What am I missing here? EGT problem?

[blkrig]

Bit of a long explanation but stick with me here.

*2005 4 series Patrol, ZD30, Auto, Stock turbo @ 14.5psi, NADS (dawse, catch can etc), 3 inch lift, 35's, 3 inch exhaust. RedArc EGT gauge (unsure where the probe is installed at this time)

*Car had two people NOT towing anything

*EGT gauge set to "warn" when temps go 575


Flat road, 110kmh, OD on, EGT sitting at 500-550, 2400rpm, But will go up to 600, Have to keep boost under 3psi cruising otherwise warning goes off, I lose speed sitting at 3psi obviously. So I have to switch OD off to keep speed(inturn revs go up to 3500 :( ). I have to keep flicking between OD on and OD off to keep speed consistent and EGT temps under the warning light.

Highway with an Incline (for instance, roads coming into Adelaide from Melbourne that I just drove). Start at 110kmh with OD on, EGT sitting at the same as above. The minute I hit the slightest incline leading up the hill, I have to gas it a bit which in turn temps rise. Switch to OD off. High revs as above, Temps go up to just under warning, But I have to back off the speed to be able to keep temps down. I fell back to 80kmh at least 4 times on the way in to Adelaide from Murray Bridge.

Correct me if i'm wrong; With OD on and rev's down I should have better fuel economy right?

How/what can I do to get these temps down? All I want is to have OD on and low rev's for long trips, without the EGT going through the roof and then having to switch to OD off (i do country km's a lot of the time for work). Around town, The cars great and i never come close to the warning light. Its when I do 100-110, I can't keep the speed consistent and the temps down.


Excuse the noob questions, Trying to wrap my head around this one!

[GQtdauto]

I don't have an EGT gauge fitted to either the GU or the GQ but have recently fitted a trans oil temp gauge and a torque converter lock up in the GQ ,without using the torque lock it's amazing to see how high the temps get just under normal operating conditions .
OD on not towing on a flat road all is good at 100-110ks , slow down to 80 to go through a town temps rise up beyond 110c or come up to a hill and drop down a gear same thing .
Now with the torque lock I can lock it in OD on or OD off and rarely get temps above 80-90c ,I haven't used the lock on steep hills though and have been told not to but I'm still experimenting with it .

[Rossco]

Check where the probe is fitted for a start.

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[Bidja]

X2 for where EGT is measured.

IMO, Your cruise boost of 3 psi @ 110 ks is way too low (very laggy and equates to high EGTs). IMO should be up around 10-12 psi (slight load @100kph) for maxB 15-16 psi. You have Dawes, assume you have needle (hopefully), then close needle off to lift cruise boost. EGTs should drop back. If your needle is in cab, you can do a hill climp and gradually close needle to where you feel spool and power responce kicking in, lock and try setting. There are other way to set Dawes and needle, let us know where you are at.

Would look at raising your max boost to say at least 15 psi as well (higher if no limp).

See how this goes.

Have you a scan tool/gauge to monitor any limp faults?

[mudski]

3psi at 110ks is the cause here. Boost pressure is way to low by about 7psi. What’s the max boost pressure set at?


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[blkrig]

When I get home later, I will inspect the Probe; I'm in work attire so its hard to look over a lifted Pooey in nice clothes!

Turns out I only have the Dawse Valve, No Needle Valve. I'm guessing if I get one installed and set right, My problems will dissapear.

Max boost has hit 14.5-15psi. I dont hold it down any longer after that as the warning on the Gauge goes nuts because EGT's get too hot.

I will check the Probe position and check back later :1087:

[blkrig]

In the mean time, Can anyone point me in the right direction for a Needle Valve?

[Bidja]

In the mean time, Can anyone point me in the right direction for a Needle Valve?

Send a PM to mudski (on here), he sells them.

You need to get that spool/cruise boost up. Full manual boost control (Dawes/needle) and by pass the solenoid is a good way to go.
Is you EGR blocked?

BTW do you know if the VNT adjustment screw has been played with?

[blkrig]

Alright, So the probe for the EGT is in the dump pipe/front pipe, literally 400mm-500mm AFTER the turbo. Is this the correct spot to read? Or am i not getting the correct readings of EGTs?

I have also notice the previous owner left the DEA 3 inch exhaust section on that has a muffler. I have the straight through peice at home. Would it help to have straight through with EGTs?

I have also noticed the same solenoid that the Dawes valve is connected to has a hose that is sitting there lose; IE its not connected to anything. Not sure where it is suppose to go. I couldn't find any barbs to connect it to. See the below photo. I am holding the Vac line that isn't connect to anything on one end; The other end is the very first input on the solenoid (which is the line above the GREEN filter)
.74722
74723

I've googled but can seem to find the answers on this one! Ideas?

[blkrig]

Send a PM to mudski (on here), he sells them.

