What did you do to your Patrol today!

[GQtdauto]

Picked up the GQ after three weeks and nearly five grand but on the plus side the power going up Taminick gap was amazing , now to start organising for the trip.

[Pete49]

Added a set of rear draws today (4wd centre). Now the old girl looks as flash as a rat with a gold tooth. Just adding my old 12 stack cd player and a couple odds and ends as I find them in the shed. New tyres next month.
Pete

[MB]

After midnight now so yesterday....collected the GU tank from PatrolApart with new Chev<>Trol clutch, TB48 brake pads as Bendicks were shart on HC scary hairpins. We prefer celebrating Jesus a week late when da crowds have cleared!
Stay safe out there this weekend folks please ;-)


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[Softy]

Topped up fluids and drained the Provent. Don't need to open the bonnet for another 3 months :D

[GQtdauto]

New boost compensated injector pump ,old one wasn't boost compensated but can notice the difference and so I should for the price of it .

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[Big Gags]

Went to Repco yesterday and dropped a few hundred on Penrite products (35% off sale). Today I changed the engine oil (and filter) and realised that it was the first time I had done my own oil change since I had a VB Commodore in 1991!! I also did the rear diff oil as well and I was pretty happy that I managed both with only one drop of oil falling on the cardboard I was using!!

Supercheap had a sale yesterday and I scored a new Century Deep Cycle (102 Ah) battery. This was because I wasn't really happy with the performance of the existing one which was running out in 10 hours or so when the fridge was running. I checked the levels on it yesterday and couldn't even see any fluid - only the exposed lead plates!! Pretty sure that once they are exposed to air they will never perform the same and so I decided to replace it and will see how it goes now with the fridge!! I also got a new Century Overlander starter battery on order as I figured that it was 5 years old too and probably could do with being replaced too!!

Also changed out the air filter with another Ryco (same model) and was surprised at how much crap was in there. Heaps of dust/dirt and quite a few bugs (including a pretty big dragonfly) - will be interesting to see if she breathes a bit easier tomorrow.

It was good getting my hands dirty on something other than bikes!! Still have the front diff, transfer case, gearbox, and brake lines to do and I also scored 4 x Kenworth speakers that I need to get around to putting in (will look at replacing head unit later too).

Gags

[DX grunt]

Giving my ute a 'shakedown' ready for my beach camping/fishing for the next few days.
Should have been fishing and visiting AVO a week ago, but I was scheduled to do a course, but it was canned. Not happy, but moved on. lol.

[PeeBee]

You might recall @MB's issue with condensation turning to ice in his diff lock lines on a winters trip last year. I think thats been sorted now with an in-line air/water separator, however i am trialling a couple of these units - they screw directly into the discharge port of the ARB difflock valve - need a reducing nipple from 1/4 - 1/8" bsp, they have a small collection bowl and what looks like a standard tyre valve for the vapour release. I will see how they perform this coming weekend as expect the lockers to get a workout. The standard ARB fitting then screws into the discharge side of the the filter.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-Oil-Water-Separator-Filter-Strainer-For-Air-Tools-1-4-Jetstream/361865526241?hash=item5440ddbbe1:g:gY4AAOSwCNpatkz l

[mudski]

Topped up fluids and drained the Provent. Don't need to open the bonnet for another 3 months :D

How much oil do you collect from the Provent? I used to get about 125ml every 5k in my old ZD30.

[Softy]

Around 50ml for 5000km.

[Incy]

drove it to work.

[garett]

engine oil and filters.
air filter
sway bar d bushes
inner axle seal
repack bearings
seal rear pinon
rotate tyres
front pads

[GQtdauto]

Worked out my trailer plug is playing up , blinkers are barely visible ,brakes are non existent but tail lights are good .

[Bacho86]

Cleaned it out and gave it a quick wash :)


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[Mc4by]

Scratched the body work on a track that mustn't have been used in 5 years. It's at the point where polishing achieves very little.

[garett]

Scratched the body work on a track that mustn't have been used in 5 years. It's at the point where polishing achieves very little.

what is this polishing you speak of ? :oops:

[Mc4by]

what is this polishing you speak of ? :oops:

At least when people see me drive by, they know I use it for the purpose it was designed for. :driving2:

[the evil twin]

At least when people see me drive by, they know I use it for the purpose it was designed for. :driving2:

What a coincidence... I think exactly the same thing every time I see a Prado on a Flatbed...

[Bidja]

Thought about it as I pondered over the wounds I encountered from putting the flanged inlet elbow back on the CRD turbo with alternator still in place-try it out!!!

Also installed second EGR plate (inlet manifold) both ends blocked now, and put all back together after discovering that my turbo comp wheel thrust bearing was shot. New turbo and 3"ducting on the mod list (what an excuse for an upgrade)...

[Bidja]

Scratched the body work on a track that mustn't have been used in 5 years. It's at the point where polishing achieves very little.Had to reverse out one of these yrs back and we were able to pick the blackberries as went. :)

[threedogs]

Worked out my trailer plug is playing up , blinkers are barely visible ,brakes are non existent but tail lights are good .

If they are LED you may need 50ohm resistors and better earths

[AB]

Took it on an epic adventure for 5 days in the high country.

Amazing tracks and sites.

Unfortunately had a little mishap with a sneaky tree branch sticking out from behind a bush on a very tight and overgrown track!

Poor little GQ is getting parked for some loving.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/42.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/43.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/44.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/45.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/46.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/47.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/44.jpg


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[AB]

Bugger!!!http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/48.jpg

It's hit every single bloody panel on the left hand side damn it!

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[GQtdauto]

Ouch that's a 3D pin stripe no one wants , take a photo of the other side it's still good .

[Winnie]

Took it on an epic adventure for 5 days in the high country.

Amazing tracks and sites.

Unfortunately had a little mishap with a sneaky tree branch sticking out from behind a bush on a very tight and overgrown track!

Poor little GQ is getting parked for some loving.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/42.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/43.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/44.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/45.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/46.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/47.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/44.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkHere's my pics from the weekend.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/59.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/60.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/61.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/62.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/63.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/64.jpg

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[mudski]

Changed over the cabin filter yesterday. Its been in there for three years and never cleaned. Twas a we bit dirty... Lol.
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[TPC]

Bugger!!!http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/48.jpg

It's hit every single bloody panel on the left hand side damn it!

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Should polish out. :rolleyes:
Most people stop before they damage all 4 panels down the side.

[MudRunnerTD]

Should polish out. :rolleyes:
Most people stop before they damage all 4 panels down the side.

Didnt hear or feel a thing damn it. I was in the passenger seat with the qindow down. It was a pretty overgrown track.

[Ben-e-boy]

Where is the video of that rocky climb

[MudRunnerTD]

Was a great trip with great blokes

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/65.jpg

Woods Point was on fire!!

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/66.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/67.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/68.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/69.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/70.jpg

Hows the serenity.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/71.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/72.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/73.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/74.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/75.jpg

McGyvered the fark out of that!!

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/76.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/77.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/78.jpg



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[Yeti's Beast]

Bugger!!!http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/48.jpg

It's hit every single bloody panel on the left hand side damn it!

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Bugger !!!


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[MB]

Where is the video of that rocky climb
Barkly River Jeep Track
https://youtu.be/PB6-8q0UZ5Q

https://youtu.be/SfWZEL97_7s



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[Winnie]

Barkly River Jeep Track
https://youtu.be/PB6-8q0UZ5Q

https://youtu.be/SfWZEL97_7s



Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkSuper jealous of those reduction gears guys. Made everything look so much easier, less stress on the vehicle.

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[MB]

For sure mate, up there as one of the best High Country mods no doubt, huge torque to the BFG’s.
Helps my fat arse steel tray bulldoze tight sharp edges wider for folks and PeeBee kindly takes off the bottom sharp bits with his pumpkin shields!
https://youtu.be/gQ8blm9SgsA




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[Rossco]

Yeah that's crazy the difference between me & AB coming up is nuts. . . Also had the fuel pump still not performing like it should so needed to give it a bit more of a floggn'. Bloody thing back to dieseltec but apart from that the thing is going awesome. . .

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[PeeBee]

Campsite om saturday night - top of the world stuff, mild night, still, and 360 deg views.74914

Brilliant trip guys, great company.

[Rossco]

A few photos of last weekends adventure in the mountains. What an awesome weekend all round, the GQ went wicked, though although not entirely perfect. Back to Dieseltec next week for a final tweak to get the thing pretty much perfect hopefully.

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[Mc4by]

Great photos.
Yearning builds...

[Rossco]

Couple more . .

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/102.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/103.jpg

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[Sprock]

A few photos of last weekends adventure in the mountains. What an awesome weekend all round, the GQ went wicked, though although not entirely perfect. Back to Dieseltec next week for a final tweak to get the thing pretty much perfect hopefully.

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Last photo coming out of Glencairn ?

[Sprock]

Started fitting up the carter lift pump . That's what I did to it today .

[Pete49]

Put a new light bar on the beast. New tyres Tuesday.

[Rossco]

Last photo coming out of Glencairn ?Where is Glencairn exactly, know it's kinda north of licola is it just the private property up the valley? It's around Middle Ridge Road near the bottom of Barkley River. .



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[MB]

Must be PP mate, Sprocky will know for sure...http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/104.jpg


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[Rossco]

What's PP, per picture ? . . .

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[PeeBee]

What's PP, per picture ? . . .

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Oh dear Rossco, its 'puckering pineapple' of course, everyone knows that!

[Sir Roofy]

What's PP, per picture ? . . .

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Private property nice bloke

[Rossco]

Oh yeah of course. . . Feel a bit silly ATM (everyone knows what ATM stands for right [emoji6]) . . .

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[MB]

‘Pokemon Pearl’ actually Phil, it’s the 4x4 Hema edition, 20points for bullbar contact!!


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[PeeBee]

Oh yeah of course. . . Feel a bit silly ATM (everyone knows what ATM stakes for right [emoji6]) . . .

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Anatomically terrific mango?

