (about 5 years old). Tested my jump start off the Aux batteries (at the turn of a switch) for the first time ever & it worked like a charm. Swivel hubs re-done & a new battery fitted. All good now.

[Stropp]

Finally got my patrol onto a truck for the journey back to WA, lucky I came back when I did looking at the numbers in Victoria today and I still do not have approval from SA health to drive back, I only applied for an urgent approval 5 weeks ago 😜

[AB]

Updated my control box with the new WARN GS series 12v box.

Works way better than my old one!!!

84465

[MudRunnerTD]

What was I thinking. This is killing me. The worst instructions ever. I am making shit up as I go. I'm shooting a video to so hopefully it helps the next shmuck that has a crack. The bolt package is wrong. The instructions are literally Wrong! I have raided my supply of Metric bolts more than twice.

Bloody Rhino Bar!! Bloody Hell!

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/10/88.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/10/89.jpg



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[Stropp]

Picked up the patrol from the truckie and took it home to wash it as it was covered with road grime, she looks good again.

[AB]

Finally fixed my bent door brackets and caved in front quarter panel today!

Opening the car door in crazy winds on the beach at Tassie took the door screaming into the front quarter panel and bent the crap out of it.

Lucky our warehouse guy is an ex panel beater so he brought in his tool of persuasiveness and fixed it.

Not perfect but 10 times better than what it was!

8451084509

[Stropp]

84525Gave the plastics a going over with Maguires , makes a huge difference

[MB]

Not today….but are truly chomping at the bit too to swap my little/bigger pumpkin clearing 35’s back onto the GQ finally outa full lockdown at 18:00 Friday for some VHC highest altitude breathtaking [emoji100] [emoji3590][emoji106][emoji106]
Not kidding myself though, every Muppet & their Puppets will be out this weekend sporting KTM’s with badges and vag’s, patience is a virtue Trojan’s [emoji23][emoji123][emoji106][emoji106]


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[mudski]

Drove it to work.
This is how many k’s the Patrol has done since the 1st of January this year.
Including our summer trip to Omeo > Bright > Mansfield then home.
84532


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[Hodge]

Drove it to work.
This is how many k’s the Patrol has done since the 1st of January this year.
Including our summer trip to Omeo > Bright > Mansfield then home.
84532


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkAre you warming it up for the next few weeks ? [emoji4]


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[mudski]

Are you warming it up for the next few weeks ? [emoji4]


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Trying to use the old fuel in it really. Probably a bit stale by now.

[Hodge]

Trying to use the old fuel in it really. Probably a bit stale by now.Fuel doctor. Stabilises it and cleans it.
Plus a quick run up the high country will clean it up good and proper sometime soon. [emoji106][emoji12].

Shackles and chains come off tomorrow.

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[PureCaboose]

Mounting screws for the front grill to replace the cable ties.
New alternator, 100amp.
removed the front bar and remounted winch after servicing

now I need to fix the 32-year-old wiring that is now corroding rapidly and falling apart, the copper is old, crusty and prone to snap if you look at it.

managed to snap a few plastic connectors along the way, so more work now on the list than I crossed off. sigh

Gave up for the day, made some toast.

[MB]

Charged my telephony keeping warm in a SWB TB45NA Maverick via a cigarette lighter USB modification, sweet & easy rocket ship nuffy understandable dials [emoji12][emoji106][emoji106]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/10/153.jpg


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[mudski]

Charged my telephony keeping warm in a SWB TB45NA Maverick via a cigarette lighter USB modification, sweet & easy rocket ship nuffy understandable dials [emoji12][emoji106][emoji106]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/10/153.jpg


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You outta power too? We’ve been out since 7am.


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[AB]

Finally got my winch running again!

Turns out somehow moisture got into my Albright solenoid and destroyed it damn it.

Not sure how that happened as it’s supposed to be a sealed unit.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/10/154.jpg


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[mudnut]

Yeah. Its fate is sealed...

I use proper electrical J boxes for any winch gear or driving light circuit breakers.

[Stropp]

84639[ATTACH=CONFIG]84638 new mags and toyo 285/75/16 RT tyres today, still had tread left but with how hard it is to source tyres and rising costs I bit the bullet.

[Cuppa]

Spent much of the day under the car trying to find/fix the cause of my sub tank to main tank fuel transfer system not working,

It died half way up the Old Telegraph Track. I never did trust it so had trialled emptying the 85 litre sub with a jiggler hose wen we were at home, hoping we wouldn't need to use it, but giving us a failsafe means of avoiding becoming stranded somewhere. Siphon into jerries & then siphon out of jerries into main tank. A PIA, but it worked.

At the same time the sub tank light came on the sub tank fuel gauge went to empty , when the tank was full. Found nothing whilst we were camped at Canal Creek for 3 days.

Yesterday I found one of the twin cable running from sub tank to transfer pump had been flapping about a bit & contacted the driveshaft, wearing partially through one of the two wires. Optimism rose & I cut out the damaged section & rejoined the wires with a new length. Switched on ignition & hey presto the sub tank fuel gauge went from empty to full. Taped it all up & zip tied the wires to keep them out of harms way & then re-tested. It was like I had done nothing - back to square one. Back under the car wishing I hadn't done such a good job of taping it all up. Removed tape & found three of the el cheapo ebay special spade connectors had not crimped properl due to having ultra short crimping section hidden by the insuation. Grrr. Re-did the job & triple checked the comnnections, including usining the multi meter to check continuity. Ignition on - no movement on the sub tank fuel gauge, & nothing I've ried since has changed that. Checked fuse,wiggled connections, traced wire from the tank's sender unit to the other side of the car (plastic cover over a couple of multi pin connectors roughly below the passenger door attached to the chassis) & checked continuity from there to the disconnected plug on the side of the sub tank. All good.

The sub tank warning light still comes on & the green light on the switch doesn't.

Have given up, can't think of anything else it could be other than a fault up inside the dash on a PCB. Not a job I'm going to take on.

Either it will be an auto sparky job when we eventually leave the Cape (but if things work out, that may not be for another 18 months) or I may try to bypass the car's sub tank control system & just have a manual on/off switch to operate the transfer pump. Can't imagine that would be too hard to do, but I would prefer to heve a working sub tank fuel gauge before i do that.

If anyone has any further thoughts as to what I could check I'm all ears. And yes I have disconnected the battery (multiple times). Prior to the system failing the sub tank gauge had for some time been showing about 3/4 full when it was 100% ful(?? consistent with the pump wire rubbing on the driveshaft, & wearing it away, & the sub tank lighr commomly came on if I overfilled both tanks. The latter had always been rectified by disconnecting the battery for a while once we had used a bit of fuel - a pain because disconnecting the battery would reset the trip counters. The fuel gauge not working at all was new. For the life of me I cannot understand why it worked again briefly after I repaired the transfer pump power cables. It did at least suggest to me that the fault wasnt at the sender unit in the tank end.

I used to think the designer of two hard to reach horizontal oil filters should have been given a good kicking, but now whoever thought this stupid sub tank sstem was a good idea should have been committed to an institution for the insane!

Geez & double geez!

[mudski]

Possibly shorted out the transfer pump. I have heard of this issue over the years, from memory, some just installed an aftermarket pump and wired it in. How long did you disconnect the battery for? Just reading on the interwebs someone had to leave it disconnected for an hour for it to work.

The sub tank sender units do have a level switch so when the tank is empty it will shut off the transfer pump? Might be a dodgy sender unit?

