Oil leak from turbo oil feed flange on turbo

[AB]

Hi folks,

I just changed the fuel filter and noticed a very slight oil leak from the turbo oil feed flange that bolts on to the turbo.

The leak is minimal. Stain runs down the oil return pipe but I park the car in the same spot every day and it has spent hours idling in the same spot and there is no traces of oil on the ground.

Ever since I installed the turbo I have not seen any noticable oil loss either.

Now, two reasons why I think It's leaking...

1) I had to reverse the flange for my set up so I can feed oil from the oil sensor on the other side of the block.

2) When I was tightening that bolt in the foreground I do remember it slightly going loose for a bit then tight right near the end and I am thinking I might have snapped the thread which is just fantastic!!!

Question's I have is should I fix this. I really don't want to take the turbo out but I guess I can take the bolt out and see if it is snapped. I'm worried that if I take it out and it is snapped then it won't tighten back up again and I'll have to fix it...lol

Any suggestions or ideas?

I could possibly take it out and get some easy out to remove the snapped bolt but I'll have to make sure I have everything ready before I do it or be prepared for the vehicle to be off the road for a week or so until I get the easy out bits and new bolt, etc.

Cheers for any help!

[Sir Roofy]

if its not loose and your not real concerned
keep an eye on it in the mean time get another bolt
and t up an easy out then do it if you think its getting
worse

[AB]

I just took it off. Bolts are fine, it's the bloody threads inside the turbo that are spinning.

Now they are both doing it. I just degreased everything and applied loctite on both sides of gaskets and on bolts.

Both bolts were spinning and I just swore my a$$ off at it and then suddenly the both locked up...lol

It's only just on and it's a hard spot to work with but I'll leave it for today and try it out tomorrow.

[AB]

I shouldn't have touched it....lol

[Maxhead]

Just like the rest, upgrade it to a GU one!! lololo....ohhh wait it already is

[AB]

Just like the rest, upgrade it to a GU one!! lololo....ohhh wait it already is

That's the problem mate. Bloody GU parts, falling to bits...LMAO

[Maxhead]

I reckon it's the bloke who put it in otherwise it would last a lifetime...LOL

[AB]

What a disaster of an afternoon!!!!!!!

Started the car with high expectations of the oil leak fixed and it pissed out oil from the problem bolt on the turbo oil feed flange.

I took the flange off and as I removed the problem bolt I noticed a small tiny bit of shard from the thread in the turbo housing drop into the bolt hole...You beauty!

After a better examination I now realise that some idiot (me) has stripped the thread inside the turbo for the oil feed bolt (2 bolt flange).

Now, because I removed it and reinstalled it, the oil feed thread is absolutely knackered and the car is not going anywhere! I must have tightened it a little bit too much and stripped the thread inside the turbo. This was the very last thing I installed back when doing the turbo and I remember being excited to hear it going and obviously got carried away too much....GRRR!!!!

I am happy to hear any suggestions on how to fix this????

My decision so far is to have a chat at Eastern Turbo's near my work for advice.

The worst part is that I have to now remove the entire turbo and this will be a nightmare as I installed this turbo to never be removed again...lol

All I can think of now is "maybe" they can tap out the thread to a larger bolt and drill the flange out slightly bigger too?

I know this is a tricky one but happy to hear any suggestions on this one.

I noticed on the Safari turbos (mine is standard HT-18 GU) the oil feed line goes straight into the hole like a hose with braided line ( not a flange style). Unfortunately the standard gu turbo (HT-18) doesn't have thread in the hole so is it also possible they could thread the hole maybe?

Then you'll need to block the bolt holes off etc...lol....NOT A HAPPY CAMPER TONIGHT!!!

here's some photos of my problem for laughs anyway...lol...You can see the thread stripped at the top.

[MudRunnerTD]

Ok I'll laugh cause you told me too....

Damn! I was all ready to give you a left field answer and then it went all bloody pear shape on ya Andy.

You know that it has to come off bud, no good news. Drill it out and install a helicoil would be the best I can think.

I'd give you a link but I'm on my iPhone. Good luck mate... That's farrked!

[AB]

Thanks Dazz, I just phoned someone on the forum and they said the same thing so Heli coil was the advice given too.

I'll start googling...lol

Part of me says why did you touch it, the other half says sucked in now get the job done properly with no leaks...lol

[Ade]

Get it done properly this time around mate..haha. What a bummer ey

[AB]

Get it done properly this time around mate..haha. What a bummer ey

Yeah no good driving around with oil leaks either Ade. It could of popped off in the middle of nowhere too which would be fun!!!

