My Temp

[totallylost]

hello all and first let me say thank you in advance for any help that can be given. Now i have a 1988 GQ turbo 4.2. I yanked out the engine and had that baby fully rebuilt from the ground up. Then while that was being done i brought a 3 core radiator with twin thermal fans ready to keep this baby cool. Had the gearbox checked and chucked a heavy duty clutch in while at it. So now i have one slight problem my temp sits just shy of the im bloody going to pop my lid in a min if i go any higher but its not boiling. Now if i go by what is called within normal range it is fine but before i has the engine rebuilt i never went over the half way mark no mater what i was doing. I have checked everything that one can check on there own and i ended up gutting my thermostat to bring the temp down which it did but still over the half way mark and thats sitting at 100kms not towing, Now i am thinking that maybe i should slap a scoop on the bonnet to help but i didnt have this problem before the engine was rebuilt. I am only trying to solve this problem myself cause them money i have saved for my baby is for air suspension seats for her and not for some clown to say og well try this and well try that. If it not boiling should i be worried ?.

[Ben-e-boy]

Get rid of the thermo fans. Not once have I heard of anyone having success with thermos on a TD.

[AB]

Definitely try the above first as that’s an easy test costing nothing.

If still a problem have a look at the ufi fan hub. I’ve had issues for years when only towing and just put an oem radiator in and ufi fan and it’s unbelievably perfect!


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[totallylost]

thank you will get on to it tomorrow morning

[Ben-e-boy]

Make sure you have all of the radiator shroud, including the little removable bit at the bottom of the shroud

[0-TJ-0]

Definitely try the above first as that’s an easy test costing nothing.

If still a problem have a look at the ufi fan hub. I’ve had issues for years when only towing and just put an oem radiator in and ufi fan and it’s unbelievably perfect!


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Still running standard blades Andy or are they part of the swap?

[AB]

Still running standard blades Andy or are they part of the swap?

Nah they are different are different blades mate.


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[the evil twin]

Did you burp the rad to get out any air locks?

Did you take the mech fan off?
If so do you have the bits to refit it?

Are the elec fans set up as push or pull?
Are the elec fans constantly running?

Is it def running that hot or is it possibly a temp sender issue?

[MB]

As ET kindly suggests above mate, best installing an aftermarket real numbers temp gauge, IMHO even a cheapo copper wire jobbie would suffice for some clarity on Centigrade true and go from there/here [emoji106]



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[mudski]

^^^^^What he said. Get a gauge in there to tell you what the temps are really doing first.

[mudnut]

I know that running an upper-cylinder lubricant on a newly rebuilt petrol engine helps lower the running temps significantly. Don't know if it helps a diesel though.

[totallylost]

just like to say a big thankyou to all who have help got rid of the thermal fans and went back to the original radiator and now the temp is perfect. Shame i couldnt use the 4 core radiator as i couldnt fit the original bits back on with it so went back to the original but at least the problem is solved so thank you to all

[0-TJ-0]

just like to say a big thankyou to all who have help got rid of the thermal fans and went back to the original radiator and now the temp is perfect. Shame i couldnt use the 4 core radiator as i couldnt fit the original bits back on with it so went back to the original but at least the problem is solved so thank you to all

People seem to have good results with the oem radiator anyway mate. Glad you got it sorted.

[totallylost]

Thankyou im glad i got it sorted thanks to people on here ive spent so much money on rebuilding the diesel engine in it i just dont want to stuff it up but now i can relax and go out and enjoy some off road time

[Gutsquisher Media]

This is a cut and paste from a discussion that I had with another forum. It does answer some of the questions raised here



Quote:
Originally Posted by gqshortynt
My thinking, and feel free to correct me if im wrong. But after reading through leethal's post i can agree. These bigger radiators with more cores, or thicker radiators seem to have a higher density of fins. Therefore as you go thicker you require more air pressure, and a bigger fan to equalize the cooling affect. More cores = more heat but more heat and more fins for the additional cores required more airflow to dissipate that heat. My current radiator is 3 core and 56mm.. So therefore going for a thinner less dense radiator, yes it cools a lower volume of coolant at any given time but its going so more efficiently.

Also on another note exactly how far have people gone sealing around the radiators including in the grill? Im thinking of putting some foam or something similar in between the front panel and the grill either side of the radiator/condensor like whats found in modern vehicles to help channel air. anyone done this? I would love to see some photos or ideas. Cheers!

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In the first part you are correct, it take more air pressure to pass through a 3 core compared to a 2 core radiator. So you do need to make sure that you have a good flow of air. This means the radiators rubbers are in place and you have no massive obstructions in front of the grill.

The benefits of a 3 core radiator are more surface area (more tubes for the water to pass through), but this is only good if you have the air passing through the radiator and not spilling out from around the radiator because the rubbers have been removed or the air been pushed aside because of those Big Bull lights commonly fitted to 4X4.

As part of my testing I used a Anemometer to find out where I was losing air from the front of my Troll. Fitted a fixed fan set RPM at 1500 and measured at all points of the front of Grill.

Found without the rubbers on top as shown in pics from before more air was been drawn through those gaps than through the front of radiator, this may sound good but it's "not" when the bonnet is closed this is covered air is drawn in from the engine bay when stopped and air is spilled out through these gaps when moving. Air like water will flow in the direction of least resistance.

Measured without rubbers 3.2 m/s with rubbers in place 4.2 m/s a fair drop in air speed, and for ****s and giggles I took off the shroud 2.5 m/s a shroud is there for a purpose cooling 101 https://www.flex-a-lite.com/blog/the...roud-position/

Hope this can shed a bit of light onto the subject..

P.S

If your interested here is a link to the full forum post https://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-55/tead42-yes-i-searched-403867/