[Cuppa]

Shorted out transfer pump sounds like a possibility. Can thy short out internally? Whilst up on the Tele Track one thing I tried was running 12v direct from battery to pump. It ran, but far more slowly than I recall hearing running in the past.

Can anyone suggest any further tests I could try to determine whether the pump has or is turning it's toes up?

Can anyone point me to a suitable transfer pump which will fit into the same space to keep things nice & simple.

[Cremulator]

Try this Cuppa
Pulling fuse #24 worked to reset the sub tank warning light. It also resets the odometer, which I was hoping to avoid, but it's certainly easier than removing the negative battery cable.

From this thread "fuel system": http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?t=46132

This would allow me to reset the warning light, push the switch and have the green light come on and the pump work for 15mins to 1hr.

I haven't invested the time to try to fix mine, so the warning light is still on and I'm not using my sub tank, but I certainly don't need it like you do!

[Cuppa]

Try this Cuppa
Pulling fuse #24 worked to reset the sub tank warning light. It also resets the odometer, which I was hoping to avoid, but it's certainly easier than removing the negative battery cable.

From this thread "fuel system": http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?t=46132

This would allow me to reset the warning light, push the switch and have the green light come on and the pump work for 15mins to 1hr.

I haven't invested the time to try to fix mine, so the warning light is still on and I'm not using my sub tank, but I certainly don't need it like you do!

Had the battery disconnected overnight & have also tried the removing the 7.5A fuse as per the thread you linked too. No difference. Am thinking now it more likely to be the sub tank sender which is the problem. If so it will have to wait. I'm not up to dropping the fuel tank myself. Once all the pain & discomfort from my recent time under the car has faded away I might try hooking up the transfer pump direct to a 12v source & try pumping into a container just because it is reasonably accessible & to tell me whether it is working properly with a reasonable flow rate. The fact that it sounded like it was running slower than usual out on the track may have been due to the, at the time unseen, partially severed wire.

This control box thingo is well out of my comfort zone (& understanding), but I cant see why a failed or failing pump would cause the sub tank fuel gauge to not register anything, but I suppose anything is possible....... even a coincidence of 3 things 1. Failed or failing transfer pump 2. Failed sub tank sender unit 3. Damage (now repaired) to transfer pump wires.

One thing keeps going around in my head. When I repaired the transfer pump damaged wires the sub tank fuel gauge worked - but only once. After switching off the ignition & back on again I have been back to sub tank warning light & no fuel gauge. Seems inconsistent with a failed sub tank sender unit...... but??

Is there any way of diagnosing the sub tank sender unit without removing, & replacing/substituting? If not is sub tank removal on a Cab chassis a big job (or not) for a well equipped workshop? It's tempting to bypass the control box with a simple on/off switched transfer pump, but I need to be able to watch a gauge if I were going to do this.

Come back Yendor! (For those who didn't know him - he was the best auto electrical resource imaginable , on this forum - offering step by step diagnosis on all things to do with Patrol electrics).

[mudski]

Had the battery disconnected overnight & have also tried the removing the 7.5A fuse as per the thread you linked too. No difference. Am thinking now it more likely to be the sub tank sender which is the problem. If so it will have to wait. I'm not up to dropping the fuel tank myself. Once all the pain & discomfort from my recent time under the car has faded away I might try hooking up the transfer pump direct to a 12v source & try pumping into a container just because it is reasonably accessible & to tell me whether it is working properly with a reasonable flow rate. The fact that it sounded like it was running slower than usual out on the track may have been due to the, at the time unseen, partially severed wire.

This control box thingo is well out of my comfort zone (& understanding), but I cant see why a failed or failing pump would cause the sub tank fuel gauge to not register anything, but I suppose anything is possible....... even a coincidence of 3 things 1. Failed or failing transfer pump 2. Failed sub tank sender unit 3. Damage (now repaired) to transfer pump wires.

One thing keeps going around in my head. When I repaired the transfer pump damaged wires the sub tank fuel gauge worked - but only once. After switching off the ignition & back on again I have been back to sub tank warning light & no fuel gauge. Seems inconsistent with a failed sub tank sender unit...... but??

Is there any way of diagnosing the sub tank sender unit without removing, & replacing/substituting? If not is sub tank removal on a Cab chassis a big job (or not) for a well equipped workshop? It's tempting to bypass the control box with a simple on/off switched transfer pump, but I need to be able to watch a gauge if I were going to do this.

Come back Yendor! (For those who didn't know him - he was the best auto electrical resource imaginable , on this forum - offering step by step diagnosis on all things to do with Patrol electrics).

Yes Yendor aka Rodney was, well still is, a god at this stuff.

To rule out the pump, can you "hard wire" power to the pump to see if its working? Then atleast you know if its the pump or something else. use some twin core wire direct from the battery and to the pump...

[Hodge]

Cuppa
Could this be the switch itself in the cab?
I recall @the evil twin (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/member.php?43-the-evil-twin) once talking about the switch being a culprit in many sub-tank issues.

[MB]

Dust/moisture compounded cement like overload in my beloved very first 2000 GU leafy work ute sub tank dash switch was the culprit. Apologies if I haven’t read properly symptoms above but many early working GU’s I’ve known too also changed to aftermarket manual ON/OFF pump switches which unfortunately do take highway concentration to turn off again when visually transferred but faithful +\-


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[Cuppa]

Cuppa
Could this be the switch itself in the cab?
I recall @the evil twin (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/member.php?43-the-evil-twin) once talking about the switch being a culprit in many sub-tank issues.
.
Anything is possible. Could be more than one problem? I have decided that the first priority is to get the sub tank fuel gauge working again. Could be some time before that happens though - no auto sparkies around here - might have to wait until the end of the Wet. Rains have started. Can manage with a single tank for the time being.

Finished fitting two new rear cameras & a monitor today. The old ones had become unreliable after almost 10 years & lots of corrugations. Fitted a 30 degree rear vision camera for driving (https://www.nassecurity.com.au/30-viewing-angle-sharp-ccd-caravan-rear-view-camera-model-r-cs212b-or-r-cs212w.html & a tiny 170 degree one (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/183696421838) pointed at the tow hitch to assist with hitching up. A new 'mirror monitor' made up the package.

One job left to do (excluding the subtank issue - arthritis makes under car work increasingly difficult). After 10 years of use our hot water system has developed a leak, cause is a lime scale build from all the outback 'hard' water in the tempering valve assembly. Replacement on it's way, hopefully on this Wednesday's mail plane. A messy job which will be good to get out of the way. We got by for a couple of months by bypassing the hot water system, but Mrstea does like having hot water. After that the car will be stored on (relatively) high ground to hopefully avoid the flooding when the Wenlock breaks it's banks.

This is where we are. On the northern bank of the Wenlock, just the two of us at Moreton Telegraph Station.

84647

[pollenface]

Changed the transmission filter

84648
84649
84650

[Brissieboy]

.
After 10 years of use our hot water system has developed a leak, cause is a lime scale build from all the outback 'hard' water in the tempering valve assembly. Replacement on it's way, hopefully on this Wednesday's mail plane. A messy job which will be good to get out of the way.

You can fix that calcium buildup easily with descaler (as used to descale kitchen kettles etc). The valve will almost certainly be perfect except for that buildup hindering its operation. I have done this on domestic hot water systems a couple of times.

