Dawes valve. Will I need one.

[Coldcomfort]

Hi all, I have a 2012 that I bought new. I have just ordered a Beaudesert Exhaust sysen fron the local exhaust place here in the Alice. I have been trying to find out if I will need a dawes valve. I have already fitted a boost/EGT gauge (Redarc)and the exhaust guys says that Beaudesert will fit the 1/8 NPT bung that my gauge needs. I guess that I should mention that I also have a HPD intercooler and steel inter cooler pipes.

What have others noticed? Is the dawes valve a must do?

Cheers, Brian.

[Bidja]

My preference is use manual boost control (dawes/tiilix and needle) to control your max boost (eliminate boost spike)/EGTs and spool rate. IMO, suggest installing your Beaudesert Exhaust sys, hook up your EGT gauge, record some boost and EGT readings with VNT solenoid control (stock) first. Observe EGT/boost behavior and then go ahead and fit your manual boost control sys. Take some boost readings before exhaust install (good info) for comparison purposes.

Have you done any NADS install (egr plate/catch can)?

[Coldcomfort]

Thanks Bidja I have a HPD catch can. My Egt is not hooked up yet as I was debating with my self if I was going to keep the stock exhaust and have the bung welded into that. But the mechanic thought that the dump pie would have to be taken off to weld the bung in. My boost never goes above 15 PSI at the moment.

Cheers Brian.

[Coldcomfort]

Next question. Is there a brand of Dawes I should not buy? And where is a good place to buy?

Cheers.

[mudski]

Next question. Is there a brand of Dawes I should not buy? And where is a good place to buy?

Cheers.

PM me mate, I used to be the Aussie distributor until the creator of these caved and will only sell in bulk to MTQ. Every seller on eBay sell the Chinese copies. so be careful.

[Bidja]

Brian, sounds like your VNT solenoid control is managing boost well leave it in place until you do your EGT probe and get some performance data baseline readings then do Dawes/needle.

I would change your exhaust system. Beaudesert is 2.75" dia?, I have 3'" (your choice), IMO diesel eng do like a bit of back pressure. The turbo exhaust wheel does provide adequate back pressure even using straight through exhaust, I run a stage 3 H/F Procharge turbo at 25 psi and use a CAT/Muffler(moded to higher flow) exhaust.

With dawes you should achieve very reliable max boost max of 16-16.5 psi, maybe even higher and get the advantage of lower EGTs.

You want the latest dawes design (3 Bar Racing /Black Body). I have a spare one of these that I bought of mudski, only if you are interested( 3 months used). I do like the Dawes and could play all day trialing dawes against tillix (currently fitted). They are both good. If interested we could work something out and mudski (Mark) could help you out with the needle valve and bits. It is an offer only, not fussed. Think about blanking off the EGR assy with a solid plate at the exhaust manifold when doing exhaust, block both ends (good idea), you could easily do the inlet manifold end and save yourself a couple of $$. You will need a scan tool to clear any fault codes that may appear if you do not have one. UltraGauge EM plus is good (CRD/OBD11 compliant) approx $149AUD direct from manufacturer in the USA, provide great parameters kW & N-m also, this is why I bought one and decent display.

[Coldcomfort]

Thanks. That’s a lot to take rite now. Given that I have had a few ales.:1062::1062::1062:....

I’ll log back in tomorrow and take a look st it all.

I really appreciate you guys helping me out.

Cheers, Brian.

[Coldcomfort]

Gidday, Bidja, PM me the details of the dawes you have for sale and I will xfer the $$ any way you like. I got a email from Mudski saying that this was the way to go.

Cheers, Brian.

[mudski]

if you need instructions mate, shoot me your email and I'll send it to you.

[Bidja]

Gidday, Bidja, PM me the details of the dawes you have for sale and I will xfer the $$ any way you like. I got a email from Mudski saying that this was the way to go.

Cheers, Brian.

Brian, am prepared to provide you with Dawes that I have but are you going to do needle and egr blanking plates as well (complete kit cost consideration & postage)?
Have another read of my post #6.

Do you have scan tool?
What SS induction pipework do you have (Fabwitz)?
What IC (stock or TIG welded/size)?

Have been in hospital for a coupole of days.

