Want to buy a Patrol - questions, questions, questions!!!

[Big Gags]

Hey gurus - I'm hoping that the collective wisdom might be of some help here!! I have gone through quite a few forum threads in the various areas looking for answers and I now have a much better knowledge than I started with but still have lots of questions. I am definitely looking for a diesel and I also want a manual. Initially I was thinking that the 4.2TD would be the way to go but in all honesty I don't think that I can really justify it as a "need" as I don't plan on towing anything bigger than a camper trailer and I'm not sure that the $10k or so premium will be worth it or not. So in no particular order, here are some of the questions that I haven't been able to nail down yet from the forums and I would really appreciate any advice/information:

1. I've read a bit about the early problems for the 3.0TD engine but would like a definitive answer on which year Nissan sorted this out?

2. 3" exhaust and dump valve seem to be pretty popular along with a re-tune (either ECU reflash or additional chip) but I've also seen some posts about issues with smoke and EGT getting too high. I'm OK with the concept of doing this but I know that Euro 4 emission regulations came in for diesel engines in about 2006 or so - I assume that models after this had EGR to achieve Euro 4 and would be harder to modify? Which model would have been the first one with EGR and can you still do the same mods on these models??

3. 2 inch lift kit vs 33 inch tyres. I would like a little bit of extra ground clearance but I don't think that I need both of these mods - if you had to pick one of these mods which one would it be and why?? I'm initially leaning towards the 2" lift to avoid issues with speedo accuracy but would be keen to hear the collective wisdom.

4. Dual batteries. Keen to get this and hopefully I can pick up a vehicle with it already fitted. However, what's a ballpark $ figure for a decent dual battery system?

5. I can't seem to find a reference to the different specifications and what they offer (e.g. DX, RX, ST, etc) - anybody know where one of these is located?

6. CB Radio. I had one of these in my VB commodore in the early 90s (pre-mobile phones) but have not had one since then. I assume that they are worth having out in remote locations - how much use do you guys actually get out of them?

7. What's the U-bolt hook above the tow bar on some vehicles for? It's clearly not a rated recovery point and I've wondered for years what they are for?

8. I know it's not a question that can be answered definitively but how many km would you expect to get out of a 3.0TD engine? I'm assuming that if I get something with under 200k on it that I will get many more years out of it without too many dramas? What sort of kms are you guys up to and would you expect less engine life for an engine that has had exhaust and tune modifications?

9. I haven't found anything on fuel/water separators - do the Patrols have one as a standard fit? Is it recommended to fit an aftermarket one?

Like a similar post recently by Jiggy I am also debating whether to go for something with relatively few modifications and then do the ones I need myself vs getting something that is already tricked up. On the one hand I consider that potentially a vehicle that has been modified might have been worked pretty hard (i.e. to make use of the modifications) but on the other hand if it's an enthusiast who has modified it then they have probably looked after it well anyway. I am also trying to work out if I am better off going for an older/cheaper vehicle (say a 2003 model) or spending a bit more and going with say a 2008 model.

Anyway, apologies for all the questions and thanks in advance for any answers!!

Cheers,

Gags

[dpetersen]

Hey gurus - I'm hoping that the collective wisdom might be of some help here!! I have gone through quite a few forum threads in the various areas looking for answers and I now have a much better knowledge than I started with but still have lots of questions. I am definitely looking for a diesel and I also want a manual. Initially I was thinking that the 4.2TD would be the way to go but in all honesty I don't think that I can really justify it as a "need" as I don't plan on towing anything bigger than a camper trailer and I'm not sure that the $10k or so premium will be worth it or not. So in no particular order, here are some of the questions that I haven't been able to nail down yet from the forums and I would really appreciate any advice/information:

1. I've read a bit about the early problems for the 3.0TD engine but would like a definitive answer on which year Nissan sorted this out?

2. 3" exhaust and dump valve seem to be pretty popular along with a re-tune (either ECU reflash or additional chip) but I've also seen some posts about issues with smoke and EGT getting too high. I'm OK with the concept of doing this but I know that Euro 4 emission regulations came in for diesel engines in about 2006 or so - I assume that models after this had EGR to achieve Euro 4 and would be harder to modify? Which model would have been the first one with EGR and can you still do the same mods on these models??

3. 2 inch lift kit vs 33 inch tyres. I would like a little bit of extra ground clearance but I don't think that I need both of these mods - if you had to pick one of these mods which one would it be and why?? I'm initially leaning towards the 2" lift to avoid issues with speedo accuracy but would be keen to hear the collective wisdom.

4. Dual batteries. Keen to get this and hopefully I can pick up a vehicle with it already fitted. However, what's a ballpark $ figure for a decent dual battery system?

5. I can't seem to find a reference to the different specifications and what they offer (e.g. DX, RX, ST, etc) - anybody know where one of these is located?

6. CB Radio. I had one of these in my VB commodore in the early 90s (pre-mobile phones) but have not had one since then. I assume that they are worth having out in remote locations - how much use do you guys actually get out of them?

7. What's the U-bolt hook above the tow bar on some vehicles for? It's clearly not a rated recovery point and I've wondered for years what they are for?

8. I know it's not a question that can be answered definitively but how many km would you expect to get out of a 3.0TD engine? I'm assuming that if I get something with under 200k on it that I will get many more years out of it without too many dramas? What sort of kms are you guys up to and would you expect less engine life for an engine that has had exhaust and tune modifications?

9. I haven't found anything on fuel/water separators - do the Patrols have one as a standard fit? Is it recommended to fit an aftermarket one?

