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Robo
15th January 2012, 06:14 PM
Hi guys.
have the usual mods.
Extractors, 2 1/2 full exh system, pertronic, iridium plugs.
what up with this 120y faster , any way what can be done?? to up the anti to this 4.2 and remain legal.

:)

YNOT
15th January 2012, 06:23 PM
Camshaft, head work, raising compression, fuel injection etc. Speed costs money - how fast do you want to go?

Tony

Robo
15th January 2012, 07:00 PM
Hi Tony.
after something better.
the amount of torque these have seems fairly ok but getting there is like watching paint dry.
was wondering what others are doing?.
would like v8 but can't justify those $$ and probable insurance problems.

Robo
15th January 2012, 08:01 PM
Ok who's doing engine reco / rebuild for more power for the street?.
Or can I buy the parts and do it myself?.

patch697
15th January 2012, 08:51 PM
Then don't waist a cent on the one you have & just put a TD42t in it.... It will probably work out cheaper cost wise. last heaps longer, have the power your looking for & be much better on fuel than a worked TB42 as well.

I've got a TB42 myself but after being in a TD42t I want one, so guess who'll be on the hunt himself later this year???....lol

Robo
15th January 2012, 09:21 PM
Then don't waist a cent on the one you have & just put a TD42t in it.... It will probably work out cheaper cost wise. last heaps longer, have the power your looking for & be much better on fuel than a worked TB42 as well.

I've got a TB42 myself but after being in a TD42t I want one, so guess who'll be on the hunt himself later this year???....lol
Thanks, but no thanks, don't agree.
I bought petrol on purpose, just want to get a few more herbs out.

Bigrig
15th January 2012, 10:22 PM
Ok who's doing engine reco / rebuild for more power for the street?.
Or can I buy the parts and do it myself?.

I've recently turbo'd my petrol (well LPG originally, about to be fully petrol again) and even with a small turbo, the power output is more than noticeable - untuned, with the truck having issues and because I'm an idiot mainly (lol), decided to test it out against a monkey in a Audi A6 that was sitting on my rear down a road near me - breaks into two lanes as you near traffic lights, but back into single lane about 50m the other side of the lights (you know the type, quality govt infrastructure!!). Anyways, he pulled out at the double lanes, and pulled up beside me - needless to say, I gave intent that I was going to make things difficult to which the toffee would not have given a second thought due to him being in an A6 and this clown beside him being in a 2.6 tonne patrol ...

Long story short, he needed about another 40-50 metres of parking lane after it went back into a single lane to do the patrol !!! Surprise of his life no doubt!!!

My point is they respond well to a turbo and pull strong ...

Having done what I've done, I wouldn't go through it again and would go straight for a bolt on kit - suss out Will Tobin's website (www.quickspool.com.au) as he does patrol specific kits ... not saying go with his necessarily, but will give you ideas ...

Good luck!!!

MQ MAD
16th January 2012, 01:11 PM
Hi guys.
have the usual mods.
Extractors, 2 1/2 full exh system, pertronic, iridium plugs.
what up with this 120y faster , any way what can be done?? to up the anti to this 4.2 and remain legal.

:)
My GQ TB42 EFI is 100% stock and theres no way itll get dusted by a 120Y and i dont sit around waiting for paint to dry, for a stock lump it holds its own,and dont think for a sec when the minister drives "Öh a sheila in a 4by thisll be easy " she takes no prisoners
From what ive heard its hard to tune and run both dual fuel and get the max power from both , its either one or the other
If it does seem like that 120Y has you dusted , maybe a full engine diagnosis is in order

97_gq_lwb
16th January 2012, 01:41 PM
Airflow might be restricted by the lpg mixer depending on wich type it is running.
I had a few tb42's years ago and messed with the secondary on the carb so it opened manually.
Changed the timing advance and fitted pertronix ignition with the extended rotor.

Robo
16th January 2012, 03:26 PM
120y is a figure of speech, we all know there slow.
I guess you read post wondering how to get more power outta your's also.
My other car is a GTR skyline, you know the little Nissan straight 6, that kicked v8 arse all over the mountain, so I guess I'm after a bit more performance.
Seeing as this Mav is mainly a highway cruise and occasional tow vehicle and not a mud pony.
I was thinking of e/swap to efi and turbo, I'm simply trying to find out what else out there works, and to just install efi ,sorry this isn't enough, for my taste, especially when towing.

MQ MAD
19th January 2012, 09:42 AM
A near 3 tonne lump of 4x4 just isnt comparable in power,handling,performance of a GTR skyline If you want the 4x4 to have the get up n go of the skyline it just wont happen even with an LS1 V8
So getting anywhere near the skylines performance from the 4.2 pettie, youll need very very deep pockets
Theres a big difference , i can tow 3 tonne quite comfortably with the patrol something the skyline cant do
I can sit on 100, overtake from 100,pull up hills with the load something the skyline cant do
Yes the skyline has the power,but there as different as chalk and cheese
I bought my patrol to tow, and it does everything that it was bought for and more, as i mentioned its 100% stock as a rock

Robo
19th January 2012, 10:57 PM
A near 3 tonne lump of 4x4 just isnt comparable in power,handling,performance of a GTR skyline If you want the 4x4 to have the get up n go of the skyline it just wont happen even with an LS1 V8
So getting anywhere near the skylines performance from the 4.2 pettie, youll need very very deep pockets
Theres a big difference , i can tow 3 tonne quite comfortably with the patrol something the skyline cant do
I can sit on 100, overtake from 100,pull up hills with the load something the skyline cant do
Yes the skyline has the power,but there as different as chalk and cheese
I bought my patrol to tow, and it does everything that it was bought for and more, as i mentioned its 100% stock as a rock

I get the Idea, your happy with your 4x4 the way it is. Happy for you.
All I'm after is info on what others are doing, I never said that i want Gtr performance, simply trying to make the point, I'm after a bit more herbs under my foot, and said so.
My 4x4 does similar to your claim also, just want to improve on that.
Thats why I created this thread, research a tried and tested way with the 4.2 petrol version.
I just prefer petrol and LPG, over diesel that s all.
If you know how to improve on 4.2 petrol ,please, I'm all ears.
And I'm sure other would be interested to read it also.
Cheers.

