Michael's V8Y62

[V8Y62]

Moving away from the Introduction section of the forum here is my thread about my new, to me, car. Pearl, her new name because her paint is Ivory Pearl, is a 2019 Y62 Series 4 Ti with 61k on the clock. I drove her home yesterday and fell in love. Everything is so gentle and effortless. Pearl is quite, comfortable, HUGE (I literally looked down into 200 series Landcruisers and Pearl is standard height), and luxurious.

I am not going to go crazy with external modifications, she has a bull bar (which I do need living in a rural area where Kangaroos and Wallabies are everywhere and are part of the reason for the demise of my old car) which I will probably fit a winch to eventually but for a few years that will be most likely the limit of visible exterior modifications.

I will do small bits and pieces to the interior like sheep skin seat covers, I have dogs and I don't want the leather on the seats damaged. I must be in the minority because the fake wood grain doesn't bother me so I won't be covering it up. I will be getting a dash pad cover to make sure the sun doesn't cause problems with the dash top. I will also probably fit some KO Gear modifications that help to make the vehicle slightly more usable.

There are 2 things I will be concentrating on. In no particular order I'll be tuning the engine with HP Tuners and/or WinOLS as time permits just based on dataloging. The other things I would like to do some research on is the steering, while every make and model is slightly different and it takes a little time to get used to a different car the steering in the Y62 feels to light so I'll be looking at tyre pressures first and then researching other things.

I'll post some pictures later.
Cheers.
Michael (V8Y62)

EDIT: Posted some pictures today (7/7/23) in post #38 (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?55683-Michael-s-V8Y62&p=840352&viewfull=1#post840352)

[V8Y62]

Took the family for a drive in Pearl today. Over 3 hours driving around taking my time to get used to driving her. Now I have heard about the inaccuracy of the speedo and to be honest I didn't believe it would be as bad as people have said but it was. Let's just say I'll never get book for speeding with the speedo being out by 6 kmh when it reads 50 and at least 9 when it reads 100. At 109 kmh on the speedo you finally get to 100 kmh actual road speed. The speedo inaccuracy adds 10 minutes to a trip that normally takes me 45 minutes. To combat this I'm considering getting a GPS HUD because I can't see the speed readout on my dash cam in Pearl.

On a personal note it has been a long time since I have driven a car for more than an hour, or even up to an hour, and not ended the drive with excruciating back and leg pain being barely able to walk after driving. The only other car that I can drive for extended periods is an old VC Commodore, even the VS Commodore Pearl replaced gave me problems and don't get me started on the lack of comfort in the Getz and Troopcarrier.

In my excitement I forgot to take photos, I will get some soon.

[rusty_nail]

Took the family for a drive in Pearl today. Over 3 hours driving around taking my time to get used to driving her. Now I have heard about the inaccuracy of the speedo and to be honest I didn't believe it would be as bad as people have said but it was. Let's just say I'll never get book for speeding with the speedo being out by 6 kmh when it reads 50 and at least 9 when it reads 100. At 109 kmh on the speedo you finally get to 100 kmh actual road speed. The speedo inaccuracy adds 10 minutes to a trip that normally takes me 45 minutes. To combat this I'm considering getting a GPS HUD because I can't see the speed readout on my dash cam in Pearl.

On a personal note it has been a long time since I have driven a car for more than an hour, or even up to an hour, and not ended the drive with excruciating back and leg pain being barely able to walk after driving. The only other car that I can drive for extended periods is an old VC Commodore, even the VS Commodore Pearl replaced gave me problems and don't get me started on the lack of comfort in the Getz and Troopcarrier.

In my excitement I forgot to take photos, I will get some soon.Fwiw I'm pretty sure the Australian car standards state vehicles must read a minimum of 6% over the speed they are travelling? I guess Nissan just took the y62 a few percent further?

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[Plasnart]

Fwiw I'm pretty sure the Australian car standards state vehicles must read a minimum of 6% over the speed they are travelling? I guess Nissan just took the y62 a few percent further?

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Can you post up what standard that might be Nicco?

Personally I find the excessive speedo inaccuracy in this country bloody frustrating. We all know our speedos read way under, then it’s up to us to determine what is actually 100kmh. Get it wrong and bingo you’re paying fines.

FFS just give us accurate speedos from factory then if we modify the vehicle the fault is ours. Can’t be that hard.

[rusty_nail]

Can you post up what standard that might be Nicco?

Personally I find the excessive speedo inaccuracy in this country bloody frustrating. We all know our speedos read way under, then it’s up to us to determine what is actually 100kmh. Get it wrong and bingo you’re paying fines.

FFS just give us accurate speedos from factory then if we modify the vehicle the fault is ours. Can’t be that hard.Adr 18 I believe?

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[rusty_nail]

Can you post up what standard that might be Nicco?

Personally I find the excessive speedo inaccuracy in this country bloody frustrating. We all know our speedos read way under, then it’s up to us to determine what is actually 100kmh. Get it wrong and bingo you’re paying fines.

