My 2013 Cab Chassis

[Grant209]

Hi all,

Well up at my Fathers in a nice out of the way little Place called Mungindi on the Queensland/NSW Boarder, so with time to kill sitting around doing nothing . . . so I thought I'd share what I've been up too/done to my Patrol in the past 6 months, especially the past 2 months since April with the COVID-19 lock down which has side lined my extra work on the side.

So . . . My 2013 Patrol Cab Chassis, was delivered on the 16th December 2019 with 147,000klm for $19,000, a week before Christmas while I was on a road trip to Longreach with my Father on holidays, so My Son Ryan got first drive.

My Patrol was Originally an Essential Energy Work Ute down Southern NSW, and already came fitted with the following:
- Fiberglas Trade Canopy
- Internal Shelves
- Heavy Duty 12v Power Supply to Canopy
- Ladder Rack
- 180Lt Water Tank & Pump
- 12v Water Pump
- Pest Control Spray System.
- PVC Tubes
- Dual Battery System
- UHF Radio
- GRN Radio Harness
- Mobile Phone Bluetooth
- 500w Inverter in Cabin
- Amber Beacon

So a good base to start of with.

What was on the Drawing Board and Wish List:
Added by me so far:
- Fridge Slide & Power "Done"
- Amateur Radio Units "Done"
- Up-Graded UHF Radio "Done"
- 8" tablet/Navigator "Done"
- Upgraded Mobile Phone Cradle "Done"
- Car Alarm/Central Locking Up-grade "Done"
- Cruise Control. "Done"
- LED Warning Light Upgrade "Done"
- Auxbeam Electronic Switch Control System "Done"
- Roof OzTent/Cargo Cage "Done"
- Re-plumb Water Pump "Done"
- Bush Shower Outlet. "Done"
- Side/Rear Scene Lighting "Done"

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Day of Delivery

Ozzy Car's Advert Photos

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[Grant209]

Following my 14 day Trip up to Longreach in December 2019, I headed back to Sydney for a Days work, which also allowed me my first real look over and get read My New to Me Patrol.

First thing up, was to install my WEACO Fridge, so off to 4WD Supacentre to pickup and install a 60Lts Fridge Slide for my WEACO

The Australian Work Leisure Canopy (AWLC), Panel Lift Doors, have a threshold 50mm above the tray, so the Fridge Slide needed to sit 50mm abave the Tray to allow the slide to open over the threshold. This was achieved with a trip to Bunnings for two lengths of 50mm Retain-It Retaining Wall Uprights.

Power hookup, half already done as the Patrol already had 15mm Battery Cable run to the rear section of the Storage Rack, protected with a 100amp circuit barker and terminated with a Large Anderson Plug. A quick wack-up of a basic power board and ready to go

Also looked at, was the removal of old communications wiring from the cabin and fitting of a New UHF Radio, 7" Tablet for Navigation and Mobile Phone Cradle.

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Fridge Installed

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Basic Power Board

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Removal of old communications wiring from the cabin and fitting of a New UHF Radio, 7" Tablet for Navigation and Mobile Phone Cradle.

[mudski]

Nice work. Why 100amp for the circuit breaker? Im no expert but that seems high. What amp rating is the wire? As far as I know the fuse or breaker should match or be lower than the wire's rating, so you don't start melting things before you've reached the breakers trigger point.

[Cuppa]

Nice work. Why 100amp for the circuit breaker? Im no expert but that seems high. What amp rating is the wire? As far as I know the fuse or breaker should match or be lower than the wire's rating, so you don't start melting things before you've reached the breakers trigger point.

On my set up I have a 100Amp circuit breaker (on right) between the battery & the power distribution board (on left) which houses half a dozen smaller circuit breakers for individual circuits. The 100amp circuit breaker provides protection to the power distribution board which has an overall max current capacity of 100amps. If you look closely at the CB's in the power distribution board you can see that they add up to a total of 120 amps if all switched on at the same time. They never are, but the 100amp CB provides the additional protection to prevent potential 'frying' of the distribution board's own wiring. The 100amp CB also acts as a convenient means of isolating the battery for distribution board maintenance or in an electrical emergency.

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Grant, what are you planning to run off that inverter?

