Ash's 2004 Patrol GU III TD42ti

[Cremulator]

Hi everyone, my name's Ash and I live in Melbourne. I just got my first Patrol at the end of July and I'm loving it.
This is my first 4x4. I got it as a tourer to take my wife and our two young girls away on trips.

It came with a few goodies on it already, like the roof rack, Mickey Thompson classic II rims with 33s (285/75/R16), old man emu shocks, bull bar, spot lights, snorkel and a turbo back 3inch exhaust.

First mod I did was the rear barn door extension bracket.
I've also put in a flash lube catch can, which I'll share some photos of.

This forum has been very helpful so far.
Thanks,
Ash76286762877628876289

[MudRunnerTD]

Welcome mate. Car looks great. We have an active Victorian group mate. Lots of young kids. What part of Melbourne. Good choice on the car. Looks sweet.

[Cremulator]

Cheers! I live in inner north-eastern Melbourne, but enjoy camping at the Murray and Boisdale near Maffra when we get the time.

[AB]

We do a few Murray trips too mate so keep an eye out.

[Cremulator]

Here are some photos of the catch can install. Before:
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After:
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Custom bracket made from 3mm x 40mm flat aluminium bar. All using existing mounting holes in the car. Two points on the large flat black bracket and one threaded mount point in the body.
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Drain line fixed to the body, but easily removable to drain oil into a container for disposal.
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I had to use a few hose size converters as the catch can has 19mm inlet/outlets, the breather is 12.5mm and the intake is 16mm.

[Cremulator]

Dual Battery Install:

Ok, so this has taken a few months to complete in stages, but I'm really pleased with the outcome seeing as I've never done anything like this before.
I have a mate who is a mechanic that gave me lots of good advice and answers when I was unsure about something.
Hopefully some of this info can help others if they want to attempt this modification.

This is a list of all the parts I bought with itemised prices to do the dual battery install and run power via Engel/accessories sockets in the cargo area.

From Nis4x4 wreckers:
ARB dual battery tray $80

From Jaycar:
Powertech dual battery isolator kit 140A (on sale) $99
ANL In-line Fuse Holder $14.95 ea x 2
ANL wafer fuse 100A $8.95 ea x 3
100A Circuit Breaker $26.95
RED 4GA OFC Super High Current Power Cable 6m @ 9.95 per metre $59.70
8mm Non-Insulated Eye Terminal 25mm2 - Pk 4 $3.95 x 2
Heatshrink 10mm x 1.2m Red $2.95
Heatshrink 10mm x 1.2m Black $2.95
10mm Loom Tube - 10 metres $15.95
6 Way Blade Fuse Block - Spade Terminal Connection $18.95
IP67 Rated Dome Pushbutton Switch Red $4.95 x 1

From eBay:
Narva 81141BL Heavy-Duty Twin Accessory/Engel Type Sockets $30.95

From Supercheap Auto:
Century Deep Cycle Battery - N70T, 102Ah $315

Free scrap aluminium from metal scrap yard.

Various bolts, lock nuts and nutserts from my local bolt shop (far cheaper than bunnings).


The battery tray was filthy, but cleaned up alright.
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It took a little bit of manipulation to get it to fit snugly with the factory mounting points.
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I created cardboard templates of the three brackets I needed to seat the isolator unit and two fuse blocks. This was time-consuming, but I tried to utilise existing mounting points in the engine bay.
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I had to drill and rivnut this point on the chassis to mount this bracket, but the rest I managed to use existing bolt holes.
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I wasn't sure exactly how much cable I would need, so did a rough measure of 3.5 metres to reach the rear of the car and added some more length for running earth leads and another power source around the centre console, and bought 6 metres.
Jaycar were out of stock of 8AWG, so I bought 4AWG.
I ran it through the firewall on the passenger side via an existing hole with a rubber grommet, then through the channels in the floor and into the cargo area via the wheel arch using some yellow tongue.
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Insulating the cable that runs through the firewall with a loop drop to prevent water running down the cable and into the cabin.
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To make a template for the Narva sockets I popped the sockets put of their plastic frame and traced the holes, then measured the centres and used a hole saw to drill out 38mm holes.
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I did this on a piece of plywood, test fitted the sockets and screwed them in place to make sure the holes I drilled in the interior trim would line up. I used it as the template to trace onto the trim.
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Then it also formed a backing plate to firmly screw the sockets to as the trim panels are not very thick. I bought some longer 25mm screws to really hold in the plywood.
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Lastly, the isolator has an override, so you can wire a switch to manually trigger the isolator to connect the two batteries, which allows jump starting from the auxiliary battery if the main battery is flat.
I ran the earth wire to the body and fixed it to a factory earth point and also made up a second earth lead to run to the engine to facilitate jump starting from the auxiliary battery.
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In the cabin I mounted a momentary push button switch that connects the batteries when it's pushed in and disconnects when released.
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I bought some sticker sheets from Kmart and designed and printed a label. It took a few tries to get it lined up. Next time I'll buy bigger stickers and cut them out.
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[rusty_nail]

Great write up mate!!!

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[Cremulator]

Great write up mate!!!

Sent from my SM-G930F using TapatalkCheers!
Coming up with a good solution for where and how to mount the fuses and isolator took me longer than it should have, but they are rock solid and out of the way.

