New radiator

[0-TJ-0]

Was putting some more bits back on the old girl tonight and noticed a drip on the driveway.. the top tank of the radiator is either cracked or coming away from the core.

There's plenty of info around but it's all over the place. I'm keen for some realtime feedback on what radiator they're currently running and what they think of it.

I'm leaning towards just replacing it with the an oem jobbie but they're wanting over $1000 for one of them.

Also has anyone gone the way of having their standard one repaired and if so, how's it going?

[altech]

hi, I went Aluminium from ebay and works great, just got to make sure it's the right one for your patrol regards Alex = below is just a sample of what i purchased, not the seller. mine was 3 year ago.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-Row-Radiator-For-Nissan-GU-PATROL-Y61-PETROL-4-5L-1997-1998-1999-2000-2001/112878151469?epid=12020293778&hash=item1a480fe72d:g:d8kAAOSwJ9dcGfMR:rk:10:pf:0

[0-TJ-0]

hi, I went Aluminium from ebay and works great, just got to make sure it's the right one for your patrol regards Alex = below is just a sample of what i purchased, not the seller. mine was 3 year ago.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-Row-Radiator-For-Nissan-GU-PATROL-Y61-PETROL-4-5L-1997-1998-1999-2000-2001/112878151469?epid=12020293778&hash=item1a480fe72d:g:d8kAAOSwJ9dcGfMR:rk:10:pf:0

Thanks mate. Had a bit of a look at the evilbay ones but didn't want to end up with something crappy. Might have a bit deeper look if you've had good luck with one.

[MB]

We’ve had great success with OEM radiators mate on GQ’s & GU’s although they are getting a little exy these days as you’ve mentioned.
Unfortunately though the aluminium aftermarket ones we’ve trialled do not handle our corrugated home roads and adventures out there very well we’ve found.
I guess it does depend on usage and budget but on a positive note we’ve only just replaced on a family GU wagon after 17 years an OEM from Patrolapart at under $700 IIRC. Per annum $41 seems pretty fair to me in the long run [emoji106][emoji106]


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[0-TJ-0]

We’ve had great success with OEM radiators mate on GQ’s & GU’s although they are getting a little exy these days as you’ve mentioned.
Unfortunately though the aluminium aftermarket ones we’ve trialled do not handle our corrugated home roads and adventures out there very well we’ve found.
I guess it does depend on usage and budget but on a positive note we’ve only just replaced on a family GU wagon after 17 years an OEM from Patrolapart at under $700 IIRC. Per annum $41 seems pretty fair to me in the long run [emoji106][emoji106]


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Yeah thanks mate. That was the first place I checked. I'll have another look but they had all the wider versions up for about $700 but the bloody Ti one was over 1k. I did spend some time looking at the ally ones last night and the tiny mounting tabs look like they're just welded on to the side of the core. That'd last about 2 seconds on some of the roads I've been down.

Adrad do a very similar thing to oem for a more reasonable price. Anyone running or had one of these?

[MB]

You might be on the money there mate!
I do seem to remember mudski talking of a company that used OEM cores or something similar from same manufacturing plant I thought once read here somewhere.
EDIT: Double check warranties given either way you go too mate!


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[PeeBee]

I am waiting for an ADRAD custom Aluminium radiator to arrive. This is for my Chev Optimiser Supercharger installation. ADRAD have a total design and engineering process for their radiators and actually flow test and airflow test the designs before they go to market. They build what works, not necessarily what you think might be best - which is a very confident position to be taking I reckon.

This is going to be my first aluminium radiator as prior to this I was a firm believer in Copper/brass. If you go the aluminium route you need to focus on electrolysis and galvanic corrosion. The radiator needs to be an isolated element and free from stray currents or it will corrode very quickly. Using a good quality coolant with anti freeze and lubricants, changed regularly, I am told a conservative approach is every 20,000klm if using Glycol bases, should keep the corrosion in check. Ensure the coolant concentration remains at the 50% recommended level. Also, ensure there is no current path thru the radiator, so the rubber mounts need to be in good condition. Dont link an earth strap for example between the radiator and block or use the radiator as an earthing point.

I have done a deep dive into the coolant/corrosion situation and settled on this product. I spoke with the scientist who formulated it and he provided me with a lot of data to demonstrate its value. Its not cheap, however it is a quarter of the price of the Evans Waterless Coolant system, and because its a water soluble oil mix, it can be topped up with water without ever losing the 50% concentration as the water is what evaporates, not the soluble oil.

I don't have any experience with Aluminium radiators as stated, and have also heard all the tales of shortcomings of these from cracking, fatigue, corrosion and difficulties to repair. I am holding my breath hoping this selection will deliver the goods in the long run, however I know the radiator will provide the cooling capacity I need by speaking with a guy in WA who has the identical setup.

Bit long winded - most of my posts are, as theres a bit to the puzzle usually. Lastly, going with ADRAD I know the radiator can be repaired down the track with their system as they hold build data on every radiator they make. The radiator is made from custom extrusions and using 3 different grades of aluminium across the assy. Mine cost $1800, so it better work! Here is the link to the coolant I will be using also, worth a look at i reckon. It was originally developed to target the ultra expensive vintage/classic car domain where vehicles had alloy engine blocks or radiators and they are too small for the HP, hence overheat very easily. The ph of this material is around 9.5 and you need a pH within the range of 7.5 to 8 at least for effective corrosion control between aluminium and cast iron. The viscosity is very very close to water which aids in both heat transfer and flow, and it is an electrical insulator by nature, so current paths are eliminated. All this guff is on their website including validation and it confirms in every aspect to the relevent Aust Standard, unlike most others. Operating range in the region of -10 - +125C, not as high as Evans at 190C however its heat transfer capacity is far better than any Glycol or Evans coolant system. Worth a look.


https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Liquid-Intelligence-600-Vintage-Veteran-Super-Soluble-Oil-Radiator-Coolant-15L/183651175697

[MB]

Looks like ‘Natrad’ are stockists of ‘Adrad’ and also ‘Koyorad’ of which the later I believe mudski may have been talking about for OE replacement.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/02/148.jpg

http://www.koyorad.com/




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[PeeBee]

I don't understand why radiators are made using plastic end/top/bottom tanks? The factory original for the 2.8T was plastic and the failure point.