[Sprock]

Haha it seems I created a side story , Glencairn is an area nth of Licola , between Jamieson rd & middle ridge intersection on top of the hill - it's the bit down the bottom - there's a section of bitumen about 100mts long through it . BTW I carted logs out of there when I 1st started . I assume we all know what BTW means ? Rossco ?

[Rossco]

Best times wazza? Break the winch ? ? . . .

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[PeeBee]

Repaired the flare and torn tabs broken last weekend, also fixed the dent in the drivers side plastic scuff pad and polished out the panel dent so its hardly noticeable. Removed the 200a/hr battery that dropped a cell, also on the same weekend as the flare damage, and now looking for a replacement, thinking along the lines of the Optima D31T, probably 2 of them. Should have enough grunt for the rear winch and also run the fridge and coffee machine nicely.

[Yeti's Beast]

Call around to my head office over in Rowville. They have a battery called an Ultimate UL-230
It’s a huge sucker with 230 ah AGM deepcycle
https://www.mpower.com.au/products/batteries/rv-caravan-marine/batul230hzb-ultimate-12v-230ah-n200agm-deep-cycle


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[mudski]

Those pics make sic sick with jealousy!!!

[PeeBee]

Call around to my head office over in Rowville. They have a battery called an Ultimate UL-230
It’s a huge sucker with 230 ah AGM deepcycle
https://www.mpower.com.au/products/batteries/rv-caravan-marine/batul230hzb-ultimate-12v-230ah-n200agm-deep-cycle


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Thanks for that, they are not far from , maybe 10 minutes. Can't see a CCA rating though - this is part of the 'picture' to some degree. Vehicle can sit on maintenance charge for a couple of months and not move, then out we go and give the battery a work out for a weekend and back to sleep. Concerned about sulphation, and yes use a CTEK charger plus an addition de-sulphation device as well. No doubt a few bucks for this monster so need to be sure its the right one and that my 'useage style' does not kill it prematurely. I will give the office a call in the morning and have a chat.

[PeeBee]

Those pics make sic sick with jealousy!!!

That little pinch was an eye-opener for me as the vehicles simply crawled up it yet it was difficult to walk up. I also went straight up but had the benefit of Darren guiding me - was headed for the chicken track until firmly directed back up the ugly bit. These patrols are incredible beasts. Another great weekend, and walked away with more confidence and skills I believe.

[jay see]

Not much going to be happening to the trol for a little while. It's a a point where it's doing what it needs to do.

Time to put some coin and time into the R8. Want to get it registered and looking schmick before the end of the year.

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[Yeti's Beast]

Thanks for that, they are not far from , maybe 10 minutes. Can't see a CCA rating though - this is part of the 'picture' to some degree. Vehicle can sit on maintenance charge for a couple of months and not move, then out we go and give the battery a work out for a weekend and back to sleep. Concerned about sulphation, and yes use a CTEK charger plus an addition de-sulphation device as well. No doubt a few bucks for this monster so need to be sure its the right one and that my 'useage style' does not kill it prematurely. I will give the office a call in the morning and have a chat.

Let’s see if this works
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1ewtfdl12zgpons/Ultimate%20Xtreme%20Brochure%202016.pdf?dl=0
If you call, Ask for Albert and I will email him to let him know. I work in Qld
That battery has a cca rating of 987 cca
If it’s let sit on the Ctek that should be fine as they go into hibernation after 10 days. We often sell these for emergency generators so they sit on float charge mostly in that application. We also have a Gel version


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[rusty_nail]

Where is the video of that rocky climb

this one mate? =P


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQ6yCNG-4S4


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6yKkwBm_pk

[Rossco]

Seriously impressive, although doesn't look a 10th as bad as it was on video ! . .

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[PeeBee]

Seriously impressive, although doesn't look a 10th as bad as it was on video ! . .

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What is this track ?

[MB]

Champion Spur Link Track, where I destroyed my rear tank simply crawling down. Benny’s beast eats it going up!!


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[rusty_nail]

got some nice pics too.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/5AbVX09wXztm6T2r1
Ben-e-boy

[mudski]

^^^ Gawd!!! Love the flex!!!

[rusty_nail]

all those photos can be viewed via the links in my signature.

[PeeBee]

Let’s see if this works
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1ewtfdl12zgpons/Ultimate%20Xtreme%20Brochure%202016.pdf?dl=0
If you call, Ask for Albert and I will email him to let him know. I work in Qld
That battery has a cca rating of 987 cca
If it’s let sit on the Ctek that should be fine as they go into hibernation after 10 days. We often sell these for emergency generators so they sit on float charge mostly in that application. We also have a Gel version


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OK< battery is $540 plus gst, looks good as against the Optima which would give me 150a/hr for two units at circa $800 and similar CCA. Will check it fits and take the step soon - one avail in Melb. By comparison i checked the same size/spec battery made by CAT and its $1250!!!!

[Ben-e-boy]

I have incab footage of that climb when @<a href="http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/member.php?u=6394" target="_blank">Winnie</a> jumped in the passenger seat.

I just pulled the hand throttle out for that climb lol


https://youtu.be/3OUFdHz5hZY

[Ben-e-boy]

^^^ Gawd!!! Love the flex!!!

The front works better now I pulled the heavy front springs I used for that trip out

[Rossco]

"Not bad for a farm Ute" . . Classic . . . [emoji6]

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[mudski]

"Not bad for a farm Ute" . . Classic . . . [emoji6]

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Yeah I was kinda giggling at that too. Farm ute....Lol.

[Ben-e-boy]

It'll always look like a piece of crap farm ute. It's meant to be lol

[AB]

It'll always look like a piece of crap farm ute. It's meant to be lol

Just seeding the paddocks ma!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/113.jpg



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[PeeBee]

You might recall @MB's issue with condensation turning to ice in his diff lock lines on a winters trip last year. I think thats been sorted now with an in-line air/water separator, however i am trialling a couple of these units - they screw directly into the discharge port of the ARB difflock valve - need a reducing nipple from 1/4 - 1/8" bsp, they have a small collection bowl and what looks like a standard tyre valve for the vapour release. I will see how they perform this coming weekend as expect the lockers to get a workout. The standard ARB fitting then screws into the discharge side of the the filter.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-Oil-Water-Separator-Filter-Strainer-For-Air-Tools-1-4-Jetstream/361865526241?hash=item5440ddbbe1:g:gY4AAOSwCNpatkz l

Bit of an update and conclusion on these in-line filters. We ran all day over the last weekend and the difflocks were in and out 100 times i reckon. I inspected the bowls on both lockers and totally dry. Thinking about it, if I accept the filters actually work, the conclusions I have come to are 1) the ARB compressor is small and sized only for difflock operation, hence the actual compressed air generated is small compared to MB's large volume, multi tasking compressor that is used for on-the-fly suspension adjustment, tyre pumping and difflock operation, and 2) the weather conditions were very mild, circa mid twenties, as opposed to near freezing conditions when MB experienced the ice locks due to water in the line. So, I need to confirm their effectiveness in similar conditions before saying they work or not - stay tuned, maybe on the licola trip if I get there. I still think they are worth adding, however perhaps need a longer run and far more extreme temps than mid April.

[MB]

Sounds great Philstar, never can be too overcausious I’ve learnt with yours and others help when it comes to air gadgets for work and play.
FWIW my lockers freezing back then was entirely within the solenoids. Matfew kindly ripped out the diffusers next morning and on/off/on/off/on cleaned out the ice whilst we dumped the storage tank.
Design issue was I believe having all air (unfiltered/separated) going straight to a 20L under tray steel cold tank for routing off thereafter.
New setup has air cleaned then ‘T’s’ off to tank for suspension outside stuff and indoor lockers/free spool solenoids somewhat more direct to filter output.


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[mudski]

Sounds great Philstar, never can be too overcausious I’ve learnt with yours and others help when it comes to air gadgets for work and play.
FWIW my lockers freezing back then was entirely within the solenoids. Matfew kindly ripped out the diffusers next morning and on/off/on/off/on cleaned out the ice whilst we dumped the storage tank.
Design issue was I believe having all air (unfiltered/separated) going straight to a 20L under tray steel cold tank for routing off thereafter.
New setup has air cleaned then ‘T’s’ off to tank for suspension outside stuff and indoor lockers/free spool solenoids somewhat more direct to filter output.


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Maybe add a small fuel tank heater blanket to the air tank??? I have the ARB twin under the pax seat and found I get a crap load of moisture when pumping the tyres up. But that was after the compressor was running for a bit. So I am not sure how much condensation I would get from just using the lockers... Depends on the setup I suppose.

[iannav]

Just got the Patrol Back from the smash repairers and the indicators won't cancel anymore the Airbag didn't go off any ideas if this is a common thing.

Great to have the old beast back.

[Hodge]

Just replaced the large rear barn door. Alignment of the new door is 98%. The hinge bolts to the body don't give much play for adjustment, not as much as I thought they would.

Tint shade on the new door is different to the old one. And I lose the forum sticker :(

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=75027&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=75028&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=75029&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=75030&stc=1

[AB]

Just a slight mod today...http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/115.jpg


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[Yeti's Beast]

Just replaced the large rear barn door. Alignment of the new door is 98%. The hinge bolts to the body don't give much play for adjustment, not as much as I thought they would.

Tint shade on the new door is different to the old one. And I lose the forum sticker :(

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=75027&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=75028&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=75029&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=75030&stc=1

Top job, just needs a Patrol4x4.com sticker on the door. 🤣[emoji23]


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[GQtdauto]

Just a slight mod today...http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/115.jpg


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Why ruin a good fourby .

[Ben-e-boy]

Just a slight mod today...http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/115.jpg


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Did it come with a leather police cap and a life time membership at the blue oyster bar?

[Rossco]

Just replaced the large rear barn door. Alignment of the new door is 98%. The hinge bolts to the body don't give much play for adjustment, not as much as I thought they would.

Tint shade on the new door is different to the old one. And I lose the forum sticker :(

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=75027&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=75028&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=75029&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=75030&stc=1Nice 1, glad you had more luck with the barn doors than i did [emoji6]

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[AB]

Amazingly scored 4 doors and a barn door in exactly my colour and great condition for $200.

