What did you do to your Patrol today!

[MB]

Finished paid work for 2019 so jacked hers up ready for Santa and his mates to return to Christmas Hills in the wee morning hours.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/159.jpg
Hopefully they’ll get time to install the locker whilst we’re asleep, fingers crossed because I can’t be stuffed as I’m sure everyone else here over 40 feels the same :-)


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[Convert]

Today I adjusted the Male/female bracket that supports the right side barn door.
The Door was moving in its frame and the rubber was squeaking.
Another rattle down, a few to go

[PeeBee]

Started on the under dash wiring today, Started with this
79819
Then right about now I realised my definition of refreshing was a fair way off what MudRunnerTD calls it
79820[/ATTACH[ATTACH=CONFIG]79822

[Cuppa]

Started on the under dash wiring today, Started with this

Then right about now I realised my definition of refreshing was a fair way off what MudRunnerTD calls it

Ya trying to give us nightmares?

[PeeBee]

Ya trying to give us nightmares?

Its a mess and I did it all my self - now after numbering all the cables I have to trace them out and then reconnect in a tidier manner.

[rusty_nail]

wow mate! thats insane lol. how many bloody additional devices do you have!!

[PeeBee]

wow mate! thats insane lol. how many bloody additional devices do you have!!

Dunno but the small pile of cables in the previous post were cables that were connected to the fuse box and not connected at the other end - no idea what was or wasn't going on in my head when I was generating this mess. There are still a dozen or more cables running up under the dash - a trouble shooting nightmare - will be glad when I have it tidy and able to know what goes where.

[Winnie]

I know with what mine looks like after 10 years of owning it, Phil has had his for closer to 30 so I reckon if we work on pro-rata I'm not far behind you Phil!

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[PeeBee]

I know with what mine looks like after 10 years of owning it, Phil has had his for closer to 30 so I reckon if we work on pro-rata I'm not far behind you Phil!

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Nip it off now Chris as this is a total jungle right now. I reckon its at least 2 full days to rectify, then move down the back to tidy that up. Its going to be worth it, just impatient to get the barge onto the road. Waiting for the integrated I/c and the interchiller also, so reckon its a march completion 2020 - just to ensure I don't get tarred and feathered - its been 7 months off the road so far - totally over it, but a lot has happened - pretty pleased with where its heading. I bought mine new in July 1997, so we are looking at close to 23yrs of ownership and wiring abuse!!! The mother in law is down until Jan 4, then I have until Jan 16 to rip into things before heading back north. I should make a good dnet in it with the other things on the list - looking to plate out the chassis as well - bought the kits from PSR.

[Cuppa]

You are drawing a comprehensive wiring diagram ...... aren't you?

[PeeBee]

You are drawing a comprehensive wiring diagram ...... aren't you?

You betcha! will get the drafty's at site to sort one out once I have it sketched up.

[mudski]

Bloody hell Phil. There’s more than two days of solid work in that wiring.


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[rusty_nail]

Bloody hell Phil. There’s more than two days of solid work in that wiring.


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hows merimbula ya bastard

[mudski]

hows merimbula ya bastard

Not there yet. We leave on the 5th for two weeks.


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[PeeBee]

Bloody hell Phil. There’s more than two days of solid work in that wiring.


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I hope not. I am heading to jaycar in the morning to stock up on connectors then the wire tracing begins as soon as I get a leave pass to commence.

[MudRunnerTD]

I hope not. I am heading to jaycar in the morning to stock up on connectors then the wire tracing begins as soon as I get a leave pass to commence.

buy some 7 core 15amp trailer wire mate. it will help you with your looms a lot. Jaycar sell it in a roll.

[MB]

Somewhat farked a brand new ARB bearing journal :-(
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/181.jpg
In my christmas holidays wisdom thought a 47mm socket punch could do the home press jobbie but found reckon she might squirt guppy farts even after a solid hours hand 200/400/600 linishing wanker attempts to rectify idiot scratches :-(


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[mudski]

buy some 7 core 15amp trailer wire mate. it will help you with your looms a lot. Jaycar sell it in a roll.

Yeah that’s a great option. Then you have seven colours in one loom to play with. Although, I think Phil needs 300 core wire. Lol


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[PeeBee]

Yeah that’s a great option. Then you have seven colours in one loom to play with. Although, I think Phil needs 300 core wire. Lol


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You guys are painting into something I am not - a creative auto elec!. Once I work out what I am doing I will see how if it can be made tidier. I do have about 6m of 20 core, but every cable is black, so you can probably guess what a cluster I would make of that. The 7 core might get a heads up - was down at Jaycar this morning and bought 200 of their smallest circular ring crimp fittings - just in case!

[jay see]

Not there yet. We leave on the 5th for two weeks.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkF U. I'm back at work on the 6th.


Enjoy mate...

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[jay see]

Somewhat farked a brand new ARB bearing journal :-(
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/181.jpg
In my christmas holidays wisdom thought a 47mm socket punch could do the home press jobbie but found reckon she might squirt guppy farts even after a solid hours hand 200/400/600 linishing wanker attempts to rectify idiot scratches :-(


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkDo you make a woopies...

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[MudRunnerTD]

You guys are painting into something I am not - a creative auto elec!. Once I work out what I am doing I will see how if it can be made tidier. I do have about 6m of 20 core, but every cable is black, so you can probably guess what a cluster I would make of that. The 7 core might get a heads up - was down at Jaycar this morning and bought 200 of their smallest circular ring crimp fittings - just in case!

All the colours can be positive mate. Use your multi core black as earth. All colours positive but allows you to run your switching looms with fuses and logic. If you need 2 runs of it then you have 14 wires, all positive, but only 2 of any colour. Just label the outer sheath as run 1 and run2 or a piece of tape around the end of one mate. The 15 amp will handle most of your need a with ease. Happy to come and give you a day Phil.

[mudski]

Made up some rubber cover thingos to cover up the gap between the inner wheel arch and chassis on the rear. Looks like there was supposed to be something there but nothing shows OEM in the parts program.
79839
79840

I also cut out some black corflute and tucked it in the small rear bard door window frame to keep the sun off the fridge. I have done both left and right windows with this stuff too.
Works well it does. I might even do the large barn too in the future...
79841

And then gave the old GUrl a sponge bath in preparation for our trip.
79843

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[Cuppa]

I've used the corflute stuff taped onto the rear window of our Patrol's canopy as a means of protecting it from stone damage when towing off road. It's good stuff. Have also used it underneath our fridges, sitting on the fridge slides, just for an additional bit of insulation. Our's is white on the side that shows & with pictures of Patrick Dodson on the side that doesn't. We were in Broome at the time of the last election!
:smileyvault-cute-bi

[PeeBee]

All the colours can be positive mate. Use your multi core black as earth. All colours positive but allows you to run your switching looms with fuses and logic. If you need 2 runs of it then you have 14 wires, all positive, but only 2 of any colour. Just label the outer sheath as run 1 and run2 or a piece of tape around the end of one mate. The 15 amp will handle most of your need a with ease. Happy to come and give you a day Phil.

Thanks again Darren, that make sense, incredible how I cant join the dots at times. I think the cables as run will more or less remain, however a few, quite a few will be shortened and run in a more regulated fashion instead of spaghetti like. Tidied up with some corrugated hose and should come out ok. The runs to the back of the car are being rationalised - I am finding heaps of loose tails simply chopped off - bloody disgrace to be honest. I will give you a shout if I crap out for sure..
When is that shed going up by the way? The concrete will at least be well onto the way to 100% cure by then I guess.

[PeeBee]

Made up some rubber cover thingos to cover up the gap between the inner wheel arch and chassis on the rear. Looks like there was supposed to be something there but nothing shows OEM in the parts program.
79839
79840

I also cut out some black corflute and tucked it in the small rear bard door window frame to keep the sun off the fridge. I have done both left and right windows with this stuff too.
Works well it does. I might even do the large barn too in the future...
79841

And then gave the old GUrl a sponge bath in preparation for our trip.
79843

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Thats a really smart looking rig Mark, have a safe trip, hopefully free of too much 'steam'. I might try the corflute on mine also to shade the fridge - good simple idea. I have also closed up the rear wheel well with rubberm, but more to hide the belly tank fill pipe, can hardly tell it is there, need to do the other side next.

[mudski]

Thats a really smart looking rig Mark, have a safe trip, hopefully free of too much 'steam'.

Thanks Phil.

Yeah she'll boil over without a doubt. Unless the weather decides to cool down. But Im out of ideas on the hows and why's of the kettle so I just drive it now.

I just need to figure out why the light bar has decided to constantly blow fuses now. Never did for 4 years. Now it will blow a fuse within minutes.

[PeeBee]

I spent the morning mounting the interchiller surge tank and pump, Final solution was simple enough but getting there was a pain. I will post the photos tomorrow - car back in the garage, was heading over to pay MB a visit but the pool won out in the end - its a bit warm right now in Melb SE. Resuming with the wiring in the morning. On the hunt for the elusive a/c compressor clutch supply cable - seems to have evaporated under the bonnet - very annoying - hope it didn't get 'purged' last week.

[mudski]

Somewhat farked a brand new ARB bearing journal :-(
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/181.jpg
In my christmas holidays wisdom thought a 47mm socket punch could do the home press jobbie but found reckon she might squirt guppy farts even after a solid hours hand 200/400/600 linishing wanker attempts to rectify idiot scratches :-(


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Get some Devcon steel putty. Fill that tiny pit in and sand it back and you wont even know its there. Or. Install a speedie sleeve and all you'll need to do it drill a hole where the air port is in the journal.

[MB]

Cheers Mark Mate!
PeeBee Legend has kindly brought some 1/4” NPT taps around this morning for airline housing work and we’ve assessed that previous MB idiot damage will hopefully be ok with a wee bit more linishing dodgey hills shed style.
Off Forum too Mr Daz Legend and I kindly also discussed a worst case scenario of it simply running the compressor more often and or if a complete blowout back to a single spinner diff same same as her current OEM front differential.


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[MB]

This Legend of a bloke kindly opened his shop up in Dandenong for an hour today to adjust our diffs backlash and pre-load.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/222.jpg
He’s also much better than my efforts linished the journal butchering done and final pressure tested up nicely!
He only just managed to 90 degree bend the internal copper air locker line into the hole we’d tapped from ARB instructional picture interpretation.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/223.jpg
Be careful here folks as the picture is deceiving I believe!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/224.jpg
Really should be on a straight line down the inside of the diff housing unlike whats done is done now.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/225.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/226.jpg



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[tryan277]

Removed bulbar to straighten the passengers side wing after I managed to bend it getting out of a bog hole nearly two years ago. Has been rubbing on the grill piece ever since.
Having a fork to support it is very handy
79857
The pieces on the floor
79858
looks a little naked....
And yes I have blasted out all the dried mud.

When straight again, going to add some extra bracing in the wings.

While its off, removing the intercooler and radiator for cleaning and maybe replacing water pump. Have a weeping gasket just below the thermostat housing, and last time I had belt off the water pump, it had a bit of movement on the shaft. Should be much easier to do...……

Does anyone know where you can get those little black plastics clips that hold the grill on, or a suitable replacement

Cheers Trevor

[PeeBee]

Try these, all metal and work a treat, better than the plastic

Is it an optical illusion or is your drivers side headlight on the piss?

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Patrol-GQ-Front-Grill-Clip-Upgrade-Kit-suits-Y60-TD42-TB42-RB30-8-PACK/143426737808?hash=item2164e65690:g:JwIAAOSwZ1lWb0A p

[tryan277]

Try these, all metal and work a treat, better than the plastic

Is it an optical illusion or is your drivers side headlight on the piss?

