View Full Version : Purchased 2010 Patrol, unknown mods
MkWangus
24th June 2023, 01:59 PM
Hey guys I just bought a Patrol and it has some mods that I cant identify like the suspension and the lights. There are some switches also that I'm not sure what they do as they appear after market.
Are front lockers also stock or is this a mod?
Spot lights and rear tyre hitch light don't work and the switches on the right of the last image appear to be for them but nothing, fuses and bulbs are intact so not sure what I'm missing.
It would be amazing if someone could please enlighten my dumb ass.
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Mcflurry
24th June 2023, 06:39 PM
Front lockers aren't standard, so if it has them it's aftermarket. Springs will be tough to identify but look to have been originally yellow so possibly King Springs, assuming you have googled the ironman foam cell shocks. Are there switches in the rear for the lights? Might be worth dropping into an auto electrician if you're not confident.
geoffayres
24th June 2023, 07:22 PM
Looks to me like the switches are for fog lights IN the bull bar, and driving lights ON the bull bar.
The rear work light probably has a switch nearby. Not legal to be able to operate rear-facing lights from the drivers seat AFAIK.
Maybe the headlights need to be ON before any of them will fire up.
I don't see anything to indicate a front locker is fitted.
Congrats on the purchase. Looks pretty good.
MkWangus
25th June 2023, 10:03 AM
thanks guys.
Not sure why the images are there so many times, I tried to remove them but its not letting me edit.
The image with the wheel is the front wheel so I'm guessing lockers are installed. The ironman foam cells look like a good comfort ride option so happy with that and the kings springs.
I'm gonna be messing with the lights later today and tracing back the wires to see if I can find a switch and ill grab my multi-meter to confirm the lights are receiving power.
Just noticed that the car has a second battery with a redarc 40a charger which is a nice surprise.
Gonna replace the intercooler as it has leaked quite a bit and is the factory pressed version so gonna replace with this one.
https://patrolapart.com.au/product/aftermarket-intercooler-for-nissan-patrol-gu-y61-zd30cr-brand-new
Thoughts?
Also has the 80k wobble so gonna have to check the various things that could be like the bearings, alignment and what not.
lastly the brakes seem very squishy so thinking of upgrading them with new rotors and braided lines.
https://patrolapart.com.au/product/premium-slotted-rotor-pad-upgrade-brake-kit-for-nissan-patrol-gu-y61
https://www.marks4wd.com/bqnpgu.html
Thoughts?
Really appreciate the help with this, my first 4x4 and I want to make a touring vehicle that will be bulletproof.
Any other suggestions on things I should look at?
Its done 210000kms if that's of any import.
geoffayres
25th June 2023, 10:28 AM
The image with the wheel shows the hub lock. Not the same as a diff lock.
The brakes might just need to be bled. Start at the LSPV (Load Sensing Proportioning Valve).
It's mounted on the chassis, drivers side, above the rear diff.
MkWangus
25th June 2023, 12:18 PM
I should also add the sub tank light is on, I've checked for fault codes but there are none. Disconnected the battery for an hour and reconnected it which fixed it but next morning it was there again.
I'm guessing the switch for the sub tank is faulty as it doesn't click when pressed just feels soft with no resistance and minimal travel and also doesn't light up. Is this normal or is the sub tank switch meant to click on and off and light up?
MkWangus
25th June 2023, 12:19 PM
The image with the wheel shows the hub lock. Not the same as a diff lock.
The brakes might just need to be bled. Start at the LSPV (Load Sensing Proportioning Valve).
It's mounted on the chassis, drivers side, above the rear diff.
ahhh its a hub lock noice thanks that helps a lot :)
Ill defs bleed the brakes, good call.
mudski
26th June 2023, 04:53 PM
I should also add the sub tank light is on, I've checked for fault codes but there are none. Disconnected the battery for an hour and reconnected it which fixed it but next morning it was there again.
I'm guessing the switch for the sub tank is faulty as it doesn't click when pressed just feels soft with no resistance and minimal travel and also doesn't light up. Is this normal or is the sub tank switch meant to click on and off and light up?
Possibly a dirty earth connection. Run another earth lead from the trans to the chassis and also clean up the other earth points on the battery and the one from the starter battery down to the chassis.
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