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my93maverick
25th November 2017, 08:11 AM
Hey guys iv been trying to bleed my td42 but cannot get fluid to come out the master cylinder as we are bleeding it does this mean time for a new one?

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dom14
25th November 2017, 11:15 AM
Are you saying nothing comes out of the bleed nipple?
Is it loose enough to get the bleeding brake oil out as you pump?
What sort of bleeding method are you using? Vacuum pump or bleed bottle while pumping the brake pedal?

my93maverick
28th November 2017, 09:30 AM
Are you saying nothing comes out of the bleed nipple?
Is it loose enough to get the bleeding brake oil out as you pump?
What sort of bleeding method are you using? Vacuum pump or bleed bottle while pumping the brake pedal?Trying to bleed the line off the clutch master cylinder and cannot get fluid to pump out while some one pumps the clutch

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my93maverick
2nd December 2017, 07:46 AM
Anyone pls help me

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nipagu7
2nd December 2017, 08:12 AM
i know it is a silly question but is there fluid in the resivour. where are you trying to bleed it from, at the master cylinder or the slave cylinder. if the fluid becomes contaminated it can sometimes form a gunk plug at the hole where the fluid goes into the master cylinder, it might pay to clean out the resivour

my93maverick
2nd December 2017, 09:34 AM
i know it is a silly question but is there fluid in the resivour. where are you trying to bleed it from, at the master cylinder or the slave cylinder. if the fluid becomes contaminated it can sometimes form a gunk plug at the hole where the fluid goes into the master cylinder, it might pay to clean out the resivourYeah mate got fluid in the resivour it is very gunky im thinkin from a mix of dot 3 and 4 done it wat would i use to clean it with?

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mudnut
3rd December 2017, 03:44 PM
Dot 3, dot 4 and 5.1 are made with the same base (glycol) and are compatible, but dot 5(silicon) is not.

You can add a dot 4 to a dot 3 system, and dot 5.1 to a dot 4 system, but never the other way around.

Is there any rust visible in the system at all?

I have always used new brake fluid as a cleaner. You might want to buy a cheap syringe to suck the gunk out of the line.

nipagu7
4th December 2017, 03:16 PM
yeah, as mudnut says, get a cheap syringe or a piece of clear tube 4mm diameter about 500mm long and suck it out, be careful not to injest it, is nasty stuff. i usually wipe the resivour clean with a lint free cloth before refilling. if the fluid still does not go thru, see if you can pressurise the resivour a little some how. if still no go the master cylinder might need a over haul.

my93maverick
5th December 2017, 11:45 AM
Would i be able to use a air gun

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mudnut
5th December 2017, 04:25 PM
Not advisable . If you don't have a moisture separator or trap after the compressor and if you have an in-line oiler, you will further contaminate the system. Take the bleed nipple out and check its not blocked.

my93maverick
5th December 2017, 07:00 PM
Must be blocked i took the line completely understand off the master cylinder and no fluid comes out when i pump it, if there was a problem with the vacuum setup then would that make the brakes play up aswell given there on the same vacuum line because the brakes are fine?

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mudnut
5th December 2017, 08:37 PM
If it is gunked up that badly, maybe it is time for a new system, or a good one from the wreckers.

my93maverick
6th December 2017, 10:31 AM
If it were the vacuum would my brakes also play up

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mudnut
6th December 2017, 01:28 PM
Time for some advice from nissannewby or one of the other TD42 Gurus.

Bidja
7th December 2017, 09:00 AM
Must be blocked i took the line completely understand off the master cylinder and no fluid comes out when i pump it, if there was a problem with the vacuum setup then would that make the brakes play up aswell given there on the same vacuum line because the brakes are fine?

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Would be solving your master cyl prob first up.

As mudnut suggested:
maybe it is time for a new system, or a good one from the wreckers

Anyway remove your master cyl have a good look then decide on replacement.

gaddy
7th December 2017, 04:32 PM
Remove it from the car , trying not to move the push rod that comes throuh the fire wall , remove the circlip that holds the piston in , take the piston out , chances are its fubar and filings off it are blocking the bleeder , buy new master and slave ( as it will probably poop it self soon ) and a new flex hose ,prime and fill the master on the bench before fitting ,then bleed the system at the slave , and done for the next 10 - 15 years . Did mine last week .

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my93maverick
10th December 2017, 10:12 AM
So got the master off is the piston ment to be pushed in like this still? http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/12/76.jpg

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my93maverick
10th December 2017, 10:25 AM
Or wat about this dodgy looking rod that acts like its neck is brocken lolhttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/12/77.jpg

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my93maverick
12th December 2017, 09:19 AM
I pushed the rod back in seems ok now is this normal?