[0-TJ-0]

Cheers!
Coming up with a good solution for where and how to mount the fuses and isolator took me longer than it should have, but they are rock solid and out of the way.

Well done mate. Nice neat install. It always takes longer to do it right and nice and neat, but at least you won't be doing it twice when you decide you're not happy with it.

Only thing I would recommend as a future upgrade is a good DC-DC charger instead of the solenoid. They do the job but I went through a few aux batteries over the years with intermittent charging issues (when you really run them down) before I finally bit the bullet and splurged on a charger. I reckon I've already made my money back in the money I've saved on buying batteries and it's much easier to tell exactly where your battery is at watching the charge voltage. I noticed especially with the patrol my second battery was never getting a good charge, and when it was my main battery seemed to be down.

Just my 2c mate. The isolater will serve you well for the short term.

[Cremulator]

Yes, good advice. I must admit, as I've been installing all this I've been reading about the Redarc DC battery chargers. I may well upgrade to something like that in the future.

[Cremulator]

Tie down points/Anchoring a fridge without drawers
Since getting a second-hand 40L fridge I've been working out the best way to fix it in the rear cargo area without having the mounting points that you get with a fridge slide or set of drawers.

Searching this forum turned up a few good suggestions, in particular, I was inspired by a post by Lowie back in 2013 – Tie down brackets for fridge (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?18068)

That post informed me that there was a child restraint anchor point in the rear (which had a plastic plug in it in my car) and that you can get anchor points that can be covered to stop them damaging things and also look neat.
I went to the wreckers on the lookout for some of these anchor points from a Commodore sedan but found something similar in a 2001 Subaru Outback.
I picked these up for $5 each - anchor points, covers and bolts.
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They are roof mounted points in the Subaru which is why they have plastic covers.
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Firstly I tried a tie-down strap, then I thought I'd get a clip from a car seat and use that to secure to the anchor point, but I found those type of straps loosened slightly over relatively short trips. So that led me to think that the seat belt material would work best.
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I got a couple of car seat extension straps/child harness from gumtree for about $5 each. The safe-n-sound protecta ones I got have a quick release buckle with a push button.
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I tried various methods to fix the straps to the fridge by unscrewing and threading the strap around the handle.
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and even with a double J hook to make it easy to remove, but that hook didn't fit the handle well.
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So I bought a single ratchet strap from Bunnings for $9.95 and used the PVC coated S hooks from that.
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I cut the hook with a Dremel and treaded the strap into the hook and folded the edges under.
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These are the two straps with hooks.
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I put the second anchor point on the passenger side in the rear of the cargo area as I am using the anchor point located directly behind the seats for a child seat.
Note: this needed a different thread as the anchor point bolts don't fit, so I bought some high tensile bolts for these locations near the wheel arch (I put another anchor point on the right side too as a potentially useful tie-down point).
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It worked out that the far strap I can pull towards me to tighten, and the close strap I can pull down to tighten. So both can have plenty of force applied.
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This gives me the flexibility to remove the fridge when we aren't going away and use a rear cargo mat for everyday use.
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[Cremulator]

Stereo Upgrade:

This is what I did to install a new Kenwood DMX8018S double din head unit, JL Audio XD700/5v2 5 channel amplifier, Kicker CSC65 6inch speakers, running speaker cables and a JL Audio CP112W0-4 12" sub woofer.

This was the aftermarket head unit that came with the car. It wasn't powering on when I took delivery of the car, so I cleaned up the way it was wired in and got it working.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190817/7e5fe44a7d17e5557ffa190a45555198.jpg
To plug an aftermarket head unit into the factory plugs you need an adaptor like this one from Aerpro. Make sure you get the APP0121 as the recommended APP0120 doesn't fit the GU1-3.
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There was no audible noise when I did get it operating and I discovered that all four of the factory speakers were blown.
I replaced them with 4 x Kicker CSC65 6" speakers which were a good low cost option.
Some longer replacement screws were needed to fit the thicker speaker mount points.
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The head unit had Bluetooth music and phone calls, but I wanted to replace it with a double din unit with more features.

I decided that I wanted to run an amp to increase sound quality.
Looking at what a few other members on the forum had done with stereo upgrades, I picked a small 5 channel amp that I could mount under the centre console.

I ran new speaker cables from each door speaker to the centre console area. 16AWG for the speakers and 12AWG for the sub woofer.
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While the console was apart I fixed up the gear stick surround with some Sikaflex sika 227. There were a bunch of the small plastic fixing points missing, so the gaiter was sagging away from the plastic trim.
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I bought a 3-way junction terminal and cut the 4AWG wire that I had previously run for my dual battery system in the passenger footwell. This T-piece of 4AWG I ran along the passenger door sill and under the passenger seat to power the amp.
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RCA cables from Jaycar. The 3-way video, audio left, audio right were on special and two of them cost about 1/2 the price of buying 3 x stereo RCA cables.
Just needed to label both ends of one cable to distinguish right from left between stereo and amp.
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I made some aluminium brackets to fix the amp under the centre console area. Two points held it in place firmly.
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And it fits perfectly under the console.
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The head unit came with a bezel that didn't fit over or under the plastic dash surround.
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So I needed to mark it using the dash surround and cut it down using a Dremel and a file.
It now fits on and the dash surround can be removed with it in place.
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Finally I ran the sub woofer cable along the drivers side door sill and into the rear cargo area and fitted Anderson powerpole connectors so that I can easily disconnect and remove the sub woofer.
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I've set up a tie down strap that clips to the centre seat mount and hooks onto the rear seat mount over the sub box. Easy to remove the tie down with the sub woofer.
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I also fitted steering wheel audio controls, which has made using the stereo while driving far easier and more enjoyable.
You can view the thread about installing those audio buttons here:
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?p=787795
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[mudski]

Nice. I have so much that I need to do to mine, but having to remove the roof rack everytime to get it in the garage is a pain. So not much gets done.