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Patrol-GQ-Front-Grill-Clip-Upgrade-Kit-suits-Y60-TD42-TB42-RB30-8-PACK/143426737808?hash=item2164e65690:g:JwIAAOSwZ1lWb0A p

Thanks for the suggestion. Captive nuts and bolts, use them when installing small data cabinets (my son is a sparky) should have some somewhere.

Funny how some people can see things in pictures and others can’t

Cheers Trevor

[PeeBee]

I had another look last night at the front shot and almost looks like a bit of 'fish eye' distortion, obviously not.

[tryan277]

Update
Removed the intercooler and the radiator has some dried out mud on it...……...
79860
Removed the radiator and washed out the mud. Reckon about a quarter of the radiator was useless.

Nissan Patrol GQ TD42 2 Wire Tacho Sensor can be seen to the right of the water pump
79861
It appears the sealant or whatever it is, where the 2 wires go into to the housing, is breaking down so not sure if I should replace it while access is easy.

"According to Patrolapart
Genuine Nissan Patrol GQ TD42 2 Wire Tacho Sensor
Suit GQ Patrol with a TD42 engine.
This sensor is located on the timing cover. This is a 2 wire sensor.
This tacho sensor is held in by one bolt.
The two bolt tacho sensors are no longer in production and this is the substituted item for this"

Any comments on replacing the sensor?

Cheers Trevor

[PeeBee]

Swapped out what was a very expensive JVC sound system today, finally carked it, so down to Autobarn and a Kenwood unit that plays cd's and all the other telepathic intergalactic methods of music storage, for $169. Took the best part of the day to install mainly due to - yep, wiring - having to hack into the original loom that had been hacked about when the JVC was put in - no I didn't do that install. Running thru 50w speakers and a high quality antenna - sound absolutely crystal clear and a step up from the JVC.This model is the KDC-BT630U, does not have DAT. Unfortunately the centre console in the dash had to come out due to the old world 1997 mounting system, but pretty straight forward.

[PeeBee]

Removed the alternator and added the Quicktifier Rectifier package to ensure the unit load is lower across the factory fitted rectifiers. have to mount the unit tomorrow - simply baking this afternoon in the garage. Took it out for a spin in the suburban heat and it never got over 90degC on oil or water, so fingers crossed the big aluminium radiator is going to deliver. Wasn't under any real load though, just stop start but enough indication. yet to hook up the big elec fans - its on the list.

[jay see]

Pulled out the radiator and gave it a good wash and the a/C condenser. New coolant and topped up with Demineralised water.

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[BSRT.Beast]

Started and ran it for 15 mins and took some more photos lol.

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[PeeBee]

Made the mount bracket for the Quicktifier unit, hooked it up, no sparks or flames, idle voltage went up 0.3V, so good result. Starting on the rear wiring mess tomorrow, or Monday, still have to sort out a couple of items now without power since my clean-up, and finalise the wiring looms under into corrugated protection. Mounted the wiper washer bottle after first extending the piddly wiring looms to the little pumps - added 300mm to each cable so they can be connected whilst the washer bottle is out of position instead of having to grow spider fingers to plug them in - worthwhile mod. I believe.Then onto the lighting set-up to deliver the 28V to all the LED's as previous.

[MB]

Best modification on Mrs MB’s old stocky wagon to date hopefully!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/44.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/45.jpg
If we treat the coin mechanism operation like a swear jar and between the four of us we should have all credit cards paid off in no time at all ready for 2021 rear locker adventures out there to come too [emoji106][emoji106]





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[mudski]

Thought I’d check the aux batteries water level prior to our trip. Although, it’s been working fine and running a fridge and light with ease I thought best check anyway. Just as well I did. It took a far bit of water...
79865
This was full. So maybe a litre and a half went in! Wow!
Now running my CTek smart charger on it and it passes the charge hold test. Lucky!



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[Rossco]

Best modification on Mrs MB’s old stocky wagon to date hopefully!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/44.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/45.jpg
If we treat the coin mechanism operation like a swear jar and between the four of us we should have all credit cards paid off in no time at all ready for 2021 rear locker adventures out there to come too [emoji106][emoji106]





Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkBloody love it, your a thinking man I tells ya . . . [emoji23]

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[Plasnart]

Best modification on Mrs MB’s old stocky wagon to date hopefully!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/44.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/45.jpg
If we treat the coin mechanism operation like a swear jar and between the four of us we should have all credit cards paid off in no time at all ready for 2021 rear locker adventures out there to come too [emoji106][emoji106]





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Freaking crackup clown you are mate!

[PeeBee]

Thought I’d check the aux batteries water level prior to our trip. Although, it’s been working fine and running a fridge and light with ease I thought best check anyway. Just as well I did. It took a far bit of water...
79865
This was full. So maybe a litre and a half went in! Wow!
Now running my CTek smart charger on it and it passes the charge hold test. Lucky!



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I reckon you dodged a bullet there Mark.

[mudski]

I reckon you dodged a bullet there Mark.

Yeah I reckon... it now has a full charge and holds the charge and it held load too from my load tester. Phew!


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[PeeBee]

Yeah, expensive day in the shed. Hooked up the CTEK system to the new 300 amp alternator - didn't go well is perhaps the understatement of the new year. One the look out for an alternate system now. All hooked up correctly, just could not take the current. Snap crackle and pop then all the smoke started escaping and joined the bushfire smoke.7987079871

[10G]

Yeah, expensive day in the shed. Hooked up the CTEK system to the new 300 amp alternator - didn't go well is perhaps the understatement of the new year. One the look out for an alternate system now. All hooked up correctly, just could not take the current. Snap crackle and pop then all the smoke started escaping and joined the bushfire smoke.7987079871

That should buff out mate.

[mudski]

Yeah, expensive day in the shed. Hooked up the CTEK system to the new 300 amp alternator - didn't go well is perhaps the understatement of the new year. One the look out for an alternate system now. All hooked up correctly, just could not take the current. Snap crackle and pop then all the smoke started escaping and joined the bushfire smoke.7987079871

Ask Ctek for warranty. surely good enough for a laugh at least.

[Cuppa]

Geez PeeBee, What are you like?

You never considered that connecting a 300A output to a 120A max input ctek smartpass to be a tad unwise. I am shaking my head slowly from side to side in disbelief. Bet that's something you wont try again in a hurry!

[PeeBee]

Yes, was a brain fart moment for sure. I wasn't expecting a full 300amps into the rear bank, and unfortunately I didn't have the ammeter connected as needed to extend the in cab wiring, so charged on with this alternate job - boy, should have gone to Jaycar and bought the damn cable. Anyway, its another lesson I guess. Looking around for a different system now, seems there are a few on the market.

[Cuppa]

. Looking around for a different system now, seems there are a few on the market.

What batteries are you charging with such a powerful alternator? I cant imagine needing 300A for anthing other than a large Lithium battery bank. This might make interesting reading for you if you haen't seen it already.
https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/using-a-high-output-alternator-to-rapidly-charge-house-battery-bank.142462/

[MudRunnerTD]

Yes, was a brain fart moment for sure. I wasn't expecting a full 300amps into the rear bank, and unfortunately I didn't have the ammeter connected as needed to extend the in cab wiring, so charged on with this alternate job - boy, should have gone to Jaycar and bought the damn cable. Anyway, its another lesson I guess. Looking around for a different system now, seems there are a few on the market.I reckon ditch the Ctek completely. You don't need a smart charging system with 300amp supply IMO. Just run some 90mmsq and an isolation switch between batteries for safety.

This is my 600amp continuous rated switch to my 24v system. It will handle your system all day.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/73.jpg

Good luck mate... I'm am happy to hear from anyone that says this is bad advice. I have no idea, it.makes sense to me though.



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[Cuppa]

Good luck mate... I'm am happy to hear from anyone that says this is bad advice. I have no idea, it.makes sense to me though.


I suspect it depends upon the intended usage. Knowing your love of winching I suspect yours is setup to allow for extended winching, which seems to make sense for me too although it might depend upon what battery capacity you are putting it through. Chucking 300A into a 100Ah battery for example, whilst pulling several hundred amps out of it may or may not be a recipe for short battery life. Not sure really. When you are using it like that does the battery get very hot. Have you had that set up for long & used it much? Does it do what you want? Bueseas switch is good gear, hopefully it is one of the models with alternator protection built in so you can switch it whilst the engine is running without frying the alternator diodes.

[PeeBee]

What batteries are you charging with such a powerful alternator? I cant imagine needing 300A for anthing other than a large Lithium battery bank. This might make interesting reading for you if you haen't seen it already.
https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/using-a-high-output-alternator-to-rapidly-charge-house-battery-bank.142462/
Yes am already looking at Blueseas as either a simple switch like Darren has or a 500a rated unit with some basic switching. Regards application, I have the system configured for what I need with the weak link being simply the control device capacity. I have 400ah of a hybrid agm battery bank that is set up to run a warn 15000lb winch for extended periods if required plus a coffee machine which is life sustaining. I would not spend any more of your time evaluating my system as the demands are far greater than your setup and totally differently focused. I am going back to a simpler more robust system as I don't need the sophistication of trying to run a big battery bank off a small alternator. If I wanted that style I would have gone to a Sterling Power system. The solar setup at 400w will also now be setup on its own controller as opposed to the one super control option from deter. What can you recommend just for the solar side of things Cuppa? Appreciate the input for sure.Thanks

[PeeBee]

I reckon ditch the Ctek completely. You don't need a smart charging system with 300amp supply IMO. Just run some 90mmsq and an isolation switch between batteries for safety.

This is my 600amp continuous rated switch to my 24v system. It will handle your system all day.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/73.jpg

Good luck mate... I'm am happy to hear from anyone that says this is bad advice. I have no idea, it.makes sense to me though.



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Agree Darren, will see what my existing manual isolation switch is rated at that was in the circuit originally to allow emerg isolation of the front to back battery setup, then decide if the Blueseas upgrade goes manual like yours or slightly mote control with 500a capacity. Thanks for the quick response also.

[PeeBee]

I suspect it depends upon the intended usage. Knowing your love of winching I suspect yours is setup to allow for extended winching, which seems to make sense for me too although it might depend upon what battery capacity you are putting it through. Chucking 300A into a 100Ah battery for example, whilst pulling several hundred amps out of it may or may not be a recipe for short battery life. Not sure really. When you are using it like that does the battery get very hot. Have you had that set up for long & used it much? Does it do what you want? Bueseas switch is good gear, hopefully it is one of the models with alternator protection built in so you can switch it whilst the engine is running without frying the alternator diodes.
Battery life is largely determined by depth of discharge, and some other contributing factors of lesser importance. Framing this simply, for winching it's about amps out verses amps in. If the winch is pulling 300amps and you are supplying 300 amps there is no detrimental effect. If the winch draws 400amps, them battery voltage will fall, winch will start to overheat as it is a simple watts equals volts x amps equation. If your battery cables between alternator and battery are undersized, volt drop and higher heat build up, more resistance and the spiral downwards begins. Similarly with the supply from battery bank to winch. Don't confuse amp/Jr. With cca. The cca is the capacity of the battery to expend high amp discharge over short periods of time, as opposed to a/Hr capacity for lower current draw over extended periods - two entirely different units of measurement and frankly different construction formats within each style of battery.
The battery is best thought of as a bucket and the alternator the pump. The alternator provides the flowrate in Volts and the battery the pressure or head in amps to do the work (I think that's right, could be arse about??). When these flows are optimised there is minimal net effect on battery or bucket capacity.

