My 'New' Patrol

[Karl07]

Hi guys,

Just thought i would share my new Patrol after heeding the advice I got in my last question.
Extremely happy with my purchase, and it seems that everything was done right already.

2005 Patrol DX
266K body 16K engine/clutch/radiator/ intercooler/ turbo/etc
Chipped
NADS
2" suspension lift
Airbags
33" ats
Arb bullbar
Led driving lights
Led headlights
Twin antennas
Gme uhf
Arb turbo timer
Brake controller
Android head unit with camera
Roof racks x3
Awning
Tint
Rollbar
Towbar
Dual drawers
Rear power center with 4 12v, usb, voltage output
Dual batteries
Snorkel
And probably more im missing.

I do have one question, i know that turbo engine lag a bit, so i thought nothing of it, but it really is gutless until that turbo spools up around 2500rpm.
I mean it just feels like it's not moving at all.
It's chipped but maybe a different chip or tune or something?

[Karl07]

73679
73680
73681

[GQtdauto]

Mate great rig and virtually everything you would ever need added on already , as for turbo lag just make sure you're MAF sensor is not dirty or stuffed , if you know someone with the same model just try a swap and see if there's any difference .
You say it's chipped but this could also be your problem if it's not done right or there's a problem with the chip .
Putting big rubber ,draws and all that fruit on it adds a bit of weight but the chip should have countered it .

[GQtdauto]

Also what size exhaust is on it and is it straight through .

[Karl07]

Yeah i might grab some maf cleaner and try that.
My dad has an st i think the same year so i might see if i can try his.
I know it won't be a fast car, but dads is very similar and his is far more quicker off the line.
It is a 3" straight through

[Bidja]

Agree with all GQtdauto comments. Check your MAF sensor and give it a clean anyway.

Do you have manual boost control (Dawes/Tillix with needle)?

If you do, IMO close your needle valve a bit (first note where it is now) record No turns and increments off valve seat.

More closed it is, the quicker it will spool up but your cruise boost will rise and watch your EGTs as well. Leave your Dawes or Tillix where it is.

Initially try closing needle a third of the amount that it is currently opened at. See how she performs then adjust by smaller increments to suit (needle open slower spool/close quicker spool rate). From what I have read for DI eng and IMO, one one turn off the seat would be as far as I would close the needle valve.

[Karl07]

Thanks for the replies guys.
I am heading off to Grafton tonight so I will look at the MAF sensor against Dads tomorrow.
Regardless, I will give it a clean asap anyway.
I don't believe I have a manual boost controller that I saw, and I am not sure what a Dawes/Tillix is.

I am getting more used to how to control it so that the acceleration isn't as bad, but I know Dad can start his is 2nd, and mine almost stalls.
At 1500rpm the turbo is starting to spool, at 2000rpm the boost really starts kicking in and is around 10psi. At 2500rpm I hit full boost which is 14psi and it really gets moving.
Plenty at highway speeds, and in 5th gear it is very easy to overtake.
Having to get used to the gearing but it seems quite well suited to highway.

Also, doesn't appear to blow any smoke at all...I am used to diesels always blowing...is this normal?

One other question on the EGT gauge...where does it take it's reading from? The combined Boost/EGT gauge is moving on the Boost side, but the EGTs seem to not move. The gauge goes from 300-700, and it always sits below the 300 mark, so either not working, or sitting around 250 max. Where should I be sitting in town/highway?

[GQtdauto]

Straight thru 3" exhaust is in your favour , I'm amazed it doesn't throw some black smoke on acceleration, I wonder if you have standard diff ratios .

[Karl07]

GQtdauto, I did not even consider the prospect of changed diff ratios...good call.
I will look into that.
I assume that the best way to check those is the old "spin the wheels and count the rotations versus the drive shaft" method?

[GQtdauto]

I'll be honest mate I have no idea but I believe you can do it that way .

[Bidja]

I will look at the MAF sensor against Dads tomorrow.
Regardless, I will give it a clean asap anyway.

Use only a MAF sensor cleaner (CRC or the like).


I don't believe I have a manual boost controller that I saw, and I am not sure what a Dawes/Tillix is.

Manual Boost control enable you set your max boost (with Dawes /Tillix) and spool rate and cruise boost (with needle valve). Dawes and Tillix are similar in operation. They can raise or lower the Max Boost level and are a one flow directional adjustable valve, eg: increase max boost pressure by screw adjusting the assy up which compresses a spring that forces a ball (at one end) up against the valve body seat and unscrewing it will lower the max boost.

The needle valve (adjustable) is basically a needlepoint on the end of a screw shaft and by closing it will increase the spool rate/pwr response and cruise boost. The reverse if unscrewed / opened.

IMO, manual boost control is a good investment and a good DIY mod.

It appears your boost behaviour and egts are not exhibiting erratic or high reading so you appear ok without manual boost control.
IMO, I would aim for max boost of around 15psi (if no limp occurs) but manual boost control is required.
Higher the boost lower the egts (just info).

Do a google on Dawes and you will get plenty to read, and a lot on the forum.



One other question on the EGT gauge...where does it take it's reading from? The combined Boost/EGT gauge is moving on the Boost side, but the EGTs seem to not move. The gauge goes from 300-700, and it always sits below the 300 mark, so either not working, or sitting around 250 max. Where should I be sitting in town/highway?

There is probably a probe (pyro) located in the exhaust dump pipe.

My experience is primarily CRD. EGTs below 300 DegC are fine cruising around for DI eng. I think under high load situations (long hauls) should not to go over 500 DegC. Others may comment further but once again do a search as there is plenty of info out there.

With gearing ratios: Check your revs relative to speed against and other car of similar build (yr/model). Wheel tyre running dia will give varied performance. But you are checking RPM relative to speedo reading and comparing one against the other. Maybe your dads.

[Karl07]

Thank you for that detailed answer.
I will get the MAF cleaner from Supercheap on my next day off.
I have had Manual Boost Controllers previously, but had never heard of Dawes/Tilix.
I also did not realize that higher boost gives lower EGTs...that's very good knowledge to have.
As for the EGT gauge, I will verify that the probe is connected correctly, and hopefully if the EGTs rise, it will do it on the 4hr trip to the parents, and that will at least let me know that it is working haha.

[Karl07]

Well I did the drive to Grafton. 4 hours at 100-110. The EGT gauge did not move, so I would br guessing it was fitted only for the boost part.
Looks like ill have to get under there and fit the probe if its not there...i assume i can tap it at any point in the dump?

I drove dad's Patrol, and im now much happier with the power of mine.
His certainly accelerates from a standstill easier, and the revs seem a bit more free, however my power comes in higher in the range and leaves his behind, so i guess its more likely that my chip is tuned differently than his.

He did tell me to get rid of the K&N in mine and get a genuine filter back in asap, so i will do that when i clean the MAF.