Harrop 2300 supercharger to Optimiser 6500

[PeeBee]

Sounds like you do have the spacers then, just strange that all my bolts dropped in.

Spent some time "optimising" the engine location, happy with where is sits, now to see if the hood will shut!
Doing the fuel lines, hydoboost and seeing how the shifter will work.
Has been slow progress so far, however that has allowed me to look into some other areas that need sorting, like the interchiller etc.
Where did you get your 8rib pulleys from? I know Leroy did the crank, but what about the others.

BD supplied the other pulleys. The s/c pulley i would go direct to Bullet. Leroy did the crank as above. I would get a price off both these guys in hind sight especially as you are doing the build, not them. If you are going the interchiller route, I would suggest mounting the heat exchanger in as accessible a location as possible - just makes installation easier. Also, the mount brackets are not up to a 4wd application - 3mm alumimium angle - so you will have to beef this up. I would also ask for extensions to the mounting studs that come off the interchiller - their length is based on the 3mm aluminium bracket - I would ask for at least a 20mm extension

[PeeBee]

Been stuck inside looking after a very sick dog for the past 2 days, so today launched into the remaining hoses on the interchiller. 3 hours later and 2 FU's, one hose done - then moved to hose no,2 and wrong fitting supplied - seems the bulkhead fitting is an absolute oddball, so off to the a/c guy for that one as well - that's 3 custom fittings.

Then decided to swap out the oil cooler behind the grill with a different shape unit, ah yes, lets get screwed up again - different fittings, so down to PIRTEK and $120 later, arrived home and commenced the nightmare of new mounting brackets and hose fit-up. Finally got it all back together after what seemed like 100 changes, then drove the truck into the garage only to notice a huge trail of diesel. I am guessing but suspect its a return line hose that I have knocked off whilst wrestling with the first series of interchiller hoses - by then, could not care, so parked it up, washed the driveway down and came inside . Can't say a massive step forward, but it is progress. Oh, and the headlights including high beam have now decided to start working - life is fully of surprises at the moment.

Also noticed the vac assist had disappeared, checked the gauge on the vac tank and nothing. Looked down and found the belt slipping on the pulley. Smaller nose pulley must have pushed the take up to its limit, plus the 6 rib belt probably stretched a bit - so off to find the next size down I guess.

[PeeBee]

Good day today, finished all the other hoses, ready for the a/c guy to weave his magic. Could not find the a/c clutch wire, have totally given up - he will have to run another one. Finished off the oil cooler, happy now it does not sit in front of the condensers. Hooked up the stage 2 solenoid kit for the interchiller. ran and tested the w2a pump, just want to add the speed controller and flowmeter before filling the system. Fuel leak last night turned out to be a return line reefed from an injector - too 60 secs to resolve, all good.80823
Chased down an 8 rib belt to suit the smaller nose pulley - like rocking horse do-do in the size rang, but finally gates tracked down a couple, and will have them tomorrow arvo with luck, ten power brakes and clutch will return.

[PeeBee]

Two steps forward, two steps back. Replacement belt arrived today, too short, and no other lengths in between, so threw the 8 ply belt on of the original length and will see how that lasts.

Filled up the water to air circuit with antifreeze, ran it up, leaks out of the flowmeter connections - they have BSPP thread and should be BSPT - so a couple of hours sorting that out. wired up the pump, fired it up and running at a system pressure of 7psi and 3LPM - hmmm, bit short of the 50-60lpm at 7psi on the pump curve. Tong tested the motor, pulling 7amps. All hoses fine, no kinks or restrictions. Rang Davis Craig, asked a million questions, no idea, will think about it overnight. I think its the wrong pump. Looking like the EMP pump is going to get a nod, but expensive. 40lpm @30psi guaranteed. Off to the a/c guy tomorrow to give him the heads up for the job ahead, now scheduled for next roster break. The replacement pump needs to be in place before the a/c charge also, so I am guessing its looking like a May 5 booking - so frustrating.

Tomorrow I will hook up the water injection system.

[PeeBee]

Mixed bag day. Met with the a/c workshop, nothing was a problem. truck booked in for next Tuesday to make the funky fittings, run a new power line to the a/c compressor - he laughed about my 'losing it'. Only snare might be the timing of my daughter giving birth, so will see how that pans out - she might have to wait until the truck comes back!

Resolved the inadequate water pump issue, manufacturer agreed to take it back and the seller agreed to take it back and even pay the return freight - DDI auto - great mob. Placed the order on the super pump today, lands in Aust circa April 30. Its a totally different config to the original, so suspect I will be up for another custom header tank. Pump draws 25amp and delivers a guaranteed 30lpm thru 3/4" lines or 40lpm thru 1" lines. My system is already configured for 3/4 so will see how that goes - can always upgrade down the track for the price of some hose and fittings.

Mounted the water injection pump, ran power and hoses from cabin into the engine bay, few hours more work on this tomorrow especially to set up the boost injection curve, I am running an AEM system with no black boxes apart from the injection setpoints, signal comes off the vac line to the boost gauge.

Need to buy a new boost gauge - was running a 15psi unit and I full scaled it today and its a rooted now - will buy a 0-30psi next. One of the neighbours made comment about the 'noise' coming down the road as I approached - luv it!!!

[PeeBee]

Another day of progress, been waiting for the call regards the new babe, but it doesn't want to come out amongst this Covid-19 stuff.

Plumbed up the water injection system, and powered it up, didn't get it out for a try. Tee-ing into the boost line was fun - not - didn't have the right size tee - probably did at some stage - its hiding in the garage like everything else I suspect. Anyway, all ready to roll.

Finished off the Codan installation and that's working as it should. Pulled out the custom tank and davis craig pump, now 'dreaming about what to do with the avail space when the new pump arrives at the end of the month.8083780838

[PeeBee]

Tidied up the garage tonight as the wife does not want her car in tomorrows storm, and bugger me, found the tee piece I knew I had for the vac line. Unbelieve it.

Was reading up the manual tonight trying to decode a blinking red light and then realised its the low water level sensor light - well, the kit never came with a water level sensor did it - so how can it work if the controller doesn't get a high water level feedback signal - god almighty, what is wrong with these people, another item incomplete and totally in-operable. Jumped on line and bought one as simply not worth taking my time to explain and understand it for some supplier. Now the challenge - yes, there is always a challenge - is to integrate it into the water circuit, which is not configured for this device - aaarrrggghhh.

[PeeBee]

Leisurely start today. Finished off the Codan installation, needed to run a fresh cable to the auto tuner. Sorted out the sat phone mount, and made a mount bracket for the PX-07 air compressor so it sits under the second row seat behind the driver - opposite side to the water injection pump. Resolved the fault with the pump also - blown fuse.

Getting closer and the pile of boxes in the study is getting smaller!8085880859

[PeeBee]

Crawled in from the garage after another day of Covid-19 isolation and got hit with the question "Do you know how much you have spent on that truck?" No idea, was the answer, but 'SHE' is starting to add it all up I suspect to use at an appropriate time! The only box left on the floor in the study is the 12V electric vac pump, so happy days.

Todays hitlist is all electrical
1) Difflock feed - disappeared
2) interior light feed over windscreen - disappeared
3) shuroo re-wire with regulated supply
4) roofrack lights - disappeared

[poindexter]

remember: happy wife, happy life......

[PeeBee]

Difflocks back on line, Shuroo back on line, ran a feed to an additional fuse box to marshal all the instrument light power feeds - instead of scotch locking wires upon wires. Installed new bonnet stoppers. A.C man tomorrow, getting closer.

[poindexter]

I'm trying to remember what tire size and diff ratios you are running, however I can't recall.
In my rig, due to the H260 rear diff, the lowest numerical diff ratio I can run is 4:11.
The sweet spot is supposed to be 1800rpm at your nominated cruise speed, which in my case is ~100kph, with stock tires (265/75x16)

[PeeBee]

I am running 33r10.5r15 3.9 diff ratio Its been so long since it was on the freeway I cant recall the rpm, but am sure its around the 1950 - 2000rpm

[jack]

[QUOTE=PeeBee;801141]Crawled in from the garage after another day of Covid-19 isolation and got hit with the question "Do you know how much you have spent on that truck?" No idea, was the answer, but 'SHE' is starting to add it all up I suspect to use at an appropriate time! /[QUOTE]

Looks like more cushions coming your way Phil

[PeeBee]

[QUOTE=PeeBee;801141]Crawled in from the garage after another day of Covid-19 isolation and got hit with the question "Do you know how much you have spent on that truck?" No idea, was the answer, but 'SHE' is starting to add it all up I suspect to use at an appropriate time! /[QUOTE]

Looks like more cushions coming your way Phil

You can laugh Jack, because its probably true. I was down at the local opposite lock store today doing 'essential business that took me out of isolation, and was talking to a guy that shaded my efforts I am sure. He has a 79 series dual cab l/c and it is an absolute work of art and fitted with 'everything', and he is looking at a chassis stretch and taking the custom tray box off and starting again so the south African roof top tent can sit flush with the roof - only because its so tall, it actually stays garaged at Opposite lock because it cant fit thru the garage door. He said his wife is belly aching about the amount of money he has spent on the toy and she could be living in a mansion if not for his spending on the truck - classic reply, ' well go out and find a mansion, hopefully with someone in it to pay for it as I am doing what gives me happiness not something to covert" - Luv it!!!

[PeeBee]

Truck back from the a/c guy, fittings all sorted, a/c wire returned - but in a different format to original. Just need to take the grinder to the back of the grill to remove some plastic to clear the electric fan, and then wait for the pump to arrive so the surge tank can be finalised - again - third tank so far and going to be the last. Working thru the detail now for the air tank under the midlle seat - have the tank, but ports a bit small so will weld some 3/8" sockets into the ends.

[PeeBee]

Took a break from work today and fixed the overhead interior light that had stopped working - had pos terminal on the neg - yep. Sorted out the instrument light feed so everything is illuminated when lights are on, installed the new Sat Phone antenna and ran cable to handset, waiting on the GPS module to complete the set-up. Drilled larger port holes into the air tank, waiting for the NPT inserts to arrive to weld into the tank. Need to chase down the feed to the clock - that's disappeared as well.

[PeeBee]

Another couple of small jobs down. Ran a new supply to the roof lights and installed an MFJ voltage booster for the HF - boosts voltage to 13.8V and 40amp avail so the radio has max grunt on transmit. Clock tomorrow and with luck the cruise control - unit has power at the steering wheel so thats a good start. Waiting for new air receiver to arrive to fit next to the compressor under the middle seat. High temp hose arrived with different fittings to advertised, so went thru the dance with the supplier and they are coming to the party to supply the adapters to meet the advertised config - never seems to end.

[PeeBee]

OK, getting closer. The clock now powered up again, simple connection issue at the fuse box, resolved one of the temp gauge issues as well, same problem it seems, installed the Celfi Mobile Phone amplifier system, 6dbi antenna on bulbar, 3dbi spare on the roofrack, amplifier inside the car with the internal antenna in the cargo barrier, amplified signal is 9/10 strength compared with base strength of 2/10 strength.

New air receiver arrived, fitting tomorrow if air fittings turn up, New sat phone spare cable arrived today so configuring a spare antenna as well over the next number of days. Might get to the chassis stiffeners, but most likely over the weekend or early next week. Just seem to be finding the odd tangent to chase down80920809218092280923

Found the new air compressor fan shroud is rubbing on the seat frame, vibration noisy as hell, so a bit of rejigging required in the detail. Ran the power for the compressor off the rear battery bank, using a large Anderson plug with handle as the on/off switch - sure it will work fine, tank has a 200psi vent valve fitted, not that the compressor can pump that high anyway.

[PeeBee]

Mounted a couple of strip lead lights - one under the bonnet mounted on the inside of the bonnet scoop to illuminate the engine bay and a second one on the underside of the winch bar top rail to illuminate the winch rope if required. Tidied up some more wiring, must have gone thru a zillion cable ties already.

[PeeBee]

OK, another successful day, welded in the PSR front spring tower braces - more or less a band across the front and around the outside of the spring tower. I also have internal braces to fit when I get around to it. 80929Fitted the pass side rear chassis brace plates, simply ran out of time for the drivers side - tomorrow will do. These plates are on the outside of the chassis rail. I also have the front internal braces to do tomorrow with luck. They are on the inside of the chassis rail - everything fitted beautifully.8093080931. Sorted out the heater gap as well, used some double sided foam with adhesive, worked well, should get another 20 years out of it I reckon.

[PeeBee]

1) Finished off the remaining chassis stiffener plates on the outside, now onto the front ones that are on the inside. 2) Reworked the air compressor mount bracket to incorporate the air receiver, waiting on the final fittings and the ARB air line kit to arrive. 3) Did the research on the electronic corrosion systems avail and the one that stood out was the Couplertec, so purchased a 6 pad commercial unit, made for 8T trucks, and has a bigger power rating than the domestic/4wd system sold. Mounted the pads today and the control head, just need to run the cables next (Photos of the damage to Rossco and the fella in NZ scare the hell ourt of me to be honest, so I will give this a go and see what happens - if anything. 4) Also finally sorted out a device to work like a throttle cable for cold start/fast idle stuff like running the coffee machine or the winches, am chopping down a GQ choke cable assy - should be hours of fun getting that right!

[PeeBee]

Sortd out the fast idle mechanism, used the 'blind bally string' and an indent set-up on a mount bracket. Each ball position equates to an increase in idle speed by 400rpm. simple, works well, but have a sore head trying to get it sorted out.

Also installed the Couplertec system today. not difficult, will see how it performs.

Took the beast out for a drive to visit the Xmas Hill bandits MB and @AB, and the vehicle runs like a swiss watch, and so much grunt and response, its great fun to drive, really happy where this has landed. Just waiting on the new pump and the picture should be complete.80959

[PeeBee]

OK, tacked the inner 3 out of 4 plates into position today. Brunswick have caught me out again as they run the exhaust so tight against the pass side chassis rail the plate wont fit. Wife is at a course tomorrow so will have a look at it. Will look at welding them out tomorrow.8096980970

Couple of shots of the led light bar mounted under the bonnet, throws a heap of light, certainly enough for under bonnet initial inspections. First shot is with the light OFF

[Winnie]

Phil you have really done a great job cleaning up the engine bay.
Looks much better now than this pic I sneaked in a little while ago.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/05/6.jpg

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

[MudRunnerTD]

Phil you have really done a great job cleaning up the engine bay.
Looks much better now than this pic I sneaked in a little while ago.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/05/6.jpg

Sent from my SM-G960F using TapatalkHahahaha. Bastard. You stole.my glory!!!!