Lastly, if you had an alternator supplying a winch in excess of its draw, the motor would not get as hot, one of the reasons why the duty rating of electric dc winches is so low is because the alternator at 100amps can't replenish the winch draw down at say 400amp, hence the winch draws higher current to satisfy the torque requirement, and the resultant heat build up and requirement to rest the winch to protect the winch windings and insulation and also to reduce the internal resistance from the heat. In my earlier days I spent a bit of time working with large dc drives, circa 400hp plus and these issues were fundamental parameters we dealt with including supplementary casing cooling and heat extraction using refrigerant methods - challenging stuff well in excess of the duty issues of our little winch motors

[Yeti's Beast]

Praise the lord, finally someone that understands [emoji106]


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[Yeti's Beast]

I’ve seen so many people make the mistake of using deep cycle batteries for a winch too. The winch is basically a starter motor so it needs a cca rating to supply high amps to spin at the correct speed which in turn reduces current draw. If it runs too slow, heat builds up, resistance builds up etc


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[10G]

Yes, was a brain fart moment for sure. I wasn't expecting a full 300amps into the rear bank, and unfortunately I didn't have the ammeter connected as needed to extend the in cab wiring, so charged on with this alternate job - boy, should have gone to Jaycar and bought the damn cable. Anyway, its another lesson I guess. Looking around for a different system now, seems there are a few on the market.

Do you think the D250S may have got damaged?

If you're getting rid of that and it's OK I'm interested.

[Cuppa]

If the winch is pulling 300amps and you are supplying 300 amps there is no detrimental effect.


That is the bit I am unsure about. Not saying it's wrong, just that I am not certain it's correct. Reason is that lead based batteries are generally recommended to be charged at around a max 20% of their capacity. However if the battery is full charged, & the input & output is balanced then the size of that input/output may be inconsequential. Also if that is so & the current draw exceeds what the alternator can supply then I don't see that as a problem, as it will just result in the battery becoming discharged, & that can be re-charged. Where I do wonder if there is a problem is what happens when the batteries are fairly low & you start the car running a 300amp alternator. Overcharging will kill batteries just as undercharging will. If the 20% rule is followed your battery bank needs a max of around 80amp charge. How, in those circumstances will you 'regulate' the input?

I'm guessing that fitting the ctek stuff was an attempt to regulate the alternator input into a discharged battery?

The alternative without it - I suppose - is to only connect the alternator to the aux batteries during winching, & let solar look after their charging the rest of the time? 400w solar will give a max of around 25 to 30 amps for however many 'sun hours a day' there are at the location. Optimistically - 150Ah per day? Seems an inconvenient/clunky solution to me.

I suppose it really depends upon how long a period you expect to be winching for. To me it seems pretty extreme 'competition stuff' to need to run a 300amp to provide 'direct' power to the winch. In 'everyday' 4wd'ing I reckon it is significant overkill. In my setup my winch runs off the crank battery, & using a switch similar to that of Darren's I can parallel my 360Ah aux batteries to it to offer extended winching time if needed. To date my 70Ah alternator has been sufficient & the aux batteries hae not been used in that way. Assuming however that your intended use is more 'hardcore' than mine, I'd still reckon that you aux battery capacity in most if not all instances , together with an alternator sized to be able to be used with something like the ctek setup you had would be as much as most people would need.

My way of looking at the 300A alternator is that unless it is a second alternator used only for winching, is that it needs some sort of 'variable output control', which allows it to be restricted to say 100 or 120A in normal use, or full output during winching. I imagine there are probably products out there to do this but would think that you'd be looking at big bikkies for something that specialised.

The other alternative would be instead to swap the batteries for a LiFePo4 set up, but you would want to ensure that it had a very robust battery management system and ensure that the car's cooling system was up to coping with the additional sustained load from the alternator if it were in use full time.

I acknowledge that high amp alternator & winching is outside my experience ...... it would be good to hear from anyone else who has been there/done that - as to just how they have set things up if they have done so in a way which has stood the test of time. No point in re-inventing wheels.

[MudRunnerTD]

I think you will find cuppa that the Ctek setup came before the 300amp alternator and was simply an oversight. It wasn't added to deal with the alternator but rather was a victim of the upgrade.

I expect that the 400w solar setup is there for long term static touring rather than a clunky backup to the 300amp alternator. 150ah a day from solar is a great delivery for most things I'd have thought. Way more than I have and plenty for most requirements.

I appreciate the concern over the capacity for the batteries to accept the 300amps for sure. They really need to be connected in series and the full bank getbtue full 300ampd as a shared load I reckon. There is so much supply that I see No reason ever to isolate all 300amps to a single battery.

300amps.... let us just contemplate that. Just Wow! That is effectively limitless. 90mm or even 120mm cable is the go I think.

[PeeBee]

I’ve seen so many people make the mistake of using deep cycle batteries for a winch too. The winch is basically a starter motor so it needs a cca rating to supply high amps to spin at the correct speed which in turn reduces current draw. If it runs too slow, heat builds up, resistance builds up etc


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Agree, These batteries have both a cCA rating of 1000cca and an a/hr rating of 130a/hr. How effective either is remains to be seen as have not used the batteries in anger for winching but they work great for the base camping and the coffee machine.

[Cuppa]

I expect that the 400w solar setup is there for long term static touring rather than a clunky backup to the 300amp alternator. 150ah a day from solar is a great delivery for most things I'd have thought. Way more than I have and plenty for most requirements.

I appreciate the concern over the capacity for the batteries to accept the 300amps for sure. They really need to be connected in series and the full bank getbtue full 300ampd as a shared load I reckon. There is so much supply that I see No reason ever to isolate all 300amps to a single battery.



My expectation of the solar matches yours MR, I only mentioned it as a 'clunky alternative to re-charging a 400Ah battery bank if it had been severely depleted by winching use, if the 300A alternator were not used. It could be a 3 day job. I can't see what connecting the 400Ah batteries in series would achieve - it would not increase the stored capacity, only the voltage (although this would allow for smaller connecting cables). The need for current regulation of a 300Amp alternator feeding into the 400AH battery ban would remain surely. The reason I suggested the possible need to have the 300A alternator only switched through to the 400Ah battery bank was in the absence of any means of regulating the output in normal circumstances when winch9ng was not occurring. I didn't suggest (I dont think) that it should be connected to a single battery, (Ie the crank battery) as this would have pretty much the same issue. What I did suggest was a two alternator setup, with the 300A one restricted to winch use only, unless there were some means of regulating it's current output.

I don't understand your comment about a shared load - shared with what?

It is all conjecture on my part. If you have a 300A alternator, or know of others who do, charging lead based battery banks of less than say 1200Ah how is yours (or theirs) set up? Maybe I am imagining a problem which doesn't exist?

To be honest the more I think about it the more I think a change of battery type to LiFePo4 is probably the best, albeit rather expensive, solution.

[rusty_nail]

where are Ben-e-boy or matfew when you need them?

[PeeBee]

I think you will find cuppa that the Ctek setup came before the 300amp alternator and was simply an oversight. It wasn't added to deal with the alternator but rather was a victim of the upgrade.

I expect that the 400w solar setup is there for long term static touring rather than a clunky backup to the 300amp alternator. 150ah a day from solar is a great delivery for most things I'd have thought. Way more than I have and plenty for most requirements.

I appreciate the concern over the capacity for the batteries to accept the 300amps for sure. They really need to be connected in series and the full bank getbtue full 300ampd as a shared load I reckon. There is so much supply that I see No reason ever to isolate all 300amps to a single battery.

300amps.... let us just contemplate that. Just Wow! That is effectively limitless. 90mm or even 120mm cable is the go I think.

OK, more or less as defined above is correct. The solar is simply for base camping, nothing else.

What is also necessary to mention is that the alternator may be rated at 300amps, however its output is ramped up against the load, so for example, I had the car idling in the driveway this afternoon and it was outputting 12 amps. I checked with with another identical meter and a dc tong tester, and then when a load is applied to the system, such as headlights, high beams and one light bar the ammeter showed a charge rate of 35 amps. I expect my nominal amp draw to be around the 60 - 70 amps with everything running, fridge, headlights , a/c driving lights. What will happen then is the alternator has plenty of capacity to then idle away this load. Having the additional rectifiers on board keeps the heat load down per rectifier, hence their efficiency is increased, as is their life. It will be interesting to se how it performs under a winching load.

I think you need to think of the analogy I proposed with the pump and bucket. Its simply electron flow, there is no need for the battery to absorb then redistribute as such. The absorbtion phase is simply for storage.

Currently the charge configuration is alternator to main battery, then a charge lead from crank battery down to the 3 batteries, that are charged in parallel. I simply have a 300amp fuse in line and a 1000amp 100% duty cycle isolation switch at 12VDC to provide the separation until I find something else. I am in discussion with 5 different company's now and the simplest is a 275amp 100% duty rated selector switch that has voltage sensing and preferential charging, all for $240.

Each battery will absorb what it needs, so its not a straight forward situation of 'mechanically splitting' the flow to get even charging, nor is it required as why overcharge a battery - remember, the internal resistance of each battery will vary, as will its discharge profile - they are not clones as such. I don't expect issues under normal operation with heat as such, simply as process heat is a manifestation of the work taking place. Ambient heat is a static degradation regardless of the load put on the system.

Anyway, good conversation guys, great to be able to openly challenge and get feedback from a range of experienced people - a wise old boss of mine once told me, and I have always remember this ' we are never as clever as the group of us', unless you are an Albert Einstein of course.

[Cuppa]

What is also necessary to mention is that the alternator may be rated at 300amps, however its output is ramped up against the load, so for example, I had the car addling in the driveway this afternoon and it was outputting 12 amps. I checked with with another identical meter and a dc tong tester, and then when a load is applied to the system, such as headlights, high beams and one light bar the ammeter showed a charge rate of 35 amps. I expect my nominal amp draw to be around the 60 - 70 amps with everything running, fridge, headlights , a/c driving lights. What will happen then is the alternator has plenty of capacity to then idle away this load. Having the additional rectifiers on board keeps the heat load down per rectifier, hence their efficiency is increased, as is their life. It will be interesting to se how it performs under a winching load.



So are you saying that the alternator has some sort of 'smarts' built in? If so it sounds like a good thing & my concern is unwarranted.

However if the current input into the batteries relies upon the batteries internal resistance I am still confused. I know batteries will increase resistance as they become more fully charged (hence the reason alternators cannot generally charge a battery above around 80% & the need for smart chargers to take SoC up to 100% within a practical timeframe). However when below that resistance induced barrier level to further charging lead battery manufacturers still recommend a max charge rate of 20% of the batteries capacity. I assume there is good reason for this & if so still question a high amp alternator pumping in significantly more than the 20% figure. It may well be that the resistance builds quickly so that the higher output from the alternator can only be used (just as an example) for the first few minutes of charging of a significantly discharged battery & thus do no damage. If that is the case it rather defeats the purpose of the such a high output alternator. Lithium would accept the full output & result in very fast charging.

[PeeBee]

Do you think the D250S may have got damaged?

If you're getting rid of that and it's OK I'm interested.

I suspect it is damaged, simply because it was showing two orange lights on the solar panel to battery link, however the main green function light was gree, I am more than happy t send it to you, no issue as its no good to me with this system anyway. PM me with an address and I will box it up and send it across, sort of a belated Xmas pressy to you!!!

[PeeBee]

So are you saying that the alternator has some sort of 'smarts' built in? If so it sounds like a good thing & my concern is unwarranted.

However if the current input into the batteries relies upon the batteries internal resistance I am still confused. I know batteries will increase resistance as they become more fully charged (hence the reason alternators cannot generally charge a battery above around 80% & the need for smart chargers to take SoC up to 100% within a practical timeframe). However when below that resistance induced barrier level to further charging lead battery manufacturers still recommend a max charge rate of 20% of the batteries capacity. I assume there is good reason for this & if so still question a high amp alternator pumping in significantly more than the 20% figure. It may well be that the resistance builds quickly so that the higher output from the alternator can only be used (just as an example) for the first few minutes of charging, if that. If that is the case it rather defeats the purpose of the such a high output alternator. Lithium would accept the full output & result in very fast charging.