Bigrig
19th January 2012, 11:01 PM
I've gone back to straight petrol to be able to tune properly (not inbetween for the two) and after doing the turbo, the rig has now had the head machined to decompress (about 20cc to get to around 7.6-7.8 to 1 along with a tonne of other stuff!! lol It goes on the dyno on Tuesday, so I'll post the figures up for you - even as it was before (poorly tuned, and other issues) I'd say it was at least 40% more than standard - but truth will be revealed next week mate.

Robo
19th January 2012, 11:15 PM
I've gone back to straight petrol to be able to tune properly (not inbetween for the two) and after doing the turbo, the rig has now had the head machined to decompress (about 20cc to get to around 7.6-7.8 to 1 along with a tonne of other stuff!! lol It goes on the dyno on Tuesday, so I'll post the figures up for you - even as it was before (poorly tuned, and other issues) I'd say it was at least 40% more than standard - but truth will be revealed next week mate.

Sounds good.
some info on build would nice.
Turbo model and ratio ?.
manifolds, std or modified?.
exhaust size? twin dump pipe or single?.
mod computer who's or stock?.
Injectors stock or upgrade?
ETC.
Cheers

YNOT
19th January 2012, 11:20 PM
Not sure if this is much help but have a look at this thread and some of the links in it; http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?5612-Geolandar-Off-Road-Racing

Tony

Bigrig
19th January 2012, 11:26 PM
Sounds good.
some info on build would nice.
Turbo model and ratio ?.
manifolds, std or modified?.
exhaust size? twin dump pipe or single?.
mod computer who's or stock?.
Injectors stock or upgrade?
ETC.
Cheers

Most the information is spattered in my build thread mate but:

Garret imitation turbo (will get a ball bearing garret down the track)

Standard TD42 manifold

XR6 Turbo Intercooler - front mounted

3" dump pipe/2.75" exhaust mandrel bent no cat

Single dump pipe

Wolf V500 ECU

Bosch 660cc injectors (high performance and larger - have to be)

Wallbro high performance fuel pump

Wholesale Automatic stage II heavy duty valve body

And a range of assorted goodies!!

Robo
19th January 2012, 11:31 PM
Not sure if this is much help but have a look at this thread and some of the links in it; http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?5612-Geolandar-Off-Road-Racing

Tony

Thanks Tony.
I saw/read this 1 a couple of days ago, looks a bit on the wild side hey!.
Fun and games.
If you haven't seen anything on pikes peak, do a search, man their just nuts.

Robo.

Robo
19th January 2012, 11:36 PM
Will search for your thread.
Thanks.
Robo

Robo
19th January 2012, 11:44 PM
I came across someone modifying Gtr exh manifold, looked the goods for 4.2, if ya haven't seen these in std form, cast 3 to 1, by 2ea
there's a/m stainless 3 to 1 headers or even a/m 6 to 1 top mount and flow fantastic, so here's an option.

MQ MAD
20th January 2012, 11:20 AM
I get the Idea, your happy with your 4x4 the way it is. Happy for you.
All I'm after is info on what others are doing, I never said that i want Gtr performance, simply trying to make the point, I'm after a bit more herbs under my foot, and said so.
My 4x4 does similar to your claim also, just want to improve on that.
Thats why I created this thread, research a tried and tested way with the 4.2 petrol version.
I just prefer petrol and LPG, over diesel that s all.
If you know how to improve on 4.2 petrol ,please, I'm all ears.
And I'm sure other would be interested to read it also.
Cheers.
As whats been said its hard to get both LPG and petrol to both run well
Not many bother spending the bucks on a carb 4.2 as for the money to bother you can pick up an injected 5L V8 for about 1500 bucks, if even that nowadays
To spend even more on the TB , the 5L will have you all across the board
Then nowadays the LS1 engines can be had cheap
Im maybe not sure how much more power your chasin ???
How much money you spending
If for some reason my 4.2 pettie stuffs up , i wouldnt be spending any money on it , it would be to a V8
Itll have the same economy ,or lack of and heaps more go
After more power TB42 dual fuel ???
Maybe my answer should have been
How much money do you wanna spent
Up near 4 grand, go V8

taslucas
20th January 2012, 07:42 PM
How many kilowats does an LS1 have? I was just reading about a GU in a recent 4wd magazine. It has the 4.8 petrol with stock internals but with a turbo strapped on. He is getting 260 kilowats at the wheels on 35" tyres. Pretty nice!!

Robo
21st January 2012, 06:33 AM
How many kilowats does an LS1 have? I was just reading about a GU in a recent 4wd magazine. It has the 4.8 petrol with stock internals but with a turbo strapped on. He is getting 260 kilowats at the wheels on 35" tyres. Pretty nice!!

Yeah I get your Idea, I was thinking similar that's why I like the Idea of turbo myself, have a look at Marks Adapters web site.
he has a page that lists most oem engines, kW, HP, NM @ rev's .

taslucas
21st January 2012, 07:18 AM
The one I was talking about was a 4.8 not a 4.2 so I suppose you'd get a bit more there. But it shows some pretty big power gains. So it had the 260 Kw @ 4200 rpm and 1230 Nm @ around 2600 rpm. And yeah these figures were 'at the wheels' on 35's. Impressive!

