GU front end clunk

[Peggy]

So my 98 GU had a bad clunking noise coming from the front end when in 4wd thought it was the CVs so though while I’m there will do a full front end rear build both sides finished all of that and still making the exact same noise sounds like it’s coming from under my feet thinking either front diff or tail shaft. The clunking starts as soon as I take off disappear for a few seconds comes back on and off please help me before it turns into fire wood 😂

[pollenface]

I'm thinking it could be a seized or stiff uni joint in the prop shaft. I had a similar sensation in another vehicle and that was the culprit.

[PeeBee]

Check your steering damper clamp bolts. I found I had a similar noise and they were moving a little bit on initial movement.

[Peggy]

Thanks for the reply’s I’ll check them out after work see how I go

[mudnut]

Sounds silly, but check your handbrake is disengaging properly. Mine had the noise manifest itself in the front drivetrain for some weird reason.

[Cuppa]

Does it make the clunk in response to road surface. I had a terrible clunk which was only obviously on *bad* corrugations, not mild ones. Felt it through ugh the floor like you. In my case the bushes on the driver side control arm had been destroyed. Hard to see, inside the chassis, but look for the bolted end of the control arm inside the chassis, & compare it to the passenger side. If that’s it you may be lucky & just be able to tighten it up!

[Peggy]

Hey it’s definitely drive line related as it in crease and decreases with speed, changes the unis no change but I tested and it only happens when the hubs are actually locked in should have done that first I know haha, they are AVM HD free wheeling my next question do they require the “egg ring” if so there is none which could be causing the issue

[mudski]

Hey it’s definitely drive line related as it in crease and decreases with speed, changes the unis no change but I tested and it only happens when the hubs are actually locked in should have done that first I know haha, they are AVM HD free wheeling my next question do they require the “egg ring” if so there is none which could be causing the issue

Try only locking one side at a time. Is it only under load or coasting etc etc? Are they genuine AVM hubs or the Chinee copies? I bought Chinee copies of the Genuine Nissan free wheeling hubs and they made terrible noises. I finally forked out the coin for the real deal ones and all noises went. And no I don't believe you require the egg ring for AVMs.

[mudski]

Another thing to check is the diff ratio's. Make sure the back is the same as the front.

[Peggy]

Yeah mate it’s only under load if I let off or put the clutch in it goes away, will test the one locked in at a time cheers

[mudski]

Yeah mate it’s only under load if I let off or put the clutch in it goes away, will test the one locked in at a time cheers

Remove the Hub and see if the gears that mesh together when you lock the hubs are not slipping. This was the issue with the Chinee hubs I had. I could clearly see the wear marks from the teeth jumping.

[Peggy]

So I tested it out and it only does it when both hubs are locked in, had the hubs off the other day couldn’t see anything to wrong with them, they hard a fair bit of play but I assumed that was normal but could be wrong

[Peggy]

And if I’m accelerating hardish if I’m just cruising it’s fine

[Peggy]

And they are marked AVM made in Brazil so assume they are legit

[mudski]

Have you got any other hubs you can access to swap over to try. Just thinking unless you have a front locker one hub open wont work as a test.

[Peggy]

Nah mate might just bite the bullet and buy some new ones, sick of the stupid torx heads on the AVM ones anyway haha and if that doesn’t fix it I’ll pull the diff out

[Cuppa]

Hey it’s definitely drive line related as it in crease and decreases with speed, changes the unis no change but I tested and it only happens when the hubs are actually locked in should have done that first I know haha, they are AVM HD free wheeling my next question do they require the “egg ring” if so there is none which could be causing the issue

I guess if you know there is no egg ring you've had the hubs apart ...... so did the clunking start before or after you had them apart. My car had no egg rings in it when I got it (standard manual hubs) & I was strongly advised to put them in, which I did. Without them there is room for movement, which may or may not be causing your clunk. It didn't in mine, biut I think I was just lucky & that it was only a matter of time before a problem arose. If I were you I'd buy some & fit them. Won't be a huge expense & it may fix your problem. Even if it doesn't you'll have had a good look at your hubs & know they are not a problem waiting to happen.

Ah just read you've had them apart & have some play in them .... it's possible the egg rings will take up the play.

