TB42 Ballast wiring

[JLHMAV]

Hey everyone, i have a Maverick TB42 SWB Carb model. I have purchased the pertronix module to convert from points. The hall effect type with the magnet. Just in regard to the wiring up side of things, i believe i need to go negative from the pertronix to neg on my coil, and positive from the pertronix to the white wire on my ballast resistor- however, on my vehicle there is only 2 bridged red wires on one side of the ballast, and nothing on the other side. There is a white/black stripe wire coming from somewhere (haven't traced back yet) that goes onto the positive of my coil. Wondering where i should put the positive lead from the pertronix to? The coil is a GT40 equivalent

[mudnut]

I have read that the coils with an R in their part number run on approximately 9volts and require ballast resistor. Those without an a R designation need 12volts to operate.(hopefully this can be confirmed by someone in the know). It looks as if the previous owner has deleted the resistor for the GT40 equivalent. You need to establish from the supplier whether this coil is compatible with the petronix system or whether you need to run one that uses the resistor, which might reduce the current.

[JLHMAV]

Its confirmed the ballast has been bypassed, so i think i will order the flamethrower coil from pertronix, just not sure what to do with red wires on the ballast, and the white/black/green wire going to + on my current coil

[MB]

G’day JLHMAV Mate [emoji106][emoji106]
Photos below of our little TB45 dropped into a TB42 SWB Maverick with Petronix Ignitor both installed by previous owner.
Runs somewhat Ok 95% of the time off tow in colder climates shorter runs but completely spazzes out like old school cooked points somehow if towing and off tow also only in warmer/hotter climate’s over distance and gets worse with highway time we’ve unfortunately found recently [emoji26]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/06/50.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/06/51.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/06/52.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/06/53.jpg

I am a complete electrical nuffy but it appears in regards your query that Petronix (-) to GT40R type (-) connection and (+) Petronix to Ballast resistor is what has been done on ours.
Could possibly be that ours is completely wrong linked backed to TD42 OEM wires and causing the issues we experience, keen to learn too please Brothers [emoji120][emoji120]


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[mudnut]

On the wiring diagram for 1988 models Haynes page 12-14. It shows that the red wires give the original coil a 12volt feed to start. If it was my vehicle, I would just leave them, just in case you want return it to stock or you find that one day all you can get is an R designated coil to get home with.

[mudnut]

G’day JLHMAV Mate [emoji106][emoji106]
Photos below of our little TB45 dropped into a TB42 SWB Maverick with Petronix Ignitor both installed by previous owner.
Runs somewhat Ok 95% of the time off tow in colder climates shorter runs but completely spazzes out like old school cooked points somehow if towing and off tow also only in warmer/hotter climate’s over distance and gets worse with highway time we’ve unfortunately found recently [emoji26]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/06/50.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/06/51.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/06/52.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/06/53.jpg

I am a complete electrical nuffy but it appears in regards your query that Petronix (-) to GT40R type (-) connection and (+) Petronix to Ballast resistor is what has been done on ours.
Could possibly be that ours is completely wrong linked backed to TD42 OEM wires and causing the issues we experience, keen to learn too please Brothers [emoji120][emoji120]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If it is a GT40R then it does need the resistor. But is that compatible with the Pertronix? Maybe it needs a 12volt coil to function properly. Call Patrolapart and ask.

[MB]

Have done Brother, we’re ALL stumped [emoji848]


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[MB]

Problem is with ours, it’s a TB42 dizzy with a TB45 cog custom installed below, problemo being can’t find a dizzy guru willing to touch it for a rebuild [emoji26]


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[MB]

Taking a Humble Nuffy Step Back with Eyeballs now finally open Legends [emoji120][emoji120]
Are you kindly suggesting that a non resistor GT40 type coil might solve my spazzing problems under duress pretty please I truly hope [emoji120][emoji120][emoji120][emoji120][emoji120][emoji120][emoji120][emoji120]
We only replaced elecy bit by bit where we could shop find over some 1,500km return confused/exhausted work trip as to why extreme peddle loss [emoji35]


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[mudnut]

Taking a Humble Nuffy Step Back with Eyeballs now finally open Legends [emoji120][emoji120]
Are you kindly suggesting that a non resistor GT40 type coil might solve my spazzing problems under duress pretty please I truly hope [emoji120][emoji120][emoji120][emoji120][emoji120][emoji120][emoji120][emoji120]
We only replaced elecy bit by bit where we could shop find over some 1,500km return confused/exhausted work trip as to why extreme peddle loss [emoji35]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dunno. Just conjecture at this point. According to Pertronix their system is either good or bad. No in between.

http://www.pertronix.com.au/troubleshooting.html

One section on the Pertronix page points out that low voltage to their unit can cause it to shut down and start up quickly causing misfires and loss of power.

[MB]

Cheers Craigstar Mate [emoji106][emoji106]
With or without, I’ll be putting this Old Faithful back to original’POINTS’ OEM [emoji23][emoji106][emoji106]


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[PureCaboose]

I am currently waiting the get my Ignitor II back from ProQuip as my TB42 died on the roadside 2 weeks ago, so I put in for a warranty claim on the unit as the autoelec tested and advised no signal. The unit itself tested OK on the test bed so the probable issue is earthing on the engine side.

Considering the wiring on mine is 33 years old now, and the insulation and plastic connectors are starting to fall apart....

I am also running a flame thrower coil with mine, as the last coil gave up. You need to have a coil that will perform as 12v, otherwise, they overheat as they are expecting 9v (hence the resistor). The Petronix website has the specifications for the coil if you want to try another brand coil.

If anyone knows an 'easy' way to do away with the distributor and go COP or 6 coils.....other than a complete custom wiring/ecu.

Cheers

[mudnut]

Cheers Craigstar Mate [emoji106][emoji106]
With or without, I’ll be putting this Old Faithful back to original’POINTS’ OEM [emoji23][emoji106][emoji106]


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If it still carries on, then you will know that its a wiring problem.

Another way is to use a transistor to take away the main switching current from the points. Plenty of info on Google about it.

It makes the points last a hell of a lot longer.