Harrop 2300 supercharger to Optimiser 6500

[PeeBee]

New passenger side rocker cover, 2 rocker assy's and gasket sealant on the way from WA - thats the limit of support - bit disappointing, but its better than nothin'. Appears today the leaks were across 3/4 cylinders on the drivers bank and 2/4 on the passenger. Thinking the s/h torque to yieldbolts(suspected) bolts have stretched further under the additional pressure from the s/c. Both Bullet and Brunswick now tell me they fit ARP studbolts for this application - bit late guys to be telling me now. Peanuts. Anyway, friday is looking doubtful to get the beast back, so possibly monday. Does not matter much now we are back into another 7 day lockdown I guess. Heads been wash ground and back with mechanic. Soluble oil coolant affected the radiator hoses - started to permeate the rubber, like seepage. Contact the supplier and seems the batch i bought 2 yrs ago had a chemical compatibility issue which they have since corrected, so the latest coolant I have just purchased has the modified formula and is now 100% compatible with rubber - bloody typical, another 2 radiator hoses and heater hoses need replacement. Supplier offered to send another batch for free, but declined the offer, I don't need it and its more annoying in the scheme of things at the moment.

[PeeBee]

I have been having issues with belt squeal since the beginning of the vee belt to 8 rib multi vee conversion belt drive. mudski put me onto a tool to measure the actual belt tension, which is another way to eliminate if the noise is from a belt drive that is too small for the duty, there is a drive friction issue or the auto tensioner is faulty. Gates make this device and its simplicity, so i have purchased one and await its arrival. i have also included the youtube link as there are two devices, avail and you can also measure vee belt tension with high accuracy instead of using the highly variable 'finger deflection' technique that we all tend to use. The belt alignment issues are resolved and I am now trialling a standard duty gates belt as apposed to the fleetguard to ascertain if there is a difference. The green fleetguard is more rigid in feel than the standard, however does run a lot more noisy - seems i get a distinct 'click' release of the back surface against the smooth idler rollers, which settles down after about 20 mins, however sounds like a bearing is about to let go at times - will see if the standard duty lasts or the fleetguard goes back on .

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/143011685323
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=gates+krikit+belt+tension+tool+youtube&docid=608021185775815221&mid=BF94D684A21D05E8D23CBF94D684A21D05E8D23C&view=detail&FORM=VIRE

[PeeBee]

Krikit belt tensioner arrived today, tested the belt after speaking with the gates engineer about an auto tensioner value for the belt. A table was supplied, attached below which may be of value to others with serpentine belts and Vee belts with manual and auto tensioners. My belt tension is smack in the middle of the range, so happy with that. Also, driveway rpm testing with the standard duty belt didn't exhibit any belt squeal, so big drive tomorrow to test that out under load.
846198462084621

[rusty_nail]

fingers crossed you get it sorted out soon mate!

[PeeBee]

fingers crossed you get it sorted out soon mate!Taking it out for a spin either tomorrow or Friday, looks like it's fixed, better be!!!!

[PeeBee]

OK, fiddling around yesterday, and after speaking with Bullet S/C they dont have a fast idle setup, so knocked up this one as the template. 6 hrs in the making, doesn't look like it but its sort of done, need to finish welding it using the right rods and its done.84631

[PeeBee]

OK, completed the bracket above, what a total details nightmare. Getting the configuration to operate on a crazy offset took hours, but happy with it now, rewelded using the right rods and cleaned up very well. Funny how the only thing I could buy was a solenoid valve, which i did, however it was impossible to fit - s/c as usual complicating the installation.

Next is the in-line fuel heater and temp probes and then the remote fuel shut off assy. Been putting these off as simply sick of getting covered in diesel under the car.

[mudski]

you need to take the Patrol to Darrens place and use his hoist?