[jay see]

Picked it up from the beaters last night all clean and shiny. Left work just after the down pour and now it needs a wash.[emoji17]

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[mudski]

Picked it up from the beaters last night all clean and shiny. Left work just after the down pour and now it needs a wash.[emoji17]

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What was it in there for?

[jay see]

Slight argument with a tree while I was on the high country trip earlier this year. Which was 4 weeks after I got it back from the kangaroo argument. No more arguing for me.

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[Stropp]

Fitted up the new grooved and dimpled rotors and pads on all corners

[Hodge]

Fresh oil , fresh filters all 'round. Gave the engine bay a wash , dry and a good coat of CRC.

The starter motor , radius arm and diff are seasoned again.
Those who changed TD filters before , will understand. [emoji1787]

Drivetrain oils later today.

Sent using Pixel 6

[Hodge]

Got a set of fresh new shoes fitted. Mickey ATZ P3's, in 33". Identical like-for-like rubber to what was on the car for the last nearly 80k. Absolutely loved the tyres so, it was a no brainer to get a fresh set of same same. What I cannot believe is how smooth the car is now on road after they were fitted and everything was aligned.
The little bit of 85-90 wobble that was there is now entirely ironed out. On the highway the car is so so smooth! Absolutely stoked !!

84689

[PeeBee]

Sat thru 2 hours of BIG TED GOES TO THE ZOO instead of fiddling on the beast - what we do to keep the peace with the grandkids.

[MB]

Baby TB45 SWB Maverick and I both totally crapped our nappies in the local Hills today [emoji24]
Two trucks approaching at circa 80kmph each with a huge line of traffic behind them city bound just after the big climb out of our valley.
First truck lost a trailer spare tyre from underneath which kicked his entire empty arse end out of control with full cudos to the next trailing tandem/trailer Legend for dodging the chaos instantly [emoji120][emoji120][emoji106][emoji106]
FWIW: Not one, yes not #1, farkstick SUV driver helped drag shit off the road to help their fellow/follow acquaintances enroute to Starbucks [emoji23]


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[MB]

It’s gunna finally hit a steady 25C with above 50% humidity again in the Mexicano hills next week. Luckily squeezed in a late city holidays forthcoming booking for both Y60’s for some A/C gas bubble windows clearing desperately noticed needed [emoji23]


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[Cuppa]

It’s gunna finally hit a steady 25C with above 50% humidity again in the Mexicano hills next week. Luckily squeezed in a late city holidays forthcoming booking for both Y60’s for some A/C gas bubble windows clearing desperately noticed needed [emoji23]



High 30's & 40% to 90% humidity here. Need full gas windows here, especially in the tractor sitting in a mobile greenhouse.

[MB]

You’re a much stronger Tropical Team up there than I sooky wet pants down here Cuppa Tea Mates [emoji106][emoji106]
12 months only myself many years ago on the tools in FNQ and I’m still recovering from kneecap rear/forearm-pit rash syndrome [emoji23]


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[BrazilianY60]

What is this gas windows you guys mention?

[MB]

Hopefully/should be too on your OS variant Beast BZ Mate, a little half matchbox sized block that has a glass eyeball roughly 10mm diameter window for bubble checking? Follow your A/C lines up & around and maybe near the radiator top IIRC [emoji2957]


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[MB]

1989 Y60 (Ford Australian Maverick) has its Eyeball here [emoji12]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/66.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/67.jpg

Shed Queeny 1999 Y61 my apologies has its eyeball IIRC up high on drivers (Aussie RH) side near radiator front/top [emoji1696] [emoji23]

EDIT: 1989 model Ford

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[MB]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/68.jpg


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[BrazilianY60]

Oh, that. I don't have one separate like yours but the A/C dry filter (of whatever it is called) does have that inspection lens.

[PeeBee]

Finally found time to fit the 150w in-line fuel heater to the beast. Its located before the fuel filter, comes with a complete wiring loom and simple to install, 5/16" barbs. Just need to nip the body bolts up as the gasket was weeping. Can't feel the unit heating up which I suppose if expected to some degree as there is 7LPHR at idle going thru it. Hope this will improve the snow camping gell issues experienced previously, even with the winter anti gell additive.8486084861

Update - heater being replaced under warrany, leaking out if cables, to will update on performance when new one is installed

[Cuppa]

Whilst most of you have been out buying the last minute Christmas pressies, stuffing the turkey, trying on your Santa suit or whatever you do on Chrismas eve I have finally , at last , fixed the damn leak from my windscreen washer bottle. I kid you not it has been a mission. Anything that could happen to make the job 100 times more difficult that it should have been happened,. It was a mission & a test of my resolve. But it's done, it works & it doesn't leak any more . Hoo bloody ray. I never want to do anything to it again other than pour water into it.

The leak, as it turned out was via the seal(s) inside the pump itself, & a new pump fixed it. I bought the aftermarket pump from Patrolapart. Brand is 'Nice'

3 main problems
1. Getting the washer bottle in & out - numerous times with all the wires & cables that are in the way . If you are fitting any new electrics etc at any time bear that in mind.
2. Getting the nissan plug & pump separated - especially difficult because of 1. above, but also because the original plug has been a bit chewed over it's lifetime & is an absolute bugger to move without pulling the pump out. And * very* tight going into the new pump. Total relief when it worked & I knew I didn't have to separate it again. If it ever has to come apart again I'll cut the wires & re-join them
3. Broke the locating rubber which holds the washer bottle to the front wheel arch 'cos I didn't know it was there. A labour of love followed fashioning another from a couple of different sizes of rubber tubing & then shaping the outer one to fit.

[jay see]

Was last week.

Had it booked in for a tappet adjustment last Thursday. Turned out it when in on the back of a towie.
Lost one alternator belt on the way to work in the morning and when I started it after leaving early to get it there before they closed, it made a terrible noise while I was looking at it the second belt let go.

Just made it before they closed. As I got out of the towie my phone fell and of course it landed face down smashes the screen, after replacing it a month ago. My wife was meant to pick me up on the main road. I can hear the phone ring ,but can't answer it, she was at the panel beaters instead of the mechanics. It was a looong day.

On the Friday I get a call from the mechanic saying they think there is more to it then just tappet adjustment and they want to do a full diagnostic on Monday. Ok call me on Monday with what you find.

The weekend was filled with what ifs. Received the call during the day on Monday and it turns out that it was just a tappet adjustment.

All running super smooth and sweet again.



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[jay see]

Used it as a whacker.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/95.jpg

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[jay see]

Twicehttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/96.jpg

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[mudski]

Changed the oil even though it had done around 2000k since last service.
Letting the oil drain overnight made removing the two oil filters a lot less messy. If you’ve change TD oil filters before you know what I mean.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/104.jpg


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[jff45]

Changed the oil even though it had done around 2000k since last service.
Letting the oil drain overnight made removing the two oil filters a lot less messy. If you’ve change TD oil filters before you know what I mean.

Ah, but its only messy if you dont make a little drip tray for the filters with a drain pipe that goes behind the starter :)


84889

[mudski]

Ah, but its only messy if you dont make a little drip tray for the filters with a drain pipe that goes behind the starter :)


84889

Bit easier if you have the motor out on a stand. [emoji38] in all seriousness though, almost nothing came out when I removed the filters so I was pretty happy with that.


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[Hodge]

Ah, but its only messy if you dont make a little drip tray for the filters with a drain pipe that goes behind the starter :)

I never ended up getting this tray from that chicken bloke on the other forum. But was meaning to... Also what a nightmare to install unless motor is on the bench.


in all seriousness though, almost nothing came out when I removed the filters so I was pretty happy with that.


