Intercooler upgrade

[MaxPeachy]

I'm pretty sure I've a leaking oem intercooler on the crd Gu. Has anyone installed an upgrade unit from patrolapart $1895 with larger bonnet scoop all hoses ect. Bit cheaper than other competitors but still a fair investment. Any feedback welcome. Thanks ledends

[MaxPeachy]

Or should I ask, were should I be looking for a reasonable ic upgrade? Chees

[stevemc181]

For that sort of money, I’d forget going any top mount and go a Front mount intercooler instead. Fabwitz industries or DatsCool on Facebook have various options. They are a bit harder to fit but well worth it.

I’ve recently had a large Fabwitz front mount intercooler installed, the EGT’s are not a problem anymore.

[MaxPeachy]

That would be decent result, looks like a lot of work thou🤔

[Bidja]

Doing the work yourself?

Do not know much about the Patrolapart TM cooler (bigger scoop) _ had a brief look and guess the core is to match the larger scoop size(waste of time if not). So you are happy about cutting the larger hole in bonnet?

4 yrs ago, I had a TM 600x300x76mm (JonnyTig) worked well but a couple of yrs ago I installed a PDI FM 600x300x76mm (suits my eng set up). Install of FM took me a week along with fitting new air box and 4" SS snorkel and yes far bit of work.

Do not know what mods you have done or intend but maybe a Cross Country Premium may be worth looking at. No bonnet mod. Proven build lot use them.

https://www.crosscountry4x4.com.au/ourproducts/p/nissan-patrol-gu-crd-30l-premium

[MaxPeachy]

Hi Bidja, yeah I'll diy the intercooler including the bonnet mods if I go that way. I'm only planning modest mods to stay on the reliable safe side of things. Most likely exaust upgrade and tuning after the intercooler. That cross country also looks pretty good for an easy bolt in job.

[MB]

IMHO, and only from reading here and also witnessing mates trials & tribulations on their TMIC’s versus FMIC’s.
Top Mount IC’s unfortunately do suffer from heat soak when in slow traffic and or crawling up off-road tracks steadily.
They also do unfortunately completely take away all engine bay positive pressure when crossing rivers or plunging through deep bogholes flooding engine bays with water/sludge……a giant air top exhaust/vent.
Front Mount IC’s do keep OEM bonnets untouched but do unfortunately require very serious custom installation consideration of pipe work/ intake routing for abrasion etc…
FMIC’s will perform clearly proven better for Kw/Nm numbers but design of winches/a/c/spotlights and the rest need to be cleverly airflow positioned too.
Summary IMHO:
If your needs are 50kmph+ highway hauling, go a cheaper TMIC [emoji106][emoji106]
All other scenarios, if maxxxx performance is truly wanted/needed then go FMIC [emoji106][emoji106]
FWIW: I have NO IC [emoji23]


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[MudRunnerTD]

I'd go the cross country if you go top mount mate. They have made 1000s and I've never read a bad word about them to be honest.

No idea who supplies PAP their kit.

When I did the front mount on my GUIV TD42T I had a Heat issue after. I acknowledge I also dropped a big pump and big turbo and tune which was probably the underlying reason for running a little hotter but I'd definitely consider a Rop Mount next time

[Bidja]

Hi Bidja, yeah I'll diy the intercooler including the bonnet mods if I go that way. I'm only planning modest mods to stay on the reliable safe side of things. Most likely exhaust upgrade and tuning after the intercooler. That cross country also looks pretty good for an easy bolt in job.

Sounds like u are handy, so if you end up cutting into the bonnet, consider spending a few more dollars and check out the larger 600x300x76mm TMIC (CC Ultimate) or even Jonny Tig (Does good work).

https://www.crosscountry4x4.com.au/ourproducts/p/nissan-patrol-gu-30l-crd-ultimate

https://www.jonnytig.com/products/view-product.php?product=nissan-gu-3.0-crd-tmic-kit

With ECM remap and good VNT vane management the CRD can perform well. They do like to breathe easy. Seriously think where you want to end up before spending lots. Do it right the first time.

If you go the CC premium checkout what they supply as part of their kit, note they mention a wiring loom (guess this is for under mount spal fan) - check this.
Also check:
How they connect from turbo to cooler inlet spigot pipe (cost more later if u want to increase dia as it looks like they use stock piping), and
what method used to connect MAP sensor and is preferable a second port for taking boost reference (gauge and manual boost control hookup).

For Info: CRD with ECM remap can run well using stock Vac solenoid with boost limiter. Remap can turn off EGR function as that is an advantage when increasing exhaust dia (limp avoidance).

I prefer A FM but a good top mount will provide for a good result.

[pollenface]

Have a look at this page
https://www.are.com.au/Inter/topMountIntercoolers.htm

[BillsGU]

Lots of things to consider. The advantage of an IC upgrade depends on how you drive, where you drive, load you are carrying / towing, etc. In most cases the advantage gained is minimal - especially when you consider cost and complexity of some installations. I went for a Top Mount aftermarket IC (only because my crappy original Nissan one leaked) and had lots of problems initially with it fitting properly - among other issues.

If I had to do it all again I would have taken the original IC and had a more efficient core TIG welded onto the existing ends. Good value for money and everything fits as it should - and it is easy to do.

[MaxPeachy]

Pollenface
Baha, classic love the 1.8 percent upgrade. "Spend 15min n tape up the 4 corners $00

[MaxPeachy]

Thanks for the great advise guys, reckon I'll go for a cross country just got to work out which one.
Legeds ✌️

[Andicee]

Lots of things to consider. The advantage of an IC upgrade depends on how you drive, where you drive, load you are carrying / towing, etc. In most cases the advantage gained is minimal - especially when you consider cost and complexity of some installations. I went for a Top Mount aftermarket IC (only because my crappy original Nissan one leaked) and had lots of problems initially with it fitting properly - among other issues.

If I had to do it all again I would have taken the original IC and had a more efficient core TIG welded onto the existing ends. Good value for money and everything fits as it should - and it is easy to do.

Recently took mine for a long run to Carnarvon Gorge and noticed EGT's getting up to around 600 uphill. Not towing, but packed to the rafters with camping gear and beer. I will never tow, but am keen to do a lap of Oz at some point and am concerned about high EGT's. If I need to spend some coin to get it right I will, but if there is a quick and cheaper way to go, to get these EGT's more stable, I'm all ears.

[BillsGU]

Recently took mine for a long run to Carnarvon Gorge and noticed EGT's getting up to around 600 uphill. Not towing, but packed to the rafters with camping gear and beer. I will never tow, but am keen to do a lap of Oz at some point and am concerned about high EGT's. If I need to spend some coin to get it right I will, but if there is a quick and cheaper way to go, to get these EGT's more stable, I'm all ears.

In simple terms EGTs are all about air to fuel ration. Increase the amount of fuel or decrease the amount of air getting into a diesel engine and you increase the EGTs. Many drivers don't seem to want to change down gears when the engine is under load (eg going up hill). This means you push the throttle further down (more fuel into the engine) but at the same time the revs decrease (less turbo speed so less air into the engine). Usually dropping down a gear will reduce EGTs dramatically (less throttle and higher revs at a lower gear).

[Andicee]

Aha. Yes, I did drop down to fourth, on a particularly long hill and noticed a drop to around 450. Still seems high though!?