TD rev range opinions.

[DeanPatrol]

I asked this on a FB page and the primitive cesspool hanging out there, quickly turned the discussion into a abortion and admin threw the axe at it. Here's hoping I have lighter experience here lol.
We own a (wife's daily) 2006 wagon. We've had it just under a year after moving down to Melbourne from QLD.
It went to a mechanic last week for a good look over and service as were doing a trip shortly.
I mentioned that to me the car feels underpowered before handing keys to him. He said hell look into it.
Car checked out fine except for a ceized lock hub which I didnt know about. And he (the machanic) said the car has plenty of go power wise. I was kinda surprised at this was hoping otherwise. So he suggested lets go for a drive which we did within a few hundred meteres he said he found the issue. THE DRIVER. APparently I dont rev it out far enough on each gear. rev it out to 2000-ish or just under or over before shift. TO me that seems legit for a no frills truck motor. He disagreed and suggested this motor lives in the 2000s and 3000s rev range unless taking off.
Now i come from a previous ownership of a 4.8 so Im no stranger to tickling the red bits (taco that is). But it just does not feel right with this dinosaur diesel in terms of sending the needle up too high.

Diesel drivers , please comfort me. lol

[Plasnart]

I presume you’re referring to the TD42T when you say dinosaur? I’m like you, I like to change up at 2000 because the thing can still pull at 1500 in the next gear up. But you wont be fast. The motor does love the 2-3000rpm range but for general accelleration from a standing start I don’t see the point in giving it a boogie. Leave that for when you need it offroad IMO.

[geoffayres]

You don't say anything about the state of tune.
If it's still at factory settings it will be very lazy.
I usually change up at around 2k or so when driving normally.

[graveyard_queen13]

TD's produce most of there power in the lower end of the rev range. I would say between 2-3k. Anything higher than that and you can feel the power drop off even though revs are climbing. I'm sure you can tune it to still maintain power at higher rpm but personally the thing that I love about diesels is feeling that low end torque.

[mihit]

2006... :hpfredgeorge1:


dinosaur :jawdrop::smileyvault-cute-bi


Will depend on your tyre size, diff ratio, state of tune etc. Most of the torques are made "just off" idle.... before 1500n iirc. No idea on the horsepony curve, but yeah.... they're tractors.
3k rpm seems excessive for normal driving.
Fit an EGT, that will show you exactly how happy your engine is at what revs/scenario.

[mudski]

Anywhere between 2300 and 3000 for my old TD. It will still produce power right up to 4000rpm aswell. But this is how mine has been built and tuned. Anything under 2000rpm and it hates it and refuses to perform.
In stock form I don't know, but if they've had a tickle, the answer to your question will be different every time.

[Cuppa]

2006 TD42i - Stock except for 3" exhaust & dyno'd for towing , with a modest increase to max boost (from stock 7psi to 13.2psi). After several years of running it like this I still think that the exhaust & dyno made it into the car it should have been off the showroom floor. None of the oft reported overheating issues & the motor has been ultra reliable, so much so it's fair to say that of all the vehicles I've owned this is the one I trust the most. Perfect for the use for which it was purchased.Long term remote touring. No dragster, but lots of torque, & turbo cuts in at around 1800rpm. In normal everyday use I change up at around 2000rpm to 2200rpm, but if extra speed is needed that can go up to 3000rpm. I rarely take it over 3000rpm. In travel mode we generally have an all up weight (car & camper) of around 5 Tonnes.

[jff45]

I occasionally push mine over 3000 rpm but only to remind myself why there's not much point in doing it.. Mine's auto so it changes up before 2000 anyway on light throttle.