What black magic is this?! Bang Head:smileyvault-cute-bi
No matter how long I leave it draining out it's always the same. If I look at the internals of the filter, there will always be a pool of oil within it, that cant drain out unless you tilt the car 90 degrees onto the passenger side. And always wooshes out right at that final thread turn of the filter....

[jff45]

Bit easier if you have the motor out on a stand. [emoji38] in all seriousness though, almost nothing came out when I removed the filters so I was pretty happy with that.


Much easier.. I was advised to make it while I was doing the conversion and almost didn't because I was getting a bit impatient to get the engine in. Glad I took the time to do it..

[jff45]

I never ended up getting this tray from that chicken bloke on the other forum. But was meaning to... Also what a nightmare to install unless motor is on the bench.


I was advised that the 'chicken' one didn't always fit depending on which starter motor you had. Mine was a big aftermarket starter so I made one from some scrap colorbond guttering and pop rivets.

[mudski]

I never ended up getting this tray from that chicken bloke on the other forum. But was meaning to... Also what a nightmare to install unless motor is on the bench.



What black magic is this?! Bang Head:smileyvault-cute-bi
No matter how long I leave it draining out it's always the same. If I look at the internals of the filter, there will always be a pool of oil within it, that cant drain out unless you tilt the car 90 degrees onto the passenger side. And always wooshes out right at that final thread turn of the filter....

Dunno what to say mate. Literally not much more than a spoonful came out.


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[Dasa]

Few things that didn't all happen in a day.
Been a year and a half since I flushed some seriously chunky rust out of the rad and the coolant was brown again so once again I left it a bit late.

Cut a large Titan fridge slide to size and mounted it on some gate hinges for some tilt.
848988489984900


Replaced some gas struts to stop the sides on the camper falling on my head and made them a little longer on the kitchen side to give my head a little more clearance when up which is a stop gap to getting some new springs in the rear of the old coil cab.

Took the old girl down Warrnambool and set up camp on a dairy farm where it was ~10c cooler than back home in northern vic.
84901
Water was borderline boiling point on the way home with the ambient nearing only 40c I had to turn the AC off a few times to keep it under the first max temp line while going up some hills.
The EGT going from the usual 250-300 to 300-375 post turbo was still ok.
It was interesting turning the AC on while rolling down a hill in second you could actually feel the ute lurch as it cut in.

Also been in contact with WolfBox about some intermittent gremlins with my rear view camera and they have been excellent to deal with sending me out a replacement right away and then asking if I would like to send them some video of the old units touch screen problems.
They seem keen to improve there product and are looking into what went wrong with mine.

[Stropp]

I was advised that the 'chicken' one didn't always fit depending on which starter motor you had. Mine was a big aftermarket starter so I made one from some scrap colorbond guttering and pop rivets.

Yep I fitted an after market starter and had to take mine off, but good news is I still have it to fit to the new patrol ��

[Stropp]

84950
Fitted the new twin wheel carrier, one wheel rack to go

[AB]

Sounds simple but I just replaced my 90 elbow from turbo to IC as I noticed a split in it.

Simple job but no.

I think we need to document the procedures sometimes on our mods as I forgot on my original install that that pipe twists there, that join down the line comes off to do that, etc.

I had a flash back from my troubleshooting days of the turbo issue I had and remembered the sequence of removal and life was good lol

All good now but if I didn’t remember that sequence then god help someone else doing this!


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[MB]

Apologies Bro, that Swiss Army knife for Mia’s Chrissy Prez was a BAD idea [emoji22]


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[Cuppa]

During our last few weeks travelling we had no hot water. Not exactly a crisis, but MrsTea has been accustomed to turning on a tap for hot water to wash up with. Putting the billy on works but is far less convenient. The tempering valve assembly of our engine heated hot water system needed replacing. The parts probably could have been bought in Australia, but direct replacement from the hot water service's manufacturer in the UK would save a plumbing nightmare in limited space. As it was, the entire kitchen needed to be removed from the canopy to give access to remove part of the insulation box in which the hot water service is. All very well but it took ages. I knew I had built everything to come apart if necessary but that was 10 years ago & working out what needed to come apart & in what order was a 3 dimensional jigsaw & took several hours of trial & error. Once apart, replacing the tempering valve & pressure relief valve assembly was pretty straight forward, but I learned that I really hadn't needed the entire assembly, but couldn't have known that until everything was apart. So have replaced the lot with the new assembly (about $200 total) & now have a spare assembly should the same issue arise in the future). Putting everything back was far quicker than dismantling, & to my surprise everything went back in & fitted well - not bad for a farmshed build which followed the 'make it up as you go along'' philosophy.

It was a job that had haunted the early hours of my mornings for a while, but really the hardest part was starting. Once that hurdle was over the rest was relatively simple. I have to say that I was actually quite impressed with my 'design skills'. :)

For newer forum members unfamiliar with our set up - what we have is 22 litre marine calorifier - essentially a donkey boiler in an insulated copper tank with engine coolant system extended into the canopy, where it runs through a coil inside the tank & heats fresh water to the same temperature as the engine coolant. The tempering valve automatically adds cold water according to the temperature set with an adjusting knob, meaning we can adjust output temperature for say washing up or hair washing or showering. It's a great system & the second vehicle we have used this style of hws in. From cold 20 to 30 minutes driving gives hot enough water for a shower, we always have hot water on arrival at a camp & it stays hot for up to 3 days without needing to run the engine. (If we stay longer we generally have a camp fire & the billy is always on). It also has a 240v 1000w electric element in the tank, but we have only ever used that once just to see how well it worked.

Anyway, all back together, & no longer leaking. Hopefully another 10 years before I need to look at it again!

[jay see]

When I got the new winch (runva) it came with a thinble. I prefer to use my old hook which meant I needed a hammerlock, easy not..

Being the impatient dick that I sometimes am, I was meant to swap out the fairlead from the old faded one to a new shiny runva one. Instead I fitted the hammerlock and hook, took up the slack on the rope and job done, until the old fairlead was staring me straight in the face. F@#k..

Is it possible to remove and refit the hammerlock. I don't think I can as the pin locks in with a spring load collar..

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[Winnie]

Unwind all the rope off the drum and re attach it from the drum end.

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[jay see]

Unwind all the rope off the drum and re attach it from the drum end.

Sent from my SM-G986B using TapatalkCheers Winnie..

Yep, I can do that, but it will have to be a day when I can be f@#ked doing it.

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[nissannewby]

When I got the new winch (runva) it came with a thinble. I prefer to use my old hook which meant I needed a hammerlock, easy not..

Being the impatient dick that I sometimes am, I was meant to swap out the fairlead from the old faded one to a new shiny runva one. Instead I fitted the hammerlock and hook, took up the slack on the rope and job done, until the old fairlead was staring me straight in the face. F@#k..

Is it possible to remove and refit the hammerlock. I don't think I can as the pin locks in with a spring load collar..

Sent from my CPH1921 using Tapatalk

You can re-use them. Just make sure you push the pin through in the direction the arrow indicates on the hammer lock. There is usually an arrow on the locking collar in the middle of the hammer lock.

[PeeBee]

Took the barge down to the a/c joint, it had lost 500g of gas, out of 1.2kg, so looks like a fitting is not on right or a hose connection decided to leak or whatever - who knows. Got them to add for goo to see if they can clogg up the hole, on the basis it will go back in on say may/june when its less busy for them. Bit annoyed, but take it on the chin I guess.