This is the Old Phillstar. New Phillstar has got it sorted

Sent from my SM-G977B using Tapatalk

[PeeBee]

You guys are both cheeky bugger monkeys - absolutely no slack with you guys. Have to admit though it is still quite full. but a bit more orderly. reckon there is $400 of corrugated cable sheathing thru the car now.

[Sprock]

Hahahahaha that wiring pic as funny as 🤣

[PeeBee]

Hahahahaha that wiring pic as funny as 🤣

Hey Sprocky Doodle, how are you getting on? I hope work has picked up or are you slammed up in quarantine like the rest of us?

[PeeBee]

Wasn't happy with the bend radius of the W2A hoses so installed 10 off these on the critical bends to keep the bore circular and reduce pressure drop/maintain highest flow rate possible. Install this temp gauge setup on the gearbox and transfer case, selected a bolt that was about half way up the bolt pattern and out of harms way. I have further insulated over the top of each sensor to take away any heat loss caused from wind effect. Finished off the fog lights and after 30 mins of jinking around with nader happening, found it was a faulty Narva Isolation switch - now you don't see that too often, anyway, substitute switch found but need a small plastic switch tab in the dash - off to PAP for that.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/UNICOIL-3-4-STAINLESS-STEEL-HOSE-COIL-SUITS-HOSE-INSIDE-DIAMETRE-3-4-19mm/162058013738?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EG01-2-TWIN-SENSOR-Engine-Trans-Temperature-Alarm-suits-COASTER-bus-coach-etc/163586654909?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

[Sprock]

Nah Philbus we’ve been full on - we’re deemed an ‘essential service’ so kept working - after the last 6mths I ain’t complaining . Our biggest threat is the greenies stopping us . Anyway as for this ‘self isolation’ - I’ve been doing that for nearly 25 yrs so I’m all over it haha

[PeeBee]

Hoses and fittings arrived for the air compressor installation under the middle row seats, so finished that off, happy with the result Installed so rubber stone guards around some cables under the front wheel arch. Have a squeaking sound coming from somewhere around the powersteering pump, found it has running a lowish fluid level, topped it up but made no difference. Sound goes away after say 5 minutes of idle, looking but cannot identify the source.

Now just waiting for the w2a big pump - its arrived in NSW, so with luck will have it early next week. Then the tank can be made and fitted up.

[MudRunnerTD]

Give it a crack!!!

#nekminit #justsendit

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/05/95.jpg

Sent from my SM-G977B using Tapatalk

[PeeBee]

Speechless! Wonder what the rest of the motor looks like, and guessing a little bit more boost than I am running!!!

[PeeBee]

New EMP WP32 pump arrived today, finally at 5pm, so that's a win for tomorrow. The 10L tank is fabricated and I just need to cut and weld the inlet and outlets into it. I think by the time I make the pump mount bracket and mount that off the tank, run the cables to relay and isolator etc, 2 days will be done and dusted.

Added a touch sensitive light to the rear cargo barrier timber board so interior is well lit up. Still have that damn ticking sound on start up - cant find the source, will drive me spare until I know what it is and fix it though! Will post photos later tonight.8103481035

[PeeBee]

Another good day in the garage. Finished off the tank, mounted the pump and painted the tank ready for a coat of epoxy bitumen then thermal insulation. Ordered some custom a/c fittings as the clearance off the firewall is very tight. With luck will have them by Monday. Replacement Couplertec unit arrived and fitted that up also.
8104881049

[PeeBee]

Bit of stuffing around, waiting on the custom a/c fittings.810548105581056

Triple insulated the pump and motor assy, trying to get the tank to dry in Melb's 13 degC day is a challenge

[MudRunnerTD]

You missed your calling Phil! you have a Knack for Painting for sure mate!!

[PeeBee]

You missed your calling Phil! you have a Knack for Painting for sure mate!!

Darren, we are all good at some stuff and not so good at others!!! House painting is fine, handling this 2 pack bitumen paint is another thing all together. Its too cold to be applying it to be honest, plus, normal heat activation to accelerate the hardener does not work - it makes the mix more plastic, so I ended up setting up the fan with coldish air all day - and it still looks like crap,. Anyway, tomorrow I do the plumbers thing and cover it under a couple of layers of insulation, so the scar will be hidden - but thanks for highlighting my failings!- mate.

[PeeBee]

Here you go Darren, all hidden and looking beautifoooool81059810608106181062

[PeeBee]

Filled the reservoir and test ran the pump on a closed loop back into the tank, bit of grunt there, soft starter as well. shot a 3/4" stream 8m onto the roadway, but of course not a real world test but impressive.

[mudski]

I think we need to run bets at $10 each to guess the weight of this beast when it’s done. The closest to the mark gets the kitty.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[PeeBee]

OK, I don't exactly know how much it weighs, but its been over the scales at 3320 and 3940kg. The 3320kg was for the engineering brake test/GVM upgrade and the 3940 was in semi battle ready config. Fuel tanks would have been full, water tank full, fridge full of grog in order to get actual front and rear axle loads for the spring selection, and 1 was not in the vehicle at time of weighing. Vehicle did not have the s/c or interchiller assy either. The vehicle would not have had the camping gear or full recovery gear or travel tools I carry.

I would expect a starting weight around 4150kg without me in it, loaded for a weekend away - that's my opening bid - No Driver, but loaded for a weekend trip up the Vic High Country. mudski, maybe set this up as a new page?

[mudski]

Just thinking about this, this morning Phil and I probably couldn't could create a betting thread, for legality reasons...

[mudnut]

Just thinking about this, this morning Phil and I probably couldn't could create a betting thread, for legality reasons...

Live dangerously. 4151kg :)

[mudski]

Live dangerously. 4151kg :)

You sure? He's probably remove 100kg in wiring. :wink:

[mudnut]

You sure? He's probably remove 100kg in wiring. :wink:

Mark, Phil has done so much work on it, I bet he's fitted a Brock polariser voodoo unit and an anti gravity device he's already forgotten about. :)

[MudRunnerTD]

I reckon we call it the Tardis!!


81073

[MudRunnerTD]

Its a GQ on the Outside......

81074

[PeeBee]

Thank You Men for your kind thoughts. Tardis not avail for number plate, just checked

[MudRunnerTD]

Thank You Men for your kind thoughts. Tardis not avail for number plate, just checked

Bhahahaha love it.

TRDISS
TARDES
TRDIS
TAADIS

[PeeBee]

Yeah, well $495 for a pair of plates that will see the light of day 6 times a year is a bit 'off the menu' right now. I think the TAADIS is the winner though.

[PeeBee]

OK, almost there, just have to put a/c refrigerant into it and its done. Hooked up the tank, pump and power, hoses double insulated, pump flows at 41LPM, draws 19.8amps and pressure in system somewhere around 18 -20psi - unsure as the needle wrapped around on a 15psi gauge - seem to be making a habit of this! Onto ebay to get a 30psi gauge now. So will book it in this week and let you know the results. Unfortunately the temp gauges to match the probes for before and after the intercooler -water temps -have not arrived, however do have sensors in the inlet airstream to the s/c and in the manifold post the w2A unit pre the engine , so that will give the best indication I think of effect.

[PeeBee]

OK, the results are in, but not completely accurate.

The system was gassed up today and took the vehicle for a 100klm spin down the freeway and back home. Ambient temps were cool - 13 degC.

Pre interchiller installation cruising EGT at 100kmhr in 5th were 300 degC on the knocker. They are now 200degC even on both exhaust headers.
Pre interchiller installation, 'stick the boot in in 5th accelerating to well above the speed limit', circa 500degC, post temps no higher than 320degC

I have an issue with the inlet and post s/c/intercooler air temp readings as they are both reading around 60 degC higher than where they should be - inlet air reading 72degc on a 13 deg day for example - spoke with the supplier just now and he is baffled. The 4 sensor units I have are unfortunately 3 old series and 1 later, so set up is different. I will do some swapping around to check the probe accuracy then go from there - just a bit more effort! Initially he thought this probe may have been set in degF, but its not as all devices measure the same resting temp after a night in the garage.

Boost at 100kmhr is 14psi - holds flat, wont go over that, happy with the response and performance, so another win.

Cabin a/c remains icy cold with the normal running mode, and with it in the stage 2/race track mode, with no cooling to the cabin, ie all cooling going to the engine w2a unit, could not detect any cooling performance increase, however I think the sensors are incorrectly calibrated - will be chasing that down next week with some industrial instrumentation guys I know.

Was running the cabin with the heater on as well, however this is a no no according to FI Interchiller, so will redo the runs without the heater on and see what result I get. The a/c can cycle on and off due to the heat sensor in the cabin - my error, but wasn't aware of this.

Anyway, truck runs really well, and having the grunt at 100kmhr is great, sort of like you are driving on the cusp of a power bank to some degree. Happy days, remains a work in progress - intrigue.

[PeeBee]

OK, been thinking about this issue of the air temp readings and doing some research. I believe the probe used in the airstream is incorrectly configured for air, its a probe configured for liquid - very different type of measurement head and technology required. I am going to swap out the air sensors into the water sensor pick-up points as still waiting for the gauges to arrive - I am sure this will give me the right temperature readings. I have ordered two HVAC style temperature probes and a matched digital display from the UK that is configured specifically for air. I also will move the incoming air probe position closer towards the air filter box. It is currently 250mm away from the inlet to the s/c. Reading the guff from Kenne Bell in the US, the IAT should be measured close to the air filter for the most accurate comparison.

Picked up some further info tonight that I have been chasing without luck previously. The temp rise across a twin screw blower is approx. 10 degF per PSI boost. The terminal temperature of the air leaving the blower is further boosted by the ambient temp (plus any heat soak effect from under bonnet temps), so if I convert to DegC, at 14psi boost, today, I would have had an ambient temp of 12degC plus a 60DegC temp rise thru the blower, hence the air temp leaving the blower would have been circa 72DegC. This temp hits the w2a intercooler core. The info I am missing is the actual chilled water temp, pre and aft the w2a unit, which I will get by swapping out the probes as mentioned tomorrow. From there I should be able to calculate the expected temp drop across the coil, however the new UK temp probes will be the final determinant as they are calibrated and guaranteed accurate within 0.5degC.

The journey continues. All good stuff I reckon. I think it is time to crank the water injection system up as well and see what the total cooling effect is - not going the full water/methanol route at this time, just water.

Here is the link to the dual probes and gauge

https://www.mainline-sensors.co.uk/collections/gauges/products/dual-intercooler-supercharger-digital-temperature-gauge-sensor-1-8-npt

[PeeBee]

OK, bit of an update and pics. I swapped out the temp probes and basically as advised earlier, they were way off. I used a calibrated instrument this time and the numbers are closer to where they should be. In broad term, with the interchiller doing the cooling , my inlet air temps are approx. 40 deg less than if I was not running it, ie if no intercooler was in play at all. The unknown value is what tangible benefit does the interchiller have on lowering the inlet air temp beyond what a w2a unit would achieve, and what effect does this have on EGT's. Todays results as follows.

Ambient temp was 18 degC. Coolant temp was around 9 - 10 degC. Inlet air temp into the engine post the s/c was 30deg C at 10psi boost. Without the w2a/Interchiller in play, in theory the inlet temp to the engine would have been around 71DegC, according to the literature I have read. From here I will be installing better devices and monitoring what is happening. I have already gained a 100degC drop in EGT's at 100klm/hr so its looking good.
81151811528115381154

I still have a coolant leak, so this is going to bug me until fixed, and its buried somewhere down low and hidden it seems. I also may have a supercharger to manifold leak as there is a little bit of wind coming out between/around one of the inlet legs - bugger.

[PeeBee]

poindexter, if you are looking to upgrade the 'duty rating' of the 6 rib belt, have a look at the fleetguard belts. They are a lot stiffer, but do make a bit of noise for the first 5 minutes or so until they warm up - sort of like the old cross ply tyres and flat spots over night. I found these, even on the 8 ribs, don't stretch like the standard duty Gates belts.

[MudRunnerTD]

81154



Holy Mother of God!!!!

[MudRunnerTD]

81157

Love your work Phil.... That is Epic mate.. Can Not Wait to see this thing in the flesh mate.

[PeeBee]

Thanks Darren, down to the last three bee stings I reckon, W2A water leak, what I think might be a manifold leak between the s/c and inlet manifold and the cruise control. Its still got a pile of 'noises' I need to get used to, then after understanding how to drive it, pay less attention to the instrumentation and just enjoy it.

[PeeBee]

Bit of a crap day today. I bought an inspection camera to see if I could find that coolant leak but no luck so far. I then decided to re-torque the inlet manifold to the block as the 'wind' was getting loader plus I was losing boost - hit 10psi then starts to drop and there is a god almighty whistle going on. So retorqued the bolts, started it up and the breeze is still there, plus a horrendous squeal from the front of the engine and the 8V belt was starting to track off the idler. I looked at the assy and 'nothing had changed', so when I took the load off the belt to flick it back across, I noticed the idle pulley flexing by about 2-3 degrees from the belt tension. I have been running the green fleetguard belt, so thought I would first swap out the auto tensioner as maybe it had failed and was over tensioning the belt. Swapped it over for a spare I bought from brunswick diesel, and of course it has not ben internally modified to give a great throw,. so that had to be swapped back to the original. Then I thought I would swap out the belt for a new standard duty belt which has a bit more give - this turned into a saga as night was upon me and my patience was ebbing. Anyway, got the belt on, just, but the sub assy is still flexing.

From here I will have a look if anything has actually come loose on the brackets, but right now the belt tension appears through the roof, and have not driven it to ascertain what the falling/limited boost issue is.

[poindexter]

Something has happened to change the tension, you need to find that out first.
I used to design FEADs for a living when I worked for GMPowertrain, and it is not normal for the tension to go up, if anything it should have gone down, Has the internal spring been over tensioned for any reason, maybe check that it is sitting in the right location.
There is a torque measurement to check on the tensioner to see if it is within spec.