[mudski]

I guess if you know there is no egg ring you've had the hubs apart ...... so did the clunking start before or after you had them apart. My car had no egg rings in it when I got it (standard manual hubs) & I was strongly advised to put them in, which I did. Without them there is room for movement, which may or may not be causing your clunk. It didn't in mine, biut I think I was just lucky & that it was only a matter of time before a problem arose. If I were you I'd buy some & fit them. Won't be a huge expense & it may fix your problem. Even if it doesn't you'll have had a good look at your hubs & know they are not a problem waiting to happen.

Ah just read you've had them apart & have some play in them .... it's possible the egg rings will take up the play.

He’s running AVM hubs mate. They don’t use the egg ring.


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[Cuppa]

He’s running AVM hubs mate. They don’t use the egg ring.




Aha, that's probably why he said they were missing then. :)

I always thought they were pretty much a straight copy of the OE hubs.

[mudski]

Aha, that's probably why he said they were missing then. :)

I always thought they were pretty much a straight copy of the OE hubs.

They are a two piece design. Full auto hubs converted to manual are better than AVM hubs.

[Peggy]

Well put another set of manual locking hubs on with the spacer and egg ring still the same noise

[Peggy]

Read around and sounds like it might be the transfer case chain slipping could and one shed some light on this ? From what I have read they say it takes a lot of power to stretch it and being LS swapped it could well have stretched it

[mudski]

Read around and sounds like it might be the transfer case chain slipping could and one shed some light on this ? From what I have read they say it takes a lot of power to stretch it and being LS swapped it could well have stretched it

Never heard of that, but theres a first time for everything..

[mudski]

You've remove the front tail shaft and checked the Uni's?

[PeeBee]

Read around and sounds like it might be the transfer case chain slipping could and one shed some light on this ? From what I have read they say it takes a lot of power to stretch it and being LS swapped it could well have stretched it

Maybe its how you read it, however a chain cannot slip, even if its stretched. It will either jump a tooth or just clank around until it flies off the sprocket. If anything it would be the sprocket that gets wear in the tooth form, and the chain 'might stretch a little', but I would if there is a chain tensioner of sorts it would take that up. If its loose then the slack side is where you would see the noise being generated, or if really loose it would be jumping a cog, however I would think by that stage it would be making a constant noise.

[mudnut]

I've had two transfer cases on my patrol as a result of having to change out the gearbox. Both have had a Transfer Chain that makes a terrible racket, when engine braking.

[Peggy]

Yeah mate replaced the unis.
Yeah jumping a tooth is what I meant, the sound is like something skipping, that’s why I thought cvs hubs or diff but neither of them haven’t taken the diff out to inspect it but there wasn’t any metal shards when I dropped the diff oil.
Also done the transfer case oil about 300kms ago checked it today and it’s already black and smells

[PeeBee]

I have done a tooth in a diff and you certainly know something is wrong, pretty quick. The baffling bit is your comment now about the oil in the transfer case. There isn't anything inside there to discolour the oil I dont think

[mudnut]

First I've heard of black Transfer case oil. Have a look in the owners manual and see what is required. Some models use Autotrans fluid, and some use Gear oil.

[PeeBee]

I wonder if there has been MOLYBOND added in a previous fill or service and this is carry over to fresh oil, assuming it was fresh oil change?

[Peggy]

Yeah I put the red dexton III so very confused how it’s now black after a few hundred kms

[mudski]

You are fine to use 80/90 gear oil in the transfer case if you have manual hubs. Auto hubs need ATF to be used. Somethings definitely amiss though if the oil is black already.

[Peggy]

Well I used the ATF and it has manual locking hubs but surely that wouldn’t be causing this would it ?

[mudnut]

You are fine to use 80/90 gear oil in the transfer case if you have manual hubs. Auto hubs need ATF to be used. Somethings definitely amiss though if the oil is black already.

Yes and no. Mine was issued with Manual hubs but requires ATF.

Wasn't it something to do with the front driveline turning while the oil was cold?

[mudski]

Yes and no. Mine was issued with Manual hubs but requires ATF.

Wasn't it something to do with the front driveline turning while the oil was cold?

Strange. ATf was only used because of the lower viscosity, and thicker oils were tricking the auto hubs into thinking the transfer case was in 4wd.

[mudnut]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?47317-ATF-in-transfer-case&highlight=transfer+case

A bit of deja vu. The link to the other forum gives a good explanation about ATF too.

[Peggy]

Jacked it up and rear tail shaft off doesn’t make the noise so only happens underload