Modified GQ Bonnet

[PeeBee]

I have 2 options with the fitting of the supercharger to my GQ - one is to do a 25mm body lift or have a bonnet modified to provide the 25mm additional clearance from the nose of the bonnet back thru the central region of the bonnet. I have made contact with Blitz in QLD, however this is an outside shot as they want quantities rather than 1 offs. Does anyone have a contact in Melb who can do this sort of work or supply a bonnet/modify mine? I am going to speak with the VASS engineer tomorrow to resolve if i can do the body lift and get it certified and what further testing is required - probably lane swerve maybe?

I am thinking if I can get something like this, slide it forward to the edge of the bonnet, then get it the full width of the raised section , maybe with the front closed in, I will be off the hook on the body raise.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/254052456258

[MudRunnerTD]

Your Engineer will have to sign off the BL or the Bonnet. Do you need a scoop or just a hump? Surely a boat builder or Fibreglass man will sort out that easy enough? Discuss with your engineer how much of the factory bracing you can remove before going the chop.

[PeeBee]

Your Engineer will have to sign off the BL or the Bonnet. Do you need a scoop or just a hump? Surely a boat builder or Fibreglass man will sort out that easy enough? Discuss with your engineer how much of the factory bracing you can remove before going the chop.

Yes I thought that as well. I am going to speak about it with him tomorrow and find out which is the least painful. I have found a guy who makes scoops but I want more of a bubble with the front edge of the bonnet raised say 30 - 40mm and then taper to zero at the windscreen, but only on the raised centre hump of the bonnet, not the sides. i have asked the same question of Brunswick Diesels as they have supposedly done this before, but detail is non existent as usual with these guys.

I think its going to be line ball if my ARB side rails still fit if i go the body lift - very close to the factory flares.

[Bidja]

I would prefer to modify the bonnet as well. Just concerned you may loose bonnet structural integrity if cutting out the fwd strengthening ribs. Need to weld in or attach perimeter strengthening frame, especially if use fiberglass scoop.

I had bonnet modified for Jonny Tig scoop, some structural ribs at rear were removed but is OK, not sure of your GQ bonnet structure (looks similar), but up front in GU you would need to remove a far bit of rib strength.

Not sure how far you want to travel, but Jon from Jonny Tig Industries (Adelaide) does very good TIG weld fabrication work and does a larger scoop (higher) for GQ and GU patrol for his cooler. Does custom work, I spent a few days with him last Sep working on my cooler install. Let me know if you choose to check it out Phil.

https://www.jonnytig.com/

[Bidja]

Too slow in posting Phil, you guys are onto it.

[MB]

Sharp Tomahawk and an SLR bolt on, piece of piss old mate!


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[Winnie]

I do know a good fibreglasser / boat repairer who could help you Phil but he is down this way in Boolarra. Let me know if you want his number.

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[PeeBee]

I would prefer to modify the bonnet as well. Just concerned you may loose bonnet structural integrity if cutting out the fwd strengthening ribs. Need to weld in or attach perimeter strengthening frame, especially if use fiberglass scoop.

I had bonnet modified for Jonny Tig scoop, some structural ribs at rear were removed but is OK, not sure of your GQ bonnet structure (looks similar), but up front in GU you would need to remove a far bit of rib strength.

Not sure how far you want to travel, but Jon from Jonny Tig Industries (Adelaide) does very good TIG weld fabrication work and does a larger scoop (higher) for GQ and GU patrol for his cooler. Does custom work, I spent a few days with him last Sep working on my cooler install. Let me know if you choose to check it out Phil.

https://www.jonnytig.com/

Thanks for that, had a quick look at their site, pretty flash gear for sure. Getting across to Adelaide might be the problem with the truck if the bonnet won't close! But I will need to make a decision this week as the parts are starting to be assembled in WA.

[PeeBee]

Sharp Tomahawk and an SLR bolt on, piece of piss old mate!


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I reckon an SLR scoop might just be what i dont want MB! It needs to clear at the leading edge of the bonnet by around 30mm then can taper off from there. I will see what the VASS engineer has to say tomorrow.

[Bidja]

He would sell you a scoop by its self. Did all the early design work and welder at Cross Country early days.

[PeeBee]

I do know a good fibreglasser / boat repairer who could help you Phil but he is down this way in Boolarra. Let me know if you want his number.

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Thanks Chris, will let you know. I need to find out what i can do first then take that path. really dont want the body lift, but have the bits in hand to do it anyway.

[PeeBee]

He would sell you a scoop by its self. Did all the early design work and welder at Cross Country early days.

That sounds interesting for sure. I reckon I only have two small spots where its going to be close, on centreline of bonnet and 75mm back from bonnet fold and then on passenger side where a/c sits, I have attached a couple of photos of an installation done already. What is deceiving is the fan co774767747777478wl is not standard so it all looks lie it will fit, but thats where the trap is. The bit that confuses me is the oil filler cap is higher than the snout, yet the claim is it will touch the bonnet, plus interference with the a/c on passenger side - looks low to me.

[Bidja]

My scoop is: width 670mm x depth 520mm with a front horizontal lip(running back) from front face of scoop of 190mm (but could be reduced if needed). Front Ht 60mm/ Rear Ht 25mm. Bonnet hole/opening width 600mm x depth 300mm.

Recon GQ/GU be the same build.
He was working (in September) with a fiberglass guy and had a prototype of a higher profile. For the younger guys wanting to look like going faster.

He may have a damaged one that you may be able to check out (I could ask). The fasteners are threaded rod molded into the glass scoop.

Have a look at his GQ scoops:

https://www.jonnytig.com/nissan

[PeeBee]

My scoop is: width 670mm x depth 520mm with a front horizontal lip(running back) from front face of scoop of 190mm (but could be reduced if needed). Front Ht 60mm/ Rear Ht 25mm. Bonnet hole/opening width 600mm x depth 300mm.

Recon GQ/GU be the same build.
He was working (in September) with a fiberglass guy and had a prototype of a higher profile. For the younger guys wanting to look like going faster.

He may have a damaged one that you may be able to check out (I could ask). The fasteners are threaded rod molded into the glass scoop.

Have a look at his GQ scoops:

https://www.jonnytig.com/nissan

Thanks for the offer. I will see what direction the conversation takes with the VASS engineer tomorrow then make a call. I am not worried about stability with another 25mm, because the greatest mass is locked to the chassis and below it, its more the cosmetic with the bar work and if i end up with a list of 'adjustments to attend to as well. As you know, putting spacers into bar work to extend them never comes out looking 100%, regardless of who does it, plus the rails would then need to be powder coated again.

[MudRunnerTD]

You need to graft a BA XR8 bonnet bulge to the middle of a GQ bonnet. Id have thought that was fairly straight forward to be honest.

[PeeBee]

You need to graft a BA XR8 bonnet bulge to the middle of a GQ bonnet. Id have thought that was fairly straight forward to be honest.

The area I need raised is about 3" from the front edge of the bonnet for maybe 6" max, so this is a lot of bulge to not make the whole thing look stupid. Grafting any sort of bulge is not going to be hard, finding one that does not look out of sorts is the challenge. Will see what the engineer says first, but thanks for the comment.

Just had a look at the xr8 bulge shape and its not what I need unfortunately, almost the reverse.

[MudRunnerTD]

Here is one on ebay Phil

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BA-BF-Bulge-Bonnet-Scoop-hump-Boss-XR8-XR6-3-Higher-Custom-Fibreglass/142321702915?hash=item212308d803:g:8UUAAOSw5UZY~c6 e

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/01/145.jpg

Truck scoop to be grafted

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/01/146.jpg

Or this.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/01/147.jpg

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[PeeBee]

OK, they look good but they are too shallow towards the front edge of the bonnet. I need 25mm high clearance , 75mm from the front edge of the bonnet. The XR* is basically flat at that point, plus it flares the wrong way as well. I have to cater for the a/c pump that sits on the passenger side - have a quick lookat the images I posted earlier in the thread. I don't have any need for the high riser back of the scoop, but might just have to live with something like this. I would like the front to be higher and taper to zero at the windscreen, unsure what this going to look like so am going to mock one up tomorrow and will psot it up for review/comments. thanks Darren

[MudRunnerTD]

I assumed you would fit it Backwards actually. 25mm is almost nothing. By the time you cut the structure out of theb bonnet you will have the 25mm. The top link form woyld allow you then to shape it however you want. Fibreglass is cheap once the initial form is established. Grafting that hump to the front of the bonnet then using glass to get your desired external profile woyld be the easieat outcome id have thought. Something you cohld easily do cheap at home with a second bonnet. If you dont luke it have another go or get a pro to do it but for a few $100 id probably have a go.

[MudRunnerTD]

This would work great too mate, if you dont want the scoop just fill it in.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BRAND-NEW-CUSTOM-ADD-ON-BONNET-SCOOP-FOR-NISSAN-PATROL-GU-SERIES-1997-2012/253124986145?_trkparms=aid%3D777003%26algo%3DDISCL .MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D52547%26meid%3D2cd5f4ca2bb04 11f902a226ad5730ff0%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D1%26rkt% 3D10%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D254052456258%26itm%3D2531 24986145&_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982

[PeeBee]

This would work great too mate, if you dont want the scoop just fill it in.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BRAND-NEW-CUSTOM-ADD-ON-BONNET-SCOOP-FOR-NISSAN-PATROL-GU-SERIES-1997-2012/253124986145?_trkparms=aid%3D777003%26algo%3DDISCL .MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D52547%26meid%3D2cd5f4ca2bb04 11f902a226ad5730ff0%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D1%26rkt% 3D10%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D254052456258%26itm%3D2531 24986145&_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982

Thanks darren, just got off the phone with the VASS engineer and he is happy either way, body lift or bonnet scoop as long as 1) total lift rule of 3" lift for vehicle is not exceeded, or 2) the scoop is not more than 80mm higher than the bonnet. So, just need to procrastinate a bit longer and then pull the trigger, one way or the other. The greatest issue I have is not knowing how much of te 25mm clearance claim is real or a myth - could be 10mm, could be 15mm - important to know when you are doing stuff like this. Also, there are no definitive dimensions for how wide the and exactly where the interference zones are - just simply hard to get to the bottom of. The guy I am using in WA as the basis for this build did the body lift before the s/c installation so he could run larger diameter tyres, so his validation is not that sound either as the s/c installation fitted by default but does not prove its entirely necessary - very frustrating. I have the mounts here already so might just go ahead and do then unless i hear back today from a bonnet fabricator with a solution with 100% certainty. Thanks for the photos as well, the last one again would take some massaging and yes I would get it done by a fibreglasser for sure - its not my skillset.

[Bidja]

2" lift + 33s You are at 3"

Scoop or the like may be the way to go

[Bidja]

My scoop dimension provided earlier. Face opening to the rear, keep crap out of eng bay and help to keep under bonnet cooler.

[MudRunnerTD]

Thanks darren, just got off the phone with the VASS engineer and he is happy either way, body lift or bonnet scoop as long as 1) total lift rule of 3" lift for vehicle is not exceeded, or 2) the scoop is not more than 80mm higher than the bonnet. So, just need to procrastinate a bit longer and then pull the trigger, one way or the other. The greatest issue I have is not knowing how much of te 25mm clearance claim is real or a myth - could be 10mm, could be 15mm - important to know when you are doing stuff like this. Also, there are no definitive dimensions for how wide the and exactly where the interference zones are - just simply hard to get to the bottom of. The guy I am using in WA as the basis for this build did the body lift before the s/c installation so he could run larger diameter tyres, so his validation is not that sound either as the s/c installation fitted by default but does not prove its entirely necessary - very frustrating. I have the mounts here already so might just go ahead and do then unless i hear back today from a bonnet fabricator with a solution with 100% certainty. Thanks for the photos as well, the last one again would take some massaging and yes I would get it done by a fibreglasser for sure - its not my skillset.

Yeah i thin the Bonnet is a better way to go to be honest. if you are trying to stay with the total of 3" lift then as Bidja says your already there with your 2" spring and 1" tyre lift. 2" spring is always better than 1" spring and 1" body lift IMO.

[PeeBee]

Thanks Guys, the VASS engineer is going to sign off on the 1" body lift. I could do the scoop as long at its not higher than 80mm above the bonnet. Speaking with Brunswick Diesels again this morning they simply cannot give any guidance as to where specifically the clash points are - story keeps changing, vague, but they know the body lift fixes everything with the clearance so i am backed into a corner. I have started on removal of the body lift bolts, both sides done except pass side rear corner that appears to be spinning a nut in its retainer, and the two fronts remain for tomorrow to remove then start the reassembly.

[PeeBee]

My scoop dimension provided earlier. Face opening to the rear, keep crap out of eng bay and help to keep under bonnet cooler.

Based on the photos I have of a completed installation, this scoop is still too narrow to give me clearance across the front of the engine, so appreciate all the input but does not help me unfortunately.

[Bidja]

Glad I was able to help out in some way.

Would not like to cut a hole much bigger in my bonnet, it is a pity they are so vague in providing positional dimensions. Sounds like it cuts a very fine line between go / no go. Good luck.

[PeeBee]

Glad I was able to help out in some way.

Would not like to cut a hole much bigger in my bonnet, it is a pity they are so vague in providing positional dimensions. Sounds like it cuts a very fine line between go / no go. Good luck.

Yep, dealing with these guys is like juggling hot sand at times! One of their mechanics told me they have done fibreglass bonnet scoops and complete bonnets ex WA, but the owner can't or wont disclose who dd it, so bit disappointing as the scoop would have been neater and less problematic as you guys have mentioned.

[MudRunnerTD]

Thanks Guys, the VASS engineer is going to sign off on the 1" body lift. I could do the scoop as long at its not higher than 80mm above the bonnet. Speaking with Brunswick Diesels again this morning they simply cannot give any guidance as to where specifically the clash points are - story keeps changing, vague, but they know the body lift fixes everything with the clearance so i am backed into a corner. I have started on removal of the body lift bolts, both sides done except pass side rear corner that appears to be spinning a nut in its retainer, and the two fronts remain for tomorrow to remove then start the reassembly.

Has the VASS Engineer assumed you have a 2" lift only? I am assuming you have 2" lift and 33s making a total of 3" lift already giving you no allowance for the body lift?

If the above is correct you could get the charger on with a 25mm BL running 31s for Engineering then deal with the bonnet once its all done. Remove the BL and do the bonnet then and stay legal.

[Bidja]

Yep, dealing with these guys is like juggling hot sand at times! One of their mechanics told me they have done fibreglass bonnet scoops and complete bonnets ex WA, but the owner can't or wont disclose who dd it, so bit disappointing as the scoop would have been neater and less problematic as you guys have mentioned.

Wonder if they would give you a rolled up plan cut out template or some clearance plan x-y axis dimensions.

Easy to cut out bonnet skin from top and ribs from underneath with 1mm thick cutting wheel with angle grinder.

Just a thought.

Off to work in the vegie patch.
John

[MudRunnerTD]

Thanks Guys, the VASS engineer is going to sign off on the 1" body lift. I could do the scoop as long at its not higher than 80mm above the bonnet. Speaking with Brunswick Diesels again this morning they simply cannot give any guidance as to where specifically the clash points are - story keeps changing, vague, but they know the body lift fixes everything with the clearance so i am backed into a corner. I have started on removal of the body lift bolts, both sides done except pass side rear corner that appears to be spinning a nut in its retainer, and the two fronts remain for tomorrow to remove then start the reassembly.

A piece of 25mm square tube down that hole will hold that nut from memory.

[PeeBee]

Has the VASS Engineer assumed you have a 2" lift only? I am assuming you have 2" lift and 33s making a total of 3" lift already giving you no allowance for the body lift?

If the above is correct you could get the charger on with a 25mm BL running 31s for Engineering then deal with the bonnet once its all done. Remove the BL and do the bonnet then and stay legal.

You are 100% onto it Darren, thats the plan. It then gives me time to resolve exactly what the interference areas are and then get the best bonnet outcome.

[PeeBee]

A piece of 25mm square tube down that hole will hold that nut from memory.

Thanks, there is already a light sheetmetal retainer over the nut. i am going to take your advice from previous and open the hole up a bit so i can get to the nut retainer. I may be able t smash the retainer off and simply put the rattle gun it like the others.

Now regards lifting the body itself, how many jacks, where are they placed?

[PeeBee]

Wonder if they would give you a rolled up plan cut out template or some clearance plan x-y axis dimensions.

Easy to cut out bonnet skin from top and ribs from underneath with 1mm thick cutting wheel with angle grinder.

Just a thought.

Off to work in the vegie patch.
John

Neither Bullet cars or BD are of much help in the details. They have done a few s/c installations but its not their core business, so they don't pay much attention or document much it seems.

[Winnie]

One jack and a long piece of wood. Pretty sure we did that 2 or 3 times on either side. That's what I did when I removed my body lift.

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[PeeBee]

OK, 25mm body lift in, took 5 hours start to finish. Not difficult, just need to think it thru. ARB side rails are sitting on the factory flares but does not look out of place. Drivers passenger door feels tight to close, probably a bit of distortion going on from the jack, not a problem, just a note. The hardest ones to replace were the two rear mounts and the trickiest were the two front mounts due to congestion between radiator and grill. I used two bottle jacks and a block of wood. I blew up my rattle gun yesterday, so things started out a bit tiresome until I converted the battery drill with some modified tools to act like a rattle gun, then away it all sailed. I still need to cut a small section out of the floor behind the transfer case selector as can't get low range at the moment - job for tomorrow, Also lift might get me the room to modify the second fuel tank filler piping as well.

[PeeBee]

Made the adjustment to the floorpan, and rubber boot for the transfer case lever, took 2 hours to get all the 'stuff' screwed to the floor and trans tunnel so I could get the carpet up high enough. Was good to understand how the transfer case position detent rack worked - never really thought about it.

[MudRunnerTD]

Made the adjustment to the floorpan, and rubber boot for the transfer case lever, took 2 hours to get all the 'stuff' screwed to the floor and trans tunnel so I could get the carpet up high enough. Was good to understand how the transfer case position detent rack worked - never really thought about it.

Yeah when we did winnies clutch i took pics out of interest too.

[MudRunnerTD]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/01/154.jpg



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[PeeBee]

Once that slot is engaged I can't see it coming out in a hurry, really good to see how 'positive' it is. A mate had a BJ47 shorty and he knocked that out of transfer case into neutral and enged up a roll over.

[Rossco]

Ouch, yeah had a few scary encounters with my old 40 series. Dodgey lever coupled with brakes that don't work is a recipe for excitement lol. Pretty simple really once you look at it. . .

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[PeeBee]

I tell you another thing, I had no idea how much vacuum assist there is on the brakes and what a titanic of a barge it is to turn without power steering. I had to drop the belts off to remove the mech fan and moving it back and forth into the garage was very strange without these 'power assists'. If you lost the power steering in the bush I don't know how you could steer it around anything.

[Bidja]

Apart from fwd and aft motion to get them to disengage 4WD, you learnt quick to keep your thumbs out of the steering wheel so not to get a clout by the spoke when dropping into a rut. This was driving/good stuff.

[BrazilianT4R]

Saw that on Instagram I believe, probably there is a big v8 underneath but still, a good looking bubbled bonnet.

78471

[NissanGQ4.2]

A bit late 2 this thread but....

I think you should put it into the 2 hard basket Phil and just send me the supercharger for free, I already have a 2inch body lift so should have no problems fitting it under the bonnet *LMAO*


Regardless of what everyone thinks of body lifts I like mine, surprising when I went 2 put my GQ back on the road again ( Blue Slip here in NSW ) the mechanic was picking on everything under the sun as the blue slip pretty much everything needs 2 be working like it came out of the factory, never knocked me on my 2inch body lift, but was going 2 knock me back on a power window not working.... go figure.

What made you choose a supercharger of turbo?

[PeeBee]

Harrop 2300, latest model with the higher efficiency scrolls. Running it at 14-15psi at this stage, with a water injection system instead of an intercooler. All the bits on the floor at home, cant find the time to start it right now. Still waiting on a couple of parts to finish off the assy. Its a Bullet cars system, https://bulletcars.com/superchargers/chevrolet/chevy-diesel-engine/

[Sprock]

Gday Philestein old mate it’s been a while , I’ve seen under your bonnet & I rekn your best option is the bonnet off my Kenworth - then you’ll have plenty of room for more Stuff under , if there’s anything left to put in there ?

[PeeBee]

I am planning on a composting toilet and an organic butterfly enclosure with waterfalls and seating for 150 little people. I know, seems extravagant but you need to reach for the stars if you plan on just making it out of bed in the morning. Good to hear from you again, its been a while. back up in the mines again, struggling to align rosters with forum events I want to attend, though thats no doubt the same for a lot of people - life just gets in the way. Hope you are well and the family all good. How is 'married' life treating you?

Always wanted an aquarium - might start looking into that, thanks for the prod.

[mudski]

Harrop 2300, latest model with the higher efficiency scrolls. Running it at 14-15psi at this stage, with a water injection system instead of an intercooler. All the bits on the floor at home, cant find the time to start it right now. Still waiting on a couple of parts to finish off the assy. Its a Bullet cars system, https://bulletcars.com/superchargers/chevrolet/chevy-diesel-engine/

Will the supercharger sit as high as the one pictured in that link? If so. I wish the very best of luck Phil. I think your just best off cutting a hole in the bonnet drag car style.

[PeeBee]

Will the supercharger sit as high as the one pictured in that link? If so. I wish the very best of luck Phil. I think your just best off cutting a hole in the bonnet drag car style.

All good mark, they fit, plenty of them installed already into GQ's with 1" body lift