Cannot believe it!!!

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/116.jpg


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[AB]

Ps... I paid $100 if Leah's nearby.


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[Plasnart]

Amazingly scored 4 doors and a barn door in exactly my colour and great condition for $200.

Cannot believe it!!!

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/116.jpg


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Kissed on the dick by an angel mate! Just gotta sort the rear quarter panel. How did you score this, model, colour scheme combo fluke artist??

[Rossco]

Kissed on the dick by an angel mate! Just gotta sort the rear quarter panel. How did you score this, model, colour scheme combo fluke artist??Ah Plassy, such a way with words [emoji6]. . .

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[Plasnart]

Ah Plassy, such a way with words [emoji6]. . .

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An oldy but a goody!

[MB]

Just a slight mod today...http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/115.jpg


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Drivetrains were built by the Legendary Aussie ‘Bob James’ (6x6 Australia-Ballina). Bloke spends heaps of time overseas pimping up big oil money Patrols however they request ;-)



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[Avo]

geez and here iu was thinking you were going to tell us about the huge hole in the arse you gave it.

[Plasnart]

geez and here iu was thinking you were going to tell us about the huge hole in the arse you gave it.

Pretty good approach and departure angles that one. Thats about it tho.

[MB]

Yep, smartypants :-) Been thinking about starting a Blog on the subject although stuffed if I know how, please teach mate?


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[Touses]

Ps... I paid $100 if Leah's nearby.


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I can feel a blackmail comin' on! Thirteen chickens and I won't mention it to a soul.

[Hodge]

Just finished a quick oil change. 10 out, 10 in, 2 filters. Done. Now for a beer or 4.....

[Bidja]

Just finish install of Fabwitz 3" induction sys (complete works) to my 08 Patrol CRD.
Airbox thru to throttle body (inlet manifold). To compliment current ECU remap (max boost 22psi) and scheduled install of stage 3 turbo (early May).

[Bidja]

Made a bracket to secure my VNT solenoid off the Aux battery tray adjacent to the new air box.

Run manual boost control (dawes/needle). So when I installed new air box and pipework I removed VNT solenoind and the fault code P0045 (solenoid open curcuit) came up and got limp mode. After re-connecting the solenoid this removed P0045 fault and now no limp.

[PeeBee]

Installed the Icom UHF today, into the existing dash Pod - waiting for a DIN facia plate to arrive to finish it off, all hooked up. Also found the source of my RS radio transmissions - soldered joint on antenna coupling had come adrift - so sorted that out. Then tested out the radio using the other uhf in the truck, raised the roofrack antenna - all good, packed up, drove the truck into the garage and wiped out the brand new RFI 3dbi antenna - faaaark. There goes another $150 down the toilet for lack of attention.

[katwoman]

Booked it in for new bearings and hubs so we can get to SA next week.


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[PeeBee]

Both new pusher fans arrived this week, so spent the afternoon mounting them in front of the radiator. Bit of a mission, but the two fan now can push up to 3000CFM thru the radiator on demand, which i hope is enough to keep the temps down when doing 2000rpm at 1klm/hr up monster gnarly tracks in the heat. Now just have to set up the electrics and reinstall the grill and antennas etc. Thermos are additional to the mechanical fan that does a reasonable job up to rad temps of say 95 deg C , then its all over and temp just keeps rising. Topped out at 130 Deg c on the last trip simply because there was nowhere to stop on one track in particular - MudRunnerTD's pinstripe applicator track I think its called!

Fitted the replacement RFI UHF antenna that I stupidly left up before driving into the garage, BUT, when changing over the antenna cable found the FME-UHF fitting broken, so unable to connect then test. Expensive little fitting by the looks of it compared to the straight out PL259 or equivalent.

[DX grunt]

Topped up both diesel tanks today....$199.40.

Can't complain. First time in 2 months.

Been testing out the missus' new car lately. lol.

[Bidja]

Cleaned back some corrosion on chassis rail weld joint and repainted.

Fitted Out Back Ideas "T"recovery point (good for lift point as well), thanks John.
Also fitted Billy Goat bash plate.
Some minor mods to fit up but all good and happy.

[PeeBee]

wired up fans, all good, no smoke testing took place, all runs as designed, grill back on and back into the garage for another week of rest!

[Mc4by]

Installed new wiper blades....in case it ever rains here in W.A.

[mudski]

Cleaned back some corrosion on chassis rail weld joint and repainted.

Fitted Out Back Ideas "T"recovery point (good for lift point as well), thanks John.
Also fitted Billy Goat bash plate.
Some minor mods to fit up but all good and happy.

Be careful of those bash plates mate. A few members here had them and bashed them in enough that it was fouling on the drag link.

[Bidja]

Be careful of those bash plates mate. A few members here had them and bashed them in enough that it was fouling on the drag link.

Thanks mate, been off line this week. Yeh not a lot of clearance in there, will keep an eye on it. They must absorb quite bit of energy before fouling occurs but do appreciate the heads up. Do the other builds like the Patrolapart supplied ones, do they provide a lot more clearance or are you just commenting generally against the use of them ?

[Stropp]

Waved goodbye to it as my brother drove away with it

[Mc4by]

Took it for a run along the Brunswick Challenge Track to test the new wiper rubbers I installed.

75293

75294

[mudski]

Thanks mate, been off line this week. Yeh not a lot of clearance in there, will keep an eye on it. They must absorb quite bit of energy before fouling occurs but do appreciate the heads up. Do the other builds like the Patrolapart supplied ones, do they provide a lot more clearance or are you just commenting generally against the use of them ?

Just generally... The plate that bent were of 6mm steel plate too. I just bought a Superior Engineering 4340 comp spec drag link and tie rod. Lifetime warranty against bending it so it was a no brainer....

[Big Gags]

A couple of months ago I scored some 6" Kenwood speakers from Supercheap that were marked down from $70 to $30 and then I got another 40% off so they were only $18 per pair. I also bought a $10 set of plastic tools for removing door trims. Today I replaced all four of the stock speakers (Clarion branded with paper elements) with the Kenwood ones and I'm happy to say that I managed to do it without breaking any of the door trims or the "Christmas Tree" attachment thingys. It took about 45 min for the first one as it took me a while to work out how to get the door trims off but it got easier from there and the last one only took about 20 min to remove trim, remove speaker and cut existing connector off, solder on new speaker, install speaker, replace door trim). The sound quality is so much better and I can turn it all the way up on the stock head unit without it distorting. Now I just need to keep an eye out for a new head unit and I am still deciding if I am going to add an amp as well.

[Bidja]

Just generally... The plate that bent were of 6mm steel plate too. I just bought a Superior Engineering 4340 comp spec drag link and tie rod. Lifetime warranty against bending it so it was a no brainer....

Yeh, have spoken with them and yep they say they don't bend and covered under warranty, this is fair enough. The old pitman arm steering box would get a pounding if there was that much kinetic energy needing to be dissipated..

Each to their own, but IMHO, I prefer a plate in this location to provide some general protection and be used as a deflector of sticks/logs from being thrown up in to the drive pulleys and fan belt region, especially whilst reversing out over crappy ground cover situation.. Has happened to me once and had a hell of time had removing a stick..

[mudnut]

Finally fitted a new piston in the front D/S brake calliper. When I fitted new discs and pads a while ago, I found the bottom of the rubber boot was ripped and had allowed moisture to get in and cause the piston to rust along the seal.

[Bidja]

Disassembled my vnt turbo actuator rod and with the liberal use of some Mil spec CLP "clean lubricate preserve solution" got my turbo actuator rod adjuster working and now can change its length to bring on boost earlier. Set the actuator lever up to hit stop by measurement (inches of mercury-vacuum) with the new mityvac hand pressure/vac pump that arrived today Good kit can use to bleed brakes and clutch as well.

[threedogs]

A couple of months ago I scored some 6" Kenwood speakers from Supercheap that were marked down from $70 to $30 and then I got another 40% off so they were only $18 per pair. I also bought a $10 set of plastic tools for removing door trims. Today I replaced all four of the stock speakers (Clarion branded with paper elements) with the Kenwood ones and I'm happy to say that I managed to do it without breaking any of the door trims or the "Christmas Tree" attachment thingys. It took about 45 min for the first one as it took me a while to work out how to get the door trims off but it got easier from there and the last one only took about 20 min to remove trim, remove speaker and cut existing connector off, solder on new speaker, install speaker, replace door trim). The sound quality is so much better and I can turn it all the way up on the stock head unit without it distorting. Now I just need to keep an eye out for a new head unit and I am still deciding if I am going to add an amp as well.

Fitted some 6.5 in speakers all around a year or so back one of the better mods.

Tomorrow I'll be taken a bit of boost out of the beast, the guys that did the head must of fixed a suspected leak I thought I had so will back it off fro 25psi ay 100mph to about 15psi at 110 mph or Hume hwy running, then fiddle with Dawes as suggested by mudski, way to much boost for a small motor.
Plus no limp mode either but thats another story. Will let yo know how I go

[Bidja]

Fitted some 6.5 in speakers all around a year or so back one of the better mods.

Tomorrow I'll be taken a bit of boost out of the beast, the guys that did the head must of fixed a suspected leak I thought I had so will back it off fro 25psi ay 100mph to about 110psi at 110 mph or Hume hwy running, then fiddle with Dawes as suggested by mudski, way to much boost for a small motor.
Plus no limp mode either but thats another story. Will let yo know how I go

Yeh (in my case), slightest vacuum leak can have large impact on spool/boost especially running high boost levels.
Saw this recently, had a stage 3 turbo fitted and tune(running 22-23 maxB), the the guys replaced my Dawes with a Tillix but used a vac hose with too large a ID to suit the vac filter. Vac leak and caused lose of boost hauling(egts high) and lack of spool response/pwr low down(laggy). Traveled 350ks home, found leak, repaired got instant improvement but needs another tune (FOChg of course).