[MB]

I asked this on a FB page and the primitive cesspool hanging out there, quickly turned the discussion into a abortion and admin threw the axe at it. Here's hoping I have lighter experience here lol.
We own a (wife's daily) 2006 wagon. We've had it just under a year after moving down to Melbourne from QLD.
It went to a mechanic last week for a good look over and service as were doing a trip shortly.
I mentioned that to me the car feels underpowered before handing keys to him. He said hell look into it.
Car checked out fine except for a ceized lock hub which I didnt know about. And he (the machanic) said the car has plenty of go power wise. I was kinda surprised at this was hoping otherwise. So he suggested lets go for a drive which we did within a few hundred meteres he said he found the issue. THE DRIVER. APparently I dont rev it out far enough on each gear. rev it out to 2000-ish or just under or over before shift. TO me that seems legit for a no frills truck motor. He disagreed and suggested this motor lives in the 2000s and 3000s rev range unless taking off.
Now i come from a previous ownership of a 4.8 so Im no stranger to tickling the red bits (taco that is). But it just does not feel right with this dinosaur diesel in terms of sending the needle up too high.

Diesel drivers , please comfort me. lol


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Nissan_engines


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[DeanPatrol]

Yes it is a turbo intercooled. THanks all for the replies. My last reply didnt go through for some reason.
I'll run with my instincts and your replies drive it like a mack truck. As i said i just dont feel this thing liking being revved high im rather surprised the way the mechanic drove it is the way he thinks is the way to get up and go out of it. Patrol needs a few small things done like and ill think of taking it elsewhere.

[MudRunnerTD]

Yes it is a turbo intercooled. THanks all for the replies. My last reply didnt go through for some reason.
I'll run with my instincts and your replies drive it like a mack truck. As i said i just dont feel this thing liking being revved high im rather surprised the way the mechanic drove it is the way he thinks is the way to get up and go out of it. Patrol needs a few small things done like and ill think of taking it elsewhere.

I highly recomend a Dyno Tune. You will find it not really making mush boost until 1900 or so and you really are babying it. They Hate 2000rpm, Hate it. 2000rmp is the magic number for a Kettle in my opinion for both my TDs. Cruising ar 2200 to 2400rpm and they just sing. cruisoing at 2000rpm and the EGTs can get a little Hows ya father.

Once Tuned you could make 4000rpm and the only thing stopping you is your mechanical sympathy. a stock TD42T will be pretty flat through the 3000rpm onwoulds but tuned and there is a power curve up there that they just love.

Fit it up with a decent Turbo and 12mm pump and nice intercooler (The factory is junk) and it will be transformed. Night and Day mate.

[Touses]

Ok, my tuppence worth.
Although my critter is balanced to within an nth degree it is still a td 42.
I swap out at 2200, it pulls from 1200 and happily revs right thru to 3000.
No use revving beyond that, feck all to be gained.
Upgrade your fuel pump, 11m is fine, big diff to be seen there and with a decent tune naff all difference in fuel consumption.
Tuppence worth done with.

[MB]

[emoji736][emoji736][emoji3590][emoji3590]TP
Good & Great 12mm Rarities are few and far between, 11mm are more than enough to achieve anything Australia can safely/wisely/longevity throw at oneself [emoji123][emoji123][emoji736][emoji736][emoji123][emoji3590]


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[DeanPatrol]

I highly recomend a Dyno Tune. You will find it not really making mush boost until 1900 or so and you really are babying it. They Hate 2000rpm, Hate it. 2000rmp is the magic number for a Kettle in my opinion for both my TDs. Cruising ar 2200 to 2400rpm and they just sing. cruisoing at 2000rpm and the EGTs can get a little Hows ya father.

Once Tuned you could make 4000rpm and the only thing stopping you is your mechanical sympathy. a stock TD42T will be pretty flat through the 3000rpm onwoulds but tuned and there is a power curve up there that they just love.

Fit it up with a decent Turbo and 12mm pump and nice intercooler (The factory is junk) and it will be transformed. Night and Day mate.

Thanks for this insight and taking your time to respond RunMudder. Been doing reading and youre on the money. If it were my daily / camper / off roader id be throwing this car at the mercy of diesel ticklers. But the wifestar drives this daily and it hardly gets warmed up before she gets to work (which is another issue , but thats for another chapter).