[PeeBee]

Yeah, a 5T hoist is going into the shed at Wiseleigh. i have sort of finished under the car excepting the final shut off valve - I have bought some fuel line clamps for this so hope the amount of fuel I coat myself in is limited.

[PeeBee]

Water Meth tank installed and hooked up yesterday. All working as it should, hard to tell if any difference idling in the driveway, even with application setpoint on 100% of the time. Will see how the EGT's are effected when I get it out.

Need to get the a/c gas levels re-checked as the cabin cooling is not what it was before the heads came off, thinking its a gas charge issue with the interchiller.

Jury rigged the installation of the Renogy 3kw inverter - not yet convinced it can be mounted vertically as the mount feet are plastic and held on with 8 small screws. Need to dream about that a bit longer.

Renogy dual battery unit was only intermittently charging or cycling whilst the car was running, 120secs on, 600secs off, so another gremlin to resolve i guess.

Belt alignment issues look like they are resolved and no belt squeal. Hoping 2022 is a good clean reliable year.

[PeeBee]

OK, took the beast out today for a 2hr squirt. A/C decided to give up the ghost, so have to get that checked out, maybe a gas issue. water Meth system drops the EGT's by around 40 - 50 deg it seems at 100khr. Hard to really tell as the gauges are subject to some inaccuracy. The motor sounds different though and its runs smoother also. Apart from that, no belt squeal, and belt drift looks like its resolved. Renogy charge controller issue appears to have been temperature related as its working fine now.

Revs at 1625rpm@100kmhr, egts circa 200degC. Radiator on temp sits around the 84degC and when it climbs to say 95 I hit the spray bar and it takes about 15 secs before the temps drop again, so thats a good sign also.

Second diesel fuel heater installed, was leaking fuel by the time I got home. I pulled the first one apart and it appears to have been leaking from the thermo switch insert which is a metal plug pushed into the plastic body. Not happy, another round of emails back to the USA.

[poindexter]

looks to me that things are working out finally for you PB.
good to hear that the engine is smoother, thats got to be a good thing.
your rpm at 100kmh is remarkably low for the gearing, you'd be happy with that outcome too.
this year might be the time to enjoy....

[PeeBee]

looks to me that things are working out finally for you PB.
good to hear that the engine is smoother, thats got to be a good thing.
your rpm at 100kmh is remarkably low for the gearing, you'd be happy with that outcome too.
this year might be the time to enjoy....

Lets hope so, how is your journey proceeding?

[PeeBee]

Second diesel heater leaking, clearly from the flange construction, not the barbs, changed the hoses and clamps and 15 secs after starting the engine the heater starts weeping at the joint. I have already bought a different style at higher price now as this one is failing I believe due to the high lift pump pressure of 13psig at idle. Maybe this unit is for applications without a lift pump? Bit annoying, but another learning, wasnt that cheap either, circa $100USD, so should have worked.

[poindexter]

Lets hope so, how is your journey proceeding?

the journey is at this stage rather slow,
with COVID and a family member passing away, the Ute has been on the back burner.

but, 'tis a new year, and now its time to press on.
did the drivers door with the sound deadener, now onto the passenger side.

had a bit of a drama with the rpm sensor on the engine being the wrong kind, but all sorted now.

[PeeBee]

the journey is at this stage rather slow,
with COVID and a family member passing away, the Ute has been on the back burner.

but, 'tis a new year, and now its time to press on.
did the drivers door with the sound deadener, now onto the passenger side.

had a bit of a drama with the rpm sensor on the engine being the wrong kind, but all sorted now.

Sorry to hear about your loss Ralph. Where did you end up sourcing the two wire sensor from? I found a supplier in China however it was a major drama getting the items - took months to arrive.

[poindexter]

got the sensor from Dewars, arrived in 5 days I think

[MudRunnerTD]

OK, took the beast out today for a 2hr squirt. A/C decided to give up the ghost, so have to get that checked out, maybe a gas issue. water Meth system drops the EGT's by around 40 - 50 deg it seems at 100khr. Hard to really tell as the gauges are subject to some inaccuracy. The motor sounds different though and its runs smoother also. Apart from that, no belt squeal, and belt drift looks like its resolved. Renogy charge controller issue appears to have been temperature related as its working fine now.