[Bidja]

Thursday, had ECPT do a follow up dyno tune and to provide more fuel low down for improved spool for 4 & 5th gear to match up with new procharge stage 3 turbo running Max B 22psi.
Today, doing final adjustment to the actuator rod length with good result. Achieved improved linear spool/pwr response thru rev range (>1800 rpm). Max boost >21 psi in 1st 2nd 3rd gears from 1800rpm in 4th and 5th from 2000 rpm, can produce and hold max torque >370N-m from 1800rpm in all gears under load condition....Running full NADS, Tillix/needle, Fabwitz 3" complete SS induction sys (air box to throttle body).
Hwy run <11.5 lt/100kms from Nth of Sydney to ACT doing mostly 110kph and acceptable EGTs. Dyno max result 122kW (163rwhp) / 378 N-m.

[mudski]

Finally washed it. Looks good in low light. I’d love to give it a new coat of jam...75547


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[Sprock]

No you wouldn’t . As it is you take it anywhere & enjoy it as it should be enjoyed , as do I with mine , if it got a coat of paint you’d be hesitant on some tracks / over grown etc .

[PeeBee]

Stripped the TB42 twin pot brakes down to run a kit thru them before installing next weekend. Took me 2 hours to get one of the pistons out, and there is corrosion towards the pad end of the piston that looks like its pitted the seal surface, too bad to ignore so off to buy 4 pistons on Monday. Seems Nissan is the only option at this time as nothing else on line at the moment?

Word of warning people when using compressed air to extend the pistons - you end up with a high velocity slug if you are not careful - nursing a very sore finger that got in the way as one piston let loose.

[mudski]

Word of warning people when using compressed air to extend the pistons - you end up with a high velocity slug if you are not careful - nursing a very sore finger that got in the way as one piston let loose.

Haha! I put a piece of wood in the caliper where the pads would go to soften the blow when they fire out.

[PeeBee]

OK, drivers side front end seals, brgs and TB42 twin pot calipers in. Did the complete overhaul per Darrens excellent instruction set. Had a few issues. The first one was the hub bearing spanner - bought this 15 yrs ago and never used it, my patrol has the GU wheel brg nuts. Bloody spigots were too big for the lock nut, so a quick dash down to Patrola part, and decided to change out the nuts, lock washer and screws, plus buy a spanner that fits.

Had a nightmare getting the small brgs off the spigots - the top and bottom knuckle brgs - totally siezed, could not shift them even with a 10 t hydraulic sykes puller, so ended up grinding out the side to weaken the brg and they came out ok.

Unsure about my torque settings for seating the wheel brgs though, set a brand spanking torque wrench to 145ft lbs per the notes and never made it click, but brgs locked right up. backed them off and rotated wheel to loosen then borrowed a neighbours TW and same again, never reached 145. Anyway, have followed the instructions but compared to the other side of the car the wheel brg assy is a fair bit stiffer. Looks like I wont get this completed this weekend, so passenger side will be done next week over a couple of nights.

[MudRunnerTD]

OK, drivers side front end seals, brgs and TB42 twin pot calipers in. Did the complete overhaul per Darrens excellent instruction set. Had a few issues. The first one was the hub bearing spanner - bought this 15 yrs ago and never used it, my patrol has the GU wheel brg nuts. Bloody spigots were too big for the lock nut, so a quick dash down to Patrola part, and decided to change out the nuts, lock washer and screws, plus buy a spanner that fits.

Had a nightmare getting the small brgs off the spigots - the top and bottom knuckle brgs - totally siezed, could not shift them even with a 10 t hydraulic sykes puller, so ended up grinding out the side to weaken the brg and they came out ok.

Unsure about my torque settings for seating the wheel brgs though, set a brand spanking torque wrench to 145ft lbs per the notes and never made it click, but brgs locked right up. backed them off and rotated wheel to loosen then borrowed a neighbours TW and same again, never reached 145. Anyway, have followed the instructions but compared to the other side of the car the wheel brg assy is a fair bit stiffer. Looks like I wont get this completed this weekend, so passenger side will be done next week over a couple of nights.

Dont worry about the WB torque setting. Did my head in too. I actually broke the pin 9ff thr socket trying to get it!! Make them tight. Spin a few times each way. Fully undo. Then hand tight.

[PeeBee]

Thanks Darren, glad you mentioned the pin break because I also did that today. I will see about a fix tomorrow. I am looking forward to getting behind the wheel with the new setup. Didn't have much luck with the WB greaser you recommended - simply could not get it to produce the results you get - obviously operator error, maybe its set up incorrectly, no instructions but its the same concept as yours. Anyway I hand packed the bearings so will have another look at it tomorrow after bleeding the brakes.

Bearing greaser update. I have bought one different to yours, which is a pain. Mine is designed to clamp the bearing and use a grase gun to charge it. Not what I wanted, didn't recognise the difference, still over $50, but at least I know now. the vendor on ebay came back with a youtube link - excellent service.

[mudski]

Took mine for a drive today only to find out the heater core has a leak. I now realise its a full dash removal just to remove and refit the core.

[Songoni]

Took out the Dash Board from my 1999 GU Patrol. Directional Vents for air was not working. Sorted out with a clean and lubrication.

[rusty_nail]

Took mine for a drive today only to find out the heater core has a leak. I now realise its a full dash removal just to remove and refit the core.Been there before mate, it's a basrard.

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[mudski]

Been there before mate, it's a basrard.

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Yeah well Im in two minds now...

I spend the time putting new light in the garage so I have decent light when working on the car after hours. I hang the roof rack from the Patrol in the carport. I now can fit the Patrol, just, in the garage. I get it in there. Strip a portion of the lhs dash and inspect. I cannot see and evidence on the air box of any coolant leakage. Only what I found on the floor mat. I then start thinking back. When Hodge and I had our night off at Running Creek, about 3 weeks or so ago, I think from memory I had put a bottle of coolant on the front passenger side floor, as I rarely go anywhere without coolant on hand.
But, only noticing it now makes me think I have a leak. But its been so bloody cold and I rarely drive the car now, I'm also thinking if the coolant has been there all this time from the bottle it was stored in..

Its a big bloody job to remove the entire dash. So I want to be 100% before I start ripping stuff out. I think I will take the Patrol to work for a day, which is 45 minutes each way. Hopefully if it leaks it will then. As of now, the cooling system is under pressure over night to expose any weak points.

[nissannewby]

Took mine for a drive today only to find out the heater core has a leak. I now realise its a full dash removal just to remove and refit the core.

Its doable without removing the dash. Not to bad either. Its not that hard without removing the dash, as in you wont save time by taking the dash out.

[mudski]

Its doable without removing the dash. Not to bad either. Its not that hard without removing the dash, as in you wont save time by taking the dash out.

From all the searches i found, the entire dash needs to be removed. I started yesterday removing the glove box and had a look. I was thinking surely I could get to it without removing the lot. But. Upon inspection, I cannot see any evidence of where the coolant has leaked from. I removed the a/c filter and looked inside the box there and its totally dry. Not even a small of coolant. So I will be driving the Patrol to work tomorrow to see if it leaks. The cooling system has been under a pressure tester for the last 12 hours and there is no leaks.
Te coolant I found on the floor mat could have been from a bottle i had sitting there, a month ago. But surely it would have evaporate somewhat in that time. But, it has been bloody cold here and the Patrol gets driven about an hour each weekend....

[Bidja]

Mark, 6 months back thought my heater core was leaking, coolant on floor mat and engine side of firewall (at drain point below a/c pipes). Took glove box compartment out screwed head up in behind and all was dry. Ended up getting UV light found liquid to glow and it was the O-rings on the a/c pipe flanges were the mate up to the corresponding joint faces at firewall. The O-rings had age hardened and a/c fluid was weeping out. Just a thought to consider, worth checking it out.

[Bacho86]

Installed another anchor point.... exiting modification lmao [emoji23]


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[Hodge]

Installed another anchor point.... exiting modification lmao [emoji23]


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Wait. Is that a hint that there's another one on the way ???

[jay see]

So I got myself a thunder 12 volt 12 amp 8 stage battery charger.

Pluged it all up and it's working away well. Checked the gauge and as you can see both batteries are above 14 volts is this norma? The charger is connected to the aux battery but yet both batteries are showing charge.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/06/192.jpg

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[MB]

‘Should’ be fine Jaysee, if I remember correctly 14.8v is about the safe max, others will know better. I know my Redarc isolater doesn’t open from main <> aux until about 13.2v so only assuming it’s the same when charged in reverse as you are?
What Volt readings were either battery before you hooked it up mate?


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[jay see]

‘Should’ be fine Jaysee, if I remember correctly 14.8v is about the safe max, others will know better. I know my Redarc isolater doesn’t open from main <> aux until about 13.2v so only assuming it’s the same when charged in reverse as you are?
What Volt readings were either battery before you hooked it up mate?


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI like the 'should' Mark..

Nah, it's makes sense as you put it.

Aux battery was @12.7v before charger went on. Put charger on and it climbed to 80% I left it on for a bit. Needed to go out so packed it up and will give it a good run tonight. Starter battery don't know.

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[MB]

‘I’ electrical and mechanical hack nuffy ‘should’ always be careful, lol :-)
Assuming also that your ‘right’ side gauge is the auxiliary mate? Closest to the charge source hence giving slightly higher circa 0.2v reading?


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[jay see]

‘I’ electrical and mechanical hack nuffy ‘should’ always be careful, lol :-)
Assuming also that your ‘right’ side gauge is the auxiliary mate? Closest to the charge source hence giving slightly higher circa 0.2v reading?


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkYeah mate that's right.

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[MB]

Does sound like a very efficient charger mate, actually in the market for a decent shed one myself these days. If time permits please do post up a link to the ‘Thunder 12v’ ripper, Cheers!


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[jay see]

This is where I got it from.
Order lunchtime Tuesday arrived this afternoon.

https://www.sparesbox.com.au/part/thunder-battery-chargers-12v-12a-tdr02112

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[PeeBee]

Finished passenger side hub seal/TB brake upgrade. MudRunnerTD I have some photo's of the removal of the knuckle bearings using a sykes puller if you want to include in your build, plus a shot of the new disk fitted to the old hub - important step in the brake upgrade. Bleeding the brakes tomorrow with my brother , could not get all the air out using the one man bleed kit.