Cuppa, the charge profile of a battery is based on its charge voltage. Without a 'smart regulator' or controller the alternator is pumping in volts against the capacity limit of the battery and the actual charge voltage of the alternator. Motor vehicle alternators are limited to around a 5-8% duty cycle, to ensure 1) they don't boil the battery, and secondly it prolongs the life of the battery since 99.( % of automotive batteries will see minimal depth of discharge over their short life and simply calcify up into death. There are a range of compounding issues here and some are not related to this situation. Right now, my alternator will charge to a max voltage of circa 14.8V. How long it stays at 14.8 depends on the state of charge of the battery(bank). Once the battery voltage tops out, the regulator in the alternator ramps back the excitation voltage and reduces the charge output - this is a bog standard brown dog alternator activity. Aftermarket dual battery systems analyse the battery, apply charge profiles that optimise the potential to raise the battery voltage or storage capacity from circa 80% to close to 100%. I had a Sterling Power system that utilised an externally regulated alternator and it would charge that battery bank up to
supposedly 100%' and it was one of the front runners in the marine industry for battery care and advanced chargers. I don't expect to get any better than 80% of 400a/hr capacity is perhaps a better way to put it, unless I employ a smart charger system to optimise the final 20%. I am not running the Sterling System as they are a pig of a company to deal with in the UK, and nothing was repairable - a Sterling Pro Charger was $1000 20 yrs ago, and a unit today to handle the 300amp load is circa $2000, and its a big mutha of a thing as well.
The 20% may be a conservative industry figure to ensure people are not overheating their batteries during high charge rates. As stated, its unlikely the 300 amps will come into play unless I am winching and the batteries are being rapidly depleted. If this happens, I am expecting some battery life reduction, but what %, no idea. A once off flogging might have no effect - this is heading back into Depth of Discharge territory again. I mentioned the internal resistance issue in light of the batteries being manufactured with different tolerances and they are a very crude device.

Regards Lithium, I know absolutely nothing about these batteries, except they are lighter, have great recovery capability and can withstand high DOD cycling without detriment, plus are circa 3-4 times the current AGM price. I will flog my batteries and then maybe swap to lithium, but suspect it won't be for at least 8 - 10 yrs based on my previous battery life - I look after them.

[Cuppa]

It sounds like you know what you are getting into PeeBee,

The issue which concerned me, the over 20% charging current with possible shortened battery lifespan is a matter of choice. Fair enough.

It is also a matter of choice to accept shortened battery lifespan resulting from only charging them to 80% Soc on a regular basis. It is my belief that this is the reason that people generally get 5 years or less from crank batteries.

Alternatives which result in longer battery lifespan may well not be cost effective however.

If you were so inclined I for one would be interested to hear how the system works out over time.

[PeeBee]

It sounds like you know what you are getting into PeeBee,

The issue which concerned me, the over 20% charging current with possible shortened battery lifespan is a matter of choice. Fair enough.

It is also a matter of choice to accept shortened battery lifespan resulting from only charging them to 80% Soc on a regular basis. It is my belief that this is the reason that people generally get 5 years or less from crank batteries.

Alternatives which result in longer battery lifespan may well not be cost effective however.

If you were so inclined I for one would be interested to hear how the system works out over time.

I will absolutely let you know if this works out for the better, the worse or otherwise. Since I cooked both the CTEK units, or at least I believe I did - 10G might want to test the 250 out, what is a simple high efficiency solar panel controller for 400w of panels/ I did use a Bobier unit many years ago, however it has 'robbing' me of a full volt during the control and regulation of the panels. I am not focused on cost, however would like a balance with performance is perhaps a better way to put it.

[Cuppa]

I will absolutely let you know if this works out for the better, the worse or otherwise. Since I cooked both the CTEK units, or at least I believe I did - 10G might want to test the 250 out, what is a simple high efficiency solar panel controller for 400w of panels/ I did use a Bobier unit many years ago, however it has 'robbing' me of a full volt during the control and regulation of the panels. I am not focused on cost, however would like a balance with performance is perhaps a better way to put it.

The Victron MPPT 100/30 should keep you happy & at reasonable price on ebay. (Around $250) https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-SmartSolar-charge-controller-MPPT-100-30-&-100-50-EN.pdf

[PeeBee]

The Victron MPPT 100/30 should keep you happy & at reasonable price on ebay. (Around $250) https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-SmartSolar-charge-controller-MPPT-100-30-&-100-50-EN.pdf

Thanks Cuppa, just bought one. Didn't want the options so just the stand alone unit.

[MudRunnerTD]

My expectation of the solar matches yours MR, I only mentioned it as a 'clunky alternative to re-charging a 400Ah battery bank if it had been severely depleted by winching use, if the 300A alternator were not used. It could be a 3 day job. I can't see what connecting the 400Ah batteries in series would achieve - it would not increase the stored capacity, only the voltage (although this would allow for smaller connecting cables). The need for current regulation of a 300Amp alternator feeding into the 400AH battery ban would remain surely. The reason I suggested the possible need to have the 300A alternator only switched through to the 400Ah battery bank was in the absence of any means of regulating the output in normal circumstances when winch9ng was not occurring. I didn't suggest (I dont think) that it should be connected to a single battery, (Ie the crank battery) as this would have pretty much the same issue. What I did suggest was a two alternator setup, with the 300A one restricted to winch use only, unless there were some means of regulating it's current output.

I don't understand your comment about a shared load - shared with what?

It is all conjecture on my part. If you have a 300A alternator, or know of others who do, charging lead based battery banks of less than say 1200Ah how is yours (or theirs) set up? Maybe I am imagining a problem which doesn't exist?

To be honest the more I think about it the more I think a change of battery type to LiFePo4 is probably the best, albeit rather expensive, solution.

Hi mate, I am.on the phone so can't be shagged scrubbing out all the text but my comment regarding shared load and running the batteries in series was applying the logic (which is all I have) that if there is 400amps of battery storage available then allow theb300amp to be delivered to all of it at once rather than one at a time until each fills.

1 x 400lt tank will fill evenly rather than 4 x 100lt tanks 1 at a time. This may be truly floored but makes sense in my head. I am way way out of my comfort zone. Phil is all over it and clearly knows his stuff. I have learnt plenty here. I am.juat trying to apply some "First Principles" as this is how I function when developing Engineering strategies for work. You guys are covering plenty of detail on the fine points though.

[Cuppa]

Hi mate, I am.on the phone so can't be shagged scrubbing out all the text but my comment regarding shared load and running the batteries in series was applying the logic (which is all I have) that if there is 400amps of battery storage available then allow theb300amp to be delivered to all of it at once rather than one at a time until each fills.

1 x 400lt tank will fill evenly rather than 4 x 100lt tanks 1 at a time. This may be truly floored but makes sense in my head. I am way way out of my comfort zone. Phil is all over it and clearly knows his stuff. I have learnt plenty here. I am.juat trying to apply some "First Principles" as this is how I function when developing Engineering strategies for work. You guys are covering plenty of detail on the fine points though.

No worries MR. Your thinking about 'shared storage' makes sense. It is actually the normal way to charge multiple batteries - to have them connected together in a battery bank. Essentially two ways of doing that, either in parallel, or in series.
By connecting them in parallel the nominal voltage of the single battery is maintained & the amp hours of the single battery multiplied the number of batteries.
By connecting them in series the nominal voltage of the single battery is multiplied by the number of batteries & the amp hours remains that of the single battery.
Both still hold the same amount of 'power' but with 24v the amp hours consumed by an appliance are halved using 24v compared to 12v. This is why higher voltage systems can use thinner cables.

Importantly (in the context of our discussion) by connecting the batteries together, the charging source treats the batteries as a 'single battery'. which is what your thinking had correctly led you to. When you had referred to load sharing it confused me, as this generally refers to sharing 'load', ie what is being powered by the battery, so I was trying to imagine something to essentially take the place of the Winch (when it is not in use) to share the load. Eg. A bloody great heater hanging off the rear bumper! :D

7988279883

[PeeBee]

I suspect it is damaged, simply because it was showing two orange lights on the solar panel to battery link, however the main green function light was gree, I am more than happy t send it to you, no issue as its no good to me with this system anyway. PM me with an address and I will box it up and send it across, sort of a belated Xmas pressy to you!!!

OK, PM sent, nothing heard back, assume you don't want the unit, so its going in the bin.

[10G]

I suspect it is damaged, simply because it was showing two orange lights on the solar panel to battery link, however the main green function light was gree, I am more than happy t send it to you, no issue as its no good to me with this system anyway. PM me with an address and I will box it up and send it across, sort of a belated Xmas pressy to you!!!

Sorry mate, I only just saw the post. I'll PM you my address. Many thanks mate.

[PeeBee]

Sorry mate, I only just saw the post. I'll PM you my address. Many thanks mate.

OK< no problems, will post it tomorrow, hope it works for you.

[MudRunnerTD]

Well I noticed an offcut of dyneema 8 had hanging on a hook in the shed. Off a larger roll I bought a few years ago. Thought I should do something with that!!

Finished with a brand new 5m winch extension rope in 10mm Dyneema.

Very happy. Good handy length.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/91.jpg



Sent from my SM-G977B using Tapatalk

[10G]

OK< no problems, will post it tomorrow, hope it works for you.

Thanks Phil, I'll see how I get on with it. Probably open it up and take a look and a sniff, see what the go is.

[Cuppa]

Well I noticed an offcut of dyneema 8 had hanging on a hook in the shed. Off a larger roll I bought a few years ago. Thought I should do something with that!!

Finished with a brand new 5m winch extension rope in 10mm Dyneema.

Very happy. Good handy length.


Splicing would be a handy skill to have.

[MudRunnerTD]

Splicing would be a handy skill to have.

YouTube is your friend mate

[MB]

Still in the shed working away on mods for our upcoming trip when the phone pings.....:-)
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/92.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[PeeBee]

Still in the shed working away on mods for our upcoming trip when the phone pings.....:-)
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/92.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cant be as painful as my old boxer who ate 2 loaves of bread and a box of Crispy crème donuts one afternoon in under an hour when we left the house, pinched them off the kitchen bench. We got home to find him lounged on his back in his big old chair with a gut the size of a 8 month pregnant woman - he wasn't happy, and neither was my daughter as it was a full dozen donuts she had bought for a party that night, bloody dogs eh!

[MudRunnerTD]

Still in the shed working away on mods for our upcoming trip when the phone pings.....:-)
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/92.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bhahahahahaha. I remember our forum Knockwood trip years ago. AB had been bragging all day about this huge high quality Eye Fillet he had that he was going to cook that night . All sitring around the fire and he pulls it out and parades this massive slab of meat
Envy everywhere right.....

Idiot put it down on his seat to sort out the fry pan and Jonno's dog pinched it in a blink! GORRNNN. So Farking Funny!!! To this day we have a laugh about it.

AB was shattered. I'm.pissing myself writing this. Lol.

[MB]

Compressor and locker panel down below back in, UHF wired up and hidden under the dash with removable handset idea as per Mudski’s great idea IIRC.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/94.jpg
Sockets on each side rear door iPady ready for Littlens longer hauling runs as per MudrunnerTD’s great idea!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/95.jpg
A rushed 50A but now fused 40A Jaycar Anderson prepackaged now conjoined system to the rear for secondary fridge/26L Engel freezer for Mrs MB’s premade cryovac slimline dinner goodies.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/96.jpg
Repurposed my first ever old GU utes ‘Great White’ faithful lights for some night tracks to illuminate the edges a little better.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/97.jpg





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[pollenface]

I piggy-backed a 10w flood light from the reverse light wiring. Pretty impressed with myself.