[Grant209]

Nice work. Why 100amp for the circuit breaker? Im no expert but that seems high. What amp rating is the wire? As far as I know the fuse or breaker should match or be lower than the wire's rating, so you don't start melting things before you've reached the breakers trigger point.

Mudki . . . there was an 100amp circuit breaker in the Patrol's original dual battery system when I got it, connected to it was a heavy power cable running to the rear of the canopy, terminated with an 150amp Anderson Plug.

I don't know what the heavy duty cable was originally used for to supply power too, maybe a 2nd auxiliary battery somewhere under the canopy . . . but in the long run I was going to use a Micro relay Switch Unit (https://www.auxbeam.com/led-light-wirings/qp002559) which had the following Fused outputs and what I ended up connecting up to them:
30amp Outlet - Fridge.
30amp Outlet - Amber LED's
20amp Outlet - Red LED's & Reverse/Scene Lights
20amp Outlet - Reverse/Scene Lights
10amp Outlet - Left Scene Lights
10amp Outlet - Right Scene Lights
10amp Outlet - UHF CB, HAM Dual Band Radio
5amp Outlet - 2x Handheld Radios, 12v/USB Accessory Power Box

So in the long run, I thought the 100amp circuit breaker would meet the overall needs fine.

[Grant209]

Grant, what are you planning to run off that inverter?

Cuppa the inverter is mainly to power minor stuff - computer, printer, Sat phone charger etc . . . . such as if I'm working as a Event Medic and need to print Casualty Reports for injured parties etc.

I know it will run my Vac Vacuum and angle grinder . . . but they are extreme

[Grant209]

My Patrol, had three jammed drawer slides. The small one on the Near Side, I was able to free up with some CRC and repetitive opening & closing, it now works fine and holds my socket and spanner sets.

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On the Off Side, the Drawer which is large enough to hold my 45Lt WEACO Fridge, the ball bearings in the drawer run had started falling out, so dismantled and purchased a New Set of Draw Runners and replaced them, the drawer now holds my medical Packs and allows ease removal from the storage shelve area without catching them on the shelving in the process.

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[Grant209]

One of the things I missed with my D22 Navara, was it's Roof Console Map Lights.

So after a little research I came across a post on the 4wd Earth Forum, where a Patrol Cab Chassis owner had taken a Roof Console from a Patrol Wagon and installed it into his Cab Chassis. So in March I contacted Central Coast 4x4 Wreckers an secured myself a Patrol Wagon Roof Console with Map lights and mounting frame for $120.

The following weekend I installed it . . . and presto I had my Map lights again.

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[Grant209]

Also during March, I re-plumbed the 12v Water Pump that came with the Patrol from it's Electrical Authority fitout, which was setup to run a White Ant Pesticide Spray System, which I had removed straight after delivery.

I reconfigured it so it could be used either from the on-board 180Lt Water Tank, or from a static water supply such as a Jerry Can or Creek, to be used with a 10m garden hose for washing mud off or just as a Bush Shower.
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Since this photo was taken, I've installed a in-line filter into the pick-up line.

[Grant209]

I came across this (https://www.auxbeam.com/led-light-wirings/qp002559) during a search back in February and thought what a great idea. Rather then have Toggle Switches everywhere, it allowed a Single 50mm x 100mm 8 Switch Mini Panel with feed cable to a Micro relay Switch Box.

In March I purchased one off eBay for $180 . . . only had to find time to fit it up :-(
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In April, with cancellations and work drying up in my Training Job and Event Medical Coverage due to COVID-19, My Mate James an Auto Electrician gave up a Saturday afternoon and gave me a hand installing all my lighting systems up to the Micro Switch Panel and Relay Box onto the Canopy Power Board.


The following was achieved off the single Switch System, which reduced a number of the original Electrical Authority wiring in the cab, and the Micro Switch Panel was right at home n the Roof Console out of the way, and made for a Perfessional Looking Install which had the following Switched Items:
30amp Outlet - Fridge.
30amp Outlet - Amber LED's
20amp Outlet - Red LED's & Reverse/Scene Lights
20amp Outlet - Reverse/Scene Lights
10amp Outlet - Left Scene Lights
10amp Outlet - Right Scene Lights
10amp Outlet - Water Pump
10amp Outlet - UHF CB, HAM Dual Band Radio, 2x Handheld Radios, 12v/USB Accessory Power Box,

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[Grant209]

Next up, was some tray covering to protect my bags etc carried in the back.