[Ade]

Yup..helicoil is the best way I can think too

[AB]

I had a brain wave at 3am this morning...lol.

Why do I need to take the turbo off...LMAO....I'm trying hard to get out of this one!

Hear me out though...

The turbo sits pretty high up, the oil feed is on top of the turbo and the hole that needs to be tapped is perfectly flat even and clear vertical access for drills and tools.

What if I find a mobile helicoil guy to come out, do his business, I then disconnect the oil drain which is on the bottom and flush the oil and shards out with carbi cleaner which will drain out the oil drain hole????

The turbo is locked in like a vice so It's perfect to drill...

Tony, Dazz, anyone??? Have a sold anyone on this idea???.....Wake up guys...LMAO

Look at the picture below, look at the easy access, look how flat it is...lol

[AB]

There's a guy in Melbourne called The Thread Doctor who apparently specialises in Mobile Helicoils and is especially good with helicoiling vehicles, spark plugs, etc...

I might see what he says....

[Maxhead]

I had a brain wave at 3am this morning...lol.

Why do I need to take the turbo off...LMAO....I'm trying hard to get out of this one!

Hear me out though...

The turbo sits pretty high up, the oil feed is on top of the turbo and the hole that needs to be tapped is perfectly flat even and clear vertical access for drills and tools.

What if I find a mobile helicoil guy to come out, do his business, I then disconnect the oil drain which is on the bottom and flush the oil and shards out with carbi cleaner which will drain out the oil drain hole????

The turbo is locked in like a vice so It's perfect to drill...

Tony, Dazz, anyone??? Have a sold anyone on this idea???.....Wake up guys...LMAO

Look at the picture below, look at the easy access, look how flat it is...lol

Should have got up and done the job mate....would have been done by now...LOLO

[YNOT]

It's worth a try.
Might be a good idea to take the oil drain off before trying to repair the thread.

Tony

[AB]

It's worth a try.
Might be a good idea to take the oil drain off before trying to repair the thread.

Tony

Yes for sure, I will do that. Thanks Tony.

I'll give him a buzz and see what he says...

[MudRunnerTD]

There's a guy in Melbourne called The Thread Doctor who apparently specialises in Mobile Helicoils and is especially good with helicoiling vehicles, spark plugs, etc...

I might see what he says....

That's a winner AB, depending on his cost it will be clean, tidy, straight! and efficient. Get it done

[AB]

Just heard the best news all year today!!!

I was concerned about the shards going into the turbo after drilling and helicoiling, etc.

I just got off the phone to Eastern Turbo who have confirmed that the threaded holes in the oil feed for the flange to sit on do not go right through into the turbo so just tape over the main oil hole and there will be no metal fragments entering the turbo.....RIPPER!!!!

The guy said I should just heli coil it myself to save money but I have never done one before so not sure if that would be a good idea or not...lol

[Maxhead]

Just heard the best news all year today!!!

I was concerned about the shards going into the turbo after drilling and helicoiling, etc.

I just got off the phone to Eastern Turbo who have confirmed that the threaded holes in the oil feed for the flange to sit on do not go right through into the turbo so just tape over the main oil hole and there will be no metal fragments entering the turbo.....RIPPER!!!!

The guy said I should just heli coil it myself to save money but I have never done one before so not sure if that would be a good idea or not...lol

Good news mate, should be fixed by the morning then :) ...LOLO

[MudRunnerTD]

Just heard the best news all year today!!!

I was concerned about the shards going into the turbo after drilling and helicoiling, etc.

I just got off the phone to Eastern Turbo who have confirmed that the threaded holes in the oil feed for the flange to sit on do not go right through into the turbo so just tape over the main oil hole and there will be no metal fragments entering the turbo.....RIPPER!!!!

The guy said I should just heli coil it myself to save money but I have never done one before so not sure if that would be a good idea or not...lol

If that is the case Andy then go for it mate, when you buy a Helicoil you may buy one in a kit with the right thread tap to go with it. Really simple to do especially if there is no risk to your turbo. Get it done mate.

You should be able to buy something like this from your local bolt bloke

Helicoil Kit (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HELICOIL-TYPE-THREAD-REPAIR-KIT-M6-x-1-00mm-/400232410143?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item5d2fb5ec1f#ht_2860wt_808)

expect it to cost you a fair bit more than that though!

Good news mate.