[MudRunnerTD]

So i have been doing a few things to the GU the last couple of weeks. Getting ready for a family trip next week.

I got a full sized perspex cargo barrier years ago for the GU and never fitted it l. In have but it down the suit the drawers and stripped and repainted it.

Finally some protection for the family. Stoked with the Perspex.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/98.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/99.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/100.jpg

I also bought a big inverter years ago and have never used it. Well this trip I want to charge Makita 18v batteries and drone batteries so a 3rd battery will be handy.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/101.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/102.jpg

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http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/104.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/105.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/106.jpg

Refitted the water tank for the back door too and it has all gone in well.

Today I wired in a sub board and breaker fuse blocks for the 3elrd battery and me the inverter. 2 x q00 amp breakers and a fused block

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/107.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/108.jpg

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http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/110.jpg

And just because there is never enough I added a couple of semi permanent twin 2.4amp usbs extra for the kids. More devices means more slots. These will work great.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/111.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/112.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/113.jpg



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[rusty_nail]

So i have been doing a few things to the GU the last couple of weeks. Getting ready for a family trip next week.

I got a full sized perspex cargo barrier years ago for the GU and never fitted it l. In have but it down the suit the drawers and stripped and repainted it.

Finally some protection for the family. Stoked with the Perspex.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/98.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/99.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/100.jpg

I also bought a big inverter years ago and have never used it. Well this trip I want to charge Makita 18v batteries and drone batteries so a 3rd battery will be handy.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/101.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/102.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/103.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/104.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/105.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/106.jpg

Refitted the water tank for the back door too and it has all gone in well.

Today I wired in a sub board and breaker fuse blocks for the 3elrd battery and me the inverter. 2 x q00 amp breakers and a fused block

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/107.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/108.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/109.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/110.jpg

And just because there is never enough I added a couple of semi permanent twin 2.4amp usbs extra for the kids. More devices means more slots. These will work great.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/111.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/112.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/113.jpg



Sent from my SM-G977B using TapatalkFar out! Who are you and what have you done with MudRunnerTD if only your comp truck and shed came together in just one simple post!!!

All jokes aside mate youve been bloody busy, well done, the mods look amazing

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[MB]

Reconfigured the old family wagon this afternoon since removing the Titan 85kg drawers a month or so ago now.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/117.jpg
Managed to squeeze in so far:
80L Waeco old fridge
26L Engel freezer
2 x 20L HDPE water jerry cans
1 x camp stove
1 x camp table
1 x 120W Waeco old solar kit
&
4 x Expedition boxes up top.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/118.jpg
Will fill in all the leftover nooks and crannies tomorrow now with bits and bobs and reckon sleeping bags and self inflator mattresses should jam up on top of 3 x Expedition boxes to the ceiling before dropping in the final fourth awesome box!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/119.jpg




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[MB]

Approximately 1.5 sheets of ply used, and is relatively easy to install/remove if need be as long as you have the left barn door aftermarket bracket to open wider than stupid GU OEM design!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/120.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/121.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/122.jpg




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[10G]

Approximately 1.5 sheets of ply used, and is relatively easy to install/remove if need be as long as you have the left barn door aftermarket bracket to open wider than stupid GU OEM design!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/120.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/121.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/122.jpg




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Champion effort MB, great work. It's harder than you think cramming stuff in the back, you've done well.

[Winnie]

I like that a lot MB, very well done and practical! I am thinking of making some changes to my rear setup.

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[0-TJ-0]

x 2 on that MB . I've been thinking of what to replace those drawers with. Handy, but otherwise just weight and storage hogs. That looks super simple and practical(and cheap!). Good job

[MB]

Cheers Blokes!
Forgot to add that I needed to extend forward 80mm this specific brand GU cargo barrier to fit the second rear row of Expedition boxes.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/123.jpg
They fit like a pair of good gloves now [emoji106][emoji106]
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/124.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/125.jpg
FWIW: The ply box outer dimensions today were:
1125mm Wide x 930mm Deep x 540mm High and used 3 of the 6mm OEM bolt holes in the floor to secure down.
(There is a niggly notch on the floor sheet that needs to be cut out located on the right side pictured below)
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/126.jpg





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[MB]

Great little stash spot for spares:

#Complete set of belts
#Complete set of hoses, including heater ones
#Some thermostats to play around with
#Spare manual hubs (thanks for the lend rusty_nail mate)
#Unfortunately air filter spare doesn’t fit, too fat.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/128.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/129.jpg


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[MB]

Can still access the OEM jack as a backup which was a bit of a fluke :-)
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/130.jpg


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[Mickhead]

Started some serious playing with dawes and needle valve. First attempt a couple of days ago had the boost gauge dancing all over the place. Tigged in a second boost take off point rather than tee into the gauge line and things are looking better!
EGTs are nice, but a boost spike if I floor it from standing.7990179902

[stevemc181]

Pulled the radiator out and gave it a good clean, as I’ve noticed the temps creeping up on the hills. I also put in a TB48 Thermostat, which is a job I never want to do again!. Changed the Tensioner and belt while I was there, will finish it all up tomorrow hopefully.
No wonder she was heating up, still had the remnants of an off track trip stuck in the radiator! Was a mission getting all the spinifex out, but should be good to go now :)

79903

[MB]

Inflated her rear braced airbags to an even 19psi each and we’ll hopefully be highway running true tomorrow with excited Littlens extra weight on the back seat [emoji106][emoji106]
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/141.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/142.jpg


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[Hodge]

Inflated her rear braced airbags to an even 19psi each and we’ll hopefully be highway running true tomorrow with excited Littlens extra weight on the back seat

Have a safe trip Mark and Co. [emoji106]

[PeeBee]

Installed the new Victron MMPT solar controller. Tidied up the raft of cables reporting to the rear battery bank. Got power to all accessories off the rear fuse box. Tomorrow its driving light loom reinstatement, and with luck hook up the new Codan HF.
Tuesday would like to at least make a start on the chassis plating. Wednesday is garage clean up day as back to work Thursday and the wife wants her parking spot back. Its been good having almost 3 solid week to stuff around on the beast.

[MB]

Loaded the Big GU Family Truckster onboard for Jurassic Island Assistance of some Raptor-Pickups :-)
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/152.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/153.jpg






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[Winnie]

Loaded the Big GU Family Truckster onboard for Jurassic Island Assistance of some Raptor-Pickups :-)
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/152.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/01/153.jpg






Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThag guy lives near me, I pass him most days on the way home from work.

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[Winnie]

I put mine over the weigh bridge yesterday, fully loaded for a 2 week family touring holiday, both fuel tanks and water tank full, all passengers on board and it came in at a whopping 3440kg!

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[PeeBee]

Mounted separate fuse boxes under bonnet for ignition triggered and aux battery triggered devices. Hooked up the two aux. high volume 12V fans, hooked up two out of three of the driving light circuits. Tomorrow is the last light bar circuit, then the Codan set up. I don't think the frame plating will get a heads up. I have also installed an amp meter, and its very interesting how much or little the various electrical appliances are drawing - highly recommend this specific meter.

[PeeBee]

I put mine over the weigh bridge yesterday, fully loaded for a 2 week family touring holiday, both fuel tanks and water tank full, all passengers on board and it came in at a whopping 3440kg!

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Does not take long to add up Chris, that's for sure!

[Hodge]

I put mine over the weigh bridge yesterday, fully loaded for a 2 week family touring holiday, both fuel tanks and water tank full, all passengers on board and it came in at a whopping 3440kg!

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Yeah it takes not much at all to get the Patrols over the GVM.

[Winnie]

Does anybody know the GVM of a manual TD42 GQ?

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[nissannewby]

Around 3000kg. I know my old ute was only 3050 or 3150kg.

Edit. Had a look at a few on car sales. Appears TD42 wagons were 2800kg gvm.

[PeeBee]

I contacted Nissan and gave them my VIN. The GVM for a 1997 GQ LWB is 2800kg. The max GVM upgrade in Victoria without stiffening of axle housings is limited to the front and rear axle limits which is 3300kg. Time to throw someone or something out of the car Winnie!!!

When I had to get my car re-engineered after the fiasco in WA with BD, I stripped the back seat out, ran it almost empty of fuel, water tank empty, everything in the rear out including the extra battery, fridge, boxes, took the rear wheel and jack off, everything off the roofrack, side storage boxes under car with oils and other spares - and sill came in at 3160kg from memory for a 3300kg gvm upgrade.

I had to reweigh the car for the brake test as well, and this was another strip down to 3200kg passed brake test, but when I measured the front and rear axles to get data for the spring selection process, which Dobinsons didn't know how that related to their springs, without all the junk out of it, it came in at 3980kg, which is why I am plating the chassis and strengthening the front spring mounts and double strengthening the rears with a PSR kit.!

There is a mob QLD who manufacture a HD front diff housing assy for the Patrolhave a look at in Aug at the Melb 4x4 show, which has a nominal rated load rating 500 - 700kg above factory. They don't do a rea as yet, however the double edged sword is the GCM does not change, so you end up with a vehicle that can be certified for a higher GVM, yet only able to tow a skate board.

[PeeBee]

Wiring tidy up about 95% I reckon, pleased with the outcome, but as mudski suggested, 2 days was a bit ambitious and well off the mark - more like 14 days. Didn't get to the Codan, but all the lights are reinstated and working, as is the thermos fan set up. Still looking for the A/C trigger wire - absolutely no idea where it is hiding. Tidy up of the garage to find the floor againin the morning to hand the garage back to the wife and her car, then wind down for the arvo, back to work/first plane 6am Thursday and back to the mine - 4 weeks off, don't have much drive to head back there to be honest.

[tryan277]

Installed genuine water pump today, old one had a slight movement in the shaft but wasn't leaking.
While the radiator and intercooler were out easy to do.
79924

[Mickhead]

The PPD ebay exhaust arrived monday. Looked nice and shiny, for 600 after ebay 10 % discount I am not expecting much in the way of easy fitment at this time....
Yes, its 3 inch 304 stainless. Picked up tools at 8am today. All nuts and bolts were compliant thanks to Loctite freeze and release.
Welded EGT socket in same place as the one on the old exhaust.
To my utter amazement, everything fitted almost perfectly, with one hanger being a bit too long and needing a trim.
And Nissan, get stuffed to the plick who designed the heat shield.
Tools down at 11am.
What looks like a cat is a tiny hot dog! ( I wanted catless and this is a bonus )
Not overly loud, deeper note.
Dropped EGTs by anpther 80 degrees. No drone.
Cant feel and was not expecting any power gains.
Is good.79987799887998979990

As a total bonus I saw soot around the rearmost exhaust manifold port, the most accessible one. Both nuts were loose, tightened, and now I dont get the angry cockatoo scream when it comes on boost when cold !!!

[jay see]

Yesterday... But anyway

Wanting to get this thing running a little better on petrol I replaced the fuel filter while I had 3/4 tank of fuel. Not quite great, but much better. Must stop running the tank low. Any tips on a good way to clean out the injectors. Was thinking 98 ron with a bottle of injector cleaner, bit of a octane overload. Yeah??

Pulled out the awning to air it out after our little weekend away, keep forgetting.

Wheel rotation. Happy how they are going. About 70,000 km and still have between 8-10 mm of tread. Checked for movement in the front bearings, passenger side good, drivers need a little nip. I did notice that the shaft has movement up and down and in and out, even after I nipped it up, not heaps but enough to flag it. I'll try to get the video
Use the YouTube link.
up.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200128/0a595ee02628234685dbcc410081d974.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200128/01fb84d75992b3bb1fb72b8e06c679b0.jpghttp://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5e2ff7b08be5d/videocompress-067-VID20200127154200.mp4


https://youtu.be/Q8yBpyqDgZo
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[10G]

that's good wear for 70K. 8-10 mm is good, most tyres come out with about 14mm of depth brand new.