[BillsGU]

They can put a UV dye in with the gas and any leak, however small, can be seen with a black light.

[PeeBee]

They can put a UV dye in with the gas and any leak, however small, can be seen with a black light.

Thanks Bill, yes they did that however nothing showed up. I have now purchased a UV torch for that process. Some of the hoses and fittings are buried beneath layers of other stuff, hence its difficult to see a leak without some disassembly. I will do these over the next couple of days to see if I can find the leak myself, which will make any subsequent visit cheaper.

[VK2FMIA]

Sent the Trol off for a bit of surgery. Injection Pump needs to be replaced as a sensor has sh!t itself. Should be done in a couple of days.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/01/163.jpg

Sent from my campfire using smoke signals.

[Plasnart]

Sent the Trol off for a bit of surgery. Injection Pump needs to be replaced as a sensor has sh!t itself. Should be done in a couple of days.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/01/163.jpg

Sent from my campfire using smoke signals.

Good luck mate but can l ask WTF is the need for a dual cab tow truck? Does he take the wife and kids with him during school holidays? :D

[MudRunnerTD]

Good luck mate but can l ask WTF is the need for a dual cab tow truck? Does he take the wife and kids with him during school holidays? :D

its actually a great idea. on a Break Down he could take more than just the driver if there is other passengers. Not sure if there is Laws restricting this though??

[MB]

Pre-Covid towie rules you’d be able to cart a stranded family of 4 maybe 5 back into town along with their caravan on tow if hitch equipped behind too maybe Plassy Mate?


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[Plasnart]

its actually a great idea. on a Break Down he could take more than just the driver if there is other passengers. Not sure if there is Laws restricting this though??


Pre-Covid towie rules you’d be able to cart a stranded family of 4 maybe 5 back into town along with their caravan on tow if hitch equipped behind too maybe Plassy Mate?


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We need a face palm emoji. So bloody obvious haha! Thanks gents.

:1087::1062::animierte-sm:icon_victory:

[MB]

Don’t feel bad Plassy, we do come from an era where riding in the back of our parents Valiant atop of a drunken towie single cab truck was completely the norman gunston [emoji23][emoji106][emoji106]


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[VK2FMIA]

Good luck mate but can l ask WTF is the need for a dual cab tow truck? Does he take the wife and kids with him during school holidays? :DCheers Plassy.

Sent from my campfire using smoke signals.

[Stropp]

Took him in and had the tail lights in the rear bar connected with Deutsche plugs for easy removal and replacement if needed and a wire for future use for number plate light, I’ve ordered some motorcycle light bolts same as I had on the other patrol. Also dropped the new second battery in, hopefully late more than one day now 😊

[Mickhead]

Good luck mate but can l ask WTF is the need for a dual cab tow truck? Does he take the wife and kids with him during school holidays? :D


He has come fully prepared to hook up a second broken Patrol to his towbar and accomodate the passengers 😂😂😂

[VK2FMIA]

He has come fully prepared to hook up a second broken Patrol to his towbar and accomodate the passengers [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]The money he charged you would think he was towing 2 vehicles.[emoji52]

Sent from my campfire using smoke signals.

[Stropp]

Packed up ready for camping at feral flats, doggies favourite camping spot 😋

[Cremulator]

I removed the acc socket in the rear cargo area and replaced it with a Narva amp meter. These single amp meters are on clearance from Repco for $16.
I had not used this socket once in the almost 3 years I have had it installed, so the amp meter will be more useful in it's space to monitor how much the fridge is drawing.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/01/178.jpg

[Stropp]

Replaced my electric antenna insert that I broke on the feral flats trip, old age I forgot to drop it prior to doing the bush tracks, what a mission, had to remove the whole thing from the inner guard and then dismantle the motor and remove the tube the antenna sits in as even though the instructions say you can push it into the top, there is a small lip that prevents you doing that so after a struggle managed to remove the tube and feed the new one up and then set the gear teeth on the retractor and reassemble the motor then test prior to reinstall in the guard, surprisingly it works �� I forgot to take pictures

[Avo]

Replaced my electric antenna insert that I broke on the feral flats trip, old age I forgot to drop it prior to doing the bush tracks, what a mission, had to remove the whole thing from the inner guard and then dismantle the motor and remove the tube the antenna sits in as even though the instructions say you can push it into the top, there is a small lip that prevents you doing that so after a struggle managed to remove the tube and feed the new one up and then set the gear teeth on the retractor and reassemble the motor then test prior to reinstall in the guard, surprisingly it works ������ I forgot to take picturesLeft it in the shed didn't let stropp drive it

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[MB]

Finally installed the GQ ute front Superior-Engineering drop down sway bar version today:

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/02/17.jpg

Forgot I must’ve ordered the linkage disconnect ends as well but not sure I’ll end up keeping them on at this stage as the light removable pins each side worry me a tad for strength/snagging and I’m a pussy when it comes to flexing completely off angle sideways on our hilltop tracks.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/02/18.jpg

Reason for this purchase a while ago now was due to my Black-Hawk high clearance radius arms unbeknownst at the time do not work with an OEM sway bar configuration, albeit only a tiny bit bent but has been gouging a groove in my front tailshaft off-road with down travel found:

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/02/19.jpg

Forklift made light work solo too for swapping new coils over front & rear:

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/02/20.jpg

Trialling Dobinsons C45-108 in the fronts, 75mm lift with 60-100kg linear rate constant load there & C45-325T in the utes rear with 150-250kg linear rate constant load back there. Airbag Man 3” rear kit has now gone down to only needing around 5-10 psi in them fully test loaded with tools & tucker but an empty near 300L diesel storage capacity capability is still below if touring/work needed[emoji1696][emoji1696]


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[Rossco]

Sway bar looks way fatter than standard Nissan setup, have you had much of a chance to see how she goes in the corners reckon Nissan one's are near on useless lol. . .

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[MB]

Only a quick 5 minute spin around town so far Rossco but felt positively different for sure. Can’t make any comment on the front sway bar as yet but upgrading the rear springs from C45-123VT 200kg variable rate constant load feels shiploads less boaty now full of tools at under 10psi running upwards of 40-50 psi kevlar bagged floating on air only previously.


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[Plasnart]

Only a quick 5 minute spin around town so far Rossco but felt positively different for sure. Can’t make any comment on the front sway bar as yet but upgrading the rear springs from C45-123VT 200kg variable rate constant load feels shiploads less boaty now full of tools at under 10psi running upwards of 40-50 psi kevlar bagged floating on air only previously.