[PeeBee]

Something has happened to change the tension, you need to find that out first.
I used to design FEADs for a living when I worked for GMPowertrain, and it is not normal for the tension to go up, if anything it should have gone down, Has the internal spring been over tensioned for any reason, maybe check that it is sitting in the right location.
There is a torque measurement to check on the tensioner to see if it is within spec.

Thanks Ralph, yes, what has changed, precisely. There are two drilled holes for clocking the tensioner into position, and I was not aware/didn't have my glasses on - whatever, and put the tensioner into the wrong hole. This increased the belt tension, however it took a while for the actual belt to stretch and then work its way off the idler to some degree. I installed a different belt and it was a difficult job to install it. Anyway, I spoke with BD today and was made aware of the second hole, so undid the tensioner and dropped it into the correct position. The issue now however is the tension is too low to drive the vacuum pump! The pump only has about 45deg of contact. So, BD are making up a larger diameter idler to bring the tensioner up in force - with luck that will work without changing belt sizes.

The static idler under the s/c snout is still too weak from my perspective for longevity. I have asked BD to increase the size of the bearing and the support stub axle - it appears the one fitted has too small a footprint on the mount plate, plus the mount plate has a design weakness that is difficult to overcome, made by Bullet. This slippage I believe also corresponds with the drop in boost pressure, however still have this bit of airflow coming out dead and centre from the valley area - its ambient temperature - maybe its some sort of random airflow from the radiatior fan flow?

In summation, looks like operator error to some degree, which I can accept as long as there is a reason and not stupidity. Once this is resolved, I am basically done. I have the truck booked into performance exhaust to get the diesel particulate canister installed between flanges, and final weld out of the chassis stiffener overhead welds. I will also get them to comment on an exhaust dia upgrade to 4" mandrel and see what they can do with the exhaust manifold re headers, then will start looking around to see who I am going to approach for final engineering on the s/c installation - have you selected a VASS engineer to work with? the guy in hallam has disappeared completely it seems.

[poindexter]

OK, sounds like you may be onto the issue.
The tension is too low to drive the vac pump? really? doesn't sound right to me, check that the belt length is correct. What nominal length are you using?
I wish you luck getting a 4" exhaust through, is performance exhaust the mob in Lilydale?
Spoken to Enkelman & associates, and they are ok with the conversion. Front axle weight will be the main issue according to them. Present the truck with no or minimal accessories mounted to the front they advise.
I will be using them for my project.

[PeeBee]

OK, sounds like you may be onto the issue.
The tension is too low to drive the vac pump? really? doesn't sound right to me, check that the belt length is correct. What nominal length are you using?
I wish you luck getting a 4" exhaust through, is performance exhaust the mob in Lilydale?
Spoken to Enkelman & associates, and they are ok with the conversion. Front axle weight will be the main issue according to them. Present the truck with no or minimal accessories mounted to the front they advise.
I will be using them for my project.

The belt length has not changed, its 8pk3020. The tension is related to the belt path/length for sure. Its marginal from a length perspective. ie tension and marginal from an angle of wrap perspective, remembering the drive is on the back surface of the belt and its a shiny steel pulley and minimal contact. I sourced the next size down belt from Gates, however it was too short - however may fit now with the tensioner being in the correct position.
I don't intend going through engineering with the 4" exhaust. Performance exhaust are in Scoresby/Rowville. Good luck with those guys, they backflipped twice on me, wasted a LOT of time with them, won't go back to them. I think the BD legacy was a lot to do with it to be honest.
What are your front and rear axle limits? I put mine over a weighbridge in Hallam to get them. The GQ is 1500 for the front and 1800 for the rear. I didn't exceed these numbers even with both winches/bulbar/batteries, however the guts of the vehicle was largely stripped out and empty fuel tanks etc.

[poindexter]

Seems that the belt length might be a problem as I'm assuming the standard size increments might not work in our favor. Either too long or too short.
I'm not running a vac pump, and intend to run a shorter belt, however if unsuitable, might have a dummy pulley there.
Regarding Enkelman, was recommended to me by the mechanic, and seems ok over the phone, buy then so does Archie.
All this FEAD talk is making me nervous about the S/C, but you are the pioneer and hopefully sort out the issues smartly.

[PeeBee]

I have bought a 12V vac pump also, and if I cant get this sorted promptly, I will be going down a similar route to you. The pump for me was a back-up device as the truck is a TOTAL pig to stop without the vac assist, plus the clutch is vac assisted also and it becomes a doughy feel and changing gears feels 'on the edge of gear crunch at times'. The stuff that I am wading through simply should not be happening. All this is supposed to be from 'mature kits' but seems there is always a variable. Anyway, next hurdle is to resolve the idler mount plate rigidity and then the alignment and belt tension issues. Keep you posted.

[poindexter]

I'm running a hydroboost for the brakes which is why I don't need vac.
My moment of truth will come with the 6L90, which was never fitted behind the 6.5.
It beat Marks 4WD as they couldn't get the torque convertor to play nice, and has since dropped their conversion for 79 series.
However, when I talked to Marks, they were such pricks about divulging info about the conversion, I withheld what I knew from GM Powertrain.
Mind you Quadstar in the USA were no better, so a big FY to them all if I get this to work.

[PeeBee]

I'm running a hydroboost for the brakes which is why I don't need vac.
My moment of truth will come with the 6L90, which was never fitted behind the 6.5.
It beat Marks 4WD as they couldn't get the torque convertor to play nice, and has since dropped their conversion for 79 series.
However, when I talked to Marks, they were such pricks about divulging info about the conversion, I withheld what I knew from GM Powertrain.
Mind you Quadstar in the USA were no better, so a big FY to them all if I get this to work.

Luv it Ralph, keep pushing where you have the belief.

[PeeBee]

OK, looks like I have found the issue at the root of my belt alignment hassles. There is a mount plate supplied with the kit and this has 4 bolts anchoring the static idler to the block. One of the bolt has snapped under tension81173 - so the plate assy can move up and down, putting uneven load onto the belt and pushing it out of alignment. What a piss off as i now have to disassemble a few parts and drill out the broken bolt. I will be replacing these soft as cheese cake crap screws with unbrakos for sure. Looks like the actual mount plate is bent as well due to the load, so thats another part to buy. Anyway, tomorrow is the drill out day and using my new right angle drill and set of screw extractors, I trust it will get done. Wish it was as easy to find as the image shows - its actually buried/shadowed under another plate, so everything needs to come off to get to it.

[poindexter]

Can you show the correct tensioner position?

[PeeBee]

Can you show the correct tensioner position?

Ralph, did you get any documentation from Bullet when you purchased your kit from them? There is a note in the 9 page installation doc - point 15, see attached. If you want the entire document PM me an email address and i will scan it for you and send. When the location peg is aligned with the new hole, 20mm ACW from existing, the tensioner pulley81181 will sit at the 4 o'clock position when the belt is installed. Mine is sitting there now. smack on 4 o'clock. There were two M8 bolts snapped, both on the passenger side and logically they were the lowest and next lowest bolts in the group of 4. I replaced all 4 mount bolts - they are a plated cap screw 12.9 grade, plus also upgraded the static bearing bolt, M10 x 60mm from 8.8 to 12.9 also. All back together and belt running dead centre of the pulleys, took it for a spin and all good. Has taken a bit of rattle noise away as well, boost back up at 13 -14psi 8118281183

[PeeBee]

So, 4 hrs to get 2 M8 bolts out, grade 12.9, cap screws, could not drill them, no room to even centre pop a start for the drill bit. Ended up stuffing around with the dremel and cut a slot across the shaft and then screw driver to undo them - bloody mission, but all back together now, belt sitting where it should and holding dead centre, replaced the m8 mount bolts and the m10 static roller bolt just to be sure, plate was not bent. Boost back up at 14psi and motor sounds strong and less rattles, no doubt the plate had a lot to do with it. New belt as well.

[poindexter]

I'll check to see whether that was done on my engine, when the guys assembled it.

[PeeBee]

I'll check to see whether that was done on my engine, when the guys assembled it.

Simple check, undo the centre mount bolt on tensioner, takes 3 mins I reckon.

[mudski]

81182
Looks like a Gates Fleetrunner belt your running there Phil. They are super strong those belts. I'll be putting those on my Patrol when its due for a new set of belts.

[PeeBee]

Yes, they are miles stronger than the standard 'HD range'. And to be honest not a lot more cost than the standard Gates from what I can tell. I have unfortunately collected a number of this size belt along the journey to get the belt alignment sorted, and munched a few as well.

[mudski]

Yes, they are miles stronger than the standard 'HD range'. And to be honest not a lot more cost than the standard Gates from what I can tell. I have unfortunately collected a number of this size belt along the journey to get the belt alignment sorted, and munched a few as well.

Yep, sell heaps of them, a lot to Harrop too. ;)

[PeeBee]

Yep, sell heaps of them, a lot to Harrop too. ;)

Can you PM me a price for two off 8PK 3020 belts pls?

[mudski]

Can you PM me a price for two off 8PK 3020 belts pls?

pm'ed.......

[PeeBee]

Diesel Particulate Filter installed, chassis plates overhead welds done, front spring tower vertical welds don, New ARB Intensity lightbar installed, 'might' have found the the coolant leak - 'could' be the small breather hole on the tank i am currently using for the temp monitoring - have plumbed it using an air fitting to ground so I should be able to rule out any hoses or fittings. Drove the beast around all day and no issues, looking promising at this point. If I ignore the cruise control, I am done and dusted apart from the outstanding instruments still in transit, so HOOOOORRRAAAAY!!!!

[mudski]

Diesel Particulate Filter installed

Eh? Im think as in a DPF, for exhaust.?? Surely not.

[PeeBee]

Eh? Im think as in a DPF, for exhaust.?? Surely not.

Whatever it is called, its in the exhaust pipe, as close to the engine as possible, has to be at least a 100 cell/inch 2 unit, the VASS engineer made me go to 200 as the law will be 200 within 12 months, so may as well be ready for it. Its a Catalytic converter, but for diesel. This is what is installed.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-INCH-200-CELL-CAT-CONVERTER-HIGH-FLOW-PETROL-DIESEL-STAINLESS-STEEL/172242860899?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

[mudski]

Whatever it is called, its in the exhaust pipe, as close to the engine as possible, has to be at least a 100 cell/inch 2 unit, the VASS engineer made me go to 200 as the law will be 200 within 12 months, so may as well be ready for it. Its a Catalytic converter, but for diesel. This is what is installed.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-INCH-200-CELL-CAT-CONVERTER-HIGH-FLOW-PETROL-DIESEL-STAINLESS-STEEL/172242860899?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Why would you even require a DPF, or even a Cat on your vehicle? Its not even required on mine and its a 2001 GU?

[PeeBee]

Why would you even require a DPF, or even a Cat on your vehicle? Its not even required on mine and its a 2001 GU?

Its not my call, its the VASS engineer and the regulations. When I did the original engine conversion from 2.8TD to 6.5 N/A, the vehicle age at 1997 manufacture was before the old threshold of 2003? and so there were no emission requirements. the rules have now changed and any engine conversion must now be fitted with a 100cell particulate filter. This is going to be further tightened next year to 200 cell units, so whatever they want they can have. I am putting the vehicle back thru engineering to get the s/c added to the paperwork, and then registration papers and insurance.

[mudski]

Ahh makes sense now. Thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[PeeBee]

Calibrated air and water temp sensors and gauges arrived yesterday. Fitted the water units today, what a difference compared to the junk off ebay. Supply water temp is 1 deg at idle on the supply water and 2deg on the discharge line of the w2a heat exchanger at idle. Granted its a cool day and the water is yet to get any heat load from driving, but a fair way off the 25 degc indicated with a generic sensor. Waiting for an adapter fitting to go down from 3/8NPT to 1/4NPT and also have ordered a 3/8npt tap in case the probe length does not sit where it needs to with the air sensors. Doing a quick crunch of the numbers I am shedding 33degC across the w2a at idle. If i can maintain something like this across the rev range i will be happy - will see.

Also mounted the CelFi unit in a waterproof box so a bit more comfortable with that set-up. mounted the oil cooler guard, manufactured from SS perf sheet with 10mm holes to provide a bit of protection from hands getting in contact with the hot tubes.

[PeeBee]

Mounted the display, wired the two air temp probes for the s/c supply air temp and then air temp into the engine, just waiting for the adapters to arrive, hope tomorrow. have repurposed the original twin head sensor unit for use as under bonnet temp checks - want to move them around over time to see if I can detect any dead pockets of hot air that need moving. I have a couple of bilge pump fans that can be made to start swirling the air around a bit if needed.

[PeeBee]

Ordered 3/8NPT tap, got supplied 1/8NPT tap - bugger me. Anyway, simple mistake, but a further delay to sign this project off. So close now.

[PeeBee]

All done, probes mounted, and connected up, so fun time and data collection can commence. What a mission this ended up being. Anyone thinking of doing the same journey, have a lobotomy first, then go back the next week and get the rest of your brain excised as it will be turned to mush by the time you are finished.

[PeeBee]

OK, headed off on the maiden s/c run for 3 days up the high country. Good news all round, no smoke testing or flames anywhere, nothing failed apart from a temp gauge/sender playing funny buggers. Interchiller system worked well, in all honestly not as spectacular as some of the vid's on youtube, but the results are pleasing. Put 700klm on it as a starter, so decent first run. The prize is lower egt's, so i guess i have succedded but time will tell if the outlay and difficulty has been worth it - unsure just at this moment.

I am knocking about 60degC out of the inlet air temp to the engine (post s/c at 14psi) as a minimum, at times close to 80degC. EGT's are sitting around 200 Deg C most or the time(even on both banks/probes), have to push really crazy to get 400degC. Boost is running at 14psi with peaks to 17psi when i stomp it. Rad temps are running around the 84degC- 90Deg C and 17Deg c drop across the coil, so that vindicates the bloody expensive ally radiator and high volume water pump. The aux 2200cfm 12V fan works well and drops temps down when crawling along by around 5 degC. Gearbox and transfer case running at 60 degC in all conditions, cruising or in the bush. Cabin a/c temps frosty cold and when I run the bypass a/c circuit to direct 100% cooling to the engine the water temps and inlet air temps fall by about 7 deg, and i can still run the heater in the cabin I found without detriment despite Fi Interchiller claiming otherwise.