[jay see]

My theory is if I've spent that much $$$ I'm going to get the most out of them. With the uneven wear on the front passenger side, l've been doing a 5 wheel rotation every 10k or there abouts.

Sent from my CPH1979 using Tapatalk

[shakey55]

My theory is if I've spent that much $$$ I'm going to get the most out of them. With the uneven wear on the front passenger side, l've been doing a 5 wheel rotation every 10k or there abouts.

Sent from my CPH1979 using Tapatalk

I did this on my last set of Mickey Thompson’s and replaced them at 105k. Best tyres I’ve ever had and was worth the effort looking after them [emoji3581]


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[Mickhead]

Had a quick fling with a NISBIE. It would drop connection after a couple of minutes, and reconnect after it had a rest. Then it died, after getting really hot. Will try again, this has potential :)80028

[shakey55]

I know nothing about these scan tools. In short what do they do and can one be used on a 2005 GU IV 4.2td

Interesting subject


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[Mickhead]

I know nothing about these scan tools. In short what do they do and can one be used on a 2005 GU IV 4.2td

Interesting subject


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Hi Shakey
I have no idea either. Used to using obd2 scanners that just work. Not this jap shyt. They put in an OBD2 socket but it speaks a different language. And they eat whales.
Have a look at buyobd.com.
Cheers, Mick

[PeeBee]

Install the new DCDC charger without the slightest indication of smoke. Start moving gauges around to suit new instro layout - more bloody wiring. If I don't get roped into taking the wife to the Melb Zoo, the intercooler manifold swap is on the cards tomorrow.

[Rossco]

Finished cleaning the bugger, finally got rid of the last of the Balfour swamp silt and goop. . Smells fresh as again [emoji4]

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[mudski]

Finished cleaning the bugger, finally got rid of the last of the Balfour swamp silt and goop. . Smells fresh as again [emoji4]

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Lol. I still haven't cleaned mine after my trip to Robe. Sand everywhere inside the car...

[gazq]

Slapped a shiny new GME tilting mount on to the rig. Guess who now fits in his shed without having to remove the CB antenna. This guy thats who. Also took this chance to run conduit over my entire antenna cable.
80101

[BSRT.Beast]

Ordered a Crosscountry cooler.
The old water to air can be a bit of a worry for somone who basically only does remote stuff alone.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

[10G]

Install the new DCDC charger without the slightest indication of smoke. Start moving gauges around to suit new instro layout - more bloody wiring. If I don't get roped into taking the wife to the Melb Zoo, the intercooler manifold swap is on the cards tomorrow.

Glad to hear take 2 went well Phil, I don't need any more chargers ;-)

[10G]

I gotta remove shims from my swivel hubs this weekend, last thing I'm doing trying to fix death wobbles.

I've heard the lower bearings can be buggers to get back in. Anyone have any pointers?

[threedogs]

Install the new DCDC charger without the slightest indication of smoke. Start moving gauges around to suit new instro layout - more bloody wiring. If I don't get roped into taking the wife to the Melb Zoo, the intercooler manifold swap is on the cards tomorrow.

Hi mate Ive had my DC/DC charger sitting here for a few years now doh
question,,, where did you mount it, I was thinking the kick panel in the
front passenger foot well.

[PeeBee]

Hi mate Ive had my DC/DC charger sitting here for a few years now doh
question,,, where did you mount it, I was thinking the kick panel in the
front passenger foot well.

TD I mounted it on the cargo barrier on the opposite side to the passenger compartment. Its getting busy with all the other gear, but will keep the VASS engineer happy when engineering comes around again.

[MB]

Picked up an OEM Hitachi replacement alternator for Mrs MB’s 19 year old GU so far faithful wagoon.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/02/69.jpg
All seems ready for plug and play install although just noticed slightly different codes on stickers.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/02/70.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/02/71.jpg
Still both 12V - 100A so here’s hoping Hitachi just updated year models ‘A’ & ‘G’ or other warehousing special needs.



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[MB]

FWIW: If any wankers like me out there are suffering from diagnosed limp wrist syndrome and need two hands to wrench one tiny spanner, this works a treat, fair dinkum!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/02/72.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/02/73.jpg
The ‘S’ hook on the little ratchet strap simply lowered behind wedges itself against the block and cantilevers the alternator for tension clicky’s[emoji106][emoji106]


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[mudski]

Your an ideas man @mb


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[MB]

Couldn’t be OEM happier for our family needs, TBH sick to death of mucking around with high performance aftermarket gear on other twucks!

Wagoon was charged via 240v for around a week to bring the old Optima back to life from low 7V getting the girls home alone at night.
2 days left to settle off charge to see result.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/02/74.jpg

A double glow and no diesel revs alternator tickle up for starters.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/02/75.jpg

Brought it up to 950rpm ish tickle.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/02/76.jpg

Brought it up to 1,500rpm ish.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/02/77.jpg

Dropped it back down to idle again now that its giggling after tickles :-)

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/02/78.jpg








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[Cremulator]

MB you might be interested in this...
Wired up this voltage display on the main battery. I'll do another one for the second battery when I have a chance.
I already have a dual voltage gauge on the A pillar but this will be good when parked or charging off solar.
Total cost only $5 for the LCD display and switch. Used some recycled aluminium and bolts.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/02/81.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/02/82.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/02/83.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/02/84.jpg

[MB]

Now that is spot on Legend!!


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[jay see]

Worked out my total fuel consumption once and for all.

First pic is on petrol, second on gas.

Petrol I ran down till I was on the empty line, which left me with about 25L in the tank.

Gas was completely empty.

Add a jerry can and 800km shouldn't be a problem.

Cars booked in for a few things one being to get it to run better on petrol. It's ok once it's up and runing, but after 3000rpm it really comes alive. Tappets haven't adjusted for a while so that should get the figures better.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/02/85.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/02/86.jpg

Sent from my CPH1979 using Tapatalk

[10G]

FWIW: If any wankers like me out there are suffering from diagnosed limp wrist syndrome and need two hands to wrench one tiny spanner, this works a treat, fair dinkum!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/02/72.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/02/73.jpg
The ‘S’ hook on the little ratchet strap simply lowered behind wedges itself against the block and cantilevers the alternator for tension clicky’s[emoji106][emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Gunna be tricky to drive like that MB, specially when turning right.

[10G]

Removed shims from LH swivel hub, got rid of about 80% of my death wobbles.

[threedogs]

Pics to come but finally had my Rasslar rear bar fitted with the
auto open door function, very very happy lol

[10G]

Pics to come but finally had my Rasslar rear bar fitted with the
auto open door function, very very happy lol

Looks fantastic John, you must be happy to finally have it fitted. How long did it take to fit?

You've misspelt Nissan on your hitch mate ;-)

[mudski]

Pics to come but finally had my Rasslar rear bar fitted with the
auto open door function, very very happy lol

Looks great John. I’ve tried on many occasions on contacting Rasslar to get the auto door opening but for my bar but to no avail.

Sorry I didn’t respond to your text too. Just caught me at a busy time at work and I just plain forgot to respond later.


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[Mickhead]

8057280573Dropped in a 100 buck cheapy china subwoofer to go with the 99 buck head unit. Yes, i am a tightass:) but this is a budget build. Even came with remote volume control.
Its no Harman Kardon but for the money it has surprised me. The original door speakers are in place I am happy with the improvements!

[BigRAWesty]

So this happened today...http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/4.jpg

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[Winnie]

So this happened today...http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/4.jpg

Sent from my SM-G977B using TapatalkShit mate, over the pathfinder already?

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[BigRAWesty]

Shit mate, over the pathfinder already?

Sent from my SM-G960F using TapatalkWork upgraded me from the single cab to this..
So yea the pathy will go as we don't need 2 forbies.

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[Winnie]

Work upgraded me from the single cab to this..
So yea the pathy will go as we don't need 2 forbies.

Sent from my SM-G977B using TapatalkNice one!

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[mudski]

Removed the front left OEM manual locking hub as it was getting real hard to lock/unlock. Turns out water had gotten in and rusted up this inside a fair bit. Bloody mad at myself at not servicing these properly. Kinda got lazy with this car over the last 12 months, leaving things not repaired or done any preventative maintenance as Ive had other things on my mind. This is the outcome from neglect.

Not sure if I can save it. We'll see.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/5.jpg

[BigRAWesty]

Nice one!

Sent from my SM-G960F using TapatalkYea pretty chuffed I must say. Hard work does pay off occasionally it seems.

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[Plasnart]

Yea pretty chuffed I must say. Hard work does pay off occasionally it seems.

Sent from my SM-G977B using Tapatalk

Good onya mate! Happy for ya.

[tryan277]

[QUOTE=mudski;799355]Removed the front left OEM manual locking hub as it was getting real hard to lock/unlock. Turns out water had gotten in and rusted up this inside a fair bit. Bloody mad at myself at not servicing these properly. Kinda got lazy with this car over the last 12 months, leaving things not repaired or done any preventative maintenance as Ive had other things on my mind. This is the outcome from neglect.

Not sure if I can save it. We'll see.

Looking at your photo I presume you have completely dismantled the hub. The part with the rotating section that indicates whether its lock or unlocked.
How is this done?
I have looked at mine many times and have no idea how they come apart.

Cheers Trevor

[mudski]

Looking at your photo I presume you have completely dismantled the hub. The part with the rotating section that indicates whether its lock or unlocked.
How is this done?
I have looked at mine many times and have no idea how they come apart.

Cheers Trevor

There is five, or six metal dowels holding the outer gear in the housing. spray a head of CRC or similar around these, turn the hub facing downwards and kind of tap the hub on a flat surface and the pins will start to slide out. Once out the outer gear need to be spun, anti clockwise ( I think) and it winds out, take note of the depth of this gear beforehand as you need to set the depth again when winding it back in. Once it comes out there is a circlip holding the middle section in the outer gear. Remove this circlip and the middle section comes apart.

[10G]

Yea pretty chuffed I must say. Hard work does pay off occasionally it seems.

Sent from my SM-G977B using Tapatalk

Congrats Kallen, that'll be a nice thing to move around in.

[tryan277]

There is five, or six metal dowels holding the outer gear in the housing. spray a head of CRC or similar around these, turn the hub facing downwards and kind of tap the hub on a flat surface and the pins will start to slide out. Once out the outer gear need to be spun, anti clockwise ( I think) and it winds out, take note of the depth of this gear beforehand as you need to set the depth again when winding it back in. Once it comes out there is a circlip holding the middle section in the outer gear. Remove this circlip and the middle section comes apart.

Thankyou Mudski. So simple, but not knowing the secret, if I was desperate I would have wrecked the assembly trying to get it apart.

Cheers Trevor

[jay see]

Got the patrol back yesterday afternoon after being at 4x4 Obsession. Finally got the power steering box replaced and thanks to mudski fitted up the drag link. Had them have a look at the front driver side bearing, turns out it needed to be repacked. I just kept nipping it up every time it needed it. Also got them to look at why it was running like dog on petrol that turned out to be the fuel pump was low on voltage below 3,000rpm.

Must admit that it's now driving and feeling the best that's it's been for a long time.

Sent from my CPH1979 using Tapatalk

[mudski]

Got the patrol back yesterday afternoon after being at 4x4 Obsession. Finally got the power steering box replaced and thanks to mudski fitted up the drag link. Had them have a look at the front driver side bearing, turns out it needed to be repacked. I just kept nipping it up every time it needed it. Also got them to look at why it was running like dog on petrol that turned out to be the fuel pump was low on voltage below 3,000rpm.

