View Full Version : How healthy is this battery?
10G
31st August 2018, 12:05 PM
Going away in a few weeks to the middle of the Simpson, be 2 weeks away from everything and living off this battery.
It's my aux battery.
It's a 5 year old Century wet cell yellow & blue battery, don't have the model as I type. I've been using it the past 2 years to run 2 fridges and some lighting.
It's a "maintenance free" battery with a view hole in the top and you can add water to it.
The peep hole is showing green. I checked it with a hydrometer the other month and 1 of the 6 cells (not sure if that's the correct term?) was just into the red on the hydrometer, the others were fine but all sat in the lower half of the green range.
Measured the voltage on the battery while connected after a drive and it read 13.6v.
Thoughts.
And does anyone know if it's possible to get a 120AH battery that is only 300 - 305mm long?
Thanks.
mudski
31st August 2018, 12:14 PM
Any battery mob can load test batteries to see if they are good or not. IMO, I would change it out, purely because you will be relying soley on this battery and taking a chance, is well, a risk. If you wern't going away, I would just use it until it dies completely.
Yeti's Beast
31st August 2018, 12:19 PM
Hey mate
That cell is dying, they all need to be similar which when you read the scale on the float should be 1260, the green zone
That voltage you mention is what is called surface charge. If the battery is let sit for 24 hours it should settle to its normal voltage of around 12.5 to 12.6 volts. The Sg reading on the hydrometer is actually relevant to the volts too.
Sounds like you need a new Cranker battery
There is no 120 ah battery in the 305mm case
We do a 110 ah AGM
The norm is 90,100,105 and 110 ah in the 305 case
120,125 and some tell fibs 135 ah in the 330 mm case
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10G
31st August 2018, 12:31 PM
Yeah, sounds like it's on the way out.
My problem is space, I aint got enough. I have to have a battery under the bonnet & the largest I can get in there sounds like the 110AH from you Yeti. I was looking at wet cells as I read they can cope best with heat out of all battery types plus they are cheap compared to other types of batteries.
Any suggestions on what I could look at? I was thinking of just going with a Century N70T, they've been making batteries for a million years, not over priced from what I know.
GQtdauto
31st August 2018, 04:35 PM
As someone who has chewed through batteries like nobody else I've made enough mistakes to now start getting things right and the best decision I ever made was to go gel cell for the aux batteries in the GQ ,I have a local dealer flogging them off for about $220 for 110 amp and although cheap they coped well on the recent trip .
The only let down was with the solar regulators I chose which I will now address by going Victron or similar , as for your battery showing a green light my daughters battery was also showing green at 8 volts so swap it out for another .
I do run two aux batteries both gell cell in the GQ ,one under bonnet and one in the back because they are sealed ,both get a work out because the freezer we put in the back of the car and has to cope with whatever temps the day brings such as the Kimberly etc where it was well over 30 the 3 weeks we were there .
Yeti's Beast
31st August 2018, 05:05 PM
The green eye is only reading one cell, which is the cell directly below it.
If there is a dead cell elsewhere then the in built hydrometer doesn’t mean jack.
It’s basically just a guide. They also turn black I think if the water is too low.
Try a Supercharge MRV70L
105 ah, 760 cca and will both cycle and start the car. The Century N70T is designed just for cycling
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the evil twin
31st August 2018, 05:36 PM
May not suit for what you want but these babies are awesome... https://itechworld.com.au/products/jump-starter-900a-20000mah-backup-power-bank-charger-portable-for-car-boat-12v
I was going to suggest for your machine in the other discussion but IIRC yours is 24 Volt?
10G
31st August 2018, 08:02 PM
May not suit for what you want but these babies are awesome... https://itechworld.com.au/products/jump-starter-900a-20000mah-backup-power-bank-charger-portable-for-car-boat-12v
I was going to suggest for your machine in the other discussion but IIRC yours is 24 Volt?
Haha. No mate, the truck is 12v the cpap machine runs off 24v.
10G
31st August 2018, 08:11 PM
The green eye is only reading one cell, which is the cell directly below it.
If there is a dead cell elsewhere then the in built hydrometer doesn’t mean jack.
It’s basically just a guide. They also turn black I think if the water is too low.
Try a Supercharge MRV70L
105 ah, 760 cca and will both cycle and start the car. The Century N70T is designed just for cycling
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You reckon the Supercharge will do the trick for my aux battery Yeti? A place that has 'em is less than 50Ks away, bonus!