Fuel consumption at 100klm/hr is 22l/hr, (22l/100kilometer). At 110km/hr it pushes up to 28, at 120 up to 35! The 2.8TD engine used to deliver 30L/100klm. so I am still in front and heaps more enjoyment to drive. In the bush its averaging around 10 - 11 based on the numbers i was observing. Super responsive, like driving a petrol V8 auto when cruising, just touch the accel pedal and it takes off, on the flat or uphill, downshifting not required - big improvement on the n/a version.

[mudnut]

The 2.8TD engine used to deliver 30L/100klm.

Bloody hell! The worst the RB ever got was 16-17 l/ 100ks, and that was towing a small camper around Mt Cole.

I am happy for you, Phil, to see that all your work is paying off!

[4x4sk1n]

I love the s/c torque much smoother than a turbo. Do you get a nice whine out of it?

[PeeBee]

I love the s/c torque much smoother than a turbo. Do you get a nice whine out of it?

Yes the whine and the burble of the exhaust are delicious. The torque, smooth - instant yes, savage yes, smooth not a word I would have chosen, but it is 'there' instantly, but in reality its maybe a second or so in front of a turbo, so not that much difference i reckon. For that second of lead, its a lot more pain and expense, but i love it anyway.

[PeeBee]

Bought a 12v power steering pump assy with reservoir today. Going to mount it in front pass side - somehow. reason being, after the first ps failure the vehicle is damn near undrivable without the hyd booster, so if it were to crap out up the high country it would be a very dicey trip to get it out. i also have a Proflow vac pump i bought and need to mount that up as well. Young Dan's lockdown will help me again!
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HOLDEN-TS-ASTRA-ELECTRIC-POWER-STEERING-PUMP-TRW-BRAND-3-Wire-For-Conversions/114224137778?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Also been looking at the wiring under the dash and will do some more adjustments and swap out the fuse blocks to the LED indicating fuse blocks for easier identification of a blown circuit. Currently have a number of circuits 'doubled up' on the same fuse, which is not good practice, but time and money can resolve this.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12-Way-Blade-Fuse-Auto-Block-Box-Holder-Indicator-12V-ATC-ATO-Circuit-Car-Boat/312854258070?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

[PeeBee]

Decided to go to the next level with the under dash wiring and dedicate one circuit per fuse - yes I know, thats the way it should be but wasn't, so bought 4 of the 12 slot fuse blocks with LED blown fuse indication, and mount them on a 4mm alum plate. Stripped out the cables and have started to bundle them , more by length than anything and grouping, pos?neg - deep cycle battery supply, and pos/neg ignition supply, then length will determine which block they end up on. All cables are n umbered so I know where they belong to. With luck will get back into this tomorrow.8144381444

[mudski]

Bloody hell mate. I seriously wish you all the best.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[PeeBee]

Thanks, the clarity I had yesterday with this has evaporated today with the back and shoulder pain of twisting under the dash for 7 hrs yesterday - cant motivate myself back under there for another full today just yet! Anyway, the first step cut was done to tidy things up and get back on the road. This next step is to basically resolve the mess and provide easier identification of a failed circuit. Since its now just refinements and i am still not working, time is free to do stuff like this as long as wifey baby remains distracted with her stuff!

[poindexter]

OK, headed off on the maiden s/c run for 3 days up the high country. Good news all round, no smoke testing or flames anywhere, nothing failed apart from a temp gauge/sender playing funny buggers. Interchiller system worked well, in all honestly not as spectacular as some of the vid's on youtube, but the results are pleasing. Put 700klm on it as a starter, so decent first run. The prize is lower egt's, so i guess i have succedded but time will tell if the outlay and difficulty has been worth it - unsure just at this moment.

I am knocking about 60degC out of the inlet air temp to the engine (post s/c at 14psi) as a minimum, at times close to 80degC. EGT's are sitting around 200 Deg C most or the time(even on both banks/probes), have to push really crazy to get 400degC. Boost is running at 14psi with peaks to 17psi when i stomp it. Rad temps are running around the 84degC- 90Deg C and 17Deg c drop across the coil, so that vindicates the bloody expensive ally radiator and high volume water pump. The aux 2200cfm 12V fan works well and drops temps down when crawling along by around 5 degC. Gearbox and transfer case running at 60 degC in all conditions, cruising or in the bush. Cabin a/c temps frosty cold and when I run the bypass a/c circuit to direct 100% cooling to the engine the water temps and inlet air temps fall by about 7 deg, and i can still run the heater in the cabin I found without detriment despite Fi Interchiller claiming otherwise.

Fuel consumption at 100klm/hr is 22l/hr, (22l/100kilometer). At 110km/hr it pushes up to 28, at 120 up to 35! The 2.8TD engine used to deliver 30L/100klm. so I am still in front and heaps more enjoyment to drive. In the bush its averaging around 10 - 11 based on the numbers i was observing. Super responsive, like driving a petrol V8 auto when cruising, just touch the accel pedal and it takes off, on the flat or uphill, downshifting not required - big improvement on the n/a version.

Interesting consumption figures,
What were the engine revs at those speeds?
If I recall, you are running the 3.9 diffs right?

[PeeBee]

Not entirely sure as was sort of sucking in a lot of info at the one time. I think at 100kph I am doing around the 1900-1950rpm, 110kph sits around 2000 - 2050maybe, not sure on 120kph. When i am next out I will take some better numbers. These are probably worst case in some regards as the sample time is so short. Also, I have a large frontal area with the roofrack that does not help. Yes 33's and 3,9 with man box.

[PeeBee]

Time consuming day today. Managed to get the 4 fuse blocks mounted in the vehicle and run the pos/neg cables for the deep cycle side of things. Tomorrow is the ign source cables - this is going to be a struggle as there are more cables and I think quite a few will require extending. Also have 3 cables that I somehow didn't label and one joined with a crimp connection came apart and I can't locate the other end - always happens. 7 hrs is about the limit for me screwed up like a wet towel, so will see how it lands tomorrow, but it looks a hell of a lot better.

[PeeBee]

Rewire complete - 3 wires to chase down but they should show up pretty easily when something doesn't work. Only issue was the actual fit of the blade fuses, couple were out of alignment and took a bit of joggling to fit the fuse. They were cheap in all honesty, however could not find a Blue Seas quality fuse block with 12 slots81489 with the LEDs. Still pretty busy though.

[mudnut]

What a champion That is one can of worms dealt with.

[poindexter]

Not entirely sure as was sort of sucking in a lot of info at the one time. I think at 100kph I am doing around the 1900-1950rpm, 110kph sits around 2000 - 2050maybe, not sure on 120kph. When i am next out I will take some better numbers. These are probably worst case in some regards as the sample time is so short. Also, I have a large frontal area with the roofrack that does not help. Yes 33's and 3,9 with man box.

I looked at my spreadsheet and with those tires and diff ratio, you should be doing 97km/h at 2000rpm, 120 reads 2500rpm.
would be interested if the spreadsheet is accurate.

[PeeBee]

Thanks ralph, I will take a closer look next time. My speedo is out as the conversion was done with 32" tyres, and by the GPS 1 am 5klm/hr out. I am a bit doubtful about the speed as the rolling dia is a bit pressure dependent anyway.

[PeeBee]

What a champion That is one can of worms dealt with.

Yep, it was a dogs breakfast for sure, now a bit more organised and one circuit per fuse.

[PeeBee]

Went chasing the home for the 3 extra wires, started by seeing what wasn't working - bugger me there are 5 things not working and 3 wires - just as well we are in lockdown or this would be a real drag

[MudRunnerTD]

Rewire complete - 3 wires to chase down but they should show up pretty easily when something doesn't work. Only issue was the actual fit of the blade fuses, couple were out of alignment and took a bit of joggling to fit the fuse. They were cheap in all honesty, however could not find a Blue Seas quality fuse block with 12 slots81489 with the LEDs. Still pretty busy though.

Just.....Bloody Hell mate!! Proud of your efforts there. I have lived that dream on a smaller scale and that is a great effort. I hate those OCD Auto Elecs that make it look like Art. FFS there is so much going on you have to pack it in. You should be very pleased with that effort mate. My GQ Centre Console is awesome but behind the scenes looks messy but it works, its safe and its fused. Stuff the Haters. Great effort mate.

Still Scary as Faarrrkkk. But i remember the first time i saw your rig OMFG! you burned a hole in my brain. This is a huge move forward mate. Well done.

[MudRunnerTD]

and on the bright side..... If it does catch fire at least your feet will be warm..... :p

[MudRunnerTD]

I want to see the fuse box cover with the sticker on it that says which fuse does what??

i use an Ap on my phone for lists, this would be a great spot to keep a fuse list like that! that is Epic mate.

[PeeBee]

Thanks Darren, the time taken to number and document all the cables at the fuse box is a bit redundant as the individual fuses are LED illuminated if they blow and I have taken the time to only run 1 wire per circuit, so if the fuse blows i will know immediately which circuit is at fault. Regards fires, well, I am very experienced at hitting isolators at the batteries now and also ripping battery terminals off in confined spaces! I wont bother with the fuse lids unless they fit easily, let alone labels.

I also have a weird noise happening on start up from the A/C pump area. It sounds a lot like a belt sticking and releasing from a surface for maybe the first 5 minutes then it disappears. I can't find a fault with the a/c pump or clutch and its all working well - put it down to the super stiff 8 rib belts getting some sort of 'permanent set' when it sits for a while - like the old cross ply tires that needed 2klm to push the flat spot out on start up - then as it does a few laps it heats up a bit and disappears - weird. I will see if i can video it and post it. Like I said, nothing detrimental happening, maybe just the way it is?

Anyway, I am cleaning out the garage at the moment and will then get into the 3 wires issue and non working accessories later this week.

[MudRunnerTD]

Did good mate.

My 37 Treps were brutal after sitting for 6 months. They needed a run down the freeway to loosen up and warm up and loose the flat spot.

Can't wait to crawl all over this thing mate. Sik build.

[PeeBee]

So, been a bit busy with this latest mod. I decided to bolster the actual cooling capacity as I am not reaching the cooling numbers portrayed on the FI youtube clips. I did read also that vehicles with the FI Interchiller installed for track work, needed to add the additional ambient air heat exchanger, and this translates i believe to the 4WD touring scenario. I bought a couple of the extruded aluminum finned hex. and rigged up a circuit to take the fluid from the outlet of the w2a unit in the inlet manifold, chill it using a 3" rule bilge fan at nominal 100cfm and send the water back to the holding tank and this added approx 2L of coolant supply, which is a plus.
I dont have pics of the actual build, however the hex are encased in a custom insulated box, The inlet air is sourced from the pass side Bullbar wing, utilising a simple PVC drain fitting that is strong enough to take branches and easy to twist out and clean.

I have pics of the finished job, however Bigpond is on a go slow today and the attachments are not downloading. Also replaced a faulty water temp sender unit, and tomorrow will dive into the 3 wires that dont have a home from the latest rewire.

[PeeBee]

OK, Telstra got the message and let the attachments come thru. The heat exchanger is mounted on top of the Pass front spring tower. I checked the clearance and there is plenty of room for the tyre. The lines are run in 3/4" heater hose and suitably protected. I will need to insulate the ones inside the engine bay, however it was very tight as you could imagine.816568165781658

[MudRunnerTD]

You are not trying hard enough Phil!!!!!!


THIS!!!

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/08/64.jpg

Sent from my SM-G977B using Tapatalk

[PeeBee]

You are not trying hard enough Phil!!!!!!


THIS!!!

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/08/64.jpg

Sent from my SM-G977B using Tapatalk

You got me, 'Lay down Sally at my best'. I bet that thing is a missile, probably someone else in lockdown with too much time on their hands!

[PeeBee]

Think I came out in front today by a whisker. The 'dead instruments was simply a missing jumper cable from one fuse block to the next. The 3 remaining cables remain a mystery, however will have a look again tomorrow, as the roof camping lights are now dead. The roof mounted lightbar has started to flicker after approx 30 secs of running - will check the earth first, but it might be about to die. All other high beam aux. lights are operating fine. In discussions with the water temp sensor guys as one is stuck on minus 10 degC - even if left in ambient air or dunked in hot tap water, have already replaced the sensor, so suspect its the controller.

Wired up the aux heat exchanger fan so thats done, so apart from the temp sensor, its just the checking of the vehicle earth bonding re the HF interference on 7-8MHz.

[PeeBee]

All dead instruments are now alive, the flickering light was a dying relay, so replaced that, pulled all the earth points apart, cleaned them up and rebolted - tried radio, however there is so much background noise from Metro melb its not possible to check for success. I did add another 2 earth straps though. Tomorrow is the roofrack lights and installation of the in-line fuel heater.

[PeeBee]

Pulled the converted Nissan seat and Bostrum base out today, wasn't happy with the overall 'travel ' of the seat, so 5 hrs later after a myriad of minor changes, its how i wanted it. Fixed the roof lights, now chasing why the rear camera/rear vision mirror device has gone 'offline' With luck will have a look at the winch 'speed up project' next week, x4 line speed, so in theory 5fpm to 20fpm in low gear and 12fpm to 50fpm in high, which is really just a rope retrieve function. Its going to be a mission for sure.

[PeeBee]

Took a break from tidying the garage - been at it 3 weeks - 15 yrs of disorganisation, what a job. Anyway, mounted the emerg 12V PS pump. It will normally be carried either inside the vehicle in a storage area or under th vehicle in a storage box - have not decided. The pump came with its own bracket however required mods as expected. I am waiting on some fittings to arrive to duplicate the connections on the PS pump, then a simple job of heading to Pirtek and getting the hoses made up. Power will be by flying lead connectors, and just need to ascertain if I need a PS or not for the flow - any idea? There is a loom supplied with 3 small wires as well as the large cables to drive the pump - came with an 80amp fuse. I have had a crap run with the Chev PS pumps fitted to this engine, so if it fails up the bush, its a relatively simple job to swap out the hoses at the steering box. The RHS is just a spacer for set up. Bracket is bolted to the bullbar upright where the old tow hook used to be.
817458174681747

[mudski]

Am I reading this right. An emergency power steering pump?