So down to Bunnings and purchase some Blue'ish Marine Carpet.

I thought it would be easier to remove the Fridge Slide rather then going through the process of trying to trimming the carpet around the Fridge Slide still in place, which looking back on it I'm glade I did.


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Also done, was securing holding points for my Foldable Hand Trolley and Entrenching Tool on the back of the Shelves, and a Mounting Point for my Spine Board on top of the Shelving.

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[Cuppa]

Cuppa the inverter is mainly to power minor stuff - computer, printer, Sat phone charger etc . . . . such as if I'm working as a Event Medic and need to print Casualty Reports for injured parties etc.

I know it will run my Vac Vacuum and angle grinder . . . but they are extreme

Was hoping you wouldn't say that, but it's why I asked.

Modified Square wave output & sensitive switchmode electronics as found in computers & their chargers are not a good mix. It will run them, but will slowly damage them. I was running my laptop from the modified square wave output from a large solar system where we were caretaking for 6 months. At around the 3 month mark the power supply on the motherboard failed. Major inconvenience (but at least I had it backed up), & a new laptop required. Ran the new laptop off the 350w Pure sine wave inverter in our car only. The charger ran cooler & without the very slight buzzing sound it would make if plugged into the modified square wave supply. You may get away with it, but if you have stuff on the computer you don't want to lose (as most of us do) & don't want something you depend upon failing when you need it, it's not a risk I would take.

No problem using it for the angle grinder, vacuum etc. Not sure about the printer, & I'd be cautious about using it with any chargers which may contain any electronic 'smarts'.

A smaller wattage pure sine wave inverter would suit the computer & charging. I also use a 180w for that purpose in our Tvan. My 350w one in the car covers me for the fast charger for my Makita 18v batteries.

Personally I consider the Victron Phoenix range of small pure sine wave inverters to be great - reliable & dependable (unlike some I've had) at very affordable prices..... & they come with a 5 year warranty. No affiliation - just a very satisfied customer.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Victron-12V-375VA-Pure-Sine-Wave-Phoenix-Inverter-5-YEAR-WARRANTY/331902308499?hash=item4d46eb5093:g:M-8AAOSwwgBcOAcx

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Victron-12V-250W-Pure-Sine-Wave-Phoenix-Inverter-PICK-UP/323659228321?hash=item4b5b97e4a1:g:rqkAAOSwhrpcRVH f

Couldn't find a 12v 180 model listed on ebay at the moment, but they are often there. As it is the 250w is cheap enough not to worry about it.


Ps. Is the micro switch box thingo wireless? Do you have a link for it? Just interested - haven't seen anything like that before.

[Grant209]

Was hoping you wouldn't say that, but it's why I asked.

Modified Square wave output & sensitive switchmode electronics as found in computers & their chargers are not a good mix. It will run them, but will slowly damage them. I was running my laptop from the modified square wave output from a large solar system where we were caretaking for 6 months. At around the 3 month mark the power supply on the motherboard failed. Major inconvenience (but at least I had it backed up), & a new laptop required. Ran the new laptop off the 350w Pure sine wave inverter in our car only. The charger ran cooler & without the very slight buzzing sound it would make if plugged into the modified square wave supply. You may get away with it, but if you have stuff on the computer you don't want to lose (as most of us do) & don't want something you depend upon failing when you need it, it's not a risk I would take.

No problem using it for the angle grinder, vacuum etc. Not sure about the printer, & I'd be cautious about using it with any chargers which may contain any electronic 'smarts'.

A smaller wattage pure sine wave inverter would suit the computer & charging. I also use a 180w for that purpose in our Tvan. My 350w one in the car covers me for the fast charger for my Makita 18v batteries.