[0-TJ-0]

Nice. I have so much that I need to do to mine, but having to remove the roof rack everytime to get it in the garage is a pain. So not much gets done.

Same boat. Mine just gets done in the driveway when the motivation strikes.

[mudski]

Same boat. Mine just gets done in the driveway when the motivation strikes.

Issue is for me too, I have zero motivation to do it outside.

[Cremulator]

Issue is for me too, I have zero motivation to do it outside.Yeh this weather we've had in Melbourne recently doesn't help getting motivated to work outside.
Our garage is open to the elements on one side, but half the time my car is not undercover.

[Cremulator]

EGT, boost and dual voltage gauge install

So this had been on my list of things to do since I bought the car over 12 months ago but it turned into a more challenging problem to solve that I had originally anticipated.
The car already had a 3 inch Manta exhaust, but for some reason the aftermarket dump pipe didn't have a bung for the EGT probe.
I looked into getting a bung welded on, but as the dump pipe was cast it has to be done further down the exhaust. I decided to replace the dump pipe and found another Manta 3 inch dump pipe on Gumtree that was brand new and got that for a good price.
I had a go at removing the old one, cracked 8 out of the 9 nuts, then started rounding the head on the last one so thought I'd better give it to my mechanic to remove. Lucky I did as the gaskets needed replacing, which I hadn't sourced.
This is the old one that was removed:
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/10/195.jpg this is what the new one looks like, identical but with a cast bung:
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Cabling runs along the firewall using some of the existing clips and into the cabin through the drivers side. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/10/199.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/10/200.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/10/201.jpg
I decided to mount a couple fuse boxes in the left side of the driver's footwell. Cardboard template, translated to some 40mm x 3mm aluminium flat bar using two factory mount points. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/10/202.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/10/203.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/10/204.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/10/205.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/10/206.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/10/207.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/10/208.jpg
The idea was to have one fuse block powered off the ignition ON wire and the other powered from the headlight illumination wire on the steering column. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/10/209.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/10/210.jpg
The ingnition ON worked well but my idea of running the gauge illumination to the headlight wire and earthing it to the dash light dimmer didn't dim the gauges when I dimmed the dash lights (I'm learning). I then worked out I had to connect the illumination wires from the gauge to the dimmer switch, but not to the earth wire, to the two wires that had a positive voltage reading.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/10/211.jpgI connected the grey wire from the gauge (to park light positive) to the blue wire on the factory dimmer and the brown wire from the gauge (to dash light negative) to the pink on the dimmer. This dimmed the gauges properly with the dash lights.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/10/212.jpg
The dual gauge pod (which I purchased colour coded from Patrolapart) fitted snugly and easily and looks great, but the grab handle sat out a bit as there is no plastic ribbing on the back of the A-pillar like there is on the factory one.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/10/213.jpg I swapped the spacer with one from a child seat anchor point and that resolved the problem. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/10/214.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/10/215.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/10/216.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/10/217.jpg All looks nice, neat and functional. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/10/218.jpg

[MB]

Looks great Ash mate!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Cremulator]

Cheers @MB. Next is the optional sensors to keep an eye on water temp! ;)

[threedogs]

Wow thats a lot of work with great results. Id just say any
hoses in the engine bay that touch or cross each other to
use a cable tie to stop them rubbing.
Also there is a small door mod using one of those bonnet style
struts. Have a search and youll find it doesnt cost much which is good
A rivnut tool will make that job easier, keep the pics and mods coming,
dont forget to block the egr .

[Cremulator]

Wow thats a lot of work with great results. Id just say any
hoses in the engine bay that touch or cross each other to
use a cable tie to stop them rubbing.
Also there is a small door mod using one of those bonnet style
struts. Have a search and youll find it doesnt cost much which is good
A rivnut tool will make that job easier, keep the pics and mods coming,
dont forget to block the egr .Cheers threedogs!
I'll be sure to secure any hoses and wires with cable ties. I did do that with the boost hose running up to the back of the intercooler. I do have some extra 10mm corrugated split tubing that I am going to run over the cables coming through the firewall, but I'll put that on once I've run all the cables through.

I have seen the barn door mod with the hydraulic gas strut, but I haven't made my mind up yet on if I'll do that mod.

[Cremulator]

Dyno tune

After getting the EGT and boost gauge install finished I took the car to Diesel-tec in Lilydale to get tuned.
I had the pleasure of meeting some of the Vic members in person; @MB, AB and rusty_nail.
All top blokes and very hospitable.