[PeeBee]

Am I reading this right. An emergency power steering pump?

YEP. Try and drive your car without a PS pump - next to impossible. For the extra effort worth the back up. The standard patrol PS pumps are pretty reliable, the chev pumps, prone to failure

[Rossco]

Yeah have done it before in a GQ and it's certainly a workout . . Probably harder with a big block chevy lol. . .

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[PeeBee]

Yeah have done it before in a GQ and it's certainly a workout . . Probably harder with a big block chevy lol. . .

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

500m turning circle, 100kg effort to barely move the wheel, went thru this when building the engine, and then when the pump crapped out on me after 3klm - had to take a very long loop way home and even then a right turn at the lights had me almost on th footpath before straightening up - never again. Could not imagine trying to get out of the high country tracks.

[mudski]

YEP. Try and drive your car without a PS pump - next to impossible. For the extra effort worth the back up. The standard patrol PS pumps are pretty reliable, the chev pumps, prone to failure

Ah! the Chev pump. Yeah I'm thinking, how often would a Patrol pump fail? just about never.

[PeeBee]

Ah! the Chev pump. Yeah I'm thinking, how often would a Patrol pump fail? just about never.

Egggzackerry. The n/a build of this motor had the nissan pump, but it changes for the 8 rib serpy drive. And as far as carrying a direct replacement, forget it - its a 6 hr spider finger alphabet swear word adventure, and then you need a 40 t press to get the pulley off and back on - there are a host of crappy design solutions on this setup I can assure you. I do have a spare PS pump I used to use to drive the hydraulic winch - its small and simple, in fact a replacement to the Chev unit I understand in the US on some models, however have not looked at the brackets as they would be totally different.

[MB]

It’s official, you are out of control again Philstar Old Mate! You were doing so well too gutting out some weight for next open day adventures to come[emoji106]You have honestly saved me before though with the multitude of spare parts onboard the 4.0T beast nearly again!!
LOVE IT [emoji106][emoji106]




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[PeeBee]

It’s official, you are out of control again Philstar Old Mate! You were doing so well too gutting out some weight for next open day adventures to come[emoji106]You have honestly saved me before though with the multitude of spare parts onboard the 4.0T beast nearly again!!
LOVE IT [emoji106][emoji106]




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You are more than welcome @MB. I have a final addition to resolve being the 12v Proflow vac pump as a back up to the Chev vac pump. Both the vac and PS pumps are a failure point, well documented. Unfortunately I need the existing belt path as have a multitude of spare 8 rib belts now, so can't economically delete the Vac pump from the system without blowing $500 of belts!, similar in some ways to the PS pump which is really a 'brown dog' style found on commodores etc - Saginaw style, but the 8 rib pulley is pressed onto the shaft instead of doing a keyway and locking washer, absolutely impossible to retrofit in the field. Buying a spare pump and pulley is close to $900, so different approaches needed.

Still mulling over the speed change to the winch - can see the pro's and cons for sure, apart from the difficulty of installation.

If we get out of stage 4, its still wait for Stage 2 before any weekends away I believe. I suspect I might be back up north by then, but locked in QLD until the borders open enough to let me resume a FIFO roster - waiting to hear still about my funding and if i can start running stuff from Melb.When we hit Stage 2, first trip is a week into Burgoynes, non negotiable. Had this booked with my brother for Sept, but doubt it will happen.

[PeeBee]

Loving this lock down time, left alone all day in the garage catching up on 'stuff'. Today was 'bracket day, 3 started and completed. The first was the finalisation of the emerg PS pump bracket, the second was design and fabrication of the manual throttle speed increase 'jigger' ( I decided to go a bit more refined than the 'bally string thing' I had fabricated earlier). I ordered a 12V actuator from the big USA and it arrived 2 days ago. Made a mount bracket, took hours, installed it, powered it to move the solenoid plunger and it had the push of a dead slater - hopeless - no idea where it supposedly should have been fitted on the IP as there are no photos or instructions, so started again this morning and went back to a simple threaded device - works a treat, operates on the 'cam' on the opposite side of the IP to the throttle cable. last bracket was to hard mount the cruise control diaphragm plunger - I suspect this having been floating instead of hard fixed is the possible reason the CC has not worked since I munched the cable in the radiator fan blades - will see if I am right next time I get out in the beast.81785817868178781788Finally, here is the completed installation, all done!81789

[PeeBee]

This caught my eye today. I have been in contact with Torqueline garage and need to do a final measure up of the rims to confirm fitment. It appears the system will fit on the 15" white rims after all, but i need to confirm the dimensions. putting this together for assessment re either a hydro boost brake upgrade or stay with system I have and upgrade the calipers front and rear. Bit of coin, but it sure would stop well, 8 pots on the front and 4 pots on the back.
https://torquelinegarage.com.au/wilwood-nissan-gq-gu-patrol-brake-upgrade-front-6-piston-calipers/
https://torquelinegarage.com.au/wilwood-nissan-gq-gu-patrol-brake-upgrade-rear-4-piston-calipers/
Kits come with everything from rotors, caliper, pads bearings, hoses.
3 weeks leadtime. 6K landed on my doorstep. Thinking thinking thinking.......

[MB]

Cryogenically treated reading your big work toys are doing these days too mate!

https://ctpcryogenics.com/services/transportation/mining-truck-brakes/


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[PeeBee]

Cryogenically treated reading your big work toys are doing these days too mate!

https://ctpcryogenics.com/services/transportation/mining-truck-brakes/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That is interesting reading for sure. Interesting science as well, don't understand it, but interesting.

[tryan277]

Dave
Could save yourself nearly a grand
https://www.rodshop.com.au/wilwood-disc-brake-kits/gq-gu-patrol-wilwood-brake-front-kit-6-piston-calipers.html

Cheers Trevor

[nipagu7]

peebee , on those links that you provided , the fine print off to the right says you need to run at least 17inch wheels . expensive but i think they would work great and no mucking around with hydraulics .

[PeeBee]

peebee , on those links that you provided , the fine print off to the right says you need to run at least 17inch wheels . expensive but i think they would work great and no mucking around with hydraulics .

Yes, I saw that and laboured the point with the guy over 7 emails. The final comment was he thought I might be able to fit them inside the Nissan supplied 15" rims, however this based on me incorrectlu telling him the dia of the EFI discs were at 330mm, when they are in fact 306mm, so before moving forward I am going to pull the spare wheel off and check dimensions, including offset. If he says the rims will fit, yes its a possibility for sure as ultimately I think I will get better disc and pad life out of clamping pressures at say 1000psi instead of going the hydroboost route where you get around 2200 -2500psi. Its a coin toss right now and 6 months away. I stumbled across these by fluke. Going 17" is not a big killer except I have only just put a set of 15" KM2's in the beast. If I must go 17" then they will be rims from Huntsman that are beadlocked, so in summary, 6/4pot assy could run out at close to 10K when its all said an done with rims, tires and the kit or 1.5 - 2k for the hydroboost. I know which one the wife will want - NEITHER!!! I have already upgraded the fronts to the twin pot EFI discs, and they stop ok but nothing brilliant - car is very heavy.

[PeeBee]

Dave
Could save yourself nearly a grand
https://www.rodshop.com.au/wilwood-disc-brake-kits/gq-gu-patrol-wilwood-brake-front-kit-6-piston-calipers.html

Cheers Trevor

Thanks for the link Trevor, yes a spin up to Castlemaine for the day to get these swapped over is a possibility and the 1K difference is worth the drive as it will basically pay for the labour or I just buy the kit and swap them over myself.

[nipagu7]

just out of curiosity , what brake pads would the wilwood caliper run . nissan spec or some other

[PeeBee]

just out of curiosity , what brake pads would the wilwood caliper run . nissan spec or some other

Willwood pads, custom jobbies

[poindexter]

yes, the issue of brakes is an interesting one.
I too have looked at these and the ones from "Rugged" as well, even talking to the dude at the 4x4 show last year (sweet memories of going to shows).
The common issue with the brake upgrades is: where do you get the "wear items" from? Pads, caliper seals, rotors etc.
You do get options with different pads compounds, so a lot of choice.
Might be a problem away from the 'burbs me thinks.
If thats not a problem, they do look good. Very tempted, however....
Ive gone with Hydroboost and braided stainless hoses as this seems to be quite reliable if the US forums are anything to go by.
great that there are options out there....

[PeeBee]

yes, the issue of brakes is an interesting one.
I too have looked at these and the ones from "Rugged" as well, even talking to the dude at the 4x4 show last year (sweet memories of going to shows).
The common issue with the brake upgrades is: where do you get the "wear items" from? Pads, caliper seals, rotors etc.
You do get options with different pads compounds, so a lot of choice.
Might be a problem away from the 'burbs me thinks.
If thats not a problem, they do look good. Very tempted, however....
Ive gone with Hydroboost and braided stainless hoses as this seems to be quite reliable if the US forums are anything to go by.
great that there are options out there....

I think the reline issue for replacement pads is pretty mature, so not a concern, however if I go this path I will buy a complete set of pads anyway. The challenge is the 17" wheels right now as have a near new set of 15" M/T. The system definitely needs the 17" rime, which also potentially limits my 'remote area' tyre choices i think, but then again there are thousands of 17 wheels running around the country I guess. The hydro boost may win out, but that damn chev PS pump failure is in the back of my mind and irks me - actually was doing a surf around just now for alternate options - I do have a PS pump I purchased and used with good effect that was an alternate offering/recommendation by Milemarker when I bought the hydraulic winch - ran the winch for a number of years with it and its still in great condition - slightly more flowrate capacity than the Saginaw and higher pressure also - might dig it out and have a look at that, but it needs a remote reservoir also.

Where are you up to with yours? I am essentially done.

[poindexter]

If you are comfortable with the "reline issue", then I think the brake upgrade is not a concern.
Given that the "gold standard" of 4x4 have 17" rims, I think that should not be such an issue these days.
I had a 6.5 in a rangie years ago with the GM p/s pump, I never had a failure.
There are plenty of alternate pumps that fit the same brackets etc, so I don't understand what the problem is.
why carry the electric p/s pump, when you can carry a spare GM pump is something I have not come to grips with yet, given the weight and complexity issues.
My conversion is nearing the end, I've organised the trans cal which was my biggest challenge with the 6L90. Keen to get it on the road and start the tuning.

[PeeBee]

If you are comfortable with the "reline issue", then I think the brake upgrade is not a concern.
Given that the "gold standard" of 4x4 have 17" rims, I think that should not be such an issue these days.
I had a 6.5 in a rangie years ago with the GM p/s pump, I never had a failure.
There are plenty of alternate pumps that fit the same brackets etc, so I don't understand what the problem is.
why carry the electric p/s pump, when you can carry a spare GM pump is something I have not come to grips with yet, given the weight and complexity issues.
My conversion is nearing the end, I've organised the trans cal which was my biggest challenge with the 6L90. Keen to get it on the road and start the tuning.

I know, we can all have great long term runs, and then some don't, mine lasted 3klm, and I just dont trust that pump. If you know of a direct replacement that fits the brackets, pls let me know. Regards the electric pump, well I can only assume you have not had the luxury of changing that pig of a pump whilst its actually in the vehicle with the radiator in place? The job took me 6 frickin' hours and then, the pulley is pressed onto the shaft - a 30T press could not even move it, so I had BD supply a warranty new pump and pulley. BD wanted $900 for a spare pump and 8 rib pulley, forget it, I have the 12V pump mounted, the steering box connections arrived today, so its simply down to Pirtek for a couple of hoses. It cas sit in a cubby hole for the rest of its life and never be used, happy with that, BUT, I need a spare especially if it fails up the bush as that barge is next to impossible to steer without the power assist. Its probably a 45min job at worst to swap the lines and power up the pump, and its all in relative open areas or accessible compared to the gopher hole you have to work with on the existing pump, so unless i find a different pump thats my solution for now.

[PeeBee]

Finally installed a pressure gauge on the hyd winch - was on the list for ages. happy with the installation, system pressure is less than 100psi at idle. Also installed the new in-line fuel heater just prior to the under bonnet filter, it looks like a glowplug inserted into a short length of 25mm RHS. Its got a simple thermostat to control the max temp - can't recall what it is but configured for the USA vehicles. Just have to finish off the 12V+ line with fuse and done. Happy day today, no smoke testing, no leaks after everything was done back up - finally getting things right it seems.

[PeeBee]

Added the electric oil pressure gauge setup today, pig of a job, difficult access to get to the original sender. Anyway, its done, looked good at the start, now indicating zero pressure when the oil is hot, but stutters and picks up when the revs rise. I am onto SAAS tech support to see if i have installed correctly - there is a reference to a max wire dia for the sense cable, this might be the issue. Apart from that its good.

Here is a link to the video of the gauge stuttering to take off https://www.icloud.com/attachment/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fcvws.icloud-content.com%2FB%2FAfJay4B0MuGZQik5FhPQmqLrRqhBAap6 CooUZQaxkl-nHXwi6NkXrQcc%2F%24%7Bf%7D%3Fo%3DAtEdAQFX0KVaYQlQp v0qeuNRasE8HpzrgQETk8wem3K-%26v%3D1%26x%3D3%26a%3DCAogA4u1AceULAl8MS8KNJYZ18d jpOtDBHY_A5H_eQD_YwoSeRC72tDjxi4Yu-rLt9AuIgEAKggByAD_Kc-FaFIE60aoQVoEF60HHGonq30_yyPzo-4IqBpmSR-7n8_dAGfGqGSae1rP7xZ3se9E-Ra8Z12Wcie-Smbb2Zq_WkoqJ0dH7JR-jSzB-imMpvOj5IYfKEsSqu9FxL-uOyE%26e%3D1602139387%26fl%3D%26r%3D23FDE9BD-397D-4C67-A2B5-3943D5E415F1-1%26k%3D%24%7Buk%7D%26ckc%3Dcom.apple.largeattachm ent%26ckz%3DDD0152F9-AB99-4122-BB31-A6E80307F47F%26p%3D64%26s%3Dkw9Dm_fj3ZpKw_tOXX1k9m-XcOs&uk=6GWPrbU2po2nI1KStZHmiw&f=IMG_5331.MOV&sz=47981446

81950

[MB]

NEW GQ dash pod is truly impressive Philstar Mate, very tidy Tops!!
My NEW NBN Satellite dishy just nearly caught on fire though....48.00 mega busting video :-)
Best on ‘Private’ Youtubey as AB once tought us reduced McMegapascals or some bloody thing [emoji106][emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[PeeBee]

NEW GQ dash pod is truly impressive Philstar Mate, very tidy Tops!!
My NEW NBN Satellite dishy just nearly caught on fire though....48.00 mega busting video :-)
Best on ‘Private’ Youtubey as AB once tought us reduced McMegapascals or some bloody thing [emoji106][emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You explain things so clearly!