[PeeBee]

Finished passenger side hub seal/TB brake upgrade. MudRunnerTD I have some photo's of the removal of the knuckle bearings using a sykes puller if you want to include in your build, plus a shot of the new disk fitted to the old hub - important step in the brake upgrade. Bleeding the brakes tomorrow with my brother , could not get all the air out using the one man bleed kit.


MODS PLS REMOVE THIS DUPLICATE POST - Thanks

[MudRunnerTD]

Finished passenger side hub seal/TB brake upgrade. MudRunnerTD I have some photo's of the removal of the knuckle bearings using a sykes puller if you want to include in your build, plus a shot of the new disk fitted to the old hub - important step in the brake upgrade. Bleeding the brakes tomorrow with my brother , could not get all the air out using the one man bleed kit.


To my frustration I am in the middle of a full front end strip down too damn it. I was going to grab a set of pics using a couple of options for king Pin bearing removal and post up too. Add yours mate. I will edit my post too and add mine at the start in the right spot.

[mudski]

Does sound like a very efficient charger mate, actually in the market for a decent shed one myself these days. If time permits please do post up a link to the ‘Thunder 12v’ ripper, Cheers!


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I have a Ctek mxs5 Mark and it’s an awesome charger. Worth looking at...
https://www.ctek.com/products/vehicle/mxs-5-0


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[Hodge]

I have a Ctek mxs5 Mark and it’s an awesome charger. Worth looking at...
https://www.ctek.com/products/vehicle/mxs-5-0

@MB
I second this. I have the 4 Amp version and it charges batteries like a champ. Coupled with my in-car CTEK setup, it charges both Aux & starter.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=75761&stc=1

[Winnie]

I've got the smaller 3.8A version and I use it as a maintenance charger only. Because my car can sit for a month without being driven I keep this charger on it all the time, hopefully it will make the batteries last longer.

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[PeeBee]

Bled brakes for 4 hrs, could not get the pedal to stop hitting the firewall. made a few calls to gents on the Forum for advice, nope didn't change. Ended up putting 2L of fluid thru the system, completely flushed it out, no leaks visible anywhere. Came to the conclusion perhaps the brake master cylinder was passing fluid, so pulled it out, looks fine but not wanting to root around any further, purchase a new Nissan brake master cylinder on the basis this one had done its job since 1997, and its a process of elimination. Bled brakes PR, DR, PF then DF and also the brake proportining valve. PedAL would pump up with engine off then fall to the firewall as soon as the engine was turned on and wouldnot return.

Whilst putting the LR wheel back on noticed the stone shield on the Koni shocker has been torn away - trying to find a card reader for my camera - study has eaten it - so will post up shots later - pretty violent damage, and the shocker will be rooted for sure - lucky I have a couple of spares.

[MudRunnerTD]

Stripped down the feont diff and removed the centre to swap out for a 4.1 with airlockee. Swivel hubs where os very poor shape so turned into a full rebuild. Finished at 7:30 tonight. Needless ro say im cooked

[MudRunnerTD]

Does sound like a very efficient charger mate, actually in the market for a decent shed one myself these days. If time permits please do post up a link to the ‘Thunder 12v’ ripper, Cheers!


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Hey mark. I bit the bullet 2 years ago and spent $$$ on a decent charger. 15amp smart charger. 12v/24v. Beast Charger.

Noco Genius 15000

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/07/11.jpg



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[MB]

Cheers ‘daz’, appreciated! Too many choices now, looks The Tops :-)


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[mudski]

MB I will add with the Ctek, if the battery is fubar, the charger will let you know. Plus the recond mode is awesome. Did the battery in the wifes car which was dead flat, brought it back to life...

[MB]

SOLD!


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[jay see]

As there's a topic going one here. I'll ask the question.

I get what MB is saying about the charger putting charge into both batteries. My problem is that currently I have 2 different chemistry batteries aux is agm and starter is calcium. I know that I need to have different settings for each when charging, but when the charger is connected it's charging both as one system. Will putting an isolater in like the one pictured work. If I have it off/closed and the charger is connected to the aux it will only charge that one and when connected to the starter will only charge the starter?
Is that right..
When the starter needs to be replaced what is recommended so it will match the aux.

Thanks
Guys http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/07/17.jpg

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[AB]

Packing the GQ to take the solo daddy kids trip Thursday to Sunday up the Murray.

If anyone here miraculously is heading around Strathmerton / Tocumwal area then PM me.

[jay see]

I get what MB is saying about the charger putting charge into both batteries. My problem is that currently I have 2 different chemistry batteries aux is agm and starter is calcium. I know that I need to have different settings for each when charging, but when the charger is connected it's charging both as one system. Will putting an isolater in like the one pictured work. If I have it off/closed and the charger is connected to the aux it will only charge that one and when connected to the starter will only charge the starter?
Is that right..

Am I over thinking this.

Surely there are people with 2 different batteries that plug a charger in and just charge.

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[Yeti's Beast]

No , I charge them independently because a Calcium needs up to 16 v to charge properly and remove stratification where as the Agm shouldn’t go above 14.8 or you risk damage to it.
If the batteries are already charged and you want to just maintain them while not in use then being connected will be fine ,but charge on the AGM setting


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[jay see]

If the batteries are already charged and you want to just maintain them while not in use then being connected will be fine ,but charge on the AGM setting


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Thanks mate.

Batteries are charged, cars driven everyday. I was told to throw a charger on them every 3-6 months to keep them healthy extend their lives.

Think I'll still go with the isolater.

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[Bidja]

Thanks mate.

Batteries are charged, cars driven everyday. I was told to throw a charger on them every 3-6 months to keep them healthy extend their lives.

Think I'll still go with the isolater.

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Agree with Yeti's Best for independent charging. IMO, Good idea to occasionally charge your Calcium battery up to its 100% SOC voltage (eg: 16volts) if you are not already doing it as the alternator in the vehicle would be designed for FLA charge regime and would not reach the Calcium max charge voltage.

Also, have read that AGM have a lower float voltage than FLA. I guess AGM batteries would be adversely effected on long trip sitting at higher float voltage especially in prolonged hotter operating conditions (somthing to consider).

The isolator you illustrated would work but I would prefer to use some thing like a red keyed operated one (eg: Airflow and need only on auxillary):

https://www.sparesbox.com.au/part/aeroflow-af49-4050-battery-isolator-switch-and-red-key-af49-4050?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1dHDrMKC3AIVwyMrCh2OOgsIEAQ YASABEgIQF_D_BwE

[Yeti's Beast]

Thanks mate.

Batteries are charged, cars driven everyday. I was told to throw a charger on them every 3-6 months to keep them healthy extend their lives.

Think I'll still go with the isolater.

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Every car owners manual that I have read over the years actual says to charge the battery to help extend there lives.
But yes it is always good to keep them topped up


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[jay see]

Thanks fellas

All taken onboard. [emoji106]

I'm sure this will also help others too.

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[PeeBee]

Fitted new brake master cylinder, bleeding it on Saturday, hope it fixes the problem.

[rusty_nail]

Fitted thishttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/07/43.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/07/44.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/07/45.jpg

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[Bidja]

Changing out the front rotors yesterday arvo on the GU and got some good use out of a breaker bar and torque wrench that I made as a first year fitter and machinist apprentice (1971). Back then, they taught well, also made wheel pullers, vices, socket bar extension, ratchet wrenches etc, still use them.

The rotors were stubborn but got it sorted. Used a stand and square brass dolly under the wheel stud to crack and torque up (worked a treat). Off to another Doc appointment. Rear rotors and pads tonight.

[Hodge]

Fitted thishttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/07/43.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/07/44.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/07/45.jpg

Sent from my SM-G930F using TapatalkThat looks awesome mate.
What brand is it ??

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[rusty_nail]

That looks awesome mate.
What brand is it ??

Sent from Note 5 using TapaProBought it off gumtree, brand new from a mob in Craigieburn. Had to cut around the towbar as it didn't have a cutout and needed to buy new lights as the ones it came with we illegal(only had indicators no brake or tail light), modified existing factory mud flaps to still fit and had to make up the number plate mount as there was no place for it. It's ok quality but tbh you get what you pay for, it was $800 including the spare tyre and Jerry can holder. Had to spend an extra$20 on number plate lights and $20 on led indicators but still happy with the result.

I wouldn't buy this unless you are prepared to get your hands dirty, it definitely didn't just bolt on lol

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[Bidja]

Early this morning, before going to bed, finished changing out front/rear disk brake rotors and pads, dba slotted T2 rotors and Bendix pads HD (rear) and some Ferodo 4WD (front).

New Jonny Tig intercooler did not arrive yesterday, that will have to wait a few weeks now "dissapointed". Has been in Sydney freight depot since Thursday 5.30am (slack).

[PeeBee]

Finally finished the TB42 Brake upgrade. Problems experienced were mostly due to lack of attention to detail. I had the calipers installed with the bleed nipples to the bottom, which is why I could not get the air out, so swapped them over to opposite sides of the truck, and bingo, job finished in 10 minutes!. Pedal feel is different to the single pots, less pressure on pedal for same brake effect, now looking to try and even the braking front to rear as it locks up the fronts in the wet under hard braking. Need to revisit the wheel bearing adjustm,ent also as the hubs were hot to touch after a 5klm drive.

[Bidja]

Finally finished the TB42 Brake upgrade. Problems experienced were mostly due to lack of attention to detail. I had the calipers installed with the bleed nipples to the bottom, which is why I could not get the air out, so swapped them over to opposite sides of the truck, and bingo, job finished in 10 minutes!. Pedal feel is different to the single pots, less pressure on pedal for same brake effect, now looking to try and even the braking front to rear as it locks up the fronts in the wet under hard braking. Need to revisit the wheel bearing adjustm,ent also as the hubs were hot to touch after a 5klm drive.