Im content with the power this thing has. And again im ass you ming that tune / power wise it has never been touched judging by receipts. But its NEVER big enough I guess.
Is it effective to give it a tune whilst retaining factory snail and pump? Its the sort of $ i dont want to throw at it given our scenario and askings of he car.
If so is there a go to tuner around melbourne? I'm new in town so to speak. I quickly googled and facebooked but got lost quickly in chats regarding fuel screw jockey tuners out there. Im no expert in diesel tuning but fuel screw massaging seems to be a common denominator amongst chats i found to be a BIG no no.

[DeanPatrol]

Ok, my tuppence worth.
Although my critter is balanced to within an nth degree it is still a td 42.
I swap out at 2200, it pulls from 1200 and happily revs right thru to 3000.
No use revving beyond that, feck all to be gained.
Upgrade your fuel pump, 11m is fine, big diff to be seen there and with a decent tune naff all difference in fuel consumption.
Tuppence worth done with.

thanks for responding mate. i replied above to mudrunner with more or less same thoughts to your words mate.

[DeanPatrol]

Just to clarify...
When i asked about WHEN do you change gears. I was merely asking WHAT do you rev it to in each gear?
I hardly go to 2300, somtimes more before dropping it and swapping to next upper cog. RInse and repeat.

The mechanic in question, @questioned@ this. He revved it to 3k or so, and very quickly shifted before revs had a chance to breathe and drop much at all.
Nascar td42 pretender there guys. I wasnt buying it.

[Cremulator]

After I bought my 04 TD42 I took it to Diesel -tec in Lilydale on the recommendation of a few members on here.
It already had a 3in exhaust, but otherwise stock.
The tune was pricey, but I have to say well worth it and done by someone who absolutely knows these engines. So the piece of mind was worth it.

Previous owner had dialed up the fuel screw, so Andy at Diesel-tec increased the boost to match and I achieved much better fuel economy.

I drive it around town mostly and get about 12.8L/100

[mihit]

fuel screw jockey tuners out there. Im no expert in diesel tuning but fuel screw massaging seems to be a common denominator amongst chats i found to be a BIG no no.

Done properly and sympathetically, it can make a positive difference. (I'd always advise a lift-pump, pre-injector-pump as well)
Consider that these things were assembled to be reliable AF (detuned from factory) and *just a couple* of years ago... a tweak on the smoke screw will usually help.

It's the "wind it in until you're blowing like a train, then dial back an eighth-turn" muppets that tend to blow motors.

And as above... EGT gauge will tell you what-for.

[MB]

Very “Happy” so far with UFI’s 11mm / 18g ‘kit’ (United Fuel Injection) from over in WA after QLD Guru’s recommendations kindly on here [emoji120][emoji120][emoji736][emoji736]

https://www.unitedfuel.com.au/vehicle-performance/aftermarket-turbo-kit

Decided to Intercool directly under my highest muddy/river crossing speccy stock bonnet via W2A (water to air) thanks to PWR and their efficient cylinder Hot-Dogs too [emoji120][emoji120]

https://shop.pwr.com.au/intercoolers

Merely 156 rwkw (rear wheel kilowatts) (not flywheel) and a helpful 650 Nm ( Newcastle Mum’s) of hard/slow workable torque [emoji123][emoji123]


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[jff45]

Very “Happy” so far with UFI’s 11mm / 18g ‘kit’ (United Fuel Injection) from over in WA after QLD Guru’s recommendations kindly on here [emoji120][emoji120][emoji736][emoji736]

https://www.unitedfuel.com.au/vehicle-performance/aftermarket-turbo-kit

Decided to Intercool directly under my highest muddy/river crossing speccy stock bonnet via W2A (water to air) thanks to PWR and their efficient cylinder Hot-Dogs too [emoji120][emoji120]

https://shop.pwr.com.au/intercoolers

Merely 156 rwkw (rear wheel kilowatts) (not flywheel) and a helpful 650 Nm ( Newcastle Mum’s) of hard/slow workable torque [emoji123][emoji123]



Are you measuring intake air temps with the W2A? I'm currently converting mine to W2A with Aeroflow gear (IC, pump & heat exchanger) and I'm putting exposed tip thermocouples before & after the IC to see how much difference it makes.