Personally I consider the Victron Phoenix range of small pure sine wave inverters to be great - reliable & dependable (unlike some I've had) at very affordable prices..... & they come with a 5 year warranty. No affiliation - just a very satisfied customer.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Victron-12V-375VA-Pure-Sine-Wave-Phoenix-Inverter-5-YEAR-WARRANTY/331902308499?hash=item4d46eb5093:g:M-8AAOSwwgBcOAcx

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Victron-12V-250W-Pure-Sine-Wave-Phoenix-Inverter-PICK-UP/323659228321?hash=item4b5b97e4a1:g:rqkAAOSwhrpcRVH f

Couldn't find a 12v 180 model listed on ebay at the moment, but they are often there. As it is the 250w is cheap enough not to worry about it.

Cuppa to my best approach, near 80% of my Electronic gear - Printer, UHF Radio, Amateur Radio Equipment . . . powered within the canopy . . . are all 12volt. I try my best to keep all my Electrical gear a 12 volt base capability, to allow for the ease of power supply and charging etc.

About the only thing I use the Inverter for, is for my Bunnings Al Cheap'o Ozito 18v Drill, and for when I am working as a Event Medic, with my very Old & Basic Small Windows Netbook Computer that the Battery is shoot, but has still run ok off the Inverter for the past 8 years. Not much worth stealing by anyone if seen at Events, can be knocked around 4WD'ing, and if the Inverter dose blow it up, I can print from my tablet if needed, so all up the inverter get's very little use.

But thanks for the heads up, if my shitty little Notebook dose finally die, I'll take note and look at something more suitable as you have suggested.

[Grant209]

When the Patrol was delivered . . . like the two side drawers . . . . the rear drawer . . . a Box Drawer affixed between the Shelving, approximately 1100mm long, 400mm wide, 200mm deep. this drawer's runners were sized, to open it my son and I forced the drawer open . . . but the bearings were buggered and we were not able to push the drawer back in again, and as a result . . . had to take the angle grinder to the drawer runners and remove the drawer completely to be able to close the rear canopy panel door.

Anyway . . . it wasn't a priority to replace the Drawer Slide, so the Drawer sat out the back of the shed till Late May . . . when I had time to replace the Drawer Runners.

UES International www.uesint.com has a outlet just up the road to me, which I have found very useful. As the Drawer holds less then 50kg all up, I went for a 1m Bottom Mount Draw Slide rather then side mount, which allowed the draw to be fully pulled out and tilt down and sit on the canopy door base, making access to my storage box's a little easier.

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So stored in it are Kitchen Box, Training Paperwork Box, Winch/Tyre Accessory Box, Air Compressor, Tie Downs Bag

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On the tray floor below the Box Draw, I placed wooden slats to allow 20lt storage boxs to slide across the floor easier.
these's box's include: Spear Work Clothes Box, Electrical Bit & Pieces Box, Nut/Bolt/Screw Box, Grease Gun.

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[Grant209]

On top, I fitted my Amber and Red LED's to both the front and rear Roof Bars.

I modified and reused the Ladder Rack System to take my Rescue Basket, positioned on the passenger side of the Canopy. The Ladder Rack System also now holds 1x LED Work/Scene Light, which is somewhat protected from tree limbs etc while out 4WDing sitting under the Rack.

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In the future, I have a 30watt Solar Panel sitting in the shed doing nothing. The plan is to mount the Solar Panel in-between the Ladder Rack under the Rescue Basket to trickle charge my Auxiliary Battery, as I use to do with it on my D22 Navara.

Around Mid June 2020, I reused and fitted my Rhino Roof Basket.

This is a 2000L x 600W Basket used to carry my OzTent, Camp Stretcher and 4kg Gas Bottle. Given the Canopy Roof Bars are 2100mm apart, and the bottom of the roof basket is 1000mm long, the bottom of the basket doesn't quiet reach between the front and rear bars - 50mm short either end to secure it to the bars, so the basket is fitted too 2x Lengths of 4mm Angle-line under the basket, thus the two lengths of timber in the basket. A Plus with the Angle-line, is that the Angleline also gives the basket extra strength in it's mid section and also allows a mounting point for my Drivers Side LED Work/Scene Light.

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The two lengths of timber also allow the OzTent to slide over the 50mm square wire mesh easily, I intend to replace the two lengths with one length of Plywood in the near future..

Below, is the rear view showing the rear facing Amber/Red LED's, My Rear Reverse/Work Lights and the 90mm PVC tubing that holds my Fishing Rod.
The Rear Reverse/Work Lights are configured to switch on with my Reversing Lights, and can be Manually Switched on from the Power Board next to the Fridge.