[Coldcomfort]

Hi all, just picked the truck from sprint exhausts here in the Alice. 2.75 inch system installed. EGT is now hooked up. Have not seen the egt go above 350 yet. Is it normal not to put the original heat shield back on the dump pipe? No sign of over boost yet but it’s very early days. Dawes valve due here soon. On the short drive back home I have noticed an improvement in mid range power/torque. Happy daze......

[Bidja]

Some run without heat shield, personally I would rather leave mine in place. Did they leave it off, maybe they had difficultly removing it and binned it?

325-350 DegC is what I get @ 100kph slight load (50% eng load) but I run higher boost and under these conditions boost around 15-18 psi. My max Boost is 25psi.

Give it a bit of a run under different load & spool conditions and see how boost and EGTs go. 2.75" may not over boost excessively. As I mentioned give it a run for while and note down what is going on before you install manual boost control.

Did you do egr plate?

[Coldcomfort]

Gidday Bidja , it look like getting the heat shield on with the egt sender there would be an issue. The shield was given back to me. The red arc has a peak hold function so I will use that to see what is going on. I am driving down to Victoria in about 3 weeks so that hopefully tell me a lot. Thanks heaps for all your help. Cheers, Brian.

[Bidja]

Mine has hole in the side face adjacent to dump pipe and the probe is screwed in after shield is fitted.

There are some nice climbs(good hauls) around Jugiong heading sth.

Did you get a scan tool (should do it) mate?

[Coldcomfort]

Ok. Will do. If you tell me what to get I will. I have never used one and don’t really know what it does. But if it helps to make a more reliable car I’ll get one. Cheers.

[Bidja]

OK, CRD a few options around, they enable you to clear fault codes(eg:limp mode). For example if you over boost to the point where the ECU cannot keep the fuel up, it most likely will go into limp mode. Or a fault recorded if an inappropriate MAF voltage is detected by the ECU that can also cause limp.

One thing to remember especially driving up a long hill (climb) and your boost may rise too high (especially towing), for the ECU to provide adequate fuel over time and more than likely cause limp. This is why Dawes or a Tillix valve is important so you can lower your max boost to ensure the ECU can supply the fuel as required and eliminate limp..But you need scan tool to clear the fault code to resume driving.

Limp is when you experience significant lack of boost and loss of power and you need to pull over on side of the road and access the scan tool/gauge and if appropriate delete the fault for the engine to perform properly. It enables you to clear fault codes and enables you to monitor faults to assist you in identifying pending and permanent faults to assist you in trouble shooting deficiencies in engine function and performance. It also provide readouts of various attributes associated with performance parameters, eg: main battery voltage, eng coolant temp, eng load, fuel usage, RPM and other functions , depending on unit.


I have an EDS gauge here you can have for $25 + postage, that will satisfy your needs or as I said earlier buy an Ultragauge EM Plus (good kit) direct from USA manufacture for approx $149.00 AUD (incl postage).

http://ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/ultragauge_wired.htm

There may be others but have no experience with them.

[Coldcomfort]

Thanks Bidja. Ive ordered one of these from the folk in the URL above.

Cheers and many beers, Brian.

[Bidja]

Good choice Brian. The Ultra gauge has a real good display function, it also reads kW/N-m which I use heaps, especially recently doing adjustment to my turbo actuator rod length. It provides boost pressure, determined via ECU and use the MAP sensor. This provide boost at the cold side of intercooler and if you currently measure boost on hot side (near turbo) you can see the pressure drop across you IC.

Did you order a mount bracket? I have the one you attach to dash, works well just left of steering wheel(front top edge of dash).

All the best

[Coldcomfort]

I ordered the windscreen bracket. They are out of stock until end of July. But I’m happy to wait. It looks like a really cool toy. Thanks again for your help.!

[Coldcomfort]

Took the car out on the hiway this morning. The north Stuart Hwy just to the north of town has the closest thing to hills out here. Set the cruise at 110kph in 5th gear and watched the EGT and boost. EGT did not go above 420 and boost peaked at 22psi. I could never get the boost that high with the original exhaust. What is the max boost before the car goes into limp mode? Next job is to block off the EGR. After the dawes is installed that is.....

Cheers all. Brian.

[Bidja]

Max B on climb try 16-17psi some do higherr like you have seen but when you haul, up a hill or have tow, you would more than likely get limp.