Robo
21st January 2012, 07:33 AM
As whats been said its hard to get both LPG and petrol to both run well
Not many bother spending the bucks on a carb 4.2 as for the money to bother you can pick up an injected 5L V8 for about 1500 bucks, if even that nowadays
To spend even more on the TB , the 5L will have you all across the board
Then nowadays the LS1 engines can be had cheap
Im maybe not sure how much more power your chasin ???
How much money you spending
If for some reason my 4.2 pettie stuffs up , i wouldnt be spending any money on it , it would be to a V8
Itll have the same economy ,or lack of and heaps more go
After more power TB42 dual fuel ???
Maybe my answer should have been
How much money do you wanna spent
Up near 4 grand, go V8

Hi Bro.
$4K Me don't think so, more like $12k for a half decant job and not a bunch of unreliable 2nd hand parts.
where can you get a good engine and the nessary parts for 4k, make us a list up will ya please

Robo
21st January 2012, 07:45 AM
The one I was talking about was a 4.8 not a 4.2 so I suppose you'd get a bit more there. But it shows some pretty big power gains. So it had the 260 Kw @ 4200 rpm and 1230 Nm @ around 2600 rpm. And yeah these figures were 'at the wheels' on 35's. Impressive!
Yea sounds nice.
Thats the sort of reason I cant understand why bother e/swapping.
A 4.2 with say 30% turbo power up why bother go else where.
just efi by itself only a couple of kW and Nm but add a turbo, presto.

now fellers don't worry about written to argue about the merits of e/swap, it's simply a matter of personal choice ok.

Robo
21st January 2012, 07:48 AM
The one I was talking about was a 4.8 not a 4.2 so I suppose you'd get a bit more there. But it shows some pretty big power gains. So it had the 260 Kw @ 4200 rpm and 1230 Nm @ around 2600 rpm. And yeah these figures were 'at the wheels' on 35's. Impressive!

Is that figure nm correct, sounds alot

Bigrig
21st January 2012, 07:55 AM
Is that figure nm correct, sounds alot

Probably close to the mark - I'm not looking for a fire breathing dragon, but figures of 200kw+ and 800nm from the 4.2 was what I was told is more than achievable ...

That said, I'll be sacrificing both if needs be when it gets dyno'd for outright drivability and engine life ... if I get around 160-180kw at the rears (compared to about 90kw off the showroom floor) I'll be stoked.

taslucas
21st January 2012, 11:00 AM
Is that figure nm correct, sounds alot

Im fairly sure thats what it was. The mag is at work, i'll have a look to confirm when i go back monday.

A mates GQ TD4.2 Ute has a bigger turbo put on and bugga all else and he had it at 1080 Nm on the dyno. (i know diesel has more torque to start with)

Ben-e-boy
22nd January 2012, 04:36 PM
Hi Bro.
$4K Me don't think so, more like $12k for a half decant job and not a bunch of unreliable 2nd hand parts.
where can you get a good engine and the nessary parts for 4k, make us a list up will ya please

12g will give you more than a half decent job mate.

taslucas
23rd January 2012, 10:03 AM
Ok, having a look at the mag right now..... I was wrong about the torque....it's not 1230 Nm, it's 1250 Nm!!! @ 2700 rpm. And 260kw @ 4200 rpm. that's bl--dy tough! Maybe the owner is out there somewhere? Would be great to have a chat if you are.

Ben-e-boy
23rd January 2012, 10:52 AM
Ok, having a look at the mag right now..... I was wrong about the torque....it's not 1230 Nm, it's 1250 Nm!!! @ 2700 rpm. And 260kw @ 4200 rpm. that's bl--dy tough! Maybe the owner is out there somewhere? Would be great to have a chat if you are.

Its not that difficult to produce that much torque out of a big straight 6 cylinder. I have a mate with an 80 series petroll with 700hp and 1200+Nm of torque and a mate with an xr6 turbo with near 600hp and 1100Nm of torque

taslucas
23rd January 2012, 10:54 AM
Whats he done to the 80 series?
Either been dyno'd?

taslucas
23rd January 2012, 11:14 AM
Its not that difficult to produce that much torque out of a big straight 6 cylinder. I have a mate with an 80 series petroll with 700hp and 1200+Nm of torque and a mate with an xr6 turbo with near 600hp and 1100Nm of torque

That's what this thread is asking. Tell robo what ya know. Unless it's a secret lol

Ben-e-boy
23rd January 2012, 11:48 AM
Whats he done to the 80 series?
Either been dyno'd?

both been dynod
the land cruiser is 15 years of research and devopment (its built for track racing, and on road hill climb events) Ive ridden it many times I used to live with the owner. it torque steers and you can feel it twist the chassis when he's up it and the look on the skyline drivers face when he is getting his arse handed to him on a platter by a landcruiser is PRICLESS
an xr6 turbo can be made into a 10-11 second car with bolt on mods only. once you start working the motor ie heads, cams, etc you make big power

here is a pic of the cruisers engine bay

taslucas
23rd January 2012, 12:04 PM
Nice. The RB30 engines also make a lot of power with only bolt ons. Type "patrol Vs ......." into YouTube for some awesome 4wd drags.

Robo
23rd January 2012, 03:01 PM
Yeah that's right, but never going to do it for 4k not even if I do every single bit of labour my self.
and would still be 2 nd h/junk.
Been there done that, engine reco etc.
It's the Wife's tow vehicle and she travels a fair way to shows so I want and need reliability not junk.
This little black duck not going to be broken down more times than not.

Cheers

Robo
23rd January 2012, 03:13 PM
After more power is the title, not neck breaking chassis twisten and $30+k later.
Rb30 tend to throw rods when pushed and block not comparable with 4.2's .
yeah a half decant donk but I'm after life span.

taslucas
23rd January 2012, 03:51 PM
It's a sliding scale, the more power, the more money. And if you want more power AND reliability then it's even MORE money. If you find a cheap way of doing it I'm sure there'll be a lot of people interest lol.:-)

Ben-e-boy
23rd January 2012, 04:55 PM
Camshaft, head work, raising compression, fuel injection etc. Speed costs money - how fast do you want to go?