Revs at 1625rpm@100kmhr, egts circa 200degC. Radiator on temp sits around the 84degC and when it climbs to say 95 I hit the spray bar and it takes about 15 secs before the temps drop again, so thats a good sign also.

Second diesel fuel heater installed, was leaking fuel by the time I got home. I pulled the first one apart and it appears to have been leaking from the thermo switch insert which is a metal plug pushed into the plastic body. Not happy, another round of emails back to the USA.

Wow! 1625rpm at 100kms. Sounds like a Diesel Locomotive mate. just chugging along. From 1625 how is the power deliver curve? does it burst from there or lags up to 2200 and then takes off well?

[PeeBee]

Wow! 1625rpm at 100kms. Sounds like a Diesel Locomotive mate. just chugging along. From 1625 how is the power deliver curve? does it burst from there or lags up to 2200 and then takes off well?

No lag at all, hit the peddle and it takes off all the way to the redline if need be. I drive it fairly gently to be honest, keeping an eye on the egts and the fuel flowrate, which is quite brutal at WOT. Easy to punch hard all day, but going to pay for it at the pump. Max boost is 16psi, which is a safe limit I understand - would be a mental play thing above that - have trouble at time in the bush with its response and subsequent pants filling outcome! Its not a racer, certainly many other stock 4wd's would smash it from an off the line acceleration perspective, but is simple, I can fix it and keep it going and it doesn't fill the skyline with black smaoke under load or cruising down the road like its earlier N/A version or the 2.8 TD used to.

Played around looking at the a/c and I think its the charge load put in when the heads were done - too low. The setup for the interchiller requires some 'back to basics' gas loading apparently, its not a plug and fill to relief situation, so I will try and get that resolved this week before returning to site - provide the Omicron/Delta situation in QLD does not go nuclear by sunday.

I have been watching your build with interest also, astounded at the bravery screwing around with so much of a brand spanking vehicle - unlike my own that is 1997 vintage and I dont care what or how I attack it!!

[MudRunnerTD]

Cheers mate, is a bit of a mission. But I'm enjoying getting to know the new car.

What psi have you got the SC set at? That then compounds to the Turbo yeah? 1 turbo not 2? That's right yeah?

[PeeBee]

Cheers mate, is a bit of a mission. But I'm enjoying getting to know the new car.

What psi have you got the SC set at? That then compounds to the Turbo yeah? 1 turbo not 2? That's right yeah?

Just a Harrop 2300 running the 16psi pulley. I would love the twin turbo feed like on the Banks test Motor, but frankly this engine isn't built for that kind of HP. The Banks engine runs twin turbo's into a s/c, and makes around 1200hp.

[PeeBee]

Finger gotta itchy today after 2 weeks in a nightmare project stage so bought a Marks 4x4 hydro booster to go over the Willwoods. Expect a significant braking upgrade moving forward. The barge is still quit heavy despite efforts to trim it down.

[Cremulator]

I will watch this development with curious anticipation!

[poindexter]

Finger gotta itchy today after 2 weeks in a nightmare project stage so bought a Marks 4x4 hydro booster to go over the Willwoods. Expect a significant braking upgrade moving forward. The barge is still quit heavy despite efforts to trim it down.

Hi Pee Bee

Have you thought about the aux electric pumps capacity to run the steering and the brakes?
I talked to Ultimate Power Steering, and they said you'd need 12l/m flow and the electric pumps generally provide 3ishl/m, as I looked at replacing the engine driven pump with an electric pump.

