Limp mode ??

[ZD30ZEB]

Hey guys I have a 2004 gu ZD30 and when I drive between 80-100kmph and the turbo is ON for more then 5-6sec it just bogs down and loses power... I have to get OFF boost then ON again to get power back ... why would this be happening ? Any help would be appreciated

[mudski]

Thats limp mode mate.
A few reasons i can think of, Over boosting, over fueling due to not enough boost or the air flow meter is shot. Do you have any mods done to the motor? Is the intercooler the original intercooler? IE crimped end tanks. Is the intercooler oily on the outside of it?

[ZD30ZEB]

I actually just got it few days ago ... all it has is a boost controller running 14psi ...the intercooler is fine no oil the cooler is also original...

[Bidja]

May be a MAF sensor, but firstly what mods to eng eg: manual boost control, boost gauge and scan tool. If you do have boost gauge, give us some data of what you are observing when you think limp occurs and is it just cruising or when under load (hauling).

Opps did not post up quick enough, we doubled up Mark..lol

[ZD30ZEB]

It has a tillex manual boost controller boost and egt gauges (altho the egt sensors haven’t been put in yet ) when I’m cruising on the highway and I’m on boost for bout 5-6 sec it just bogs down loses power I have to get off the throttle (off boost) then on again to go ... I hope that’s enough info iv only driven it twice

[Bidja]

Clean you MAF sensor with sensor safe cleaner, or have you checked it out.

[ZD30ZEB]

Cheers guys 👍 much appreciated

[Bidja]

Cheers guys 👍 much appreciated

Let us know how it all goes mate.

[Bidja]

It has a tillex manual boost controller boost and egt gauges (altho the egt sensors haven’t been put in yet ) when I’m cruising on the highway and I’m on boost for bout 5-6 sec it just bogs down loses power I have to get off the throttle (off boost) then on again to go ... I hope that’s enough info iv only driven it twice

just thinking, you did not say if you had a scan tool or not? Need to clear all ECU stored fault codes with scan tool (quick and easy) or try disconnecting your battery for over night. You can also clear fault codes by terminal bridging.

[mudski]

Im gonna go out on a limb and say I reckon the intercooler is leaking, being the original from 2004, unless its a fairly new OEM unit, it will be leaking. Also, I'd advise to run a needle valve with the Tilix. This will enable you to control the spool up of the turbo, as sometimes a too fast spool up will trigger false positive overboost limp mode, which could be happening with no needle valve.
So things I would do from here if it were me would be to remove the intercooler and get it pressure tested. If it passes then great, I'd be really surprised if it does. The OEM coolers are known for leaking, even from near new CRD models. Then I would get some MAF sensor cleaner and give it a clean, if you know someone who also has a 3ltr Direct injection Patrol ask to use their MAF for testing purposes. And then put in a needle valve.

Having said all this, it could be fuel related. Blocked filter, air leaking in, or fuel out. You can buy a cheap scan gauge from just about anywhere now, plug this in and when you hit limp mode you should get an error code, then you can see what is causing this..

[Bidja]

Im gonna go out on a limb and say I reckon the intercooler is leaking, being the original from 2004, unless its a fairly new OEM unit, it will be leaking. Also, I'd advise to run a needle valve with the Tilix. This will enable you to control the spool up of the turbo, as sometimes a too fast spool up will trigger false positive overboost limp mode, which could be happening with no needle valve.
So things I would do from here if it were me would be to remove the intercooler and get it pressure tested. If it passes then great, I'd be really surprised if it does. The OEM coolers are known for leaking, even from near new CRD models. Then I would get some MAF sensor cleaner and give it a clean, if you know someone who also has a 3ltr Direct injection Patrol ask to use their MAF for testing purposes. And then put in a needle valve.

Having said all this, it could be fuel related. Blocked filter, air leaking in, or fuel out. You can buy a cheap scan gauge from just about anywhere now, plug this in and when you hit limp mode you should get an error code, then you can see what is causing this..

Has not been a lot of info forthcoming.....

Mark, interested re: your 180RWKW, what N-m are you getting and from rpm?
you must be pleased with new eng mate.

[mudski]

Has not been a lot of info forthcoming.....

Mark, interested re: your 180RWKW, what N-m are you getting and from rpm?
you must be pleased with new eng mate.

Tbh mate. I cannot remember. I took pics of the. Report on my old phone. That does and took maybe 700 photos with it that were on a separate sd card. I should have backed the card up to online storage but I didn’t so I lost a lot on that phone.
But yeah I am happy. It does have its niggles but overall I love it.


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[Bidja]

Tbh mate. I cannot remember. I took pics of the. Report on my old phone. That does and took maybe 700 photos with it that were on a separate sd card. I should have backed the card up to online storage but I didn’t so I lost a lot on that phone.
But yeah I am happy. It does have its niggles but overall I love it.


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All good, just fitted procharge stage 3 turbo to CRD, need to sort low down torque more, been playing with actuator rod length for quicker spin low down. Do tune for more fuel as well next week, Max B 23psi good run and improving numbers (140-150 rwkw/374N-m), to be confirmed next week. Moves out >2300rpm.

[ZD30ZEB]

[QUOTE=Bidja;760090]Has not been a lot of info forthcoming.....

Thanks fellas I’ll get onto that ASAP and let you know how I go 👍 cheers

[mudski]

All good, just fitted procharge stage 3 turbo to CRD, need to sort low down torque more, been playing with actuator rod length for quicker spin low down. Do tune for more fuel as well next week, Max B 23psi good run and improving numbers (140-150 rwkw/374N-m), to be confirmed next week. Moves out >2300rpm.

Just fit a needle valve then it only takes about ten seconds and you have adjusted the turbo spool up. 140rwkw are pretty big numbers for a 3ltr. Be careful. I think my old Di was around 125rwkw before the pump shat itself. But I do know not that when towing, the TD just pulls like a freight train and I rarely need to change out of 5th. Different story with the Di...

[Bidja]

Just fit a needle valve then it only takes about ten seconds and you have adjusted the turbo spool up. 140rwkw are pretty big numbers for a 3ltr. Be careful. I think my old Di was around 125rwkw before the pump shat itself. But I do know not that when towing, the TD just pulls like a freight train and I rarely need to change out of 5th. Different story with the Di...

Yeh, have full manual boost control, last yr actually got dawes and needle of you. Now trialing Tillix (both good kit). The main deal with the Procharge stage 3 turbo is that it has larger 10 blade exhaust whl that take a bit to spin up. Reason for actuator adjustment is to hold veins closed longer low down to get it to spin up earlier to bring on boost (even @ max spool), and also looking at extra fuel low down to help out (ECPT Tuggerah, NSW will dyno tune). Run full NADS, 3" Xpipe, ECU remap, TIG I/C, 3" Fabwitz induction, Gauges boost/EGT/Oil Press. Some CRD produce 200rwhp/25 psi max B but not going there..

Your torque low down would be a delight.