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[Cuppa]

Ps. Is the micro switch box thingo wireless? Do you have a link for it? Just interested - haven't seen anything like that before.

I found the link you posted to this unit which I'd missed 1st time around. :oops:

It does look like a neat solution, but try as I might I can't quite get my head around how it does what it does. I've watched the video & looked at advertising material, & even a couple of youtube video of self installations.
Sooo.... the switch box replaces the need for multiple relays in multiple circuits. A relay utilises a a thin cable & low current to operate a 'switch' to carry higher current via heavier cables between power source (battery) & the 'appliance' eg. driving lights. There do not appear to be any relays in the 'control box', it looks to be a box containing multiple fuse holders & fuses with common busbars? So nothing in the control box is switched? If so then all the switching must be done inside the switch panel inside the cab, but that is where I'm confused. Depending on where you look, the unit is supplied with either a 60amp or a 100amp circuit breaker meaning that this is the unit's max capacity. But the cable running to the switch panel, doesn't, from what I can see look anything like heavy enough to carry that sort of current. I also find it hard to believe that the 'micro switches' would be intended to pass currents of up to 30 amps, but it's possible there is something about micro switches I don't understand, never having used them. Somewhere in the 'system' there surely has to be something capable of switching up to 30 amps dc at a time, & this needs to be fairly robust to resist the tendency to arc that dc has at that level of current.

I'm sure the product must be suitable for the job it does, just wondering if you, or anyone else can throw any light on how it does it for me? It's got me interested.

[Grant209]

I found the link you posted to this unit which I'd missed 1st time around. :oops:

It does look like a neat solution, but try as I might I can't quite get my head around how it does what it does. I've watched the video & looked at advertising material, & even a couple of youtube video of self installations.
Sooo.... the switch box replaces the need for multiple relays in multiple circuits. A relay utilises a a thin cable & low current to operate a 'switch' to carry higher current via heavier cables between power source (battery) & the 'appliance' eg. driving lights. There do not appear to be any relays in the 'control box', it looks to be a box containing multiple fuse holders & fuses with common busbars? So nothing in the control box is switched? If so then all the switching must be done inside the switch panel inside the cab, but that is where I'm confused. Depending on where you look, the unit is supplied with either a 60amp or a 100amp circuit breaker meaning that this is the unit's max capacity. But the cable running to the switch panel, doesn't, from what I can see look anything like heavy enough to carry that sort of current. I also find it hard to believe that the 'micro switches' would be intended to pass currents of up to 30 amps, but it's possible there is something about micro switches I don't understand, never having used them. Somewhere in the 'system' there surely has to be something capable of switching up to 30 amps dc at a time, & this needs to be fairly robust to resist the tendency to arc that dc has at that level of current.

I'm sure the product must be suitable for the job it does, just wondering if you, or anyone else can throw any light on how it does it for me? It's got me interested.

Cuppa,

I believe all the Live Circuit Switching is done via the CAN-BUS Control Box. . . . there are a couple of reasons why I believe this.

1st: Above each fuse, there is a box like shape 10 x10mm, which we think is a micro type relay switch on the circuit board beneath the Heat Shrink, we believe these's are a Circuit Relay Switch . . . a little hard to see and identify with all the Black Heat Shrink covering the whole board, but that's what we think they are.

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2nd: To the above right of the Board, there are two Plugs:
Left: Illumination & Activation Power Plug - White "illumination" / Red "Board Power Switch"
Right: Micro Switch Panel Plug - Black/Red/Yellow/White

As you stated, the Micro Switch Panel wiring is too light between the Switch Panel and the Control Box to run a WEACO Fridge,

3rd: The Micro Switch Panel, as you would expect, each button switches on/off each position.

In the middle is a Small RED Button.

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At first I thought this was the On/Off button for the whole system, but it is not . . .

- The Small RED Button will switch Off the already activated items and hold them in memory.
- if pressed again, it will turn back on the items held in the memory.
- When pressed and held for 3sec, it will turn off all selected items, and cancel the memory.

For that season, I believe all the live circuit switching is through the CAN-BUS Control Board.