[PeeBee]

Hi Pee Bee

Have you thought about the aux electric pumps capacity to run the steering and the brakes?
I talked to Ultimate Power Steering, and they said you'd need 12l/m flow and the electric pumps generally provide 3ishl/m, as I looked at replacing the engine driven pump with an electric pump.

Are you referring to the Astra electric unit I carry as an emerg breakdown device? I am sure it will be fine. I cant see a need for 12L/min thru the power steering system anyway, but no doubt there are others with alternate viewpoints. The amount of liquid volume is actually captive within the system - bit confused by the question to be honest!

[poindexter]

Yes, I was referring to the Astra pump. It's not a viewpoint thing, just a flow in l/min thing. Wanting to know if the Astra unit will drive both at the same time. Do you know the specs of the Astra pump?. I'm looking at replacing the engine driven P/S pump with this. They seem readily available and cheap.

[PeeBee]

Yes, I was referring to the Astra pump. It's not a viewpoint thing, just a flow in l/min thing. Wanting to know if the Astra unit will drive both at the same time. Do you know the specs of the Astra pump?. I'm looking at replacing the engine driven P/S pump with this. They seem readily available and cheap.

I don't know the specs but there must exist a listing somewhere. I selected it because its used by a lot of people building hotrods and looking to clean up the engine bay. I would assume it would be sufficient. When I looked at the Hydraboost I could not find a mention about system flowrate or capacity. Working on the assumption that the brakes and PS are closed loop, and the amount of fluid required to operate the actuator, I can't see an issue with the standard saginaw pump - I guess the question is the flowrate sufficient to operate or will the PS slowdown or the brakes fade?. If you find the specs on it and the electric I guess you have your answer. I would think if it works for the PS then the pissant amount for the brakes will be fine, again the system is closed loop once filled to the level and oil being incompressible would think it ok. Even 3L/min is a lot of fluid, and its not like its escaping from the loop - anyway thats my 'impression, maybe not the answer? I have not tried my system out, its rigged up with the hoses and its there to get me out of the bush if the saginaw fails, even slowly.

[jff45]

If you look at the pressure reserve reservoir on the hydroboost unit it doesn't look like it would hold more than maybe 200 ml considering there's also a piston & spring in the cylinder and it should be good for a couple of brake applications if the pump fails. That suggests it doesn't need a lot for the brakes.

I saw it was suggested that you might feel the occasional hard spot in the steering when manoeuvring and braking at the same time but I've never felt it with my installation.

[PeeBee]

Finished the hydraulic oil cooler assy today, wired up the fan with external switch. Some would say it was satisfying, nah, another PIA job to get to the end point. Sorted out the air compressor setup and just need to do the final fitting sealing. Sorting out the power cable to the rear pod tomorrow, finally worked out how to run the 16mm cable from front to rear without snagging the exhaust manifold.
Interchiller modified assy with second pump is waiting for the new brass gear pump to arrive, checked the hoses today and they are not crimped, so its simply a piss poor pumping capability of the davies craig unit - another lesson repeated.
Should be ready to mount the canopy next week and free it from its home of 12 months in Yarra Glen, then commence the wiring to get it ready for operation. Getting closer by the mm every day.

[PeeBee]

If you look at the pressure reserve reservoir on the hydroboost unit it doesn't look like it would hold more than maybe 200 ml considering there's also a piston & spring in the cylinder and it should be good for a couple of brake applications if the pump fails. That suggests it doesn't need a lot for the brakes.

I saw it was suggested that you might feel the occasional hard spot in the steering when manoeuvring and braking at the same time but I've never felt it with my installation.

Rounding back on this conversation, I have had mine on the road now and cannot detect any deficiency in either steering or brakes. The hydroboost over the willwoods is great, very firm and progressive and pulls up far better than anything to date i have had. The Astra remains as the energ backup system, however probably one of those things that will never get used - with luck.

[jff45]

Rounding back on this conversation, I have had mine on the road now and cannot detect any deficiency in either steering or brakes. The hydroboost over the willwoods is great, very firm and progressive and pulls up far better than anything to date i have had. The Astra remains as the energ backup system, however probably one of those things that will never get used - with luck.

