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View Full Version : Black oil after 800k, hard starting when hot. Zd30



Macka gu 2009
8th January 2012, 02:55 PM
My newly brought GU Dx 3.0 ute had oil and filter changed while I got new tyres fitted. I saw them do it and then I drove 800k on high way to Brisbane. Just checking it routinely and find it totally black, and a bit over full. Ute has had a hard 88k traveled but serviced by the same people each 5k. Cold starting is ok if a 5 second crank after glow lamp goes out. But if the engine is at running temp then it takes 40 secs of winding. When it does fire it does not blow huge smoke. Highway performance is adequate I think, but not able to compare with anything though. On road at 100 kmh in top it will suddenly loose 20% and if throttled off then on it seems to correct this itself for a while. Should it go straight to the dealer? Would a 5-09 with 88k have warranty left on a drive line? I think so but the chassis needs a clean up which i am doing now. Any advice on this is appreciated.

growler2058
8th January 2012, 03:51 PM
My td42 will have black oil after an oil and filter change just driving to the shops and back. I thought it was a diesel thing. Can't help with your other queries tho, sorry

Maxhead
8th January 2012, 03:57 PM
In my 08 CRD the oil is black as soon as I put the sump plug back on....LOLOL.

Your're still under warranty(as long as the vehicle been serviced regularly and book stamped), so clean it up and take it in and get it sorted.

guterra
8th January 2012, 08:02 PM
I read "800k" & "ZD30" in the title and thought, Damn! At last we have a long life 3 litre..... oh well.

Mine usually takes about 5000kms to start the blackishness. - egr blocked but! before it was about a 1000kms. So it seems normal in my opinion if the egg isn't blocked off

Macka gu 2009
8th January 2012, 08:28 PM
I read "800k" & "ZD30" in the title and thought, Damn! At last we have a long life 3 litre..... oh well.

Mine usually takes about 5000kms to start the blackishness. - egr blocked but! before it was about a 1000kms. So it seems normal in my opinion if the egg isn't blocked off


Sorry, should read my own text better...800km. This seems very few k for black oil but the egr must account for this. Any previous diesels i had years ago and my current mower take a long time to blacken. Will keep a thread going on this as I want to go thru the dealer ASAP . I need to build a basic steel tray first....

guterra
8th January 2012, 08:44 PM
Yeah I knew what you meant. I was just havin a bit of fun with some ambitious thinking of a zd30 that has done 800 thou kms. Its all good. Hope mine does that many before she packs it in. And welcome to the forums too!

Cheers

boots
8th January 2012, 10:24 PM
Has the MAF sensor ever been looked at or cleaned ? If or when its out stick your fingers in the intake pipe and smear around to see if youve got blowbuy issues / oil residue . could be time for a catch can ? Also what oil you running in it ? 3 litre zd30 ,s are fussy about oil .

Wine_maker
9th January 2012, 07:16 PM
My oil goes absolutely black, after 4 km from oil change station to garage.

WhiteGU
9th January 2012, 07:19 PM
Sounds like the MAF is dirty and/or faulty. This will cause your limp mode issue while cruising at 100k.

Filthy oil after 800k could be EGR stuck open. A ZD30 should never be overfilled, as it will contribute to MAF oiling up.

Your vehicle is still under factory warranty, so take it in and get it checked out.

If it were mine, I would give the engine a flush with CEM flushing oil. That will stop the new oil getting so filthy so quickly, and then block the EGR to keep the dirty exhaust out of your engine, and stop the creation of gooey crud inside your head. Add a Provent catch can to keep the oily fumes out of your inlet tract - keeps your MAF healthy and also stops oil buildup in the intercooler and the head.

the ferret
9th January 2012, 08:22 PM
Sounds like the MAF is dirty and/or faulty. This will cause your limp mode issue while cruising at 100k.

Filthy oil after 800k could be EGR stuck open. A ZD30 should never be overfilled, as it will contribute to MAF oiling up.

Your vehicle is still under factory warranty, so take it in and get it checked out.

If it were mine, I would give the engine a flush with CEM flushing oil. That will stop the new oil getting so filthy so quickly, and then block the EGR to keep the dirty exhaust out of your engine, and stop the creation of gooey crud inside your head. Add a Provent catch can to keep the oily fumes out of your inlet tract - keeps your MAF healthy and also stops oil buildup in the intercooler and the head.

Couldn't have said it better myself, onya WhiteGU.
Cheers, the ferret.

Macka gu 2009
11th January 2012, 11:06 AM
I am expecting a disc full of manuals shortly which will help identify these parts needing checking. The oil came from a general drum at the tyre/mechanical center. I asked if it was correct for this application but I will get it to a dealer shortly for a full and proper service. That is after I get it started. My previous complaint of poor hot start is now universal hot or cold.... I rang the previous servicing workshop about missing stamped pages from the service book and they confirmed that all required services as per the book including the severe operation extras had been done and during it's life of 2.5 years has had new clutch, clutch master cylinder, a/c compressor, alternator, steering dampener, brake pads and rear uni joint most of this at 70k service. Once starting and maf..eger..oil issues are sorted it will be a good vehicle..

stock patrol
18th January 2012, 01:52 PM
I am expecting a disc full of manuals shortly which will help identify these parts needing checking. The oil came from a general drum at the tyre/mechanical center. I asked if it was correct for this application but I will get it to a dealer shortly for a full and proper service. That is after I get it started. My previous complaint of poor hot start is now universal hot or cold.... I rang the previous servicing workshop about missing stamped pages from the service book and they confirmed that all required services as per the book including the severe operation extras had been done and during it's life of 2.5 years has had new clutch, clutch master cylinder, a/c compressor, alternator, steering dampener, brake pads and rear uni joint most of this at 70k service. Once starting and maf..eger..oil issues are sorted it will be a good vehicle..

at 2.5 yr and had all those replacements done I'd be thinking it's had a hard life. oil out of a general drum wouldn't be too good for it either. I stopped taking my 3.0l to nissan at about 80,000 k when I felt they weren't doing the service quoted. only changed alternater and steering dampener when putting suspension upgrade in