Jousting day tomorrow about this crappy instrument, first time SAAS has let me down, I got a dud and took ages to install it as well!

Don't stand in front of the dish by the way, it will nuke your goolies and you will be unattractive to the ladies.

[MB]

Isn’t our beloved SAAS of old selling into SCA these days lesser?


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[PeeBee]

Isn’t our beloved SAAS of old selling into SCA these days lesser?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No idea. If so maybe the quantity over quality has prevailed?

[MudRunnerTD]

It’s official, you are out of control again Philstar Old Mate! You were doing so well too gutting out some weight for next open day adventures to come[emoji106]You have honestly saved me before though with the multitude of spare parts onboard the 4.0T beast nearly again!!
LOVE IT [emoji106][emoji106]




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Electric Blanket for the fuel lines on the Snow Swag Trip comes to mind...... and a Purple Gimp Suit... I still think i imagined that though. :p

[PeeBee]

OK, the plot thickens. the Streetline range from SAAS is their entry level gauge - didn't know that - and they use a Stepper motor system which produces a stuttering or staged gauge indication - needle bounces up and down like its passing a threhld - horrible looking device. Also the sense wire is constrained to be no larger in dia than 0.8mm, and not too long - but no maximum length given and no factory supplied loom apart from a pigtale. I had the sense run in 1.0mm wire so i downgraded this to 0.6mm as the instructions say 'max 0.8mm'. Anyway, rewired the sense, fired it up, same result, zero psi at idle and the factory gauge is reading 20psi or there abouts. SAAS make a Muscle Line series which uses a different system and is smooth in operation. I am now leaning towards a VDO replacement with a 0 - 500kpa scale which is more in line with the expected pressure range i should expect to see. bit of a learning curve again. I am waiting to hear back from VDO regards the options and if their kit comes with a full loom or not

[PeeBee]

Electric Blanket for the fuel lines on the Snow Swag Trip comes to mind...... and a Purple Gimp Suit... I still think i imagined that though. :p

Funny thing Daz, even with the fuel additive and the heaters, i still experienced jelling issues. After thinking about this I think the issue is my final filtration level is too fine. i run a final stage of 2 micron after a 6 micron initial at the water/fuel seperator near the fuel tanks. I am going to de-rate this final stage to circa 6 micron and see how that goes next time. i am simply looking to provide max protection for the brand new injector pump but maybe the mesh is too small.

I don't know what the purple gimp suit reference is about either - maybe you were on a bender???

[MudRunnerTD]

I don't know what the purple gimp suit reference is about either - maybe you were on a bender???

100% i was on a Bender. Great memories Sir. we need to get back out there.

[PeeBee]

100% i was on a Bender. Great memories Sir. we need to get back out there.

Soon as the restrictions lift, lets go. Both thse trips were good ones. i have a slightly extended one in mind also.

[BillsGU]

Did you test the sender unit? They should read about 13 ohms at zero PSI. I have heard of wires being too thin - but too thick? Why would that be?

[PeeBee]

Did you test the sender unit? They should read about 13 ohms at zero PSI. I have heard of wires being too thin - but too thick? Why would that be?

Yes I did test that and 13.1ohms, so ok. Why the max wire dia., has me stumped and in the end, putting in the compliant wire didn't make a difference. Anyway, this one is going into the bin, have just spoken with Namiss in NSW and bought a VDO unit and sender from them, o-500kpa, spoke to the service tech, happy days. Must admit, twice the price of the identical unit off ebay, but I got to discuss what i wanted, what i had problems with, and am sure I will get the right outcome. And, further to your comment regards the wire size, specifically asked the question and they say anything from 1.5-3mm for the sense is absolutely fine, up to 6m distance between sender and gauge, so, i can leave the existing wiring in place, some minor terminal changes and then the wrestle to reinstall the sender and its done, reckon a 2 hr job all up.

[BillsGU]

Yep - max wire size makes no sense at all - unless the resistance of the wire was part of the calibration of the gauge. If so - that would be crap - and you are much better off with a more reliable and better designed gauge.

[PeeBee]

Righto, swapped out the SAAS oil Pressure gauge and sender for a new VDO gauge and sender, and it is fine, registers there is oil pressure when hot and at idle, just like its supposed to. SAAS unit going in the bin.

New pressure pump arrived today for the radiator mist system, all plumbed, just waiting on the nozzles.

Replacement temp sensor and gauge finally arrived - 3 weeks from Sydney. The VDO unit was ordered two days ago and arrived this morning - go figure. Still waiting for my 'warranty return' to reach the sensor people though.

[MB]

Belated apologies Philstar Mate!
Yep, when I purchased some SCA - SAAS new age gauges some 5 odd years ago, my auto sparky flat out refused to install them in my then 6.5 new radiator twin thermofan mountain rebuilding works underway.
Woori Yallock Legend I think I’ve mentioned before puts his own truck through same same as us punishment up there and agreed all I could afford at the time was to stick with old faithful copper mechanical wire for heat and an illegal cheapo oil tube into the cab gauge.
Oneday I’ll save up too for some VDO elecy goodness as I’ve done all my dosh on Mrs MB’s Redarc flashy/noisey wagon kit :-)





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[PeeBee]

Belated apologies Philstar Mate!
Yep, when I purchased some SCA - SAAS new age gauges some 5 odd years ago, my auto sparky flat out refused to install them in my then 6.5 new radiator twin thermofan mountain rebuilding works underway.
Woori Yallock Legend I think I’ve mentioned before puts his own truck through same same as us punishment up there and agreed all I could afford at the time was to stick with old faithful copper mechanical wire for heat and an illegal cheapo oil tube into the cab gauge.
Oneday I’ll save up too for some VDO elecy goodness as I’ve done all my dosh on Mrs MB’s Redarc flashy/noisey wagon kit :-)





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I should have gone VDO to begin with. The cost differential was about $30, but it cost me 4 hrs of my time to find out I had the wrong gear. I was lucky to stumble across the guys in NSW who are instrument/gauge suppliers, repairers and calibration techs. They confirmed the short comings of the stepper motor design and pedigree and we discussed what else was avail - don't put a cost ceiling on it - just match what I want to the device. We went thru about 5-6 different brands and VDO came up trumps. He never has a warranty issue with them, and they are fitted as OEM with a wide range of suppliers. I won't mention the other brands but basically he steered me away from them for a range of reasons, including on brand that is quite expensive and he has frequent warranty recalls.

I am happy with the quality as have a number of VDO gauges already, Boost/Volt/Fuel Tank and now oil pressure. Happy days moving forward. Tomorrow I will refit the warranty temp set and that completes the instrument side of thigs I think.

By the way, there are 3 levels of quality in the SAAS range. The SCA level, which is the one I initially bought, then a truck Line range and performance range. Whether they offer anything spectacular over the baseline apart from cost I will never find out, but the vendor was keen to upsell me within the SAAS range - errr, no thanks!

[MB]

I certainly wish they wrote that level of information on the boxes too mate!
Anyone need some free SAAS guages out there, still dusty in my shed...free to Prado home :-)


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[mudnut]

Gotta hand it to VDO. They made the gauges that were fitted in Dad's boat. After many, many hours of getting thrashed on the bay, they never let us down.

[MB]

I have a selectively shocking memory but do vividly recall Legends like nissannewby swearing by their performance accuracies too [emoji106][emoji106]


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[PeeBee]

Warranty replacement temp probe and display in and functioning as it should. That just about wraps up this build apart from the 12v PS hoses which are not important. Now, just waiting for Uncle Dan to let us out so a bit of fun can take place!!

[mudnut]

Well done. Now you can come down here and start on building mine, Phil.

[PeeBee]

Well done. Now you can come down here and start on building mine, Phil.

That was the top of my list for sure but Chairman Dan has me restrict to the 5klm radius rule so we will have to do this via email.

[mudnut]

Excuses, excuses...

[MudRunnerTD]

**SNIP**

I don't know what the purple gimp suit reference is about either - maybe you were on a bender???


82043


Still haunts me, I was definitely on a Bender

[Winnie]

Wtf is that!!! [emoji33]

Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk

[MudRunnerTD]

Wtf is that!!! [emoji33]

Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk

Photoshopped..

[PeeBee]

Thats weird. Might be a reason to stay out of the high country, could reappear without warning.

[PeeBee]

82043


Still haunts me, I was definitely on a Bender

Check out the smiles on those faces, absolute gold.

[AB]

Check out the smiles on those faces, absolute gold.

Smiles of trauma and fear lol


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[Rossco]

Is that buttonman??

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[MudRunnerTD]

Check out the smiles on those faces, absolute gold.

Terrified Nervous Tension

[MB]

Way too High on Cones top peak the lotta y’all, dinkum oxygen deprivation possibly too :-)
Great memories, this is why we seek to build tuffer trucks like Phil [emoji106][emoji106]
Nigh nigh Daz, sleep tight Vegemite :-)

https://youtu.be/_N0jeLGIcw8


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[PeeBee]

Spray nozzles arrived today, so installed and job done.82078

[mudnut]

Check out the smiles on those faces, absolute gold.

Purple Vein Man rides again.

[poindexter]

just out of interest where have you guys connected the heater hoses to?
I'm guessing there's one on the water pump, and the other on the thermostat housing right?
And are you happy with where they are located?

cheers

[PeeBee]

One connection on thermostat housing, the other directly off the top of the head next to firewall. I currently have only 1 head connected, however when I can be bothered, i will link both the head water jacket ports together and tee into the heat circuit. I am running the 130gpm water pump with spin on duramax fan, so the original connection off the water pump is deleted.

[PeeBee]

Hooked up the spray bar assy and tried it out. Very fine fog spays, will see how this goes, may need higher volume, but droplet size seems about right

Decided to go a bit discrete on the ARB Intensity light bar, ditched the red for black, happy with the result.
8213682137

[PeeBee]

Newly installed fuel heater leaked after 45 minutes use. thread tape disintegrated and the heater element and socket are both parallel threads, so leaked. piss poor design to be honest. waiting for a response from the manufacturer in the US. Another bee sting.
8214382144. I think i will disassemble and redesign/build it to how it should have been in the first place and remove the high pressure drop across the device as well.

[PeeBee]

OK, manufacturer of the heater has responded. 'Use more teflon tape, we use the white stuff but the yellow is better because its thicker and will seal the threads better' - what a total joke of a response. Back into the garage I go to fix another dud product.

[0-TJ-0]

OK, manufacturer of the heater has responded. 'Use more teflon tape, we use the white stuff but the yellow is better because its thicker and will seal the threads better' - what a total joke of a response. Back into the garage I go to fix another dud product.

Have you got some thread sealant Phil? Not sure of the brand, but it's basically loctite. I use it instead of Teflon for 90% of my automotive stuff.. I'll see if I can find the tub of what I use. I find it's brilliant for that kind of thing.

This;

82157

82158

It's out of date but still works. I use it on pretty much anything and everything. Don't find it locks up the threads too bad when you want to take it back apart either. Never had a leak with it.

[PeeBee]

Thanks very much. I have the straight PTFE liquid sealant and I think I may have a small container of something like that as well, remember seeing it during the garage clean up probably stored away now so i can't find it. PTFE should be fine, used it before - i suspect these guys have used sellotape by the look of it!

[PeeBee]

Found this stuff. typically use the Loctite in the white tube but Stag and the Mirror look like they would also suffice.8215982160

[nissannewby]

Use the stag. Make sure all surfaces are very clean. The other stuff that works well is the loctite hydraulic sealant. I use it a lot on all tapered fittings at work. Its a liquid and only requires a few drops like thread locker.

Edit- its loctite 569.

[PeeBee]

Installed the hose to link the two heads cooling circuit on the chev. There were issues with far earlier models of the 6.5 with overheating of cylinders against the firewall. The Optimiser redesign apparently fixed this, but I have done the mod anyway to be sure. The water flows out thru the heater and back to the motor. I simply have to have the heater line cracked to get the flow, which won't be a problem as the Interchiller has the a/c running all the time - won't even notice the heat.

[PeeBee]

Insulated and foil lagged the final aux hoses for the additional heat exchanger on the Interchiller, damn fiddly and time consuming, but now sure I have the best chance of holding the cooling water temps down where they are designed to run. Started in collating the on board spare so i know what I have and where its located.

[PeeBee]

Fabricated the storage box for the spare P/S pump and Vac Pump, had the necessary hoses made up by Pirtek today, all good, stored away in the back of the truck, hope I never have to use either.

[PeeBee]

Bought a set of the Marks4x4 over drive gears today. When they arrive I will get them fitted, happy days

[PeeBee]

Overdrive Gears and spacer arrived today, picked up replacement main shaft bearing 'just in case'. Installation Dec 15
82580

[PeeBee]

Few stats from a couple of days away out to Vic East Gippsland. Ambient temp circa 30 degC
Cruising Speed 110kph, 2000rpm, 33" tyres 3.9 diffs and 5 speed manual trans ( using two GPS speed references) 100kph - 1925rpm - fuel consumption circa 18.5l/100klm - off fuel flow meter
Cruising fuel consumption 21L/100klm @110kph - off fuel flow meter
Boost 14psi
Under bonnet temps 88-92 degC
Inlet air temp to s/c 41C
Inlet air post s/c i/c and to engine 46C - measured in one leg of inlet manifold
Inlet water temp to Interchiller 28C
Water temp post i/c coil 39C
Rad temp inlet temp post engine 82-88degC
Rad water temp post radiator 70 - 76C
Trans temp 68DegC
Transfer case temp 68DegC
Oil temp off cooler 42degC
Fuel pressure 10psi
EGT 170DegC
Running AFM water injection spray into inlet of s/c from 5psi
I/c pump flow rate 54lpm
I/c Pump system pressure 32psi thru 3/4" hoses
Modified external spray bar on radiator when in low range drops temp 5 deg in under a minute, however the water mist does lubricate the 8 rib belt and it will squeal. Rad temps rise quickly to 94degC at slow speed, moderate eng revs, then hit button to knock it back down - happy with this set up.

