Timing cover and backing plate removal

[Winnie]

Got the front of my engine stripped down a bit this weekend, I am doing it to fix a water leak.
Over the next couple of days after work I will pull off the front timing cover and when I can get my mechanic mate to guide me I will remove the timing gears, IP and backing plate so I can get to the rest of the O rings and gaskets.

Is there anything else I should replace or check while I am this far in?

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/11/161.jpg

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[GQtdauto]

Idler pulleys check and lube , the oil feed hose to the back of the alternator make sure it's ok and unless v belts are recent swap out and keep them for spares is all I can think of .
So your putting a gasket kit in the pump or someone is doing for you ?

[Ben-e-boy]

Do you have the gear to get the harmonic balancer off, which you should replace too. Particularly if you have the bad vibrations you have mentioned previously

[Winnie]

Idler pulleys check and lube , the oil feed hose to the back of the alternator make sure it's ok and unless v belts are recent swap out and keep them for spares is all I can think of .
So your putting a gasket kit in the pump or someone is doing for you ?

No the extra gaskets I was talking about are to seal the sandwich plate. The pump is only brand new so it won't be altered at all. I don't want to mess with any settings or timing so will be getting somebody qualified to do that part.

[Winnie]

Do you have the gear to get the harmonic balancer off, which you should replace too. Particularly if you have the bad vibrations you have mentioned previously

Just a 41mm socket and big breaker bar yeah?
I don't have the budget for a $500 harmonic balancer, is there a way I can test it while it's off?

[AB]

Take your time and I mean a long time mate to ensure all gunk and old gasket material is off from both sides of everything.

Have you got a torque wrench?

[Winnie]

Take your time and I mean a long time mate to ensure all gunk and old gasket material is off from both sides of everything.

Have you got a torque wrench?

Yeah I do mate and will be doing everything up to spec.

[Ben-e-boy]

Just a 41mm socket and big breaker bar yeah?
I don't have the budget for a $500 harmonic balancer, is there a way I can test it while it's off?

Yeah, don't forget the crank nut it tightened to over 300Nm, it's also on a taperlock.
If the rubber on the balancer is cracked, hardened or deteriorated in any way it needs to be replaced,

[jff45]

I did mine not long ago to fix a leak between the plate and the block. It's the 2 o'rings that harden and flatten over time. Mine's the T engine so it's a 55mm crank nut & 500 nm torque. It's also auto so no way of doing it properly without taking the engine out.
At my age, I just couldn't see myself trying to work over the bullbar or on the ground.
It's not always easy to get the tapered cone on the crank to let go. I'm sure you know that you don't use a puller on the crank pulley. It just slides off once the cone is out.

It's not a difficult job if you get your timing lined up first. The longest thing to do is getting the old gasket scraped off.
The pump gear comes off easily if you use 2 of the longer 8mm bolts from the cover. just wind them into the threaded holes until it pops. Leave the nut loosely on.
When the timing is on TDC, the woodruff key is at 11 o'clock so little risk it will drop out.

I took a few pics of mine if you want to see them..

[Winnie]

I did mine not long ago to fix a leak between the plate and the block. It's the 2 o'rings that harden and flatten over time. Mine's the T engine so it's a 55mm crank nut & 500 nm torque. It's also auto so no way of doing it properly without taking the engine out.
At my age, I just couldn't see myself trying to work over the bullbar or on the ground.
It's not always easy to get the tapered cone on the crank to let go. I'm sure you know that you don't use a puller on the crank pulley. It just slides off once the cone is out.

It's not a difficult job if you get your timing lined up first. The longest thing to do is getting the old gasket scraped off.
The pump gear comes off easily if you use 2 of the longer 8mm bolts from the cover. just wind them into the threaded holes until it pops. Leave the nut loosely on.
When the timing is on TDC, the woodruff key is at 11 o'clock so little risk it will drop out.

I took a few pics of mine if you want to see them..Thanks for that info mate. My mate it coming around on Wednesday to strip down the last bit for me and I'll use the rest of the week to get rid of the old gaskets etc and Saturday we will start putting it back together.

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[nissannewby]

Just a 41mm socket and big breaker bar yeah?
I don't have the budget for a $500 harmonic balancer, is there a way I can test it while it's off?

$75AUD for a harmonic balancer plus shipping out of dubai. Currently 2 in stock.

[dom14]

$75AUD for a harmonic balancer plus shipping out of dubai. Currently 2 in stock.

