View Full Version : Zd30 no power
Mikefinn
29th May 2020, 08:38 PM
Hey guys just bought my first Nissan patrol hoping to do some off roading and camping with it, but I am having major power problems with it seems like it’s not getting enough fuel into the engine and loosing power, have already changed diesel filter and cleaned the mass air sensor no improvement 😩 all tips appreciated, cheers
Fireblade
29th May 2020, 09:57 PM
Bit more info, is it a common rail zd30 or Di?
Mikefinn
30th May 2020, 11:46 AM
It’s the ST model, direct injection, it’s loosing power going up hills
mudnut
30th May 2020, 01:23 PM
Disconnect the battery for half an hour to reset the ECU. If it still carries on, pop into SCA and get a scan done to see if there is any codes.
Mikefinn
30th May 2020, 02:39 PM
Ya I’ve tried disconnecting the battery already and still same issue after reconnecting, my latest test was testing the voltage out of each port of the MAF so there is a red wire, white wire, black wire, white wire in that order, all wires read correct voltage except for the red one, was getting a reading of 0 volts on that one and it is suppose to give a reading between 1.6 to 2 volts. So maybe this is the issue, does anybody know where this red wire goes to?
Dhuck
30th May 2020, 06:59 PM
Welcome to the forum mate.
mudnut
30th May 2020, 07:33 PM
Download the workshop manual and check out the wiring diagram.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?5390-Nissan-Patrol-GU-Y61-electronic-version-manual-with-SUPP-X-with-CRD-info
Fireblade
30th May 2020, 07:37 PM
I don’t know a lot about Di ones but fuel filters sucking air have been common among the ones I’ve seen. After people replace them they loose the o’ring on top. Not saying that’s to ur issue though also seems the push primer suck air but my experience with Di zd30 is limited to about half a dozen.
Mikefinn
31st May 2020, 11:38 PM
Thanks for all reply’s guys, Thanks for the link mudnut but won’t let me into it, fortunately I already have found a manual so all good, I’ve traced the line all the way back to the ecu and I’ve tested the line (no break in the line) possibly an ecu issue, but there seems to be a relay somewhere in that line so I’m going to try track that down and hopefully that’s my problem rather than the ecu.
mudski
1st June 2020, 07:54 AM
It’s the ST model, direct injection, it’s loosing power going up hills
In what way? Like your dragging a heavy trailer? Or is the power just instantly shutting off?
Any mods done the the motor? Any recent repairs that you know of? Auto? Manual? If auto, is it in overdrive when this happens, If in manual, what gear are you in? What RPM is it happening at? Do you have a boost gauge? EGT gauge? Hard to help with the little info given.
Mikefinn
1st June 2020, 10:58 AM
Hey mate no under no load just instant loss of power no mods that I know of.
Apparently had full engine rebuild in 2019, set of pistons and rings, conrod bearings, head gasket, set of injectors, new sump, new clutch.
It’s a manual and struggles through all the gears, if u keep the boot down in any gear once it gets over 4000 rpm the engine management light comes on, I have a boost gauge and it gradually gets up to 15 psi.
mudski
1st June 2020, 02:02 PM
So if its instant, like the motor is trying to shut down, it sounds like limp mode. These motors are real picky with over boost. Is the intercooler original? Crimped ends on the core, or welded? If they are crimped, even if its not, remove the intercooler and check it for oil spots, particularly on the underside. If it is, the Intercooler is leaking boost. Leaking boost you will lose a fair bit of power. Look at this and report back.
10G
1st June 2020, 05:20 PM
I'm thinking over boost & limp mode.
Get a cheap OBD scanner & the Torque app for your phone and check your boost, that's a cheap convenient way to get a second 'boost' opinion.
mudski
1st June 2020, 09:33 PM
I'm thinking over boost & limp mode.
Get a cheap OBD scanner & the Torque app for your phone and check your boost, that's a cheap convenient way to get a second 'boost' opinion.
Those scanners wont work with the Di motors. ECU talk is the only option. What worked for me on my old Di to overcome the overboost limp mode nightmare was to buy the HPD billet high flow MAF housing. I went from 16psi on the dot hitting limp mode to going to 3 plus psi boost and still no limp mode. Wasn't cheap but I no longer had limp mode issues. I really don't miss the ZD to be honest....
Sprock
1st June 2020, 09:39 PM
Oh come now mudski - it’s the ZD30 that 1st brought us together so there’s some good in em 🤣
mudski
1st June 2020, 09:45 PM
Oh come now mudski - it’s the ZD30 that 1st brought us together so there’s som egos in em 🤣
Yeah true. If it wasn't for the ZD''dirty" I would never have met you!!
Sprock
2nd June 2020, 10:04 AM
See mate there’s a positive in everything
Sprock
2nd June 2020, 10:05 AM
So going by your response - meeting me was a good thing - or I would’ve got a ‘yeah dammit’ response haha
Sprock
2nd June 2020, 10:27 AM
I’m with Mudski, check the intercooler - if it’s an original crimped end style 99.9% chance it’s stuffed , get a welded end type , I got mine off eBay & wasn’t that pricey & still goin strong , also put a piece of clear hose from the filter outlet to the injector pump & check for air bubbles in the fuel . ANY bubbles will cause you grief .
mudski
2nd June 2020, 02:13 PM
So going by your response - meeting me was a good thing - or I would’ve got a ‘yeah dammit’ response haha
Ohh I think we'll just leave it at that? Haha!
10G
2nd June 2020, 02:24 PM
Get a room.
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