Tony


Hi Tony.
after something better.
the amount of torque these have seems fairly ok but getting there is like watching paint dry.
was wondering what others are doing?.
would like v8 but can't justify those $$ and probable insurance problems.


Hi Bro.
$4K Me don't think so, more like $12k for a half decant job and not a bunch of unreliable 2nd hand parts.
where can you get a good engine and the nessary parts for 4k, make us a list up will ya please


Yeah that's right, but never going to do it for 4k not even if I do every single bit of labour my self.
and would still be 2 nd h/junk.
Been there done that, engine reco etc.
It's the Wife's tow vehicle and she travels a fair way to shows so I want and need reliability not junk.
This little black duck not going to be broken down more times than not.

Cheers


After more power is the title, not neck breaking chassis twisten and $30+k later.
Rb30 tend to throw rods when pushed and block not comparable with 4.2's .
yeah a half decant donk but I'm after life span.

so 4 grand is your budge now not 12. your all over the place mate.
if its a tow/travel I agree with YNOT do the head, put a cam in it to increase torque and make good power at thighway speed

Robo
24th January 2012, 10:02 AM
OK then. start again.
After more power from 4.2 carby lwb 4x4 on dual fuel, this is a highway cruiser tow vehicle, daily driver.
Has all the usual mode so far.
Extractors, 2 1/2 exh system, pertronic, iridium plugs, morey's oil drip system.
2" raised and poly bag inside rear, caster correction etc.

After a power increase to tow so where not that 4x4 that hold everyone up at the first sign of a hill.
So approx 30% increase in power could be on the money.

After advise from someone that know's on what can be used to achieve a reliable engine for this sort of gain in power and the added torque.
Think v8 is over kill on cost and that this sort of power gain can be easy to achieve with efi cam and maybe turbo. And not interested in diesel.
$$$$ are not the question here I'm after the info.
Just to quote cam, injection, turbo , isn't a answer.This is obvious.
What has been done and or can be used, and parts spec's to achieve this sort of gain with reliability.
After the complete story for around 30% increase in power and the associated torque that goes along with it.

Cheers

Bigrig
24th January 2012, 11:54 AM
OK then. start again.
After more power from 4.2 carby lwb 4x4 on dual fuel, this is a highway cruiser tow vehicle, daily driver.
Has all the usual mode so far.
Extractors, 2 1/2 exh system, pertronic, iridium plugs, morey's oil drip system.
2" raised and poly bag inside rear, caster correction etc.

After a power increase to tow so where not that 4x4 that hold everyone up at the first sign of a hill.
So approx 30% increase in power could be on the money.

After advise from someone that know's on what can be used to achieve a reliable engine for this sort of gain in power and the added torque.
Think v8 is over kill on cost and that this sort of power gain can be easy to achieve with efi cam and maybe turbo. And not interested in diesel.
$$$$ are not the question here I'm after the info.
Just to quote cam, injection, turbo , isn't a answer.This is obvious.
What has been done and or can be used, and parts spec's to achieve this sort of gain with reliability.
After the complete story for around 30% increase in power and the associated torque that goes along with it.

Cheers

I think whatever way you'll go, you'd end up with at least 30% power increase with the ability to have more (i.e. low boost turbo = 30%; higher boosting = ??% possibly up to and over 100% even). A basic turbo kit (chinese ones which is what I have) and gear will probably be a decent start if you're only looking for low to mild boost (5-7 pounds) to get rid of the rigs fear of anything slightly uphill. Adding an intercooler to it is absolutely not necessary at that sort of boost, so that is a major cost saving straight away - turbo/wastegate/actuator etc; manifold, dump pipe, sump modification for oil line, etc I reckon you could get your hands on for under a couple of thousand at the very worst. For fitment of that to the rig, you should only be looking at the same (or considerably less) through a decent mechanic and you have the desired outcome for a fairly economical price - with the ability to kick it up in the future if you should decide to do so.

Brands etc are not something I know, but that would be the place to start - basic kits ... QuickSpool do a proper Garrett bolt on kit for the Patrols starting at $3999 and they achieve around 480hp!!!

Robo
25th January 2012, 08:23 AM
Thanks.
This is the exactly sort of response I'm after a brand name, can now research for info my self, good stuff
Chinese copy your talking about, is a kit or something you knocked up?.

Bigrig
25th January 2012, 08:29 AM
Thanks.
This is the exactly sort of response I'm after a brand name, can now research for info my self, good stuff
Chinese copy your talking about, is a kit or something you knocked up?.

Bought it as is mate - I'll drag out the details for it ...
I attached a Ford XR6 turbo to it also

MQ MAD
23rd February 2012, 05:02 PM
Ill throw this in Youve bought a carb dual fuel TB42 you want more power and your taking 12 GRAND on a motor ???
I mentioned 4K as to get the same power from a 4.2 straight six poxy carbed engine the V8 will be all over you for minimal $$$
Maybe you should explain yourself a touch better
What exact budget are we really talking about ???
12 K on a fully rebuild all new parts carbed TB42 for a 30% if that gain, reliable, more efficient , nah the cogs arent lining up
12K if thats your budget on an engine alone, an LS1 conversdion will be had for cheaper and still have you all across the field
Before your hang sh*t on me for this , look and read theres plenty who DONT rebuild there TB42 , because its cheaper to go the V8 route, more power and the same economy
Please dont bang on about 2nd hand bits , your talking a 12K engine in an old carb TB42 rig, that no doubt the rest of it wont be upto the task
12K on a TB42 for a 30% power increase, im glad your doin it

Anywho, ill sit back and enjoy the fruits of your labour
Keep me and others informed , im keen to see such a fine piece of machinery art

Robo
24th February 2012, 03:32 AM
Mate I can only say 1 thing, read original title.
in a nut shell.
"Improve 4.2 petrol". not convert to v8.

cheers.