For the past 10 years most of the Fire Trucks I drive, have moved away from solid state relay wired circuits to this type of Power Distribution Circuit Boards - or CAN - BUS System to run the various 12 and 24v Electrical Items on the trucks, such as the Red/Blue Emergency Light Beacons, LED Strobe Lights, Sirens, Pump Engagement, Scene Lighting, Storage Locker Lighting, vehicle marker lights etc.

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So for sometime I have been seeing this type concept coming into our industry, and could see the benefits that it offered in having a Single Switch Panel in the cabin rather then having to accommodate multiple toggle switches in the cabin and the wiring harness that goes with them. So when I got the Patrol, knowing I would be looking at hooking up and wanting to be able to switch number of electrical accessories, I started searching for a Remote Switch Panel Type Control Unit that would suit my needs, and slightly more compact then what I was use to seeing on the Fire Trucks, and to my surprise these's popped up in one of the searches I did.

The control box, from what James and I could work out, is a CAN-BUS circuit type control board with 8x item/accessories connection switching points setup, with a higher current input supply too the board. Each item/accessories connection points has it's own fuse incorporated in the circuit board with a LED to indicate a blown fuse.

Out of the box, we think for the purpose of amp draw control, the 8x item/accessories connection points are grouped together in Two's, and are stepped down in fuse capacity of: 2x 30amp, 2x 20amp, 2x 10amp, 2x 5amp fused points. But from what we could work out, the fuse step down has nothing to do with the circuit board capacity, rather just a method of controlling the overall current draw on the system.

Playing around, we found we could swap fuse's around, and there was no difference in the Control Boards operation, so we believe you could operate each accessory point with what ever fuse capability, just having to be mindful of your overall current draw use, so James (my Auto Electrician) believed.

Power supply wise, the Control Board/Box is activated by a 12v Input to the Control Box, once 12v is supplied the the Micro Switch Panel is illuminated and the Control Box is active. It is recommended that the Control Box be connected direct to your vehicle's battery through either a 60/100amp Circuit Barker, the Micro Switch Panel in return draws it's power from it's connection from the CAN-BUS Control Board. The Micro Switch Panel has a illuminate Level control (white wire), in which you can set the illumination brightness.

In my insulation, I have reused the Patrol's original Amber Beacon Power Supply to act as a Master Switch for the Control Box.

On the link to the manufactures website, the manufacture mainly refers to the system being used with auxiliary Lighting, if you were to use this system to activate Front Facing Driving Aid Lights (Driving Lights and LED Bar Lights), you would still need to incorporate a Solid State Relay in the Circuit, in the engine compartment etc . . . to switch the lights on/off independent of this system with the High Beam Switch to comply with the ARD Rules.

At this stage, I don't know how reliable this system will be. I purchased it for it's Compact Switch Panel and it's convenient mounting options that it offered, rather then trying to find a method of locating 6x Toggle Switches and their wiring harness in the cabin area, which this system has achieved nicely.

The concept . . . like the Fire Truck industry one, dose allow the Micro Switch Panel . . . or . . . the CAN-BUS Control Box to to be swapped out for the purpose of ease of fault identification and replacement without the need to pull apart a dash/console system . . . although unlike with the fire truck industry . . . I don't keep spears on hand, to be able to swap out and send a faulty unit away for repairs, but in the 10 years I have seen these being used, I have been told my Service only holds 2 Sets of Spear units for some 100 Scania Trucks in service, and they don't get swapped out often.

Time will tell.

[Cuppa]

Thanks for taking the time to answer Grant, informative & interesting. I guess the choice is a swings & roundabouts thing. Less wiring/easy replacement vs having to replace an entire control box should a single 'micro relay' fail instead of a single replaceable relay. The 'modern' way.

Certainly a valid choice, & a neat solution.

I suppose if a micro relay did fail, it wouldn't be to hard to 'dump' one circuit & move wires & fuses to keep a more essential circuit in operation until a spare could be obtained. (Assuming all the micro relays are similarly rated).

[Grant209]

Thanks for taking the time to answer Grant, informative & interesting. I guess the choice is a swings & roundabouts thing. Less wiring/easy replacement vs having to replace an entire control box should a single 'micro relay' fail instead of a single replaceable relay. The 'modern' way.