[MB]

As mentioned mate, 17 years out of a GU 2001 TD42T OEM plastic tank jobbie and was still strong, just a bit dirty internally and not as efficient.
My experiences with aluminium tanks has been cracking on the welds and folds unfortunately from the sharp rough corrugated stuff.


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[PeeBee]

As mentioned mate, 17 years out of a GU 2001 TD42T OEM plastic tank jobbie and was still strong, just a bit dirty internally and not as efficient.
My experiences with aluminium tanks has been cracking on the welds and folds unfortunately from the sharp rough corrugated stuff.


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Yeah I know, just need to see if this series of failures will eventuate in the short term or not. 17 years is nothing to complain about for sure.

[0-TJ-0]

Thanks heaps for your feedback fellas. Day on the river today to forget the patrol is sitting like a brick in the driveway.. again.

I'll have a good read through and process the info this arvo

[0-TJ-0]

I've had a good think about it and I reckon I'll give the adrad oem look-a-like a go. I assume the one that was in it has been there since new ('03). It's done it's time and I've never had any overheating issues except when it was full of mud.

I'd go full oem if it were a little cheaper. Instead with the money I save I reckon I'll look at puttting a new top and bottom hose in for a bit more piece of mind.

[0-TJ-0]

And thanks PeeBee for the info! Looks like you're going to have a ripper setup!

[PeeBee]

And thanks PeeBee for the info! Looks like you're going to have a ripper setup!

Yep, it better deliver on my expectations, thats all I can say!!

[mudski]

Looks like ‘Natrad’ are stockists of ‘Adrad’ and also ‘Koyorad’ of which the later I believe mudski may have been talking about for OE replacement.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/02/148.jpg

http://www.koyorad.com/




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Yeah Koyorad is what I got. Cooldrive sell them. Bloody good radiator.


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[Hodge]

Yeah Koyorad is what I got. Cooldrive sell them. Bloody good radiator.


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Do you think Koyorad and the Koyo are the same brand. Patrolapart stock "Koyo" brand rads too...

Example:
https://patrolapart.com.au/product/nissan-patrol-gq-y60-td42-manual-mt-koyo-aluminium-plastic

[0-TJ-0]

I'm picking the adrad one up tomorrow. I'll chuck a couple pictures up side by side with the old one and people can judge for themselves.

I can't really see it having too many issues, if the core design is the same as OEM really the only thing that could let it down is choice of material for the end tanks. Time will tell I guess.

[PeeBee]

There are a couple of tests regards stray current detection - do a google search, pretty simple. You dont want this thing falling apart in 12 months time. I understand the genuine nissan coolant is very effective as well, however others swear by different brands

[0-TJ-0]

After they orded the wrong one in yesterday got the new rad today. Bit of an annoying run around because I was very specific when I ordered it and they still managed to order the gq/wide type in.

Looks like pretty decent build quality out of the box. Couple of the fins look a bit average in the pics but if you look at it dead straight on they're not actually that bad. It all looks and feels pretty strong, I guess only time will tell but I'm confident I'll get a good run out of it.

78017

78018

78019

[PeeBee]

Funny you say that about stuffing up. I rang BD yesterday to enquire about the shipping date and they advised ADRAD had stuffed up the location of the bottom port on the radiator, so they had to modify it . They are shipping my gear by the end of the week. I will have a close look to see if the workmanship matches the recommendations I received.

[0-TJ-0]

Yeah mate keep us updated. I'd be interested to see your setup. Hopefully they sort it out without any issues for you.

[mudski]

Do you think Koyorad and the Koyo are the same brand. Patrolapart stock "Koyo" brand rads too...

Example:
https://patrolapart.com.au/product/nissan-patrol-gq-y60-td42-manual-mt-koyo-aluminium-plastic

Exactly. They must be getting them from Cooldrive as the the Cooldrive symbol is watermarked in the Patrolapart picture. Lol

[0-TJ-0]

Thought I'd follow up on this.

Did a run from Adelaide to Coober Pedy a week or so ago in pretty much the worst possible weather for a road trip.

Between Port Augusta and Coober on the way up ambient temps were in the high 30's low 40's and windy as buggery. Had a double swag on the roof rack and about a medium to heavy load worth of gear on board.

Water temps sat around 90deg pretty well the whole way execpt for the last 100km or so where it slowly climbed to sit at about 100deg. I think everything by this point was getting a bit heat soaked plus we were well into the 40s ambient temps.

Had the cruise set to 110kmh the whole way and didn't do it any favours. Really wanted to just drive it and see how it went.

Was pretty happy with this but my thoughts are it will probably struggle a bit with a trailer. I reckon slowing up a touch and taking one set of my driving lights off to free up some airflow would sort it out.

Anyway, pretty happy with the replacement radiator for cooling and if it lasts half as long as a genuine OEM it will probably outlast how long i keep it for. Thumbs up from me.