MQ MAD
24th February 2012, 07:15 PM
Mate I can only say 1 thing, read original title.
in a nut shell.
"Improve 4.2 petrol". not convert to v8.

cheers.

OK,ill bite
Whats your BUDGET ???

Lets look 12K
Brand new crate engines
Brand new 502 CUIN ($11,950)
502 HP @5200 rpm
567 ft lb torque

350 chev ($6950)
388 hp
385 ft lb torque

Ford boss 363 cu in ($12500)
500 hp

eagleautoparts.com.au

These dont however include conversion kits,but that cost can depend on what you exactly buy and how knowledgable people are and what they can or cant do

A TB42 will never get reliable power anywhere near those about for 12 K

Realistic budget

MQ MAD
24th February 2012, 07:24 PM
Mate I can only say 1 thing, read original title.
in a nut shell.
"Improve 4.2 petrol". not convert to v8.

cheers.
So,ill bite , whats your realistic budget ???

Lets look at what 12 K gets in a "New chev crate engine"

502 cuin ($13750)
502 HP @ 5100 rpm
566 FT/LBS torque @ 3200 rpm

350 chev ($6950)
385 HP @ 6000 rpm
385 FT/LBS torque @ 4000 rpm

eagleautoparts.com.au

12K on a TB42,looking at the above , never ever even think of it

So whats your realistic budget ???
Are you rebuilding said engine or looking for bolt on mods,for a second hand engine ???

Bigrig
24th February 2012, 07:35 PM
OK,ill bite
Whats your BUDGET ???

Lets look 12K
Brand new crate engines
Brand new 502 CUIN ($11,950)
502 HP @5200 rpm
567 ft lb torque

350 chev ($6950)
388 hp
385 ft lb torque

Ford boss 363 cu in ($12500)
500 hp

eagleautoparts.com.au

These dont however include conversion kits,but that cost can depend on what you exactly buy and how knowledgable people are and what they can or cant do

A TB42 will never get reliable power anywhere near those about for 12 K

Realistic budget

Good post mate - only thing I'd add is I've spent under $12k on mine and with 7.5 lb of boost, I'm getting 191 HP and 514nm at the rears on 33's (posted the dyno results on my build thread last week). When I put the electronic boost control on, and up it to 12 lb (decompressed engine also for that amount) I'll be looking at something more like 280-300HP and 800nm at the rear wheels ... I wouldn't get that from an LS2 6.0 ltr that I looked into ($22000 fitted, crate motor and all adapters, etc).

That all said, you're spot on the money though with the other information. For around $10,000 you can turn the TB42 into something that pulls like a steam train ... I know of no TD42 (and no TB42 personally, although I've seen them on YouTube) that could match it with mine now - they're obviously out there, and have probably done similar and have the same thoughts and opinions as me on some aspects of what I'm writing here.

For anyone doing it though, I have three words for you ... preparation, preparation, and preparation!! Prepare for hurdles (moreso that increase the time off the road than the cost), prepare for problems with other components/wiring as you start fiddling with items that haven't been touched for 10 years and are temperamental (decide to fail as everything around them gets touched - my starter motor, my air conditioning, my dizzy module, my coil, etc, etc), and prepare for emotional ups and downs IF it doesn't follow the plan to the letter ... BUT, prepare to have a permanent grin on your dial 24x7 when it finally comes off the rack!!

taslucas
24th February 2012, 09:11 PM
i was wondering how long it would take for you to weigh in big! lol. After reading your build thread, Im with you mate.....Build the TB42. Im not a fan of LS1's. The standard TB42 i have has got 415,000kms on the same bottom end and going strong!
Build the TB42!

Bigrig
24th February 2012, 09:18 PM
i was wondering how long it would take for you to weigh in big! lol. After reading your build thread, Im with you mate.....Build the TB42. Im not a fan of LS1's. The standard TB42 i have has got 415,000kms on the same bottom end and going strong!
Build the TB42!

Thanks mate ... Corey is spot on with what he's suggesting though - that's the beauty I guess, when you're talking that much money, there's a good array of options to turn the truck into a fire breather (not what I wanted as such, the torque was what I was after). The thing that put me off the engine swap was the cost and fitment of the adaption kits ...

97_gq_lwb
24th February 2012, 10:01 PM
It's funny i have done a few head gaskets on tb42,s in the past various k's 250 350 and 400 The bores all looked perfect no lip i was surprised.
Pulled down quite a few chevs holden v8's with less k's and seen lips on one half of the bore that deep it wasn't funny.
Tb42 over gm junk any day i say.
Another thing i notice is that their are always gm junk patrols for sale seems like they fit one waste a lot of money spoil a good reliable car and can't wait to flog it off.

Robo
25th February 2012, 02:40 AM
WT heck, someone quoted a price for something I have no intention of doing anyway, and I replied more like a larger figure 12k as I would not be using 2nd hand parts even if I entertained that idea, and bugger me I'm suddenly quoted as saying I have posted a budget of 12k.
I tried to play nice and explain why I'm not going down that path and blow me down that's just not good enough.
try to research info on what's the go with improving a particular engine and info on doing something entirely different flows in, why.
And to be fair some useful info did post up and Thank-you very much for that.
I notice I'm not the only person who posted a thread of this nature and got something else in reply.
but someone out there, insists I do it his way.

not going to stick a v8 in my car reguardless of what it may cost so leave it be.
what was the reason the gen 1 engine used 1 litre of oil between changes, hummm let me think, it was their own accepted build quality wasn't it.