I'm still happy with mine, works well once the ECB pads have warmed up. I've also now fitted a VF Commodore UP28 electric vacuum pump for the factory diff lock so I can get rid of the vacuum pump on the alternator.

[PeeBee]

I'm still happy with mine, works well once the ECB pads have warmed up. I've also now fitted a VF Commodore UP28 electric vacuum pump for the factory diff lock so I can get rid of the vacuum pump on the alternator.

John, the Willwood pads were a shitshow to begin with, needed to be bedded in and the first corner out of the garage the car 'slid forward with full brakes, frightening. Anyway, after they were 'conditioned they stopped ok, well better than the twin pot calipers. The hydroboost finishes it off for me , very similar to a passenger car performance, not a bit heavy truck. I purchased a Proflow vac pump to run as a spare before I went Hydroboost, cant find it, so bought another smaller vac pump as the spear, but I only have cruise control and clutch booster under vac, so can live with the chev vac pump going out.

[PeeBee]

Getting closer, inch by inch. Ran the big wire down to the back today, sheathed it in 3/4" heater hose for mechanical protection, spent a good 2 hrs resolving a potential hot spot where Brunswick have shoe horned the chev into the engine bay, but close to the brake line. Sheathed the brake line in 1100 degC super insulation, then installed 4 layers of high temp fibregalss aluminised matting over that, and installed some spacer blocks under the interchiller lines to create an air gap where the EGT probe - also insulated in the 1100 degC sheath, passes under it.
The details take the time.
Piped up the hydraulic cooler yesterday and let the sealant 24hrs to cure, ran it up and no leaks. the cooler hold a full half volume of the tank which was a surprise, so next job is to top the hydraulic reservoir up, out with the tailshaft - nothing like great access on this build. Resealed the services box under the tray, all ready to pick the pod up from MB on Wednesday and bring it home. (waiting for the wife to go out then transfer a layer of storage to her side of the garage so the new truck with canopy will fit, working on a whole new level of sneaky!)
Omce home there is maybe another 60hrs of electrical and final fit out to complete the pod. Heading back to the mine at the end of next week for two weeks, so program gets a break.

[jff45]

John, the Willwood pads were a shitshow to begin with, needed to be bedded in and the first corner out of the garage the car 'slid forward with full brakes, frightening. Anyway, after they were 'conditioned they stoffed ok, well better than the twin pot calipers. The hydroboost finishes it off for me , very similar to a passenger car performance, not a bit heavy truck. I purchased a Proflow vac pump to run as a spare before I went Hydroboost, cant find it, so bought another smaller vac pump as the spear, but I only have cruise control and brake booster under vac, so can live with the chev vac pump going out.

My factory cruise control, which I've now removed, has its own little vacuum pump in the unit on the firewall.

[PeeBee]

The beast is home with the canopy on, thanks to MB and his trusty shed and tractor. Boost pump developed a faultand essentially stopped the car, think I will be looking at a different make, the Aeroflow has done a good job - need to ensure its not electrical first, as the pressure was wavering on the fuel pressure gauge and then stopped boosting all together. It was given a rest for 5 minutes and has not missed a beat since - dont know yet.

[PeeBee]

Swapped out the Aeroflow Lift Pump to the carter Black today, was a journey of differences, but 4 hrs later all done with new mounting configuration. I have heard a lot of people saying the carter Black was a noisy pump, would disagree, its quieter than the Aeroflow, better vibration isolation , sits at 12PSIG at idle as the Aeroflow does, and does not drop under acceleration, so happy days, still have a spare Aeroflow if this dies out the back of nowhere. Couple of minor tidy up, still need to rsolve the interchiller circuit, I changed it on the advice of the supplier and it isn't performing - bit more thought required. Apart from that , looking great. Back to the mine to 2 weeks so in a good place I think.

[PeeBee]

Slider kit finally arrived after 6 weeks - they must have been busy. Looks a good kit, precision made, all notched, just need to weld then paint, happy days. Going to plate top and bottom using the left over tray checker plate87999

[PeeBee]

2 hrs transferring 4l of hydraulic fluid into the hydraulic winch tank, holy shit that pumping is hard work under the car. reconfigured the interchiller pump circuit back to standard, still a few minor corrections and tidy up tomorrow. Starting on sliders after that.

[BrazilianY60]

I would expect a weld on kit to be just a bunch of loose parts, that seems like it even comes tacked into the correct positions. Awesome.

[PeeBee]

I would expect a weld on kit to be just a bunch of loose parts, that seems like it even comes tacked into the correct positions. Awesome.

No just the packing, all loose, tacked them together today, took 20 mins, after spending 7 hrs fighting with the interchiller pump, that has now been 100% confirmed as dead - pumped at 40lpm with a forced inlet and shot water across the road maybe 6m, but hooked up with a hose system thru the heat exchangers and zero - reckon the seals on the impellar are shot - waiting to hear if a kit is avail - hope so, pump was close to $1000 at the time.88002

[MB]

Looking Great Philstar [emoji106][emoji106]
Only my Nuffy opinion for weight saving Da Beaut Beast Brother [emoji123][emoji123]
There in theory could be another way instead of utilising full length leftover checker plate steel plates both top and bottom (totally understand your forward HC driving snagging smooth deflection log logic)
I believe/hope leaving your new sliders undersides open for cleaning/rust purposes could benefit from this wacky theory [emoji51]
Weld the beaut kit fully up, yes, weld atop leftover checker plate [emoji106][emoji106]
In theory, again, simply weld in short flat bars say 30mm wide x say 3mm thick x slider width underneath @ say 45 degree deflection bars/plates at every round RHS intersection:

https://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2024/04/181.jpg

Best MB AutoCad/Solidworks capabilities [emoji23][emoji3590]

EDIT: Apologies Philstar, meant CHS pipe [emoji22][emoji23]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BrazilianY60]

Or both sides to account for when he is reversing.

[PeeBee]

Thanks Mark, yes that will work also, sealing it up has some issues if the welds crack or I dont do a good job on the checkerplate. I dont need the weight as you mention. Back at the computer again after 4 days off, so into the soup for now. Looking at some troubleshooting on the interchiller pump, might be voltage related - going to try with a very locat battery and with luck it starts pumping. Can you believe there is no after sales support by way of seals or pump kits for a $1000 pump - answer coming back is bin it and buy another one - its run maybe 30 hrs max. Appalling.

[PeeBee]

Or both sides to account for when he is reversing.

Another good optimisation, thanks.

[PeeBee]

Sorted the Interchiller pump out today, conductor size and volt drop. Rigged up a 200a/hr lithium and short heavy cables, fired the pump up, guaranteed 40lpm by the flowmeter thru the system, happy days, just needs some more heavy duty wiring and relay to resolve completely - one more bee sting sorted. Happy happy days I can assure you.

[MB]

Or both sides to account for when he is reversing.

Perfect Point BZ Brother [emoji3590][emoji3590]
Different Cultures I’m assuming, uz Aussie’s only ever go forward, never backwards….unless we are suckered into LandCrab Tradie Ute Territory’s [emoji51][emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BrazilianY60]

LOL, gold mate!
Usually you only think of going backwards is when you are already stuck, LOL.

[PeeBee]

Interchiller wiring finally resolved, bigger cables, big relay, runs beautifully, see if it delivers, swapping out the water or glycol this arvo.

[PeeBee]

Looks like I am up for a new or remodelled interchiller tank. The location of the tank outlet was deliberately put at 1/3 off the bottom of the tank to reduce any drawdown of crap into the pump inlet. I am now finding the available head above the tank outlet is absolutely zero tolerance between 40lpm lpm flow and 12-18lpm fluctuating if the water level drop by as little as 15mm. I have been looking at flow meters and current draw and temperatures achieved and they are all over the place.

Anyway its not a massive issue in the scheme of things, either make a new tank or whip the existing out and add a lower outlet - just time once again.

So with the flow at 40lpm and the full divert of the water flow thru the interchiller(gas/water heat exchanger) I am getting a good heat reduction in the inlet air post the w2A unit in the inlet manifold. I am able to wash off up to 60 degC from the inlet air post compression, which is great. Makes a big difference in 40 degC days to cruising egt's. Still not great for low range crawling stuff , but the water spray bar on the radiator works very well to keep those blips in check with minimal water consumption.

[MudRunnerTD]

No just the packing, all loose, tacked them together today, took 20 mins, after spending 7 hrs fighting with the interchiller pump, that has now been 100% confirmed as dead - pumped at 40lpm with a forced inlet and shot water across the road maybe 6m, but hooked up with a hose system thru the heat exchangers and zero - reckon the seals on the impellar are shot - waiting to hear if a kit is avail - hope so, pump was close to $1000 at the time.88002

Ghee mate! I reckon that bloke who made those for you was scared of the dark! There is a few extra noggins in there! I see Heavy...Is it Tube or Pipe? I smooth plated the underside so they slider over mud etc and the checker doesnt jag on any edges. Checka on top, smooth on the bottom.

[MudRunnerTD]

2 hrs transferring 4l of hydraulic fluid into the hydraulic winch tank, holy shit that pumping is hard work under the car. reconfigured the interchiller pump circuit back to standard, still a few minor corrections and tidy up tomorrow. Starting on sliders after that.

I just did the front and rear Diff oils and the Gearbox and Transfer case fluid changes on the GQ, the Diff Oil is ridiculously thick and bloody hard work. I bought one of these a couple of years ago and dont pull it out often but bloody Hell! Game Changer mate! It made very short work of it.

88010

I had a small one and it was Horrible to use, i think mine is a 2lt one. Awesome. When you need it you need it.

[PeeBee]

I just did the front and rear Diff oils and the Gearbox and Transfer case fluid changes on the GQ, the Diff Oil is ridiculously thick and bloody hard work. I bought one of these a couple of years ago and dont pull it out often but bloody Hell! Game Changer mate! It made very short work of it.

88010

I had a small one and it was Horrible to use, i think mine is a 2lt one. Awesome. When you need it you need it.

Thanks for reminding me Darren, I have one of those also, bugger, would have been done in 15 minutes. Those tom thumb units are a bitch.

[PeeBee]

Ghee mate! I reckon that bloke who made those for you was scared of the dark! There is a few extra noggins in there! I see Heavy...Is it Tube or Pipe? I smooth plated the underside so they slider over mud etc and the checker doesnt jag on any edges. Checka on top, smooth on the bottom.

The kits are optioned up like crazy, simply select which one you want, some are twice the complexity. Its all 4mm pipe and the only weakness V the strength is there are 3 mounts , so I have purchased another two chassis mounts to make the bugger immovable. Going to crank my new - well unused for 3 yrs Mig out of the garage and lace into it on the weekend. I was over at the shed today and there is plenty of checkerplate over there, will see if I go the plate both sides V MB sneaky angle deflectors

[PeeBee]

Finally connected the electrical feed to the bank of lithium's in the pod, turned on the 10Kw inverter and plugged in the 240V 15amp lunchbox welder, ran it at 100amps for about 3 mins continuous and its a winner - I mean it should be but I have had failures in the past trying to do this as well!! Runs a beautiful steady state bead, no issue, very pleased. The volt drop from main battery feed to the rear is 0.25V so will see what it will take to reduce this, however with the BCDC chargers I am sure they will compensate via their charge algorithms I suspect.

[PeeBee]

I dont know what or who is screening these posts , but this is a post made TODAY and its been deleted or relegated to a non existent post today - WTF is the point of contributing if the filter deletes the post - starting to lose interest to be honest. If the traffic content does not meet the narrative, let me know and I will fade into obscurity and not make the effort.

[Plasnart]

I dont know what or who is screening these posts , but this is a post made TODAY and its been deleted or relegated to a non existent post today - WTF is the point of contributing if the filter deletes the post - starting to lose interest to be honest. If the traffic content does not meet the narrative, let me know and I will fade into obscurity and not make the effort.

Oi Phil, there’s heaps of weird siht happening at the moment. Don’t be taking anything to heart right now mate. For the last 2 weeks the forum has been glitchy and I’m having issues with seeing past posts. Something’s going on mate, and your input is brilliant. Just take a breath and hope the boss can sort it. I’m bloody hopping it’s not hacking.

[mudnut]

Oi Phil, there’s heaps of weird siht happening at the moment. Don’t be taking anything to heart right now mate. For the last 2 weeks the forum has been glitchy and I’m having issues with seeing past posts. Something’s going on mate, and your input is brilliant. Just take a breath and hope the boss can sort it. I’m bloody hopping it’s not hacking.

Second that, Phil. "What's New" isn't always showing stuff as it should.

[BrazilianY60]

Keep posting mate, I am always keen to see the updates on your nice rig! It is a software thing from an automated software upgrade according to AB. He has reverted most of the things back to original software version, so stay here with us!

[PeeBee]

OK guys, I agree the platform has had some issues lately, all good, could not make sense of it after a full day in the Zoo with the primates.

[PeeBee]

Today I sorted out a coolant leak behind the S/C manifold, bloody utilux clips and such a range of clamps that do and don't tighten adequately. Ran the cables for the solar panels thru the pod wall, and mounted the Codan Voltage booster to give it a full 14V on transmit - makes a difference for sure.

Now, I am having some issues on the charging front.

The CTEK charger is hooked up to the Optima under the bonnet, currently boost charging at 14.7V into an AGM. I run the feed cable down the car to the pod where it goes into a Renogy 50amp DCDC charge controller. From here the power 'should' go to the bank of Lithiums - 400a/hr, but I am not seeing the float voltage rise at all. I have the cable running initially thru a 3 posn switch, so I can isolate everything in the pod, or switch to the Renogy or go straight into the Lithiums. I have a 300amp alternator, so thought I would run a big current when running the coffee m/c or induction tops or the welder. The Renogy does not appear to have a lithium selection mode, its maybe 5 yrs old. I do have a later one as a spare already mounted, maybe that does, but the only thing I can deduce is the charge voltage to the Lithiums is reduced to 14.5V and the AGM setting is at 14.7, so would think it still should be charging. I also have tried this charge check running to either of the Renogy or straight thru with no voltage rise - I am starting to think the 3 posn isolator is faulty - its an expensive Blueseas one, and should be fine. Any ideas? Unfortunately the only connection I cant get to easily is the terminal end of the charge cable going inside the 3 posn isolator - will check that tomorrow. I think its sounding like the isolator?

Only other thing I am thinking is I have the charge cable on one of the output cables - unsure what i would see in that scenario? Need to have another look tomorrow - would be a stupid mistake if that happened.

[PeeBee]

Wife flew to China today with one of my daughter to look at old pots or something, wasnt really listening, anyway cracked on with the sliders today between meetings and dealing with retards, made some good progress, will pain underside tomorrow then look at the chassis clamp mounts, bit of a hybris assy between sliders and side steps8807088069 And forgot to say I am a very delicious man.

[BrazilianY60]

wasn't really listening
:smileyvault-cute-bi



between meetings and dealing with retards
Hahahaha! And I have to "listen" to this 8am before starting my day with meetings on the schedule, LOL.