just my gq patrol need help with some problems

[lliw180]

hey guys

A wont idel

it starts up but revs up and down and sometimes stalls in my experience thats something electrical i got a new MAF for it to run fine for 30 sec and then die. I sore a video where if you pull the plug on a maf and it stalls that means your maf is working fine witch it dose on the old one.

B headlights

i switch them on i get low beam on the drivers only and high beam on the passenger side only that and the above problem would lead me to believe some one has played with the wiring

C clutch

the clutch works good for the first 10 of driving affter that to get it to move you need to push it flat to the floor nether master or slave cylider are leeking

D brakes

I at 100/90 ks they dont seam to do much but at 50/60 the are some what effective when i pump the brake when its off it goes hard and i cant see any leeks

E whistling sound

i think there is some sort of leek for a vac line

[0-TJ-0]

A. I dont know. Post up your engine type and hopefully someone else might be able to assist.

B. You've checked globes? Checked you get power at the plug for the globes? If the globes and plugs are good it's just matter of tracing the wires. Start at the relay and go from there. Shouldn't* be too serious as both high and low beam are working to some extent.

C. May be related to D. and E. Could be effected by vacuum assist. Could be that either master or slave are knackered internally. If the internals are worn out they will bypass fluid internally and not actuate the clutch properly.

D. Brakes will go hard if you pump them when it's off. They're vacuum assisted, if the engine isn't running you're not creating vacuum. When you run out - hard brakes. Could also be a bung master. Just because it doesn't leak doesn't mean it's okay.

E. Could be anything. Boost leak. Vacuum leak. Exhaust leak. Noisey passenger. But more info on that one will help mate.

All of that is just a bit of a guess with the info you've provided.

[mudnut]

Try bleeding the clutch fluid. When there is air in the system, the fluid can become frothy and not do its job properly.

The stalling can be caused by a big vacuum leak, ( cracked hoses, damaged gasket or hoses put on the wrong place).

The headlight problem could be the switch. As mentioned previously letting us know which patrol and engine you have will help.

Standard GQs never came with headlight relays.

[lliw180]

hey guys thanks for the help min is a TB42 efi i have attached a couple pics the blue thing is not stock i opened that up tonight to find a bit of pipe with a well over size nosel 8108981089

[lliw180]

other pic attached
81090

[0-TJ-0]

I don't really know what that is. First impression was that it might be the pcv or a quick google says something to do with the cold start system? I don't really know anything about these engines. I do know you need to make sure none of that is leaking or drawing air in behind the maf sensor or it won't be able to do its job properly. .

Like I said, I don't know but my first experiment would be to bypass all of that crap and connect the maf directly to the intake and see how it runs.

[lliw180]

ok guys it would turn out that my problem is very simple one of my cav hoses isnt there and i am missing part of the air intake system what nissan call an "air flow duct silencer" see attached was removed. So the pelenum was sucking unregulated air " no wonder it wouldn't idle" im not 100% sure but i think that and the hose that is allrady conected up is ment to get air via the maf. I called Nissan and the cant get the orginal part i had a look on ebay and i can get somthing from a gu i recon may do the job. I wont put any links as im a unsure what admin thinks but ebay patrol air duct and you will find them.

im thinking of making something like a bit of the pipe used for intercoolers from autobarn with 2 nippels for the air lines i will start a new post for this call air ducting 81093

[lliw180]

missing hose81094

[billyj]

looking at the pics someone has made aa total mess of the intake pipe, pcv lines and vaccum hoses, id suspect the reason it wont idle is air leaks. to confirm if you unplug the air flow meter on the outlet of the airbox it should start and run without any of the intake pipe connected.

the air duct silencer itself is not critical but you need to have the pipe sealed between the throttle body and air flow meter with all the vaccum and pcv lines going to the right places.