You need to get that spool/cruise boost up. Full manual boost control (Dawes/needle) and by pass the solenoid is a good way to go.
Is you EGR blocked?

BTW do you know if the VNT adjustment screw has been played with?

TBH I cant find the VNT adjustment screw anywhere. And the EGR is blocked (as per a previous invoice, it was installed with the catch can and dawes valve).

[the evil twin]

It is extremely unlikely your problem is false EGT indication etc, it is simply (as posted by others) that the boost is too low.

Fix that issue first... esp before you play with anything on the VNT.
Adjusting VNT is what I did but for a very good reason.
I did not bother with Dawes etc on my CRD just blocked the EGR and adjusted the Turbo.

[Bidja]

Have a look at this link (READ).

http://www.chaz.yellowfoot.org/Manual%20Boost%20Controller.htm

BTW first boost control method diagram of the link doc should sort your lose hose issue out. Close attention to which side of the Dawes (vac or boost) for hose placement. Reckon this will be majority of your problem. Then look at fitting needle or not.

As evil twin said fix boost first (leave rest alone for the moment)..

[blkrig]

Have a look at this link (READ).

http://www.chaz.yellowfoot.org/Manual%20Boost%20Controller.htm

BTW first boost control method diagram of the link doc should sort your lose hose issue out. Close attention to which side of the Dawes (vac or boost) for hose placement. Reckon this will be majority of your problem. Then look at fitting needle or not.

As evil twin said fix boost first (leave rest alone for the moment)..

Thanks for that. I literally had this open was about to ask where the hell the vacuum pump is? It seems this loose hose is to go to the vacuum pump.

[BillsGU]

There should not be any vacuum hoses "left over" when installing a dawes valve. Who did the instal? Have they done them before? As stated above - your boost on cruise is far too low. Low revs with low boost result in more pedal for more power which means higher fuel to air ratio which means LOTS of HEAT.

[blkrig]

There should not be any vacuum hoses "left over" when installing a dawes valve. Who did the instal? Have they done them before? As stated above - your boost on cruise is far too low. Low revs with low boost result in more pedal for more power which means higher fuel to air ratio which means LOTS of HEAT.

I am guessing the guys who did the install (which included installation of the DP Chip, EGR blank and catch can) have done them before. They "set it up" (at least the invoice shows this). I won't name the company but they are eastern suburbs in Vic.

The left over vacuum hose apparently is suppose to go to the Vacuum pump; Its on the otherside of the motor and unsure how such a short hose can make it that far.

[Bidja]

Thanks for that. I literally had this open was about to ask where the hell the vacuum pump is? It seems this loose hose is to go to the vacuum pump.

Vac Pump port - Have a look down on the RHS (passenger side) of engine up near the front (low down), should see a pipe and push it on there. It is vacuum so it should stay put.

Get confirmation on vac take off on DI mine is CRD

[blkrig]

Found the Vac Pump but can't find any damn material or information on what goes where.

Theres two barbs on the vac port which already have hose coming off them. The hose goes to what looks like a more solid-metal line. Both these lines are side by side and go up to under the Intercooler.

Can someone show me/link me to where this hose goes to on the vac pump?

I've been searching high and low and can't find a thing.

[Bidja]

Found the Vac Pump but can't find any damn material or information on what goes where.

Theres two barbs on the vac port which already have hose coming off them. The hose goes to what looks like a more solid-metal line. Both these lines are side by side and go up to under the Intercooler.

Can someone show me/link me to where this hose goes to on the vac pump?

I've been searching high and low and can't find a thing.

Go back one step. Which side of the Dawes is this loose hose connected securely to at the moment (vacuum or boost)?

Dawes lock nut adjustment side is Vacuum and other end is Boost.

[blkrig]

Go back one step. Which side of the Dawes is this loose hose connected securely to at the moment (vacuum or boost)?

Dawes lock nut adjustment side is Vacuum and other end is Boost.

Just fixed the hose. It was a loose hose suppose to go to the Vac Pump Port which is on the front side of the Intercooler, Underneath the Intercooler shroud.

Just that one hose connected properly has given me more pick up from the turbo than I had since buying the car, and is on boost when driving around (whereas before it wasnt). Yet to try at 100kmh though, Thats tomorrows task between jobs. So thats a big tick. I just had to re read what you said Bidja but I got there ha ha Thank you.

Dawes valve is correctly installed as per the link you posted too Bidja. Now to move onto the Needle valve.

[Bidja]

Pleased it sorted for you.

Give it a run for a couple of weeks and see how she performs with Dawes and VNT solenoid set up. Some around are getting good results with Dawes only, even with EGR blocked..Take a note of egts, spool and boost control (write a few points down).

I run full manual boost control on 08 CRD (single Dawes and Needle) and happy. I also now have ecu remapped (max B 22psi/AFR spec 22:1) gives very good run. One thing at a time - get info along the way.