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Grouse when you get springs to do suspension, not ask airbags to do suspension coz they dont. Work your springs; airbags just transfer force to chassis. ;) IMO

[MB]

For Sure Plassy Mate [emoji106][emoji106] Personally not a fan either of airbag assisting leafy utes and the like as they definitely apply pressure on OEM unexpected points. Patrol coily rears (all variants- wagons/utes) as we all hopefully know do need their tower tops aftermarket braced to handle real world usage and proper GVM upgrades of old first modifications. Inside coil type airbags on properly braced GQ/GU’s are great I believe, it’s just a case of as you wisely say having the correct coils doing their job with airbags as a backup for changing loads/unloads.
BTW: How many dozen slabs (Vic only) cartons (Australia wide) would one need to cross the Nulla most inland Brother [emoji120][emoji120][emoji23]


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[Plasnart]

For Sure Plassy Mate [emoji106][emoji106] Personally not a fan either of airbag assisting leafy utes and the like as they definitely apply pressure on OEM unexpected points. Patrol coily rears (all variants- wagons/utes) as we all hopefully know do need their tower tops aftermarket braced to handle real world usage and proper GVM upgrades of old first modifications. Inside coil type airbags on properly braced GQ/GU’s are great I believe, it’s just a case of as you wisely say having the correct coils doing their job with airbags as a backup for changing loads/unloads.
BTW: How many dozen slabs (Vic only) cartons (Australia wide) would one need to cross the Nulla most inland Brother [emoji120][emoji120][emoji23]


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Under no circumstance would I install airbags, even after towing 3T trailer/350kg ball weight loads, but that's just my opinion. Let the (upgraded) springs load up and do the work, not the chassis. And yes tower braces installed for sure. Many people have differing opinions but I'll stick with mine thanks.
As for slabs per outback mile......generally more economical than normal. Whatever you can handle nightly with an early rollout over say 3 weeks is my packing list. Generally leave the big glugging to shorter trips or weekend pissups!

[MB]

Fair Call Brother [emoji182][emoji3590][emoji106][emoji106]
Probably best if I explain to witnesses here though that the Old GQ Grandpa is trying to keep a lower profile all over Australia. Outback NSW 2.5T donga hauls, 1.5T little NT Kanga hauls, Tassie thousand dollar track smashing and then back home mountain VHC crawling. Call me lazy but I can’t be stuffed popping different coily springs in and out again for heavy highway run all rounders [emoji23][emoji106][emoji106]


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[Plasnart]

Fair Call Brother [emoji182][emoji3590][emoji106][emoji106]
Probably best if I explain to witnesses here though that the Old GQ Grandpa is trying to keep a lower profile all over Australia. Outback NSW 2.5T donga hauls, 1.5T little NT Kanga hauls, Tassie thousand dollar track smashing and then back home mountain VHC crawling. Call me lazy but I can’t be stuffed popping different coily springs in and out again for heavy highway run all rounders [emoji23][emoji106][emoji106]


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Fair enough too but I've never felt the need to change suspension for empty vs loaded applications once I upgraded. King springs (can't remember off the top of my head which ones) and Koni Raid shockers. Have been more than happy empty and loaded (especially).

[MB]

Have you ever experienced the deadly kangaroo bounce up a rocky track unladen Plassy Brother, hoping not [emoji120][emoji120]


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[Plasnart]

Have you ever experienced the deadly kangaroo bounce up a rocky track unladen Plassy Brother, hoping not [emoji120][emoji120]


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Being a wagon with stuff, tools and drawers in the back, no. I guess an unladen cab chassis might get hoppy?

I've guffed on other threads before about the "pull back" factor of the Koni Raids. They are unbelievable for ceasing and desisting any wayward suspension rhythms but high speed touring is their bread and butter.

[10G]

had a real bad grinding noise the other day, like when you clean out a wheel bearing, dry it out, don't add grease and spin it. no sticks stuck underneath. Slowed down and turned intoa parking spot. As i turned I heard a clunck and the noise went away. No stick on the road, no extra stones, dunno. Gone now anyway. Reckon it might have been a stone stuck in the brake rotor or similar. Dunno.

[MB]

A quick mountain skirt windy cut through to major highway test run for a pub lunch on the new springs and front sway bar mods with very minimal airbag assistance only half loaded for work.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/02/23.jpg

Loving Dobinsons for their more reasonably priced gear that hasn’t failed me yet [emoji1696][emoji106][emoji106]


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[MB]

Upgraded the old TD42 A/C idler bearing a coupla of days ago down in Tennant Creek thanks to Autopro Legends opening up early for us [emoji120][emoji120][emoji106][emoji106]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/08/8.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/08/9.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/08/10.jpg


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Wanker quoting my own post but unhappy with a guesstimated only 10-15,000kms lasted on a HCH-American (China) bearing. The Team up at Tennant Creek - Autopro are Legends and helped get me out of the uncomfortable cab heat shit but I’ll be searching for an NGK- Japanesey bearing as soon as I’ve released this screaming 35C NSW border summer squirrel again [emoji883][emoji23]


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[PeeBee]

Sure to be an SKF/NTN variant avail Mark. You might try to validate the range of bearing speeds this unit sees. Is the unit a sealed for life or requires some grease input from time to time, and if so, how with your assy? My under bonnet temps used to sit around the 80 deg mark before I did the airflow cooling mods and its dropped to circa 65DegC from memory - running temp will be a consideration for the life and internal clearances or 'class' of the bearing. Being mounted to the block will also see that heat soak you have to contend with. Maybe the one you got was dimensionally correct, just not to the right duty?

[MB]

Thanks Philstar, I’ll have to download a manual here to see what Nissan OE specified.


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[BrazilianY60]

Wanker quoting my own post but unhappy with a guesstimated only 10-15,000kms lasted on a HCH-American (China) bearing. The Team up at Tennant Creek - Autopro are Legends and helped get me out of the uncomfortable cab heat shit but I’ll be searching for an NGK- Japanesey bearing as soon as I’ve released this screaming 35C NSW border summer squirrel again

Not sure if it is the same as you call it the A/C idler and I don't have my A/C belt hooked on yet, but I have replaced one idler bearing on my TD with this one, japanese:

85062

[jack]

Changed the Oil and all Filters, gearing up for an extended trip to SA (health permitting). Did a quick SA trip to catch up with family pre Xmas, now going to have a longer look around.

[Maxhead]

Changed the Oil and all Filters, gearing up for an extended trip to SA (health permitting). Did a quick SA trip to catch up with family pre Xmas, now going to have a longer look around.

Well fuck me Jack, seems like you’re living the life mate


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[jack]

Well fuck me Jack, seems like you’re living the life mate

I’ve got to do something otherwise I’ll have to sell the Patrol and van. Already selling the house to downsize.

85063

[MB]

Our Ford Maverick shorty finally got a long awaited spin around the front block today, extremely reluctant manual gearbox anxiety for the last year or two but She’s finally on board [emoji120][emoji120] [emoji322]

https://youtu.be/9BEJQbBDtCw


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[Winnie]

Unreal MB, great daddin' there truly! Smile at the end says it all really

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[Avo]

Putting up up for sale

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[10G]

found a bloody rattle that sounded like when you spin cleaned wheel bearing before you grease them. A stone, stuck in a hole, it was rounded off and smooth.

Also, was under the rear of the Trol on Saturday and looked at my rear sway bar links & remembered, Oh yeah, that's that stuffed link I told my self to replace at Laverton WA about 20,000k's and 1 trip ago. It's got another trip in it.

[Stropp]

Putting up up for sale

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Heard it before 😋

[Avo]

Heard it before [emoji39]Just put it on for way too much,get to keep it....

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[Avo]

Just put it on for way too much,get to keep it....

Sent from my SM-G780G using TapatalkGot it looking good....how's that for a detail..http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/02/28.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/02/29.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/02/30.jpg

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[Cremulator]

Installed clear side indicators from a Nissan X-Trail.
Just snipper off the factory Patrol plug and soldered the wires.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/03/4.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/03/5.jpg

[Stropp]

Finally took the door cards off to replace the split insert on the drivers side , did both sides so they match, whilst the cards were off noticed a bit of rust on the top fold where the trim goes on, it must be leaking a bit so treated that whilst I had the cards off. Also put a new pod filter in to replace the old filthy one.