[Bidja]

Took the car out on the hiway this morning. The north Stuart Hwy just to the north of town has the closest thing to hills out here. Set the cruise at 110kph in 5th gear and watched the EGT and boost. EGT did not go above 420 and boost peaked at 22psi. I could never get the boost that high with the original exhaust. What is the max boost before the car goes into limp mode? Next job is to block off the EGR. After the dawes is installed that is.....

Cheers all. Brian.

Brian, read back through the posts and prior to fitting your new exhaust (Beaudesert 2.75") your max B was 15psi now you are getting 22psi(new exhaust) and your VNT solenoid is currently controlling boost. Now with 22 psi this is good for keeping your EGTs down, but as I said, you may get limp when hauling (solid climb) for say greater than 10 seconds.

Now some engines can handle higher max boost (20-22psi). Imagine your country is relatively flat so I would imagine all should be good and you may not experience limp. Take it easy until you at least get your scan tool as this will enable you to clear any fault code if limp occurs. At least with scan tool, you will be able to drive with peace of mind knowing that you can clear fault codes and be able to see how the solenoid/ecu can manage and control the higher boost. Install your Dawes/needle when it is delivered. There is a few ways to set your Dawes for max boost and later I can provide you with the method I had success with.

Also when you block your EGR, block the assembly at both ends (exhaust and inlet manifolds). With the exhaust heat shield off you may be able to fit the plate, mine was fitted when dump pipe was removed. See if you can get up in there and fit plate without pushing dump pipe out of the way. Fit solid plates, some times blocking the EGR can throw a fault code and turn engine light on, this causes no problems with light being illuminated but you can easily clear with scan tool. For Info: If you ever get a ECU remap you can turn the EGR off.

[Coldcomfort]

Thanks again Bidja. I have just ordered a diesel smart CRD egr kit. It comes with a little loom that hooks onto the boost sensor loom. I assume that takes care of the engine light. Where can I get the blocking plate for the manifold end of the EGR pipe? Ebay?

Edit. Yep. $6 on eBay.

[Bidja]

Thanks again Bidja. I have just ordered a diesel smart CRD egr kit. It comes with a little loom that hooks onto the boost sensor loom. I assume that takes care of the engine light. Where can I get the blocking plate for the manifold end of the EGR pipe? Ebay?

Edit. Yep. $6 on eBay.

This is the plate that I fitted to exhaust manifold

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EGR-Blanking-Plate-For-Nissan-Patrol-GU-ZD30-Common-Rail-Diesel-CRD-Block-Plate-/131899444220

I have no knowledge of the Diesel smart EGR kit. So will not comment on it suitability. Does this include a plate and plug and play interface for MAP sensor only $130?

FYI. All depends what you want in the long run.

Look think of this: a plate (inlet manifold (your dawes kit may include one) costs $6-8
Postal remap(ECPT) turns EGR off with ECU remap and you get reliable MaxB 20-22psi (AFR 22:1). Improved pwr and low dowm torque. I have a postal remap, sent them my ECU for remap (removed /refitted and set boost level myself). ECPT did the remap, cost $750+postage (approx $800).

Have a read for interest sake:
https://ecpt.com.au/products-services/ecu-remapping/

[Coldcomfort]

This is the plate that I fitted to exhaust manifold

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EGR-Blanking-Plate-For-Nissan-Patrol-GU-ZD30-Common-Rail-Diesel-CRD-Block-Plate-/131899444220

I have no knowledge of the Diesel smart EGR kit. So will not comment on it suitability. Does this include a plate and plug and play interface for MAP sensor only $130?

FYI. All depends what you want in the long run.

Look think of this: a plate (inlet manifold (your dawes kit may include one) costs $6-8
Postal remap(ECPT) turns EGR off with ECU remap and you get reliable MaxB 20-22psi (AFR 22:1). Improved pwr and low dowm torque. I have a postal remap, sent them my ECU for remap (removed /refitted and set boost level myself). ECPT did the remap, cost $750+postage (approx $800).

Have a read for interest sake:
https://ecpt.com.au/products-services/ecu-remapping/

Gidday again. That’s the same plate that I bought. As far as I could see the loom fixes the engine light issue when egt is blocked. Once I get this sorted I don’t plan on any more changes. This car is a keeper and I just want to improve reliability and usability.

[Bidja]

Yeah mate, the mods you are doing should provide a good result.