So happy with everything except the fuel consumption right now. Over drive gears go in this tuesday, so cruising rpm should drop to 1730 - 1800 and fuel consumption drop accordingly. Will see.

Only negative is i think the a/c pump is struggling under the pump pressure or the clutch is struggling as it appears to be getting so hot it won't release when de-energised - sort of a stutter when the engine is actually turned off shortly after a run - could be a faulty clutch as well i guess but its only run for less than 3000klm at most.

[MB]

Awesome honest update info Philstar Mate[emoji106][emoji106]
From what I remember of the old 6.5NA Shed Queen [emoji23]
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/12/72.jpg
Those snippet (apologies) basic radiator temperatures are beyond perfect IMO.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/12/73.jpg
Again apologise for picture snippet but spray systems I’ve embarrassingly helped install on close mates TD42T’s are a dead set waste of time. As you kindly pass on, very short lived help and merely a bandaid for an insufficient setup [emoji106][emoji106]




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[PeeBee]

@MB, in low range they control the heat rise beautifully on my installation. The simple solution is good radiator coverage and ample water for the right amount of time. The first two spray bars i installed failed miserably. The sprays were too fine and the volume too low. I ended up going to a local irrigation shop and buying brass spray heads at 1LPM rating and 180 deg spray pattern. I run 4 of them off a 4LPM diaphragm pump. They could be be described as a deluge nozzle, large water droplets. I don't know what the actual delivered flowrate is, and cannot tell if the pump is cycling or not when its on against any back pressure. I didn't bother trying at speed as my temps were totally under control.

Regards 'insufficient system', maybe a bit harsh for the poor old radiator. Its no doubt working a lot harder that Mr Nissan designed it for,(certainly the real estate area afforded for a radiator on the Nissan is a lot smaller than the US tanks) plus there would be a lot of motors and cooling systems out there that have been jinked around with and not running to factory speck anymore. My system does the job, costs under $100 and takes 4 hrs to fabricate and install. If you are running a vee belt drive i would guess the belts may not squeal like the shallow 8 rib, but this is a short lived interruption to my tranquility as the water quickly evaporates.

[MB]

Late night harshness whoops [emoji51]
1 litre per minute, how many hours climbing through to the Zoo camp X litres X weight guesstimated? Have you got a decent elecy thermo fan out front shoveling slow speed air through Philstar?


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[PeeBee]

Late night harshness whoops [emoji51]
1 litre per minute, how many hours climbing through to the Zoo camp X litres X weight guesstimated? Have you got a decent elecy thermo fan out front shoveling slow speed air through Philstar?


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The water is drawn from the on-board water tank. It holds 120L. If I draw down 20L in a weekend trip I would be surprised, especially at how effective the water wash is at transferring the heat. I run a monster 16" elec fan on the front of the radiator in-line with the mechanical. It pushes 2500cfm supposedly. I have a couple of smaller 12V fans sitting around and am always able to shuffle this one across a couple of inches and whack another 1000cfm+ thru the radiator if required. The removal of the grill itself has made a considerable difference I believe also. The elec fan is on all the time as its pushing air thru the two condensers for the Interchiller setup.

[PeeBee]

Truck stopped on the way out of the campsite on friday. Process of elimination revealed an in-line fuel shut off valve, solenoid actuated, off an anti theft setup had triggered the valve to close, and subsequently the engine ran out of fuel, as designed, only problem being that i had not triggered the valve to close. Today, I started looking further and what should have been a zero voltage relay output, has now decided to turn into a 0- 1.44 - 2.77V - 0 circular pulse to the relay . This is at rest, no engine running, so in fact may be higher again with the engine on. Lucky i had spare fuel hose and clamps to allow me to take the valve out of the fuel line, and get home to resolve. Off the road for maybe 30 mins, but covered in diesel all the way home - stinky shit it is.

Update, manufacturer contacted me from WA and is dumbfounded how this can happen, wants the unit back, together with the relay to see if there is in fact a fault with the unit, well, there is obviously as it should not trigger by itself. Will wait and see what the outcome is.

[poindexter]

"Under bonnet temps 88-92 degC"
that right there is a problem....

everything under the hood is being cooked, does the hood scoop not allow any heat to escape?
maybe raise the trailing edge of the hood to see if letting out the heat would drop the temps.

I'll check with the powertrain boys at work to see what they think, but to me thats seems high

[PeeBee]

"Under bonnet temps 88-92 degC"
that right there is a problem....

everything under the hood is being cooked, does the hood scoop not allow any heat to escape?
maybe raise the trailing edge of the hood to see if letting out the heat would drop the temps.

I'll check with the powertrain boys at work to see what they think, but to me thats seems high

Ralph, I am sure this is leading to the elevated inlet air temps to the s/c due to heat soak of the airbox and the air pipe. i am going to insulate both. I am also planning on a 6mm shim to begin with to raise the rear of the bonnet. I had a look today regards fitting the 4" bilge blowers and it is so tight now. I may have to retreat to 3" simply for space, however I think this is an area for improvement for sure. Only other thing I could bank on is some inaccuracy with the probes, however these are used elsewhere and have proved to be quite accurate, at most 2degC off during an IR check. I am also going to speak to Bullet about an insulation blanket over the externals of the blower. I also run an insulated blanket between the s/c inlet manifold and the motor valley - FI Interchillers sell that for about $100.

The big scoop is ineffective over about 30klm/hr according to the telltale ribbons i have used in the past - simply need to now stir up the air volume and force it out

[PeeBee]

Bit the bullet - again, and picked up a pair of BOSS rear spring mount stiffeners from Patrol A Part. Got a welcome and unexpected discount as well, having mentioned the Forum exposure they have. They will sit there for a job over the Xmas break I think.

[MB]

.......maybe raise the trailing edge of the hood to see if letting out the heat would drop the temps.

I'll check with the powertrain boys at work to see what they think, but to me thats seems high

G’day Ralph Mate!
Was kindly educated by some TD42 (very similar donk heat characteristics) Legends on here years ago that this is not the ADR-Roads legal answer :-) ?
Certainly proven to me at higher engine bay pressure needed speeds and was personally in the middle of slower speed tests with another 6.5 Manometer owner until he unfortunately moved on from here.
I do now have a ‘Blitz’ ADR compliant bonnet with slimline very very forward/front slits that works wonders on the highway assisting shoveling engine bay heat downwards/rearwards out below but do still wonder at slower speeds if it’s hindering my electrical fans pressurising the engine bay down and safely windscreen out!
Aim of the game as I understand is to get that hot shit out down low and away from all our up top good bits like your Superchargers?
By far the greatest ‘hot bits’ in our 6.5 V8 crammed GU & GQ conversions are the down low exhaust manifolds left/right firewall near touching and in my nuffy opinion the Powertrain Legends might agree that the fastest route out is below & backwards?

PS: Would it be fair to say that some TD42’s with giant top mount intercooler bonnet scoops run hotter overall at lower lugging speeds maybe?

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[Winnie]

PS: Would it be fair to say that some TD42’s with giant top mount intercooler bonnet scoops run hotter overall at lower lugging speeds maybe?

I'm not sure about that. I have the cross country top mount with the big scoop and have never had an issue with temps at low speeds. I've actually wondered whether it runs too low at slow speeds.
When pushing it at high speeds and towing I do have to keep a little eye on the temps on hot days.

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[MB]

Cheers Chrisso Mate, do you have an electrical fan on the IC to stop the hot air rising back through it when pushing hard up slow climbs?


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[Winnie]

Cheers Chrisso Mate, do you have an electrical fan on the IC to stop the hot air rising back through it when pushing hard up slow climbs?


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkYes I do, no idea if it works/how well it works because it's been on the whole time the cooler has been on so can't compare without it.

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[MB]

Awesome, this could be a perfect test opportunity Chrisso [emoji106][emoji106]
Unplug the elecy fan and do a second identical hill climb to measure EGT’s again for starters maybe?
Could always shove your BBQ temp probe into the engine bay rear upper area too?


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[poindexter]

G’day Ralph Mate!
Was kindly educated by some TD42 (very similar donk heat characteristics) Legends on here years ago that this is not the ADR-Roads legal answer :-) ?
Certainly proven to me at higher engine bay pressure needed speeds and was personally in the middle of slower speed tests with another 6.5 Manometer owner until he unfortunately moved on from here.
I do now have a ‘Blitz’ ADR compliant bonnet with slimline very very forward/front slits that works wonders on the highway assisting shoveling engine bay heat downwards/rearwards out below but do still wonder at slower speeds if it’s hindering my electrical fans pressurising the engine bay down and safely windscreen out!
Aim of the game as I understand is to get that hot shit out down low and away from all our up top good bits like your Superchargers?
By far the greatest ‘hot bits’ in our 6.5 V8 crammed GU & GQ conversions are the down low exhaust manifolds left/right firewall near touching and in my nuffy opinion the Powertrain Legends might agree that the fastest route out is below & backwards?

PS: Would it be fair to say that some TD42’s with giant top mount intercooler bonnet scoops run hotter overall at lower lugging speeds maybe?

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Under hood heat is quite an issue on some vehicles, when I was working at GM, the issue we had with the Commodore, the trans tunnel was so full that no air flow would occur, and the engine bay sides were sealed for drive by noise compliance, therefore, getting the air out was quite a problem.

Bringing this back to the Patrol, I'm not a fan of exiting the air downward.
At low speed exiting the air downward is problematic as heat will tend to rise, and vehicle speed may not be sufficient to push is down and out, plus you may be axle deep in "stuff". Thats why there are raised trailing edge hoods.
I'm currently looking at a passive solution that will allow the hot air to exit through a low pressure area on the hood, so that it will be effective at both low and high vehicle speeds.
If I can find the time over the Christmas break I hope to post some details, on my progress.

[PeeBee]

I have ordered the 2 bilge blowers, 3" diameter and will play around with these to begin with. The spacing of the bonnet even by 3mm will make a difference, and as long as its not obtrusive I may get away with it. Might start with 3mm then move to 6mm. thanks for the thoughts guys. I had gills in my bonnet as you might remember MB and whilst they emitted a heap of heat at low speed, stationary, the vehicle still hit 125degC on one occasion on that Hi Cone trip - after the long low range climb thru Darrens ' regrowth track. The point I am making is that natural venting was not sufficient to remove the heat. If I stir the air up and provide a physical high level gap for it to escape, the air volume will be displaced/replaced. Thats the theory anyway.

I will try to direct airflow towards the exhaust manifolds for sure on the basis i can push what i can out the bottom and what is rising out the windscreen gap.

[poindexter]

OK, had a conversation with the powertrain engineers about the under hood temps.
The consensus is that 65c is what is seen during Camaro ZL1 dyno runs, and that is what a "running" vehicle should be at,however, with heat soak goes up to 85c +.
The engineer thought that fans directed over the exhaust and exiting under the vehicle sounds like a solution, that is, if you can't vent through the hood (the Camaro has this hood venting)
All under hood plastics are generally rated to 140c from the factory. After market stuff (read Chinese) may not be so rated.
This is quite interesting, as I now have a hood without a scoop, and was not planing to add vents. So, active underhood venting may be a plan.....

[PeeBee]

OK, had a conversation with the powertrain engineers about the under hood temps.
The consensus is that 65c is what is seen during Camaro ZL1 dyno runs, and that is what a "running" vehicle should be at,however, with heat soak goes up to 85c +.
The engineer thought that fans directed over the exhaust and exiting under the vehicle sounds like a solution, that is, if you can't vent through the hood (the Camaro has this hood venting)
All under hood plastics are generally rated to 140c from the factory. After market stuff (read Chinese) may not be so rated.
This is quite interesting, as I now have a hood without a scoop, and was not planing to add vents. So, active underhood venting may be a plan.....

Thanks ralph, I have installed and wired up 2 off 100cfm bilge blowers generally directing air towards the exhaust headers. The rear of the bonnet is raised 10mm, and removed the rubber weather seal to allow a full flow condition at the windscreen. Once i have the bonnet catch resolved i will take it for a blast and report back. I do have a third 3" blower that I am thinking of mounting up higher in the bonnet area to stir up the upper air - just a thought at this time.

[PeeBee]

OK, update time.
Marks4x4 5th gear. Pre install 1925rpm at 100khr, now smack on 1600. Fuel now down to 15 - 17l/100, pretty damn happy, and sink the boot in 5th and off he goes. Whether this is the sweet spot or not for economy, don't care, it works.

Rear Coil replacement - booked a workshop fit with Dobinsons in Dandenong - highly recommend this, system they employ is great and service spectacular, workshop guys friendly knowledgeable and solution seeker/providers. The weighed the car on each corner first, took the measurements with the airbags inflated and deflated, then whilst the guys removed the coils they ran the numbers, and two coils came up, both XHD GU coils - they don't rate the GQ coils as a product line any more but GU are interchangeable.
The target was a 40mm lift over standard and use the BOSS triple airbags for level trim. The coil are 1mm dia thicker and 75mm higher thanthe ones removed. Coil number is C45-325T, 250-350kg constant rate coil. The originals were a 400kg variable rate coil, and they sagged within 9 months of installation. These ones sit the car slightly up at the rear, but does not look crazy. This is without the airbags inflated. Rides well, still top heavy so can get a bit of a wander on curves at speed. Happy with outcome.82798

[PeeBee]

Also bought one of these after the spring guys had trouble getting the rear end to drop down far enough for the longer springs.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Superior-Bent-Upper-Control-Arm-fits-Nissan-Patrol-GQ-GU-fits-long-Range-Tank/114168366041?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

[PeeBee]

Further update on under bonnet temps after a 30 minute run down the freeway. The under bonnet temps are sitting at 75deg when cruising and site at circa 80 deg C soak after 10 minutes stopping, which is all an improvement on the 95 to 100degC previously, however not quite at the 60 deg c earlier reported.

[mudski]

Phil did you fix the bonnet latch issue? I can’t seem to find the thread on it...