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Bidja
12th December 2017, 10:18 AM
Having no direct experience with your veh so info provided for thought.

All this brown like gunk in the housing that where you are supporting the push rod, is it moisture ingress mixing with brake fluid? If so, it appears your master cyl piston is gone or maybe it is some old grease / moisture mix . The rod wobbling around is more than likely behaving that way as it provides a means for it to allign for assy and operation.

Look, it is a bit hard to see bore condition but really it is probaly getting past it so might be easier and cheaper in the long run to buy that new master and slave cyl (trouble free for a while). What ever way you choose flush your lines with new fluid prior to hooking up to slave. Gunk and moisture is more than likely to be in the line.

my93maverick
12th December 2017, 11:00 AM
Having no direct experience with your veh so info provided for thought.

All this brown like gunk in the housing that where you are supporting the push rod, is it moisture ingress mixing with brake fluid? If so, it appears your master cyl piston is gone or maybe it is some old grease / moisture mix . The rod wobbling around is more than likely behaving that way as it provides a means for it to allign for assy and operation.

Look, it is a bit hard to see bore condition but really it is probaly getting past it so might be easier and cheaper in the long run to buy that new master and slave cyl (trouble free for a while). What ever way you choose flush your lines with new fluid prior to hooking up to slave. Gunk and moisture is more than likely to be in the line.Awesome thanks heaps for all the info guys i do appreciate it as im a very novice mechanic, will put the new master on purchase and see how we go fingers crossed

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Bidja
12th December 2017, 11:33 AM
Awesome thanks heaps for all the info guys i do appreciate it as im a very novice mechanic, will put the new master on purchase and see how we go fingers crossed

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OK if only Master Cyl, still disconnect at line at slave cyl and flush the sys thru with new brake fluid very well and then hook up slave and bleed.

mudnut
12th December 2017, 12:45 PM
As above, but go ahead and use the air compress on the line when it is disconnected from both ends, then flush it out thoroughly with fluid before reconnecting it.

Bidja
12th December 2017, 01:27 PM
As above, but go ahead and use the air compress on the line when it is disconnected from both ends, then flush it out thoroughly with fluid before reconnecting it.

Considering there appears to have been a blockage (more than likely though at m/cyl), but to prevent any crud at all that may be present in the actual line from plugging up with the force of the compressed air. It maybe safer to first attempt a flush thru with brake fluid using the m/cyl then air and back to fluid to get rid of any moisture from condesation?

my93maverick
13th December 2017, 11:09 AM
Just picked up my new master cylinder $115 will pur it in this arvy and see how we go

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my93maverick
13th December 2017, 07:25 PM
Ok guys so update is i got the new master cylinder in i can get it to the point where there is about 1 inch of pedal on the clutch but if i leave it in gear with the clutch in he car starts to creep fowards and lose the clutch but if i rake it out of gear then select it its ok still only little clutch and starts to feel abit crunchy three quarters of the way down nothing like it used to be?

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mudnut
13th December 2017, 10:21 PM
Have you bled the air out of the system?

my93maverick
14th December 2017, 06:40 AM
Have you bled the air out of the system?We did but it might need some more im just not sure what the crunchy type feeling is in the pedal

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gaddy
14th December 2017, 08:09 AM
Did you prime the master before fitting ? How is the flex hose , does it bulge when the peddle is pushed , did you bleed it at the slave ? Is the slave doing it's thing ? That gunk will be in the whole system .

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my93maverick
14th December 2017, 11:22 AM
Did you prime the master before fitting ? How is the flex hose , does it bulge when the peddle is pushed , did you bleed it at the slave ? Is the slave doing it's thing ? That gunk will be in the whole system .

Sent from my SM-G900I using TapatalkHi gaddy i didnt know how to prime the master first and what flex hose are uou talking about, slave is doing its this just feels weird and doesn't hold when in gear plus only have like 1 inch of clutch

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mudnut
14th December 2017, 11:51 AM
Did you apply a bit of multi-purpose grease to the push pin and the sliding surface on the dust seal at the master cylinder? There must be air and crud in the slave cylinder for it to be getting stuck. Download the manual and have a look at the clutch section so you can see how it all goes back together

nipagu7
14th December 2017, 05:22 PM
you didn't shake the brake fluid bottle before you topped up the master cyl reserve did you. if you did this can airate the fluid and can take a while to settle and bleed out.