Getting a dunno run was a good way to find out more about the car. Apparently the fuel had been turned up by a previous owner, but the boost hadn't been adjusted.
So I got the boost increased from the factory 10 PSI to 12.5 PSI and the fuel adjusted accordingly.
Didn't produce much difference in the numbers, but it should run more economically and cooler when towing.
Factory TD42Ti with a 3in Manta exhaust from the turbo back.
Blue is before, black is after.79521

[Cremulator]

The final stage of the gauge install
I had already purchased an ambient temperature sensor with the gauges but after seeing MB monitoring his coolant temperature I thought that would be more informative and beneficial for the car.
I had an idea about switching between the two temperature sensors and called redarc to check if that would be possible. They confirmed that it should work and the black wire is the signal wire which makes a reference with resistance to ground and that's what changes the temperate reading.
I fitted the coolant temperature sensor and an ambient temperature sensor and added a switch on the black wire to the gauge. (For some reason the water temp sensor had a green positive and black negative bit the air temp sensor had a black positive and red negative, of those even matter with a temp probe?)http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/103.jpg
Here is the ruffing in to test it works.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/104.jpg
The coolant temperate probe goes into the thermostat housing. I bought the Redarc GS-OWT1-4 which is a coolant or oil temperature sensor with a 1/4" NTP thread. I also needed a metric pipe reducer M12 x 1.5 to 1/4" NTP thread. I had to grind down the length of the thread on the reducer so that it screwed into the housing all the way.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/105.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/106.jpg
I fixed the air temp sensor next to the headlight on the drivers side.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/107.jpg
And here is the switch mounted next to the gauges. I had already drilled a hole for the programming switch, which I didn't need next to the dual voltage gauge, so I used that to mount the toggle switch.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/108.jpg
Here it is in actionhttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/1.gif
I also wanted to add an independent dimmer switch for the gauges as they were too bright at night. I had them hooked up to the dash dimmer successfully, but when they gauges were a good brightness at night the dash was pretty much not illuminated.
Getting the second dimmer to work with the gauges did my head in. I literally spent hours trying to work out how I could get a dimmer to do what I wanted.
Originally I thought I could add the second dimmer after the first and reduce the voltage to the gauges, but this didn't work.
Looking at the wiring diagram in the workshop manual (sm7e-2y61g1 – el.pdf) I worked out that the illumination wires feed into pin one and two on the dimmer switch. Then the earth from the dimmer grounds the connection and completes the circuit.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/109.jpg
I ended up taking a positive feed from the blue wire going into the factory dash dimmer switch and connecting that to the positive wire on the second dimmer (pink with green stripe in the case of the plug I got with the dimmer) and also to the grey wire on the gauges. Then I connected the brown wire from the gauges to the second wire on the dimmer (pink with black stripe) and the third wire on the dimmer (black) to earth.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/110.jpg
This dimmed the gauges when the parkers/headlights were on, but didn't supply illumination to the gauges when the headlights were off but the ignition on.
I needed to connect the brown wire from the gauges back to the dash light negative (the pink wire on the factory dash dimmer) but doing this would basically hook the gauges back to the factory dimmer switch like I had working originally.
I needed to cut the dash light negative when the headlights were turned on to separate the circuit for the second dimmer so I used a "normally connected" relay triggered by the positive wire from the parkers on the indicator stalk.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/111.jpg
This worked perfectly!
Here it is wired up under the dash.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/112.jpg
Here are the wiring diagrams of each iterationhttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/113.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/114.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/115.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/jt4Vgfmq/Wiring-with-Relay-Pins-Numbered.jpg
So now I have the factory dimmer for the dash lights on the left of the steering wheelhttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/116.jpg
And a second one on the right next to the rearview controls that just adjusts the brightness of the gaugeshttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/117.jpg
Here it is in action - full brightness all the way to no illumination (but the gauges still operate).http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/2.gif

[jay see]

Nice work. [emoji106][emoji106]

Sent from my A1601 using Tapatalk

[Hodge]

Great work there mate. I have the same gauge, the redarc g52 BET. My optional temp is just water tamp from thermo housing. But I like the flick switch idea to switch senders very much.

[Cremulator]

Great work there mate. I have the same gauge, the redarc g52 BET. My optional temp is just water tamp from thermo housing. But I like the flick switch idea to switch senders very much.Yeh, it's very simple. You could easily switch water/oil temp or even water/oil/air with a three way switch!

[Cuppa]

Well done with the gauge dimming!

My car (Dx) has no dimmer switch so I fitted Redarc's GA-ELC 'Enhanced Lighting Controller' to be able to dim my gauges at night to avoid being blinded by their brightness. It worked ok, but the problem is that when I want to run with headlights on during the day the night setting on the gauges is a bit too dim to easily see in daylight, & if I make it brighter it's too bright at night. Although less than perfect I have adapted to flicking the headlights off now & then (when using them during the day) just to check the gauges.

Would be nice to be able to adjust the gauge lights independently...... but that'll have to be a project for when I'm finally back in Victoria.

[Cremulator]

Well done with the gauge dimming!

