View Full Version : SD33 sounds diferent now that I started it again.....
ipatrol26
27th November 2011, 09:19 AM
Hello all you guys and girls out there, as some of you might know I am doing an GQ convertion from TD42 to SD33 for reasons that I canīt explain right now because it will take the whole page. when I first bought the SD33 sound it very good just like it suppose to sound after that I didnīt started it for almost three months but today that I bought a new battery and started it sounds very different, sounds like a V8 engine and thatīs not all but was weird is that is a lot accelerated than before as I would had my foot al the way down on the pedal when it starts and when I give it gas it accelerates more than usual.
Ever since I last started it I havenīt done anything to the engine EXCEPT I took out the throttle body cleaned it and when I bolted it back I bolted it facing forward instead of facing sideways like it was before and I did that so I can have more access to the throttle cable but I am wondering if thatīs whats causing the this issue now ????????????
HELP PLEASE.
YNOT
27th November 2011, 09:31 AM
When you say it sounds like a V8 is it running rough or miss firing? Is it blowing any smoke?
Are you able to post up a photo of the throttle body, I'm not sure what you mean there?
Tony
ipatrol26
27th November 2011, 10:02 AM
Well is not miss firing, maybe a little bit rough but nothing serious, there is tons of smoke coming out maybe because I only have the manifold instead of the complete exhaust system. at first it started and died all of the sudden but I think it was because there still a lot of air in the fuel lines after being sitting down but after a few attempts it started and remain running like normal.
Here is a picture, inside the square is the "throttle body that I mentioned" I donīt know if you called it the same or different: the light green arrow shows the original way that the throttle was facing meaning that when you step on the gas the cable is pulled from side to side to open the air valve inside the throttle and that way it accelerates but for me to have more access to the gas pedal cable I though of putting it facing forward which it means when you step on he gas pedal the cables pulls from forward to rear opening the valve inside the throttle so I donīt know if thatīs whats causing the differences and sounds more accelerated. ""the dark green arrow outside the square shows the direction that the throttle body was moved""
Help please
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10291
YNOT
27th November 2011, 10:10 AM
The throttle cable should be attached to the injector pump, diesels are not throttled by controlling air flow.
Tony
ipatrol26
27th November 2011, 10:17 AM
Well my friend if thatīs true than I have a lot of problems because thatīs how it was when I bought it and besides the diesel injection pump only has a a controller lever that has 3 positions: 1. for starting position 2. for when its on normal drive and 3. its pulled backwards for the engine to shut down and thatīs all controlled by a little electric motor thatīs attached to a module case thatīs controlled when you turn the key either on or off so it doesnīt accelerates like that on my SD33 it actually accelerates when you pull on the gas cable.
the ferret
27th November 2011, 11:30 AM
Hey Ipatrol, The mechanism on the injector pump is called the EDIC motor control.
This opens the rack for starting (forward) run (middle) stop (right back)
The throttle cable on the sd33 na goes to the throttle body and Idle adjustment is made at the screw on the throttle body.
Put the throttle body back around the right way and see if that is the problem, make sure you have all vacuum lines hooked up.
If you don't have the exhaust system set up, it will bark and sound noisy.
The vacuum comes from the alternator.
Cheers, the ferret..
ipatrol26
27th November 2011, 11:39 AM
Exactly my friend thatīs what I am talking about, I think thatīs the issue. maybe the throttle body it suppose to go that way so it can let the right amount of air in and by altering that more air is forced inside and even more when the valve is open making it sound accelerated and even more when I step on the gas.
thanks man.
ipatrol26
27th November 2011, 11:42 AM
Now you mention that ""The vacuum comes from the alternator"" I though it was from the brake booster to the alternator vacuum pump or does it goes to the throttle body too????
thanks again.
the ferret
27th November 2011, 11:53 AM
Now you mention that ""The vacuum comes from the alternator"" I though it was from the brake booster to the alternator vacuum pump or does it goes to the throttle body too????
thanks again.
The vacuum comes from the throttle body to the rear of the injector pump, (not shown in pic)
This is in a boat, but it's original set up.
http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/tt164/ferret/004-1.jpg
the ferret
27th November 2011, 12:22 PM
Now you mention that ""The vacuum comes from the alternator"" I though it was from the brake booster to the alternator vacuum pump or does it goes to the throttle body too????
thanks again.
