Questions about modifying a jockey wheel

[Cuppa]

I have an Easylift jockey wheel on our Tvan with a 10" wheel.
Its a good, simple unit with a 2000kg rating, (higher than most of it's type) , welded to a what I consider a well designed & easy to use swing up bracket. (See pic below taken from the web)

75456

Prior to fitting the new DO35 v3 tow hitch I was using a v1. The tow pin for the v3 sits a little higher & I now find that even on level ground I am having to wind the jockey wheel up too close to it's limit, & I'm unhappy about that , especially as it will take very little unevenness of the ground to make hitching or unhitching impossible.

I don't want to lower the tow hitch on the vehicle as this will reduce needed ground clearance, & I would prefer not to have to buy a new jockey wheel.

So my preference is to get the existing jockey wheel modified. I have determined that an extra 50mm lift would be a good compromise having more lift with less extension needed, & not creating problems with being unable to swing the wheel down in certain uneven ground situations.

I'm thinking there are two ways to achieve this, but I am uncertain which might be best.

Either the jockey wheel leg can be cut off the bracket & re-welded with the bracket 50mm higher on the leg. The top of the bracket currently sits about 70mm below the top of the bracket, so moving it up 50mm whilst possible would see it just 20mm below the top. This is not problematic for use, but I'm unsure if extra leverage stress on the leg could be an issue. (It's the only thing which holds up the front of the van, no other stabilising legs). I tend to think it would probably be OK as the bracket height is 130mm & can be welded fully. (currently it is held on with 2 x 25mm welds on each side)

Alternatively the lower (inner) leg could be cut off the foot, & a 50mm length of tube welded in to lengthen it. This is a bigger job & I am uncertain if it offers any advantage over cutting/re-welding the bracket.

Can anyone offer some knowledgeable advice please?

[MudRunnerTD]

Go to bunnings and buy a 4" thick pine garden sleeper. 8" wide. Cut 2 x 8" long sections off the end of it and you just found 200mm of packer.

If your concerned about rolling off it have a go at the top one with a chisel and take a divet out of rhe top. Easy fix and store them in the tool box.

[MB]

We’ve done nearly the same as Darren kindly suggests for the same issue you have Cuppa. On top of the wooden blocks we’ve also added one of these rubber jockey chocks too.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/301068405473
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/06/8.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/06/9.jpg


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[Cuppa]

Thanks Darren & Mark.

We do already carry a few pieces of timber which get pressed into use as wheel chocks, jack base & to put under the jockey wheel on occasions (& this before the height of the towpin increased a little making the situation worse). We will continue to do so.

But, even though it hasn't yet happened, the day will come when we find ourselves in a situation where we need to turn around & find we have insufficient space to do so. (Vehicle +Tvan = just under 10 metres long). In such circumstances it is reassuring to know that we can unhitch, turn the vehicle around & hitch back up again. The Tvan weight is such that between the two of us we can lift the weight off the Tvan jockey wheel enough to spin it around on uneven ground (albeit with plenty of heaving & grunting) if we had to, but lifting to get sufficient clearance for a block of timber is not a certainty. Without that plan B to fall back on, the only option is to avoid exploring all those interesting little tracks, which in part is why we have a Tvan.

[MudRunnerTD]

Thanks Darren & Mark.

We do already carry a few pieces of timber which get pressed into use as wheel chocks, jack base & to put under the jockey wheel on occasions (& this before the height of the towpin increased a little making the situation worse). We will continue to do so.

But, even though it hasn't yet happened, the day will come when we find ourselves in a situation where we need to turn around & find we have insufficient space to do so. (Vehicle +Tvan = just under 10 metres long). In such circumstances it is reassuring to know that we can unhitch, turn the vehicle around & hitch back up again. The Tvan weight is such that between the two of us we can lift the weight off the Tvan jockey wheel enough to spin it around on uneven ground (albeit with plenty of heaving & grunting) if we had to, but lifting to get sufficient clearance for a block of timber is not a certainty. Without that plan B to fall back on, the only option is to avoid exploring all those interesting little tracks, which in part is why we have a Tvan.

