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View Full Version : Differences betwen RD28 and TD42 GQ Patrol



Danyael
4th February 2021, 07:01 AM
Hello,

as my previous project Y60 RD28 was sold, I am about to buy a Y60 TD42 from UN army, that came from Bosnia and Hercegovina. It has the steering wheel on the left side, as all european cars, and it looks quite original, not modified. TD42 are quite rare in Europe, I did not have any opportunity to drive any of those before. There are some things I was wondering about, and most of it can be answered if someone have driven both TD42 and RD28.

1. How to tell the difference between 2.8/4.2 diffs and gearbox? I mean, ar there any things that are quite easy to see the difference - just to be sure, that there is an original FS5R50A and HG41. How to tell? I've seen alot of cars, that had only the engine swapped to 4.2, and the rest of drivetrain was from 2.8.
2. Is the 1st gear as short in 4.2 as in 2.8? Seller says, that he actually starts rolling from the 2nd gear, because 1st is soooo short. It is pretty short on 2.8, so I wonder how is it on 4.2?
3. it is an 1997 so-called "black top" engine, how reliable are they compared to silver tops, how do they tolerate turbo upgrades and so on? I was thinking about a turbo upgrade for that engine.

Any help will be useful.

Cheers!

MudRunnerTD
4th February 2021, 07:50 AM
The Running Gear is identical but the 2.8 dif ratio is 4.6 and the TD42 will be 4.1 or in the later GU lower at 3.9.

The 4.2 is a great engine in basic trim and responds well to Mods. there are plenty of after market Turbo options and Fuel Pump options for you starting with the GU TD Turbos and Manifolds bolting straight up right through to Big power Turbo upgrades.

Buy with confdence.

Danyael
4th February 2021, 08:03 AM
The Running Gear is identical but the 2.8 dif ratio is 4.6 and the TD42 will be 4.1 or in the later GU lower at 3.9.

The 4.2 is a great engine in basic trim and responds well to Mods. there are plenty of after market Turbo options and Fuel Pump options for you starting with the GU TD Turbos and Manifolds bolting straight up right through to Big power Turbo upgrades.

Buy with confdence.

Thanks mate!

I will soon get some pictures of her, so I will surely post them. Once a patrol guy, allways a patrol guy. I hope to have this one as the car to live with till the end.

mudnut
4th February 2021, 11:52 AM
The RD28 is basically the same block as an RB30, but is cast with a lot more material to handle the compression and torque.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?41430-RD28-Important-things-to-check

The Gearbox is built a lot lighter than the one fitted behind the TD42.

Assuming the gearbox is basically the same as an RB30. First is quite tall. I was talking to a gearbox builder about swapping to a later Y61 and it seems the gear change mech is slightly different. The RB30 runs a 4.3 diff though.

The second chart is for a GQ.

Danyael
5th February 2021, 05:40 AM
What about the differentials? Are there any differences between the looks of 2.8/4.2 diff, that can be easily checked during inspection?
As for the gearbox, it is pretty obvious and easy to see the difference :-)

mudnut
5th February 2021, 09:31 AM
I have a GU 4.3 diff centre in my GQ so I assume the housings must be the same. You might have to mark a tyre and the drive shaft with chalk. With the a jack under the diff, rotate the tyre and count how many times the shaft rotates or vice versa. Other than that , count how many nuts there are around the diff centre and compare them.

SamIam
18th March 2021, 05:02 PM
The driving differences are quite marked in the gearing.

4.2 has all the torque lower down in the revs; at 2.5 you're just about revved out for power.
2.8 turbo is the opposite, you don't get much power until the turbo kicks in, like about 1.8 -2K revs and above to 3 and over.

Danyael
3rd April 2021, 09:02 PM
Thanks for all the answers, I bought that car!
It still is in Poland and I will need to wait until sommer to drive it home to Norway (because COVID), but I am happy already. I will make a new thread as soon as I'll have it at my place.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/4GozBX388LAdSNDZ7

MB
3rd April 2021, 09:10 PM
Congratulations Dan Mate!
A Beautiful looking GQ Silver Brumby there Bloke [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

BrazilianY60
22nd April 2021, 01:25 PM
Cool wheels and tires. I was assuming it was white, since you mentioned the car to be ex-UN.

Danyael
22nd May 2021, 07:43 AM
Yeah, according to vin number and plate in engine compartment, it should be white. But repainted cars are quite common in Europe, specially offroad cars and those who catch rust sooner than others. I will inspect it when i finally get to pick it up, in july.

Danyael
15th July 2021, 03:35 AM
Hey guys, anyone can help me with those two cables (red and white), connected to battery + terminal with a green plug:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/EL2PPLo7XxkVNvWG7

Something is stealing power from the battery and it is something connected to one of those two cables, so I wonder if anyone could tell me, what is connected to those two?

BrazilianY60
15th July 2021, 09:10 AM
Just looking at that I have no idea. Have you traced it to any part of the engine or maybe into a harness going to the cab?

Danyael
15th July 2021, 10:41 AM
Just looking at that I have no idea. Have you traced it to any part of the engine or maybe into a harness going to the cab?

I ask because I'm not sure where they go. They go together into a thick cable loom, and I ask on the forum to not rip those open just to find where it goes ;-) But one thing is for sure - You cannot start the the engine with those two disconnected.

mudnut
15th July 2021, 01:03 PM
I had a quick look at the manuals you can download from this forum. It shows the white wire going to the alternator. I couldn't see a red wire from the fusible link. Has it got a white stripe on it? It is quite common for a diode in the alternator to fail and cause a drain on the battery.

Danyael
15th July 2021, 09:39 PM
One of the first things I did was to completely disconnect both the alternator and the starter, and the power leak was still there with those both disconected - that said, if the white cable goes to the alternator, then I need to find where the red one goes ;-) I suspect it has something to do with ignition - maybe some sort of start relay or something...

mudnut
15th July 2021, 10:16 PM
If it has a trailer socket, check if someone has wired power through to it. I've had another look, but I've probably missed the Red only wire. Maybe someone with better eyes and knowledge can help you. Unplug the connector and alternator. Get someone to bridge a wire from the battery side to the red terminal, on and off, while you listen for any relays clicking on and off in the cab.