Certainly a valid choice, & a neat solution.

I suppose if a micro relay did fail, it wouldn't be to hard to 'dump' one circuit & move wires & fuses to keep a more essential circuit in operation until a spare could be obtained. (Assuming all the micro relays are similarly rated).

Cubba,

I did consider this unit as well: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6-Gang-ON-OFF-LED-Switch-Control-Panel-Relay-Control-Box-12V-Car-Marine-Boat-RV/401972974548?hash=item5d9774d3d4:g:MZEAAOSwPsBd3lJ O&frcectupt=true

This one dose have traditional solid State Relays rather then the CAN-BUS electronic board type that I went with.

I could had got by with this 6 Switch Unit, just using it for the following:
1 - Fridge
2 - Amber Warning LED's
3 - Red Warning LED's
4 - Left Scene Lights
5 - Right Scene Lights
6 - Reversing/Rear Scene Lights,

And just make up separate wiring circuits from the rear Power Board Fused Block for My Internal Canopy Lights, Water Pump and USB Power Box, but I went with the 8 Switch System which dose allow Me to switch off everything but my Fridge . . . such as at night time while in bed to conserve battery power.

[Grant209]

Well, a New set of BF Goodrich KM3 Mud LT235/85R16 tyres now on the Patrol . . .

New Tyres . . . much more quieter then then the Old Worn out set of KM2's that were on it.

I've never had Mud Tyre's before, never seen the need, only All Terrain Tyres on my other 4wd's, so new age for me, will just have to wait and see what wear I get out of them.

[Grant209]

The Patrol came with this piss weak little Safety Step

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With the canopy roof at 2m high, I don't really consider it safe hanging off the roof rack system with one foot on the step . . . trying to get stuff up onto and off the roof of the canopy, especially anyone else on my behalf.


Anyway, last night I came across this Ford Ranger Ute Step :-)

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Look's like something that a good Mate might be able to modify to mount up to the back of my Patrol . . . should be fare better then the little Safety Step which is more suitable for climbing in and out of the back of a ute tray.

[Almostunseen]

Great read Grant, I too have gone the patrol darkside from my d22, it was too tempting.

Hamish

[Cuppa]

My ex Telstra came with fold up steps at the rear but I found them too low to be helpful & they were heavy galvanised affairs. Removed them in a weight saving exercise. Tried to offload them here, but no takers so they went to scrap. I only have solar panels on my roof now, but now & again I like to clean all the outback dust off them. I can reach four of them from the rear, stepping up on the towball & standing on the ledge at the back. A bit 'precarious' The front two panels I can reach from standing on the door sills. Bought a small lightweight broom in Normanton to make the job easier. Does the red step you are replacing attach to the towball tongue somehow? If so I might be interested in it if it would make stepping up onto the 'ledge' a bit safer?

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EDIT On second thoughts perhaps not. I found the Safe-T-Step web page, & on my tow hitch I'd need to use a step to get up onto the folding step as it would be just a little higher than my comfort zone. :( Just tried with the small aluminium folding step I carry - which has many uses - & have now found another use for it! :)

[Grant209]

Well brought and fitted a AUTOSTRADA Cruise Control Kit today, after my short 30klm drive home on the freeway . . . most happy with it.

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[Grant209]

EDIT On second thoughts perhaps not. I found the Safe-T-Step web page, & on my tow hitch I'd need to use a step to get up onto the folding step as it would be just a little higher than my comfort zone. :( Just tried with the small aluminium folding step I carry - which has many uses - & have now found another use for it! :)

Sorry Mate, missed this one.

The Safe-T-Step would sit about 1" above your tow ball.

For access to the roof from the side of the canopy, I'm looking at a 2.4m telescopic Ladder . . . usually used with roof top tents.

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[Cuppa]

Literally about one inch too far unfortunately.

I did have a ladder, but ditched it to save space & weight. Hard to justify carrying one when it’s only use is to clean the dust & bird shit off the solar panels a few times each year! Those telescopic ones are quite popular in motorhome & caravan circles, although they do need to be kept clean to prevent grit from making them hard to use I believe.

[Grant209]

Literally about one inch too far unfortunately.