Must admit that it's now driving and feeling the best that's it's been for a long time.

Sent from my CPH1979 using Tapatalk

Drag Link? Uhm, can you remind me why you are thanking me?

[jay see]

Drag Link? Uhm, can you remind me why you are thanking me?Shit. Now you've got me thinking. It was a long time ago. I think someone gave it to you but you had one or it didn't suit yours. Ahh I don't know.

Well if it wasn't you, thank you to the mystery person.

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[Hodge]

Drag Link? Uhm, can you remind me why you are thanking me?Hahaha[emoji28]
Checked under your patrol lately mark ? Might be missing a draglink.

[mudski]

Shit. Now you've got me thinking. It was a long time ago. I think someone gave it to you but you had one or it didn't suit yours. Ahh I don't know.

Well if it wasn't you, thank you to the mystery person.

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Ahh no. Thank MB . It was the steel guard thingo'. I gave it to you on our last camp trip. He gave it to me and said if if didn't fit pass it on.

[jay see]

Ahh no. Thank MB . It was the steel guard thingo'. I gave it to you on our last camp trip. He gave it to me and said if if didn't fit pass it on.Nah mate.

The drag link was easy a couple of years ago.



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[jay see]

Hahaha[emoji28]
Checked under your patrol lately mark ? Might be missing a draglink.[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

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[mudski]

Nah mate.

The drag link was easy a couple of years ago.



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Hmm my brain is farked from too much of the fermented corn stuff! Lol. I barely remember what I did yesterday sometimes.

[Bovril]

Small things, but satisfying.
New run of decent thickness cable to a distribution block in the back. USB charging socket and voltmeter fitted. Then 12v charging sockets under the cubby box for passengers in the middle row.

That's a couple of niggles resolved.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/13.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/14.jpg

[threedogs]

Looks fantastic John, you must be happy to finally have it fitted. How long did it take to fit?

You've misspelt Nissan on your hitch mate ;-)

You are first person to notice it ha ha ha
Ive also since fitted a silicon spindle cover
fitting by one person took about 6hrs all up

[10G]

Yep, again very nice. Do you slip the holder over that silicon cover??

[mudski]

I just used, electrical tape around mine John. Didn't know you could buy an actual cover.

[Hodge]

I just used, electrical tape around mine John. Didn't know you could buy an actual cover.My kaymar bar arrived with two of them.
Theyre actually a very neat fit.

[gazq]

I made a maxtrax highlift jack bracket and a bit of a DIY post about it.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?48298-DIY-Maxtrax-mounting-brackets-to-high-lift-jack

80609

[Hodge]

Gave the ol' TD some fresh oil and filters for her 150k birthday.
Drivetrain lubes tomorrow.

[tryan277]

Pulled one of my FW Hubs apart today (thanks to mudski on how they come apart)
A bit grotty inside where the spring is.

806828068380684

A bit cleaner now.

8068580686

One question, is it worth while getting the circlip out that can be seen in the second last photo to totally dismantle the hub?

Cheers Trevor

[VK2FMIA]

New spark for the old girl today. Bought from a small town garage for $30 less than that super "cheap" place sells them for. Pays to #buyfromthebush.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/108.jpg

Sent from my campfire using smoke signals.

[mudski]

Pulled one of my FW Hubs apart today (thanks to mudski on how they come apart)
A bit grotty inside where the spring is.

806828068380684

A bit cleaner now.

8068580686

One question, is it worth while getting the circlip out that can be seen in the second last photo to totally dismantle the hub?

Cheers Trevor

I did. Its quite easy. There is a square oring that goes around the plastic part that you turn to lock the hubs, so try to avoid using and petrol or the likes to clean the hub up as you will destroy the oring.
Yours looks pretty clean. I just regreased in there to help stop water ingress...

[Cremulator]

Not to the Patrol, but made some jumper cables for it, as I didn't have a set.
3 gauge / 25.72mm² I think it is, 5 metres long.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/109.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/110.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/111.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/112.jpg

[Brissieboy]

Looks like reasonably decent clips too. Most of the ones available these days are almost paper thin.

[Cremulator]

Looks like reasonably decent clips too. Most of the ones available these days are almost paper thin.Yeh they have a decent spring and solid jaws.

[jay see]

Saw that Repco had 50% off on all maxitrack a few days ago and I needed a new UHF cable. Instead I brought this for $35.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/128.jpg

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[jay see]

Fitted the above aerial.

While pulling out the old cable the radio went out, that gave me another job to do. Out with the radio to find the disconnected wire. Wasn't to bad, now setting it all back to how it was is going to take even longer.

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[10G]

Some radios stop when you disconnect the areal cable, I reckon it's an earthing thing.

[MB]

Refueled another 250L under tray via 24/7 unmanned tap & go go zero contact, albeit Glen 20 is my new Bushman’s first response handle squirt [emoji106][emoji106]




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[jack]

Washed it, still has red dirt coming out of the door weep holes. Great memories!

[26PSI]

installed sound deadener and insulation in doors.
still got the mass noise liner to go before the vinyl goes in.

[gingerboy]

Finally got around to reseating flat roof rack a bit further back and replaced all exterior globes with LEDs. Happy as!

[mudski]

Tried to winch a tree today. But nup. The last tree I winched was a big pine tree and that killed it. Nearly finished the high mount.


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[swamprat]

shortened transmission input shaft & fitted trans to rear of 6bt to see how far i can move engine/ trans back

[jay see]

What else can you do when Melbourne puts on weather like this and you can't go anywhere.

Wash, wash and wash.

With alot less drivers (dickheads) on the roads, I'll give the Clubsport a run this week to work.

Also yesterday put both batteries on a 240v charge.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/04/59.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/04/60.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/04/61.jpg

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[mudski]

What else can you do when Melbourne puts on weather like this and you can't go anywhere.

Wash, wash and wash.

With alot less drivers (dickheads) on the roads, I'll give the Clubsport a run this week to work.

Also yesterday put both batteries on a 240v charge.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/04/59.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/04/60.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/04/61.jpg

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Was there a special on at the local nursery on Yuccas? :p

[jay see]

Was there a special on at the local nursery on Yuccas? :pF@#ken tell me about it. Should see the house nextdoor. It's a pretty long street and just about every house has yuccas or palm trees or both. Front of my house has both and I'm hanging to rip it all up and start again. Doesn't help that the houses are around the 10-15 year range and so are most of the plants.

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[jack]

F@#ken tell me about it. Should see the house nextdoor. It's a pretty long street and just about every house has yuccas or palm trees or both. Front of my house has both and I'm hanging to rip it all up and start again. Doesn't help that the houses are around the 10-15 year range and so are most of the plants.

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Mine grew six metres in about 12 years, all came as gifts in pots. If you want to remove them I finally found out how to kill them.
First couple I dug up and pulled out with the winch, bad move. Had literally 100s of suckers come up in the next couple of years.
The really massive one I cut down to ground level with the chainsaw, it was in three forks at ground level. Painted each stump immediately with straight glyphosate (roundup) and no suckers after 12 months.
Don’t forget to strip down the chainsaw and clean immediately as they are wet and sticky.

[mudski]

F@#ken tell me about it. Should see the house nextdoor. It's a pretty long street and just about every house has yuccas or palm trees or both. Front of my house has both and I'm hanging to rip it all up and start again. Doesn't help that the houses are around the 10-15 year range and so are most of the plants.

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Yuccas,palms and pines I hate with a passion. I seriously don't see the attraction in any of them. I have no pines left on my block and one yucca left, which will be gone soon.

[MB]

Yuccas be gone, indigenous eucalypts are the best :-)
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/04/68.jpg


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[Rossco]

Far out poor old Manna Gum. Make it home OK?

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[MB]

Too easy mate, just let the tyres down to -40psi on the old Q :-)


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[Rossco]

Though the creek lol [emoji6] . .

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[mudski]

Yuccas be gone, indigenous eucalypts are the best :-)
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/04/68.jpg


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Goddammit! I need some firewood!

[Rossco]

Goddammit! I need some firewood!Plenty down on one tree hill rd by the looks of it. . Does that make it 0 tree hill now?? . .

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[MB]

Gotta love the Dandenongs!


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[PeeBee]

Guys, was under the passenger side front dash area today and noticed the fan has come adrift from a heater box - I am guessing. What would cause this - the foam is perished, at the interface of the two boxes and everything appears firmly mounted.80926

[MB]

Wondering if the persished foam isn’t just like a flexible joint design from the factory Phil mate. You’ve had her way back since then and still securely mounted, maybe a ‘Clark Rubber’ profile matching visit is on the cards?


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[MB]

Tested the old soft-roaders coils out this afternoon hauling a massive 2,000L of 78% N7, 21% O2 and a small mixture of some other crud :-)
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/04/86.jpg


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[mudski]

Guys, was under the passenger side front dash area today and noticed the fan has come adrift from a heater box - I am guessing. What would cause this - the foam is perished, at the interface of the two boxes and everything appears firmly mounted.80926

Foam looks like its just perished. I think it would be quite easy to make up your own.

[mudski]

See the part in red...
80927

[mudnut]

Easy peasy to get some slightly denser than normal foam and cut a gasket. Bin there, done that, Phil.

[PeeBee]

Many thanks guys, great bunch here. I was wondering if it could just fail, but I guess I have not been in it really since the rebuild began, I would not have noticed. I will have a look at the difficulty of getting a home made jobbie installed, however might ultimately default to a factory. Mark, is that pic from the overseas website or a local aussie buy from Nissan?

[Rossco]

Hey Phil, I think it is fairly comon for the foam to disintegrate with age. Mine was pretty shot when I did the rebuild just used some door sealing strip stuff from bunnings seemed to work well.

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[mudski]

Many thanks guys, great bunch here. I was wondering if it could just fail, but I guess I have not been in it really since the rebuild began, I would not have noticed. I will have a look at the difficulty of getting a home made jobbie installed, however might ultimately default to a factory. Mark, is that pic from the overseas website or a local aussie buy from Nissan?

That is from the Nissanfast program. The part number is at the bottom of the pic. I checked the part number and it seems to be discontinued. If you ring your local Ni$$an stealer and get them to check if there's any still available from any dealers.

[mudski]

Hey Phil, I think it is fairly comon for the foam to disintegrate with age. Mine was pretty shot when I did the rebuild just used some door sealing strip stuff from bunnings seemed to work well.

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I did the same with my GU when I had to change the heater core. I just used the door seal stuff from Bunnings as mine were pretty shot aswell.

[PeeBee]

I did the same with my GU when I had to change the heater core. I just used the door seal stuff from Bunnings as mine were pretty shot aswell.

Thanks Mark, I have some 20mm soft draft seal so with shove that in and see how it goes.

[10G]

Tested the old soft-roaders coils out this afternoon hauling a massive 2,000L of 78% N7, 21% O2 and a small mixture of some other crud :-)
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/04/86.jpg


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Love that ute MB, looks great.

How come the tanks are on the tool boxes???

[MB]

Was just being silly 10G mate.
Had to cart em home empty for Pony trough tanks.


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[mudski]

Yeah I don’t think this is supposed to happen. [emoji38]
80938


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[Yeti's Beast]

Yeah I don’t think this is supposed to happen. [emoji38]
80938


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Time to buy a BT50 Mark [emoji1787]


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[tryan277]

"Yeah I don’t think this is supposed to happen."
What made you decide you needed to pull it apart?

Perhaps you need to read this thread :)
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28969-DIY-CV-and-Swivel-Hub-Rebuild-Thread

Getting the passengers side axle in is really a pain in the A...
Done it a few times... still get a leak. Last time dropped the level of oil in diff to reduce the "seeping/leaking past the axel seal"
Going to try the seals that promise to be the bees knees next time

Cheers
Trevor

[mudski]

Time to buy a BT50 Mark [emoji1787]


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I would rather masturbate with a cheese grater...


