2014 GU Rear Indicator lights Fault finding

[Smoothrun]

So for a few months now I have been randomly replacing my Internal 7.5 amp Indicator fuse, Ive tried to remember anything I did prior but not able to come up with a reasonable answer.

About 2 years ago my headlights both failed, weird and random, they were the upgraded phillips globes and I travelled aus back in 2015 without a prob, so reverted back to the originals and alls been well (but worth a mention)

I originally replaced the Front bullbar Indicators with LEDs and they have been on the car pretty much since new also, I have dissconected them and same fault as below found with that outcome so its not them.

Last week I blew another fuse and constantly had a problem each time I indicated. I tried the hazzards and found that they would flash ok but then noticed them to slow down, At that point I noticed a veryslight drop in the engine revs on each flash and knew I had a short, sadly in the end the 10amp fuse under the bonnet blew but melted so bad it fused the entire fuse together causing my flasher relay to melt.

I replaced the flasher relay and still have the same problem.

So last weekend during the day I noticed my rear right Indicator was out but to my surprise it wasnt as in the dark out shopping that night whilst unlocking the car I noticed a very slight glow in the same indicator. The indicators were not functioning but the alarm was still making them glow???

So Saturday I did the following including searching on here for answers.

I removed both L & R rear indicator looms and cleaned them up. ( I did notice the short loom from the chassis wiring to the light globe sockets were both badly unsprung and a bit of friction with wd40 made them good, I also noticed the wiring was pretty stiff and not very flexible???

I tested the wiring from the chassis on both sides and got 11v+ on the indicators and hazzards, but it was hard to test with them flashing on and off but seemed ok. also 12v on parkers

I then ran the rhs loom and socket in the lhs and tested, all good, plugged the lhs into the rhs and all was good. switched them back over to correct side and all tested good

All was ok for a few days until yesterday blown fuses again
I have checked inside the trailer plug and all looks like new.? Note: nothing been changed for years on the plug including any new euipment added.

Today right now I can plug the lhs loom without the rhs loom in and all works fine ( Do the sockets create problems?) Note: rhs flashes fast as expected and doesnt blow

So the only thing I can think to do is remove the rear bumper and check the wiring from the rhs socket to the trailer plug and hope I find a short ( is there an easier way?)

I have even tried searching the chassis wiring but thats pretty hard to do in some spots so a bit of a miss hit,, but looks good

I put a 3" exhaust in 6 weeks ago and made sure I searched madly for splatter spots but all seems ok, but this has been happening prior also


Ive checked the cct diagram in my gregorys and theres only two other things I can consider, The actual Hazzard switch and cornering lamp module (wheres that if you know please?)


Theres other stuff Ive checked like the earth down the rear rhs, cleaned it up but all was good anyway. but open for any suggestions.

My fingers are pointing to the RRHS Indicator socket, Short from RRHS socket to trailer plug, If you can suggest any other options Id greatly appreciate any feed back.

Cheers Dave

[mudnut]

So for a few months now I have been randomly replacing my Internal 7.5 amp Indicator fuse, Ive tried to remember anything I did prior but not able to come up with a reasonable answer.

About 2 years ago my headlights both failed, weird and random, they were the upgraded phillips globes and I travelled aus back in 2015 without a prob, so reverted back to the originals and alls been well (but worth a mention)

I originally replaced the Front bullbar Indicators with LEDs and they have been on the car pretty much since new also, I have dissconected them and same fault as below found with that outcome so its not them.

Last week I blew another fuse and constantly had a problem each time I indicated. I tried the hazzards and found that they would flash ok but then noticed them to slow down, At that point I noticed a veryslight drop in the engine revs on each flash and knew I had a short, sadly in the end the 10amp fuse under the bonnet blew but melted so bad it fused the entire fuse together causing my flasher relay to melt.

I replaced the flasher relay and still have the same problem.

So last weekend during the day I noticed my rear right Indicator was out but to my surprise it wasnt as in the dark out shopping that night whilst unlocking the car I noticed a very slight glow in the same indicator. The indicators were not functioning but the alarm was still making them glow???

So Saturday I did the following including searching on here for answers.

I removed both L & R rear indicator looms and cleaned them up. ( I did notice the short loom from the chassis wiring to the light globe sockets were both badly unsprung and a bit of friction with wd40 made them good, I also noticed the wiring was pretty stiff and not very flexible???

I tested the wiring from the chassis on both sides and got 11v+ on the indicators and hazzards, but it was hard to test with them flashing on and off but seemed ok. also 12v on parkers

I then ran the rhs loom and socket in the lhs and tested, all good, plugged the lhs into the rhs and all was good. switched them back over to correct side and all tested good

All was ok for a few days until yesterday blown fuses again
I have checked inside the trailer plug and all looks like new.? Note: nothing been changed for years on the plug including any new euipment added.

Today right now I can plug the lhs loom without the rhs loom in and all works fine ( Do the sockets create problems?) Note: rhs flashes fast as expected and doesnt blow

So the only thing I can think to do is remove the rear bumper and check the wiring from the rhs socket to the trailer plug and hope I find a short ( is there an easier way?)

I have even tried searching the chassis wiring but thats pretty hard to do in some spots so a bit of a miss hit,, but looks good

I put a 3" exhaust in 6 weeks ago and made sure I searched madly for splatter spots but all seems ok, but this has been happening prior also


Ive checked the cct diagram in my gregorys and theres only two other things I can consider, The actual Hazzard switch and cornering lamp module (wheres that if you know please?)


Theres other stuff Ive checked like the earth down the rear rhs, cleaned it up but all was good anyway. but open for any suggestions.

My fingers are pointing to the RRHS Indicator socket, Short from RRHS socket to trailer plug, If you can suggest any other options Id greatly appreciate any feed back.

Cheers Dave

Before going to the effort of removing the rear bumper, I would suggest taking out the fuse, and bridging the gap with a test light. Pull globes, components and then loom connectors apart until the lamp stops glowing. It will give you a starting point.

[Smoothrun]

Thanks mudnut,

I didnt get your responce until it was too late, but appreciated and noted for future reference.

I did replace the globes 1 x 1 which I should have mentioned in my write up, had no spares anyway so why not. But for my luck I was right.

I took the rear bumper of and as per pics below, just a few points to mention, this is a factory fit towbar and I have never had the bumper off before since new, Ive went around Aus in 2015 (as a mention) and done a bit of rough stuff where the bumper had bottomed out, but it has held up well. The pics will show the impacts of poor fitment from OE (realy not sure but would prefer to think not), What can happen over time when bottoming out in some big ruts (more than likely) but worth a look for everyone who has-is or may have trouble in the future.

Removal of rear bumper took 20 mins 2 x Mudflaps x 14 screws and 4x bolts easy access to the chassis.

85410
85411
85412

[Smoothrun]

more pics, below was prior to cleaning up
85413

below pics show location of wiring, notice lhs is right in the corner and rhs wiring is over the cross member and not in the corner.
85414

cheers

[mudnut]

Glad you got it sorted, fairly easily.

[jack]

Not surprised that Nissan took the easiest option. When I fitted my rear steel bar I noticed that one of the bolts holding the tow bar on had a slightly different look to the others. Went to tighten it up it had no resistance, prised it out to find it was held in place with silicon.
They obviously lost the original bolt and were to bloody slack to get the correct replacement.
This is after I towed my caravan to the tip and back.

[Smoothrun]

Tippin it wasnt Nissan as the tow bar is an option when purchased. I had an arb store fit a gargo barrier and i certainly could have done a better job, in fact i had to modify it and decided id fit it properly myself once mod was complete. There are certainly some hacks out there.