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View Full Version : DIY GQ Manual Gearbox Rebuild 4.2 Petrol



Damo
8th October 2017, 12:01 AM
Hi All

So I've always wanted to rebuild a manual gear box, and now my newly aquired GQ has some real issues shifting I think I'll have my chance.

I've priced up bearings and syncros, but I'm wondering what it's likely to cost or need doing when it comes to gears, shift forks, sliders etc. Is it likely most of the other stuff will be fine.

My plan is to buy another gearbox, rebuild that, then swap them over, but I'm not really wanting to invest more than a brand new one from Nissan would cost (about $2800).

Ideally I'd like this around thew $1700 mark.

cheers
Damo

tuckertrucker
10th November 2017, 07:58 PM
Old thread.... how'd you get on?
From the sounds of it, itll be the FS5R50A box? Big heavy cast iron case?

I've just bought one and doing a manual swap on my auto GQ (a surprisingly easy job besides the heavy lifting). I expect when you strip it down the synchros and bearings will be all thats worn. but while stipping down i guess you'd find anything else. If youre doing it yourself, or have done so already - give us some photos if you got any.

cheers, Dylan

NissanGQ4.2
10th November 2017, 08:11 PM
I've just bought one and doing a manual swap on my auto GQ

Why convert it from auto 2 manual Dylan? I'm lazy and love my Auto...... well when my GQ left the driveway :(

Damo
11th November 2017, 01:12 AM
Old thread.... how'd you get on?
From the sounds of it, itll be the FS5R50A box? Big heavy cast iron case?

I've just bought one and doing a manual swap on my auto GQ (a surprisingly easy job besides the heavy lifting). I expect when you strip it down the synchros and bearings will be all thats worn. but while stipping down i guess you'd find anything else. If youre doing it yourself, or have done so already - give us some photos if you got any.

cheers, Dylan

I've bought what I think is a good second hand box to rebuild. I've got a new genuine main shaft and bearings ($295 the lot, killer score off gumtree). Just need to get the syncros going. I'm a uni student with 5 kids so the money tight.

I'll have plenty of time over the school holidays so might get it dont then. I need to find $1200 for the syncros. Not goig to bother if I can renew them all.

And photos will come if/when I get around to it. I'm thinking my currently hard shifting gearbox would benefit from a shiftwer bush and new oil as it doesnt ever grind.

And, the gearbox is BIG. It's nearly as tall as my eleven year old kid. It has dampened my enthusiasm as it is WAY bigger than I realised. This aint no toyota box.

cheers
Damo

GQtdauto
11th November 2017, 06:19 AM
I have to wonder myself why swap an auto for a manual ? Driven both and the auto is so much easier especially when in low range , do admire your diy ability though .

tuckertrucker
12th November 2017, 11:10 AM
Yep, very big boxes. I had the hopes of picking mine up with a town car thinking two blokes could lift it in and out of the boot. Thank god it got a flatty and I borrowed a mates van for it. 200km for a gearbox and wouldn't have got it in the car.

I personally prefer manuals to drive. Nothing against autos at all - dont get me wrong. But having driven manuals and auto's, I certainly prefer the manual. Simpler and easier for me to understand too.

Part two of my reason is that my auto is also flogged. Lockup clutch tries to engage in low 1st, and it slips in 1st and 3rd. Rebuild costs in NZ are astronomical - especially when for 1/2 the price I can put a decent manual in and be happy with it.

tuckertrucker
12th November 2017, 11:20 AM
I also don't do much 4WD, mainly touring and towing. I've driven bighorns, prados, landys, safaris, manuals and autos and i just like the stick and pedal feel of a manual. But its a real easy conversion though.
The pedal box bolts straight up (theres a blank plate covering the holes in the firewall for it), the hydraulic lines clip onto the firewall easily cause the factory clips on the auto are the same clips from the manual.

The vacuum pump has a blocked port for the clutch booster as well. Even the body has tapped screw holes and mounts for the bleeder and t-pipe in the hydraulic lines - ive often wondered what they were for until now.

As for the gearbox cross member - same. Only the bell housing changes. And the flywheel.

Such a simple swap that we don't need an LVVTA certification for it. I think thats equivalent to you guys having to go to an engineer to approve mods.

sorry for the hijack