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View Full Version : Hot wire IP , so im sure if its IP or electrics ??



Dagwill
4th July 2019, 07:17 PM
Hi, Zd30 Di [2006]
Died while driving, wont start.
Noticed when i turn on the key there is a ticking/buzzing noise coming from IP area, lasts for bit less than a second, then stops. I believe it is possible hotwire the IP thereby ruling out any electrical control problems.
Any help greatly appeciated
Thanks David

mudski
5th July 2019, 08:17 AM
David you have five or so different threads you've created around the same issue. It would be better to keep all it in one I think. then if you resolve it, its easier for members to track if they are chasing the same thing.
You have error codes as stated in one of your threads.

Here is the list of codes and their meanings.
Fault codes
0102 Air Flow Sensor
0103 Coolant temp sender
0104 Vehicle speed sensor
0203 Throttle pedal switch
0208 Cooling Fan control
0301 Engine ECU
0402 Fuel temperature sensor
0403 Throttle pedal position sensor
0406* Intake air volume VNC system
0407 Crankshaft position sensor
0502* Battery voltage
0504 Auto Trans communication line
0701 Injection Pump –cam ring position sensor
0702 Injection Pump –TDC pulse sensor
0703 Injection Pump communication line
0704 Injection Pump –spill valve
0705 Injection Pump –ECU
0706 Injection Pump –spill valve
0707 Injection Pump injection timing control
0802 Engine ECU
0804* Engine ECU
0807 Stop lamp switch
0901 Engine ECU
0902 Engine ECU relay
0903* Engine ECU
0905 Intake air pressure sensor
1003 EGR volume control valve
1004 Injection Pump –fuel cut out system

* These codes do not illuminate the Check Engine warning lamp.

I had 0703 on my old ZD, as mentioned and it meant the pump was terminal. FUBAR, no go, no worky. Unfortunately you will have to replace the IP. There is no point in wasting your time trying to repair it yourself. These pumps have a PCB mounted in a small housing on the pump. I dare say the PCB has had a melt down. Literally. Fairly common issue it used to be. Ring up a pump specialist who sells these pumps and get their take on it. .

Lastly.
Where are you located? I know someone who has a working pump he might be convinced to sell. *cough* rusty_nail *cough*

Dagwill
5th July 2019, 11:23 AM
Thanks mudski for your reply. I will take onboard future posting habbits as you advised.
Maybe i just have to face the bitter facts and pull the IP. My reluctance was mainly due to false hope, and thinking what if I change out the IP when say the only thing wrong was shut off valve staying closed ?
I am in SA and yes I suppose I am looking for another IP.
Thanks.

0-TJ-0
5th July 2019, 12:01 PM
Take it to an expert mate. Get them to diagnose it properly for you.

mudski
5th July 2019, 01:59 PM
Unfortunately I dont think there is a cheap fix here. Either replace the pump with a known working second hand unit, or a reco'ed unit.

Dagwill
5th July 2019, 04:01 PM
Just disconnected the fuel return line from IP. Ign. key OFF and hand pumped primer , I get a dribble of about 3 drops per second. Ign key ON still get a dribble about 3 drops per second.
Any thoughts please

0-TJ-0
5th July 2019, 08:06 PM
Just disconnected the fuel return line from IP. Ign. key OFF and hand pumped primer , I get a dribble of about 3 drops per second. Ign key ON still get a dribble about 3 drops per second.
Any thoughts please

My thoughts are that probably none of it will operate like it should unless the car is running. I wouldn't expect fuel to be pouring out of the return as it sits.

Seriously mate if you don't believe the codes take it to someone to have a look at it. If the pump is indeed gone to the gods they'll tell you quick smart.