[mudski]

Installed clear side indicators from a Nissan X-Trail.
Just snipper off the factory Patrol plug and soldered the wires.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/03/4.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/03/5.jpg

Early D21 Navara use the exact same indicators as the Patrol except they are clear. No mod required. FYI. :)

[Cremulator]

Early D21 Navara use the exact same indicators as the Patrol except they are clear. No mod required. FYI. :)I do know that. I've been keeping an eye out online for a couple if years but this seems to be the going rate.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/03/12.jpg
The X-Trail ones cost me $10 for the pair from the wreckers ;)
Edit: actually looking at the receipt they cost $5 for the pair!

[mudski]

I do know that. I've been keeping an eye out online for a couple if years but this seems to be the going rate.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/03/12.jpg
The X-Trail ones cost me $10 for the pair from the wreckers ;)
Edit: actually looking at the receipt they cost $5 for the pair!

Haha, yeah the cheaper one for the win!!!

[jay see]

After not driving it for a week I drove it to Bendigo, 270ks return trip and it still doesn't like the two climbs coming home..
Driving more on petrol now.

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[mudski]

After not driving it for a week I drove it to Bendigo, 270ks return trip and it still doesn't like the two climbs coming home..
Driving more on petrol now.

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Time to chuck a hair dryer on it John for some forced induction goodness.


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[jay see]

Time to chuck a hair dryer on it John for some forced induction goodness.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLosing the gas in a few weeks. Then I'll speak with the guys at 4x4 obsession. I think first up will be a full new exhaust and tune. It's going on club reg in November so after that there's really no rush.

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[DX grunt]

Got it looking good....how's that for a detail..http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/02/28.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/02/29.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/02/30.jpg

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Avo

It's only as good as the first dirt road you drive on. LOL.

[BrazilianY60]

It's going on club reg in November

What is a club reg?

[rusty_nail]

What is a club reg?Club rego is Victoria at least is a significantly cheaper form of registration. It comes with limitations to what or when it can be used for and you need to have a membership of some.sort of car club however it is almost 20%(I think) of the cost of our annual rego premium.

I'm recreational registering a motorbike this week which costs about $60-$80 per year as opposed to about $600. Just means I can't ride it wherever I please.a win in my opinion to keep something useful that I won't use very often.

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[mudski]

Club rego is Victoria at least is a significantly cheaper form of registration. It comes with limitations to what or when it can be used for and you need to have a membership of some.sort of car club however it is almost 20%(I think) of the cost of our annual rego premium.

I'm recreational registering a motorbike this week which costs about $60-$80 per year as opposed to about $600. Just means I can't ride it wherever I please.a win in my opinion to keep something useful that I won't use very often.

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Yeah mine will definitely going on club reg when its old enough in a couple of years.

[BrazilianY60]

Interesting. What would be the limitations in travel? State borders?

[mudski]

Interesting. What would be the limitations in travel? State borders?

You get a certain amount of kilometers allocated to you per month you are allowed to travel. So you must carry and filled in a log book each and every time you use the Patrol. I think, there is different fees for different amount of kilometers allocated too. So if you were to do a big trip you simply pay more to get more k's allocated. Still way cheaper than standard reg. Also to get club reg you must be a member of a registered club to be eligible to club reg and the vehicle must be 25years or older.

[Cuppa]

https://www.whichcar.com.au/news/planned-club-permit-changes-for-victoria-2021

[BrazilianY60]

So you must carry and filled in a log book each and every time you use the Patrol. So if you were to do a big trip you simply pay more to get more k's allocated.

Pay-as-you-go... interesting! One smart way for one to have, lets say, a collection of antique cars. Only pay for what one can actually drive them instead of paying for them to stay parked. Cool!

[mudski]

Pay-as-you-go... interesting! One smart way for one to have, lets say, a collection of antique cars. Only pay for what one can actually drive them instead of paying for them to stay parked. Cool!

Well its one fee for the year, at a much discounted rate, you get x amount of hours allocated with this. If you need more you pay more. I think this is how it works...

[Winnie]

You are only allowed to drive the car 45 days in the year, you must keep a log book of when the car is driven, where to and how many kms travelled. If you are caught without having filled the log book you are penalised as driving an unregistered vehicle and also not covered by insurance.
You can pay double the fee and get 90 days.

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[mudski]

You are only allowed to drive the car 45 days in the year, you must keep a log book of when the car is driven, where to and how many kms travelled. If you are caught without having filled the log book you are penalised as driving an unregistered vehicle and also not covered by insurance.
You can pay double the fee and get 90 days.

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I knew someone would come along and clear it up. Thanks.

[Plasnart]

You are only allowed to drive the car 45 days in the year, you must keep a log book of when the car is driven, where to and how many kms travelled. If you are caught without having filled the log book you are penalised as driving an unregistered vehicle and also not covered by insurance.
You can pay double the fee and get 90 days.

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Don't forget to also let your insurer know about the club reg. Much lower insurance premiums for club reg (or it was when I had an old roadbike on club reg). Something like $50 or thereabouts if my memory is correct! That's a while ago though.

Also I don't think all states recognise club reg. From memory once again I think WA didn't recognise it so couldn't travel into WA. Check these things when going to club reg and planning a trip.

[jay see]

Yep. Winnie is correct.
Your kms need to match your Speedo if you get pulled over.
What alot of people don't understand that you are obtaining a permit to drive an unregistered vehicle.

Mate of mine has vh commodore on club and pays around $250 in insurance a year on a car that's valued at $30k+. Their theory is that the car isn't on the road as much, so therefore less of a risk.

And yes, if traveling interstate make sure what your have is legally allowed to be there.
Pretty sure that Qld is 30 years to be eligible.

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[MB]

IMHO, in Victoriastan HC (and or enroute) = Cop Bait 🥲
Yes GQ’s and soon some early GU’s will be eligible but is it worth saving/attracting a potential scrutiny of minor modifications at best? [emoji848]
FWIW: Wash/Clean your highway number plates when departing a weekend say up in the VHC [emoji120][emoji106][emoji106]


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[jay see]

IMHO, in Victoriastan HC (and or enroute) = Cop Bait 🥲
Yes GQ’s and soon some early GU’s will be eligible but is it worth saving/attracting a potential scrutiny of minor modifications at best? [emoji848]
FWIW: Wash/Clean your highway number plates when departing a weekend say up in the VHC [emoji120][emoji106][emoji106]


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And wash down all your lights too..

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[jay see]

Just on the Vic club permit, also be aware that if you have your vehicle modified it may require a engineering certificate and then a M plate (modified) with be required. Most seem to get away with the H (historic) plate...


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[MB]

Legend JS Mate, You Know The Score [emoji6][emoji106]


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[MB]

Pay Once….Stress Lesssssssss [emoji23]


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[jff45]

Just finished the Marks4WD hydro booster brakes mod. Now it brakes..

85165

[Rossco]

Just finished the Marks4WD hydro booster brakes mod. Now it brakes..

85165So how's she go pretty happy with it?? . .

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[jff45]

So how's she go pretty happy with it?? . .

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It’s pretty impressive but I’ll need time to get used to the fact that you no longer have that typical doughy vacuum booster feel in the pedal. It’s like when you lose vacuum and the pedal goes hard except that it brakes really well without having to stand on the pedal.
I plan to play a bit with the rear bias now to see how close I can come to the limit there. I’ve never changed the rear pads in the 15 years I’ve owned the car so might also take a closer look at the rear calipers and maybe do slotted rotors and better pads there as well. I don’t see the price of the ECB pads justified for the rear but there are other good quality pads around.