Bigrig
25th February 2012, 08:25 AM
WT heck, someone quoted a price for something I have no intention of doing anyway, and I replied more like a larger figure 12k as I would not be using 2nd hand parts even if I entertained that idea, and bugger me I'm suddenly quoted as saying I have posted a budget of 12k.
I tried to play nice and explain why I'm not going down that path and blow me down that's just not good enough.
try to research info on what's the go with improving a particular engine and info on doing something entirely different flows in, why.
And to be fair some useful info did post up and Thank-you very much for that.
I notice I'm not the only person who posted a thread of this nature and got something else in reply.
but someone out there, insists I do it his way.

not going to stick a v8 in my car reguardless of what it may cost so leave it be.
what was the reason the gen 1 engine used 1 litre of oil between changes, hummm let me think, it was their own accepted build quality wasn't it.

It's all good mate, that's what happens with the flow of a thread as people weigh in various points and opinions regarding which way to go - without conjecture and opinion, you'd never end up with "all the info" as it were. No one is suggesting the $4k figure mentioned earlier, no one is suggesting you spend $12k as mentioned yesterday etc, but there has been plenty of effort and time gone in by a few members to respond to make sure you are aware of possible alternatives, varying price ranges, various pitfalls of each, and potential outcomes of performance - from there hopefully some relevant information that'll assist you in the decision.

I've edited your last post (just the parting comment) as there is no need for it mate, misguided or misinterpreting in your perception or otherwise, people were trying to assist and spent a fair bit of time typing up responses (like this one) with no intent of offending or misquoting you. That's just the way conversations flow sometimes, but usually for the best final outcome.

Sooooo ... what's your thinking to this point? Exhaust, extractors, turbo, intercooler, cam shafts, decompression, etc, etc??? Any of the above??? You won't regret a bit of love on the TB42 and the best thing is, you can stage it so as budget is less of a factor (I.e. do say the exhaust and extractors now and then sit on them whilst you consider the next step; then maybe the turbo alone at low boost; then maybe an intercooler; then maybe some engine work such as decompression, cam shaft, etc; and it just goes on from there).

Fully appreciate the fact you went out of your way to thank those who responded in line with your post also.

Ahhhh, written forms of medium ... aren't they grand!!!! lol

Robo
25th February 2012, 06:26 PM
Well Bigrig alls good.just tired of getting no where fast.
Yes I am thinking turbo cam etc but no one seems to know what goes with and what to avoid when you do this etc.
For instance which garret turbo does what, with this trim spec, and or that manifold and weather or not to use twin pipe dump or just a single pipe dump with a 2 3/4 mandrel xforce system part No.
which size carby & model-brand or stick with oem to go with as a result of, or install gen efi with a particular piggy back computer & cam and a GT38-### turbo will achieve approx-------nm, and so on.
but to be blunt so far I have very little.
I'm dissapointed and frustrated as it seems no one is willing to pass on such advise.
I thought this sort of info would come in from all direction but in reality, didn't at all.

Well, l 'll stand by fingers crossed.
PS, Been watchin your build,and if I get time I'll try a decifer what you have now.
Cheers Bigrig

Bigrig
25th February 2012, 07:24 PM
Well Bigrig alls good.just tired of getting no where fast.
Yes I am thinking turbo cam etc but no one seems to know what goes with and what to avoid when you do this etc.
For instance which garret turbo does what, with this trim spec, and or that manifold and weather or not to use twin pipe dump or just a single pipe dump with a 2 3/4 mandrel xforce system part No.
which size carby & model-brand or stick with oem to go with as a result of, or install gen efi with a particular piggy back computer & cam and a GT38-### turbo will achieve approx-------nm, and so on.
but to be blunt so far I have very little.
I'm dissapointed and frustrated as it seems no one is willing to pass on such advise.
I thought this sort of info would come in from all direction but in reality, didn't at all.

Well, l 'll stand by fingers crossed.
PS, Been watchin your build,and if I get time I'll try a decifer what you have now.
Cheers Bigrig

I gave what I knew mate below - copied again here:

Garret imitation turbo (will get a ball bearing garret down the track)

Standard TD42 manifold

XR6 Turbo Intercooler - front mounted

3" dump pipe/2.75" exhaust mandrel bent no cat

Single dump pipe

Wolf V500 ECU

Bosch 660cc injectors (high performance and larger - have to be)

Wallbro high performance fuel pump

Wholesale Automatic stage II heavy duty valve body

If you're after something that will add some spice to the engine, that list is pretty much it, short of a boost controller .. you don't need the intercooler if only running 6 or 7 lbs of boost (which will still be more than noticeable) so the list would be:

1. Small turbo - either small Garrett or whatever, or like mine, a T3T4 imitation -$1200 approx for the whole kit

2. TD42 manifold - second hand, about $50 from a wrecker/eBay - not sure on new

3. Let's say a 3" dump pipe and exhaust in total - $1400 approx

4. Turbo smart manual boost controller - $80

5. Not sure you'd need bigger injectors for that boost, but if so, VDO injectors 660cc - $480

6. If getting number 5 above, then Wallbro High Performance Fuel Pump - $280

7. ECU upgrade of some description - either piggy back computer (about $400) or new ECU - Haltech, Wolf, EMS, etc range from $1600 to $2100

8. Installation - budget on around $3000 for the above without dyno ($500) and dependant on setup.

So less than $7000 with a piggy back ECU setup and less than $8100 with a new ECU complete. And that includes a full exhaust replacement, bigger injectors and fuel pump which you may not need. You could also add an intake temp sensor ($150-200 fitted), but again, not critical at that level of boost.

Standard figures are around 127kw and 340nm at the flywheel with the above setup probably taking you to something more like 150-160kw and over 400nm of torque - at least a 20-30% gain if not more (I'm being conservative - mine is only pulling 7.5lbs of boost and is doing a shed load more than that - BUT, I have intercooler, new ECU for proper mapping etc, etc)

The more berries wanted, the more money ... don't know if this is more what you were looking for, but even though there's a few old threads on the other forum, turbo'ing a petrol is not all that common, so not a lot of people would be able to weigh into the discussion.