Good that the brakes are coming together, the lessons we have forgotten until one does it again..-:)

Never have used torque wrench on any wheel bearing ever. Noted you have the GU wheel bearing pre load adjustment nut etc:


change out the nuts, lock washer and screws, plus buy a spanner that fits.

Firstly I do not over pack out hubs with grease maybe 3/4 max available space (with fingers) between races and and use say a 15"" bar to tighten up the pre-load adjust ring nut (only firm pressure to get a solid feel on ring nut and rotate hub back and forth as you tighten "subjective" but I rather have control of how it feels). Then have a look where the lock washer hole align up an back off slightly to locate the lock screws. And of course after 300-500km or so hundred kms check pre-load after settle in period. Yes heat is a good indicator, mine only ever get warm, not hot and of course no feel of bearing side slap with wheel jacked up off the ground.

A decent size re build job there.

John

[PeeBee]

Thanks John, yes it is a task and a half, especially when its been 25yrs since I did the last one!! Anyway, darren's build thread was a saving grace up to a point, then it was a case of trying to resolve the 'illogical' and this happened a couple of times. Happy its basically done, just need to find another window to revisit the wheel bearings, which should not take too long. The GU wheel brg nuts were standard on my model , July 1997, so last shipment from japan. They are simplicity, however the studs fitted to the spanners are very weak. I broke one and have since refurbished it using button head unbrako screws and this is much better, tapped the holes and loctited the screw into the spanner.

Unfortunately there is no actual rebuild or assy process avail for the TB42EI calipers, so simple stuff like orientation of the caliper for example would have been useful. The single pot nissan calipers have the LH/RH stamping, but the twin calipers made by Sumitomo don't have any hints at all. Anyway, lesson learned as you said, but don't expect I will need to do this job again., and if I do, someone else will be doing it! I will do a quick summary of the brake upgrade and post up later, warts and all.

[Bidja]

Good reference material is hard to come by and it is so easy to forget the way it was. Once I did not even think anything of getting out the honing tool and drill to repair the master or wheel cyl and re kit them (mid 70s swb cruiser/drum brakes). Maybe the vehicles I have had for the last 20+ yrs have not been as old or have an easier life.

[gaddy]

New table ready for a upcoming Simpson crossing .http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/07/66.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/07/67.jpg

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[PeeBee]

I like that double folding table idea - might look at doing the same on my smaller Alum. fold down table - well done and thanks for the photos

[mudski]

Started the big dash disassemble tonight. Just to remove the heater core...
75805

[Yeti's Beast]

Started the big dash disassemble tonight. Just to remove the heater core...
75805

Commiserations [emoji22]


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[mudski]

Commiserations [emoji22]


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Thanks. I think. Its not too hard to do, theres just a crap load to take out. If the dash was untouched and original with no added gauges and all the other shite, I would have finished by now.

[PeeBee]

Here are some shots taken of removing the king pin bearings on the front hubs, plus if you are doing the TB42 E brake upgrade, don't forget you need to transplant the original hub into the disk - I had a moment of freak out until I realised this also neede7580775808d to happen. Its a simple task, undo 6 bolts and ease the hub out of the original disk, then fit to the new, larger diameter disk. MudRunnerTD, over to you my friend to integrate into your hub build or not!

Also, don't mount your calipers upside down - make sure the bleed nipple is at the top of the caliper, otherwise you will spend the rest of your life trying to bleed the air out of the brakes. I know because I went thru 2 litres of brake fluid before the mistake was recognised.

[PeeBee]

75809758107581175811

[Rossco]

Started the big dash disassemble tonight. Just to remove the heater core...
75805Yikes ! Good luck. .

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[mudski]

Yikes ! Good luck. .

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God I hope I get it back together in time for Licola. I will be a dead man if I don't.

[Bidja]

Started the big dash disassemble tonight. Just to remove the heater core...

Mark, my GUIV only required the glove box unit to be removed, disconnect water, retaining bolts and core slid out of cradle to the left. Did you run a UV light over the residual fluid on floor to make sure it was not the A/C fluid weeping at the firewall flange joints and coming thru. This was the cause of my liquid on the floor mat (passenger side), ran UV over it and glowed. Guess you pressure tested cooling system to inspect core...Lot of work there mate.

[the evil twin]

Mark, my GUIV only required the glove box unit to be removed, disconnect water, retaining bolts and core slid out of cradle to the left.

Mark...

We seriously need a selfie of your face when you read that...

Right or wrong doesn't matter... just that instant in time as the brain processes the post should be priceless I reckon.
Maybe even a good theme for the next months photo comp "The look on a persons face when..."

[mudski]

Mark, my GUIV only required the glove box unit to be removed, disconnect water, retaining bolts and core slid out of cradle to the left. Did you run a UV light over the residual fluid on floor to make sure it was not the A/C fluid weeping at the firewall flange joints and coming thru. This was the cause of my liquid on the floor mat (passenger side), ran UV over it and glowed. Guess you pressure tested cooling system to inspect core...Lot of work there mate.

You sure that wasn't the A/C evap you are thinking of. As I have done mine before and that pretty much all I had to do. The heater box is located centre of the dash right above the transmission tunnel.

Edit : See link for GUIV removal. Same as mine.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?21229-GU-patrol-heater-core-replacement

[PeeBee]

Fark me, wouldn't it be easier to wear two pairs of socks - that is one frightening project mark, god good luck.

[mudski]

Fark me, wouldn't it be easier to wear two pairs of socks - that is one frightening project mark, god good luck.

It will give me a chance to neaten up the wiring too. Plus get some sound deadening stuff on the firewall to try to muffle the intake noise from the intercooler.

[Bidja]

You sure that wasn't the A/C evap you are thinking of. As I have done mine before and that pretty much all I had to do. The heater box is located centre of the dash right above the transmission tunnel.

Edit : See link for GUIV removal. Same as mine.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?21229-GU-patrol-heater-core-replacement

As I recall, initially it was thought that the heater core was leaking and I went to an A/C - Radiator shop, where they removed all the under dash fan unit assy, and ducting up to the center console.
They then removed a fin cored unit that sat up in behind the center console with two flange pipe connectors to it. Thought this was the heater core? At this stage this core was inspected and deemed to be serviceable and was reinstalled as it was a genuine unit. They then used an UV light and identified that the leak was A/C fluid and did a service on the A/C unit (maybe evap?), fitted new o-rings /seals and re-installed. Then they pressurized A/C unit and leak was still present and it was discovered that the o-rings at the firewall flange A/C joints were deformed solid and were not sealing.

This is as I recall the event and am very prepared to be put on the right track as it is fairly unfamiliar territory and consider correction/guidance to be a part of good learning.. Thanks mate

[mudski]

Mark...

We seriously need a selfie of your face when you read that...

Right or wrong doesn't matter... just that instant in time as the brain processes the post should be priceless I reckon.
Maybe even a good theme for the next months photo comp "The look on a persons face when..."

Yeah I had a slight hint of rage flush through me when I first read it. Then I realised it was a/c evaporator that comes out easy. Hopefully tonight I'll get the lot out including the heater box.

[mudski]

Oh god! http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/07/81.jpg


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[mudski]

There’s the bloody heater box! Right in the middle.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/07/82.jpg


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[Yeti's Beast]

There’s the bloody heater box! Right in the middle.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/07/82.jpg


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Your braver than me, I think I would of set it on fire.
Now while you have it apart please have a look and tell me why my air control flaps rattle.


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[jack]

Mark, while it's open install a Cabin Filter. Just did mine and amazed what a load of crap/dust/leaves were in there.
Quick vacuum and all good, here's the link and less than half the price of RYCO or REPCO
http://www.brettstruck.com.au/Listing/search?keywords=AC2503&sortItem=7&sortDirection=0&searchType=2

[Bacho86]

Oh god! http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/07/81.jpg


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You are a brave, brave man!!

You upgrading to a S4 dash whistle you’re at it? [emoji12] lol


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[Rossco]

Ooh got job Markie, just make sure you do up those hose clamps [emoji2]. . .

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[mudski]

Your braver than me, I think I would of set it on fire.
Now while you have it apart please have a look and tell me why my air control flaps rattle.


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Not sure mate. Mine don't rattle. :)

Mark, while it's open install a Cabin Filter. Just did mine and amazed what a load of crap/dust/leaves were in there.
Quick vacuum and all good, here's the link and less than half the price of RYCO or REPCO
http://www.brettstruck.com.au/Listing/search?keywords=AC2503&sortItem=7&sortDirection=0&searchType=2
Yeah I installed one ages ago Jack. It actually just slides in the a/c evap box. Easily accessible.

You are a brave, brave man!!

You upgrading to a S4 dash whistle you’re at it? [emoji12] lol


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Yeah I thought about it. But I need to replace the rear bumper first.

[mudski]

Ooh got job Markie, just make sure you do up those hose clamps [emoji2]. . .

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I will have to remember a lot when putting it all back in.

[MB]

Oh god! http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/07/81.jpg


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Like you said Mr Mark, great time to clean up all aftermarket wires whilst in there too, top idea/work!
Reckon I’d slack off refitting it all though and just cut a Bunnings checker plate tradie tool box in half longways as a new robust dash for ease of opening next time around. Would probably loose the damn lock keys again no doubt knowing me :-)


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[mudski]

Like you said Mr Mark, great time to clean up all aftermarket wires whilst in there too, top idea/work!
Reckon I’d slack off refitting it all though and just cut a Bunnings checker plate tradie tool box in half longways as a new robust dash for ease of opening next time around. Would probably loose the damn lock keys again no doubt knowing me :-)


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Haha! While I have the heater box out I will replace all the foam bits too. Wish I had more time because now I want to rip the entire interior out now, lay some sound deadening down and put new carpet in. But Licola is coming up and the boss wants her garage space back.

Now I have this apart, I really cannot see how you can remove the heater box without removing every first as some have said on Facebook. Physically impossible.

[Rossco]

Yeah that's what i did with mine replaced all the bits that seal the joints as the factory foam backed tape turns to dust. . . And sound deadening used PingJing chinese version of dynamat but cheaper and just as good. .

