Classic Questions on Temperature

[Ade]

Gday all..

I need opinions and your thoughts on this one..

I've just installed stage 1 valve body from wholesale to my auto box and yes it made lots of difference to the box as what Rodney claims, very firm shifting, almost non slipping/flaring and good engine braking. And I've tested the Safari for a long up hill run (no extra load) couple of days ago and the overall result is..I was able to reached 80km/h speed (315/16 M/T) on that same up hill road where I was only be able to do 65km/h (33x15 M/T) with the old valve body.

With that 80km/h speed on that up hill road, my temperature readings are:
1. Engine oil in the oil pan: 85c
2. Coolant in the thermostat housing: 110c
3. ATF in the outlet to the cooler: 140c

* These are readings from Autometer gauges so they are reliable. I've also installed extra atf cooler that run in series with the factory cooler.
**I don't know what is my egt atm as I don't have pyro installed just yet. But my resent fuel consumption is 5.5km/l compared to 4.5km/l before couple of tweak up and down to the fuel pump and boost (12psi). No black smoke from the tail pipe.
***Top mount turbo, 3''dump straight through to the tail pipe and no intercooler.

So, does those temperatures are normal or are there any possibilities that they can be improve?

I am also wondering, will replacing my 20 years old factory radiator core (roded) to 3 layer core and not using the factory atf cooler inside the radiator makes any difference to the coolant temp, and will that big air to air after market atf cooler alone dissipate enough atf heat from the box.

Cheers,

Ade

[Silver]

G'day,

did the google thing, came up with this info from rosscommonequipmentcentre.com which deals specifically with Ford F series forest fire trucks in the US. Note the temps are Farenheit, not Centigrade

Automatic Transmission Fluid Temperature
Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) has a life of about
100,000 miles at 175oF. At high temperatures, it oxidizes,
turns from red to brown and exhibits a burnt smell. In
addition to reducing the oil’s lubricating quality, high
temperature produces a varnish on internal parts
interfering with the operation of the transmission. Above
250oF., rubber seals harden, leading to pressure loss and
leaks. Also, the transmission can slip. In the worst cases,
clutches fail and costly repairs result.
ATF manufacturers suggest that for every 20oF. increase
in operating temperature above 175oF., the life of the fluid
is cut in half. Hence at 195oF., oil life will be about 50,000
miles. Above 240oF., it becomes nil. Without adequate
cooling, the heavy duty use of wildland fire engines will
likely push the ATF operating temperature very high.

250F = 121.1111C. you are reading a lot more than that. Now, this is just stuff off the net, and I don't know from personal experience if it is correct

[T0nka]

I get 98c temps going up hills (coolant) and i chit myself thinking its too high, your getting 110c?

mine must be fine then, well i hope so anyway.

Anyone got specs on max temps etc?

[Ade]

Cheers guys,

These are also from the net..

OIL TEMPERATURE MEASURED AT CONVERTER OUTLET TO COOLER:

300° F. The maximum allowable temperature. This is the recommended place to install a temperature gauge or sensor. Do not allow the converter outlet temperature to exceed 300° F. The temperature at this location will vary significantly because of load, hill climbing, etceteras. If the temperature reaches 300° F, reduce throttle. To lower transmission temperature with transmission in neutral, run the engine at 1,200 RPM for at least 2 - 3 minutes while keeping a close check for signs of engine overheating. A transmission in a heavy throttle, stall condition (a typical situation is rocking a vehicle stuck in mud, sand, or snow), may increase temperature at a rate of 1° degree per second of stall.

OIL TEMPERATURE MEASURED AT OIL PAN OR SUMP:

150° F. The minimum operating temperature. Note: It is possible in low ambient temperatures to overcool the transmission with auxiliary oil to air coolers. Oil to water coolers in standard factory radiators will normally not overcool a transmission.

175-200° F. Normal pan oil temperature operating range.

275° F. Maximum allowable oil pan temperature for short durations during long hill climbs.

300° F. Damage occurs to internal transmission parts, including warpage of metal parts, degradation of clutches, and melting of seals. Transmission oil oxidizes, (forming varnish-like substances causing further clutch slippage and compounding heat build up) and transmission oil life is extremely short.

Rodney from wholesale also agreed with these limits and so with the manual. So I'll stick to these as I my guide. But I wouldn't be always driving the troll to these limits and I want to improve them..

As for the coolant, maximum temperature is 118c as long as the cooling system is in its top condition. It might be able to increase the max temp by replacing the radiator cap to a higher pressure rating but the plumbing might wouldn't hold the pressure. My coolant inside the over flow tank didn't boiled at 115c, I've tested this. But I've seen mate's LC with standard L3 engine boiled his coolant at little less from 100c due to faulty rad cap.

Around town or on flat road my max reading on atf is 105c, coolant and engine oil is 85c a. These are max with flat foot on the throttle. They also came down from those max figure very quickly as soon as I hit a little less steeper road.

Ade

[Ade]

I am sure 3 core replacement will improve the cooling capacity to some point, but the qustion is to what point? Would it be able to reduce my max coolant 110c temperature to below 100c? Anyone with the experince?

[Ade]

I am quite satisfied with the atf temperature atm as I was driving it on a long steep hill climb with D range, the Power button is in off position and flat foot on the throttle.