[Coldcomfort]

Been doing some research into the EGR block. It looks pretty straight forward. But I am a little confused about gaskets. Do i need to put a gasket on both sides of the blocking plates? I plan on blocking both ends of the EGR pipe. The dawes valve will be installed before the EGR mod. Will that need to be readjusted after the EGR mod.

And lastly. We are moving to our house in country Victoria some time before christmas. When I change the rego from NT to Vic will the exhaust gas be tested ? Would it fail with the EGR done?

Cheers all, Brian.

[mudski]

Been doing some research into the EGR block. It looks pretty straight forward. But I am a little confused about gaskets. Do i need to put a gasket on both sides of the blocking plates? No gasket needed at all. I plan on blocking both ends of the EGR pipe. The dawes valve will be installed before the EGR mod. Will that need to be readjusted after the EGR mod. More than likely...

And lastly. We are moving to our house in country Victoria some time before christmas. When I change the rego from NT to Vic will the exhaust gas be tested ? No. Just a usual roadworthy check. Would it fail with the EGR done? I doubt it.

Cheers all, Brian.......................

[Bidja]

Been doing some research into the EGR block. It looks pretty straight forward. But I am a little confused about gaskets. Do i need to put a gasket on both sides of the blocking plates? I plan on blocking both ends of the EGR pipe. The dawes valve will be installed before the EGR mod. Will that need to be readjusted after the EGR mod.

And lastly. We are moving to our house in country Victoria some time before christmas. When I change the rego from NT to Vic will the exhaust gas be tested ? Would it fail with the EGR done?

Cheers all, Brian.

Mudski has done a lot more of these than me.

IMO, the metal plate can act as a gasket anyway(can use a gasket or not). If the plates have slotted holes for ease of assy, you don't need to remove the bolts completely anyway, just back bolts off and pull EGR flange away far enough to slide plate in and the leave gasket in place and on manifolld side of any plate. From visual/inspection point of view, fit plate at exhaust manifold and after settling in down in Vic then do inlet manifold side(your choice). Could leave EgR block if at all concerned (it is not too long to wait).

Dawes is easy to change at any time, if needed to do at all.

No idea what Vic rego inspection consist of these days.

[Coldcomfort]

Dawes valve arrived today. I’m surprised how small they are. I thought they were a bit bigger. Hopefully install it tomorrow.

[Coldcomfort]

Just did the drive from broken hill to glendambo. Serious head winds with a trailer. Used 160 litres to do the 730 odd kilometres. I will be very happy to un hitch this bloody trailer:driving2::driving2:

[rusty_nail]

......................

dont think hes interested mate, not even one reply lol

[Coldcomfort]

Got a few days off. Next is the EGR block. I am blocking at the intake manifold end soon but wont get the exhaust end done until the car goes in for a service in about a fortnight. Will this matter?

Cheers all..... Brian.

[Bidja]

Got a few days off. Next is the EGR block. I am blocking at the intake manifold end soon but wont get the exhaust end done until the car goes in for a service in about a fortnight. Will this matter?

Cheers all..... Brian.

No it is fine just to do inlet manifold end.

Main reason to also do the exhaust manifold end is to prevent exhaust gas leakage if the EGR pipe that runs around back of the engine splits/cracks (commonly caused by excessive vibration over time).

[Coldcomfort]

EGR block in today. First drive and I could feel the difference. EGT seems to be lower but I havent taken the car further than the supermarket. So far so good.

[Coldcomfort]

Coming to terms with the EGR mod. I am surprized how much difference this has made. Boost seems to have stabilized. EGT is noticable lower as is coolant temps. The car has a heap more low end torque. My ultra gauge says that I am using 25 liters per 100klms but I suspect that is just the ECU being very confused. If I disconnect the battery for a half hour or so with this reset the ECU memory?

Cheers all.

[Coldcomfort]

Hi all, I installed a Dawes needle valve to day. Haven’t driven the car yet and I was wondering how I should go about dialing it in. What effect does turning the knob clock wise or anti clock wise have. Cheers all.

[Bidja]

Screw in Dawes increases Max boost. Screw in needle increase spool.