[Sir Roofy]

Stop,think and do ,you,l be right mate if you can do nutserts you can
do helicoil

[YNOT]

Christmas present idea/suggestion for Mrs AB.....................

Tony

[AB]

Christmas present idea/suggestion for Mrs AB.....................

Tony

I could make a comment right now about that but It's a family forum....lol

[AB]

Alright, I managed to get my hands on a helicoil kit so Rossco and I are going to give it a whirl...lol

I think it's an M8 thread....This is a wild out there question but can anyone confirm this...LMAO???

The guy who we're borrowing it off only has m6 coils but I'll just get another coil.

I'll do a DIY thread for us too which will hopefully help others.

[YNOT]

You need to be sure what the bolt diameter and pitch is (I don't know what the bolt dimensions are), don't guess and stuff up the turbo............or is that your secret plan "Honey, the turbo's completely stuffed so I have to buy a new one, and they only make upgraded turbos for these now"!

Tony

[AB]

You need to be sure what the bolt diameter and pitch is (I don't know what the bolt dimensions are), don't guess and stuff up the turbo............or is that your secret plan "Honey, the turbo's completely stuffed so I have to buy a new one, and they only make upgraded turbos for these now"!

Tony

Don't tempt me mate...lol

I'll take the bolt into work tomorrow and take it to a bolt place for confirmation, thanks for the tip Tony!

[Silver]

I learned to use a helicoil while installing the exhaust manifold in the L28 motor in our mighty MQ, predecessor to Silver.

I'm a pen pusher, but it was easy enough. It was an 8mm x 1.25 Andy - if that is the si2e you require, let me know and I'll post the kit. I even know exactly where it is!!

[AB]

Thanks Rick I appreciate your help mate. I'll get bolt confirmed just to be sure.

[Silver]

Alright, I managed to get my hands on a helicoil kit so Rossco and I are going to give it a whirl...lol

I think it's an M8 thread....This is a wild out there question but can anyone confirm this...LMAO???

The guy who we're borrowing it off only has m6 coils but I'll just get another coil.

I'll do a DIY thread for us too which will hopefully help others.

the way helicoils work is that you cut an oversi2e thread, and then screw a thing into it that looks like a coil spring. The coil spring then forms the new thread.

If the kit you are borrowing only has the tap to suit the helicoil to suit a 6mm bolt, I don't think that will work.

However I am guessing that the kit has a few taps including the ones to suit 8mm bolts in a few pitches? If so, only the right coil will be required in addition to the kit.

[AB]

Yes sorry I should have clarified it better. He just doesn't have the 8mm coil apparently.

If I just take bolt into a bolt shop to get a coil to suit then will my friends tooling be ok or do I need the tooling to match the pitch of the type if coil?

[AB]

I think you just answered my question in that post...haha

[Silver]

yeah Andy, the new coil will follow the thread you cut for it, so if the pitch does not suit your bolts, back to square one with stripped threads :-(

[AB]

I'll keep this on the forum for future reference if anyone needs the info.

The bolt is an M8-1.25 so the coil needed for the Helicoil is to suit M8 1.25x1.5D Recoil brand.

Rick has kindly offered to send me his Helicoil tooling so I'll do this next week and put up a DIY thread for us.

[MudRunnerTD]

I'll keep this on the forum for future reference if anyone needs the info.

The bolt is an M8-1.25 so the coil needed for the Helicoil is to suit M8 1.25x1.5D Recoil brand.

Rick has kindly offered to send me his Helicoil tooling so I'll do this next week and put up a DIY thread for us.

Yeah that is why they tend to come in a kit including matching tooling etc. Tap, drill bit, wrench, coils. If your not in a hurry and don't really have a need then borrowing the other bits will work well mate. I am going to buy a couple of those eBay kits for good prices just for spares and emergencies.

Good luck Andy, look forward to the DIY thread. Buy a torque wrench like you know you should though bud. It will come in handy Andy!!!! Look i made a funny! Sorry could not resist...Yes I'm an idiot ;)

[Silver]

my recoil kit didn't come with wrench and drill bit (at least pretty sure no drill bit). the drill bit can't have been too weird a dia. as I had one at home. I can't remember now if I used the t handle from my tap set, or due to lack of space used a socket set............

The instructions are in the kit AB, sorry didn't think about the drill bit or I could have chucked that in the box too.

[AB]

It says on the coil kit to use an 8.3mm drill bit.

Can't I just use an 8mm drill bit?

I'm assuming all I need to do is basically just core out the left over thread in the bore???