Did you call Quickspool and talk to Will as I suggested when you first posted this up?? He's a top bloke and will certainly provide you ballpark specs and pricing over the phone - if you haven't, then how about giving that a shot rather than waiting and hoping for it on here from people who aren't specialised turbo mechanics/installers? It's a specialist job mate, and as such, you need to look further than the Internet and actually start contacting installers - that'll at least give you some indication of outputs and costs irrespective of what setup they use (i.e. knowing whether it's "one dump pipe or two" for example is irrelevant if the price and guaranteed performance gain is right).

Either way, sincerely hope you sort it and get what you're after, the 4.2 is a workhorse and pulls hard with a little bit of aftermarket 'persuasion'.

And engineering mod plate after it is all done costs bugger all, keeps it legal, and keeps your insurance happy also.

EDIT: just realised yours is carby - sorry. Not sure on a carb upgrade, but strike the ECU for the fuel unless you go efi - that'll keep the price down also. I'll leave this post up though for others reference.

Robo
26th February 2012, 01:57 PM
No I haven't rung anyone as yet, been trying to research all I can before I talk seriously to a shop.
I don't wade into any thing without knowing possible all I can before hand what I'm asking about first.
Found this has served me well over the years, can understand things better make more informed decisions.
And as you could appreciate less hassle in the long run.
As I read somewhere only today preparation, preparation,preparation is everything.

Bigrig
26th February 2012, 02:03 PM
As I read somewhere only today preparation, preparation,preparation is everything.

From what I recollect, that was quoted by a dead set genius of a bloke!!!! LMFAO

taslucas
26th February 2012, 02:21 PM
I agree with big (again! Lol). A forum is just a place where like minded people get together and chat about their interests and also try to help each other out. It's not a one-stop-shop for all the answers you need. To say your frustrated and disappointed that no one is willing to give you any help is a bit harsh mate! I think bigs last response has to be the most detailed I've seen on this forum and I'm sure he did a hell of a lot of research himself to be able to give you all that knowledge.
Talking to specialists in the field will get you what you need

Goodluck mate.

Lucas

MQ MAD
27th February 2012, 10:02 AM
First step i would do, without standing on anyones toes
Put the thing on a dyno and get a real world figure what it produces as it is now
Compare that to what the factory put out way back when
Sometimes, and sometimes doin mods on a tired engine can either be a step backwards , or with mods and engine age put out the same power as it done when new
Ive been playing with engines of various brands,makes,models and there is no magic mods that will produce that magic figure that suits everyone all the time
A race engine from an 11 sec drag car wont gaurantee that engine will do the same in every other car
Scotty has good resulkts from his TB, he is in a very small minority,theres not much on the subject either people want that info kept a secret, like say a shop who makes a livin from the secrets or
theres just not many doin it

You need a base line to start with , a dyno print out is that
You then need to after doin mods get another print out to ensure your goin forward

Robo
27th February 2012, 12:55 PM
I don't wade into any thing without knowing possible all I can before hand what I'm asking about first.
This vehicle is a primary source of transport for my Wife, Kids and G/Kids and simply can't be off the Rd for extended period other than initial fitting and tuning.
If I'm going to do any mods, they have to work first time, not spend the next 2 yrs trying this or that.
Hence the reason I'm being so persistent with this thread.
Thanks to all for input so far.

Leaning towards .

After market ecm.
Reco, balanced efi engine.
molly rings.
oil cooler.
lower comp.
larger injectors.
Performance fuel pump and reg.
tuned pipe header.
twin pipe dump for better flow and reduced lag.
Garrett turbo water and oil.
twin electronic turbo controller.
intercooler with recirculating pressure relief valve.
egt sensor and gauge.
Knock sensor monitor.
pcv catch can.
most pipe work and mods done at home.
head de-comp and both ports smoothed out.
engine and most pipe work done prior to fitting into car and up and running.

possibly install 2nd intake manifold tubes for LPG injection also as alternate fuel.
but this is in first stages of thought and planing.
these 2nd fuel rails are available for additional fuel performance applications.
but would have to be taken into consideration from the build starting point and ecm.
Will see.
but don't expect anything to soon.
as this is a long process to do it right first time as you can appreciate .
Cheers.

Bigrig
27th February 2012, 01:16 PM
I don't wade into any thing without knowing possible all I can before hand what I'm asking about first.
This vehicle is a primary source of transport for my Wife, Kids and G/Kids and simply can't be off the Rd for extended period other than initial fitting and tuning.
If I'm going to do any mods, they have to work first time, not spend the next 2 yrs trying this or that.
Hence the reason I'm being so persistent with this thread.
Thanks to all for input so far.

Leaning towards .

After market ecm.
Reco, balanced efi engine.
molly rings.
oil cooler.
lower comp.
larger injectors.
Performance fuel pump and reg.
tuned pipe header.
twin pipe dump for better flow and reduced lag.
Garrett turbo water and oil.
twin electronic turbo controller.
intercooler with recirculating pressure relief valve.
egt sensor and gauge.
Knock sensor monitor.
pcv catch can.
most pipe work and mods done at home.
head de-comp and both ports smoothed out.
engine and most pipe work done prior to fitting into car and up and running.

possibly install 2nd intake manifold tubes for LPG injection also as alternate fuel.
but this is in first stages of thought and planing.
these 2nd fuel rails are available for additional fuel performance applications.
but would have to be taken into consideration from the build starting point and ecm.
Will see.
but don't expect anything to soon.
as this is a long process to do it right first time as you can appreciate .
Cheers.