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[mudski]

"Yeah I don’t think this is supposed to happen."
What made you decide you needed to pull it apart?

Perhaps you need to read this thread :)
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28969-DIY-CV-and-Swivel-Hub-Rebuild-Thread

Getting the passengers side axle in is really a pain in the A...
Done it a few times... still get a leak. Last time dropped the level of oil in diff to reduce the "seeping/leaking past the axel seal"
Going to try the seals that promise to be the bees knees next time

Cheers
Trevor

It all started with one of the OEM manual hubs had let a little water in and it got a little rusty in there. Stripped it, cleaned it out, then decided to do the other side. Stuff happened in life for a bit, so I put my auto hubs back on but there was no innards to them. I chucked them on just to stop the crap from getting in. Only done maybe 100ks since and now the axle seal is shot. It wasn't real good to start with, this has just accelerated the issue. The end of the axle shaft was just "floating in the hub" with no support at the end of the axle shaft. Because the auto hub I put back on had no guts in it.

[mudski]

Removed the double din head unit and threw it in the bin. Apparently they don’t like fists. Lol. Piece of cheap Chinese Eonon shite!
Also found a broken exhaust bracket. Same one has busted twice before.
So now on the hunt for a new double din head unit.
80954
It’s good that I work at a place that sells exhaust parts. Found a flange so I’ll cut this and make a decent bracket.
80955


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[threedogs]

I would rather masturbate with a cheese grater...


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Pics please, you know the rules
You know this is going to hurt, idea
is to keep the blood in ouch

[mudski]

Pics please, you know the rules
You know this is going to hurt, idea
is to keep the blood in ouch

Pm sent! [emoji2957]


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[mudski]

So the upper control arm is fubar. The middle adjuster bit just slides in and out of the end. The thread doesn’t even catch. My choices are. Weld the fecker in and replace the bushes as they are flogged our. Or get a new arm. Which might be exy. As I also need to buy a double din head unit.
Hmmmm.80960
80961



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[MB]

Might still have some OEM arms hiding in the shed somewhere Mark mate if you’d like to hunt for them!
EDIT: Forgot your beast has a 4”+ lift.
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[mudski]

Might still have some OEM arms hiding in the shed somewhere Mark mate if you’d like to hunt for them!
EDIT: Forgot your beast has a 4”+ lift.
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Thanks Mark. Yeah I need an adjustable arm.
I also forgot I need to buy a new aux battery too. Ugh! Sway bar rose joints are all fudged too. Bloody hell. The boss ain’t gonna be happy....


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[nissannewby]

Thanks Mark. Yeah I need an adjustable arm.
I also forgot I need to buy a new six battery too. Ugh! Sway bar rose joints are all fudged too. Bloody hell. The boss ain’t gonna be happy....


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Just weld it. It will still be adjustable as such you will just have to remove one end to do so. This is no different to what superior and others off anyway.

They don't tend to be adjusted after they have been set anyway and even if it did require some small adjustment with new bushes it should not matter as it will only be a very small amount. Like half or one turn.

[mudski]

Just weld it. It will still be adjustable as such you will just have to remove one end to do so. This is no different to what superior and others off anyway.

They don't tend to be adjusted after they have been set anyway and even if it did require some small adjustment with new bushes it should not matter as it will only be a very small amount. Like half or one turn.

The thread is pretty flogged out. I’m concerned the weld just around the end to the nut won’t be enough and it will break again. It was a big pain to get this rod out as the Long range sub sits around and under it.
I was thinking of maybe drilling two holes in the female threaded end and also weld in there to the male threaded section as well. Maybe. Gotta work out the price of two new bushes and my time to remove and refit and also repair the rod compared to just putting a new one on. Plus I don’t need a bent rod. Which has put the extra strain on the threaded section too because of the angle. I can get away with a straight rod here.
I’ll sleep on it.


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[10G]

You got a long range sub tank Mark? What brand?

[mudski]

You got a long range sub tank Mark? What brand?

Got no idea mate sorry. Bought it off a member here many moons ago for nix.

[nissannewby]

The thread is pretty flogged out. I’m concerned the weld just around the end to the nut won’t be enough and it will break again. It was a big pain to get this rod out as the Long range sub sits around and under it.
I was thinking of maybe drilling two holes in the female threaded end and also weld in there to the male threaded section as well. Maybe. Gotta work out the price of two new bushes and my time to remove and refit and also repair the rod compared to just putting a new one on. Plus I don’t need a bent rod. Which has put the extra strain on the threaded section too because of the angle. I can get away with a straight rod here.
I’ll sleep on it.


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Yep plug welding would be effective and my next suggestion. I would drill all the way through in one spot and say 20mm further away drill all the way through again but perpendicular to the first hole. The just fill with weld.

But as you say a new one will likely be less hassle once you factor in the cost and effort to replace the bushes.

[mudski]

Yep plug welding would be effective and my next suggestion. I would drill all the way through in one spot and say 20mm further away drill all the way through again but perpendicular to the first hole. The just fill with weld.

But as you say a new one will likely be less hassle once you factor in the cost and effort to replace the bushes.

Well I decided to repair it. $70for two bushes and a couple of hours and it will be like new.
I was thinking of drilling right through and putting a bolt in it and then welding that in too. Or something along those lines...
So I made my own press dolly up last night. An old calliper piston. I had to run a bead of weld around the lip and then grind it down a little as the piston was about 2mm too small. But it worked a treat.
80965
I also had a larger TB piston but I thought it would be easier to weld up rather that grind the entire piston down.


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[mudski]

Mig welding in slippers burns! Just a warning for others. Lol.
Plug welded and then around the nut. Hopefully she holds.
80971


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[Brissieboy]

Mig welding in slippers burns! Just a warning for others. Lol.

Do it in boots and you get lumps of that hot glue down inside them. Do it in bare feet (my usual safety gear) and you stand on the stuff. Never tried slippers, so thanks for the advice.

[Mickhead]

[QUOTE=mudski;802052]Mig welding in slippers burns! Just a warning for others. Lol.
Plug welded and then around the nut. Hopefully she holds.
80971


By the looks of that weld you were definately jumping around in agony :) :)

[10G]

welding in slippers. I'm too scared to ask what you used for eye protection. ;-)

[mudski]

[QUOTE=mudski;802052]Mig welding in slippers burns! Just a warning for others. Lol.


By the looks of that weld you were definately jumping around in agony :) :)

Doesn't help that maybe some whiskey was had too.

[PeeBee]

Decided to cover up the front side of the cargo barrier and also make the head impact area a bit safer, I used 8mm ply and its mounted off the cargo barrier - turned out great.80991
It is hinged at the bottom with piano hinge, so easy enough to get to the gear mounted on the cargo barrier back side.

[10G]

Drove the Trol out of the garage and back in. Most I've touched it in the last 7 days.
Haven't bought fuel for 6 weeks.

[Winnie]

Drove the Trol out of the garage and back in. Most I've touched it in the last 7 days.
Haven't bought fuel for 6 weeks.I did the same on the weekend, it was great fun.
Last bought fuel in February.

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[10G]

I did the same on the weekend, it was great fun.
Last bought fuel in February.

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Did you put the hubs in?

[mudski]

Decided to cover up the front side of the cargo barrier and also make the head impact area a bit safer, I used 8mm ply and its mounted off the cargo barrier - turned out great.80991
It is hinged at the bottom with piano hinge, so easy enough to get to the gear mounted on the cargo barrier back side.

Thats a great and neat idea Phil. Whats stopping the board from dropping down on a passengers head though?

[PeeBee]

I have bolted it thru the cargo barrier in both top corners, 80mm x M8 with offstand nuts to get it vertical and hold in place. You can just see one of the bolts/nuts on the bottom left hand of the photo

[PeeBee]

Wired the hydraulic winch back up after 11 months disconnected, ran it in and out twice, all good. Did the same for the rear electric winch, good to exercise them and get them warm. Think I may have isolated the squeaking noise - the bonnet release mechanism bolts were loose from a previous activity, now bonnet closes and squeak has disappeared - for now.

Waiting on the replacement Couplertec unit to arrive - warranty return, and the big w2a pump is on its way from NSW to Vic.

[jay see]

Did my wheel rotation this afternoon and notice that the disk was wet, not alot but enough to my attention. Undid the brake caliper to get a better look. Is this a leaking axel seal? It's the rear right hand side if that makes a difference

The last pic isn't wet, fair bit of guck tho.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/05/99.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/05/100.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/05/101.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/05/102.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/05/103.jpg

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[mudnut]

Bugger. The stuff on top looks like brake fluid to my untrained eye. Does the fluid pong like gearbox oil or Dot 3?

[jay see]

Now that you mentioned it. Yeah, probably is brake fluid. Best I have another look. Not today I've put everything away. I will check the fluid level..

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[mudski]

Absolutely naught! Was planning to do some stuff but I was to then stay at my dads place and help him out as he’s just got home from having a major back op. But to only spoil this yesterday stuffing my own back therefore rendering me useless. So some diazepam washed down with wine and whiskey and I’m good as gold! Well I can’t feel much atleast.


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[Mickhead]

Did my wheel rotation this afternoon and notice that the disk was wet, not alot but enough to my attention. Undid the brake caliper to get a better look. Is this a leaking axel seal? It's the rear right hand side if that makes a difference

The last pic isn't wet, fair bit of guck tho.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/05/99.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/05/100.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/05/101.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/05/102.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/05/103.jpg

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Last pic looks like weeping axle seal and the pic before looks like brake fluid, if you havent given that wheel a decent whack lately maybe by coincidence 2 leaks at once?

[MudRunnerTD]

Decided to cover up the front side of the cargo barrier and also make the head impact area a bit safer, I used 8mm ply and its mounted off the cargo barrier - turned out great.80991
It is hinged at the bottom with piano hinge, so easy enough to get to the gear mounted on the cargo barrier back side.

I have installed a Perspex Cargo Barrier in the GUIV. I Like it alot. clear view out the back and better for the AC in the Summer too. Clear Perspex bolted directy to the Mitford frame (No Mesh). It was a Mitford Option actually. I scored it a few years ago and over Christmas cut it up to fit above the rear drawers for the Tassie trip It works a treat.

[PeeBee]

I have installed a Perspex Cargo Barrier in the GUIV. I Like it alot. clear view out the back and better for the AC in the Summer too. Clear Perspex bolted directy to the Mitford frame (No Mesh). It was a Mitford Option actually. I scored it a few years ago and over Christmas cut it up to fit above the rear drawers for the Tassie trip It works a treat.

Agree Darren, good look, however my need was a little different. I have a lot of gear mounted on the barrier, so wanted to cover it up, plus I can't see out the rear of the vehicle anyway, so use the rear camera and mirror.

[10G]

paid the rego.

[Sprock]

Diazepam & whiskey - sounds like my brekky at 1am before going to work mudski 👍🏻

[mudski]

Diazepam & whiskey - sounds like my brekky at 1am before going to work mudski 👍🏻
:hpfredgeorge1:

Yeah I've been pooping the good pills all week like their candy, just to get by. Somethings not right, with my back issues, it would be good after two days, is been 6 and its still sore.

[PeeBee]

Propped the roofrack up one side at a time, replaced the rubber 'U' piece under the support rail in the roof gutter, cleaned the gutter out, doused it with rust converter for good measure - Nhoward has me paranoid, then masked off a 10mm band of the roof behind the rail and applied two coats of charcoal rust paint, repainted the tradesman clamps black and bolted it all back down, another 'stitch in time' job I reckon.