My car (Dx) has no dimmer switch so I fitted Redarc's GA-ELC 'Enhanced Lighting Controller' to be able to dim my gauges at night to avoid being blinded by their brightness. It worked ok, but the problem is that when I want to run with headlights on during the day the night setting on the gauges is a bit too dim to easily see in daylight, & if I make it brighter it's too bright at night. Although less than perfect I have adapted to flicking the headlights off now & then (when using them during the day) just to check the gauges.

Would be nice to be able to adjust the gauge lights independently...... but that'll have to be a project for when I'm finally back in Victoria.Thanks Cuppa
It almost drove me crazy trying to work out how to do it and I burnt out the first dimmer I got from the wreckers so had to go back for another one, but worked it out in the end.
Apart from the relay component its actually simple to wire up.

[Cuppa]

Thanks Cuppa
It almost drove me crazy trying to work out how to do it and I burnt out the first dimmer I got from the wreckers so had to go back for another one, but worked it out in the end.
Apart from the relay component its actually simple to wire up.

Cremulator I'll have to invite you up to Ballarat for a weekend when we eventually return home! ;)

[Cremulator]

Cremulator I'll have to invite you up to Ballarat for a weekend when we eventually return home! ;)Haha. Thanks? ;)

[Mickhead]

Awesome build, the quality of your work is excellent!
Trade background or ocd?😀

[Cremulator]

Awesome build, the quality of your work is excellent!
Trade background or ocd?[emoji3]OCD [emoji2357]

[Cremulator]

Reverse camera
I originally bought a cheap $10 camera from China but it wasn't wide angle enough, so I got a Kenwood CMOS-130 for $45.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/186.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/187.jpgAfter much research on where others had mounted a reverse camera on their patrols, the main issue many encountered was the spare wheel obscuring half of the view.
I decided I would mount mine above the bumper between the barn doors.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/188.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/189.jpgThis tucked it out of harm's way and allowed vision under the spare wheel.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/190.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/191.jpgThe cable came straight out of the rear of the camera so I need to drill a hole in the panel seam and Dremel a slot to feed the cable through.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/192.jpgI ran the cable up under the body and through an existing grommet under the carpet and taped it in place.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/193.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/194.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/195.jpgI mounted the camera to the car with the supplied bracket screwed to the panel seam. Here it is fixed in place.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/196.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/197.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/198.jpgThe trigger wire for the head unit needed a reverse wire signal, 12 volts when reverse gear is engaged, which is located in the passenger footwell.
The yellow wire in the large plug. I removed the connector from the plug and soldered the wires then covered with heat shrink.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/199.jpgThe head unit allows configuration of the parking lines. This is the view from the camera after I had adjusted the parking lines to the parking space.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/200.jpgThis is the view from the outside.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/201.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/202.jpgAnd this is reversing until the gutter becomes just obscured under the bumper from the camera view.
Only about 150mm from the gutter to the spare wheel.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/203.jpgI used the cheap $10 camera to mount on the front bumper to allow me to see forward too. Some 3mm aluminium flat bar made good spacers.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/204.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/205.jpgHere it is from the front on the 3rd from the left bumper vent.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/206.jpgFront view on the screen.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/207.jpgAnd this is the front of the car in relation to the parking lines.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/208.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/209.jpg

[mudski]

Nice. I just replaced my rear camera with an eBay cheapo and its not very good. BTW I have mine mounted just above the rear number plate and just under the handle to open the rear door. Makes it great when hooking up the trailer.

[Cremulator]

Nice. I just replaced my rear camera with an eBay cheapo and its not very good. BTW I have mine mounted just above the rear number plate and just under the handle to open the rear door. Makes it great when hooking up the trailer.Most of the cameras don't seem to be very good. Even the Kenwoods picture is average quality.
I did look at mounting mine in the same place as you mentioned, but found that the spare wheel obscured too much of the view for my liking.
Reversing to a trailer will make such a difference I'm sure!

[Mickhead]

Excellent write up again! I just set my ebay camera up with the cheap ( but surprisingly good ) android 99 buck head unit. FCUK me, the camera they sent me is not mirrored, objects on passenger side shows up rhs of screen! Waiting for another camera.
Might just copy your work from now on!

[jff45]

You can usually set the mirroring of the camera in the head unit itself.

[Cremulator]

Made a bracket to mount a fire extinguisher in front of the passenger seat.
Started with a cardboard template. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/43.jpg
Test fitting mounting position and tracing the bracket height. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/44.jpg
Translating the cardboard template onto a scrap piece of aluminium. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/45.jpg
A little refining and voilà! http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/46.jpg
Testing mounting position and marking the bracket. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/47.jpg
Fixed the bracket on with some flat head bolts with slim hex nuts on the back. Cut the bolt length down with an angle grinder. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/48.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/49.jpg

[Cremulator]

Crafting decals
I thought since the only place my GU has Patrol written on it is on the rear barn door, some scoop decals would look cool.
As I didn't really like the ones I found online (and the Patrol wording was in some totally different font) I made my own.
Starting with a photo of the rear logo and tracing it on the computer. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/59.jpg
I then printed some paper mockups and test fitted them. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/60.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/61.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/62.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/63.jpg
I bought some matte black vinyl online, stuck the printed template down and cut it out with a craft blade. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/64.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/65.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/66.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/67.jpg
It looks ok, but being hand cut its pretty rough. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/68.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/69.jpg
I'm going to get it done properly with a vinyl or a laser cutter. Good to see roughly the end result though and I'm pleased knowing how it will turn out.

