Cleaning chainsaw chains

[mudski]

So after a big session with my saw gutting wood, in particular green Stringy Bark I have found. The chains gum up with hard black crap and it was a pain to clean off. Until I found out that if I soaked the chain in water and a sprinkle of drain cleaner, after a light scrubbing with a brush, they came up like they’d never been used before. Unbelievable! I’m probably the only person in the world who didn’t know this but it works really well.
Just thought I’d share in case I’m not the only person living under a rock.

https://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2024/03/35.jpg


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[Winnie]

I find that just cutting wood cleans them up pretty good

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[mudski]

I find that just cutting wood cleans them up pretty good

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I have found different timbers do different to the chains. Last weekend I spent 5 hours slicing up a fallen mountain ash. Its wasn't dry timber, the chain was still pretty good. Cutting wet Stringy bark, which has that real dark, almost molasses look to the sap, bakes on the the hot chain and refuses to come off. Using the drain cleaner cleans them up no worries.

[pollenface]

Thanks for posting!

Never cleaned a chain yet, usually just lube and sharpen. Will give it a go now

[MB]

Sugar Gum’s by namesake used to give our little coupe sticky grief too mudski Brother [emoji106][emoji106]
Hot soapy water around the campfire appeared to be best in the long run, please do be weary of harsh chemicals, many modern chainsaw bars do have pre-greased (unserviceable) rollers in their noses [emoji103][emoji51]


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[mudski]

Sugar Gum’s by namesake used to give our little coupe sticky grief too mudski Brother [emoji106][emoji106]
Hot soapy water around the campfire appeared to be best in the long run, please do be weary of harsh chemicals, many modern chainsaw bars do have pre-greased (unserviceable) rollers in their noses [emoji103][emoji51]


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All good mate. I'm not cleaning the bar with drain cleaner, just compressed air and a decent spray lubricant for that.

[mudski]

Thanks for posting!

Never cleaned a chain yet, usually just lube and sharpen. Will give it a go now

It doesn't need a lot of drain cleaner, just a light sprinkle and then let the bubbles do their thing.

[BigRAWesty]

If it works go for it I say.
But once out the water throw it in a zip lock bag with some bar oil and bath it with lube for a week.
The draino will be stripping all oil out of the pins and I feel like it'll wear out quickly..

I usually store the sharp chains this way to so they are lubed ready to go in the field.

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[Arfa Brayne]

All sorts of screams will come from what I'm about to say..........

"Use sump oil, and turn the chain oiler up full"

Sump oil (engine oil) contains detergents. Plenty of oil helps the cut and cools the chain. Sap doesn't stick to oil.

Most people won't use sump oil because it's "dirty and full of contaminants" and "it doesn't lubricate properly"
They fail to consider that the dust, dirt, and shavings from cutting timber are at least 50x more contamination than sump oil contains
And if it doesn't lubricate properly - well, what was it doing before you drained it from your engine?

More wear and tear from a stingey "proper chain oil" feed than a good flowing sump oiler.
I run a tank of sump oil per tank of fuel.

[Plasnart]

All sorts of screams will come from what I'm about to say..........

"Use sump oil, and turn the chain oiler up full"

Sump oil (engine oil) contains detergents. Plenty of oil helps the cut and cools the chain. Sap doesn't stick to oil.

Most people won't use sump oil because it's "dirty and full of contaminants" and "it doesn't lubricate properly"
They fail to consider that the dust, dirt, and shavings from cutting timber are at least 50x more contamination than sump oil contains
And if it doesn't lubricate properly - well, what was it doing before you drained it from your engine?

More wear and tear from a stingey "proper chain oil" feed than a good flowing sump oiler.
I run a tank of sump oil per tank of fuel.

Nice one. Helps light your fires too I bet :)

[Plasnart]

Nice one. Helps light your fires too I bet :)

That actually reads differently to how it was meant to sound.

Nice one Arfa. Good tip. Must be a bit more oil around than normal but sounds like a pretty good idea to me. 👍

[MB]

Thanks Arfa, will definitely be trying that ASAP Legend [emoji120][emoji106][emoji106]


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[AB]

Liking this bloke, thanks for your input Arfa!


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[MB]

Agreed AB & arfaBrayne Legends [emoji106][emoji106][emoji3590][emoji3590]
Somewhat completely off topic a whisker past midnight [emoji51][emoji23]
If for some reason folks are not trying to smash out firewood 🪵 cross cuts and are say milling like Alaskan’s for long slabs.
Too much heavy OEM saw oil will soak deep into every cut, highly recommend a second set of hands squirting say 25/75% ratio detergent/water on your bars nose tips[emoji103][emoji736]
Your slabs will need a heap less planing/sanding for greater returns[emoji383] [emoji383][emoji736][emoji736][emoji3590][emoji3590]


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[mudski]

If it works go for it I say.
But once out the water throw it in a zip lock bag with some bar oil and bath it with lube for a week.
The draino will be stripping all oil out of the pins and I feel like it'll wear out quickly..

I usually store the sharp chains this way to so they are lubed ready to go in the field.

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Not sure if there is any detrimental issues to the chain using drain cleaner, I will look into this though to see if there actually is though. I do see this method used a lot on the Woodcutters, chainsaw users etc forums and Face Aches pages, so theres either a lot of dumb people out there, including myself (highly possible), or it just works. Without and damage. Once out they get a good soaking and rinse in WD40 or similar, then a 24hour soak in a tub of bar oil, then as mentioned, put in zip lock bags ready to go.

I will give Arfa's method a go next as I have plenty of used sump oil here. I'm keen to see the results...