Good list mate, bit bloody expensive and I'd bet my left one the truck will be off the road longer than you anticipate even doing it yourself, so just keep that in mind to save further frustration (mine was out for 11 weeks in a period of 17 weeks!!). That equates to a lot of coin also, but choice is yours. I'm sure you've done your research but a quick ballpark below:

1. After market ECM - between $1600-$2100
2. Reco, balanced efi engine - $2000-3000 minimum for a rebuilt one (probably more like $4000)
3. molly rings - $??
4. oil cooler - $250
5. lower comp - machined head $1200 or decomp cylinders $2400
6. larger injectors - $480
7. Performance fuel pump and reg - $280 for pump and $? for regulator (don't know if you'll need it though depending on what ECU you get)
8. tuned pipe header - $500-600
9. twin pipe dump for better flow and reduced lag - $300
10. Garrett turbo water and oil (assuming you mean water and oil intercooled) - $1500-$1700
11. twin electronic turbo controller (why twin??) - $540
12. intercooler with recirculating pressure relief valve - $700
13. egt sensor and gauge - $150
14. Knock sensor monitor - $250
15. pcv catch can (second hand???) - <$100
16. most pipe work and mods done at home - fair enough if you know what you're doing
17. head de-comp and both ports smoothed out - as per point 5 above
18. engine and most pipe work done prior to fitting into car and up and running - if you can do most, not much in service costs, but maybe allow $700 for dyno

That is a big expensive list mate!!! $12,250 on the cheaper side of every point above and not including dyno. Will be following your build with great interest - please post updates as you go once you decide which way you're heading. By doing the work you've said yourself, you'll be saving at least $4-5000 in installation ... sincere best of luck with it.

Bound to be a bottler!!

Robo
27th February 2012, 02:44 PM
Yeah decent list that's why I suggest you don't hold ya breath.
All/most R and R and build by me.
Pipes intercooler alloy pre bent and tig and home.
turbo is both water and oil cartridge
intercooler proberly air only,
porting+ lower comp head work me.
rods, pistons balance me.
twin boost controller possibly of dual fuel and dual fuel maps.
Not patting myself on back, but this isn't my first time round in extensive engine mods done mostly from home.
will build another long engine on stand and swap out my self, with as much of the auxiliary work done prior to this as humanly possible to get it over ASAP.
I have a rather well tooled garage. over 25 yrs of building up tool supplies to do most of what I want, when I want.
mobile engine hoist, e-stand, trolley jacks.
large work bench strong enough to place complete engine on.
20t press,extensive air tools and hand tools.
stick, mig and tig. etc.
so if I decide to go ahead with this it will be a slow process done mostly by 1 guy in his spare time.
But will be planned to a T so all falls into place as it supposed to.
I've tried going down the path of paying someone to do the work I can do myself, and hate to say this but I've been left wondering more times than not, why did I waste my money, as usually been given something back not quoted on, work not to spec as discussed or simply damage my vehicle.
I've had spoilers smashed, sills damaged, $900 brand new engine pipe crushed ,even incorrect s-plugs installed physically very different not just a number & still swapped out, brand new air filters replaced, bolts left out of bell housing to block with e-swap.
This one tops em all ,after full reco engine was back in an running, was told by e-builder he doubled the clearance on piston and rings as advised by piston manufacturer.
And I had instructed him the build spec was for a tight engine for longer-term street use.
so I've had enough and do it myself mostly now.
Anyway think you get the point of my persistence and wanting to know all I can first.
it will be a while coming but when I start it will happen fast.
Cheers

Silver
27th February 2012, 02:46 PM
interesting torque and horsepower numbers for the various patrol engines on Wikipedia
http://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=nissan%20patrol%20y60%20torque%20and%20horsepowe r&source=web&cd=1&sqi=2&ved=0CDoQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FNissan_ TB_engine&ei=jwJLT4b3NKbymAWoy_n4DQ&usg=AFQjCNGH9nluPkT8c_yMHBvqGvgh4kA6GQ

Robo
27th February 2012, 02:56 PM
interesting torque and horsepower numbers for the various patrol engines on Wikipedia
http://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=nissan%20patrol%20y60%20torque%20and%20horsepowe r&source=web&cd=1&sqi=2&ved=0CDoQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FNissan_ TB_engine&ei=jwJLT4b3NKbymAWoy_n4DQ&usg=AFQjCNGH9nluPkT8c_yMHBvqGvgh4kA6GQ

Wt hell, 397 klm per hr in a swb!!.
Stig where are you, test drive this one round the track.

Ben-e-boy
27th February 2012, 04:08 PM
that kind of work will require you to lose the dual fuel. straight gas or straight petrol

Robo
28th February 2012, 12:05 PM
no computer out there to run dual fuel maps?

Ben-e-boy
28th February 2012, 04:19 PM
no computer out there to run dual fuel maps?

dunno about the computer but trying to tune both fuels is very difficult

97_gq_lwb
28th February 2012, 04:28 PM
The factory tb42e computer can run more maps easily if you want to just fit a larger eprom like a 27c512 or (27sf512 electronic erase)stack two bin files and switch memory addresses

Robo
29th February 2012, 02:36 AM
The factory tb42e computer can run more maps easily if you want to just fit a larger eprom like a 27c512 or (27sf512 electronic erase)stack two bin files and switch memory addresses

Now I think about it I know of someone who's supposed to be the ants pants with ecm, will have to try and contact him if possible.
and get something as you mention together before hand to drop in when ready to tune, sounds good.
another one for the list.
thanks for reminding me I know of someone in the know.
cheers

MudSlut
4th March 2012, 04:58 PM
drop the RB26 out of your GTR into your patrol, it will go then!!

Robo
4th March 2012, 05:58 PM
Yep above 3k rpm any way.
Not very cost effective unfortunately motor worth 4x more than I paid for Mav in the first place.
and this is still considered fairly stock.
wonder what the ancillaries would do to the 4.2 if transfered over ! .
running 700cc injectors on rb26 now.
"don't get me going".
what iifff !.

Robo
16th March 2012, 02:26 PM
dunno about the computer but trying to tune both fuels is very difficult

that's the idea of dual maps.
about the only thing to compensate for.
plug gap and timing.
but this is normal stuff and acceptable.