FFS just give us accurate speedos from factory then if we modify the vehicle the fault is ours. Can’t be that hard.I read it in an RACV mag article recently

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[V8Y62]

Fwiw I'm pretty sure the Australian car standards state vehicles must read a minimum of 6% over the speed they are travelling? I guess Nissan just took the y62 a few percent further?No it doesn't it states the allowable difference between speedo and road speed + a fudge figure. The formula for ADR 18 (as of 2006) for our vehicles is 0 ≤ (V1 – V2) ≤ 0.1 V2 + 4 km/h. V1 is speedo speed, V2 is actual speed. So 0 ≤ (100 – 91) ≤ 0.1 91 + 4 km/h can be up to 13 kmh (0.1 91 + 4 = 13.1) which is ridiculous (infact teh entire formula is ridiculous as it encourages inaccuracy +4 kmh more which adds even more inaccuracy). We are given 5% leeway on speeding tickets (go higher than 42kmh in a school zone in NSW and you are in trouble) yet we can be going as low as 86.9 kmh when our speedo reads 100 kmh.

In all honesty I've never owned a vehicle that is more than 5 kmh out and that's why it was so noticable to me and why I'm researching GPS HUDs.

[MB]

Usually sync my GQ speedo in behind an interstate B Double from a Nationwide company, their puters don’t lie [emoji23][emoji106][emoji106]


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[rusty_nail]

No it doesn't it states the allowable difference between speedo and road speed + a fudge figure. The formula for ADR 18 (as of 2006) for our vehicles is 0 ≤ (V1 – V2) ≤ 0.1 V2 + 4 km/h. V1 is speedo speed, V2 is actual speed. So 0 ≤ (100 – 91) ≤ 0.1 91 + 4 km/h can be up to 13 kmh (0.1 91 + 4 = 13.1) which is ridiculous (infact teh entire formula is ridiculous as it encourages inaccuracy +4 kmh more which adds even more inaccuracy). We are given 5% leeway on speeding tickets (go higher than 42kmh in a school zone in NSW and you are in trouble) yet we can be going as low as 86.9 kmh when our speedo reads 100 kmh.

In all honesty I've never owned a vehicle that is more than 5 kmh out and that's why it was so noticable to me and why I'm researching GPS HUDs.Yeah mate I get it, I'm actually driving a new SsangYong ATM and the speedo reads similar to yours so I feel your pain. I just run off the android auto Speedo and it's all gravy

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[MB]

How many kilometres per miles until you Blokes run out of fuel? [emoji23]


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[MB]

AKA……..learn your own Twucks, Possible Discrepancies [emoji3590][emoji3590][emoji736][emoji736][emoji106][emoji106]


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[Plasnart]

Adr 18 I believe?

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Just had a look at that and in a nutshell I think it says a speedo shall not read a speed less than the true speed of the vehicle, and at 100kmh should not read more than 4.4 kmh above 100kmh.

If my interpretation of Clause 5.3 is correct of course. Or have I got that back-to-front? I've had had a couple!



86903

[MB]

Fark Dat.Son…….go for Gold Plassy you BookWorm [emoji23][emoji23]


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[Plasnart]

Fark Dat.Son…….go for Gold Plassy you BookWorm [emoji23][emoji23]


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It’s what I do now shut up! :D

PS… luv ya mate!

[MB]

Apologies Mick Mate [emoji120][emoji106][emoji106]
Can Plassy keep on Rocking on [emoji120][emoji120][emoji120][emoji120][emoji120][emoji120][emoji120][emoji120][emoji120]


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[Plasnart]

So now I have 295/70/18 ATs on my Y62 and at 100kmh my speedo reads about 103-104kmh.

Can’t remember what the factory wheels and rims read but must have been pretty close.

About 10 years ago I had a Navara Ute that read about 10kmh below actual speed at 100kmh (90-92kmh)! That was bad!

[Plasnart]

So now I have 295/70/18 ATs on my Y62 and at 100kmh my speedo reads about 103-104kmh.

Can’t remember what the factory wheels and rims read but must have been pretty close.

About 10 years ago I had a Navara Ute that read about 10kmh below actual speed at 100kmh (90-92kmh)! That was bad!

Actually I stuffed this up. The speedo is now more accurate than when I had the factory tyres and rims on. It was probably about 8kmh over reading from factory.

[Brissieboy]

<snip> and at 100kmh should not read more than 4.4 kmh above 100kmh. <snip>

Not true by my calculations.
Using that rule, with your true speed at 100KPH your speedo can read anything from 100 to 114KPH (basically 10% +4KPH) and comply with the ADR.
Or put another way: with your speedo reading 100KPH your true speed could be anywhere from 87.3 to 100KPH.

[Plasnart]

Not true by my calculations.
Using that rule, with your true speed at 100KPH your speedo can read anything from 100 to 114KPH (basically 10% +4KPH) and comply with the ADR.
Or put another way: with your speedo reading 100KPH your true speed could be anywhere from 87.3 to 100KPH.

Happy to be corrected mate. That’s crazy isn’t it? Really shouldn’t be that variance in factory spec cars.

[V8Y62]

I have ordered a HP Tuners MPVI3 dongle which will hopefully arrive on Friday. Pearl will be my daily driver for the next 3 weeks so I will do some dataloging and post progress here and on YouTube, like a tutorial, so others can try it if they feel brave enough. Initially going to use VCM Suite and possibly Race Render on my Panasonic CF-31 Toughbook until I get, and it could take a long time, a newer FZ-40 Toughbook or a Toughbook tablet.

[Plasnart]

I have ordered a HP Tuners MPVI3 dongle which will hopefully arrive on Friday. Pearl will be my daily driver for the next 3 weeks so I will do some dataloging and post progress here and on YouTube, like a tutorial, so others can try it if they feel brave enough. Initially going to use VCM Suite and possibly Race Render on my Panasonic CF-31 Toughbook until I get, and it could take a long time, a newer FZ-40 Toughbook or a Toughbook tablet.

Holy smokes mate, what is it about your daily driving that others may need bravery to try it? And the FZ-40 Toughbook that you aspire to is military standard fully IP66 rated laptop hardware. Would love to read all about your daily drive.

[V8Y62]

Holy smokes mate, what is it about your daily driving that others may need bravery to try it? And the FZ-40 Toughbook that you aspire to is military standard fully IP66 rated laptop hardware. Would love to read all about your daily drive.I've been tuning cars for years and was able to get into it because someone taught me how to do it. I live in NSW they live in WA and they could show me how to do it. Tuning EFI cars is not like tuning carby cars that can be quite forgiving. Get something wrong tuning an EFI car, especially modern EFI, and you can brick the ECU and a myriad of other high tech componentry so many people are turned off trying it for themselves because they don't know how to do it and are wary of trying it.

I have a few Toughbooks and I use them because it is the fav computer in the automotive industry. I have CF-29s, CF-30, CF-31, and a CF-D1. There are some FZ-40 units on 2nd hand markets now but prices are still high. Prices will drop when more come on the 2nd hand market and availability increases.

My daily drive is boring. Home to work, work to home in the glorious NSW Hunter Valley :wink: The exciting thing to be looking for is the datalogues.

[V8Y62]

Yeah mate I get it, I'm actually driving a new SsangYong ATM and the speedo reads similar to yours so I feel your pain. I just run off the android auto Speedo and it's all gravy

Sent from my SM-G988B using TapatalkI meant to reply to you but forgot, better late than never though. I hadn't even considered Android Auto. I'll have a tinker around on the weekend, if it saves me buying a HUD it is probably worth it.

[rusty_nail]

I meant to reply to you but forgot, better late than never though. I hadn't even considered Android Auto. I'll have a tinker around on the weekend, if it saves me buying a HUD it is probably worth it.Waze displays the speed by default whilst just "driving" with no direction but there are a plethora of apps that work with AA also. You could also consider the hud reflector, using your phone as the HUD with something like Digi HUD which has a reflection mode and having it plugged in to AA to keep Waze or similar running. Endless possibilities

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[BrazilianY60]

I vouch for DigiHUD as well. I use it a lot and like that you can match the instrument cluster color.

[rusty_nail]

I vouch for DigiHUD as well. I use it a lot and like that you can match the instrument cluster color.I drive many many different trucks for work, all in various states of disrepair. I use digihud in all of them as I've found some Speedos are either very innacurate or intermittently don't work at all. Digihud keeps my licensee safe when the employer(there have been several, that) don't care.

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[V8Y62]

Filled Pearl up today and did some quick calculations. 14.74 litres/100 kms or 19.16 mpg in the old language. I think that's pretty good for what she is. It's a good baseline to start with.

[BrazilianY60]

That is an impressive 8.15 Km/L mark for a 5600 engine. I very seldom do 8 Km/L highway on my 4500, most of the time its on the 7 mark. And (very dense) city traffic 4~4.5 Km/L is all I get.

[V8Y62]

I live in a rural area but travel through towns and suburbs to get to work. Not alot of stop start traffic but I'm gentle on the throttle on take off anyway because it really doesn't take much to get Pearl moving. Taking my current, it changes often as I'm a casual, workplace into account I average approximately 70kmh.

[V8Y62]

During the last week I have taken some datalogs of Pearl and taken a look at them. HP Tuners does support the VK56 engine but there are a few things within VCM Suite (VCM Editor and VCM Scanner) that are not setup correctly and it is taking a bit of time to find the right settings for our V8 engines. There are many parameters in the gauge screen of VCM Scanner that don't function and they don't function because their settings are wrong. I am slowly working through them and will send a message to HP Tuners so they can update the dongles so that scanning, and then tuning, will be easier.

Things I have noticed viewing the datalogs are:
1. Pearl rarely goes over 1600 rpm, with the occasional 3000 rpm foray when overtaking or on cruise control going up a steep hill at 100 kmh (actual not speedo).
2. Timing is set extremely high at cruise speed, 48-51 degrees btdc is not uncommon in the datalogs which makes me think there is not a lot of room to move with timing to gain more performance and economy.
3. On decel timing can go as low as -7 degrees (7 degrees atdc) idle timing is around 15 degrees btdc which is fairly normal for modern engines.
4. STFT runs between 0.2 and 6%. My intent is to try and get it to under 2% across the board.
5. LTFT on VCM Scanner shows 3 digit numbers, 420 comes up often. I reset it to % and it is hovering about 6% which is way to high.
6. The MAF is a voltage based MAF. As a comparison GM use Frequency based MAFs so rescaling the MAF, to get the ST and LT FTs back under 2%, is different to what I am used to. What makes it even more difficult is VCM Suite doesn't seem, atm, to have settings for the voltage based MAF. This is my priority at this time.
7. VCM suite doesn't have many settings for the automatic which I find disappointing. While the auto is great and extremely smooth I am well aware the torque converter locks and unlocks alot. In Toyota 200 series forcing the converter to stay locked for longer and locking earlier saves alot of wear and tear on the trans and helps them to run cooler. While I am not towing it is not much of an issue so I am interested in other peoples experiences when towing.

EDIT: My FB page for my projects https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100089631151497

[Plasnart]

During the last week I have taken some datalogs of Pearl and taken a look at them. HP Tuners does support the VK56 engine but there are a few things within VCM Suite (VCM Editor and VCM Scanner) that are not setup correctly and it is taking a bit of time to find the right settings for our V8 engines. There are many parameters in the gauge screen of VCM Scanner that don't function and they don't function because their settings are wrong. I am slowly working through them and will send a message to HP Tuners so they can update the dongles so that scanning, and then tuning, will be easier.

Things I have noticed viewing the datalogs are:
1. Pearl rarely goes over 1600 rpm, with the occasional 3000 rpm foray when overtaking or on cruise control going up a steep hill at 100 kmh (actual not speedo).
2. Timing is set extremely high at cruise speed, 48-51 degrees btdc is not uncommon in the datalogs which makes me think there is not a lot of room to move with timing to gain more performance and economy.
3. On decel timing can go as low as -7 degrees (7 degrees atdc) idle timing is around 15 degrees btdc which is fairly normal for modern engines.
4. STFT runs between 0.2 and 6%. My intent is to try and get it to under 2% across the board.
5. LTFT on VCM Scanner shows 3 digit numbers, 420 comes up often. I reset it to % and it is hovering about 6% which is way to high.
6. The MAF is a voltage based MAF. As a comparison GM use Frequency based MAFs so rescaling the MAF, to get the ST and LT FTs back under 2%, is different to what I am used to. What makes it even more difficult is VCM Suite doesn't seem, atm, to have settings for the voltage based MAF. This is my priority at this time.
7. VCM suite doesn't have many settings for the automatic which I find disappointing. While the auto is great and extremely smooth I am well aware the torque converter locks and unlocks alot. In Toyota 200 series forcing the converter to stay locked for longer and locking earlier saves alot of wear and tear on the trans and helps them to run cooler. While I am not towing it is not much of an issue so I am interested in other peoples experiences when towing.

EDIT: My FB page for my projects https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100089631151497

All very interesting mate, but really this sort of stuff is above my head. Of your points above though, a couple of questions:

Point 1.. I find it hard to believe you drive a VK56 and rarely exceed 1600rpm. The pleasure of hearing that puppy sing at 3-4k rpm is worth the fuel outlay! :)

Points 4 & 5: So many things can affect the fuel trim (the long term I suppose is more interesting). But what exactly does the percentage indicate? I.e. what is the 6% figure a reflection of? And why is 6% way too high?

Point 6: Adjusting the MAF will obviously have a bearing on your fuel trim. Do you know, or is there a factory standard setting, frequency, voltage or whatever? How do you know the MAF is working per design specs?

Do you have the factory exhaust system still fitted? There are 4 x O2 sensors in the exhaust system. Each side has one located pre-cat and one post-cat. It is my understanding only the pre-cat sensors have the authority to alter fuel trim. The rear sensors are for error coding only. If you have an aftermarket exhaust system installed, and have subsequently altered the O2 sensor offset from the exhaust flow, you could negatively affect the fuel trim via changed sensor configuration from factory design parameters.

Edit: the aftermarket exhaust system comment really only relates to an aftermarket cat replacement, not a cat-back exhaust replacement. I have aftermarket high-flow cats still in the shed until I pluck up the courage to mess with the O2 sensors!

Cheers.

[V8Y62]

Point 1.. I find it hard to believe you drive a VK56 and rarely exceed 1600rpm. The pleasure of hearing that puppy sing at 3-4k rpm is worth the fuel outlay! :)I have done 1 1/4 mile drag test and heard the induction roar and exhaust rumble making a beautiful cacophony of ICE noise. I actually took my foot off at about 1/8 mile because the steering felt to loose to continue safely. The steering was one of the things I first noted in this thread and while I am getting used to it I still think it is to light.


Points 4 & 5: So many things can affect the fuel trim (the long term I suppose is more interesting). But what exactly does the percentage indicate? I.e. what is the 6% figure a reflection of? And why is 6% way too high?The % indicates what the ECU is doing with regards to fuel, it will either take it out or add more in. Normal petrol, not ethanol blend, has an "optimum" (Stoichometric) AFR (Air Fuel Ratio) of 14.7-1, E10 is 14.08-1, LPG (Propane) is 15.5-1. There is another scale that tuners use called Lambda and it doesn't matter what the fuel is the optimum Lambda is always 1.00. The ECU calculates how much fuel is required based on inputs from the various sensors, with all else (e.g engine is at operating temp, ambient air temps are "normal", intake air temps are "normal", oil temp is at operating temp, etc etc etc) being equal on a MAF system the MAF tells the ECU how much air is going into the engine in grams per second (g/s). The ECU then calculates how much fuel to inject and then gets told by the O2 sensors if it injected the right amount or to much or not enough. The % is an indication of the difference between Lambda 1.00 and what the O2 sensors report back to the ECU and on the new information the ECU "trims" the fuel by the % difference. If the O2 sensors report 0.94 (which is rich) then the ECU needs to remove 6% fuel, if the O2 sensors report 1.06 (which is lean) the ECU needs to add 6% more fuel. Scaling the MAF to get fuel trims to within 2% means changing the reference values (g/s) so that the fuel trim is more accurate to within 2%.


Point 6: Adjusting the MAF will obviously have a bearing on your fuel trim. Do you know, or is there a factory standard setting, frequency, voltage or whatever? How do you know the MAF is working per design specs? Brilliant question. So the VK56 has a system that uses MAF and also MAP. When tuning MAF the MAP system must be turned off and vice versa so one does not influence the other during tuning. How do I, personally, know the MAF is working per design specs? If it isn't it would trip a fault code and the dash should alert me to this with the CEL (Check Engine Light). The thing with all this though is manufacturers specs cover a huge range of tolerances, some of these are there for a reason 1 being the catalytic converters require fuel to cycle a couple of percent either side of stoichometric to help the cats burn off and not deteriorate prematurely. Generally 2% variation either side of stoichometric is the maximum required for a cat to work efficiently and have a long service life. If the variation is more than 5% the cats burn up, break down, crumble and block exhaust systems.


Do you have the factory exhaust system still fitted? There are 4 x O2 sensors in the exhaust system. Each side has one located pre-cat and one post-cat. It is my understanding only the pre-cat sensors have the authority to alter fuel trim. The rear sensors are for error coding only. If you have an aftermarket exhaust system installed, and have subsequently altered the O2 sensor offset from the exhaust flow, you could negatively affect the fuel trim via changed sensor configuration from factory design parameters.Pearl is bog stock in everyway. As soon as anything is changed on the intake or exhaust of an EFI engine the fuel trims will change, the change may not be much but there will be a change anyway. I am aware of the 4 sensors, most modern cars that are Euro 4 and above spec have 2 sensors per cat. The first is to control the fuel trim and the 2nd is to make sure the cats are functioning as required.


Edit: the aftermarket exhaust system comment really only relates to an aftermarket cat replacement, not a cat-back exhaust replacement. I have aftermarket high-flow cats still in the shed until I pluck up the courage to mess with the O2 sensors!Actually the greatest effect on an engine from an exhaust system is the increase or reduction of back pressure. Reducing back pressure generally causes an engine to run leaner until the ECU adjusts the LTFT to accommodate the change. My intent with Pearl is to work through all these things in a logical scientific manner so that people can see if the difference a modification makes it worthwhile for performance and/or economy reasons rather than just having a nice sound. I should probably say I have a genuine HDT Commodore and had a genuine 1977 Bandit Trans Am. I love the sound of a V8 at WOT (especially the roar of a Quadrajet at WOT) or even just burbling along (the HDT Commodore has the nicest exhaust note I have ever heard at cruise) but I see young fellas throw on huge systems that are loud yet the engine is no more efficient than a smaller system that costs alot less.

[Plasnart]

I have done 1 1/4 mile drag test and heard the induction roar and exhaust rumble making a beautiful cacophony of ICE noise. I actually took my foot off at about 1/8 mile because the steering felt to loose to continue safely. The steering was one of the things I first noted in this thread and while I am getting used to it I still think it is to light.

The % indicates what the ECU is doing with regards to fuel, it will either take it out or add more in. Normal petrol, not ethanol blend, has an "optimum" (Stoichometric) AFR (Air Fuel Ratio) of 14.7-1, E10 is 14.08-1, LPG (Propane) is 15.5-1. There is another scale that tuners use called Lambda and it doesn't matter what the fuel is the optimum Lambda is always 1.00. The ECU calculates how much fuel is required based on inputs from the various sensors, with all else (e.g engine is at operating temp, ambient air temps are "normal", intake air temps are "normal", oil temp is at operating temp, etc etc etc) being equal on a MAF system the MAF tells the ECU how much air is going into the engine in grams per second (g/s). The ECU then calculates how much fuel to inject and then gets told by the O2 sensors if it injected the right amount or to much or not enough. The % is an indication of the difference between Lambda 1.00 and what the O2 sensors report back to the ECU and on the new information the ECU "trims" the fuel by the % difference. If the O2 sensors report 0.94 (which is rich) then the ECU needs to remove 6% fuel, if the O2 sensors report 1.06 (which is lean) the ECU needs to add 6% more fuel. Scaling the MAF to get fuel trims to within 2% means changing the reference values (g/s) so that the fuel trim is more accurate to within 2%.

Brilliant question. So the VK56 has a system that uses MAF and also MAP. When tuning MAF the MAP system must be turned off and vice versa so one does not influence the other during tuning. How do I, personally, know the MAF is working per design specs? If it isn't it would trip a fault code and the dash should alert me to this with the CEL (Check Engine Light). The thing with all this though is manufacturers specs cover a huge range of tolerances, some of these are there for a reason 1 being the catalytic converters require fuel to cycle a couple of percent either side of stoichometric to help the cats burn off and not deteriorate prematurely. Generally 2% variation either side of stoichometric is the maximum required for a cat to work efficiently and have a long service life. If the variation is more than 5% the cats burn up, break down, crumble and block exhaust systems.

Pearl is bog stock in everyway. As soon as anything is changed on the intake or exhaust of an EFI engine the fuel trims will change, the change may not be much but there will be a change anyway. I am aware of the 4 sensors, most modern cars that are Euro 4 and above spec have 2 sensors per cat. The first is to control the fuel trim and the 2nd is to make sure the cats are functioning as required.

Actually the greatest effect on an engine from an exhaust system is the increase or reduction of back pressure. Reducing back pressure generally causes an engine to run leaner until the ECU adjusts the LTFT to accommodate the change. My intent with Pearl is to work through all these things in a logical scientific manner so that people can see if the difference a modification makes it worthwhile for performance and/or economy reasons rather than just having a nice sound. I should probably say I have a genuine HDT Commodore and had a genuine 1977 Bandit Trans Am. I love the sound of a V8 at WOT (especially the roar of a Quadrajet at WOT) or even just burbling along (the HDT Commodore has the nicest exhaust note I have ever heard at cruise) but I see young fellas throw on huge systems that are loud yet the engine is no more efficient than a smaller system that costs alot less.

Great stuff Michael. Really, really interesting what you're doing. Looking forward to further updates.

And yes for what it's worth I also (along with nearly every other Y62 review I've read or watched) think the steering is far too light at cruising speed.

[BrazilianY60]

This topic is undoubtedly interesting but show us picture addicts some of your Y62 pictures pleeease!

:gossip:

[V8Y62]

This topic is undoubtedly interesting but show us picture addicts some of your Y62 pictures pleeease!

:gossip:I apologise for my artistic tardiness. I have 2 weeks holiday coming up and will try to upload a couple of pics of Pearl in her raw stock as a rock beauty.

[MB]

Safe Travels Mick Brother [emoji120][emoji120][emoji106][emoji106]
Pictures Later Pretty Please [emoji3590][emoji3590][emoji123][emoji123]


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[V8Y62]

Safe Travels Mick Brother [emoji120][emoji120][emoji106][emoji106]
Pictures Later Pretty Please [emoji3590][emoji3590][emoji123][emoji123]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for the well wishes MB I'm staying home this holiday so I can work on various projects including Pearl. Actually I haven't had an "away" holiday for 17 years, last time I went away was to 1770 in QLD and did some 4wding around K'gari (Fraser Island), 1770, and Bundaberg.

[V8Y62]

Ladies and Gentlemen please let me introduce Pearl, my gorgeous Y62.

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I did promise pics and here they are.

To say I love this car is an understatement

Today I created a Google Sheets fuel economy spreadsheet. I have filled Pearl twice and fuel economy works out at 14.7 (approx) litres/100km, 19 (approx) MPG, and 6.7-6.8 (approx) km/litre.

I have create a few wish lists / shopping carts on KO gear, Dash Offroad, and a few other online shops. I don;t get paid for another 4 weeks so I'm getting ready for when I have regualr income again.

[BrazilianY60]

What a good looking Patrol mate, congratulations!
The bullbar fits it really nice. OL brand? I will have to look that up.
Were the taillights like this from the factory? Looks like those fancy "euro-style" upgrades.

Found a Nissan Armada with that V8 on a wrecker over here and started wondering it that would fit a GQ or GU, LOL. But the asking price made me stop wonder, thankfully!

[V8Y62]

The bullbar fits it really nice. OL brand? I will have to look that up.OL stands for Opposite Lock. https://oppositelock.com.au/ol/

Were the taillights like this from the factory? Looks like those fancy "euro-style" upgrades.Yes they are actually factory. I don't know why but I never liked them, actually I never like the rear of the Y62, until I bought Pearl.

Found a Nissan Armada with that V8 on a wrecker over here and started wondering it that would fit a GQ or GU, LOL. But the asking price made me stop wonder, thankfully!Brand new crate engines are approximately AU$14K depending on who you buy them from over here. I don't know how much wreckers are charging for them but it wouldn't be cheap. I'd like to eventually get a set of cylinder heads and do some testing on them to see what they flow.

[V8Y62]

I haven't forgotten about this forum just haven't had much time to do devote to the internet.

To sum up the last month with Pearl we have been out a each weekend for a day trip and I have driven her to work twice a week. I am getting to know the various features she has over time. Took Pearl out today before fuel prices rise by 40 cents per litre to fill her up and do a family day out. Filled up with E10 near the Vineyards at Pokolbin for 183.5 Newcastle prices rose to over $2.20 yesterday and much of the rest of the Hunter Valley went up this morning. Checked the trip metre and had done 399 km and used 59.29 litres which gives me 14.108 litres/100 km (or 20.023 MPG in the old language). I am extremely happy with this.

Also bought a trunk boots mats liner (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/114656031074?var=414821963323) for the rear of Pearl. I will be fitting it tomorrow.

[V8Y62]

I thought I'd also mention that I filled 5 Jerry cans with 100 litres of fuel and put them securely in the back of Pearl. There was a noticeable difference in how Pearl handled with the extra weight of the 5 full Jerry cans. I imagine it would be much worse with a long range tank if there is no change to the suspension. So I am researching suspension modifications for both front (because I have the bull bar) and rear (because I eventually want to fit a long range tank). I am thinking of height adjustable air bags for the rear and slightly increased load capacity front springs.

[Plasnart]

I thought I'd also mention that I filled 5 Jerry cans with 100 litres of fuel and put them securely in the back of Pearl. There was a noticeable difference in how Pearl handled with the extra weight of the 5 full Jerry cans. I imagine it would be much worse with a long range tank if there is no change to the suspension. So I am researching suspension modifications for both front (because I have the bull bar) and rear (because I eventually want to fit a long range tank). I am thinking of height adjustable air bags for the rear and slightly increased load capacity front springs.

I haven’t reset my economy reading for about 6 months and it sits at 15.6l/100. This is probably over 50% around town driving too. Your 14.1l/100 figure is around what I get mostly highway driving.

Will be interested to hear what you choose with regards to front and rear suspension for added loads. I chose heavier progressive-rate springs in my Y61 due to my personal belief of having the springs work harder, not the chassis, but the Y62 is an entirely different suspension setup so I haven’t done anything to the factory setup yet (I also haven’t modified or loaded this one as much as the Y61).

I installed an Opposite Lock bullbar on my Y62 and although it has not exceeded maximum permitted loading to the front end, it noticeably affected the performance of the front suspension through corners. It’s a fantastic bullbar however and I’m happy with its aesthetics and protection and will be interested in your front end upgrades and feedback.

[V8Y62]

I haven’t reset my economy reading for about 6 months and it sits at 15.6l/100. This is probably over 50% around town driving too. Your 14.1l/100 figure is around what I get mostly highway driving.I do some stop start driving but not alot, most of my driving is steady speed from 40-100kmh and gentle acceleration.


Will be interested to hear what you choose with regards to front and rear suspension for added loads. I chose heavier progressive-rate springs in my Y61 due to my personal belief of having the springs work harder, not the chassis, but the Y62 is an entirely different suspension setup so I haven’t done anything to the factory setup yet (I also haven’t modified or loaded this one as much as the Y61).To a certain extent I agree with your feelings about setting up a suspension and yes the Y62 is a totaly differnt beast compared to a GU/GQ (or live axle Toyotas like my 75 series Troopy). For the rears I think I'll save up for airbags with automatic ride height adjustments. After doing some reading after my last post I don't know what I'm going to do with the front apart from more research.


I installed an Opposite Lock bullbar on my Y62 and although it has not exceeded maximum permitted loading to the front end, it noticeably affected the performance of the front suspension through corners. It’s a fantastic bullbar however and I’m happy with its aesthetics and protection and will be interested in your front end upgrades and feedback.It will take some planning, I also want to fit a winch and don't want to go through this twice. I'll keep posting my thoughts and look forward to your input.

[Plasnart]

I do some stop start driving but not alot, most of my driving is steady speed from 40-100kmh and gentle acceleration.

To a certain extent I agree with your feelings about setting up a suspension and yes the Y62 is a totaly differnt beast compared to a GU/GQ (or live axle Toyotas like my 75 series Troopy). For the rears I think I'll save up for airbags with automatic ride height adjustments. After doing some reading after my last post I don't know what I'm going to do with the front apart from more research.

It will take some planning, I also want to fit a winch and don't want to go through this twice. I'll keep posting my thoughts and look forward to your input.