Why was Winnie thinking it costs $500? Was Winnie referring to the price of a genuine Nissan one from Nissan dealer?

[Winnie]

Why was Winnie thinking it costs $500? Was Winnie referring to the price of a genuine Nissan one from Nissan dealer?http://patrolapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-harmonic-balancer-for-gq-and-na-gu-td42

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[nissannewby]

Ben isnt talking about that bit although that is incredibly dear. You want the dampener that bolts to it which is what I quoted.

[nissannewby]

http://patrolapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-harmonic-balancer-for-gq-and-na-gu-td42

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This part is $162aud with 11 in stock plus shipping.

[mudnut]

Just a quick fix for undoing the bolt. I used an impact socket with a breaker bar and a heavy bit of pipe. I wedged the breaker bar and pipe onto the concrete and briefly turned the ignition key to start. It cracked the bolt. This worked on the RB30, but it is a lot smaller than a TB or TD.

To torque the bolt on an auto, place an old V belt on the harmonic balancer and twist it real tight with a bit of strong pipe. Slip a longer bit of pipe through and wedge it onto something solid.

If done right, you should be able to torque the bolt to spec.

[dom14]

Just a quick fix for undoing the bolt. I used an impact socket with a breaker bar and a heavy bit of pipe. I wedged the breaker bar and pipe onto the concrete and briefly turned the ignition key to start. It cracked the bolt. This worked on the RB30, but it is a lot smaller than a TB or TD.

To torque the bolt on an auto, place an old V belt on the harmonic balancer and twist it real tight with a bit of strong pipe. Slip a longer bit of pipe through and wedge it onto something solid.

If done right, you should be able to torque the bolt to spec.

I've been doing the undoing and tightening both by putting it into first gear & combining handbrake or brake(lock the brake pedal using a jack) with it as well.

Does that stress the gears too much??!!
I'm thinking, using a rattle gun would also stress the gears(if it's in gears), would it not?

[dom14]

This part is $162aud with 11 in stock plus shipping.

It should come to around $200 with shipping. I think that's a fair price as oppose to over $500 here.

Something's not right for a complete harmonic balancer to cost over five hundred bucks.

[mudnut]

I've been doing the undoing and tightening both by putting it into first gear & combining handbrake or brake(lock the brake pedal using a jack) with it as well.

Does that stress the gears too much??!!
I thinking, using a rattle gun would also stress the gears(if it's in gears), would it not?

Dunno, and dunno. I would never use a rattle gun on engine parts anyway. Having a manual I just chuck it in gear with the handbrake on and use the ratchet and then the torque wrench.

[dom14]

Dunno, and dunno. I would never use a rattle gun on engine parts anyway. Having a manual I just chuck it in gear with the handbrake on and use the ratchet and then the torque wrench.

Yeah, wouldn't use the rattle gun on it either, but I know mechanics do(or at least some of them do when they can squeeze in a rattle gun in there).

The reason I asked 'cos I've never used the cranking method to loosen it, and for some reason felt uncomfortable with it, but I do know most guys use that method without any dramas.
I just felt I'm the only one use the gear lock and breaker bar method to undo it.

[mudski]

PM me your deets mate. I'll send you the two orings for the timing plate.

[Winnie]

PM me your deets mate. I'll send you the two orings for the timing plate.Thanks mate, I didn't even think about you for parts! But I have this kit on order.
http://patrolapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-gq-patrol-early-td42-timing-cover-gasket-set/genuine-nissan-gq-patrol-early-td42-timing-cover-gasket-set1

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[mudski]

yeah that kit has got everything you need. looks the goods.

[Winnie]

Seriously struggling to remove the crank pulley. Can't get the tapered cone to release.

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[Winnie]

Had a major win today and with help from a bigger hammer, got the crank pulley off.
Pulled the timing gears and backing plate off and it was very obvious where the leak was coming from so this hasn't all been a waste of time.
Now it's time to start cleaning the surfaces ready to be put back together.
Tore the bloody sump gasket though when I was pulling off the timing cover so will have to change that out too now. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/11/204.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/11/205.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/11/206.jpg

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[Ben-e-boy]

What's the rubber on the back of the balancer look like?

[Winnie]

Visually it looks fine. I've had 2 mates who are mechanics look at it and say there's nothing wrong with it but didn't do anything other than look at it.

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[dom14]

Visually it looks fine. I've had 2 mates who are mechanics look at it and say there's nothing wrong with it but didn't do anything other than look at it.