Drop it and spin it to where to need it and either a hilift jack or exhaust jack to get it back up onto the blocks mate. You carry 1 or both those items anyway.

[the evil twin]

Blocks work for static positions but I agree Cuppa, there will be occasions that will be a PIA.

Rather than cut an re-weld the tube, I would cut and weld a larger dia wheel on.

No matter what you do, a suitable replacement rather than mod'ing the existing setup may work out better anyway

[Cuppa]

You carry 1 or both those items anyway.

Thought long & hard about that & decided not to. High lift jack is too heavy & hard to store. Exhaust Jack - gave up on the bloody thing (but not until we had trialled it extensively).

If we really had to I reckon we might find some way of lifting the drawbar by hand ( put more weight in rear of tvan behind the axle & take as much weight off the drawbar as possible), but a jockey wheel which lifts a bit higher would be a heck of lot quicker & easier (& not weigh any extra).

[MB]

Pop over to the shed next weekend mate, we’ll dodgey this beast up for you :-) http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/06/11.jpg


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[Cuppa]

Blocks work for static positions but I agree Cuppa, there will be occasions that will be a PIA.

Rather than cut an re-weld the tube, I would cut and weld a larger dia wheel on.

No matter what you do, a suitable replacement rather than mod'ing the existing setup may work out better anyway

I think the 10" wheel is about as big as they come on jockey wheels.
If the local trailer place have a higher lift jockey wheel which can be welded to my swing up bracket - that would be the way to go.

My online 'research' brings up not a lot of 'high lift' jockey wheels.

Bos - would do the job but V.expensive. I tried an Ark XO 750 & found it disappointing. Trailer Mate (hydraulic) are heavy & apparently prone to leaking. I could get a swing up/clamp bracket to allow the jockey to be lifted/dropped in the clamp - quite attractive, but I'd wonder if the clamp would stay done up on corrugations. A simple (non swing up) clamp with the JW stored elsewhere in the vehicle is an option, but less convenient & difficult to store.

I am surprised at what appears (internet research) to be a lack of availability of conventional type high lift jockey wheels for the likes of off road camper trailers. If anyone knows of such things let me know. Perhaps they are actually common & a visit to the local trailer joint next week will turn something up.

[Cuppa]

Pop over to the shed next weekend mate, we’ll dodgey this beast up for you :-) http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/06/11.jpg





:) Looks like you have already been thinking about the same issue as me!

[MB]

ET beat us to it :-)


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[MB]

FWIW, Mrs MB recently returned and ‘stationary’ chocked up :-)
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/06/20.jpgForgot about the big work sled with super extended telescopicness :-) http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/06/21.jpg


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[Cuppa]

OK, problem solvered!

First I called Easylift, the manufacturer of the Tvan supplied jockey wheel, & spoke to the owner, Ian, who was very helpful. He assured me that cutting the jockey wheel off the swing up bracket & re-welding it on would be fine even if close to the top of the tube.

A local welding firm did this for me for $10 this morning.

It was then I discovered a problem that neither I, the welder, nor Ian had considered. Doh! With the the bracket now welded 20mm below the top of the tube there was insufficient clearance to wind the handle around because the release pin for the Easylift swing up bracket was in the way. Bugger!

As it turned out though the threaded shaft inside the Easylift jockey wheel is made from mild steel unlike most of the cheaper units (explaining in part it's heavier load carrying capacity than many) & this enabled a section of 16mm rod to be welded on top of the threaded shaft & a tubular spacer with a washer top & bottom added, giving the required clearance for the winding handle.

Whilst at it I bought a new top bearing for $8.25 ....... so for the grand sum of $18.25 I have an extra 50mm lift & smoother operation.


Quite a bargain when compared to buying a new Jockey wheel. I also made a 'diveted' (is there such a word?) timber block to add to our options.

75514 75515

[GeeYou8]

I fitted an extra clamp for a jockey wheel on my boat trailer, by winding the main one up as high as it goes then attaching the second one it allows me to lift the towbar much higher for wash down.