Tap it using the tool, screw in the coil using the other tool, punch out the tab at the bottom of the coil and whamoooo!!!

I will just use a socket set with the tooling and take extra care.

Snapping that tap in the hole would be a mammoth mistake....lol

[the ferret]

Andy you should use the 8.3 bit, use some ROCOLL or cutting oil or butter on the tap, work the tap back and forth a bit at a time, remember you are going into CAST, use a "bottoming" tap of good quality and put a cork in the oilway.
You will only get one shot at this so take your time mate.
Cheers, the ferret.

[AB]

Cheers Ferret, Rick has already sent the tooling and it doesn't come with the 8.3mm drill bit.

It does have the correct 8mm tap obviously and coiler.

Thanks for the tip mate, Yes, I slowly work it in, back and forth.

I haven't got any Rocoll or cutting oil...I do have butter however...lol...Would other oils be better then butter.....Cooking oil or WD40, etc?

I'm pretty sure the kit that Rick is sending is a bottoming tap....Quality, hope so!!!

If this stuffs up I'm going to weld shut the flange to the turbo and undo the braided line if it ever needs to come off...LMAO

[the ferret]

Andy, WD40 is too abrasive, butter, cooking or olive oil, vaseline lol,.
If it goes bad, plug the bottom of oil way with sylastic and rag, let it set, tap it to take a brass npt fitting and use an olive to fit the pipe.
Welding on the turbo is not a good idea as it's cast and may crack at the weld unless it's all pre heated, bang go the seals.
Cheers, the ferret.

[Bob]

My two Bob's worth Andy.

Get a Pro to do it

[growler2058]

My two Bob's worth Andy.

Get a Pro to do it

Nah one of you is enuff for us BoB hahahhaahaa:toot::hijacked: sorry

[AB]

My two Bob's worth Andy.

Get a Pro to do it

Understand what your saying Bob and agree but no one wants to come out woop woop and do this job and I'll get stung $150-$200 for a 10 minute job.

I can do it mate, just researched it a bit and watched some videos, she'll be right...LMAO

[the ferret]

Ha ha, I can remember when plonk was FOUR bob a bottle lol.
The frogs in the swamp near me still sing "plonk,fourbobabottle"
Gunna go 'n do some work now lol.
Cheers, the ferret.

[MudRunnerTD]

I can do it mate, just watched some videos, she'll be right...LMAO

Ahhh! Famous last words!!!

[Silver]

I managed with the exhaust manifold bolt in the head, so I reckon you'll be right!

[AB]

I have rung around like a madman this arvo and the closest drill bit I can find to suit 8.3mm for the hole is from Bunnings.

They have an 8.33mm drill bit.

Surely this will be ok???????????????????????????????????????????????? ?????????????????????????????????????????????????? ??????

Also, I am happy to let the forum know when I am an idiot too...lol....I have working on this at night time and couldn't see properly down there (poor excuse) and I just poked a welding stick through the hole and it bloody came out the bottom side of the turbo so it """"OBVIOUSLY""" does not go into the turbo itself and also if something drastic happened and I stuffed the whole thing up then you could possibly just use a lock nut, washers and bolt, etc....

[the ferret]

If the two holes go right through Andy, why don't you try that, as long as you can get two 8mm bolts to go through.(use 304 stainless) Or drill 8.33 right through.
Don't use Nyloc nuts on the turbo, they melt, use a proper lock nut or butcher the nut so it locks (bush trick)
Is there room for two 10mm bolts?, give me the length and I could source them and post them, you would need a m10 course thread.
ALWAYS use course thread when tapping into cast iron/steel.
Cheers, the ferret.

[AB]

Butcher is my middle name Ferret and done that many of times old mate...LMAO

I'm still super keen on doing my first Helicoil and Rick (Silver) has already sent the tooling so I'll give that a whirl with confidence of a second option.

Thanks mate but I'll see how I go first.

[the ferret]

No worries Andy, as a fitter I would go with the long bolt myself, but as you say if it turns to crap, use a bolt.
cheers, the ferret.

[AB]

No worries Andy, as a fitter I would go with the long bolt myself, but as you say if it turns to crap, use a bolt.
cheers, the ferret.

Hang on, sorry mate I'm lost...

Are you saying you would prefer a straight through bolt and lock nut to a Helicoil?

I don't care what I have to do I just want the best and most reliable fix????

[Silver]

is there room for a nut, lock washer and spanner behind the fitting we are talking about?