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[PeeBee]

Phil did you fix the bonnet latch issue? I can’t seem to find the thread on it...


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All good Mark, thanks for remembering! The channel that runs across the front of the radiator was bent 'inwards and canted the catch over towards the bullbar' - extreme description but you get the picture. I bought a new catch as well after destroying the original chasing avenues of craziness! Anyway the solution was leave the channel as it was and make a 6mm packer to slide under the lower edge of the bonnet catch bracket. Unbelievable it fitted and worked perfectly. Now the bonnet is so aligned I just have to push it shut not drop from 10".

The bonnet rear is lifted 10mm now and removed the rear rubber seal as well, so with the under bonnet bilge fans blowing over the headers and 'maybe' a little bit of flow thru the bonnet scoop, the temps have dropped 20 - 25 degC when moving and 15-20 when heat sinking at slow speed, so sort of worth the pain I guess, but wish it was straight forward.

[mudski]

That’s good mate. Glad too see it was sorted...


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[PeeBee]

Willwood Brakes, car up on hoist, all parts stripped, rears swapped out fine, fronts, wrong kit supplied. Who would have guessed? Parts coming over night hope it does not clog up the mechanics workshop too much. Unsure how stuff ups like this can be avoided. very frustrating.

[mudnut]

Willwood Brakes, car up on hoist, all parts stripped, rears swapped out fine, fronts, wrong kit supplied. Who would have guessed? Parts coming over night hope it does not clog up the mechanics workshop too much. Unsure how stuff ups like this can be avoided. very frustrating.

Buy local :)

[PeeBee]

Buy local :)

I'm in Melb, bought from Bendigo, how much more local can you get when they are the only agents in vic? Simply not paying attention when they put the kit together, sent out a GU kit instead of GQ.

[nissannewby]

Buy fit for purpose :)

Fixed.....

[Winnie]

You've had shit luck Phil, that's all there is to it. Fortunately I've never had the same problems as you when ordering online, perhaps my luck will run dry eventually!

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[PeeBee]

You've had shit luck Phil, that's all there is to it. Fortunately I've never had the same problems as you when ordering online, perhaps my luck will run dry eventually!

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Its funny Chris, I placed the order over the phone with them, but its a simple stuff up in the packing area I suspect. Anyway I hope this is the last piece of the puzzle, although maybe a cedar spa tub to rival MB honky bathtub might be the go now that I have the brakes to stop it.

Wife ordered some bathers on line - why, who knows, but anyway they arrived today 4 sizes too small, different to what she ordered and a short note saying they were out of stock in her size, so sent these in place of the right ones - now what hope have you got with that approach? Thats not a stuff up, thats simple incompetence - Oh sorry, its to do with Covid, like everything else thats gone tits up in the last 12 months.

[Plasnart]

Its funny Chris, I placed the order over the phone with them, but its a simple stuff up in the packing area I suspect. Anyway I hope this is the last piece of the puzzle, although maybe a cedar spa tub to rival MB honky bathtub might be the go now that I have the brakes to stop it.

Wife ordered some bathers on line - why, who knows, but anyway they arrived today 4 sizes too small, different to what she ordered and a short note saying they were out of stock in her size, so sent these in place of the right ones - now what hope have you got with that approach? Thats not a stuff up, thats simple incompetence - Oh sorry, its to do with Covid, like everything else thats gone tits up in the last 12 months.

Haha mate that reminds me of my recent paper delivery subscription. First day expecting a paper it never arrived. Second day expecting a paper it never arrived. Down to the local newsagent to ask where are my papers was told didn't know where your house was so delivered maybe next door. Next door I say? No not next door, think I threw it opposite side of street to you. Why I ask, you had my address? Didn't know where your house was. You're a grown man you can't read street numbers? No answer. Fair dinkum the days when kids were brought up with work ethic, I wasn't really happy about it but I got up before sparrows to treadly my way around town fog, ice, rain and hail to deliver the papers. Today's adults cannot comprehend a simple address. Now no fcuks are given. In this case the curry may have affected his mind poor fella.

[PeeBee]

Its gets worse! No parts arrived, and two of the same 'handed' rotors sent with the kit. Exchange rotor on the way also. What a total cluster. Nil communication from the distributor, but they sure are fast to return a call for a sale. Back to site Wed at 5am, hope the parts are installed by then.

[mudski]

Its gets worse! No parts arrived, and two of the same 'handed' rotors sent with the kit. Exchange rotor on the way also. What a total cluster. Nil communication from the distributor, but they sure are fast to return a call for a sale. Back to site Wed at 5am, hope the parts are installed by then.

Wow! That’s one stuff up.


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[MB]

Crikey Philstar, stop kicking black cats and walking under ladders Old Mate [emoji51][emoji23][emoji106][emoji106]


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[MB]

Life wasn’t meant to be easy, squeezy the boundaries always breaking new ground you are Legend [emoji41][emoji106][emoji106]


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[PeeBee]

Spoke with the storeman this morning - he took responsibility, simply picked the wrong parts - now wasn't that refreshing to have a person admit they screwed up. Anyway, parts in transit, should be done and dusted monday depending on workshop loading, probably tuesday.

[poindexter]

OK, got a question for all you Super Charged guys, (I'm looking at you Pee Bee)

What is the thread size at the rear of the manifold to plumb in a MAP sensor?
1/8th NPT,BSP? or is it metric M10x1.0
I'm not close enough to the beast to find out.

cheers

[PeeBee]

If this is the fitting where the oil pressure sender is fitted it is 1/8" bsp, 28TPI. I fitted a 1/8" bspT adapter into the port to take the oil pressure sensor and oil pressure gauge feeds from.

[poindexter]

If this is the fitting where the oil pressure sender is fitted it is 1/8" bsp, 28TPI. I fitted a 1/8" bspT adapter into the port to take the oil pressure sensor and oil pressure gauge feeds from.

Hi Pee Bee,

no the fitting at the rear on the manifold next to the super charger, for boost pressure measurement.

this is the fitting

83685

[PeeBee]

Hi Pee Bee,

no the fitting at the rear on the manifold next to the super charger, for boost pressure measurement.

Your manifold must be different to mine as I dont have a fitting for boost pressure take off. I had to tap a hole in the manifold myself, and simply use one of the inlet manifold 'legs' with a 1/8" BSPP tapped hole for my pressure sender. I have just checked this now and nothing there, and would have used it if it was. Sorry. Maybe ring/contact Bullet as they supplied the manifold? If you go from the back, into the chamber, be careful regards the i/c core in there.

[PeeBee]

I rang Bullet for you. The thread size is 1/8BSP

[PeeBee]

Guys, is this how a TD42 engine mount sits, meaning relative top and bottom plates? Looks like the keeper is out of alignment with the centre of the mount?84109

[mudski]

Yeah looks off centre to me mate.

[PeeBee]

Yeah looks off centre to me mate.

I don't even know how they can fit like that? Anyway have asked the question and will see what the feedback returns.

[PeeBee]

Tracked down the 'node' for the noisy interference on the HF radio. Its a bus bar with about 6 cables hanging off it. When i isolate the bus the noise plane drops to 1/5 instead of 5/5. Now just have to isolate the individual circuit. All the other electronic devices now fitted with snap breakers and despite them looking looking like the culprit, its something else - another goose to chase down, but getting closer, one step at a time.

[PeeBee]

Some time ago, like 600klm ago I suffered a mounting plate failure due to 2 bolts failing in tension on the 8 rib belt drive. I was assured by both Brunswick Diesel and Bullet performance this was unheard of. Well, it happened again, this time with 3 bolts failing in tension, loss of belt and boiled the motor - one dead head gasket, 30klm on north side of licola on way to a snow weekend. Flat deck towed home to Knox. Not happy. Once again, similar story from both these businesses, so I decided to first fix the bracket, which had a 2mm deflection in it, so new one purchased - no warranty as deemed my fault. Went thru 3 belts x $100 each just limping it back to the campsite, again, my cost.

So, 5 hours to get the 3 broken bolts out of the casting on the motor, 3 hours to re-tap the holes from M8 to M10, fitted ARP Chrome Moly bolts this time, drilled out the new mounting plate to suit. Increased the static idler spindle bolt from M10 to M12, drilled and tapped the plate accordingly. New spacers supplied as a set - again, my cost. Assembled everything, start car, and belt proceeded to run off, alignment issue - like, nothing has changed from what I can tell. Anyway, after a full day jinking around, threw the towel in and booked the vehicle into my local mechanic for repairs, head gaskets x 2, alignment of belt. Had to buy a gates rib belt laser alignment tool for this, so hope this is where the issue ends. mudski swiftly supplied another 2 Fleetguard belts for me, thank you Mark. Purchased a set of ARP head studs as well to beef up the assy, bloody expensive!

So should have it back by weeks end with luck. Bee stings getting me down a bit with this saga. Neighbour across the road almost had a sale of his 200 series when i got back home from the weekend.841158411684117

[Rossco]

Crickies Phil sounds like a bloody nightmare . . . Can't offer any advice but fingers crossed she stays reliable . .[emoji1696]

Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

[PeeBee]

Crickies Phil sounds like a bloody nightmare . . . Can't offer any advice but fingers crossed she stays reliable . .[emoji1696]

Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

Thanks Rossco, few other changes like new bearing sleeve for the bigger bolt, another $100, cut down the sleeve bolster head and changed the socket head cap screw to a button head and increased the strength from 8.8 to 10.9. This increases the clearance on the plastic Duramax fan blades, so up from 6mm to 20mm. Getting annoyed at the constant changes to optimise the installation. These kits are generic at best it seems - at least according to Bullet Performance its up to me to make the thing fit and work - total BS. The additional bracket in the third pic converts what was a cantilever static bearing to a rigid simply supported unit. The slot showing in the photo is now a fitted hole s the bracket and roller cannot climb upwards and track off, and still allows the belt to be fitted.

[PeeBee]

Yeah looks off centre to me mate.

Brunswick finally got back to me about the mount. yes, its splayed a bit 'but not as bad as they have seen in the past' - like how is that level of engineering comment to put a client at ease? - 'just loosen the 4 mount bolts and the centre bolt? and jack the motor up to let the mount move back into alignment' - I think this is another job for the mechanics since they have the car on the hoist - bloody astounding. ' "oh, and we are here to support you Phil, just ring if you need help'!!!

[PeeBee]

Yeah looks off centre to me mate.

Brunswick finally got back to me about the mount. yes, its splayed a bit 'but not as bad as they have seen in the past' - like how is that level of engineering comment to put a client at ease? - 'just loosen the 4 mount bolts and the centre bolt? and jack the motor up to let the mount move back into alignment' - I think this is another job for the mechanics since they have the car on the hoist - bloody astounding. ' "oh, and we are here to support you Phil, just ring if you need help'!!!

[mudski]

Brunswick finally got back to me about the mount. yes, its splayed a bit 'but not as bad as they have seen in the past' - like how is that level of engineering comment to put a client at ease? - 'just loosen the 4 mount bolts and the centre bolt? and jack the motor up to let the mount move back into alignment' - I think this is another job for the mechanics since they have the car on the hoist - bloody astounding. ' "oh, and we are here to support you Phil, just ring if you need help'!!!

Lol. Not as bad as they've seen it. Wow.

[PeeBee]

Head gaskets blown on both banks, no 4 and 5 cylinders, 8 bent pushrods. Brunswick swap the head over on brand new turbo motors to change the inlet manifold port alignment, or so they say, so they are the ones who jinked with the head gaskets to begin with, not happy.

[MudRunnerTD]

Head gaskets blown on both banks, no 4 and 5 cylinders, 8 bent pushrods. Brunswick swap the head over on brand new turbo motors to change the inlet manifold port alignment, or so they say, so they are the ones who jinked with the head gaskets to begin with, not happy.

Damn it Phil!! Whats bloody going on here mate!!! Have you spoken to these clowns about 2 blown head gaskets and 8 Bent Rods!! Like WTAF!! I reckon you have done well more than your fair bloody share here mate.

[PeeBee]

Damn it Phil!! Whats bloody going on here mate!!! Have you spoken to these clowns about 2 blown head gaskets and 8 Bent Rods!! Like WTAF!! I reckon you have done well more than your fair bloody share here mate.

Blame game zone Darren. They have tried to shift blame onto my swapping out the timing chain for gears, then the key in the camshaft has failed and you need to strip the front of the engine down to repair it. I will put my trust in professional engine rebuilders and competent mechanics any day above these guys. Really disappointed but what do you do? Keep hearing 'we are here to help', but really, wish you had not put a finger on this motor. I don't expect any support as the motor is out of time warranty, being 3 yrs, despite having only done 10,600klm. I will call them tomorrow and raise some concerns but it won't go anywhere. What would not surprise me is that they reuse the 'torque to yield' head bolts that are originally fitted to the motor after they swap the heads over to suit the n/a manifold. Would not surprise me one bit.

[nissannewby]

Are the 8 bent push rods all of one cycle? Like all the exhaust or all of the inlet or just one of the banks complet 8 push rods is bent?

[PeeBee]

Are the 8 bent push rods all of one cycle? Like all the exhaust or all of the inlet or just one of the banks complete 8 push rods is bent?

Matt, the two worst are on the exhaust valves of 4 and 5, followed by minor bends mostly on the drivers side bank. i cant be too specific due to not taking enough attention as the bits were extracted. There was only the exhaust valve pushrod on the pass side cylinder which is either 4 or 5, the rest appeared ok to the eye/roll across the table top.841278412884129

[mudnut]

That sucks, Phil. a lot of hard work and dough wasted. I really hope they help you out after all you've been through.

[MudRunnerTD]

Matt, the two worst are on the exhaust valves of 4 and 5, followed by minor bends mostly on the drivers side bank. i cant be too specific due to not taking enough attention as the bits were extracted. There was only the exhaust valve pushrod on the pass side cylinder which is either 4 or 5, the rest appeared ok to the eye/roll across the table top.841278412884129

At least they are not REALLY REALLY Bent!!! Damn mate!! That is Ka-Far-Ked

[PeeBee]

That sucks, Phil. a lot of hard work and dough wasted. I really hope they help you out after all you've been through.

Simply should not be the journey .This has been a nightmare from start to now, and its continuing.