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ozzyboy
13th December 2011, 02:32 PM
heyas

I got the verdict yesterday that the thrust bearing is almost shot, need to replace over the next month or so.
At the same time, will replace the clutch ( or atleast have a crack at it myself ) :)

My question is, i have heard the rear main seal can be replaced whilst the box is out.
Is this true, and is there much too it, or best left to a mechanic?
As far as i know, there is nothing wrong with the seal, but i'm thinking best to replace if i got access.
Oh and if it differs, it is a 4.2 petrol / gas efi gq

cheers

ozz

Woof
13th December 2011, 02:38 PM
Hey mate I just got my Q back from the mechanics today, new heavy duty clutch and rear main engine seal replaced $1,757.49

Silver
13th December 2011, 02:54 PM
consider replacing the input shaft seal on the gearbox at the same time - if it can be replaced without dismantling the box now is the time to do it, esp as it will be pushed and pulled in strange directions while mating up the box/bell housing to the block.

AB
13th December 2011, 04:14 PM
Hey mate I just got my Q back from the mechanics today, new heavy duty clutch and rear main engine seal replaced $1,757.49

Oh god....The misses is going to kill me when I mention how much money I need to fix this clutch...lol

ozzyboy
13th December 2011, 05:13 PM
i got quoted 1100 for an exedy hd clutch fitted.
1100 takes away from mods so i wanna try myself :)

Bigrig
13th December 2011, 05:39 PM
i got quoted 1100 for an exedy hd clutch fitted.
1100 takes away from mods so i wanna try myself :)

Want some help?? Sounds like a working bee on your rig to me!!! lol

Happy to assist - even if that means having a beer and pointing at stuff!!

rottodiver
13th December 2011, 08:13 PM
it aint too bad a job to do it yourself.... just everything is so heavy..... nothing two trolley jacks wont fix, a little fidly putting the box back in, i pulled the transfer case and gear box out as one!!!! i believe some people do split them...... also make sure you get the flywheel machined!!!!!

Scotty

ozzyboy
14th December 2011, 04:56 AM
hmm ok.
so looking at the above, i have gone from replacing thrust bearing to
thrust bearring
clutch
flywheel machined
rear main seal and
input shaft seal ........

don't plan on driving home bigrig, thats a lot of beers and pointing at stuff :P

ozzy

rottodiver
14th December 2011, 08:21 AM
hmm ok.
so looking at the above, i have gone from replacing thrust bearing to
thrust bearring
clutch
flywheel machined
rear main seal and
input shaft seal ........

don't plan on driving home bigrig, thats a lot of beers and pointing at stuff :P

ozzy

isn't this the typical life of a 4wd owner

Scotty

Silver
14th December 2011, 09:40 AM
Bob over the Road - as in Doreen and Bob who some met at LCMP gave me a good tip years ago when I replaced the clutch in my MQ.

The tip was to get some longer bolts with the same thread as the bell housing bolts, cut the head off, and cut a screw driver slot.

One can be screwed in on either side of the block, and can be used to guide the bell housing and block into alignment

albi
23rd December 2011, 10:39 PM
mate you need to pull the flywhell of to get it machined anyway,so doing the rear main while the flywheel is off is a no-brainer,for the cost of the seal ,it is cheap insurance!

ozzyboy
23rd December 2011, 10:44 PM
job done. flywheel machined, new hd exedy and rear main done :)
I am holding the thrust bearring in my hand here, what exactly am i looking for to know it was stuffed?
If i place 2 fingers in the inner diameter, the outside of the bearring spins freely. is this bad??

ozz

ozzyboy
23rd December 2011, 10:44 PM
double post :(

Silver
24th December 2011, 01:11 AM
job done. flywheel machined, new hd exedy and rear main done :)
I am holding the thrust bearring in my hand here, what exactly am i looking for to know it was stuffed?
If i place 2 fingers in the inner diameter, the outside of the bearring spins freely. is this bad??

ozz

What is bad is that the bearing is cheap, and are there 7 hours labour to remove and replace the gearbox, clutch and then the bearing? Replace it.

Replace the spigot bush or bearing, if there is one, where the gearbox shaft goes into the fly wheel. Replace the front seal in the gear box, if it can be done without pulling the gear box apart.

Consider replacing the yoke and the pin it pivots on.

Well, that's my view, anyway :-)

ozzyboy
24th December 2011, 01:54 AM
here is a vid of the old thrust bearring. The noise from the gearbox is definantly gone and i'm almost 100% bearring was the cause. i just don't know what is wrong with the bearring.

http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo166/ozzyboy2000/th_bearring.jpg (http://s372.photobucket.com/albums/oo166/ozzyboy2000/?action=view&current=bearring.mp4)

rottodiver
24th December 2011, 11:21 AM
i am definately no expert but i do believe that even if the bearing spins freely in your hand it is different to how it spins when under load!!!

someone might want to clarify that!!!

Scotty
merry xmas

patch697
24th December 2011, 11:27 AM
i am definately no expert but i do believe that even if the bearing spins freely in your hand it is different to how it spins when under load!!!

someone might want to clarify that!!!

Scotty
merry xmas

Correct your are mate, thats pretty smack on.