Apologies to the OP for the hijack..

[MB]

Not as yet sorry John, no data there unfortunately, had to cut a few items off the full rebuild only 1,500km running in still ago. Are measuring water temp coming out of the exchanger at the re-entry point of the intercooler barrel (turbo side). Haven’t been able to get it above say 55C and the highest possible EGT’s (Exhaust Gas Temperatures) have been about 400C although haven’t towed a trailer as yet. Being a ute I have the exchanger on the open headboard cooling via roof air passing over and haven’t really used the electric fan for it yet as it’s winter and I need to reverse its polarity from rushed installation for a Tassie trip [emoji23]


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[Touses]

I need to reverse its polarity from rushed installation for a Tassie trip [emoji23]

So it's a pushy poo poo instead of a sucky thru thru?

( I think I got MB speak down pretty well there.)


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[MB]

Perfecto [emoji23][emoji736][emoji736]


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[Touses]

Perfecto [emoji23][emoji736][emoji736]


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After all these years!!!!

[DeanPatrol]

Apologies to the OP for the hijack..

Not good enough mate

87097

seriously no issues. good to learn and read about other peoples setup. despite being well above my brain-length and needs.


On a side note a neighbour took his cooler off and washed the inside of it supposedly being his habit once in a while. He gave us a chop out on doing ours as well.
Yikes the oily sludge caked on the inside was something else. not helping my original question but after a good petrol soak and clean i can sense the car pulling every slightly harder now. Now i dont know what pressures or exhaust temps this thing has as no gauges. but looking at maybe replacing the cooler should be on the cards too.

[DeanPatrol]

Also
going back to tuners and tuning mentions up there. I rang around a couple. explained my scenario.
common concensus they gave me and price-wise (at least they were honest) is:
time vs. $ spent on the rollers for a factory rig like mine isnt worthy when you lay out a cost of gauges AND one of them better turbos off the shelf (ring patrolapart they said).
yes then car will still need put on rollers but the cost efficiency and gains is in the next league in contrast to tuning a brick stock patrol.

rest assured. my money is what they would hap[ily take. but i was given a quick spiel as such below and above.

The bt18 turbo on this thing can only do so much. new turbo alone would transform this car supposedly (as mentionedf by a few posters above). and pump being 11 on my model? not 10? or 12? they lost me there, @should@ be sufficient. just going by quick notes i jotted down on a pizza box during phone calls.

its only money they say. but other boxes then need ticking. 3 inch pipe and dump. gauges. ive noticed the turbos come with these, example the ufi 18 low mount to a sound of 2800 smackaroonies. remainder of exhaust then needs doing. and as above. intercooler then needs doing.
where does one draw a welded line.

what we (the missus mainly) own here is a unicorn with golden teeth (insurance company says so too judging by a*rse widening premium).
would happily spend $ on it as it is a keeper because so. just have to get right advice and put on right rails for purchases etc...

[mihit]

I need to reverse its polarity from rushed installation for a Tassie trip [emoji23]

So it's a pushy poo poo instead of a sucky thru thru?

( I think I got MB speak down pretty well there.)



Yea I think you got MBspeak down pat...
I can't hardly understand the f@ck you're on about!
:P

[mihit]

Also
going back to tuners and tuning mentions up there. I rang around a couple. explained my scenario.
common concensus they gave me and price-wise (at least they were honest) is:
time vs. $ spent on the rollers for a factory rig like mine isnt worthy when you lay out a cost of gauges AND one of them better turbos off the shelf (ring patrolapart they said).
yes then car will still need put on rollers but the cost efficiency and gains is in the next league in contrast to tuning a brick stock patrol.

rest assured. my money is what they would hap[ily take. but i was given a quick spiel as such below and above.