[Cremulator]

Under rack table slide

I really liked the Front Runner stainless camp tables and their system to mount it underneath the roof rack.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/31.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/32.jpg
I already had a full length tracklander roof rack that came with the car, so I couldn't really justify buying a whole Front Runner rack system just to easily carry a table under it so it was time for some measuring and problem solving.

I ordered a stainless camp table and locking latch from Front Runner knowing that I would have to resolve how I could mount the latch to my rack with a totally different profile.

With the table delivered I was able to confirm the thickness plus some marine carpet padding and work out the size of some aluminium track to suit.
I found 40mm x 40mm x 3mm would be perfect with a 34mm ID for the 26mm thick table and 4-5mm thick marine carpet.
I tried my luck at Bayswater scrap metal and fortunately found a 3m length for $24!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/33.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/34.jpg
Test fitting to work out length and mounting points. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/35.jpg
Mounting to the underside of the rack I made some short pieces from 25mm x 4mm steel to hang inside the U channel of the rack frame. A coat of rust prevention on both sides for good measure. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/36.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/37.jpg
I had to counter sink the bolts so that the table wouldn't hit them. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/38.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/39.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/40.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/41.jpg
I glued some marine carpet for the table to slide on, along the base and side. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/42.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/43.jpg
Mounted the rails loosely to get the width position correct with the table in place using nylock nuts on top of the metal cross pieces. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/44.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/45.jpg
Then I could position the latch, work out where it would sit and how I needed to fix it to the rack.
Turns out the latch needed to be 10mm higher than the edge of the rack so I used some 10mm x 50mm flat bar and replaced the button bolt with a countersunk head from the underside. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/46.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/47.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/48.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/49.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/50.jpg
This allowed me to mount the latch flush with the outside edge of the rack. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/51.jpg
I was then able to check the depth of the table and make some end stopper plates using a small section of the U channel with one side cut off. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/52.jpg
Here it is with the table in place! http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/53.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/54.jpg
And from the top. Doesn't really interfere with tie down points. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/55.jpg
Worked fantastically for our camping trip over the weekend! http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/56.jpg

[MB]

Beautifully Well Done Ash Mate [emoji106][emoji106]
Tis such a waisted space under our racks, used to carry 2x120W old larger solars under my work ute podder full length rack similar but nowhere near as refined as your beaut install idea, will copy [emoji120][emoji120][emoji106][emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Cremulator]

Wiring the Rear Tail Lights
I wanted to get the dummy tail lights to function on my GU III but didn't want to buy whole replacement units just to get the working sockets.
So I looked at other Nissan models to try to find matching bulb sockets and hopefully a simple and cheap solution.
The bulb sockets needed to be no bigger than 32mm diameter to fit in the taillights. Most I found were 37mm.
They also need to have a rubber seal. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/106.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/107.jpg I ended up finding 32mm brake light and reverse wedge sockets on a 2004 T30 model X-Trail, but the indicators were larger 37mm bayonet fitting. However the front indicators are the 32mm wedge sockets that are required.
Go to a wreckers and source the whole rear tail light loom - including the plug! (You need these) - and also the front indicators with about 200mm of wire.
These cost me $16 for two tail light looms and $2.50 for the two front indicators from a self service wreckers. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/108.jpg I measured up each bulb socket and the different tabs, then drew them to scale as a template. (I've attached the template to download at the bottom of this post - print it out at 100% on A4)
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/112.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/109.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/110.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/111.jpg
I took note of the angle the factory reverse socket inserts as there are little tabs on some of the other internals of the dummy lights. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/113.jpg Cut out the template for the appropriate socket and use it to mark the centre. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/114.jpg Then cut the centre out and mark it on the plastic. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/115.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/116.jpg I pre-drilled a small hole before switching to a stepped drill bit to easily increase the hole while keeping it centred. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/117.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/118.jpg Then place the template back in and use a file to cut in the tabs. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/119.jpg You can see some of the small tabs that stop the socket. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/120.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/121.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/122.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/123.jpg Here are all three holes cut and tabs filed out on the drivers side light. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/124.jpg To wire the sockets into the existing plug, just remove the pins from the plugs you get with the X-Trail looms. They are almost the same and fit into the factory plug. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/125.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/126.jpg Because the X-Trail pins have a slightly longer back half the factory Patrol plug doesn't compress and lock in. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/127.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/128.jpg As you have to run wires from the passenger tail light to the drivers side light, I spliced them in by removing the pin from the plug, pulling the wire back through the insulation, soldering on my connecting wire, then I was able to heat shrink the connection, feed the wire back through the insulation and click the pin back into the plug. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/129.jpg I choose to run the wires up and around the barn doors tucking it into the roof lining. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/130.jpg On the drivers side I soldered the female pins I removed from the X-Trail plug to the end of the 3 wires. These are reverse, parkers and earth. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/131.jpg I decided to use the plug from the X-Trail on the drivers side light to replace the factory Patrol plug as the female pins are identical and I was using all male pins from the X-Trail plug anyway.
Even though the plugs look very similar, the channels on the sides are different, so you can't just connect the X-Trail and Patrol plugs unfortunately. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/132.jpg Here is the drivers side all wired up and plugged in. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/133.jpg I decided to use all LED bulbs to limit the draw on the rear lighting circuit.
Some JW Speaker bulbs for brake light and indicators and some cheap AliExpress ones for the reverse lights. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/134.jpg And here they are all working! http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/135.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/136.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/12/137.jpg
http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/61ccd4e869694/Nissan_Patrol_GU_Tail_Light_Hole_Templates.pdf

[Cremulator]

Some of you will probably remember this incident that really made me look at options for improving the stopping power.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1q6G7yhq9cs
Last month I fitted the Marks 4WD Adaptors hydraulic brake booster and braided brake lines.