[big380]

Hello Guys, I own a y62 nissan 2021. Can anybody help me find a place in Sydney that does good work on performance all around like alot off places in WA and VIC and Qld. Nothing in Sydney from what i can find....Cheers all

[stevemc181]

Just got the patrol (2016 CRD) back after a 4 week wait due to a hold up with parts. Had the full Fabwitz FMIC/Snorkel/Intake Pipework/Airbox fitted along with a destalled Torque converter/Heavy duty flex plate/stage 2 valve body, all fitted by West Coast 4x4 creations in Perth.

Then on Monday she’s off down to modified diesel performance for a UFI ZL30 and Alphatec module. I took it for a good 250km drive today to make sure all was well, and man! It’s like driving a different vehicle, nice firm shifts with no flaring and no need to constantly back off due to high EGT’s on the hills.

Can’t wait till next week after the new tune and ZL30 are done, should have plenty of grunt. She’ll be pushing somewhere around the 180-200rwhp as a daily.

Pic of the Fabwitz kit below, after taking to Shaun at westcoast, I’m glad he fitted it all and not myself. Reckons it was an absolute pain to do.

85174

[stevemc181]

Pushing some good numbers now the ZL30 Turbo and tune with an Alphatec module have been fitted.

Different beast to drive now, very happy with it! I think the best mod I’ve done is the transmission stuff, what a difference in driveability it’s all made :)
Keep in mind the figures below are from a hub dyno.

Base Tune: 145hp : 383Nm
Tune 1: 209.9hp : 538Nm
Tune 2: 241.6hp : 634Nm

85186

85187

[Stropp]

85188New led driving lights, awesome, slowly getting it like my old one, better 2 as I know what to get after the old troll.

[jff45]

Overhauling the rear brakes. Rebuilding calipers and fitting RDA rotors with DBA Extreme pads.
Decided to paint the calipers but need to bake them in the oven tomorrow before fitting the new rubbers, etc.


85253

85254

85255

[jff45]

All baked, rebuilt & refitted. Just need to bleed it all and try it out..

85257

[mudski]

Overhauling the rear brakes. Rebuilding calipers and fitting RDA rotors with DBA Extreme pads.
Decided to paint the calipers but need to bake them in the oven tomorrow before fitting the new rubbers,

Why did you bake them? When I rebuilt my calipers I just sprayed them, let it dry, assembled them and off I went. Still nice and red 50thou later.


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[jay see]

After a few attempts to get my snorkel sealing correctly, the beater got it right, well let's hope so..http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/04/162.jpg

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[jff45]

Why did you bake them? When I rebuilt my calipers I just sprayed them, let it dry, assembled them and off I went. Still nice and red 50thou later.


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Just following the instructions on the VHT Caliper Paint can. They say for max chemical resistance to bake for an hour at 200F.
They probably would cure over time anyway with brake heat but baking them is a pretty easy process.

Now I have to do the fronts..

[Mickhead]

Just following the instructions on the VHT Caliper Paint can. They say for max chemical resistance to bake for an hour at 200F.
They probably would cure over time anyway with brake heat but baking them is a pretty easy process.

Now I have to do the fronts..

All you need now is some serious power and some BREMBO stickers.. sorry😂😂😂

[jff45]

All you need now is some serious power and some BREMBO stickers.. sorry😂😂😂

I don’t need any more power than what I currently have. It was the brakes that couldn’t keep up but that’s all fixed now with the hydro boost and decent rotors and pads front and rear.

You won’t find a single non original sticker on my car..

[MB]

My Apologies John Mate, I haven’t properly kept up to speed on the Hydro Boost brake modification that you’ve done recently and many other Legends too following suit now.
Is it a complete removal of vacuum brake booster system and hydraulic pump replacement somehow?
Couldn’t trouble you for a website linky thing when time permits please [emoji120][emoji120]


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[jff45]

My Apologies John Mate, I haven’t properly kept up to speed on the Hydro Boost brake modification that you’ve done recently and many other Legends too following suit now.
Is it a complete removal of vacuum brake booster system and hydraulic pump replacement somehow?
Couldn’t trouble you for a website linky thing when time permits please [emoji120][emoji120]

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Marks4WD supply a complete kit for GU Patrols. It’s an AC Delco unit, as fitted to several GM vehicles, and Marks make and fit the adaptor plates and pushrod. The unit replaces the vacuum booster and gets hydraulic pressure direct from the steering pump which is rerouted to the steering box to resume the original steering pressure circuit.
It basically doubles the pressure that can be supplied to the brake circuit so braided brake lines are highly recommended.

The cylinder with the label on it is a gas filled piston that maintains some reserve pressure in case of engine stall. Similar to the small vacuum reserve in stock systems.
Cremulator did his installation a week or so before me.


85271

[MB]

Cheers John, Appreciated Mate [emoji120][emoji120]


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[MB]

Was hoping to depart for urgent NSW work early in the morning utilising the little TB45NA tug boat weapon for our Kanga trailer and gear. Picked up some new 2” shocks and 2” GU springs to handle my guesstimated weight needs with front steel work awaiting fitment ASAP. Whoops…..it’s standing proud at 4” lift now and its rear mini shorty tailshaft unladen is near 5 degrees at least uni joint uneven and vibrating badly [emoji51]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/05/80.jpg

A quick run in another vehicle to Patrolapart to pickup gearbox crossmember dropdown spacers (12mm) and will steal upper adjustable control arms off my GQ ute in the morning for hopefully a half day only delayed departure needed [emoji383] [emoji120][emoji120]


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[Rossco]

Looking good Markie hopefully she does the trick. . . Ah the joys of modifying stuff . . [emoji50]*[emoji100] . . [emoji28] . . [emoji106][emoji106]

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[MB]

Cheers Rossco, any chance I can ask a quick run out to your shed measurement pretty please Brother[emoji120] [emoji120]
I’m trying to ascertain what the front measurement from an OEM hard plastic guard base/underneath to our GQ hubs centre is from factory backtracking ? This thing is currently sitting at circa 610mm prior to steel bar and winch fitment tomorrow morning.
Picture with 250kg rear ball weight and no front steel work yet [emoji29]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/05/81.jpg


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[MB]

A quick ring around the Hills, Thankyou Legends for your Time[emoji120][emoji120]
My best backtracking calculations of various Blokes lifts now put a GQ front OEM bog stock at around 500mm plastic OEM guard base to hub center?
Has anybody out there possibly please got any confirmation of this and or whereabouts to find Mr Nissan’s factory specifications? [emoji120][emoji120]


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[Cremulator]

A quick ring around the Hills, Thankyou Legends for your Time[emoji120][emoji120]
My best backtracking calculations of various Blokes lifts now put a GQ front OEM bog stock at around 500mm plastic OEM guard base to hub center?
Has anybody out there possibly please got any confirmation of this and or whereabouts to find Mr Nissan’s factory specifications? [emoji120][emoji120]


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkHave a look at this @MB
http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=278820&postcount=24
"The GQ ST & TI wagon's have trim heights of 565 front, and 530 on the rear."

[MB]

Ash Mate, You’re A Superstar, Greatly Appreciated, THANKYOU [emoji120][emoji120][emoji120]


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