[AB]

is there room for a nut, lock washer and spanner behind the fitting we are talking about?

Just....lol

I can get the nut and washer in there no probs.

I can just get a spanner down there to hold the nut I reckon. I might have to cut the other end off but I am 99% confident it can be done.

I am more then happy to bolt and nut this puppy shut if you guys think it would be more reliable.

In fact, knowing that I have a second option if the Helicoil doesn't work I am quite confident in doing either one so it doesn't bother me. I just want to do the most effective.

When you think about it, the nut and bolt will be a lot more pressure for the flange to sit on the oil feed...

[AB]

If the two holes go right through Andy, why don't you try that, as long as you can get two 8mm bolts to go through.(use 304 stainless) Or drill 8.33 right through.
Don't use Nyloc nuts on the turbo, they melt, use a proper lock nut or butcher the nut so it locks (bush trick)
Is there room for two 10mm bolts?, give me the length and I could source them and post them, you would need a m10 course thread.
ALWAYS use course thread when tapping into cast iron/steel.
Cheers, the ferret.

Just re read this mate. I can't get access to the good thread that is closest to the block. That side is impossible to get access to.

But, that thread is ok and can be used with the standard bolt so I would be keeping that and using a straight through bolt on the other side.

I would actually prefer to do the long bolt and nut....

[the ferret]

Andy, you have seen what happens with helicoils, the temps on the turbo are very high at times, If you can use one of the original bolts, good.
I would go with a long bolt, even if you have to cut part of the hex off to get the bolt to sit. don't use spring washers, use a flat washer and a proper lock nut.'You can squash the nut sideways a whisker in the vice to make it a lock nut or peen the top threads on the nut to make it lock.
NO loctite.
If you use stainless,lock the nut a bit, it'll never come undone, you'll need to snap it to undo it.
Cheers, the ferret.
PS: tack weld a spur onto the head of the bolt, insert it from below and you won't need a spanner on it, it will jam and not turn.

[Silver]

G'day ferret, lots of interesting info in your last couple of posts - not to say they aren't always interesting of course! :-)

When squee2ing the stainless nut, how much of a squee2e is a good idea? I've seen stainless to stainless gall and stick - I guess that's what you mean when you talk about breaking them. How do you make sure the bolt and nut torque up in the first place without galling and carrying on? Years of experience I guess :-) ?

[Silver]

Just re read this mate. I can't get access to the good thread that is closest to the block. That side is impossible to get access to.

But, that thread is ok and can be used with the standard bolt so I would be keeping that and using a straight through bolt on the other side.

I would actually prefer to do the long bolt and nut....

On the good side, ferret, and AB, would a new bolt be required, or take a punt on the best of the old ones?

[the ferret]

A new bolt would be best, nice fresh thread, heat and rust affects threads.
I was stuck years ago when you could drive to the top of Ayres Rock, had a V8 landcrab, ran over a paperbark stump and ripped the sump off, oil fell out grabbed a bearing and bent a rod and snapped the crankshaft in two.
Fair and square on the top of the big red rock
I was lucky as I found a bit of old railway line that used to go to the top, melted it down with the Coleman lamp, cast a new crank as best I could and used some of the roobar to make the conrod. The only tools I had was an old nail file, a pocket knife with no blade and a one inch piece of hacksaw blade, times were tough back then.
The tongue of my boot was used for a new big end shell and I extracted the oil from the paperbark stump ta get me going.
It was a slow trip back to the Alice, but we made it just in time for the annual surf competition.
So Andy, yer not in as big a pile of sh ! t as you think, anything is possible, as long as you have MATES
Cheers, the ferret.

[the ferret]

G'day ferret, lots of interesting info in your last couple of posts - not to say they aren't always interesting of course! :-)

When squee2ing the stainless nut, how much of a squee2e is a good idea? I've seen stainless to stainless gall and stick - I guess that's what you mean when you talk about breaking them. How do you make sure the bolt and nut torque up in the first place without galling and carrying on? Years of experience I guess :-) ?
Yep only just a slight egg shape, you are correct, stainless on stainless will gaul, EVERY time.
Never sieze is your friend., don't stress about torque, just do it up tight till it don't leak lol.

[AB]

Cheers Ferret, Great news to start the day.

I might have some 301 torx bolts in M8 down the shed.

I'll go have a look...

[AB]

Success!!!!

Thanks for your help ferret and sorry I made you send down the Helicoil kit Rick but I'll throw in the bag of 10 x 8mm coils and send them back to you. Can you please PM your address, etc...