I'll skip the whole removal and installation, but flag some points that may be helpful for others fitting this unit.
The kit comes with everything required and is pretty straightforward to install. Having said that, the unit is about 30mm-40mm longer than the factory booster so it is challenging to fit with the fuse box in the engine bay.
It took two of us a whole day to remove and fit the booster and replace all brake lines with the braided ones.
The only thing that required some modification was the bracket that holds the fuel filter, as one of the hard lines from the master cylinder fouled on it due to the extended length of the hydraulic unit.
Before:
8521485213
After:
8521685215
Here are pics of trying to fit it with the fuse box:
8520685207
And this is the part of the bracket we had to modify to clear the brake line:
8520885209

So I will say the difference is amazing!
Instead of slowing you down like you were coming to the end of a theme park ride, as the factory brakes do, it now responds more like a car. The brake pedal has a firm feel with little give in it, and it now takes less pressure to get a response.

A friend of mine runs a garage that performs roadworthy inspections. They use a machine to measure braking performance as part of that test, so I arranged a before and after to see the difference it made on my car. It has a sensor to also measure pedal force.
8521085211

(Note: on Marks 4WD Adaptors website, they have test results braking from 100km/h using a 79 series dual cab LandCruiser weighing 3780kg)
Braking Distance – Standard factory vacuum – 98 metres
Braking Distance – Marks4wd Hydraulic booster – 58 metres

So this is the result of my experience, and I made sure nothing changed between tests (this is with an unloaded car, no passengers, no spare wheel, front tyre pressure 33 PSI, rear tyre pressure 35 PSI running 10+ year old 285/75R16 tyres with roughly 5mm tread, standard rotors and callipers)
85212
You can see that the distance was reduced slightly, but the pedal effort was greatly reduced. During the hydraulic adaptor test, pedal application had to be backed off as the wheels started to lock up (no ABS). With the factory set up, there was absolutely no way that you would be able to lock the wheels on my car.

I am very pleased with this modification and I don't feel like I will require any heavy-duty pads to further improve the performance as it may just induce locking the wheels more easily.

[PeeBee]

Great write up, thanks.

[Rossco]

Yep bloody awesome have only heard good things about the upgrade definatly on the cards one day I think. . .

Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

[jff45]

"Instead of slowing you down like you were coming to the end of a theme park ride, as the factory brakes do, it now responds more like a car"
Excellent analogy!

I also recently did this hydroboost mod and, in my opinion, this should be a mandatory upgrade with any GVM increase.
Hmm, should probably be mandatory for any GU..

[mudski]

"Instead of slowing you down like you were coming to the end of a theme park ride, as the factory brakes do, it now responds more like a car"
Excellent analogy!

I also recently did this hydroboost mod and, in my opinion, this should be a mandatory upgrade with any GVM increase.
Hmm, should probably be mandatory for any GU..

Yeah I did the TB48 brake upgrade to mine, and when the engineer did the brake test he said he's never been in a Patrol that stopped like mine. Problem is, it stopps too good now, very skatey in the wet if Im not careful. ABS would be a nice addition.

[Cremulator]

Installing a BCDC charger
The voltage sensing relay I had installed had served me well over the past few years with my dual battery set up, but I wanted to upgrade and have something that I could plug soar into when camping.

I bought a Redarc BCDC1225D, but struggled for a while on how and where I could mount it.

Redarc sell a bracket that mounts next to the passenger headlight behind the grille, but it's for series 4-9. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/07/33.jpg
The series 3 has less space behind the grille so mounting it there wouldn't work for me.

I saw that All Good Off Road make a bracket that mounts next to the drivers side headlight behind the grille, but it's flat and I felt could obstruct more airflow to the radiator. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/07/34.jpg

I also liked the Anderson plug attachment on their bracket too. A nice integrated addition.

So, I decided to make my own that mirrored the Redarc bracket but included a mounting point for an Anderson plug.

First, make lots of templates to get the shape, mounting points and fold lines worked out. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/07/35.jpg

Then once I had the shape correct, I drew it up accurately and translated it to a scrap piece of 2mm aluminium I had. I folded it using a combination of a small pan brake and a vice, as the two edges were close together. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/07/36.jpg http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/07/37.jpg http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/07/38.jpg

Then a coat of black paint and mounting it behind the grille. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/07/39.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/07/40.jpg

The Anderson plug is accessible through the grille and you can plug solar in with the bonnet closed. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/07/41.jpg

[Cremulator]

Repairing rust in the front cross member

When I bought my Patrol in 2018 there was a little bubbling of rust under the surface on the front cross member.
Giving it a clean with a wire brush exposed a larger blemish. I left it for a while with the plan to grind it with a sanding disk and fill and paint it. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/07/46.jpg
When I did put the sanding disk on there it caused the front face to fall away and open a hole into the metal support.
This was obviously more worth than I anticipated so I gave it a coat of paint and left it as a problem for another day.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/07/47.jpg
With some spare time recently I decided to tackle this larger job.
I have wanted to learn to weld, so bought a welder as this would be a good project to learn on.