Yeti's Beast
31st August 2018, 08:16 PM
Yes they are good. I worked for them for 14 years 🤣
I used to run 2 of them in my cars once. One for starting and one for the fridge. My thinking is that being the same battery they should charge equally having equal plates etc
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Winnie
31st August 2018, 08:18 PM
Yes they are good. I worked for them for 14 years 🤣
I used to run 2 of them in my cars once. One for starting and one for the fridge. My thinking is that being the same battery they should charge equally having equal plates etc
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk ProI run a pair of these batteries and rate them pretty well.
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Cuppa
31st August 2018, 08:24 PM
Simpson ... *any* doubts about the battery ..... change it.
Any new battery will see you through.
24v for a Cpap - guessing it's a Resmed? - I think they get plugged into 12v or 240v & are converted internally to 24v. That's one of the reasons they use more battery power than some (conversion losses). The other is using a heated hose if humidification is needed.
10G
31st August 2018, 08:54 PM
Simpson ... *any* doubts about the battery ..... change it.
Any new battery will see you through.
24v for a Cpap - guessing it's a Resmed? - I think they get plugged into 12v or 240v & are converted internally to 24v. That's one of the reasons they use more battery power than some (conversion losses). The other is using a heated hose if humidification is needed.
G'day Cuppa. Yep Resmed. We got a converter for it so it'll run off 12v but yep it'll suck some juice, but all good.
10G
31st August 2018, 08:56 PM
Yes they are good. I worked for them for 14 years 🤣
I used to run 2 of them in my cars once. One for starting and one for the fridge. My thinking is that being the same battery they should charge equally having equal plates etc
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Yep can't fault that logic. I'll check my crank battery tomorrow, I've not paid as much attention to that one.
Thanks for your help mate, much appreciated.
I think my battery journey is nearing an end, gee i've learnt a bit.
Yeti's Beast
31st August 2018, 09:00 PM
Your welcome, hope you have a good trip
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Cuppa
31st August 2018, 09:15 PM
G'day Cuppa. Yep Resmed. We got a converter for it so it'll run off 12v but yep it'll suck some juice, but all good.
Right-o, I had thought they (Resmed) all ran at 24v & had internal converters. Checking, after your previous post, told me I was mistaken and that they do need a separate converter. Live & learn.
Yeti's Beast
1st September 2018, 12:22 PM
Ps: I run an Ultimate Extreme AGM as my aux battery.
110 ah and it is rated to 750 cca if I need it to crank via my vsr.
And it has dual terminals that make fitting all my leads easy as
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/09/2.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/09/3.jpg
And if you follow Roothy you will notice in his videos that he now uses them in Milo 2 and his support cars
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/09/4.jpg
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10G
2nd September 2018, 06:35 PM
So I went and tested my crank battery with the hydromoter this arvo. No cells are in the green, they're all in the half of the white stage closer to the red stage.
Are the those Supercharge MRV70Ls OK for start batteries? They have 760CCAs. Is that enough CCAs to start a stock 3L CRD Patrol?
Yeti's Beast
2nd September 2018, 06:39 PM
Ok if they are all even that means the battery needs a good charge for like 24 hours
But because of its age I would consider buying a new one anyway.
If the cells don’t get into the green after a charge it’s stuffed.
You would be surprised to know that the original battery only does around 550-600 cca
760 is fine, that the norm
I had these in my old 1986 diesel 6 cyl landcruiser
And it started fine
Don’t get sucked into the more is better crap.
Cars only need X amount to start and the extra does nothing. All you need is something that meets the manufacturers specs.
A deep cycle is another story but what a lot of people forget is to make sure you have enough power to recharge. Always remember you need at least 10% of a batteries capacity to recharge it efficiently unless it’s a Lead Crystal that’s need 30% according to them.
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buy721
4th September 2018, 08:11 PM
my battery is 7 years old, is she done for a long time again ?
growler2058
4th September 2018, 08:42 PM
my battery is 7 years old, is she done for a long time again ?
Waddya mean?????
10G
5th September 2018, 06:48 PM
Got two of these today ...
76245
Hook 'em up this weekend.
Also bought one of these online, diidn't realise how big it is, not sure if I'll use it now????
76246
Took another look at my aux battery and it's starting to bulge, so a good time to replace it.
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