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I guess you can give it a clean with WD40 and a wire brush and see if there are any cracks, but if a mechanic says it's ok, then it must be ok.

Pretty interesting to see the not so simple timing gear inside a TD42.

[dom14]

Is this a turbo TD42 or an NA one?

[Winnie]

Is this a turbo TD42 or an NA one?It's an NA engine with after market turbo.

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[Ben-e-boy]

Visually it looks fine. I've had 2 mates who are mechanics look at it and say there's nothing wrong with it but didn't do anything other than look at it.

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I still think it should be replaced, the rubber 25 ish years old. I will also harp on about this for some time until I am unequivocally proved wrong
You have a said few times when it comes to vibration from your trailing arm bush style engine mounts, that it is pretty ordinary,

[Winnie]

I still think it should be replaced, the rubber 25 ish years old. I will also harp on about this for some time until I am unequivocally proved wrong
You have a said few times when it comes to vibration from your trailing arm bush style engine mounts, that it is pretty ordinary,Yeah but before I put those engine mounts in I had no vibrations at all and it was smooth as. I am thinking about swapping them out and seeing how it goes.

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[Ben-e-boy]

I'll shut up it about it if you take a detailed pic of it for me.

[AB]

Sorry Winnie..lol.. :useless:

[Winnie]

I'll shut up it about it if you take a detailed pic of it for me.. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/11/241.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/11/242.jpg

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[nissannewby]

I would be changing it.

[Ben-e-boy]

You can see little cracks in the top pic.
The pully needs to come off to check the rest of the rubber aswell

Here is one I prepared earlier. It is cracked pretty bad from about 9 o'clock to 2 o'clock and it continues around to about 6 o'clock.

73909

[dom14]

I still think it should be replaced, the rubber 25 ish years old. I will also harp on about this for some time until I am unequivocally proved wrong
You have a said few times when it comes to vibration from your trailing arm bush style engine mounts, that it is pretty ordinary,

Is this something that only applies to Diesel engines? Mine's over 25 years old as well.

[Ben-e-boy]

No it is every motor that has a rubber harmonic balancer/damper. Whatever you want to call it. The rubber is there to obsorb it. It wont do it if it is cracked, fatigued or brittle.

I only take the TD balancers very seriously because harmonic imbalance fatigues the crank and then torque turns it into a 2 piece unit. With many of us taking the power and torque output to 200% and more, and snapping cranks becoming a fairly common occurrence. I think the $75 for a new unit isnt a bad idea.

I have a spare t motor crank in my shed wrapped up and linished ready to. I get asked once or twice a month if I want to sell it. The answer is always no because I will need it for my self one day.

[MudRunnerTD]

Got the front of my engine stripped down a bit this weekend, I am doing it to fix a water leak.
Over the next couple of days after work I will pull off the front timing cover and when I can get my mechanic mate to guide me I will remove the timing gears, IP and backing plate so I can get to the rest of the O rings and gaskets.

Is there anything else I should replace or check while I am this far in?

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/11/161.jpg

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Hey Winnie, a very timely thread for me. I need to replace that long bolt that holds the thermostat on that i snapped when i swapped things over. This afternoon i was trying to take the housing off and i cant figure if i have a phantom bolt i cant find holding the thing on or not. I think maybe the snapped bolt may be pinning it looking at your pic there. The broken bolt is the right side of the water pump housing i think. Can you post a pic of the thermostat housing from the other way mate. The factory manual doesn't really offer another angle either and doesn't detail that long bolt other than torque settings. Cheers mate

[Winnie]

I'll grab a quick pic tomorrow arvo for you mate.
The bolts should all be very obvious though.

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[jjjag]

hi winnie
how long did this take
anything youd recommend when doing this again
i may be doing this soon
my engine has me dumbfounded as it has 55mm cranknut,oil drain in sump water lines into turbo from thermo housing but mine has a low engine number td42091600 1999 model

[Ben-e-boy]

hi winnie
how long did this take
anything youd recommend when doing this again
i may be doing this soon
my engine has me dumbfounded as it has 55mm cranknut,oil drain in sump water lines into turbo from thermo housing but mine has a low engine number td42091600 1999 model

You have an post Aug 95 NA blacktop. From what you describe.

[jjjag]

thanks benny
i thought with the factory 1" oil drain, and bigger crank would exclude this being na

[jjjag]

finally found that a 55mm crank and block drain will generally mean its a t engine