The bt18 turbo on this thing can only do so much. new turbo alone would transform this car supposedly (as mentionedf by a few posters above). and pump being 11 on my model? not 10? or 12? they lost me there, @should@ be sufficient. just going by quick notes i jotted down on a pizza box during phone calls.

its only money they say. but other boxes then need ticking. 3 inch pipe and dump. gauges. ive noticed the turbos come with these, example the ufi 18 low mount to a sound of 2800 smackaroonies. remainder of exhaust then needs doing. and as above. intercooler then needs doing.
where does one draw a welded line.

what we (the missus mainly) own here is a unicorn with golden teeth (insurance company says so too judging by a*rse widening premium).
would happily spend $ on it as it is a keeper because so. just have to get right advice and put on right rails for purchases etc...

Good god man, you've caught MB-itis.

A 3" flexi-back zorst is pretty much step #1 with all safaris.

The stock IP will deliver enough fuel for most minor turbos, if you fit a lift pump.

There's a certain limit where you can blow more fuel than air, or air than fuel, but it's a bit out of the way of "daily driver".
Dyno tunes here in NZ are stupid expensive. Most of us use the seat-o-the-pants tuneup method. Maybe that's just hillbillies that I know.

My money would be on flowing it...intake and exhaust. Then see how much fuel you can feed it to keep up with the air.
If you only fit one gauge, I'd say EGT. Everything else is interesting, but EGT handily tells you when your engine is about to dismantle itself.

[mihit]

Ah, and with the bigger exhaust plumbing, double up the heat shielding on the clutch slave. At least, good advice on the GQ. not sure if they changed the plumbing in later years.

[MB]

Apologies Dean & John Mates [emoji22] Washing up after a weekend away remembered Nuffy posting rushed data/statistics posted above were incorrect [emoji51]
‘MAX’ W2A water/H2O so far achieved heading ‘back out’ for headboard treatment this mountain weekend has been 47C highway exchanger fanless.
The “55C” flogging original now highway test was in fact water/out after being cooked/baked by the Intercooler in say sub 15C ambients highway home [emoji537]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/07/70.jpg


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[MB]

“How did your Twuck/Bus catch on fire @MB” [emoji91] [emoji22]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/07/84.jpg

“Forgot to remove the impromptu sticky note” [emoji404] [emoji23][emoji23]


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[MB]

FWIW: Also scored 425C on the EGT’s deliberately trying my hardest to pop 5th GQ gear properly sooting up a 3-5 minute highway incline [emoji51]


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[MB]

FWIW: Also scored 425C on the EGT’s deliberately trying my hardest to pop 5th GQ gear properly sooting up a 3-5 minute highway incline near home [emoji51]


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[jff45]

Mine’s still a work in progress so I don’t have the thermocouple in the hot side to compare in/out air temps.
I won’t be measuring the water temps at all.
I only have 3 and a bit litres coolant capacity at the moment so I’m working on adding a 5 litre reservoir.
It runs high 30’s low 40° on a recent quick run down the highway without flogging it.
It will heat soak to 48° after standing for a half hour but quickly comes down to 40° after restarting.
I have the disadvantage of my trans cooler now in front of the heat exchanger so that’s not helping.


87099

[mihit]

FWIW: Also scored 425C on the EGT’s deliberately trying my hardest to pop 5th GQ gear properly sooting up a 3-5 minute highway incline [emoji51]


Where is your thermo mounted? I'll clock 412 going up a lazy hill.

Probe is on manifold (under heat shield) before collector, between 3 & 4 cyl...

[MB]

Apologies, missed the question with only one eye open…..It’s here on top of the top mount dumpy pipe mihit Mate [emoji106][emoji106]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/07/86.jpg


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[DeanPatrol]

cheers for the responses every body.
We flew back home for a few days and i had a chance to drive another similar factory untouched td albeit a few years older and it was a another level compared to ours.
Even the wifester had a go (as ours is her daily) and she too felt a noticeable difference in response and a bit more viagra in it.
without resorting to a new thread. what could go amiss in a TD to make it sluggish? low boost? (i am looking at gauges to fit). injectors? Our car has just over 170k. unsure if it is a worthy candidate for fresh injectors? Ours is younger and way way less Kays. after earlier discussions of maybe upgrading bits and bobs on this engine, now my head is in a spin after driving another factory virgin TD older and more Kays and had much more hump than ours. maybe something is sour under the bonnet?

In other news i don't know how the Torians survived this weather after centuries considering the sunny QLD (home) my bones were grafted on and where i just spent last few days in....

[mihit]

without resorting to a new thread. what could go amiss in a TD to make it sluggish? low boost? (i am looking at gauges to fit). injectors? Our car has just over 170k. unsure if it is a worthy candidate for fresh injectors? Ours is younger and way way less Kays. after earlier discussions of maybe upgrading bits and bobs on this engine, now my head is in a spin after driving another factory virgin TD older and more Kays and had much more hump than ours. maybe something is sour under the bonnet?


Fresh injectors never go amiss, but they should last a bit longer than that I do mine every quarter million KM, obviously make sure all fuel filters are clear and flowing (if they kept the same pump from GQ then there's a mesh filter INSIDE the ip inlet which you have to fetch out with a hook or small inside calipers. It shouldn't be blocked at all...but); air filters too; EGR delete; computer re-flash; check compression; high electrical load on alternator?; A/C on?.

I'd be giving that smoke-screw a bit of a turn.
(boost with not moar fuel will cause engine to run lean and hot, with no more power.
The only way to get moar boogie is moar fuel.

Moar fuel requires moar air (the job of a turbo) to maintain optimum stoichiometric ratio)

[MudRunnerTD]

cheers for the responses every body.
We flew back home for a few days and i had a chance to drive another similar factory untouched td albeit a few years older and it was a another level compared to ours.
Even the wifester had a go (as ours is her daily) and she too felt a noticeable difference in response and a bit more viagra in it.
without resorting to a new thread. what could go amiss in a TD to make it sluggish? low boost? (i am looking at gauges to fit). injectors? Our car has just over 170k. unsure if it is a worthy candidate for fresh injectors? Ours is younger and way way less Kays. after earlier discussions of maybe upgrading bits and bobs on this engine, now my head is in a spin after driving another factory virgin TD older and more Kays and had much more hump than ours. maybe something is sour under the bonnet?

In other news i don't know how the Torians survived this weather after centuries considering the sunny QLD (home) my bones were grafted on and where i just spent last few days in....

They really do respond well to a tune from a stock setup, it will be noticable for sure. you will drive in with 65kw or so and drive out with 85 or 90kw, you will know its different for sure.

The 11mm pump is pretty good and the HT18 although small will carry you along fine.

I would invest in a Redarc multi guage, (EGT, Boost & Waater Temp), (If i was starting again with guages i would go straight to that guage. pricey but worth every cent.

Once you have a guage in take it to a Tuner for a Dyno, they can fit a Boost controller for you, they will hve to fit an exhaust bung for the pyro into the Dump pipe and they will use that for the Dyno run too. See if you can get some nubmers out of your current setup. I have a GUIV TD42T with the HT18 bog stock and had it tuned to 16psi and nice fuel and it got it done for a few years. Worht the investment.

If you have a Sub 200,00km Factory TD that has not been opened then you ahve a Unicorn and it will simeply Love a big turbo and pump, the transformation is real. make plans and build it ober time. there are a couple of big threads here around developing a great set up.

[DeanPatrol]

Cheerios for the responses again all.
mihit - A lot of those dont apply to this motor like no computer or egr etc and being a bog stock untouched motor and car overall unmolested .

I think i will go with the gauges first as mudrunner suggested to see how its dancing as it is before getting the spanners and wallet out.
One good ( or is it?) thing i noticed in contrast to all other td's out there is it blows next to no smoke.