Like a similar post recently by Jiggy I am also debating whether to go for something with relatively few modifications and then do the ones I need myself vs getting something that is already tricked up. On the one hand I consider that potentially a vehicle that has been modified might have been worked pretty hard (i.e. to make use of the modifications) but on the other hand if it's an enthusiast who has modified it then they have probably looked after it well anyway. I am also trying to work out if I am better off going for an older/cheaper vehicle (say a 2003 model) or spending a bit more and going with say a 2008 model.

Anyway, apologies for all the questions and thanks in advance for any answers!!

Cheers,

Gags

Hey mate hope this helps.

1 - from series 3 on (about 2002), still worth doings a nads set up anyway. Catch can is a must.

2 - as far as I know all the 3ltr gu’s had an egr valve, I think for the common rails it was water cooled though (might be wrong). Most people just block them off. A blanking plate is about $15.
Upgrade your intercooler before you put an exhaust in.

3 - iv got both, looked a bit funny having the lift with stock tyres so when it came time to get new tyres I fitted 33s. I’d say start with the two inch lift.

4 - for a red arc system roughly $800-$1000 fitted. Could probably diy the same kit for around $500.

5 - dx is base model, wind down windows, vinyl floor not carpet and manual hubs. St is next, electric windows, carpet, auto locking hubs. St L has leather etc.

6 - depends on where you go and how often

7 - dno

8 - can only tell you from my experience, mine did the head gasket at 280000, had it rebuilt and now has 345000.

9 - just a normal fuel filter. Light comes on when there is water in it. I change mine every 5000.

Completely up to you with what you buy. I brought stock and it’s cost me a lot to get it where I wanted. Something mildly done up would be the go, eg bullbar, dual battery kit, possibly lift kit.
Good luck with the search! Mines for sale if your looking for a nice one! lol


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[the evil twin]

Agree with above ^^^^ and will only add...

6. If you aren't sure then buy a Handheld as it will still be useful if you want a vehicle one anyway

7. Factory Vehicle Recovery Point - BEWARE as it is unrated and hard to inspect and is NOT for Snatch Recovery

I don't know your budget but for the ZD30 I would try and get a CRD (Series V onwards or 2007 or later)

[Rock Trol]

Agree with everything mentioned so far except for the grenade issue. The zd30 got better after 2003 but the fix was the CRD engine that came in 2007.

[Avo]

if ya want a ute,DX Grunt has one set up ready to go...

[Touses]

if ya want a ute,DX Grunt has one set up ready to go...

And never been off road. A bargain at 2K.

[Big Gags]

Thanks Avo but I'm after a wagon. Saw one on Gumtree that I thought was looking pretty good but when I contacted the guy last night he got back to me today and said that it's "not really for sale any more" and he wasn't aware that it was still on Gumtree?? Sounds like he and his missus like the car too much to let it go - pity as it pretty much had everything on it that I was looking for!!

[Avo]

And never been off road. A bargain at 2K.

you just hurt his one and only feeling...nasty pasty

[Big Gags]

Had a look at a 2012 GU 8 today. Was in reasonable condition although was originally a firetruck in the Pilbara and so it had a big cable gland in the rear right of the roof (where cable for light bar went through), dual spare tyre carriers, factory bullbar, dual battery system (had a big manual switch in the passenger footwell to switch between either the batteries connected together (for charging both at once) or manually select either battery - not sure of the brand of it and I would have thought that everything would have been automatic like the Red Arc controllers these days??

Anyway, what's the concencus on the more modern versions of the GU? Is it worth going for a later model (such as 2012) or are there advantages of going for one of the earlier ones (say 2008/9)? I'm sure I heard somewhere that the front axle changed out to a lower spec at some stage around about 2009 but I don't know enough about it to be sure.

We went for a drive and everything seemed to be pretty tight - is there anything that I should be looking at specifically apart from looking for obvious damage or faults? I did notice that the steering seemed to be pretty detached from the road (felt like lots of power assist and not much feedback although I came out of my Forester which is obviously a bit more road oriented). Once again, any further advice will be greatly appreciated!!

Gags

[Big Gags]

Oh yeah - the guy's asking $28k for it.

[happygu]

2012 model is fine, and no real difference to a 2009 model as far as I know. The only difference would be when they introduced the factory difflock.

Not sure if I would want to pay top dollar for a vehicle from the Pilbara .... it may have had a fairly hard life. I also wouldn't want a hole in the roof, but you may think it is perfect to wire up lights.

If it checks out OK, and is cheap enough, then it may be alright, but there are heaps around to choose from - especially in Melbourne.

[happygu]

Drive another one to see if you think the steering feels the same - it may be just a period of adjustment.....

I have been driving Patrols for 20 years and love the way a Patrol steers ( and I also own a BMW ). I think they are one of the most predictable steerers out there in terms of driving feedback, and feel more comfortable punting it around corners on the dirt than some of the previous sedans I have owned.

[Big Gags]

Thanks happygu - it did apparently have some sort of lift kit fitted and the guy thinks it's a 2" lift but is not sure of the details. I think I will definitely take your advice and apply a bit of patience and check a few more out before committing.

I did see that this one had a switch for the diff locks - is it just for the rear diff lock or for all of them?? Which of the diffs can you lock (transfer case?, rear?, front?)

[happygu]

Thanks happygu - it did apparently have some sort of lift kit fitted and the guy thinks it's a 2" lift but is not sure of the details. I think I will definitely take your advice and apply a bit of patience and check a few more out before committing.

I did see that this one had a switch for the diff locks - is it just for the rear diff lock or for all of them?? Which of the diffs can you lock (transfer case?, rear?, front?)

Rear only on later models ( and some really early GU Ti's ) ... my 2011 model doesn't have one

Transfer Case is fixed 50/50 in a GU

Front is open - unless aftermarket