Prefer to set Dawes (max boost) with needle closed. Set Dawes(max boost) when driving up slight climb (hauling) 3rd gear @ 3000rpm, adjust Dawes to say between 15psi-16psi without limp fault. When happy with max boost (no limp occurs), open needle to achieve spool rate that suits you. CRD can handle max spool eg: needle closed completely. To adjust needle after U set Dawes (max Boost), with eng at idle, open needle to where the diaphragm actuator rod just starts to drop away from the set stop screw on turbo housing and then screw needle in just a little(1/8-1/4 turn). Give it a go, main thing is to avoid limp. Note: needle adjustment will alter max boost slightly. Remember U can run higher max boost say nom @ 20psi around town but as soon as U load up (tow) / haul, limp will most likely occur. Engines do differ.

[Coldcomfort]

Gidday all, I spent about an hour out on the high way playing with the needle valve. I have got it so that it sits between 11 and 12 psi at 100kph. It’s amazing how much better it runs with the few mods I have made. Thanks for all your input guys. Cheers, Brian.

[tallman]

Guys where can I get hold of a dawes and needle valve kit from(not a china clone), the fella that used to sell them on ebay is no longer selling them.

[mudski]

Guys where can I get hold of a dawes and needle valve kit from(not a china clone), the fella that used to sell them on ebay is no longer selling them.

Lol yeah thats me. The plick in the USA shafted me hard after 6 years and a few thousand Dawes valves and now sells them to MTQ. I have no time to this pile of poo and would not give him the steam from my piss.

[tallman]

Fair enough mate, can you recommend someone at all?

[mudski]

Try MTQ for the Dawes.

[tallman]

Do you own https://dawes-devices.com Checked out MTQ they can go jump..not paying $120 just for a Dawes valve, Im after the whole kit.

[Coldcomfort]

I replaced the factory pipe from the air filter box to the turbo input today. It does away with the resignator box. Had to tweek the needle valve after this. What does the resignator box thing do anyway?

[tallman]

This may answer your question.... https://itstillruns.com/air-intake-resonator-do-12156112.html

[mudski]

Do you own https://dawes-devices.com Checked out MTQ they can go jump..not paying $120 just for a Dawes valve, Im after the whole kit.

He’s the turd who makes them. I was buying wholesale from him, maybe 60 a month is used to sell. There is also the Tillix valve which many have had good success with. As for the needle valve. There’s a hydraulic mob in Adelaide who sell the Tognella needle valve that I use to sell. Can’t remember their name though sorry.


Sent from my crapPhone using Tapatalk

[tallman]

Bought my kit from this mob. https://www.tillix.com.au/product/boost-control-kit-suit-nissan-patrol-zd30-di-crd/

[Bidja]

Bought my kit from this mob. https://www.tillix.com.au/product/boost-control-kit-suit-nissan-patrol-zd30-di-crd/

Will be good. Use to run Dawes now run Tillix (both good), kept the Italian Tognella needle valve got from Mudski 12 months back. Still have Dawes (spare), happy with Tillix must say (running max boost 25psi)..

[Coldcomfort]

Just filled up first full tank since Dawes valve, Dawes needle, and EGR block off kit. I covered 1520K's and burnt 162 liters. That gives approx 12 liters per 100klms. That has been around town driving with the aircon on most of the time. Town is only little Alice Springs so there is very little stop/start driving. I'm quite happy with that.

Cheers all.

[Malfunction777]

Hello all
I’m just starting out with all these modifications thanks for all the info would love it if you added some photos of work then can put two and two together.
I’m about to rebuild a zd30 that I got a month ago with a hole in no 4 piston had done 396000km so not a bad effort.
I have been trying to download manual for it but need to do more chatting then hopefully I can get one before I start rebuild.
Was wondering if there is a stronger aftermarket pistons available and if so where to get them
Thanks Mal from Alice Springs Also

[Bidja]

Malfunction777, best to start up your own thread and ask specific questions as you go. Help is here mate but we do not know how much you do understand. So many install options but depends on you proposed set up.

Wish I posted a mod build thread at the start, would be a good reference to trace progress of build mods and performance change over time.

[Coldcomfort]

Hey Mr Malfunction. I installed both a Dawes valve and Dawes needle valve. In the end I pulled them out and installed a diesel smart 20psi actuator in their place. Much simpler installation. But you can’t adjust anything once it’s installed. That doesn’t worry me yet. Hopefully it won’t. Cheers, Brian.