I marked out the rough area I thought would need patching. Cutting back the problem area exposed A LOT or rust inside cross member. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/07/48.jpg
I went along the front bar with a hammer to check the integrity and found another area to the right that opened another hole. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/07/49.jpg
I cleaned out all the rust flakes, cut open the front face symmetrically and gave it a wire brush to inspect the interior. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/07/50.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/07/51.jpg
This is what came out of it. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/07/52.jpg
I gave it a coat of fish oil to hopefully prevent more decay. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/07/53.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/07/54.jpg
Then I coated the exposed surfaces with zinc primer. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/07/55.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/07/56.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/07/57.jpg
I tack welded in place the 3mm steel pieces I had cut to size. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/07/58.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/07/59.jpg
Once fully welded I ground them back. The bottom edge of the weld wasn't great, but it should do. I guess it was because I didn't clean up the surface of the flat bar prior to welding. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/07/60.jpg
A couple of coats of epoxy enamel paint and I'm happy wth how it has come up! Much better than it was, and hopefully it will last many more years now. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/07/61.jpg

[BrazilianY60]

Nice work.
The inside rust that you protected with fish oil, why not use a rust converting product and then zinc-prime / paint as well?

Regarding the new welder, was it stick or mig? I have plans to learn to weld as well but I´ll start with stick. Stick welders nowadays are small, light and inexpensive due to inverter instead of transformer construction.

[Cremulator]

Nice work.
The inside rust that you protected with fish oil, why not use a rust converting product and then zinc-prime / paint as well?

Regarding the new welder, was it stick or mig? I have plans to learn to weld as well but I´ll start with stick. Stick welders nowadays are small, light and inexpensive due to inverter instead of transformer construction.Yep, I could have used a rust converter and painted it internally, but I felt like the access was difficult and that process was more labour intensive.
The fish oil was one application.

The welder I bought was a CIGWELD EasyWeld 160 MIG/stick inverter welder.
I used the gasless MIG to weld this.
I think the unit is really aimed at beginners as it's very easy to set up. It has a digital display and you set the wire thickness, and metal thickness and the amps are preprogrammed, but you can adjust and fine tune the settings as you gain experience.
You can also use it with gas too. [emoji106]

[Cremulator]

Swapped out the factory yellow 16 tooth speedo pinion gear with the brown 15 tooth gear and got to test it out on the freeway today.
With the speedo needle right on the 100 mark I'm seeing exactly 100km/h on the GPS speedo app on my phone. That's with 285/75R16 tyres and 3.9 diff ratios.
Previously with the same sized tyres I was reading about 92 on the speedo when the GPS speedo app was showing 100km/h.
Very happy with this modification and it's really easy to do.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/08/44.jpg

[Cremulator]

Radiator dam/guard and new Raslarr rear bar

My old aluminium bull bar had a plastic dam that attached from the bottom edge of the bar to the large front cross member.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/09/5.jpg
Here are the mounting points on the new steel bull bar for something similar, four on the bar and three along the cross member.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220904/c38c34aac9a7396796799d3509c46087.jpg
My bull bar didn't come with any other components so I thought I'd make one up to fit, to aid cooling and add some protection.
I created a cardboard template, then measured up the dimensions and bend angle and got a local metal shop to cut me a 810mm x 300mm x 2mm piece of aluminium and had them put a 45° bend 50mm inset on the long edge.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/09/6.jpg
I cut the corners out with a grinder and hacksaw and drilled holes for all the bolt points. This was a little time consuming and challenging, but drilling oversize makes it easier to fit.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/09/7.jpg
As I had painted the bull bar in raptor coating already, I thought I'd match this new piece with raptor paint too. I just used one of the raptor 2K Aerosol 400ml cans.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/09/8.jpg
Here it is bolted up into place to the underside of the bull bar and top of the cross member.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/09/9.jpg

The Raslarr rear bar I picked up and fitted myself - and I can tell you I see why their installation cost seems quite high, it was just more challenging and time consuming than I anticipated, but I got it done over a couple of days.
The rear bar is bloody well engineered and nicely finished. The new Raslarr laser cut logos on the sides are a nice touch.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/09/10.jpg
I ordered it with one swing away for the spare wheel.
The only thing I didn't really like, and this is totally personal preference, was the aluminium checker plate step. It fits well and is functional, but I didn't like the silver finish. It felt out of place with the rest of the car.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/09/11.jpg
So I prepped it with some raptor adhesion promoter and gave it a coat alongside painting the radiator guard.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/09/12.jpg
It came up well and looks right at home on the black powder coated bar.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/09/13.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/09/14.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/09/15.jpg

[gutraveller]

Thanks :smiley_thumbs_up: