Gu drag link replacement?

[Wizard52]

Hi all. Long time since I have asked a question although I have been lurking regularly.

The rubber bushes/boots at each end of draglink on my son's ute are cracked and need replacing.
He almost dropped his beer when quoted stupid prices for the whole draglink instead just the rubber boots. As usual Nissan were the dearest but Pedders and Fulcrum were not cheap either.
A backward step by Nissan from greasable front end on GQ's.
Has anyone a better option?

cheers

[MudRunnerTD]

No Way i would fit an OEM Drag link Ever mate.

A Superior or Roadsafe brand Chromoly in 4140 with female tie rod ends for the win. It is the most exposed item on the car for impact and the factory is piss-weak.

Something like this

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/292719213993?epid=13005123926&hash=item44276cbda9:g:aQsAAOSwx3dblNQO

https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=gU+draglink&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=GQ+draglink&_osacat=0

[Hodge]

As Mudrunner said. Get something decent while you're at it. Anything compared to OEM is stronger. I opted for the superior link. Bees knees.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/07/197.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/07/198.jpg

[Wizard52]

Back again with update.
Existing drag link is in good condition so does not need to be replaced. It only the cracked rubber boots which will cost $10 from Superior Engineering.
Pays to shop around.

[BrazilianY60]

I have always thought this was the steering link and the drag-link was the wheel to wheel one (or rather, knuckle to knuckle).

[MudRunnerTD]

I have always thought this was the steering link and the drag-link was the wheel to wheel one (or rather, knuckle to knuckle).

No the link behind the diff from knuckle to knuckle is the Tie Rod (Ties the hubs together?)

The Drag Link is in front ans goes from the Steering Box to the left side swivel hub and "Drags" the wheels in either direction using the steering wheel and steering box.

[MudRunnerTD]

Back again with update.
Existing drag link is in good condition so does not need to be replaced. It only the cracked rubber boots which will cost $10 from Superior Engineering.
Pays to shop around.

Yes indeed. You will get the grease boot for a tie rod end at any Auto shop (Repco, supercheap, autopro) will all sell the. For $10 or so. Nice to have a spare.

For my money though the first link I changed on both the GQ and the GU was the Drag Link and the Tie Rod as they are both Very exposed and the Drag link is the first thing to hit something. If the tiered end is knackered then don't replace the end, junk the whole thing.

If he is flat out not using rhe car offroad then go the boot for sure. If he has a head shake replace rhe rod end. If he wants to do some tougher tracks junk it and go chromoly 100%.

[Wizard52]

Yes indeed. You will get the grease boot for a tie rod end at any Auto shop (Repco, supercheap, autopro) will all sell the. For $10 or so. Nice to have a spare.

For my money though the first link I changed on both the GQ and the GU was the Drag Link and the Tie Rod as they are both Very exposed and the Drag link is the first thing to hit something. If the tiered end is knackered then don't replace the end, junk the whole thing.

If he is flat out not using rhe car offroad then go the boot for sure. If he has a head shake replace rhe rod end. If he wants to do some tougher tracks junk it and go chromoly 100%.

Ute is his work vehicle as a painter (and decorator as I remind him) and we only go fishing to Fraser etc so no rock climbing or mud etc.