[MB]

Reading with one eye open again, duties done, FWIW: we ran quite a few stocky TD42T motors in utes back den and found simple upgrades like 3”exhausts & proper dyno tunes scored something like 10% more power & say 10% more efficiency. Careful pretty please turning ‘Dark Arts’ screws without guidance [emoji120][emoji120][emoji3590][emoji3590]


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[DeanPatrol]

Reading with one eye open again, duties done, FWIW: we ran quite a few stocky TD42T motors in utes back den and found simple upgrades like 3”exhausts & proper dyno tunes scored something like 10% more power & say 10% more efficiency. Careful pretty please turning ‘Dark Arts’ screws without guidance [emoji120][emoji120][emoji3590][emoji3590]


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Thanks MB.
I religously subscribe to mechanical balance. im confident these run issue worry free outta the Nissan factory. So this screw tampering is beyond me as itll disturb this balance.
Leave it be to the men in the know. I touch nutting!
Will carefully choose a set of rolers somewhere and give it a whirl (they will) to see what optimum gains shall be had and proceed to there.
Gave the car a good happy birthday drive through Melbournes northern mountainous drive yesterday our first off-road outing since moxing to Mextoria. Taloorak is gorgeous reminds me of Coofs harbor somewhat.
Think a new set of rubber is a must too.

[DeanPatrol]

Long time no speak.
Wifestar and my self just took the rig for a few weeks back home around queens of land and then back to windy carnt of a place mexico Melbournia.

As stated in aboveish posts ive had some gagues fitted to see this rigs pulse and vitals. Ive some educating needed.
She idles and drives lightly in the 77-82C water temps. With a bit of insentive she will shoot to high 80s... sometimes beyond pending some hills.
The gas temps are from gauge NOT registering to 450C with ease when pushed forcing me to back off the foot. She can and will turn the oven on harder if i dont back off.

FULL disclosure: I have searched and got a labyrinth of results and varying more than Dan Andrews' bullshit book.

Is this normal-ish for a stock donk?? Boost doesnt go beyond 13.

PS. Wife says ditch the dinosaur, we're in the 21st century and get something recent. why have monitors like a heart surgery on a nearly 20 guns old donk.

[mihit]

The gas temps are from gauge NOT registering to 450C with ease when pushed forcing me to back off the foot. She can and will turn the oven on harder if i dont back off.

FULL disclosure: I have searched and got a labyrinth of results and varying more than Dan Andrews' bullshit book.

Is this normal-ish for a stock donk?? Boost doesnt go beyond 13.

PS. Wife says ditch the dinosaur, we're in the 21st century and get something recent. why have monitors like a heart surgery on a nearly 20 guns old donk.

Come The EMP /nuke war you'll be glad you didn't ditch the old donk, and find that you can quite happily drive over all your neighbours' newfangled dead electric things while shovelling coal into the boiler...

I couldn't really comment on turbo temps, maybe MB ?
My TD42 pull uphill at ~415 degrees, Probe mounted on collector point at manifold, under heatshield, between 3&4 cyl, basically where maximum turbulence and all cylinders will be counted. If I let her lug up at low revs I can push 620, which is near piston-melting temperatures.
Turbo EGT temps will depend if pre- or post- and upside-down-sideways mounting, plumbing, and probably a few other things.
Gauge not registering suggests, mismatched thermocouple/probe type? Faulty electrics? probe wired backwards?

-edit-
my (digital) gauge reads from 0. idles at 95-110 depending on ambient, thermostat/cooling open, air filter blocked etc.

[Rossco]

Yeah I reckon I'm with the wife ditch the old bugger and get something decent like a Chinese BYD or somethig quality like that, I'll give ya 50 bucks for the GU good deal I reckon. . . When you say doesn't register on guage then keeps going up with a bit of foot what does it climb too. . General rule of thumb for TDs and EGTs is don't go over 500 for sustained periods and Max 600 for very short amount of time ideally don't go ever 550 really. . . Apart from that it all seems pretty normal I think in terms of temps.

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