Bearing Race Installation

[Mcflurry]

Hi guys,

I recently changed the wheel bearings and races in my '09 GU and while inserting the inner bearing race in the hub I noticed it wouldn't go as far down as I thought it would. After a heap of banging and inspecting I decided the race was in as far as possible. Now I've reassembled the lot, I've noticed a few knocks and clicks (which existed before due to radius arm pushes) and I'm worried there is extra noise in there from my wheel bearing change.

Question is.. how would I know now if I had made a mistake when inserting the new race? Would the torquing technique of near 150 ftlb have seated it? Should I expect a lot of noise if the race wasn't seated correctly?

Cheers
MCflurry

[mudski]

If the bearings weren't on far enough I doubt you would be able to do up the hub nut. Plus they only go in so far then stop against the raised section were the hub seal runs. Im not sure if 150ftlb is correct, I've never gone by that, I always tighten until my elbow clicks, or the wheel starts to resist spinning freely, then I back it off a tad, take it for a ten minute test run and re check.

[Cuppa]

If you are unsure there is really only one way to reassure yourself & that is to pull the wheel off & re-check. When knocking in bearings, at least by the method I was taught. Have the hub on a good solid bench, or on a couple of pieces of hardwood on a concrete floor to avoid any 'bounce'. Don't tap the bearings in with a limp wrist, but don't overdo it either. A 4 lb club hammer with a suitable drift (Old bearing race with a slot cut in it is good).Get race started with a few light taps & then a few 'decisive' squarely aimed blows should do the trick. I like to use a piece of hardwood across the top of the old race being used as a drift. Helps to keep things square & avoid accidental damage to the housing. Listen to the sound of the blows, the sound will change when the race is fully home. The edge of the race will be below the surface of the housing.

Cost to re-check is another couple of oil seals & your time.

[Mcflurry]

Thanks gents, I did knock in the new races on a concrete floor with a solid hammer and noticed the thud once the race wouldn't go in anymore but I'm a pretty paranoid bloke.. checking my swivel hubs for oil every 10 minutes now it's sitting in the garage!!!! I take a similar approach as you Mudski.. once the elbow clicks but with age it's starting to click a little sooner than it used to.

[mudski]

Thanks gents, I did knock in the new races on a concrete floor with a solid hammer and noticed the thud once the race wouldn't go in anymore but I'm a pretty paranoid bloke.. checking my swivel hubs for oil every 10 minutes now it's sitting in the garage!!!! I take a similar approach as you Mudski.. once the elbow clicks but with age it's starting to click a little sooner than it used to.

Yeah I have a dodgy tendon in my right shoulder so I have to do it left handed otherwise I get a false reading when torquing the hub nut up. :D If you heard the disticnt change in noise. I think you are pretty good. just jack up the front and spin the wheel and have a feel if its lose at all. If its all good, you have nothing to worry about in my opinion.

[Mcflurry]

Legend thanks Mudski, over the years I've read a heap of stuff you've posted and now I will thank you for all of it at once. Cheers to you, brilliant bugger!

[rusty_nail]

Legend thanks Mudski, over the years I've read a heap of stuff you've posted and now I will thank you for all of it at once. Cheers to you, brilliant bugger!Mate his head is big enough already, don't add fuel to the fire! He is a pretty good bloke though.

Ashame the body parts are out of proportion right Frodo? [emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]

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