There is a banjo fitting on the side of the throttle body, a steel tube goes from there, around the back of the head and fits onto the pneumatic governor control.
If this line is missing, your engine will not perform.
Cheers, the ferret.
ipatrol26
27th November 2011, 12:22 PM
Got it buddy, thanks. now thereīre two nips on the rear of the injection pump one that goes to the throttle body it self and the other one to the air filter box right ???? and if so which ones goes where.
what I am trying to say is that there is one nip on the very rear of the injection pump if we look at it from the back of the engine to the front and the other nip follows this one, can you tell me which one goes where please if you donīt mind???????
ipatrol26
27th November 2011, 12:30 PM
Now thinking it over thatīs why it sound it different and accelerated. I didnīt had does hose connected to the throttle body and besides the throttle body was bolted different than original.
the ferret
27th November 2011, 01:18 PM
Here ya go mate.
http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/tt164/ferret/006-2.jpg
http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/tt164/ferret/005-1.jpg
http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/tt164/ferret/007-1.jpg
I can't see a problem with turning the throttle body around, provided you are able to re connect the hoses, you may need to use flexible VACUUM hose.
Cheers, the ferret.
Yendor
27th November 2011, 01:32 PM
I don't think rotating the throttle body 90 degrees on the manifold will cause you any problems.
Are there any air leaks between the throttle body and manifold?
When you cleaned the throttle body did you remove the butterfly valve? if so is it binding now?
I think the Ferret is on the money with the vacuum side.
ipatrol26
27th November 2011, 11:57 PM
I did remove the butterfly valve but I put it back right back where it was and its doing what is suppose to do just fine I beleive, now I could be wrong though.
Please explain.
ipatrol26
28th November 2011, 12:01 AM
Thank you very much mate, that's a whole of a lot of help you gave me, now I know why it sounded diferent, because them hose weren't connected. Thanks again, now outside of this issue just your opinion: You think an SD33 with original transmission (5speed) will work just fine into a 1992 GQ ????????
Thoughts please.
the ferret
28th November 2011, 12:15 AM
Yep, it will be fine, after all it's the same body shape as an MQ.
The tunnel for the rear drive shaft is in the wrong place, you may need to lift the body with spacers.
Your only issue will be the drive shafts, the rear one will not be straight and the front one may hit the gearbox or engine.
You may need an MQ front axle but, MQ are leaf springs and GQ are coil springs.
These things can all be done if you have the time and a bit of know how and can weld.
ipatrol26
28th November 2011, 01:24 AM
Well the front axles is not a problem at all, I've already connected the front shaft to the diff and bolts right in with prenty space to move without hitting anything on its way. My only concern (not problem) is as you mention the rear drive shaft, and the only things is that it will be off set a bit. At first I though it was going to be offset and wasn't going to work but after I put in the transmission and connected the rear drive shaft its actually not that bad at all and it might just work even better with a double cardan joint, maybe a little off set but nothing really serious and besides its less of an angle than when you use a lift kit and the drive shaft drops down into the rear diff.
You're right I did had to lift the body up with "2 blocks so I could fit the transmission into place but nothing serious.
Yendor
28th November 2011, 09:01 AM
I have seen a butterfly valve that was removed for cleaning reinstalled the wrong way around and was fouling on the throttle body housing.
This prevented the valve from fully closing.
This was not on a SD33 engine throttle body and I am not sure if it is even possible to fit these ones incorrectly, I just thought it was worth checking.
the ferret
28th November 2011, 10:54 AM
Just remember that the EDIC motor is 24v, or you can set up a manual cable.
For easy starting :
1 push the lever forward then back to centre, glow for ten secs, then start.
2 to stop, pull the lever back.
Note, don't try and start with lever forward.
Cheers, the ferret.
ipatrol26
28th November 2011, 11:12 AM
Donīt worry mate my engine is 12V, thank you very much for all your help guys. now there is one more thing I would like to point. Iīve heard of other guys talking about cleaning the banjo bolt with the mesh inside for better results, now I donīt know if this is on SD33 engines or not but if it is where exactly is it and I mean exactly.
Thank you.
And thanks again for all your help guys.
the ferret
28th November 2011, 12:00 PM
On the SD33, the filter is inside the banjo at the BASE of the fuel priming pump.
Cheers, the ferret.
ipatrol26
28th November 2011, 12:10 PM
thank you.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.2 Copyright © 2025 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.