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[Bidja]

Yeah I had a slight hint of rage flush through me when I first read it. Then I realised it was a/c evaporator that comes out easy. Hopefully tonight I'll get the lot out including the heater box.

Mark, Thought the heater core was housed in the cradle behind the heater directional flap control box up in behind center console for GUIV?
This is certainly where my radiator hot water flow and return pipes go.

Is this the same configuration for all GUs wagons?

[mudski]

Mark, Thought the heater core was housed in the cradle behind the heater directional flap control box up in behind center console for GUIV?
This is certainly where my radiator hot water flow and return pipes go.

Is this the same configuration for all GUs wagons?

Yeah see in the pic of my mess. The white box houses the heater core. The black box to the left houses the a/c evaporator and to the left of that is the fan motor and box.

[PeeBee]

Propped up the patrol to check the wheel brgs adjustment - all good. Swapped out the damaged shocker - total write-off. Measured up the spring length on the brake proportional valve and its a weird setup. The free spring length is 195mm, should be in the range of 208 to 220 by the manual. Its an 'tension spring' meanings its pulling the two spring mount points together, and I can't see how i am going to get it anywhere near the ideal. Right now the lever on the arm is sitting off the actual hex head bolt that restricts movement. Any help would be appreciated. I am running an extension bracket due to the 3" nominal lift in the back, should this be removed - if I do remove it the spring will come under more load and try to shorten its length.

[mudski]

From what I remember Phil the arm and spring should be at right angles to each other with the vehicle unladen. There is a pdf on the interwebs somewhere about this....

[PeeBee]

From what I remember Phil the arm and spring should be at right angles to each other with the vehicle unladen. There is a pdf on the interwebs somewhere about this....

Thanks Mark, they are pretty much as you mention, however Darren MudRunnerTD directed me to the spring length parameter which is in the manual, hence where the lengths came from. Braking is a lot better now after a few klm;s on the new disks and pads, but there is still a front brake bias thats a bit out of kilter I reckon.

[mudski]

The box is out! Now to source a noo one!7581575816
75817


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[Bidja]

Yeah see in the pic of my mess. The white box houses the heater core. The black box to the left houses the a/c evaporator and to the left of that is the fan motor and box.

Yeah this is what I thought. The radiator guy that took out my heater core to check for potential leaks, which there were none (only was A/C fluid), did not remove the complete dash. They removed the glove box assy, under dash skirt, center console cover, fan housing assy, then A/C evaporator, then unbolted the heater core double ended flange pipe sections (one for for each of the heater core flow and return removable pipe). By undoing and removal of these double ended flange joint pipe sections, that cross past the core end and removed the core retaining bolts allowed the core to be slid out of the cradle to the left.

Note: I understand that after market non genuine GUIV heater cores (others veh builds maybe the same), have the flow and return pipe welded solid into the end face of the heater core unit that prevents for easy removal as per my GUIV build.

Glad I have not got your job there mate, looks impressive, think I would get lost in there.

[Bidja]

The box is out! Now to source a noo one!7581575816
75817


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This shows the difference to mine, the GUIV has a second flange joint at the first/second bend (both pipes) to provide a clear pass.

[Winnie]

Haha! While I have the heater box out I will replace all the foam bits too. Wish I had more time because now I want to rip the entire interior out now, lay some sound deadening down and put new carpet in. But Licola is coming up and the boss wants her garage space back.

Now I have this apart, I really cannot see how you can remove the heater box without removing every first as some have said on Facebook. Physically impossible.Mate you can't pass up the opportunity to put some sound deadening in behind the dash now.
Be stupid not to!

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[Bidja]

Find a leak, hook up a garden hose/compressed airnow. Well done.

Somewhere to start - These guy post all over for aftermarket stuff (Adrad systems distributor also) - Phillip Radiator Services, Phillip ACT / Ph 6282 3926. I priced genuine for mine 6mths back was around $1100+ from memory

[mudski]

Radiator out. Thermostat out. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/07/101.jpg

I’ll send the rad off for a clean in and out, and a Tridon high flow stat to go in. Now back to thinking of how to go about the wiring that is under the dash. Well. Was under the dash.


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[mudski]

Mate you can't pass up the opportunity to put some sound deadening in behind the dash now.
Be stupid not to!

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Yeah thats what I thought but there is already some deadening there. See pic. Unless I remove the OEM stuff and put the good shit there.

[Rossco]

Yeah thats what I thought but there is already some deadening there. See pic. Unless I remove the OEM stuff and put the good shit there.Yeah use both if you do put the ping jing on the firewall then put the factory stuff back over it.

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[Bidja]

Propped up the patrol to check the wheel brgs adjustment - all good. Swapped out the damaged shocker - total write-off. Measured up the spring length on the brake proportional valve and its a weird setup. The free spring length is 195mm, should be in the range of 208 to 220 by the manual. Its an 'tension spring' meanings its pulling the two spring mount points together, and I can't see how i am going to get it anywhere near the ideal. Right now the lever on the arm is sitting off the actual hex head bolt that restricts movement. Any help would be appreciated. I am running an extension bracket due to the 3" nominal lift in the back, should this be removed - if I do remove it the spring will come under more load and try to shorten its length.

Phil, check out page 48-51 of Y61 Patrol Reference document, should help out.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/ZD30-Y61-Nissan-Patrol.pdf

eg: Nissan Patrol Reference Document
Page 50 of 120
After correction the spring is closer to a 90 degree angle (full line)
As opposed to where it was prior to the bracket being fitted (dashed line)

[PeeBee]

Phil, check out page 48-51 of Y61 Patrol Reference document, should help out.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/ZD30-Y61-Nissan-Patrol.pdf

eg: Nissan Patrol Reference Document
Page 50 of 120
After correction the spring is closer to a 90 degree angle (full line)
As opposed to where it was prior to the bracket being fitted (dashed line)

Many thanks for that, I will have a look at it tomorrow. Additionally I realised the actual dimension of the spring is measured with your foot on the brake - think I recall that correctly, so will get a stick of the correct length and jam it on the pedal and see what goes.

[Bidja]

Your braver than me, I think I would of set it on fire.
Now while you have it apart please have a look and tell me why my air control flaps rattle.


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Does it rattle, like plastic insulated wire loom against hard surface sound (but it is not)... lol @ 2200-2500 rpm under slight eng load (more often in colder weather) and appears to come from in and up behind center console?

Can you stop it by rotating flap control dial to demist (stops only sometimes)?

[Yeti's Beast]

Does it rattle, like plastic insulated wire loom against hard surface sound (but it is not)... lol @ 22-2500 rpm under slight eng load (more often in colder weather) and appears to come from in and up behind center console?

Can you stop it by rotating flap control dial to demist (stops only sometimes)?

Hi
Yes if I turn the dial slightly it will sometimes stop rattling or moving to delist and back. It depends on the day. Mostly if I turn it half way to the next setting it will stop.
It’s often worse in warmer months.
Cheers


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[Bidja]

Hi
Yes if I turn the dial slightly it will sometimes stop rattling or moving to delist and back. It depends on the day. Mostly if I turn it half way to the next setting it will stop.
It’s often worse in warmer months.
Cheers


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OK, this is what I did after lots of yoga from under the dash. Remove center console cover and remove lower RHS dash shroud (adjacent to center counsel) and why not remove radio(easy), if you want. Go for a drive and when nose comes on, place hand/fingers in against flap control linkages on the RHS side of flap box and with slight sideways finger pressure, move around against flap control linkages and you should be able to stop the rattle. Mine was the small sector switch plate that had a felt washer on its pivot post (between the switch plate and the flap box side). I removed some of the sideways play by using slightly thicker felt washer (made up x 2 thickness). Think there was a screw holding a switch plate in position on its pivot point. The linkages have a slight amount of grease at the pivots and link arms, try a little more grease to absorb vibration and I even bent/deformed the sector plate a little to gain more clearance. You can easily slide your fingers in thru from front RHS of counsel with cover removed and access the sector plate holding screw linkages etc from up/under dash with lower shroud removed. Initially the noise seemed to come from all over the place (air ducting and even thought snorkel fixing bolts) but mainly center console cover area. Good idea to check snorkel retaining bolts while playing as mine were loose a little.

Nissan had dash out twice before I found that the linkages were at fault.

[mudski]

This is the sound deadening stuff I got Rossco. The stuff you got. did it have some weight to it? The stuff I got is quite light. But thick.
75818

[mudski]

I also had to cut the carpet out this arvo too. Was bloody soaked under it and starting to get a bit of mould.

[PeeBee]

Many thanks for that, I will have a look at it tomorrow. Additionally I realised the actual dimension of the spring is measured with your foot on the brake - think I recall that correctly, so will get a stick of the correct length and jam it on the pedal and see what goes.

OK, brackets are at 90 deg, or within a degree judging by the square i used. The spring arm is sitting at 196mm whether i have no brakes applied or a pole jamming the brake pedal down - shouldn't this dimension change? Next step is to pull the thing out and see if its jammed up. This is getting a bit annoying now but I guess i am learning stuff.

[Bidja]

OK, brackets are at 90 deg, or within a degree judging by the square i used. The spring arm is sitting at 196mm whether i have no brakes applied or a pole jamming the brake pedal down - shouldn't this dimension change? Next step is to pull the thing out and see if its jammed up. This is getting a bit annoying now but I guess i am learning stuff.

My understanding is that the spring length would change only when vehicle is in motion when the proportioning valve is compensating for the
"differences in weight distribution front-to-rear as well as the forward weight shift that occurs when the brakes are applied."

[garett]

i threw some black on the rear bar.

[mudski]

OK, brackets are at 90 deg, or within a degree judging by the square i used. The spring arm is sitting at 196mm whether i have no brakes applied or a pole jamming the brake pedal down - shouldn't this dimension change? Next step is to pull the thing out and see if its jammed up. This is getting a bit annoying now but I guess i am learning stuff.

The arm doesnt move when you apply the brakes. It only varies the amount of brake fluid that passes through the valve to the rear brakes, if that what you are referring to sorry...