My only comment really is regards to your requirement for an electric winch. I have had winches for years and only ever used one for recovery on four occasions. Twice were hand winch recoveries before I had an electric winch, and twice with an electric winch. So that's 4 times in 17 years of 4x4ing I've needed winch recovery. No, I'm not into "extreme" offroading but have done a lot of advanced tracks I suppose you could say and evidently nearly every time I could work myself out of the predicament without a winch. I don't plan to install one into the Y62.

[BrazilianY60]

100 litres of fuel is less then 100kg, so I would say it equals the weight of a passenger. Wouldn't it be too much to consider upgrading the suspension over "one extra passenger"?

[V8Y62]

100 litres of fuel is less then 100kg, so I would say it equals the weight of a passenger. Wouldn't it be too much to consider upgrading the suspension over "one extra passenger"? It works out to be around 70 extra kilograms but it was a very noticable difference in vehicle handling. The issue is probably also linked to where the weight was, behind the 3 row seats, and as such I do think I need to research it and do something because if it has a drastic change for 100 litres what will it do with 150+ litres if I fit a long range tank and add more weight by towing. It may just need a wheel alignment to sort it out but if I don't research it I will never know. Ah the joys of getting used to a new, to me, vehicle.

[V8Y62]

My only comment really is regards to your requirement for an electric winch. I have had winches for years and only ever used one for recovery on four occasions. Twice were hand winch recoveries before I had an electric winch, and twice with an electric winch. So that's 4 times in 17 years of 4x4ing I've needed winch recovery. No, I'm not into "extreme" offroading but have done a lot of advanced tracks I suppose you could say and evidently nearly every time I could work myself out of the predicament without a winch. I don't plan to install one into the Y62.I totally understand your point. I've owned a 4wd for 22 years now and have never had anything but a hand winch as well. My front paddock is about 10 acres and I took my old wagon in there a couple of years ago to get some fallen timber out for the slow combustion fire in the house. It got bogged due to La Nina bucketing H2O down. Anyway the only way I could get my old Commodore Wagon out was to snatch it out with my VC Commodore with over 100 metres of straps to join the two vehicles.

[MudRunnerTD]

I am a fan of the airbag replacement coil delete on the back of these. It just makes sense. Infinitely variable continuously adjusting the ride height to the optimum postion for exact Wheel alignment. Adjusts as you use fuel, adjsuts as you take and offload passengers, etc, etc,. Given the wheel alignment is so fickle with these the rear tyre scrubbing is a big deal if you are towing constantly. This is 100% the way i will go on the 62.

I have not done anything to the front springs for the Rhino bar and Runva winch yet, it seems ok at this point. The winch has Plasma rope and the Battery was swapped out for a DCS80 Lithum so that cgave me back some wieght.

[V8Y62]

This is 100% the way i will go on the 62.I agree they do seem to be the ultimate option for vehicles that are used for towing, which I will eventually do. What system are you looking at using for your automatic height control?

[V8Y62]

I can't help myself. I just bought a Tactrix OpenPort 2.0 and adaptors so I can try to rip the raw binary file of the ECU ROM.

And my other news for the week, I broke my right hand yesterday.Actually my horse is responsible but that's another matter. I have put a hot rodders splint (an old lead pencil) on the broken digit, its actually the bone in the hand(metacarpal) that leads to the finger that's broken, and strapped to the fingers next to it with masking tape until I can get to a chemist to get a proper splint and some elastoplast.

[Plasnart]

I can't help myself. I just bought a Tactrix OpenPort 2.0 and adaptors so I can try to rip the raw binary file of the ECU ROM.

And my other news for the week, I broke my right hand yesterday.Actually my horse is responsible but that's another matter. I have put a hot rodders splint (an old lead pencil) on the broken digit, its actually the bone in the hand(metacarpal) that leads to the finger that's broken, and strapped to the fingers next to it with masking tape until I can get to a chemist to get a proper splint and some elastoplast.

Keep us posted how you go with the data, and what you can do with it.

There’s a few horse disaster stories scattered over time on this forum so you’ve added to that collection too now. Very expensive and dangerous toys mate!

[V8Y62]

Keep us posted how you go with the data, and what you can do with it.I will, it was posted yesterday, 3 days after purchase so I doubt it will be here before this weekend but I will have a play with it as soon as I can.


There’s a few horse disaster stories scattered over time on this forum so you’ve added to that collection too now. Very expensive and dangerous toys mate!They are expensive and dangerous but I have had my old girl for 26 years now, she is 30 years old now, and this is the 1st time she has hurt me.

[V8Y62]

Today I successfully read the ROM off Pearl's ECU. The file has been uploaded to github (https://github.com/Michael-AU/Nissan/tree/main) so people can assist with hacking it so we can tune our VK56VD engines to their full ability.

I have started a dedicated thread for thi (https://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?55938-Hacking-the-VK56VD-engine-ROM&p=841863#post841863)s so that anyone interested can assist.