Ok, I found some 304 SS torx bolts which would have been perfect. First problem was there was no room to put the bolt in from the bottom. Second problem is the Torx bolts wern't long enough...

Anyways, I found an Allen key head bolt 304 SS too which was perfect length but still no way of going from underneath so I had to go from the top.

See pics below...I had to weld the squeezed nut on to a tent peg and use that as a guide (don't laugh at my welding Ferret...lol) and after a few tries it worked!!!

Also, After putting the bolt through the top and being longer then the original there was some good thread inside the turbo so the actual bolt was screwed in tight and the flange was on perfect. The squeezed nut was an added bonus!!!!

I had to remove the banjo bolt from the water feed so I lost all of my brand new coolant...GRRR!!!

But It's done! I haven't confirmed It's sealed 100% as I have minimal oil left in the car from other attempts but I'll do a service soon and let you all know...BUT...I'm 99.99999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999 99999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999 99999999999999999999999999999999999999999% sure it has worked!!!

Nightmare job though....2.5 hours to put one bloody bolt in...LMAO...Before I welded the nut to the tent peg I reckon I dropped the nut under the car at least a dozen times...

Also, check out my new spanner....lol...No choice, no room to move unde the turbo for the nut...lol....Just got the nut on tight!!!

[the ferret]

Good one Andy, well done mate.
Cheers, the ferret.

[Bob]

Success!!!!
But It's done! I haven't confirmed It's sealed 100% as I have minimal oil left in the car from other attempts but I'll do a service soon and let you all know...BUT...I'm 99.99999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999 99999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999 99999999999999999999999999999999999999999% sure it has worked!!!



So you are not 100% RAFLMAO

AAA for effort Andy

[Sir Roofy]

your the man andy well done mate be seeing you soon

[MudRunnerTD]

Good job Andy,

Mate the reason why God created Chinese Spanners is so you can cut them up on an "As needed" basis. Keep the Sidchromes for the good stuff mate.

[Silver]

Great work Andy!

[AB]

Good job Andy,

Mate the reason why God created Chinese Spanners is so you can cut them up on an "As needed" basis. Keep the Sidchromes for the good stuff mate.

I was giving the chinese set when I was 16 years old and I kind you not they are a life saver for these jobs.

Don't ever throw them away. 1/2" 14mm 12mm, etc these butchered spanners come in handy every year!

Also, SUCCESS x 2....Just did a full service on Bluey today and the feed line is bone dry....Loving it!!!

This was the first service for Bluey and now the oil lamp cuts out after 1.5 seconds rather then 4 seconds on start up.

Quality is the key!.....Filters, oil, etc

[Silver]

congrats on a job well done

[the ferret]

I was giving the chinese set when I was 16 years old and I kind you not they are a life saver for these jobs.

Don't ever throw them away. 1/2" 14mm 12mm, etc these butchered spanners come in handy every year!

Also, SUCCESS x 2....Just did a full service on Bluey today and the feed line is bone dry....Loving it!!!

This was the first service for Bluey and now the oil lamp cuts out after 1.5 seconds rather then 4 seconds on start up.

Quality is the key!.....Filters, oil, etc
Good fer another 200 thousand ks Andy, just go over the bolts in a few days mate.
Cheers, the ferret.

[Silver]

G'day Mudrunner and Ferret, while Andy had to do the hard work and the swearing, he wasn't the only one to benefit from your help with the problem here - I learned a bit too, thanks!!

[the ferret]

G'day Mudrunner and Ferret, while Andy had to do the hard work and the swearing, he wasn't the only one to benefit from your help with the problem here - I learned a bit too, thanks!!
No worries Silver, this forum has a great bunch of people who have great pleasure in helping others and sharing experiences.
Some are qualified, others not, but their input is as valuable as can be.
I don't know what you do, but your knowledge would be just as useful when called upon I'm sure.
Often there is crap and tongue in cheek, but the feeling I get here is mateship.
If I have helped as others have, that's good, but it's just about sharing.
Why keep it to yourself if someone can benefit from the things you have learned over the years, there is no great loss in telling what you know.
Thankyou for taking the time to comment.
Cheers, the ferret.

[AB]

just go over the bolts in a few days mate.

Interesting you said that. When I was doing a service yesterday I noticed a nut missing from the exhaust manifold from when I installed it along with the turbo a few months back.

I never re checked those after I installed it.

[Maxhead]

Good job Andy, glad you got it sorted!!