The steps I picked up, I intend to mount them / position them about 200mm below the rear tail lights, just enough to fit the Registration Plate below the Lights, but I hope high enough to maintain good height for ground departure clearance, and not too get in the way of the draw bar.


Those telescopic ones are quite popular in motorhome & caravan circles, although they do need to be kept clean to prevent grit from making them hard to use I believe.

I did think of just a 2m single stran ladder, and just store it in the OzTent Basket on the canopy roof all the time. But the convivence of one of these telescopic ladders is, I have about 150mm space above the drawer that holds my Medical Packs, so if I made up a mounting bracket above the drawer, a telescopic ladder should fit into that space nice and snug and be out of the way, and out of the weather and secure from theft.

[Grant209]

Well after a few months sitting around . . . a little home fabrication . . . cutting, drilling and painting . . . followed by a week trying to find a replacement Tow Bar . . . . the steps are finally ON.

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[Grant209]

My AWL Canopy, and my Fridge Slide makes my Fridge a little on the high side to see and get stuff out, so have been looking around for either a Drop Down or a Tilt Slide that might fit into My fridge space within My AWL Canopy.

The Drop Down Slides were mostly too wide to fit, being over the 530mm wide to fit into My fridge space, and I wasn't 100% positive the Tilt Slides would fit too, so wasn't too keen to part with $500 - $700 on a Online Purchase to find it a No Goer.

I tried my own hand in modifying My current slide into a Tilt Slide . . . but wasn't that satisfied with my effort, and a little worried it's stability and unguarded parts and possible little fingers . . . even mine, so pulled it out the next day.

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Anyway, last week I found online a second hand Dunn & Watson Tilt Slide on FB Marketplace for $350, so thought bugger it, it was too good to ignore it.

So after getting it home, tried it for size . . . . just a little over size . . . after some cutting, grinding, drilling here and there . . . I made it fit where it was required to fit, and now it fits nice and snuggly into it's new home.

Most happy with it.

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[Grant209]

Also found out early last week, I have a cracked support mount on My Exhaust Drop Pipe . . . was told I was better to replace rather then re-weld the bracket back on, so waiting for a DEA Performance/Dandy Exhaust 3" System to arrive.

[Grant209]

New Roof Rack fitted the past week.

Removed the Old Rescue Basket (Ladder Rack) System, Rhino Basket and 150mm PVC Tube, and fitted a OCAM Alloy Flat Rack and two 100mm PVC Tubes in their place.

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Old system had limited storage space and as I'm not doing Medic Work anymore, I thought
something more practical would be a good idea.


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The 2nd Hand OCAM Alloy Flat Rack I picked-up, Less the Solar Panel.


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Looking rather bare with all the old system removed, two New Steel Uni Struts fitted to original bar
work for added strength and to allow the OCAM Rack to be mounted using Gutter Nuts.


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Old Ladder Rack Sides reused on both sides to fill in the sides and assist with mounding lights and
aerial mounts.


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New LED Light Bar fitted, and Old Hazard LED Modules refitted to New Rack.


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Two New 100mm PVC Tubes fitted, 1x for Fishing Rods, 2nd for Tent Poles, Old 10w Solar Panel
added to allow trickle charge.


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Finally . . . as my 20w Solar Panel is about 11 years old and power supplying had dropped some,
I replaced it with a Kings 160w Semi Flexible Solar Panel.

And this holds my weight too, I can stand and walk on this rack with no issues.

[Grant209]

With being stuck at home in lock down, had extra time on my hands to do some researching through the Net and YouTube for faults repairs for my Icom IC-706mk2g HF/VHF/UHF Amateur Radio, and it looks like I found a fix . . . it seems a common issue with the circuit trace being eroded due to the adhesive used on a pad stuck to the circuit board, solder in a bridging wire and the old 706 turned on again for the first time in 3 years.

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The circuit board eroded trace

[Grant209]

So with my Icom IC-706mk2g up and working again, may as well fit My 706 and it's auto antenna tuner into the patrol . . . so time to make up a Radio Board for the Patrol.

Left to right:
- Invertor
- Icom IC-208H VHF/UHF Amateur Radio
- LDG Auto Antenna Tuner
- Icom IC-706mk2g
- Oricom UHF CB

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