[PeeBee]

Mark, I think I need to do some reading on this. Right now I have a front brake bias, which results in a noticeable dip when braking moderately hard. Before the twin caliper upgrade the vehicle stayed flat but braked very poorly, due to the excessive weight. I dont know if I will actually get a better brake effect if the rears get higher pressure or they will simply lock up. I guess I am trying to hit some defined dimension in the manual that has the spring length at between 208 and 220mm. Mine sits at 196mm. If the arm is forced against the spring stopper screw, that is factory set, the most I get is a spring length of 200mm. What is the extra 8mm - 20mm going to do for me, or isn't it important? I cannot tell if the plunger in the proportional valve is even moving, so have to remove it I think. Even if it is moving, there is approx 5mm of free movement avail on the spring before it hits the stopper screw.

[Rossco]

This is the sound deadening stuff I got Rossco. The stuff you got. did it have some weight to it? The stuff I got is quite light. But thick.
75818Yeah it's pretty heavy basically tar on foil. Interesting to see how that goes. Mine is definitely better but by no means is a rolls tho still a noisy bugger. .

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[mudski]

Decided to start removing the entire interior now and replace the carpet. It’s the original carpet, it’s dirty as, ripped and holed so out it comes. Slowly starting to freak out a little. Getting to close to Licola.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/07/118.jpg


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[Bidja]

Decided to start removing the entire interior now and replace the carpet. It’s the original carpet, it’s dirty as, ripped and holed so out it comes. Slowly starting to freak out a little. Getting to close to Licola.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/07/118.jpg


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That looks like punishment there mate. What have you done...hahaha

[mudski]

Fark it! So I’m thinking to just replace the carpet in the cab and not worry about the back because I have drawers, a cage and fridge slide. Well the carpet in the front goes up the back and under the cage. So this mean an entire interior removal!!! Cage, drawers everything needs to come out!


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[Winnie]

It's not that hard to do it again later in the back if you're running out of time now mate.
If I was doing mine I would not replace the rear carpet because of drawers.

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[Bidja]

don't forget the compressor:bowdown:

[Yeti's Beast]

Fitted these today
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/07/119.jpg
It’s amazing, I have my clutch working again and it’s ten times lighter
[emoji106]


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[mudski]

It's not that hard to do it again later in the back if you're running out of time now mate.
If I was doing mine I would not replace the rear carpet because of drawers.

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Yes but the front part of the carpet goes up under the drawer about two inches. I’m gonna cheat and remove the cage, unbolt the front of the drawers and lift it up and tuck the carpet underhttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/07/120.jpg75822


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[mudski]

Fitted these today
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/07/119.jpg
It’s amazing, I have my clutch working again and it’s ten times lighter
[emoji106]


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It’s always great when things work as they should.


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[Winnie]

Yes but the front part of the carpet goes up under the drawer about two inches. I’m gonna cheat and remove the cage, unbolt the front of the drawers and lift it up and tuck the carpet underhttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/07/120.jpg75822


Sent from my crapPhone using TapatalkBugger... Too late to turn around now anyway! Enjoy it

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[MudRunnerTD]

The box is out! Now to source a noo one!7581575816
75817


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OK!! I have to share this with you mate.......

Dont Hate me.....


75839

[MudRunnerTD]

Hey mudski you should be doing all this in your Build thread mate. it took some finding here and will be lost forever. Even a special thread for the heater core. I reckon your build thread though mate.

[Bidja]

Mark, guess there is always another way. Lot of aftermarket ones out there have the flow and return pipes welded into core/no flange and that what makes it harder.

[mudski]

OK!! I have to share this with you mate.......

Dont Hate me.....


75839

They took the a/c box out. Degas and Regas will make this exercise even more expensive, I ain’t doing that. Besides, this has given me the opportunity to do some things that Ive wanted to do for a long time.


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[mudski]

Got the sound deadening in. Well most of it. Stupid me bought not enough lol.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/07/128.jpg
The passenger side foot well I fell short.


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[mudski]

Hey mudski you should be doing all this in your Build thread mate. it took some finding here and will be lost forever. Even a special thread for the heater core. I reckon your build thread though mate.

Yeah my build thread is buggered. A while back I had issues with imageshack or photobucket, cant remember, not bringing up photos. So in my wisdom I decided to delete all the pic and start uploading again. But I just made it worse, lol. Then I gave up. So, its gone. Maybe I should just start a new one.

[MudRunnerTD]

Yeah my build thread is buggered. A while back I had issues with imageshack or photobucket, cant remember, not bringing up photos. So in my wisdom I decided to delete all the pic and start uploading again. But I just made it worse, lol. Then I gave up. So, its gone. Maybe I should just start a new one.

Start a new one mate

[GQtdauto]

2 new 33 in maxxis MT tyres , probably a lot dearer here but no choice they were $380 each fitted and balanced

[mudski]

I forgot I had these. A GUIV clock spring and steering wheel radio switch for the GUIV leather wheel I retro fitted. Contemplating grafting this into the already modified clock spring I have.
75842

Also more goodies today. Hi flow stat and New hoses, new spring load T bolt clamps and decent full stainless hose clamps that won’t destroy the rubber hoses.
75843


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[PeeBee]

New set of wheel nuts all round, pulled the dash apart to get to the back of the radio. reception is fine in the metro area, then absolutely crap by the time I get 25k down the road. Found the antenna cable pulled out of the rear - no doubt I have managed to do that at some point when pushing cables around, so in it went. Still crackly on AM and does not pick up many channels, unsure what the problem is now. Also found the recently installed clock plug could be seated further in, so keen to see if that fixes the intermittent glow or not.

[Bidja]

New set of wheel nuts all round, pulled the dash apart to get to the back of the radio. reception is fine in the metro area, then absolutely crap by the time I get 25k down the road. Found the antenna cable pulled out of the rear - no doubt I have managed to do that at some point when pushing cables around, so in it went. Still crackly on AM and does not pick up many channels, unsure what the problem is now. Also found the recently installed clock plug could be seated further in, so keen to see if that fixes the intermittent glow or not.

Good to see your resting that big toe of yours Phil, guess you are laying down on the floor with your foot up on the driver seat which is good.

[PeeBee]

Good to see your resting that big toe of yours Phil, guess you are laying down on the floor with your foot up on the driver seat which is good.

No rest for me! I am up and down ladders all day plugging cracks in the plaster and then prepping for painting. The truck is a sneaky activity when the wife goes to work! Looking at doing the front diff brace tomorrow morning and some other stuff on thursday.

[Bidja]

No rest for me! I am up and down ladders all day plugging cracks in the plaster and then prepping for painting. The truck is a sneaky activity when the wife goes to work! Looking at doing the front diff brace tomorrow morning and some other stuff on thursday.

Do understand, I started building my house in 2003 and still happening (my stairway to heaven), the car mods and stuff are doing just fine. Haha but seriously now, just have to reallocate priorities too many diverse interests.

Oh yes, I nearly forgot, I am in recovery mode after my operation last week and no heavy lifting >5kg per arm(6wks), Going to colour match the IC scoop tomorrow.

[mudski]

No rest for me! I am up and down ladders all day plugging cracks in the plaster and then prepping for painting. The truck is a sneaky activity when the wife goes to work! Looking at doing the front diff brace tomorrow morning and some other stuff on thursday.

When your done their Phil, come to my place mate. A house built in 73', had not been touched since, including the entire 1800sq/m of land. Plenty to do. But I love it.

[Bacho86]

Bought the patrol a new double din radio that should hook up to the reverse camera nicely

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/07/139.jpg


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[PeeBee]

No rest for me! I am up and down ladders all day plugging cracks in the plaster and then prepping for painting. The truck is a sneaky activity when the wife goes to work! Looking at doing the front diff brace tomorrow morning and some other stuff on thursday.

Swapped the order of the sneaky stuff today, rewired my fuel system heaters on main, second, remote strainer and final filter, so finger crossed won't have the gelling issues like last year when camped in the snow. Brace goes in Saturday now.

[PeeBee]

Mark, I think I need to do some reading on this. Right now I have a front brake bias, which results in a noticeable dip when braking moderately hard. Before the twin caliper upgrade the vehicle stayed flat but braked very poorly, due to the excessive weight. I dont know if I will actually get a better brake effect if the rears get higher pressure or they will simply lock up. I guess I am trying to hit some defined dimension in the manual that has the spring length at between 208 and 220mm. Mine sits at 196mm. If the arm is forced against the spring stopper screw, that is factory set, the most I get is a spring length of 200mm. What is the extra 8mm - 20mm going to do for me, or isn't it important? I cannot tell if the plunger in the proportional valve is even moving, so have to remove it I think. Even if it is moving, there is approx 5mm of free movement avail on the spring before it hits the stopper screw.

mudski, I purchased a s/h compensator valve today and it feels entirely different to the one on the vehicle. The 'new one' travels full stroke to the factory set bolt head, and springs back to the bolt head when depressed - i am thinking mine is gunked or or something as it stops 5mm away from the bolt head, although it can be pulled back to the bolt head, but then springs back and away from it. Anyway, going to swap it over and see if there is any difference.

[mudski]

mudski, I purchased a s/h compensator valve today and it feels entirely different to the one on the vehicle. The 'new one' travels full stroke to the factory set bolt head, and springs back to the bolt head when depressed - i am thinking mine is gunked or or something as it stops 5mm away from the bolt head, although it can be pulled back to the bolt head, but then springs back and away from it. Anyway, going to swap it over and see if there is any difference.

Yeah quite possible your is stuffed if thats the case. Be interesting to see the difference once fitted.

[Bidja]

Colour matched (Base & clear coat), new JT cooler scoop, now a bit of compound then done. Waiting on JT cooler as had some extra boost port welded in.

[Mike02Ti]

Fitted LED h4 globes a couple of weeks ago. Finished doing LED indicator and park lights today to match it all in.
Replaced stock flasher unit with Narva one so no hyper flashing.
All working great. Happy with the outcome. Now to sort out the back end.

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